Do-it-yourself repair of the eye vaz 1113

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 1113 eye from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Extra small 3-door 4-seater hatchback with transverse engine and front-wheel drive. The production of the Oka was started in 1989 at the Volzhsky Automobile Plant. The engine is a two-cylinder with a working volume of 650 cc, in 1997 it was increased to 750 cc. volume. At present, the production of Oka cars has been transferred to the Kama Automobile Plant, as well as the Serpukhov Automobile Plant. In addition to the basic models KamAZ-11113 and SeAZ-11113, manual options are offered for disabled people. Due to its very low price, it is of interest for export.

This small car was developed at the Volga Automobile Plant for "corporate" production at three factories - VAZ, KamAZ and SeAZ (in a disabled version). It has been produced at the Volga Automobile since 1990.

Distinctive features - modest overall dimensions, front-wheel drive, a two-cylinder engine with a working volume of 650 cubic centimeters (“half” of an “eight” engine), a universal three-door body with a folding rear seat.

Later, modification 11113 appeared with a more powerful 0.75-liter engine. In addition, an electric vehicle has been developed on the basis of Oka, which is assembled piece by piece in the Pilot Industrial Production.

Several years ago, the production of Oka was discontinued at the Volga automobile plant, now it is produced only by KamAZ and SeAZ, although power units (only 0.75 liters) are still produced only by VAZ.

A clogged car carburetor is a headache for any car owner. The driver of the OKA car is no exception in this sense. If the carburetor is not repaired in time, you can forget about a comfortable ride. Can this device be repaired by myself? Of course.

Video (click to play).

There are several modifications of OKA cars. The very first car of this brand was model 1111. It was produced at the VAZ and KamAZ factories. This model had an engine capacity of 0.65 liters and was equipped with a DMZ brand carburetor, which was produced at the auto unit plant in Dimitrovgrad.

The main elements of the DAAZ 1111 carburetor for the OKA car

Then a new model of the OKA car - 11113 appeared. The engine volume of this car was slightly larger and amounted to 0.75 liters. Accordingly, the carburetor has also changed slightly. The 11113 model is equipped with DAAZ 1111 carburetors. This device is produced at the same plant in Dimitrovgrad. This carburetor differs from its predecessor only in the increased size of the mixing chamber. In all other respects, the device has not undergone any changes.

the carburetor “shoots”. This is the most common malfunction associated with the carburetors of OKA machines. Usually the problem occurs due to poor quality gasoline. Because of it, a too lean fuel mixture begins to flow into the carburetor, after which the driver hears a loud pop under the hood, reminiscent of a pistol shot. To eliminate the problem, you should drain the low-quality fuel, change the gas station and clean the carburetor jets;
excess gasoline in the carburetor. If too much gasoline enters the device, it is very difficult to start the car: the engine starts, but immediately stalls. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to accurately adjust the carburetor, and if the problem persists, install a new set of spark plugs;
no gasoline in the carburetor. If gas does not flow into the carburetor, the car simply won't start. Usually, the fuel stops flowing due to a blockage in one of the chambers of the device or due to poor regulation.There is only one solution: remove the carburetor, completely disassemble and rinse it;
Condensation has formed in the carburetor. This problem is rare, but it cannot be ignored. Most often, condensation appears in the carburetor in winter, in severe frosts. After that, the car starts very badly. If you still manage to start, you need to properly warm up the engine for 10-15 minutes. This is usually sufficient to completely eliminate condensation.

Before proceeding to dismantle the carburetor, you should decide on the necessary tools.

The hood of the car is opened, the negative terminal is removed from the battery.
The air damper is attached to the rod with a 12 bolt. This bolt is slightly loosened with an open-end wrench. The air damper bolt of the OKA car carburetor is loosened with an open-end wrench
Now it is necessary to loosen the bolt with which the air damper actuator housing is screwed to the bracket. This is done with the same open-end wrench. The bolt on the carburetor bracket of the OKA car is loosened with an open-end wrench
After that, the air-draft bolt is completely unscrewed. The link is disconnected from the damper. The air damper rod of the OKA car carburetor is removed manually
With a flat screwdriver, the end of the intermediate link is unscrewed from the lever on the throttle valve. The intermediate thrust of the OKA car carburetor is removed using a flat screwdriver
The vent hose is now manually removed from the carburetor fitting. The ventilation hose from the carburetor of the OKA car is removed manually
All wires are manually removed from the forced idle economizer. OKA car idle economizer wires are manually disconnected
The vacuum regulation hose is manually removed from the carburetor fitting. The hose of the vacuum regulator is removed manually on the carburetor of the OKA car
Use a flat screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the carburetor's main fuel hose. Then this hose is removed from the fitting manually. A screwdriver looses the clamp of the main fuel hose of the carburetor on the OKA car
A 10 open-end wrench is used to unscrew the 2 bolts holding the bracket with the air filter. The bracket is removed. OKA car air filter bracket can be removed manually
The carburetor is now only supported by the two front nuts. They are unscrewed with an open-end wrench for 14.
The carburetor is manually removed from the mounting studs. After unscrewing the fastening nuts, the carburetor is removed from the OKA car manually
Installation of the carburetor is carried out upside-down.

Most carburetor problems are due to poor quality fuel. It is this that is the reason for the appearance of plaque, carbon deposits. It also causes blockages in the fuel channels. To eliminate all of this, you will have to use a special cleaning fluid for carburetors. It is a spray can. The cylinder usually comes with a set of nozzles for flushing the carburetor channels. There are many manufacturers of fluids, but HG3177 fluid is especially popular with motorists, which allows you to ideally flush the carburetor in a few minutes.

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HG3177 carburetor flushing fluid is very popular with car enthusiasts.

rags;
several toothpicks;
a piece of thin steel wire 30 cm long;
compressed air cylinder;
protective rubber gloves and goggles;
set of open-end wrenches;
flat screwdriver;
carburetor cleaning fluid.

The carburetor removed from the car is completely disassembled. Completely disassembled and prepared for cleaning DAAZ 1111 carburetor for OKA car
All clogged channels and holes are carefully cleaned with toothpicks. And if the carbon deposit is too strongly welded to the walls of the fuel channel, then steel wire is used to clean it.
After preliminary cleaning, a nozzle with the thinnest tube is put on the can of liquid.Liquid is poured into all fuel passages and small holes in the carburetor. After that, the device should be left alone for 15–20 minutes (the exact time depends on the type of flushing liquid used and to clarify it, read the information on the can). The thinnest nozzle for carburetor flushing fluid
After 20 minutes, the fuel channels are purged with compressed air from a can.
All other contaminated carburetor parts are treated with liquid. The spray is sprayed without a nozzle. After 20 minutes, the parts are thoroughly wiped with a rag and the carburetor is reassembled.

The choke lever is turned fully counterclockwise and held. In this position, the carburetor air damper must be tightly closed. In the lowest position of the lever, the carburetor flap of the OKA car must be completely closed
Further, the carburetor trigger rod, indicated in the photo with the number 2, must be completely drowned using a screwdriver 1. In this case, the air damper should only slightly open. The starting rod of the carburetor on the OKA car is recessed with a flat screwdriver until it stops
Now, using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the edge of the shutter and the chamber wall. This gap should not exceed 2.2 mm. The gap on the air damper of the OKA car carburetor is measured with a feeler gauge
If it turns out that the clearance is more than 2.2 mm, then the lock nut holding the stop screw is loosened on the trigger. After that, the screw itself must be turned clockwise until the valve clearance is of the desired size. The lock nut is then tightened again. The air flap gap on the OKA car is adjusted by turning the stop screw
The carburetor is turned over so that the throttle body is at the top (with the choke lever held in the lowest position at all times). After that, using a dipstick, the gap between the edges of the throttle valves and the walls of the fuel chambers is measured. It should not exceed 0.8 mm. The gap of the throttle valves on the carburetor of an OKA car is measured using a dipstick
If the throttle clearance is greater than 0.8 mm, then it must be reduced by turning the adjusting screw located on the throttle lever clockwise. This is done with an open-end wrench. The gap on the throttle valves of the OKA car carburetor is adjusted by rotating the stop screw

Removing and adjusting the carburetor of an OKA car is not an easy task. Nevertheless, it is quite within the power of even a novice car enthusiast. Provided that he follows these instructions exactly. Particular attention should be paid to checking the carburetor clearances. If at least one of them is not set correctly, new problems with the carburetor cannot be avoided.

Oka's car began to be produced a long time ago and has earned considerable popularity among domestic motorists. Of course, the technical characteristics of the car in question are far from the requirements of a modern motorist. Despite this, at one time Oka enjoyed great popularity due to its inherent economy. Owners of an Oka car of the early years of production often encounter malfunctions of the engine system. This is easily explained by the service life and operating conditions of the vehicle. One of the most effective ways to return the vehicle to work is to overhaul the Oka or VAZ 11113 engine. It is quite difficult to carry out repairs yourself, since many processes will require expensive equipment. In order to save money, you can prepare the Oka for a major overhaul with your own hands.

The benefits of the overhaul are clear. Large-scale repair of the engine will allow: to increase the service life of the vehicle, to increase the resource of the engine and to increase its performance.

The first stage of the overhaul is a detailed diagnosis of the internal combustion engine.It is quite difficult to carry out a check in a garage. In order to determine the productivity of an engine, you will need computer equipment and related skills.

To perform a complete restoration of the engine, it is necessary to dismantle the vehicle device. It is not so easy to carry out this procedure with your own hands, despite the small dimensions of the motor. To avoid damage to the engine, it is necessary to use a number of specialized equipment: support frames, hydraulic puller, engine hanging device.

After the engine has been successfully dismantled, it is necessary to start disassembling it. It is necessary to disassemble the engine strictly in a certain order in order to prevent damage to its individual parts.

After disassembly, it is necessary to proceed to the most important stage of overhaul, which consists in troubleshooting individual components of the internal combustion engine. The main purpose of the overhaul is to restore the original parameters of the vehicle elements. Therefore, the only correct manual for repairing the Oka is the original manufacturer's instructions.

In the course of a large-scale restoration of the VAZ 11113 engine, the following procedures are mandatory:

Restoration of the parameters of the cylinder block VAZ 11113.
Repair of crankshaft and camshaft inlets.
Restoration of the bearing part of the crankshaft.
Processing the head of the VAZ 11113 cylinder block.
Restoring the tightness of the unit by welding.
Correction of the connecting rod geometry.
Replacement of all consumables and rubber seals.

Large-scale car repair requires appropriate skills and expensive equipment. Therefore, in order to perform the restoration, you will have to turn to professionals.

One of the most important stages of engine restoration is cylinder head processing. The vehicle manufacturer specifies the permissible head processing limit, which must be strictly adhered to when carrying out repairs. Before proceeding with a large-scale repair, it is necessary to study in detail the accompanying instructions of the manufacturer's plant. Also, it is imperative to check with the master to what depth the cylinder head will be processed. If the element is worn out above the permissible limit, further operation of the block head is prohibited. If processing and restoration of the cylinder head is possible, the work is accompanied by the obligatory replacement of the cylinder head gasket. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the depth of processing of the element in order to give the block its original tightness.

To restore the VAZ 11113 internal combustion engine to the factory parameters, it is recommended to use the services of proven workshops. Overhaul is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure that must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to assess the cost of the restoration soundly. Some car enthusiasts forget to appreciate the difference between restoring an element and replacing it. With critical engine wear, repair costs may well exceed the primary cost of the internal combustion engine. If it is necessary to replace individual elements of the vehicle, it is worth using only original spare parts from the manufacturer.

After carrying out the repairs, it is worth starting to break in the car. During the running-in period, it is necessary to prevent an increased load on the propulsion system. Otherwise, the costs of restoring the engine will not pay off and the VAZ 11113 vehicle will again lose its performance.Successful restoration of the VAZ 11113 car!Hello to all! As promised saw the 2nd part completely. In this post, the actions are already taking place in 2014. How long did I wait for the warming to get busy with the car, and now it has come.I began my renovation with the continuation of cosmetic and welding works.To begin with, I decided to make her evil eyes, so to speak, Bad boy hood) It turned out excellent metal took 1.5mm.Cut out a stencil from a sheet of iron and grinded on emery, then welded them to the hood.The bottom of the doors is a little rotten, I had to cook.I cut a corner out of the tin and tried it on.I welded it to the door, everything turned out pretty neatly. Drops from welding grind off with a grinder. The same operation was performed with the other door, and he also welded all the holes on the rear firecracker except for the lock. Now there will be no rear wiper and OKA emblem too.I cleaned all the mushrooms on the back.Disassembly began. During the evening, my friend and I scattered it all.Here is actually the best friend as an assistant)After dismantling, putty began. I started with the wings. The first layer was an aluminum filler to build strength and the like. How I was tortured to rub it, but the result was worth it)Here is the end result. The second layer was soft putty. This is where I finished with the wings.Then he began to putty all the doors.I was overwhelmed with the roof, but in 2 days it was ready)Hood. The highlight of the car. I also filmed it, it took a day to work with it.With the putty, it seems finished) We turn to the painting work. The car was washed with four hundred sandpaper, it was washed inside too, since the color will be different. Then there is the ground, unfortunately there is no photo of the car in the ground. The wash-out begins again, only not of the old paint, but of the soil. And finally, what I have been waiting for so long begins, painting)The first photos after painting :) I was happy, but it was not me who painted it, but my stepfather. I got such a skill later when I painted a car for a friend) The color is called “Medeo 428” I wanted something unusual that would stand out among the gray mice.And of course an autograph without it)Further assembly of the car, unfortunately there is no photo either.Fully assembled from the outside. New bumpers and every little thing. The salon is still empty. Photo at 2.5 megapixels) Sorry for the quality.Covering the sidewalls. Dermantin got it from his grandmother in the closet, he put everything on staples and glue.The finished version also wrapped around the torpedo and rear pieces.Oka was created as a people's car, designed to meet the demand not only of young people, but also to close the niche of vehicles and mobile vehicles for people with disabilities.Based on the technical requirements and the task put forward by the designers, the entire car, and in particular the power unit, had to be made of widespread components, be able to carry out maintenance and repairs with our own hands without involving the qualified services of a certified service station.The history of the development of the Oka family of cars saw the use of various power units. Initially, during the "prototyping", the original Daihatsu Cuore AB series engine was installed on the car, which had 2 cylinders and developed a power of 26-30 hp. The first few test vehicles were built.Despite the fact that the design of the engine was completely worked out by Toyota designers, this engine was not copied by Soviet designers, since the analysis of the design revealed increased requirements for the quality of manufacturing of parts and assembly of the engine itself.In addition, the installation of such a power unit would require completely creating the production of engines from "0", which would affect the final cost of the car and the timing of the car's release into series.By the time the concept of a "youth" or "popular" car was approved, a VAZ 2108 car was delivered to the conveyor of the Togliatti automobile plant, which determined the fate of the power unit for the baby.By 1979, the designers of the VAZ power units had fully worked out the 2108 engine and were already ready to move on to changing the line of the 1.1 liter VAZ 2108-1 export engines to the 1300 cc engine 2108, which went to the domestic market. Therefore, it was decided to develop its own 2-cylinder engine based on a new power unit, which formed the basis of the VAZ production line.Oka engine with a volume of 650 cc. turned out from half of the power unit 2108.The choice of exactly half of the already developed block and the engine itself was dictated by the cost of developing equipment for the manufacture of a 2-cylinder engine. The design feature of this in-line gasoline twin is an overhead camshaft that controls the operation of four valves - 2 for each cylinder.

VAZ-1111, -11113 with gasoline carburetor engines: 1110/1111 0.65 l (649 cm³) 25.9-29.3 hp / 19-21.5 kW and 11113 0.75 l (750 cc) 33 hp ./24.3 kW; Illustrated manual, device, service, diagnostics, repair, wiring diagrams, control dimensions of the body, spare parts catalog, all works in color illustrations. Production and practical edition Oka 1111/11113 minicar model of release from 1987 to 2008

1 - ignition switch relay; 2 - ignition switch; 3 - fuse box; 4 - switch; 5 - spark moment sensor; 6 - ignition coil; 7 - spark plugs.

Video (click to play).

A book in a series of full color illustrated DIY car repair manuals. The manual contains design features of units and systems of Oka VAZ-1111, -11113 vehicles, as well as their modifications for disabled drivers. The main malfunctions, their causes and remedies are described in detail. Disassembly and repair processes are illustrated and annotated. A separate section is devoted to car care. The Appendices contain tools, lubricants and operating fluids, lip seals, bearings, tightening torques for threaded connections, as well as an electrical diagram. The book is intended for drivers who want to repair a car on their own, as well as for service station workers.