It turns on only when the ignition is on, an additional relay is responsible for this. It supplies power to the system button. When the button is on, the lamp lights up in parallel and the switching relay, powered by the fuse, is activated. Then the voltage is supplied to the heating threads.
Repair of glass heating contacts consists in restoring their performance. To repair any faulty rear window heating terminal, we need:
This is how the contacts for heating the rear window of the car are repaired. If the open circuit is on the threads, then we find a specific place according to the algorithm already described above with the help of a tester. Further, in the absence of purchased glue, you can fix the thread break like this.
Here is such an interesting technology. There is another option for restoring the lost section of the heating track in the absence of special glue. Let's consider it on the example of a specific car.
To repair the heated glass in the rear of Renault Logan, we need to use the following accessories:
This method is called electrolytic. You need to make the following manipulations.
This method works well for all small scratches. In addition, it is not as difficult to perform as it might seem at first glance.
However, if you still do not want to do anything yourself, it is enough to contact a car service, where the entire electrical circuit will “ring” completely, quickly find the place of the defect and professionally fix it.
And what is the price for glass heating repair is spelled out in the following table. Here it is - with average data for large Russian cities.
Many drivers are interested in what to do if the heating located on the rear window does not work? This is not just a whim, but a vital necessity, allowing you to always see what is happening from behind.
If, when looking in the rear-view mirror, the driver sees nothing but fog, then the risk of an accident increases many times over. That is why, as soon as you notice that the heating of the rear window electric filaments does not work, you must immediately start fixing it.
This is not a particularly difficult procedure, but in order for everything to go as it should, it is necessary to approach it as responsibly as possible. It is very important to follow the instructions exactly.
Before proceeding to the repair of the heating of the rear window elements, which you will do with your own hands, you need to understand the design of this device. In reality, it does not represent anything complicated.
There are two conductive tires on the sides of the rear window of the vehicle. Heating lines are located between them. Usually a high-resistance material is used to create them. The fact is that for effective operation, each thread must have a resistance in the region of 10 ohms. This is the only way to protect the glass from fogging.
The number of threads in the rear window heating is different for each car.In most cases, it depends on the length of the surface. During repairs, this exclusively affects the difficulty of detecting a break.
To repair the heating of the rear window threads, you will need to study the connection diagram of this device to the automotive electrical network. The main role here is played by the ignition lock. It is through it that the voltage is supplied to the heating system.
As soon as you turn on the heater, the current flows to the relay. After that, the contacts are closed, and the leads are connected. As a result, electricity is supplied to the heater without obstacles.
As soon as the current enters the electrical circuit of the glass heater, it begins to feed the filaments, which are connected in parallel to the general system. But that's not all. The fact is that the negative contact of the battery is also connected to the mass of the car. Thanks to this, a constant exchange of current is carried out.
As you already understood from the above material, the heating of each thread of the rear seat works thanks to the ignition key. As soon as it is in the ON position, the entire system is activated.
Many drivers are outraged by such a decision of the designers, but in reality it has its own logic. The fact is that the rear window heater consumes a lot of electricity. Usually this figure ranges from 10 to 25 A.
So that you better understand how much 25 A is - let's make a visual comparison. In order for one car headlight to shine at least 5 A. In fact, one heater is equal to 5 headlights.
To fix something, you first need to diagnose the breakdown. For a number of signs, you can first find out what exactly is the reason for the failure of heating the threads. So an inoperative rear window defogger indicator, when the button is pressed, indicates a faulty fuse.
An illuminated indicator and non-heating heating filaments located on the rear window indicate a malfunction in the relay. In turn, poor contact in the electrical circuit leads to too slow fogging of the glass.
It is with this that you need to start the procedure for restoring the normal operation of heating all the threads of the rear window. First, look at all the lines visually. If nothing is visible, you can use the search techniques that have been developed by other drivers who are facing the same problem:
As soon as the breakage point in the heating threads of the glass behind is found, you can proceed to a full-fledged repair.
There are many techniques for repairing threads that are responsible for heating the glass of a car in the back. For example, you can take a regular repair kit for the corresponding part.The advantage of this option is that you do not have to look for additional parts and tools. Everything will be in one package.
Some of the best kits for re-heating damaged rear window heat lines are made by Permatex and Quick Grid. They all have similar components.
The repair kit allows you to restore about 10 centimeters of the damaged thread. Usually there are ready-made lines in the set. All you need to do is install them correctly.
The algorithm itself for repairing the heat lines of the rear window using a repair kit is very simple. You need to replace the damaged thread and apply the compound where the damage was.
At the end of the work, remove the template. The heating must not be turned on for at least a day after you have done everything. Otherwise, all the work will be useless and you will have to redo it again.
The second method of repairing the heating of the rear window heat lines with your own hands is to use a conductive paste. Just apply it to the area where the threads were broken. Wait 24 hours. After that, all functions of the heating lines will be restored.
Of course, the use of a repair kit and thermal paste has its advantages. They are easy to operate, and the result of repairs with these heating filaments made from a special material for the rear window is always high. However, you still need to buy them. And this takes time and money. In some cases, both with the first and with the second, some difficulties are possible.
It is not surprising that domestic and foreign motorists have come up with a whole set of various methods that can help in the shortest possible time with the help of the means at hand to restore the broken lines.
In order to bring to life the first popular method of repairing the heating of the rear window threads, you will need paint and shavings. To get the shavings, you need a copper-brass block and a file. The color of the paint doesn't really matter. However, it is preferable to match the threads.
The shavings and paint are mixed one to one. As a result, you should get some kind of dough from these two elements. In order to make a stencil, ordinary scotch tape will work.
After the stencil is applied to the surface, turn on the heating filaments with a resistance of 10 ohms for the rear window. Only then apply the repairing mixture. As soon as the dough hits the damaged area, a specific hissing sound will be heard.
The main plus of the paint and shavings technique when repairing a heated rear window is that you don't have to wait. As soon as you hear an easily recognizable hiss, you can immediately enter the track without fear of fogging up the rear window.
The second popular method of repairing a heating installed on the rear window has some differences from the first. The mixture also uses shavings, but the paint is replaced with glue. BF-2 is ideal. Its restorative qualities will be more than enough to restore damaged threads.
The third popular method of repairing the heating filaments attached to the rear window is conventional soldering. To do this, you need a flux and zinc chloride. Of course, you can't do without solder either. The vein that you will use during your work must be silver plated. Alternatively, copper can be used.
As you can see, traditional methods allow you to restore even the most serious breaks in the heating lines on the rear window of a car with minimal costs. Unfortunately, unlike ready-made pasta, you have to make the composition yourself. And this takes time and effort.
The heating of the high-resistance threads of the rear window can be repaired by hand. You don't even need to buy a repair kit or paste for this. Enough tools at hand in the form of a bar and paint.
VIDEO Mon 20 Aug 2012
It began to get colder on the street and in the morning more and more often the first thing to do is to press the rear window heating button. But the HORROR, you turn on the heating and find that not all the threads are heating. What to do? Replacing glass is not a cheap pleasure, it remains to repair on your own. Generally Recommended Repair Methods
heating threads of the rear window, according to those who have tried, leave much to be desired - the ineffectiveness of inexpensive conductive adhesives, and the high price of proprietary mixtures.
And in the vastness of the network I met an interesting repair technology, the reviews of those who tried it were more than enthusiastic:
Description of technology.
Of the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and construction), and sulfuric acid - an electrolyte from a battery is quite suitable. From the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass.
Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long. At the end of the bar, wind a strip of fabric halfway up its width - you should get something like a brush. Above, you need to put a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.
Electrolyte preparation - not to be confused with akka electrolyte - it is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate are poured into half a glass of water, and stirred until dissolved. Not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention. In the resulting solution, you need to add 0.2-0.3% percent of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.
Well, the process itself. Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "mass" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it, nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag.
We moisten the positive electrode in the solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes. A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, with large gaps, the copper-plated areas should be irradiated with an unheated soldering iron and a jumper made of a thin wire should be soldered.
There is no need to limit the current as after a few seconds, the anode is passivated and limits the flow
A couple more ways ... ... - turn on the heating on the fogged glass and in the place of the break the glass quickly sweats with a stain, and the whole thread with the break does not sweat.
- to detect a break in the rear window defroster wire, turn on the ignition and turn on the rear window defroster.
- to locate a break in the heater conductor, connect one probe of the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the heater, and move the second probe along the conductor of the heater from the side of the negative terminal of the heater. The point at which the voltage indicated by the voltmeter will drop from a few volts to zero is where the heater conductor breaks.
- ohmmeter, in kilo mode, or better than mego. One probe clings to one terminal of the heater, the second one to the other terminal of the heater.Take a piece of cotton wool soaked in distilled water and lead it along the strings of the heater, follow the kilo readings, the megohmmeter at the break point, the arrow jerks.
Directly repair threads:
In all the methods listed below, you must first clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - with a bent steel wire, a paper clip) until a metallic sheen appears and degrease.
- the broken conductor of the rear window defroster can be restored using conductive paste.
It can be dried at a high temperature, then the heating can be used earlier.
- from the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and
- from the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass. Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or a wire with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long.
- at the end of the thread, wind a strip of fabric on half of its width - you should get something like a brush.
Above need to put on a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.
- preparation of the electrolyte - not to be confused with the electrolyte of the accumulator - is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulphate is poured into half a glass of water, and stirred until dissolved, not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention.
In the obtained p-p it is necessary to add 0.2-0.3% of the percentage of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% of the electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.
Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "ground" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it - nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag. We moisten the positive electrode in solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes.
A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, for large gaps, the copper-bonded areas should be irradiated with an undisturbed soldering iron and soldered from a thin wire.
There is no need to limit the current, because after a few seconds the anode is passivated and limits the flowing current. Do not forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid!
3rd method (paint with shavings):
4th method (magnet and glue):
5th method (special adhesives):
6th method (soldering):
7th method (sawdust and glue):
To implement this idea, I used the second method - electrolytic coating.
it was visible to the naked eye, but just in case, I called this place with a tester ... Then I made a device with which copper ions will be applied:
it is done very simply ... he took 3 copper conductors from a copper wire of 2.5 mm cross-section, soldered them together, put a heat-shrink tube on them, cleaned the copper, wound a rag about 3 cm wide, fastened it all with ties ....
on the other hand, I soldered a plug-in contact so that you can connect this device instead of heating. Then copper sulphate began to play, fortunately, there were old stocks and I took a little acid from the battery with a syringe .... (You can buy copper sulphate in a store where fertilizers are sold)
Then everything was according to the instructions .... put the electrode into the glass, disconnected the positive wire from the glass heating, connected a homemade electrode to it, turned on the ignition and the heating button - thus the "+" appeared on the electrode ...
There is a "-" sign on the heating strips. I just walked around the place where there was a gap and saw how a coating of copper was formed ... I note that this method is most effective for small scratches ... For reliability, I also soldered this place, since after such a copper plating procedure everything is soldered with a bang!
Heating filaments on the rear window of a car may fail after a long service life of the car or due to mechanical damage. As a result, car drivers are faced with a lack of heating of a part of the glass. This causes condensation to form on it with significant temperature changes inside the passenger compartment and outside during the cold season.
Misted glass significantly reduces the visibility of the road surface, which is fraught with an increase in the risk of accidents. This problem, fortunately, can be eliminated by hand using a special glue or paste.
Part of the car's glass stops heating due to a broken thread, which, for example, you can touch with an abrasive, removing the glue from the tint film. Since the heating elements are thin and under certain lighting conditions they are practically invisible. There are several ways to detect a break:
Before you start repairing the heated rear window with your own hands, make sure that the conduction strip is clear of varnish. This must be done very carefully using a paper clip. Degrease the work surface after cleaning.
There are several ways to fix a car window heater:
Conductive paste. To use it, turn off the window heater and allow the glass to cool down. After cleaning the filament, mark the working area, and then apply the paste in a layer of about 2 cm to each of the damaged ends of the heater element.The paste dries within 24 hours, during which it is impossible to use window heating. However, to speed up the process, drying with a building hair dryer is possible.
VIDEO
Adhesive for conducting current is produced by such manufacturers whose products you can find on the market:
Keller ... Produces Kontaktol, a kit that contains the smallest particles of silver. Presented as a one-component mixture, low-toxic, hypoallergenic, water-resistant, heat-resistant;Loctite ... Sold in a set with a stencil, applied using the brush included in the set;Russia ... Produces "Kontaktol" agent, which is applied to the surface with a layer of 0.2 mm. Withstands temperatures up to +110 degrees. It has low elasticity and is water resistant.
who actually did it? bought Don Deal heating filament repair agent. I spoiled my own when I wiped off the glue of the transits with a knife with a scraper 🙂 in the middle of the glass does not heat.
how difficult is it? are there any features?
I had a problem with the rear window defroster when I cleaned the adhesive tape with which the Transit was glued damaged the heating threads.
For repair we need:
1. scotch tape, better narrow;
TROUBLESHOOTING
To begin with, we simply visually inspect the threads for breaks, cuts, etc. they are clearly visible on them.
That's the whole repair. As a result, we have a working rear window heater, the places of repair are noticeable, but I personally do not care, my tinting is dear and I don't really look there.
- voltmeter;
- low-tin solder and zinc chloride;
- graphite powder, iron filings, nitro varnish, epoxy;
- silver sawdust and nitro-glue;
- copper sulfate solution, cloth, long copper wire;
- electrically conductive adhesive
1.The required amount of glue is squeezed out into the slot of the stencil and mixed there;
2. a minute after applying the first, the second layer is applied, but it is no longer mixed, but simply applied on top.
All cars are equipped with a heating system (CO) for the rear window. Thanks to its correct operation, it is easier for the driver to carry out maneuvers, since he will know the situation behind the car. What malfunctions can occur in operation and how to repair the rear window heating with your own hands? Look for answers to these and other questions below.
So, what is the device for heating the windshield (windscreen) or rear window and what is the purpose of this system? The device is used to thaw ice at subzero temperatures, as well as to remove fogging in wet and dry weather in a car. Special threads are applied to the rear window, which allow you to remove the remaining ice during the warming up of the car in winter. By the way, it is the heater that is considered one of the most effective ways to combat fogging.
A certain number of special conductive filaments on a special film are installed on the rear window. This film is fixed with glue, and the threads themselves are powered by electricity. Electricity passes through the threads, allowing it to generate heat and, accordingly, heat the glass itself.
The principle of operation of a car glass heater consists in pressing a button located in the vehicle interior by the driver and further heating the glass. The power itself to the system comes from the positive terminal of the car battery - in this case, the voltage comes through the safety elements and the ignition switch. Ultimately, energy is supplied to the device controller as well as the relay contact. The negative terminal of the system is connected to the mass of the car, that is, its body.
When the system is turned on, voltage is applied to the relay coil. When this element is triggered, the contacts are closed, while at the same time two leads are connected, which are marked on the diagram with numbers 30 and 87. Then the energy is transferred to the heating system and fed to the threads, which are fixed on the heated glass with glue. Further, the current flows again through the grounding of the machine and goes to the negative terminal of the battery (video by Sergey Kotov).
As practice shows, often if the heating system does not work, then car owners will find out about it as a result of fogging up or the appearance of plaque. A person turns on the heating, while there will either be no result at all, or the surface will warm up, but minimally and unevenly. The power supply circuit of the system can be different - in some cars it is activated without turning on the ignition, in others the key in the lock must be turned.
Before checking and repairing the system, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the list of faults:
The device does not activate. As a rule, there is an indicator on the activation button - if the light does not light up when it is turned on, then the problem must be looked for either in the button itself or in the safety device. In the event that the indicator is on, but the device does not function, then you can also check the relay.
In the event that the CO works, but the glass itself heats up too slowly, which is especially important for the frost period, then perhaps the reason should be sought in the connectors. If the contact is bad, then its resistance may be higher, while the voltage value, respectively, will become lower. As practice shows, often the cause of the malfunction lies in the poor contact of CO with the vehicle's on-board network, so the contacts should also be checked.
Another problem is that horizontal traces remain on the surface of auto glass after CO activation after some time. In this case, the reason, most likely, lies in damage to the threads in certain places. A malfunction of this kind can be determined without testers - just by eye. It should be borne in mind that the threads can break even with minor influences, quite often this happens as a result of using a scraper for scrubbing.
Now more about how to diagnose and restore the damaged area. Let's start by checking.
You can use one of several methods to troubleshoot a problem:
If you are faced with the problem of CO inoperability, then you do not have to trust specialists to repair it - you can do everything yourself. There are several methods for CO recovery.
So, how to fix the system:
How to properly repair the CO incandescent tracks - visual repair instructions are given in the video below (the author of the video is the BortJournal channel Renault Megan).
If the heating of the rear window of a car does not work in winter, visibility is significantly reduced, undermining the safety of the driver and passengers. That is why, if a malfunction is detected, you should immediately start repairing.
All schemes for heating the rear window of a car are similar and practically do not differ significantly from each other. AvtoVAZ models, as well as imported cars, are equipped with the same type of design and principle of operation. On the surface of the rear window, thin tracks are applied - conductive threads. The electricity passing through them causes them to heat up. On the outside of the glass, snow and ice quickly melt, and the inside of the surface gets rid of fogging.
Before troubleshooting the device and trying to fix them, you should familiarize yourself with the heating circuit and understand the components necessary for its stable operation.
1 - conductive threads;
2 - indication on the instrument panel;
3 - on / off button;
4 - ignition lock;
5 - relay;
6 - mounting block.
In the video, you will learn how to repair the heated rear window yourself. Video provided by EXPERIMENT _ TV.
If the heated rear window does not work, then one of the above components is out of order or its electrical circuit is open. You can check all the units of the heating device yourself if you have at least the slightest idea about the repair of machines. Below we will consider in detail the reasons for the malfunction of each node.
Initially, if heating problems arise, make sure the safety element is intact. Its burnout will affect the performance of the device. Each car manufacturer places this fuse in different places in their models. To quickly find its location, it is recommended to use the vehicle operating instructions or service book.
It is necessary to remove the found element and check for suitability. The blown fuse should be replaced with a new one, otherwise further attempts to troubleshoot the heating of the glass will be pointless.
One of the reasons for the failure of the glass heating may be a failure of the relay, this element is located in the mounting block. The relay turns off the heating when the motor stops running. This device cannot be restored, therefore it is replaced with a new one.
If the fuse and relay are in good condition, it is required to diagnose the electrical wires. They probably broke, burned out or broke off at the attachment point. In this case, the heating strips will not be energized.
They test the condition of the power supply wires as follows:
You need to turn on the heating button.
Using a multimeter, check the voltage at the first and second terminals for connecting wires to the heating "tires". They are located at the bottom or on both sides of the glass. Lack of voltage causes the heater to malfunction.
The first thing that needs to be done in this case is to clean the terminal contacts and all connection sections, they can oxidize and do not pass current. If the tester still reads "0", then there is an open circuit somewhere in the wiring. A visual inspection of the entire path of the electrical circuits is carried out. Having found suspicious or damaged areas, you need to connect them, as in these places, there may have been a break.
Heating strips are also susceptible to damage. Before looking for a problem area, you should familiarize yourself directly with the workflow in threads.
The voltage is supplied to the entire heating unit and is evenly distributed over each parallel-connected tape. As a result, these tapes act as conductors of electric current. Due to the resistance, they are heated to a low temperature, which is quite enough to remove ice and snow from the glass surface. If the integrity of one of the threads is violated, the electric current will stop circulating through it, and heating of this area of the glass will not be performed.
When the button is pressed, an indicator should light up, notifying of the start of work. If the switch is activated, the indicator is on, and heating still does not occur, then the button contacts have become unusable. As a result, no power is supplied to the heater. A worn out toggle switch cannot be repaired - a new one must be installed.
The most common cause of non-working heating is damage to thin conductive filaments. Modern technologies make it possible to restore sections of breakage of these threads with your own hands without the involvement of specialists.
First you need to find the damaged areas of the threads. The process will not take long, since the cliffs are perfectly visible to the naked eye. It is extremely rare to find minor damage that is difficult to see, in which case you need to use a voltmeter.
The thread has a resistance of 10 ohms, each section has its own voltage. On the first - the voltage is twelve volts, on the third - already six, and on the fifth - zero. To find a break, measure the voltage at the center of each element. If there is damage, the multimeter will give 12 or 0 volts, from here it is clear that there is a break on the left or right side of the filament.
sulphuric acid;
copper rod, up to 10 mm in diameter;
copper sulfate;
a strip of fabric 50x30 cm;
Scotch;
scissors;
glass cleaner.
Damage to the conductive thread should be repaired as follows:
At the first stage, it is important to prepare the damaged surface for restoration work. To do this, we use a rag soaked in alcohol and wipe the glass with it. When the dirt is completely removed, degrease the surface.
We glue adhesive tape on both sides of the conductive thread at the break point. We attach the adhesive tape so that the width between the strips corresponds to the heating thread.
The copper rod is wrapped with cloth at one end. We fix the so-called brush with threads.
A copper solution is being prepared. Half a glass of water is thoroughly mixed with two teaspoons of copper sulfate. A little highly concentrated sulfuric acid or electrolyte from car batteries is added to the resulting liquid.
The terminals from the heating device are connected to ground. The wire from the "positive" terminal of the battery is connected to a previously made brush from a metal rod.
The resulting electrode, soaked in the solution, is carefully rubbed over the sections of the broken threads. The ends of major breaks are pre-processed with an electric soldering iron. It also installs a connecting jumper made of the thinnest wire. As a result, slightly damaged areas are covered with copper.
Conductive glue is a specialized paste that contains fine powder of palladium, as well as nickel, gold or silver. Thanks to the listed elements, this substance perfectly conducts current and has good connecting properties. The process of restoring the heating filaments of the stern glass with conductive glue is faster and more efficient.
To start restoring the threads, we perform the same procedures for cleaning the glass surface and pasting the damaged area with tape. For the preparation of conductive glue in the repair kits, two substances are provided, which must be thoroughly mixed in a separate container. How to prepare the composition and further use it for its intended purpose is written in the instructions on the package.
The glue is applied with a brush or cotton swab, the layer size should not exceed 2 mm. The average solidification time of the conductive compound is 30 minutes. After 24 hours, we remove the excess substance, this is done with a knife or any sharp object.
When removing excess conductive adhesive, proceed with extreme caution, otherwise the surface of the heating device will be damaged again.
Video (click to play).
Detailed explanation of the repair of heating filaments. The video was taken from the channel "BortZhurnal Renault Megan".
