DIY mirror heating repair

In detail: do-it-yourself mirror heating repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Do-it-yourself mirror heating repair Excellent photo report on the repair of rear-view mirror heating. The removed mirror from the back. He warmed up the mirror surface with a hot air gun and inserted plastic cards, for further dismantling of the plastic frame

DIY mirror heating repair
An excellent photo report on the repair of a heated rearview mirror.

The removed mirror from the back.
He warmed up the mirror surface with a hot air gun and inserted plastic cards for further dismantling of the plastic mirror frame.

Periodically, warming up with a hot air gun, he carefully pushed the cards further.

Periodically warming up from the mirror side with his hands, he carefully disconnected the mirror with the thermoelement and the casing.

Thermal film glued to the mirror

He warmed up the mirror and peeled off some of the thermal film from the mirror. (I didn’t do it very neatly due to poor heating)

... And completely peeled off the film from the mirror.

I measured the resistance between the contacts and got something similar to 30 ohms.
If the resistance could not be measured, then you would have to make a hole next to the other terminal and measure there.
And so I was lucky and I immediately discovered the damaged connection
(There you can visually see which contact is not working, the conductor on the film becomes slightly darker).

I made a hole in the film to detect a broken terminal.

This is the future guide. Only a leg will be needed from him.

I made a cross cut in the film using a "paper knife", anointed the cut with soldering acid,
inserted the smallest rivet with a washer and riveted with a hammer in a vice.
The washer, in advance, must be smeared with soldering acid and a part of the outer side should be plated with solder.

Video (click to play).

I soldered the leg from the radio component to the washer and to the damaged contact.

Hurray, there is a contact with a resistance of 27 Ohm, Ohm's floor weighs my wires =)

I pasted double-sided tape on the mirror.

Glued a film to the mirror

I glued the tape on the film again, I advise you to stick a porous double-sided tape 1.5-2 mm thick, it will hold better.

He warmed up the adhesive surface a little with a hot air gun, installed the mirror frame and pressed it well.

Got me out means non-working heating.
I read all the articles on the site but the methods described there seemed not the most optimal. Therefore, it was decided to proceed as follows:
1. remove the mirror elements from the car.
2. With a heated soldering iron, cut out, melting in 2 places, a piece of plastic next to the contacts (see photo).
3.wash off the rest of the varnish with acetone
4.solder the jumper
5. Cover the repair site with nail polish.
As a result, the operation takes ONLY 5-10 minutes, because:
- it is inappropriate to peel off the entire plastic base from the mirror
- it is not necessary to wash off all the varnish
- it is inappropriate to apply varnish to the entire element, then dry it and stick the plastic base back.

Thus, 4 mirror elements have already been repaired. everything is working.

Driver's mirror:

Passenger:

If the heated mirrors on your car no longer work, then this video will show you how to repair the heated rearview mirror of a Chevrolet Aveo Sonic T300 or any other car with your own hands.
Who did not succeed:
General Motors 95132595 Glass of a mirror, right with heating
Ergon 16221109 mirror element right spherical chrome heating

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Video Repair of heating the mirror of the AndreyAZTV channel

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The bathroom belongs to the category of wet rooms. High humidity causes some discomfort, not to mention the formation of fungus. When planning repairs in the bathroom, it is necessary to provide for such points as:

1. Ventilation (natural or forced)
2. Heating the room (warm floor; heated towel rail; battery)

An indispensable attribute of a bathroom is a mirror, the surface of which is susceptible to fogging.

There are several ways to solve the fogging problem in the mirror.

1. Wipe the mirror surface with your hand
2. Before taking a bath or shower, rub various gels into the mirror surface (liquid soap; shampoo; special spray)
3. You can install the car "wiper" on the mirror
4. You can install a fan with a humidity sensor
5. It is possible to arrange mirror heating using a special heating film.

Ways to connect the heating film:

1. Combine with turning on the lighting above the mirror.
2. Install a separate switch for heated mirror.
3. It is possible to organize automatic turning on of the mirror heating when the humidity in the room exceeds the set value. For this, a signal from a fan with a humidity sensor is used (the fan electrical circuit must be revised)

My name is Alexander Smolin and for over 17 years I have been renovating premises of any complexity. My channel is dedicated to the topic of DIY apartment and house renovation. With the help of my videos, you can easily make repairs in an apartment with your own hands without any problems and without an expensive professional tool, even if you are completely new to this matter.

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Keywords: heated mirror, heated mirror, heated mirror, bath mirror, mirror fogs up, heated bathroom mirrors, glass fogs up, mirror sweats, heating element, mirror installation, mirror film, apartment renovation, do it yourself

In cold weather and in winter, the side mirrors are often covered with ice and condensation. To maintain good visibility, the driver has to constantly wipe them. Today, some car manufacturers are installing heated mirrors that include heating elements with an automatic defrost function.

This pleasure is much more expensive than installing standard components. Therefore, in order to save your own finances, you can install your own mirror heating.

Not only trained mechanics can install heaters. Auto enthusiasts are also able to cope with the task if they carefully study the information and follow the instructions.

The primary side mirrors contain a single element in a protective housing that can be adjusted to suit the driver. Some car manufacturers provide additional features to make them easier to use. One such function is to add a heat source to the side reflectors. This is ideal for those drivers who live in cold regions and for those who do not have a garage to park their car during snowy weather. The heated element raises the temperature, while melting snow, moisture, condensate.This means the driver doesn't have to waste time cleaning up parts and improving visibility.

On vehicles that have heated side mirrors as standard equipment, most have a separate heating button for the driver's side. If there is no such control panel, the driver turns the part every time he turns the mirror heater.

Heating can be of several types:

with wire-based heater;
with a heater based on printed conductors;
with a foil heater.

The simplest type of heater is made of wire that is wound on a base or pressed between two strips of insulating material. It is attached to the back of the reflector using tape, glue or mechanical clamps. However, such a heater is characterized by low efficiency due to air gaps and intermediate layers between the glass and the heater.

Such a heater is a flat layer that is screen printed with conductive pastes. The printed conductors are enclosed between two layers of heat-resistant polymer. The heater itself is fixed on the back of the mirror with glue or adhesive tape.

Another type of this kind of heater is an insulating tape on which printed conductors are formed on top. However, the presence of intermediate layers, as in the first variant, leads to a decrease in the heating rate.

Heating of mirrors based on a film resistive element is the most reliable. It is a conductive layer that is applied to the reflector glass using double-sided adhesive tape. This material allows you to evenly distribute heat over the entire area of the mirror element. A separate button or a button for heating the rear-view mirrors is used to turn on the heating.

Before installing the heated side mirrors, make sure that this function is not installed in your car. You can check this:

the presence of a heating button;
turning on the car and after a minute or two touching the mirror. If it is warm, heating is already installed;
by checking the presence of wires and heating elements in the case.

The heated side mirrors can be combined with the heated rear window. To find out what to connect to, a visual diagram of mirror heating is suitable.

On the video - checking homemade products:

There are several ways to make heated rear-view mirrors:

buy heated car mirrors and install them;
use heating elements.

Heated side mirrors are a great aftermarket addition to any vehicle. It is known that heated rear-view mirrors will prevent fogging, which will increase visibility. They can be installed quite easily even by beginners.

Open the hood of the car and find the black box. Open the box to find some relays. The box will indicate which relay is intended for what. Find the mirror relay and remove it. Replace the relay that came with the mirror element. Connect the wires as needed, close the hood.

Open both front doors and find the screws holding them in place. Unscrew them and then remove the card. Locate the rearview mirror mounts and remove the screws. Then remove the old components, disconnect the wires.

Connect the wires to the corresponding wires on the heated side reflectors. Install them and replace the inner cover.

To do the heating of the side mirrors with your own hands, you have to do a little more than in the case of installing ready-made components.

In the video, the installation process:

There are several ways to solve the fogging problem in the mirror.

Ways to connect the heating film:

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My name is Alexander Smolin and for over 17 years I have been renovating premises of any complexity. My YouTube channel: is entirely devoted to topics such as high-quality do-it-yourself apartment renovation and do-it-yourself high-quality home renovation. With the help of my videos, you can easily make repairs in an apartment with your own hands without any problems and without an expensive professional tool, even if you are completely new to this matter.

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Many car owners, if the mirror heating does not work, ignore the problem and do not take any repair steps. It is believed that this option can be dispensed with by looking in the rearview mirror or wiping the surface by hand.But this approach is a mistake, because the presence of heating helps out in the following cases:

Formation of ice crust on the surface (at sub-zero temperatures).
In rainy weather, when the mirror fogs up or becomes covered with a layer of small droplets.

The reason for inaction is the inability and ignorance of the causes of the malfunction, as well as the principles of repairing heated mirrors. What if the device doesn't work? What tool might you need? See below the video "Repair of heated rear-view mirror"

The first stage of repair work is the preparation of the necessary tools. Here you will need a multimeter or 12 volt car light to check the voltage. You will also need a screwdriver, soldering iron, replacement fuses and electrical tape.

If the mirror heater does not work, start by checking the supply circuit. Often, the cause of the malfunction is trivial - the fuse insert burns out. It is with her that you need to start. The fuse through which the rear window and mirrors are heated, as a rule, is located in a special block (under the torpedo on the right side). To find out the exact location of the device, read the manual for the car.

If you still can't find the correct fuse, check everything. Checking the serviceability of the fusible insert is carried out using a tester. To do this, touch the input and output of the fuse with the multimeter probes. Pre-set the switch to resistance measurement mode. If during the check the device shows about "zero" Ohm, then the product is in good working order. Otherwise, we can talk about a blown fuse.

If you don't have a multimeter, use an alternative method. If the case is transparent, check the integrity of the filament by light (its damage is easy to see). For fuses with an opaque cover, this option will not work.

In the case when the considered check did not help to identify the defect, inspect the power button. It happens that it is she who breaks down and becomes the cause of the breakdown. If the mirror heating does not work, pay attention to the LED built into the button. Its glow, as a rule, indicates the functionality of the button.

The next step is to check the integrity of the wiring, for which you will have to remove the desired side mirror. After dismantling, a group of contacts connected to the heating comes off. Proceed like this:

Discard the contacts (as a rule, they can be easily removed - just pull them slightly).
Turn on the heating button and check that the LED in it is working.
Measure the voltage (normal level is 12-14 V).

If no multimeter is available, use a light bulb. Connect it to the heating terminals at the mirror and make sure that it lights up after turning on the heating. If this does not happen, the problem is in the button or wiring.

To troubleshoot, remove the button and make sure there is voltage or current at the terminals (use a multimeter or light bulb). If no problem is found, but the mirror heater still does not work, test the rest of the circuit for an open, short, or damaged insulation. If you find a problem, solder or replace the wires (if repair is impossible).

In the risk zone are the contacts of the heating terminal blocks, the malfunction of which is difficult to notice. A common cause is breaking wires and losing contact, which is not visible behind the insulation. To find the defect, bend the contacts one by one or improve the contact with the terminal block. If this is the cause of the malfunction, solder the terminals and isolate the section.

If the mirror heating does not work, but the fuse, button and wiring are OK, check the heating (filaments) itself. Take a multimeter, put the switch in the resistance position, and then measure this parameter at the outputs of the heating device. Normal resistance is 10-30 ohms. If the multimeter showed 100 ohms or more, or there are no readings at all, then we can talk about a heating failure.

The serviceability of the heating circuit can be checked using a light bulb (relevant in the absence of a tester). To do this, open the heating circuit and connect the lamp in a serial connection diagram. Ideally, the light bulb should glow at least a little. If this does not happen, the reason for which the mirror heating does not work — burnout of the device.

Another probable problem is the falling off of the contact connections from the copper pads, which are provided for fixing the supply wires, on the factory heating film (made of plastic). Typically, these pads are located at the edge of the filament.

To check if the heating is working, touch the multimeter leads to the copper plates. Normal resistance level is 100 ohms. If the cause of the malfunction is in the fastening of the contacts, the latter should be soldered to the copper plates. Remember that film and copper traces react negatively to elevated temperatures and can deform.

In the case when infinity is reflected on the screen of the multimeter (there are no numbers at all), move along the track until there is any correct parameter on the device. So, step by step, you can find a break due to which the mirror heating does not work. It remains to connect or solder the damaged area.

During the renovation process, remember that copper has a golden (reddish) tint. Copper tracks are covered with insulating varnish or paint, therefore the color of the product may vary. In this case, the top film is removed using sandpaper, a knife or solvent.

The worst option is when the mirror heating does not work due to a malfunction of the device. It will not be possible to remove and repair it, due to its secure fixation to the glass from the back side. A soldering iron, in this case, is also useless, because the thread is thin, and it is not possible to solder it onto a plastic film. In such a situation, the only solution is to buy a heated mirror assembly. The device looks like an adhesive tape with copper tracks applied on it, which heat the mirror. The last step is to install a new film.

Video: Repair of heated rear-view mirrors

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Heated side mirrors - the option is very useful and if it is not in your car, then you can easily retrofit the standard mirrors with a replaceable element with heating. But what if you are not satisfied with the standard mirrors, but the purchased alternative mirrors do not have such an option? In this case, you can modify tuning mirrors with your own handsby integrating a flexible heating element (LEG) into them.

This method has several advantages:

- heating elements can be bought in different sizes and installed on almost any mirror;
- the heating element is a cheaper option and if there is no need to change the mirror element - this method can also be used to modify the standard mirror.

In this example, consider how install heating in non-standard mirrors VAZ 2110, and for this we need:

- two heating elements;
- wires, electrical tape or heat shrinkage, solder with rosin (in the car itself, you can squeeze the wires, as you like);
- the blade of a clerical knife;
- building hair dryer (optional);
- drill with drill (optional);
- file;
- double sided tape;
- a tool for dismantling / installing and disassembling / assembling rear-view mirrors.

This is a minimum and indicative list of tools and spare parts needed to modify the rear-view mirrors - the heating function. Other tools and parts may be required depending on the design of your mirror.

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First of all, you need to measure the size of your mirror element and, based on its parameters, choose a LEG of a suitable size. Please note that the heating element can be cut slightly, but the heating coils must not be cut. In the sample shown in the photo, the extreme border along which the heating element can be shortened is marked with a dotted line. If you cut off at least one of the turns of the spiral, this will lead to increased heating of the element, which can cause undesirable consequences (the mirror body will melt, the mirror element will crack and other problems up to a short circuit with possible ignition of the car wiring). Remember - the installation of heating elements requires a competent and qualified approach.

If you have purchased heating elements and you have all the necessary spare parts and tools in stock, you can proceed with the installation.

The first step is to remove the mirrors. The procedure for dismantling mirrors will depend on the design of the mirror installed on your car (instructions for the VAZ of the tenth family). After dismantling, it will be necessary to separate the mirror element from the mirror body. To do this, you need to determine with the help of which they are held.

If you have installed mirrors from foreign cars or other mirrors of a similar design - the mirror element of which is glued to a special glue, then to remove such mirror elements, it is necessary to heat this glue using a construction hair dryer. If a hair dryer is not available, you can heat the mirror by dipping it into hot water. But you need to be extremely careful - rapid heating can lead to cracking of the mirror element. This operation must be performed slowly and carefully. Such mirrors can be distinguished by a more densely glued mirror element, most often the mirror element has a plastic frame in a circle.

If you have installed non-original mirrors adapted for the VAZ 2110 of an unknown manufacturer, then the mirror element is most likely glued to double-sided tape. This is the easiest way and manufacturers of inexpensive mirrors, few batches - I usually resort to it in order to save money on production. Mirror elements glued to tape usually have little mobility due to the porosity of the tape.

Mirror elements, glued to the tape, are detached using the blade of a utility knife. It is best to wind electrical tape around the edge of the blade (usually the blade is inserted into the knife, due to the handle, it does not allow them to cut off the mirror element) and slowly slipping it under the mirror element to cut off the tape.
After you separate the mirror element, you need to clean the surface of the mirror element and the surface to which it was glued from the remains of adhesive tape (or glue) and degrease.

Then we apply the purchased heating element and cut it along the contour of the mirror element. If the heating element is slightly larger than the mirror element, and the boundaries of the heating coils do not make it possible to trim them further (see above), then you can bend a part of the heating element inside the mirror body - as in the photo (but not under any circumstances).

Next, mark on the site for a mirror element - a place for holes for wires and use a drill to drill two holes. If there is no drill, you can poke through these holes with the edge of a sharp knife, but here, naturally, you need to be extremely careful so as not to break the plastic of the base of the mirror element. In our sample (pictured), the wires were riveted to the heating element.To prevent them from sticking out under the rivet and the crimped part of the wire, we slightly bore the hole with a file in the right direction. Again, if there is no file, this can be done with a knife, but is less convenient.

Heating wire routing may require disassembly of individual mirror components. Usually the wires on the heating element are short, so we lengthen them in advance and drag them through the mirror body. In this place, it is best to connect the wires by soldering, since water will enter the mirror body, and the chip itself may oxidize, twisting is simply not allowed here. In our case, we passed the wires along with the cables for the mirror adjustment drive.

Now, using double-sided tape, we fix the heating element to the installation site of the mirror element, in the mirror housing. Then, using the same adhesive tape, we fix the mirror element itself on top of the heating element. Many, in order to reduce the thickness of this "sandwich", put the mirror element on glue, but this is not worth doing. Since with such a thickness up to the heating coils, the mirror element can heat up excessively and crack at a temperature difference. The glue can also damage the mirror element by dissolving the applied protection of the mirror coating.

After gluing the mirror element, we assemble the remaining elements of the mirror body (if they were dismantled) and install the mirrors in their original place. We pass the mirror heating wires through the door, after naturally dismantling the door trim, if necessary, we fasten the wire so that it does not touch the mechanisms installed in the door. We run the wires into the car through the standard rubber band of the wires of the central locks.

There can be two connection schemes:

Connect heated mirrors to heated rear window. This is a completely normal solution, since this is how mirror heating is implemented on most cars;
Connect the heated mirrors to a separate button (diagram on the right).

On most heating elements (such as in the photo), it makes no difference which wire to connect to "+" and which wire to "-". If there is such a difference (for example, if the design includes some kind of intensity adjustment, which of course is unlikely), this will be indicated in the instructions that go to the element.

When connecting heating elements, regardless of the wiring diagram, "+" should go only from the wire on which "+ 12 Volts" appears when the ignition is turned on.

So, the heating of non-standard rear-view mirrors is installed, and it is relevant to use it in two cases:

when driving in bad weather conditions (snow, rain, fog, frost, etc.) to prevent the adhesion of snow or cover with a water film;
when the car is warming up, to automatically remove the formed frost, rain drops or ice.

Recall that buy flexible heating elements You can in online stores, and an alternative connection diagram for heating standard VAZ mirrors of the tenth family, as well as their installation, is shown in another article.
By the way, do you know how to make such airbrushing on the hood?

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Ahead is the cold season, which creates additional difficulties for motorists, including fogging and freezing of the side mirrors. Driving with such mirrors is not only inconvenient, but also dangerous.And every time opening a window for cleaning and wiping is not much fun, especially if it's cold and rainy outside.

Many foreign cars are equipped with a mirror heating system. It is really very convenient because it allows you to keep your mirrors clean in any weather. But only on budget models, as well as on domestic cars, such equipment is very rare.

There is still a way out of the situation, and more than one:

Purchase of mirrors with an integrated heating system;
Purchase and installation of factory heating devices (film, printed heaters);
Folk remedies;

As for mirrors, this is the most expensive solution to the problem, moreover, it is not always possible to find elements that are suitable for mounting. Factory products are cheaper, but this requires selection according to the form.

Among the simple folk remedies, you can use a regular car incandescent lamp, which is housed in the mirror housing. Such a solution to the problem is inconvenient in that there must be enough space inside the case to install the lamp and the base under it.

The simplest and cheapest, but at the same time effective means of providing heated mirrors is to use nichrome wire.

To make a heater you just need:

Nichrome wire;
Double-sided and regular tape;
Wires;
Sealant;
Soldering iron;
Multimeter;

With all this, you can start equipping the heated mirrors. But first, let's deal with the nichrome wire.

A wire with a cross section of 0.4-05 mm and a length of 1-1.3 m is suitable for the heater. For the heating system to function properly, the resistance of a piece of wire should be 12 ohms. This is what a multimeter is for. That is, they took a segment of 1.5 meters, measured the resistance. If it exceeds the specified value, cut off 10 cm, and measure again. Thus, we select the desired segment.

Now you can start installing the heater. First, we remove the holder with the mirror from the case. On most cars, it is enough to pry it with a screwdriver or something flat from below and pull it towards you.

Based on the characteristics of the holder, we choose the method of fastening the wire. If the inner surface of the holder is even (as in the photo), then glue double-sided tape on it.

Then we lay a piece of wire on this surface. This can be done arbitrarily, for example, in a zigzag or something else. The main thing is to place it so that the thread covers the largest possible surface of the holder. In this case, the wire should not intersect anywhere. The scotch tape will hold the nichrome thread well.

If the inner surface of the holder has some kind of protrusions or fastening elements, then sticking the tape will not work. In this case, a soldering iron will help to fix the wire. Everything is simple here - we apply a nichrome thread to the surface and press on it with a heated soldering iron. The plastic will begin to melt and the wire will sink into it. After cooling, the plastic will become hard and it will hold the thread. But here it is important not to overdo it with heating the plastic, so as not to "push" it to the mirror. It is enough just to "drown" the wire in it a little and that's it.

In this way, we fix the wire along the accessible surface of the holder, without touching the fasteners.

When laying the wire, the ends of the wire must be placed to the side of the holder that is closer to the door, and so that they do not touch each other. We solder terminals to these ends for connecting to the wiring or just the ends of the prepared wires. Then the resulting connections must be insulated.

It remains to provide insulation. If the wire was attached to tape, then in order to insulate it, you can simply stick it on top of several more layers of ordinary adhesive tape. This will provide thermal insulation, prevent the wire from peeling off and short-circuiting it.

As for the holder, where the wire is fixed with a soldering iron, you can simply fill the entire surface where the thread passes with a sealant and wait until it dries. In this case, the fasteners will not be affected, which will ensure ease of fastening, and the wire itself will be insulated.

Before installing the holder in place, we pull the wiring through the mirror housing into the door, the wiring for powering the heaters. Only after that we collect the mirror.

It remains only to connect the manufactured device. The best option for this is to insert into the rear window heating wiring or connect to the heating button for this heating. It is important to take into account that the load on this section of the wiring will increase after the heaters are turned on, so you should replace the fuse responsible for powering the heated rear window.

But you can just make a separate power key and place it in a convenient place. But with such a connection, there is one drawback - you can forget to turn off the heating of the mirrors after parking the car.

Video (click to play).