DIY car paint repair

In detail: do-it-yourself car painting repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello everyone. I think the title of the article speaks for itself - "stages of painting a car with your own hands, a step-by-step algorithm" so the short announcement of the article accepted on our website will not be ... Directly to the body….

If the car is partially painted, then the choice is not worth it, we take the paint with which the rest of the body is painted, but if the car is painted completely, then you can change the color and type of paint, in other words, how to choose paint for a car, we have a separate article on our website.

At this stage, we inspect a completely clean car, assess the corrosion damage to the body elements, and make a decision on the need for welding.

At this stage, we remove all the components and assemblies that will interfere with us when painting the car. For example, when painting a wing, it is necessary to remove the locker, the turn signal, the headlight, and sometimes the moldings.

When the car is completely painted, it is necessary to remove handles, glass, door locks, mud flaps and wheel arch liners, moldings, antennas, headlights and the like. Disassembly - each time is carried out individually, and what exactly is removed depends on whether the entire body is painted or only part of it.

At this stage, with the help of a grinder, all damaged body panels, or parts of body panels (for example, arches), are cut out. Immediately after welding, the welded seams are ground with a grinding disc on a grinder, and treated with a joint sealant.

If the body parts are damaged from impacts, sometimes they may need to be straightened (this will improve the quality of the repair and reduce the consumption of materials in the future).

Video (click to play).

The reverse side of the panel, after welding and straightening, is processed with Movil, bituminous mastic, or anti-gravel. These coatings are applied in accordance with the instructions for use, in some cases the coatings are applied to a primer, such as anti-gravel.

At this stage, with the help of car fillers, sometimes with the help of epoxy with fiberglass, the original shape of the car is displayed.

Usually, to restore the body shape, they begin with epoxy with glass cloth (sometimes this stage is skipped, especially if the damage is minor), then glass cloth putty, then a soft putty, sometimes later with liquid putty.

Before each application of the putty, the surface is dried, matted with sandpaper, degreased, however, we have a separate article about applying the putty.

Puttying is considered complete when the surface of the putty repeats the original shape of the car and is processed with sanding paper with the number 240-360. When grouting putty between coats, I usually end up with 120 sandpaper.

At the same stage, the matting of the surfaces to be painted is carried out. We usually mate, with water, using sandpaper with a number 180-240 (this is enough for the ground).

The fact is that during painting and priming, a lot of material flies by, respectively, when this material hits the body parts, or finishing elements that do not require painting, they are damaged. To prevent this from happening, pasting is used. Those. with the help of films, newspapers, and masking tape, everything that does not need to be painted is covered.

When gluing under the ground, I prefer the film, as it is faster and easier to glue.

We have a separate article on the choice of the type of soil and its color on our website.

At this stage, primer is applied to all painted surfaces. The primer is applied to a previously prepared surface.

Prepared surface I call old paint, bare metal of the body, or putty, which does not have a gloss and is matted with abrasive paper numbered 240-360. When applied to a glossy surface, the primer will not stick and fall off during the first wash.

Immediately before applying the primer, it is necessary to degrease the surface with a silicone or gasoline remover (we also have a separate article about this).

The primer is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions from a spray gun with a nozzle of 1.4-1.6 mm.

After application, the primer is dried until completely dry.

At this stage, we apply the mat to the ground, sequentially processing it with sandpaper with numbers 240-480 (for acrylic), and 240-800 (for metallic). Matting is better with water, since the speed of work increases, the consumption of sandpaper decreases and the amount of dust in the air decreases.

At this stage, we replace old films on glass and elements, bodies that do not require painting. The fact is that when applying paint, the films will inevitably flutter and the primer that has previously fallen on them will fly off, as you know, according to the law of meanness, it will lay in flakes on fresh, not yet dried paint and ruin the coating.

It is better to re-glue the film with primer before painting! Personally, I prefer to paste over the car with newspapers or wallpaper for painting (they do not flutter as a film and dried paint does not fly off of them)

At this stage, paint is applied to the prepared soil and the pasted car. Immediately before painting, degrease the surface with a silicone remover.

The paint is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations using a spray gun with a nozzle of 1.2-1.3 mm. Usually the paint is applied in 3-4 layers. If acrylic enamel is used as paint, usually the painting ends at this point and by the 12th stage (drying). Although acrylic enamel can also be applied under varnish.

After the base enamel has dried, in the case of metallic, it is necessary to remove dust from the surface. This is done using a so-called sticky napkin. antistatic.

Before varnishing, the metallic surface is not degreased, since the silicone remover will wash it off! Therefore, varnishing begins 20-30 minutes after the last metallic layer is applied.

The varnish is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, usually a spray gun with a nozzle diameter of 1.4-1.5 mm is used for varnishing

The varnish is applied in 2-3 layers, depending on the manufacturer and painting conditions.

After applying the last coat of varnish or paint (in the case of acrylic), drying is necessary. Full drying time for acrylic enamels under normal conditions is 24 hours. At elevated temperatures or when using ultra-fast hardeners, the drying time is reduced to 2-6 hours.

During this time, the paint dries completely, but does not "stand up" ie. does not gain final strength. It usually takes 1-2 weeks for the varnish / paint to fully cure.

After the paint has dried, we glue the car and reinstall all previously removed elements (headlights, glass, repeaters, moldings, etc.). Accuracy is important when assembling, as fresh paint is very easy to scratch.

Often, if you painted for the first time on the paint there are gaps, smudges, non-spread shagreen, all these troubles are removed by polishing. Polishing can be carried out no earlier than 2 weeks after painting the car.

If there are smudges on the paint, they are smoked using the technology described here.

The polishing technology is as follows - using sandpaper with water, the car is sanded sequentially with numbers 800-1000-1200-1500 and polished with a polishing wheel and a polishing machine with three numbers of paste. The process is not fast, and we have a separate article about it on our website - polishing.

This completes the painting. If you still have questions about the stages of painting a car, or about how a specific stage of painting is carried out, ask them through the comments.

The sky-high prices for car painting in specialized services make vehicle owners think about doing such work on their own.

How to paint a car with your own hands

This process is not very simple, but quite doable at home.Do-it-yourself painting of a car requires certain equipment and tools, responsible and scrupulous performance of all stages of work, each of which has many of its own nuances and hidden "pitfalls".

You can paint a car with your own hands qualitatively only if there are special conditions and tools.

There are a number of requirements for the premises in which the entire cycle of work will be performed. It should be well ventilated, spacious enough, and bright (daylight) lighting.

Video - a tool for painting a car with your own hands:

The garage must be clean and, if necessary, it must be cleaned in order to avoid dust settling on the freshly painted car.

Video - an overview of grinders for preparing a car before painting:

From equipment and tools you will need:

compressor;

spray gun;

a set of keys and screwdrivers (for removing and reinstalling attachments);

scraper;

putty knife;

brush;

chisel.

Consumables will require:

detergent;

White Spirit;

putty;

primer;

dye ;

sandpaper;

masking tape;

rags.

The amount of consumables depends on the general condition of the body and the requirements for the final result.Initially, you should thoroughly wash off all the dirt from the surface of the vehicle, clean the body from grease and bitumen stains. An abundance of special detergents, which are easy to find in any auto shop, will help you perform this procedure efficiently and quickly.You can remove obsolete stains with white spirit. Do not use any solvents or gasoline to clean the bodywork.Further, all attachment parts of the car are dismantled, such as:

front and rear bumper;

lighting equipment (headlights, sidelights, turns, etc.);

rear view mirrors;

radiator grille;

door handles and locks;

wipers;

number plates.

The removed parts should be cleaned and washed, and then folded in a separate place. Glasses are pasted over with foil or paper, and their sealing gum with tape or special contour (masking) tape.Video - preparing for painting a car with your own hands (how to paste over a car before painting):

Sometimes the throttle position sensor, the symptoms of which should be known to drivers, leads to unstable operation of the car.

We offer you to read about BOSCH spark plugs and their selection by car make

Video lesson (practice tips) how to paint a car with your own hands in a regular garage:

Almost every car owner at least once in his life faced the appearance of scratches on the body due to unsuccessful maneuvers. At the same time, if the car's coating is damaged so that unprotected metal areas "look out" at the place of damage, then the body in this place can begin to rapidly corrode. Body corrosion is irreversible. If you ignore the damage, this process will lead to high costs for body repairs in the future. Local painting of the car will help to avoid these costs and will not take a lot of time.Today, local car painting is the most common way to eliminate minor defects on the body of vehicles. The paintwork of the body, although it is reliable and durable, as the car designers assure us, nevertheless, in collisions with other vehicles or, for example, with a curb, this coating can deform.Scratches and chips occur. The car not only starts to look worse, but there is also a risk of corrosion.The fact is that the paintwork is intended not only to make the car look brutal, but also to protect the metal component of the body from external influences.This type of work is effective only in cases where the area of damage to the coating is less than 30%. If the damage is more serious, then the entire element must be fully restored. The entire area of the element is varnished and painted over again.In this case, there should be no discrepancy in colors. The local repair method is relevant only in the case of minor damage, since it is impractical to reapply the coating due to one scratch.

So, there is a car with a damaged body. The damage area is less than 30% of the body. The task of local painting is to additionally protect the damaged area, leaving the factory paintwork on all other parts of the body.

The painting process consists of the steps described below:

The entire local painting process resembles a regular repair and enamel application. The only differences are that universal materials cannot be used for local painting. They must be specially designed for vehicles.

Judging by the numerous positive reviews of car owners who have encountered such a procedure in their lives, local painting of a car has many advantages over its complete repainting.

This method is many times better than any other method for removing minor irregularities or scratches. For example, when completely painting a car for the sake of eliminating a minor local defect, you will spend much more money and time. When using so-called pencils to remove scratches, you risk damaging your car with a poor-quality product.

Full painting of a car takes on average 4 to 6 days. Local painting, depending on the scale of liquidation works, can take from two to several hours. The quality of work during local painting is incomparably higher, since attention is paid to a specific area of the body, and not to the entire car.

Using a pencil takes even less time, but after that, roughness and roughness can remain on the surface of the body. The impression of deformation will remain. With local painting, this will not happen.

The cost of this type of work is much lower than the price of a complete painting. Sometimes the cost is even cheaper than using pencils to remove scratches, especially for very minor damage. And the most important advantage is that you preserve the factory paintwork of the body as much as possible. You don't have to repaint the entire body.

Otherwise, it would have a negative impact on the sale of the car. When fully painted, the old coating is not removed, but new layers are applied on top. Thus, while inspecting your car, a potential buyer can walk around it with a thickness gauge and suspect something was wrong. With local painting, it will be easier to prove that the car was not involved in the accident.

Unlike full painting, local painting can be done independently, saving money. But get ready to be patient and considerate. Safety precautions must be followed and the sequence of work steps must not be violated.

First you need to examine the deformed area of the body. It often turns out that in the vicinity of the most noticeable scratch and dents, you will find a bunch of other small chips and damage that are not visible from afar. Often these scratches occur on the sills and the lower part of the front bumper. You can mark the deformed areas for clarity by sticking a piece of paper on tape. Getting down to work, you will have to remove all defects of the body at once in different places.

Before inspection, it is necessary to wash the car and place it on a flat surface that is easy to inspect.It is advisable to avoid exposure to sunlight, as glare can make it difficult to find scratches and dents.

After disassembly, the element is aligned. Leveling is resorted to only when there are serious deformations in the form of dents or notches. After sanding the surface, apply a layer of putty to smooth the surface. Next, sandpaper processing is repeated.

Be sure to wait for the putty to dry, which occurs within 30 - 60 minutes. Coarse paper is used first, followed by fine sandpaper. The primer is then applied in either one or several coats. It all depends on the nature of the damage. In case of particularly serious damage, do not save soil.

This is followed by the painting process. Painting can be done with a spray gun or with a spray can with nitro enamel. In the latter case, check the shade number. You can find the exact paint code on the car body. The varnish is much easier to choose, but it should be specially designed for body surfaces and not have a shade.

In the event that the elements were removed, it is necessary to assemble. In the case of moldings, which are often poorly attached due to lagging adhesive, it is recommended to use liquid nails or double-sided tape.

If it is problematic to paint on your own for some reason, you can use the services of a car service. An approximate list of services and their cost is shown in the table.

Even minor damage to the paintwork of a car leads to disastrous consequences. They spoil the appearance of the "iron horse" and shorten the life of the body. Over time, scratches and chips become foci of corrosion, which spreads even under intact paintwork. Elimination of damage to the surface of the body is carried out immediately after their detection.

Remove the old paint completely before re-painting.

To restore the appearance of the car in case of not deep damage, re-painting the body is used. This procedure makes it possible to restore the car paintwork with your own hands.

Partial body painting, depending on the area of damage, is of two types:

retouching or directly spot painting;
local painting is a technology of car repair, in which painting of a damaged part or a separate section of it is carried out.

Let's take a closer look at what local and spot painting of a car are, in which cases they are used, what tools and materials are needed to perform these works.

Spot painting of a car is carried out with single scratches that do not reach the primer layer. Such damage is conspicuous only in bright sunlight.

Spot repair of car paintwork is a procedure that every car owner can easily handle. It allows you to paint separately each minor damage to the paintwork. There are 2 types of retouching products: in the form of a pencil or a reservoir with a coloring compound and a brush. Painting a car with a brush makes the work easier and allows you to do it neatly.

It is important to choose a touch-up product in the body color so that the scratch does not stand out even more after painting. A wide range of coloring compositions is presented in retail outlets, and with the help of a consultant, you can easily choose the desired shade.

Powder coating is the fastest and cheapest

Spot painting a car body begins with degreasing the damaged area. To do this, use a solvent that is at hand (acetone, white spirit or alcohol). The retouching agent is applied to the damaged area in 2-3 layers in order to reliably paint over a scratch or chip.

Do-it-yourself spot painting of a car is possible even for a beginner. To achieve the necessary accuracy when performing work and "fill your hand", it is better to pre-practice on an old body part or an unnecessary piece of metal.

Local painting of a car body is called a "transition", since when it is done, it is necessary to achieve an imperceptible transition between the old and new paintwork. If such a repair of the car paintwork is performed poorly, you can see the boundaries of the overlay of fresh paint on the parts, especially in bright sunlight.

Do-it-yourself local painting of a car body does not differ from complete painting and consists of the following stages:

Preparation, during which the parts are cleaned, degreased, removed rust and surface defects, and primed.
The stage of painting, during which layers of paint are applied to the part and the border of the transition between the old and new paintwork is smoothed.
Polishing the damaged area after painting.

Do-it-yourself car paintwork repairs necessarily begin with the preparation of the body. The damaged part is thoroughly cleaned, and it is necessary to wash not only the immediate place of damage, but the rest of the surface of the part. If dust or dirt from neighboring areas gets on the wet paint, defects appear on the surface. Before painting, be sure to clean the room in which the car's paintwork is being repaired with their own hands. To clean the body, use special detergents. After the car is washed, it is wiped dry.

The next step is to degrease the surface. Thanks to this procedure, stubborn stains (traces of insects, fuel oil, car oils and others) can be eliminated, in addition, the primer is better applied to the degreased surface. For degreasing, household products such as acetone, white spirit, or special automotive solvents are used. The procedure is carried out with the help of special napkins or lint-free rags, since the fibers get into the paint and appear after drying.

Advice! Some car owners use kerosene for degreasing. Remember that heavy kerosene does not completely evaporate from the surface of the part, it interacts with the paint and negatively affects the painting result.

Metallic painting of the car is performed in three layers

The place of future painting is cleaned to metal using mechanical abrasives (grinder or sandpaper). This must be done for the following reasons:

in places of old scratches and chips under an externally intact paintwork, there may be a center of corrosion;
old paintwork will soon peel off after staining;
when stripping, smooth the edges of chips that would otherwise stand out under the new coating.

If the surface of the part is covered with dents or other damage, the repair of the car's paintwork must be accompanied by leveling with a putty. The composition of the putty is selected depending on the depth and configuration of the damage. Small scratches are better filled with low viscosity solutions. It is best to use fiberglass material to remove the dent. To level the surface, several applications of the filler are required. After each layer has dried, the surface is sanded with fine-grained "sandpaper".

The last stage of the preparatory stage is the primer. The application of a primer layer ensures better adhesion of the paint to the metal, smoothes the surface and protects the part from corrosion.

For local staining, auto enamels or aerosol paints are used in a spray can. The choice of the method depends, first of all, on the size of the damaged area. The staining technology is different in both cases, so we will consider each of them separately.

Do-it-yourself car paintwork repair with paint in aerosol cans is carried out with a small area of damage. Shake the can of paint vigorously for 3 minutes before use. This is necessary so that the coloring pigments are evenly distributed in the solvent. The paint is applied from a distance of 30 cm from the surface in the direction from bottom to top to avoid dripping off the wet composition.

To obtain an evenly colored surface, 3 coats are sufficient. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried, the time required for this is indicated in the instructions from the manufacturer. Do not use the entire can unnecessarily. The paint is stored in it for a long time, and it can be used with the following local staining.

To blur the line between old and new coatings when using spray paint, the transition is treated with a special aerosol solvent. After the border is blurred, the surface is opened with a colorless varnish.

If the area of damage is extensive, it is best to use regular car paints. They are mixed with a solvent and sprayed onto surfaces with a spray gun. To evenly paint the surface, 2-3 sprays are enough.

To make the transition between old and new paint smooth, experienced craftsmen use the following tricks:

Each subsequent layer of paint should go beyond the border of the previous one, but in no case should it fall on areas with an old paintwork.
The first layer of paint should be the most viscous, and the paint for the next applications is diluted with a large amount of solvent.

You can open the painted area with varnish after the final drying of the last layer of paint. For local staining, automotive varnish in spray cans is predominantly used.

After painting, it is better to polish the part, this will protect the paintwork and eliminate defects that have arisen during painting. Prices for polishing a car body vary depending on the processing method and range from 1900 to 20 thousand rubles. You can save this amount and polish the car body after painting with your own hands.

Local polishing of the car body is carried out only after the final drying of the varnish and paint. If no defects appear on the surface of the part during painting, a protective polish is performed. With this method of processing, a polish is applied to the surface of the body and rubbed in a circular motion with napkins. Thanks to protective polishing, the body acquires shine and protection from adverse external factors.

If, after the paint has dried, irregularities appear on the surface, abrasive polishing is used. This method consists in mechanical surface grinding: using a grinder and special polishing pastes or fine-grained "sandpaper".

Do-it-yourself local body painting does not differ from the complete painting of a car. But experienced craftsmen use some tricks when doing it:

For its implementation, dismantling of the body is not required, the car is covered with plastic wrap, and its edges are fixed with tape around the painting site. Dismantling the part is only necessary if access to the damaged area is difficult.
The putty of scratches is performed in the following sequence: the solution is applied across the damage, and leveled with a spatula along it.
The color of the primer affects the final shade of the surface, so the primer is matched to the paint.
Local polishing is not always necessary. If the damage is located in a recess, near the edge or molding, then polishing is not carried out. If the damage grasps the edge or middle of the part, a partial polishing of the car body is carried out.

Damage to the paintwork of the car is inevitable during the operation of the car, regardless of its age.Driving on dirt roads at high speeds is especially dangerous, since in this case the attack by the stones on the bumper, fenders and other parts of the body only intensifies. Spot painting a car is something that all car owners inevitably face when they find small defects in paintwork and chips.

spot painting of the bumper

If you do not respond to the defect that has appeared in a timely manner, its area can increase significantly, and when moving in rainy and cold seasons, the damaged area will become a victim of corrosion, which will develop at an accelerated pace.

Therefore, the partial painting of the vehicle element must be done in a timely manner. You can entrust this to the mechanics of the service station, or you can carry out the staining procedure yourself, it is not difficult at all and does not require large material costs.

If the car owner does not have practical experience in painting body parts, there is no need to panic. It is necessary to practice a little on the old parts of the body and learn some of the subtleties of this procedure.

The peculiarities of staining will depend on many factors - the shape of the part that needs to be repaired, the type and depth of the defect and its location. In most cases, painting is necessary after dismantling the part, so first you need to familiarize yourself with the scheme for removing the part.

If the defect is located in a hard-to-reach place (a small depression), such a place will not need to be additionally polished, and this is another plus of this type of repair. When a defect has formed on the central part of a body part, you need to be prepared for the fact that it will be necessary to completely polish the repaired part.

So the car owner can take much more time and effort for such work. Do-it-yourself spot painting of a car body is a simple procedure and you can perform it efficiently even without experience.

There are several ways to repair the paintwork of a car:

Retouching details (Used in cases where the depth of the scratch or the area of the defect is small. To complete the work, you will need a special pencil, the color of which should be identical to the color of the paintwork of the car. Retouching is very simple and does not require much time and special skills). It is carried out in several stages:

Thorough cleaning and degreasing of the surface to be treated.
Applying the first layer of paint using the brush that comes with the product.
Application of the second layer of paint after the previous one has completely dried. If necessary, apply a third layer.

Local re-painting (It is carried out in cases where the defect is significant. Part of the car body must be carefully prepared before painting, special tools are used for work - a compressor and a spray gun, in some cases a can of paint).

Preparation of body parts.
Defect filling.
Applying a primer to the damaged area.
Painting and varnishing parts.

The craftsmen who are engaged in local repairs on a regular basis develop some techniques and secrets that make the whole process more technological and correct. Here are some of them:

In the process of filling, it is necessary to use agents specially selected for the type of damage to the body. Shallow scratches can be covered with liquid, for deep ones it is better to use fiberglass material.
It is imperative to apply the putty with a special rubber spatula in a certain direction - first across the scratch, then along it and smooth out the damage completely.
The color of the primer should be as close as possible to the color of the paintwork, as this greatly affects the tone of the enamel.
It is necessary to carry out spot painting in 3 layers, each must be given time to dry (at least 5-10 minutes).
If the paint is applied with your own hands, you need to select an enamel that has a certain viscosity. The first layer is usually done with thick paint, the subsequent ones - with a thinner one.

Observing these simple rules, you can competently perform minor repairs of the car's paintwork with your own hands.

With the help of spot repair, you can quickly eliminate all minor damage to the body and protect it from corrosive processes. The work takes place in several stages, which must be strictly followed.

The car must be thoroughly washed using special car shampoos and a soft sponge. The entire body needs to be cleaned of dirt, not limited only to the part where the spot painting of the car will be carried out.

preparation of the car for painting

The room in which you have to work must also be cleaned and all corners must be blown from the accumulated dust. Otherwise, dust can settle on the painted parts of the body, thereby causing the appearance of new defects.

Preparatory work begins with straightening the car and straightening all defects and dents, if any. You can start cleaning only after the surface has become perfectly flat.

At the same stage, it is necessary to choose the tone of the paint that will be used in the process, or to purchase a special pencil for painting the car. The tone of the paint must ideally match the existing paintwork of the car, otherwise it will be noticeable that restoration work has been carried out.

It is better to use the help of specialists who will select the required shade of paint.

The treated area must be degreased. As a result, all accumulated dust particles and residues of technical oil, which can cause the appearance of new defects after painting, are removed from the surface of the body.

Then cleaning is carried out, painting of small parts will not be performed efficiently if you do not pay due attention to this stage. During the cleaning process, a small layer of enamel is removed, due to which all previously accumulated rust and moisture are removed from under it.

Cleaning is carried out using sandpaper of different grain sizes or using a special machine. Some car owners use a conventional electric drill, having previously installed the necessary attachments on it.

After finishing the treatment, it is necessary to degrease the surface again and remove all dust accumulated on it. If local painting of car body elements is carried out, the cleaning process can take a long time.

In some cases, it will be necessary to clean the surface of the body almost to metal, it must be carried out very carefully, because the quality of the subsequent painting depends on this.

By applying a filler, small dents can be masked and the part can be completely leveled before painting. The choice of putty and its application must be taken responsibly.

It is imperative to study the chemical composition of the assortment presented and find out if special materials have been added to the selected putty, which additionally enhance the strength of the treated surface.

The layer should be even; this can be achieved using a special spatula. For shallow scratches, it is better to use a liquid putty, the ideal layer thickness of this material after application is 2 mm (remember that this material shrinks a little after drying).

The first layer of putty must be applied across the scratch or damage and let it dry completely. Then the next coat can be applied along the scratch until the surface is even.

During the priming process, you can fill in all the pores and small scratches that appeared after the previous steps. The choice of primer is very important, since it determines how the paint will lay down and what shade of paint and varnish can be obtained as a result.

The primer must be applied in 2-3 layers and be sure to wait until they are completely dry. In some cases, you can apply a primer using a special spray can. After completing the priming, the surface of the body must be carefully sanded again with a fine-grained sandpaper.

Only then can you start degreasing the surface and removing dust particles from it. You do not need to get carried away with degreasing and apply too much of the product, since there is a high chance of softening the layers of the primer applied earlier and all processing efforts will be in vain.

Do-it-yourself painting must be carried out in several stages and it is imperative to wait for the previous layer to dry. You can use a spray gun if you have to paint a large body part.

All parts of the case that are not exposed to staining must be closed with masking tape, polyethylene or using old newspapers. You need to apply the paint very carefully, avoiding smudges and strictly follow the instructions.

It indicates some of the features of applying the enamel, how to properly dilute it and at what temperature it is necessary to dry the painted part.

Minor defects can be painted over with a special pencil. They are of several types:

Polymer marker pencils.
Crayons, which are used if the primer or paint layer is damaged.

It is necessary to clean the scratch before painting using the technology described above. You can apply the product only after degreasing the scratch and in several layers (if necessary) to level the paint layer.

Each new layer of paint is applied with a small margin so that the transition is smoother and the place does not stand out.Spot painting also requires the use of a varnish that is fast drying and highly polished. Regardless of how the paintwork was restored, the part must be polished upon completion of painting.Final grinding and polishing can only be carried out after the part has been thoroughly dried for at least 2 days.

Video (click to play).

If the painting was done correctly, the area that was being repaired will be completely invisible, and such painting will significantly extend the life of the machine's paintwork.