Before changing the support bearing of the VAZ 2110 strut to a new one, you can always look and try to repair the old one, especially since such a procedure will be appropriate if it is not possible to buy a support frame at the moment.
Before repairing the support bearing, we need to understand the causes of the knocking, this will give us the opportunity to understand what exactly in the bearing of the support needs to be repaired.
Next, we disassemble the thrust bearing, look at the condition of the damper rubber, it often sags during operation, while the bearing itself is still in excellent condition, and a knock appears. It is impossible to purchase such rubber bumpers separately, so you will have to resort to a little trick to repair the thrust bearing.
In a MacPherson strut suspension system, thrust bearings play a key role. They are the link between the front suspension and the car body. The quality of driving, comfort and traffic safety directly depends on the state of these elements. Sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to identify possible malfunctions of these elements in the rack. How to diagnose and, if necessary, replace them will be discussed.
In fact, the weight of the front of the car (including the engine) rests on this unit. When turning the front wheels, the bearing experiences lateral loads, which accelerates its wear.
Important! Operating defective mounts can cause damage to the suspension struts and steering.
Even a minor malfunction or critical bearing wear has an immediate impact on the suspension and steering.
In the absence of a car stethoscope, an ordinary medical one will do.
Works are carried out in a garage. A pit or lift is optional.
Also, a special key can be used for dismantling.
If damage is visible to any of the elements, it must be replaced.
Evaluate the performance of the unit, it is possible that it can be partially repaired
Tip: Before disassembling, mark the position of all mounting nuts and stem with a marker to maintain the angle of the castor.
If the support itself is in order, and the malfunction only affects the bearing, it can be replaced separately. To do this, remove the rack with support (the process is described above) and deal with it separately.
Having disassembled the support (the design is different for everyone, but the principle is approximately the same), we revise the bearing.As a rule, the balls are worn out unevenly, there are seizures on the cage, and the oil seals are destroyed.
It is possible that the problem will be solved with a little blood.
Although journal bearings are usually disassembled and individual components can be accessed, there is no point in repairing them.
It is hardly profitable to dig with the component parts of the support bearing, trying to repair them.
Firstly, the bearing itself, separately from the support, is not so expensive.
Secondly, this is a crucial unit, so replacing balls or oil seals with a handicraft method will not lead to anything good. Therefore - an unequivocal replacement.
To change bearings in pairs or not - there is no consensus. Usually doubles replacement is made more due to reinsurance. Experienced workshop workers determine this need based on the general condition of the vehicle's suspension. It also happens that changing the second bearing is impractical - why throw out a well-working part?
If it turns out that the bearing is in order, and the reason for the knocking lies in the wear of the damper or other element that is not a critical component of the structure, the support can be repaired.
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In this case, we see a serviceable rubber pad, which simply changed its size during operation. Shrinkage can be compensated for by installing a machine-made gasket.
It will not be possible to return the support to 100% performance, but you will ensure a mileage of several thousand kilometers, and without any visible problems in comfort and safety.
Despite the fact that the support of the shock absorber strut is a critical unit, you can restore its performance without contacting the service. Depending on the severity of the damage, you choose between installing a new unit, replacing worn components, or repairing. The decision depends on your qualifications and the cost of components.
Replacing support bearings, as well as servicing the chassis of the car as a whole, does not require special locksmith skills and can be done by hand. Consider how to replace the front pillar slewing bearings without disturbing the camber.
The thrust bearing is located between the upper seat of the shock absorber cup and the upper seat of the strut. The main purpose is to provide a movable connection of the upper support of the shock absorber with the car body.
spanners, heads and hexagons of the required dimension;
slotted and Phillips screwdrivers;
spring ties;
a metal brush for cleaning the bolts before loosening, penetrating grease (WD-40 or its analogs).
The steering tip can be removed with a special puller or with a hammer. Also, a hammer and an adjustment of the required diameter may be required if the outer CV joint is stuck on the splines to the hub (methods for replacing bearings without removing the axle shaft are mentioned in the video, but in most cases it is really easier to unscrew the hub nut).
Keep in mind that small sets of universal heads probably won't cover all of your needs. For example, when unscrewing the upper nut of the shock absorber rod, the rod itself must be held with a hexagon. To prevent the stabilizer post from turning, for example, there may be a recess for the torx in it, so it will not work to unscrew and tighten the stabilizer with a regular head - you need a spanner wrench. Also, in some cars, the SHRUS fastening nut may not be ordinary - for a hexagon, but a special multifaceted shape. Be sure to clarify these points before repairing so that during the disassembly process a lack of tools is not found.
The dimensions of the fasteners, as well as the requirements for the clamping forces, can be found in the manual for the repair and operation of your vehicle. If you do not have locksmith experience and a sharpened muscular sense of the degree of tightening of the nuts, we recommend assembling only with a torque wrench. Of course, you will not be able to roll up the thread of the hub nut, but you can spoil the thread that secures the caliper guides.
On cars, the suspension parts of which have not been disconnected for a long time, we recommend that the day before the repair, clean the fasteners from dirt and fill with penetrating grease or brake fluid.
The described instruction and video will be devoted to the replacement of thrust bearings using the example of the Skoda Fabia.
Tighten the spring a little with the zip ties. Use only high quality screeds! Since the compression force is high, a spring that has flown out can cause serious injury.
While holding the stem with a hex, loosen the upper strut support nut.
Tighten the spring until the journal bearing is released.
You just need to install a new support bearing and assemble the shock absorber in the reverse order to removal. Some nuances:
after unclamping, the spring must "sit" in special seats for the last turn;
it is not recommended to tighten the nut of the shock absorber rod with a nutrunner;
before installing the caliper guides, be sure to lubricate them with a special grease;
do not forget to cotter the hub nut if there is a need for a manual cotter pin;
Lubricate all threaded connections, taper fit of steering ends, ball joints, stabilizer bones with graphite grease. In the future, this will greatly facilitate the disassembly process.
Particular attention should be paid to car owners who have inclined rack supports. If installed incorrectly, the new thrust bearing will bite. For a trouble-free installation, while assembling, paint or scratch marks on the post support and on the upper spring seat body.
In the video, the master mentions the need for preventive replacement of the strut cushions on some VAG-Group car models, which does not apply to support options without embedded threads.
As practice shows, the support bearings of the front struts have an approximately equal resource. Therefore, if, when diagnosing the car's suspension, you found a malfunction of the support bearing, we recommend replacing both support bearings at once. Indeed, with a high degree of probability, it is possible to predict the imminent failure of a still serviceable element. We recommend that you read the article on diagnosing the chassis of a car, in which you will find a guide to checking support bearings, strut mountings, shock absorbers, steering ends, ball joints, silent blocks, wheel bearing, etc.
The support bearing of the VAZ 2110 is one of the important parts of the chassis. Thanks to him, the shock absorber can easily rotate around its own axis without pushing through the upper part of the mount. This ensures the durability of the suspension itself and also guarantees a comfortable driving experience.
With proper operation, the part should fail only after 70-100 thousand km. However, situations arise when repairs will be required earlier. How to recognize a malfunction in time, diagnose a breakdown or professionally replace the VAZ 2110 support bearing with your own hands, you can learn from this article.
The original defensive midfielder is capable of moving 70-100 thousand km. But with improper operation, the breakdown will occur earlier. For example, a breakdown can occur due to:
dynamic driving style;
ignoring the features of the roadway;
getting inside the part of a liquid that will wash out all the grease;
The main signs of a malfunction will be:
knocking when driving on uneven roads;
vibration on the steering wheel when it rotates in motion;
slow response to driver actions;
Below is a video with recommendations for verification:
Squeak when turning the steering wheel in the area of the front wheel of the VAZ 2111:
How to check the support bearing of the VAZ 2110 strut:
This photo shows a diagram of the front suspension device of the machine with a list of the main elements:
Before the procedure, you should stock up on the necessary tools.
To work you will need:
jack, overpass or lifting mechanism;
a set of standard wrenches with caps from 12 to 28;
several screwdrivers, including Phillips and flat;
two ties for removing the spring;
motor oil.
With the tool available, you can get to work. Instructions on how to remove the support bearing on a VAZ 2110 are presented below:
We drive the car onto a lift or overpass. You can also raise the wheel we need using a jack, which should be substituted under specially reinforced body parts. It is first necessary to loosen the fasteners of the wheel rim;
We open the hood, where we loosen the three upper support mounts;
Now you need to loosen the center strut nut. It is not necessary to unscrew it to the end, so that the spring does not straighten;
Dismantle the wheel disc;
Now you need to unscrew the CV joint nut. To do this, you need to fix the brake disc or the partner must press the pedal;
We remove the brake hose fixation;
Using a 17 wrench, dismantle two brake caliper bolts;
Spread the brake pads and remove the caliper;
1. Unscrew and unscrew the steering tip nut with a 19 key;
We disconnect it with a special puller;
Using a 17 key, unscrew the ball fasteners;
We remove the steering knuckle;
Next, you need to disassemble the unit in order to dismantle the support bearing of the front pillar of the VAZ 2110:
We tighten the shock absorber spring with two ties until its upper coil stops pressing on the upper element;
Unscrew the central nut and remove the "chandelier";
We remove the support along with the accompanying elements;
Replace the support, and then inspect the condition of the remaining parts;
Next, we proceed with the installation;
After disassembly, you should definitely check the condition of all other parts of the assembly. All rubber parts, insulators and anthers must be free of cracks or holes. The spring must be free of cracks and creases. The presence of oil drips on the shock absorber is excluded. Otherwise, together with the replacement of the bearing, all defective elements must be replaced. Only fully functional parts can guarantee the correct functioning of the chassis.
Before replacing the support, you should check it. Sometimes it is possible not to install a new part, but to fix the old one. Repair of support bearings VAZ 2110 is possible when not the ball bearings themselves are developed, but the damper rubber of the support is pressed through.
We disassemble the part;
We select a metal plate of a suitable diameter and thickness (from 3 to 5 mm);
Install it on the top;
When assembling, uncouple the washer petals, and also additionally plant the parts for welding;
Below is a detailed video on the repair.
Repair of the support bearing 2110:
Opornik repair - option 2:
In fact, the easiest work is to assemble the assembly, because all actions are carried out in the reverse order.
We install the spring on the rack. Then we mount the insulators, put the support rail on top;
We tighten the central mount;
Now you need to install the node itself. We put the upper edge under the hood, where we bait the three upper mounts
Attach the ball joint mount;
We fasten the steering tip;
Install the brake caliper and hose;
We tighten the SHRUS nut;
Reinstall the wheel disc;
We tighten the fasteners under the hood.
If there are streaks on the shock absorber, the entire strut must be replaced.To do this, you need to carry out the disassembly process:
Hang up and dismantle the wheel;
Loosen the upper fasteners;
Dismantle the brake caliper with a hose;
Disconnect the steering tip and CV joint;
Disconnect the steering knuckle;
Dismantle the node;
Transfer the brake disc, spring and other elements to a new strut, and then reassemble.
It is important to remember that after such a procedure, it is imperative to adjust the wheel alignment, because when dismantling the shock absorber, the breakup bolts are disconnected.
There are many different options on the market. It is advisable to take the original parts - the article of the support bearing VAZ 2110 - RS-67499 or 2110-2902820-RU. The part is 144 mm wide, 148 mm long and 62 mm high and weighs 1260 grams.
However, there are tons of other options with good reviews. Among the well-proven products are the parts of the Balakovo plant, as well as the products of the Asomi company. The price fluctuates between 750 - 1800 rubles. When choosing a spare part, you should pay attention to the quality of the processing of the edges of the part, as well as the packaging. In addition, the part must have certificates of conformity and quality certificates with it.
Hello dear friends! Let me call you that. Today we have to discuss a fairly relevant topic for almost any car and its owner. We will talk about the front strut support bearing.
Alas, the quality of our roads leaves much to be desired. Sometimes, leaving the city center or leaving for the suburbs, I am amazed how you can drive there without having to visit the service station every week.
The condition of the roads is largely related to the need to change the thrust bearing quite often. The part is not the most expensive, but you will have to tinker with it if it fails.
To begin with, I suggest the simplest thing - getting to know the device. A thrust bearing (OP) is required in order to create a movable connection between the machine body and the shock absorber. On VAZ 2110, 2114 cars, models like Grant, Kalina, Priora, as well as on all kinds of foreign cars Mitsubishi, Volkswagen, Fiat or Toyota, for example, the location of the OP is approximately the same - the upper part of the rack. Install the bearing between the support and the upper cup (anyone, cup) of the shock absorber spring.
If you look from a purely constructive point of view, then we have a variation of rolling bearings. But the OP differs from them in the large thickness of the outer ring. The rolling bodies are cylindrical rollers. They are placed perpendicularly and divided among themselves. Due to this design, the unit can take on loads from different sides.
The task of the OP is to provide the shock absorbers with the ability to rotate freely in the supports. In any car, be it a Ford Focus or Mondeo, Chevrolet Lanos, Cruz, Lacetti, Aveo, Daewoo Nexia, Hyundai Accent or Skoda Octavia, the OP will always be slightly higher than the front spring. The damper rod will pass through the central cavity of the element. Shock absorber housings are always mounted to the body where the OP is located. As a result, two types of loads act on the support - axial and radial.
Before replacing and buying a new element to replace the old OP, you need to understand their types. This is where we start. Do you agree? Then go ahead.
Which is the best OP to buy, it is difficult to say unequivocally. Much depends on the specific vehicle. How to check if the OP is good or not? First, ask how much the bearings cost. Good parts can't be cheap. But chasing the most expensive models with a budget car is not worth it. Try to choose the middle ground.
Besides the fact that you need to look at the manufacturer, the specific type of bearing will also be important. There are several varieties of this device.
OP with a built-in inner or outer ring. For installation, use the mounting holes on the body, so there is no need for clamping flanges.
OP, in which the inner ring is detached. Structurally, the outer ring is connected to the body. It is important to take such devices in cases where you need to achieve the most accurate rotation of the outer ring.
OP having a detachable outer ring. This is the opposite version of the previous bearing. Accordingly, take them when necessary to obtain an accurate rotation of the inner element.
Single split bearings. The outer ring of such OP is precisely divided in one. With their help, high stiffness values are achieved.
Sooner or later, the malfunction will manifest itself. This is mainly due to the ingress of dirt, sand and moisture into the assembly. On average, the first signs of a malfunction appear after about 50-75 thousand kilometers. Replacement is recommended every 100 thousand kilometers.
Complicated diagnostics and a visit to the service station are not always needed to understand that the support bearing has come to an end.
In fact, there are two main indicators of breakdown or, at least, the unsatisfactory condition of the device, which requires mandatory replacement in the near future.
There is a knock on many cars. But this is not true for all cars, since knocking on the racks may be absent due to design features. Therefore, more often motorists pay attention to changes in steering behavior. It is more difficult to steer a car, you constantly need to steer if you are driving in a straight line. Moreover, when it leads you in one direction or another, you can understand with which persistent problem.
Everything is very clear about the signs. But you need to know why such a malfunction occurs and try to prevent premature wear of the support bearing on the A-pillars in the future.
Natural destructive processes. Each OP has its own resource, which is usually produced after 80-100 thousand kilometers. Sometimes, if the operating conditions are difficult, wear will occur more quickly. Therefore, it is better to check the condition of the OP every 20 thousand km.
Aggressive driving. If you like to drive, sharply enter corners and literally rape your car, which I strongly dislike, then your OP will not last anywhere near 100 thousand km. Such piloting speeds up the process of wear at times.
Bearing quality questionable. Many car owners are trying to save money by buying cheap parts. But they serve little, they can fail at the most inopportune moment. Therefore, dear car owners, do not save on such important things.
If you look at the photo, then structurally all OPs look about the same. The arrangement of the front struts on different cars also has minor differences.
But this does not give reason to use, for example, a Zhiguli repair manual in the process of replacing a support bearing on a Renault Logan, Nissan Almera, Hyundai Accent or Mitsubishi Outlander car. I recommend equipping yourself with the instruction manual that came with your machine. Even if you bought a used car, and the previous owner did not give you the manual, it will not be difficult to find it online or buy it in stores.
It is this manual for a specific car with a specific engine that is the best self-repair and maintenance manual. So that you understand what is at stake in the process of replacing a support bearing, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with an example process.
I tried to highlight the main points that each of you should definitely know.
If the bearing is completely or partially broken, then it makes no sense to try to repair it. There are no elements to be restored. So feel free to buy a new bearing right away.Its price can be from a couple of hundred rubles.
Loosen the tension on the nuts that secure the support. On most cars, they are located in the engine compartment. There are 3 of them.
Raise the part of the machine with a jack to be repaired. Remove the wheel.
What results can be done? The OP, that is, the support bearing, is a relatively small suspension element. At the same time, he plays a huge role in the quality of her work and the safety of driving. Therefore, it is important to monitor its condition and replace it on time.
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This idea is not new, but there are two nuances here.
The rest is a real way to save a bunch of money if you have your hands and change everything yourself.
It is foolish to look for a black cat in a dark room, especially if it is not there.
During operation, the gum sags and a backlash appears, and then the backlash turns into a knock. In order not to waste 500-600 rubles once more, you can pick up a washer (about 4 mm thick), put it on top of a damper rubber band (thereby removing the backlash) and put everything back together, if necessary, you can grab it by welding. Your bearing now lasts much longer. Bearings with a punched hole in the housing have a long service life.
Video guide for repairing a support bearing on a VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 with your own hands:
VIDEO
To avoid serious breakdowns in the car systems, you should pay attention to the slightest knock or creak under the hood. If you stubbornly ignore seemingly insignificant signs of malfunctions, then serious problems cannot be avoided. In particular, this is a knock when turning the steering wheel. It may indicate a faulty A-pillar upper support bearing. The defensive midfielder itself is quite simple to change, and this process will not be accompanied by serious costs. But if you do not pay attention to the breakdown in time, it will lead to more serious consequences.
The front strut support bearing is an important part of the vehicle's suspension. Unfortunately, most drivers pay little attention to the health of suspension systems. And in vain, given the state of domestic roads and, at times, the low quality of parts that are installed on modern cars. But it is the suspension that is responsible for vehicle handling and road safety.
Its maintenance is complicated by the variety of parts, and they all fulfill their functions: brackets, springs, shock absorbers, and so on. In this article, we will talk specifically about the support bearings of the front strut, since these parts are subject to increased wear and tear and often fail.
As the name suggests, the part has a supporting function. It is the connecting element between the front strut of the hydraulic shock absorber and the vehicle body. This is a variant of the rolling bearing.Significant axial loads are imposed on the part, therefore it is made of high-strength alloys. And under the road conditions in which modern cars have to move, the part wears out much faster than we would like. Therefore, it should be checked every 20 thousand km. mileage. The worse the quality of the roads on which you have to drive, the more often you need to check.
To make it clearer where exactly the part is located, and what function it performs, you need to remember how the front suspension of the car works. For example, let's take a VAZ-2110 car. It has an independent suspension with hydraulic struts. Most modern cars are equipped with the same. The front strut design effectively dampens vibrations caused by the movement of the shock absorber spring.
Here, special attention should be paid to the fastening of the rack itself. At the bottom, it connects to the rotary cam. And at the top - directly with the body. The mount is movable and is provided by the A-pillar bearing.
There are several of the most popular types of bearings used in modern automobiles. These include:
bearing with integral ring. Such a front strut support bearing device is considered the most convenient to install. The built-in ring can be external or internal. The main feature of this type of bearings is the presence of special mounting holes. Its installation does not require the use of clamping flanges. The bearing provides rotation of the parts using both the inner and outer rings;
with detachable outer ring. The inner ring provides connection to the vehicle body;
with a detachable inner ring;
singly split. This type of bearings practically does not differ from all others, but its peculiarity lies in the fact that it is made of more durable materials.
As in the case of increased wear of other car parts, the thrust bearing often fails due to domestic off-road conditions. First of all, it is a large number of pits and potholes. More significant loads are placed on the defensive support than it can withstand. That is why, with frequent driving on bad roads, the part needs a systematic diagnosis.
Another reason is the ingress of dirt into the bearing. Its design does not provide any protection, therefore it is open to contaminants entering the car from the outside. Again, the quality of the road surface contributes to this.
Low quality characteristics of new assemblies is a common situation in our auto parts market. Therefore, one should not be surprised that the defensive midfielder served two times less than the manufacturer promises.
The most common sign of thrust bearing wear is knocking when turning the steering wheel or when overcoming minor obstacles on the road. With significant wear, there may be problems with the handling of the car. Its driving performance is violated, maneuverability and steering are lost.
Due to the wear of the support frame, the toe camber may be disturbed. During a collision with a pit, the part may completely break. In addition, the rack sometimes pierces the body of the car, and this is a need for more significant costs than the usual replacement of the support frame. Then you will have to straighten and paint the iron, fix possible breakages in the suspension.
Symptoms that may appear when the support pads are worn do not necessarily indicate this particular malfunction. They are typical for other breakdowns. Therefore, before proceeding with the replacement of this part, it is necessary to diagnose the bearing malfunction. It is as follows:
we turn off the car, put it on the handbrake or install stops;
open the hood;
remove the cover of the "glass" located on the hub bearing;
we press with the palm of our hand on the support frame and ask our partner to swing the car in different directions. In this case, the puff should not "walk".
Everything is simple here. If you hear a clear knock or squeak when rocking, then the bearing needs to be changed urgently.
Replacing the front support bearings is straightforward. The main thing is to find a really high-quality part, because not all manufacturers can provide support supports with a high degree of wear resistance. So, we arm ourselves with the following tools:
spanner key;
head for disassembling racks;
candle head for a ratchet;
rod nut wrench;
spring compressors.
And, of course, the defensive midfielder himself. The replacement procedure will be carried out as follows:
Jack up and remove the wheel.
Remove the two nuts securing the front strut to the hub.
Unscrew the nut from the shock absorber rod, while holding it with a hexagon.
We remove the rack.
Compress the spring, remove the thrust bearing.
Clamp the stem again with a hexagon and unscrew the nut.
We remove the bearing, install a new one and repeat all actions, only in reverse order.
The cause of knocking during turns can be a malfunction of the steering rack, steering shaft or steering universal joint. Therefore, after replacing the defensive midfielder, the problem may not disappear. In this case, all of the above systems should be checked.
Video (click to play).
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