DIY rack support repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rack support from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Shock absorbers are a kind of consumable for your car. Moreover, the cost of maintaining the suspension in working order is inversely proportional to the quality of the roads. Car owners are constantly looking for ways to save money on the repair and maintenance of their car. We will tell you about self-repair and restoration of the characteristics of the shock absorber struts.

Typical malfunctions of this node are known to everyone:

Depressurization of the stem packing. Leads to oil leakage from the rack. It can leak at any time. The characteristics change up to a complete loss of performance.
Too free movement of the stem in the pipe. In fact, the strut turns from a shock absorber into a guide for the suspension spring. The malfunction is related to the internal valves.
Compression or rebound play. Associated with the development in the rod or cylinder. The consequences are similar to broken valves. The shock absorber does not perform its function in a car, it knocks, rattles and makes other unpleasant sounds, why driving in such a car becomes uncomfortable and dangerous.
External damage - dents on the body, cracks in the eyelet. Affects the chassis as a whole and can lead to more serious damage.

If any malfunction is detected, it is necessary to remove the rack and release it from the spring. Dismantling is carried out in the garage, without the use of special tools.

Sometimes the owners of foreign cars, noticing that their racks have leaked, turn to the service station for diagnostics, where they will carry out a check at the stand.

In fact, this is not such an easy task. Before carrying out work, you should carefully study the material and observe safety precautions. First of all, you need to determine whether you have a collapsible shock absorber or not. The monolithic body is not repairable, opening with a grinder and brewing is unacceptable.

Video (click to play).

If there is a nut or a retaining ring in the place where the stem enters the pipe, such a shock absorber strut can be serviced and repaired.

This is what a repairable rack looks like.

Compressor for supplying compressed air or pump for servicing bicycle shock absorbers.
Special connection for compressed air injection.

Attention! Safety must be taken care of. Work involves high pressure, so eye and hand protection is essential.

The shock absorber is firmly fixed in a vice, the position is vertical. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the part and blow out the piston rod entry point with compressed air. It is disassembled - removing the protective cap of the stem.

For convenience, the work is carried out in a vice

Use a pressure gauge for control. The method is suitable for gas and gas-oil racks

You can watch the process in the video.

There are different opinions: how to fill a car shock absorber. Nitrogen, carbon dioxide or just compressed air? In a garage, there are few options. Compressed air will not degrade performance much, especially since this is a repair and not a factory made rack.

The rack must be completely disassembled and cleaned of dirt and old oil. Check the O-rings and the condition of the inner pipe wall.

Remove streaks and other contamination from all rack mechanisms

No special equipment is required to work with oil racks

The next malfunction is damage to the stem, oil seals, valves inside the rack. There is a selection of spare parts on the market for the repair of collapsible shock absorbers. In addition, an experienced motorist never throws away old spare parts, but tries to repair them. In addition, you can always extract workable parts from them. So, we disassemble the shock absorber. Image - DIY rack support repair

Remember to wear gloves, work is dusty

Turning work is usually cheaper than the cost of a new shock absorber

Tip: The entire process of disassembling the shock absorber should be photographed. This will avoid assembly problems.

It is important to ensure that the assembly is clean, the ingress of dirt or solid metal particles will quickly damage the remanufactured shock absorber.

Get rid of streaks, dirt and dust during the parsing process

All parts must be carefully defect

The oil seal is recommended for replacement

After pumping oil, the rack needs to be pumped, as usual.

If you have basic information about how your shock absorbers work, you can save money on replacing them. Most of the rack models are repairable and the parts are either reasonably priced or made in-house.In any passenger car, regardless of the design, the suspension must ensure smooth running, good handling, each element of the chassis fulfills its role, and there are no extra spare parts. The support bearing is a part of the front suspension, without which a front-wheel drive car cannot be imagined, if it were not for it, the steering wheel would turn very tightly, with a terrible creak, and it would be impossible to drive the car.The question of why a support bearing is needed is asked by many novice car enthusiasts, but before you figure it out, you need to understand how shock absorber struts work and are installed. Shock absorbers in a car are designed to provide a smooth ride, smooth out shocks and vibrations when driving on uneven roads, bumps and bumps. On front-wheel drive cars, the struts are attached from above to the body, to the so-called "glasses", in the lower part they are connected to the steering knuckles. The support bearing (OP) is often called the upper shock absorber support, this generally simple device plays a very important role in the suspension of the car, and if it is faulty, it will become difficult to drive the car. The condition of the supports must be monitored and replaced in time - one must not forget that traffic safety depends on them.A typical OP has three parts:

an upper metal plate with fasteners (most often these are three pins);

lower base;

directly from the bearing itself.

The lower and upper plates are rigidly connected to each other, the bearing itself is usually pressed into the support body, moreover, the OP versions may be different, each automaker uses its own design solutions. With the help of the support, the shock absorber strut is fixed on the body, due to the OP, the shock absorber turns relative to the body smoothly, while there are no backlashes.The upper supports of shock absorbers on different car models can be structurally significantly different, be different in fastening;

with two or three pins;

with a thread in the body of the cup for screwing in bolts.

To damp vibrations and vibrations, shock absorber cups often have a rubberized surface or separate elastic elements, and the bearing itself can be pressed out and replaced.What other support bearings are there? There are car models on which the upper support is not attached to the "glass" of the body with studs or nuts, the shock absorber is held by the upper steel plate. The metal wide washer is fixed here with a nut screwed onto the shock absorber rod; to ensure a soft connection, a rubber spacer is placed under the plate (a similar design is found on the Chery Amulet car).In some designs, the upper support consists of several parts; they can have separate upper and lower cups, rubber buffers, and the bearing itself. When assembling the shock absorber strut, all parts are installed in a specific order, they cannot be confused in places.Like any parts in the car, OP wear out and break over time, these suspension elements have their own service life.For each car model, the shock absorber supports have their own resource, on average, parts without replacement can travel from 50 to 100 thousand kilometers. But for various reasons, thrust bearings can fail ahead of time, the main causes of malfunctions:

car operation on bad roads;

poorly performed repairs (for example, during installation, the nuts were not completely tightened);

poor quality of spare parts or marriage, most often non-original parts are of poor quality;

destruction of the OP as a result of an impact (upon collision with an obstacle or as a result of an accident);

ingress of dirt, moisture on the parts of the "support", on many car models these parts are not protected by anything.

To make sure that the upper support is faulty, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics; in general, it is not difficult to check the support bearing, but it is better to diagnose the suspension together.The OP check is performed when the car is standing on a level surface, while the wheels do not need to be hung. Diagnostics is performed as follows:

one of the participants in the check in front swings the car up and down;

another person makes a visual inspection, looks if there are any backlashes.

Additionally, you can turn the steering wheel and observe the behavior of the shock absorbers, put your hand on the upper support while the steering wheel is rotating or the car is rocking - if there is a play, you will feel it with your hand, and you can also hear clicks and creaks. Another diagnostic option is to grab the upper cup protruding above the glass and try to shake it from side to side, in which case the backlash will also be noticeable.Signs of a defective thrust bearing include:

knocking in the front suspension while the car is moving;

intermittent squeak when turning the steering wheel;

crunching, knocking from the front when driving on uneven roads, for example, when driving at a railway crossing;

tightly rotating steering wheel;

instability of the car on the track.

It is possible to accurately identify the malfunction only when disassembling the shock absorber struts, making a visual inspection of the parts.The upper support of the front pillar is a relatively inexpensive part, the cost of a spare part depends on the car model, brand, design features; it is no secret that auto shops can sell the same parts at different prices. The approximate price of a shock absorber bearing is from 150 to 2200 rubles, for prestigious foreign cars, parts usually cost significantly more, it is cheaper to buy an OP of non-original production. As you can see, the spread in prices for these parts is quite large, the most expensive bearings are sold for cars:

Mazda 3;

Toyota 4Runner / Avensis;

Nissan Juke;

Honda CR-V;

Mercedes W204;

Lexus RX300;

BMW X6.

At a very affordable price, you can purchase thrust bearings for such car models as:For Chinese and Korean cars, thrust bearings are generally inexpensive, almost always more expensive are spare parts for brands such as BMW, Audi, Lexus, for many purely American cars.It is not very difficult to change the support bearing, and almost every driver can do the job with the necessary tools and at least a little locksmith experience. It is more convenient to replace the OP on a pit or a car lift, but you can also make repairs on a flat area, for example, in a garage or on the street near a house.Which keys are required for repair depends on the specific car model, in addition to combination and spanner keys, heads with wrenches, hexagons and sprockets are often used. To change the thrust bearing, it will be necessary to remove and disassemble the shock absorber strut, therefore, in any case, you will need:

hammer;

screwdrivers;

pliers;

mount;

set of ties for springs;

puller of ball joints (steering rods).

Cars such as Mitsubishi, Renault or Chevrolet often require custom key sizes - 16, 18, 21 and 23.To replace the OP without a lift, the car will have to be jacked up; before starting work, stops under the rear wheels should be placed. Next, we perform the following actions:Some car owners advise using a gas wrench instead of a special key to hold the shock absorber rod, but this is not recommended, you can scratch the mirror surface, and then the shock absorber will flow.Since many VAZ models have an identical suspension design, just like on the VAZ-2115, they are replaced on machines 2108-09-099, 2110-11-12, 2113-14. Due to the fact that with this sequence of operations the steering knuckle is not disconnected from the shock absorber strut, the camber after repair does not need to be done.

When disassembling, the hub nut should be loosened before you remove the wheel, if the car is already suspended on a jack, it will not be easy to move it from its place.

If there is no puller for ball joints and tie rods, the steering end can be knocked out by hitting with a heavy hammer at the joint of the hinge, the blows should be sharp and accurate. Even if the tip "boils" seriously in the connection, after several attempts it still comes off.

To make it easier to disassemble the shock absorber after removal, you can immediately (while the shock absorber is still on the machine) loosen the shock absorber rod nut.

To make it easier to loosen the nuts and bolts during the next repair, it is recommended to apply graphite grease to the fasteners and threads during assembly.

When removing the shock absorber assembly with the hub and steering knuckle, it will not be superfluous to check the condition of all suspension parts on this side of the wheel. Such diagnostics will save you money and time, because it is often found that together with a defective support bearing, for example, the shock absorber is also faulty, or the outer CV joint has a large backlash.

It is necessary to compress the spring with ties gradually, tightening the coils little by little from one side and the other. The spring is compressed until the upper support begins to rotate freely, too strong compression of the coils is not required, and in general it is unsafe.

In general, replacing the support bearings on the front struts is quite simple to make a replacement, it is not necessary to go to a car service, you can do the work yourself.

In a MacPherson strut suspension system, thrust bearings play a key role. They are the link between the front suspension and the car body. The quality of driving, comfort and traffic safety directly depends on the state of these elements. Sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to identify possible malfunctions of these elements in the rack. How to diagnose and, if necessary, replace them will be discussed.In fact, the weight of the front of the car (including the engine) rests on this unit. When turning the front wheels, the bearing experiences lateral loads, which accelerates its wear.Important! Operating defective mounts can cause damage to the suspension struts and steering.A typical arrangement of support bearings can be seen in the diagram:Even a minor malfunction or critical bearing wear has an immediate impact on the suspension and steering.

Since the bearing has a mechanical connection with the support cups of the struts, the slightest backlash immediately gives off to the body with characteristic knocks.

Turning the steering wheel becomes difficult, especially on vehicles without power steering.

When turning, a creak is heard in the area of the support cups.

A more detailed check can be done using the assistant:

Open the hood and ask the assistant to turn the steering wheel (if there is a power steering, the engine should be started). You can feel the bumps and clicks by placing your hand on the support. More precisely, the malfunction is determined using a car stethoscope.

In the absence of a car stethoscope, an ordinary medical one will do.

Rock the car from side to side with the help of a partner.A faulty support will emit knocks.

The work is carried out in a garage. A pit or lift is optional.

Curved grip spanner.
Special head for disassembling racks. Choose a head, in consultation with a consultant, all tools are different
Long head (candlestick).
Special key for the stem.
The usual set is a ratchet with a set of heads, for the size of the fastener.
Torque wrench.
Brace for strut springs.

First, we completely dismantle the rack. First of all, you need to unscrew the upper shock absorber rod using two keys. Also, a special key can be used for dismantling.
The lower part of the rack can be removed in the traditional way or simply removed from the support bowl. For this, the vehicle is raised with a jack. Then the support is removed.
If the support bearing fails, it makes sense to revise the entire shock absorber assembly. If damage is visible to any of the elements, it must be replaced.
After dismantling the rack with the support, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the seat from dirt and check the mechanism for corrosion damage. Then it is necessary to clean the metal from corrosion (if any), treat it with a rust converter and paint.
An old support, especially one with damage, cannot be repaired, so it is replaced with a new one. Assess the performance of the unit, it is possible that it can be partially repaired
Then the rack is assembled without removing the spring ties, and the updated assembly is installed in place.

Tip: Before disassembling, mark the position of all retaining nuts and stem with a marker pen to maintain the angle of the castor.

Ties are not removed until the end of the work

With the strut secured to the lower suspension arm, carefully raise the assembly with a jack. It is better to perform this operation with an assistant. One mechanic raises the jack, and the other monitors the alignment of the support landing pins.

You can do the opposite - raise the car body, leaving the suspension with the wheel on the ground. Then install and secure the support. Then slowly lower the jack while simultaneously centering the shock absorber rod in the support seat. This arrangement allows the assembly to fit more naturally into the seat.

After the final shrinkage of the stem in the support hole, we tighten the fastening nuts. When specifying the tightening torque values in the instructions, use a torque wrench.

Do not forget, after fixing all the elements, to remove the rack spring tie. At the end of the repair, before driving on public roads, it is necessary to carry out a test drive on an empty road: this is how you need to check the operability of the steering and the absence of extraneous noise in the suspension.

If the support itself is in order, and the malfunction only affects the bearing, it can be replaced separately. To do this, remove the rack with support (the process is described above) and deal with it separately.

Having disassembled the support (the design is different for everyone, but the principle is approximately the same), we revise the bearing. As a rule, the balls are worn out unevenly, there are seizures on the cage, and the oil seals are destroyed.

It is possible that the problem will be solved with a little blood.

Although journal bearings are usually disassembled and individual components can be accessed, there is no point in repairing them.

It is hardly profitable to dig with the component parts of the support bearing, trying to repair them.

Firstly, the bearing itself, separately from the support, is not so expensive.

Secondly, this is a crucial unit, so replacing balls or oil seals with a handicraft method will not lead to anything good. Therefore - an unequivocal replacement.

It is safest to change the entire bearing

To change bearings in pairs or not - there is no consensus. Usually doubles replacement is made more due to reinsurance. Experienced workshop workers determine this need based on the general condition of the vehicle's suspension.It also happens that changing the second bearing is impractical - why throw out a well-working part?

If it turns out that the bearing is in order, and the reason for the knocking lies in the wear of the damper or other element that is not a critical component of the structure, the support can be repaired.

Support bearing VAZ 2109

As a rule, on the VAZ 2109, replacing the support bearing for some drivers is a problem. They do not know how to carry out a replacement, although there is nothing complicated in it, and they take their vehicle to a service station, where they take a lot of money for a simple operation.
In the VAZ 2109, the replacement of support bearings is easy and simple to carry out independently, without the presence of any special tools and equipment that are difficult to find. In this article, we will learn how to carry out an operation in your own garage without spending a lot of time, effort and money.

Replacing the support bearing VAZ 2109

As you know, a thrust bearing or OP, as we will call it hereinafter, is designed to perform certain functions. Its main task is to rotate the rack around its axis.
The OP is located in the front suspension and on a front-wheel drive car, which is the VAZ 2109, however, as well as on a rear-wheel drive, in fact, it is the most important link. Before we move on to the direct algorithm for replacing the OP, we learn important information regarding this bearing.
So:

VAZ 2109, like all modern cars, has in its design to control movement not only an elastic, but also a damping device called a shock absorber. This is one of the main components of the front suspension.

Replacing the support bearing on the VAZ 2109

Note. The shock absorber strut is designed to absorb vibrations that inevitably occur when a vehicle is moving, even on a perfectly flat road.
It is the strut support that dampens vibrations. The rack itself is fixed with its lower end to the steering knuckle, and with its upper end to the car's mudguard.

The OP is an integral part of the rack support. These parts belong to the group of rolling bearings.
They have found wide application in domestic mechanical engineering due to many advantages, among which I would like to highlight versatility, perception of combined loads, and much more.
The OP is directly involved in damping road vibrations, and, to put it another way, in the damping and shock absorption of the VAZ 2109. In this case, the OP realizes a movable connection of the shock absorber to the car body, simultaneously influencing the accuracy of the wheel mounting angles.

Replacing the support bearings in the VAZ 2109

The OP still differs from the standard rolling bearing, although it belongs to the same group. Here, the rolling bodies are always cylindrical rollers located perpendicular to each other.
In addition, each of the rollers is protected from contact with each other by a special cage. Thus, each of the rollers acts as a separate element that independently takes on loads from different directions.

Replacement of support bearings VAZ 2109

In modern cars, such as the VAZ 2109, the following types of OP are usually used:

Bearing with integral ring (it can be inner or outer). This type of bearing has mounting holes and does not require clamping flanges.
In addition, this type of OP has built-in spacers to ensure constant rotation accuracy. This type of OP is used, both for the rotation of the outer and for the rotation of the inner ring.
There is another type of OP, which is endowed with an already detachable inner ring for rotating the outer one.
The outer ring in this type of OP is in contact with the body. This type of OD is used wherever the accuracy of rotation of the outer rings is usually required.
The third type of OP is a bearing with a detachable outer ring for rotation of the inner one. In this type of OP, the inner ring is already in contact with the body, and the outer one is detached.
It is used where it is necessary to ensure the accuracy of rotation of the inner ring.

Replacing the support bearing on the VAZ 2109 rack

The fourth type of OP is called single-split.In such a bearing, the outer ring is split at one point, which increases the rigidity of the entire bearing.
It is used again where it is necessary to ensure high accuracy of rotation of the outer ring.

Typically, strut support faults are detected while the vehicle is moving. If there is a problem with the stance, there is a characteristic knocking sound, especially when driving on uneven roads.

Note. If such a knock occurs, it is necessary, first of all, to check the reliability of fixing the support and if it is to be replaced, then not only the rubber damper, but also the OP is replaced simultaneously with it.

During the movement of the car, the OP is subjected to enormous loads, because it is this element that restrains the shock absorber's rebounding stroke. Because of this, this bearing is checked every 20 thousand kilometers for a malfunction, and every 100 thousand kilometers a mandatory replacement is required, regardless of the state of the rack itself.

Replacing support bearings on a VAZ 2109

Note. Most often, the OP for the VAZ 2109 requires replacement if for its owner the main and daily road is a primer or he often goes to the country house or to nature, driving through uneven bumps and potholes.

The shock absorber strut support is endowed with a rubber-metal element, which cracks during long-term operation. The wear process of this element is also influenced by dramatically changing weather conditions, oil deposits and other contaminants.
In this case, it is advisable to replace this element so that it, in turn, does not affect the operation of the OP.

Vaz 2109 thrust bearings

As mentioned above, this element experiences incredible loads during the movement of the vehicle. Therefore, you have to regularly check the support bearing for wear and monitor its technical condition.
It is not difficult to do this, and it is enough to know a few important nuances.

Note. A knock when the car is moving on an uneven road already a priori indicates a malfunction associated with the OP or the rack as a whole.

To check the OP for wear, you need to do the following:

We grab the rack with both hands.
We ask the assistant to shake the car.
If a characteristic knock is heard, the OP must be replaced.

Vaz 2109 strut support bearing

It is also important to know that a worn-out OP provokes many violations. If it is not changed in a timely manner, then this, first of all, will affect traffic safety, the camber-toe setting will be violated and the wear of the shock absorber itself will accelerate.

The bearing, if a problem is found in it, cannot be repaired.
It can only be changed, but the replacement process can be carried out in various ways:

The first method involves dismantling the entire rack, of course, with levers and everything that is attached to it. If you use this replacement method, then all the alignment settings are saved.
Another replacement method involves disconnecting the strut from the steering cam. After that, everything else is only removed.

Vaz 21093 support bearing

This method of replacement is more in demand and for its implementation you need to arm yourself with the following tools:

Dedicated stand nut puller.
Spring ties.
Special puller for removing the steering tip.

The hub cap is removable.
The SHRUS nut will be unlocked. In some cases, this nut can be locked so tightly that it is not possible to crawl up to it with a screwdriver or any other tool. In this case, you will have to work with a drill with a suitable drill size.

We take the required size of the head and use the knob to unscrew the SHRUS nut until it becomes easy to rotate by hand. The assistant keeps the brake pedal depressed at this time.
We put the car on a lift.
We remove the wheel.
Now you will need to unpin the steering tip nut. After that, it will need to be turned off.
We take a hammer and a pry bar - we press out the finger.

Replacing the OP in the first way

Disconnect the ball, first unscrewing the two bolts holding it.

We take the brake hose and release it from the rack.

Note. It is imperative to take the caliper aside so that it does not hang on the brake hose.

Now you need to unscrew the rack nut, but not completely.

We now unscrew the three nuts securing the support.

The CV joint nut is turned off. The stand is removed, and the CV joint of the vaz is simultaneously pulled from the slots.

Strut removal operation

After tightening the spring, the OP is turned away.
We install a new bearing.
We collect everything as it was.

Note. When reassembling, it is advisable to install a new nut, which must be tightened with a large torque and must be locked.

We hope that the instructions for replacing the support frame with your own hands will be invaluable. In the process of work, it is imperative to use photos and videos - materials that give practical understanding.
Thus, by doing everything yourself, you can save a lot, because the price for such repairs in professional workshops is not low.

Replacing the front suspension struts. Replacing the front suspension springs Replacing the strut support [crab] and the front suspension pivot bearing.

Surely you will be interested in:

Oil smudges are visible on the racks or the entire rack is covered with oil deposits (the rack has leaked).
On the vibration stand, it was revealed that the rack needs to be replaced.
If you look at the wheel from the side while driving small bumps, the wheel does not immediately stop vertical oscillations.
If you shake the car vertically, then the vibrations damp out more than once. (i.e. if you press, for example, on the wing of the car and release, then the car at the working stance should simply take its normal position, if the struts are punctured, then the car body will make some more vibration)

Symptoms for replacing suspension springs (tired springs):

The car has less ground clearance than the new springs.
The spring is broken.
The spring coils are too close and on bumps, the spring coils may collapse.

Symptoms for replacing the strut support (crab):

When viewed from above, the following replacement symptoms are possible in the center of the support:

The strut stem is not in the center of the strut post.
The rubberized drain support element (central part) has a visible working out, or rubber torn from it is visible on its sides.
If the head turns the nut of the fixing post on its support, then the rubberized central part of the support will rotate together with the rod of the post.

There are visible cracks or damage on the crab.

Symptoms for replacing the front suspension pivot bearing:

Symptoms for replacing anthers on a rack:

You will need:

To carry out the entire procedure, you will need at least some set of tools, it will be most convenient with a ratchet and heads, as well as a pair of ordinary keys.

First, we rip off the wheel bolts and jack the right side of the car. We substitute a chock under it (take a reliable chock, so that without risk). We remove the wheel and see:

Next, you should rip off all the nuts, while the entire suspension is under tension from the spring, it makes it easier for us to rip off the strut stem nut. If the crab is normal, then it is easy to pluck it. If your crab has fallen apart, then unscrew this nut until the spring is tightened, and the rubberized piece of metal of the crab rests on the sides and top of the crab itself, try to rip the nut off with sharp jerks. I managed to rip off after probably 5 turns of the stock.

We also tear off 3 nuts securing the crab to the body.

We take out the stand assembly and tighten on the spring both ties ... To understand how much to pull, you can unscrew the drain stem nut upwards. ( Do not under any circumstances unscrew this nut yet. ). So the ties need to be twisted until the crab or the cup or the spring itself begins to walk a little in their places. all as soon as they saw a free play, such as a crab or a spring, unscrew the rack stem nut.

After that, everything is removed from us:

Shock absorber support (2-piece)
Bearing
spring cup with boot
spring

And the shock absorber itself remains.

We replace the faulty element, you can still check the elasticity of the rack for your own peace of mind.

If you put a spacer, then you probably sold long hairpins with it, knock out the old ones with a hammer and drive new ones into it, now they will be enough for the spacer.

If you change the spring, you should remove it from this tie, unwind them alternately and a little bit, as soon as you remove it, wind the ties in the same way on the new spring.

If the boot is torn, change it!

In order for the assembled stand to stand up immediately and correctly, without twisting, twisting and swirling, you need to assemble it correctly:

Put a spring on the rack (it is understandable to put on, it is not possible to confuse the position)
A rubber band from a cup was put on the spring (there are traces on it where the end of the spring was, we put it on)
We put on the cup itself on the elastic band or with it. If you take a closer look at it, you will see a small notch and the inscription OUT on the side of the cup (see the first photo on the right), and so this notch should look in the same direction as the mount of the stand itself (shown by arrows in the photo).
further on the bearing cup. (do not disassemble or lubricate it, it is almost eternal and as it is, if it does not spin at all, you can get a new one, but I have never met this!).
We put a crab on the bearing, the lower part of the strut support, and on it and already the strut rod, while the strut will probably have to move a little. Make sure the bottom of the crab is seated on the bearing correctly and tighten the strut nut.

now you need to get rid of the mats, many who change the racks themselves then swear when they try to hit the holes with the pins in the body, but they do not fit, and the already collected drain is twisted and twisted and cursed by weight. So, in order to get there right away, on the crab, see the letter F from above, it means FRONT (before), in short, we turn the crab on the bearing so that this letter looks forward when installing the rack. (photo 2)

Collected, it's time to put. You are from below, assistant from above. You seem to raise the rack from the bottom and try to get it into the holes in the body, the assistant directs the crab from above, and if at least one pin gets into the nut, it’s easier further. We swing and move the rack to get into all the holes, if you hit 2, you can tighten the nuts on them and the third hairpin will go in place by itself. as soon as all 3 pins are in place, we loosen the nuts on them to the very tip, so that when you hit the bottom, the entire drain has a free run in different directions.

Video (click to play).

Here it is more difficult - we take the drain with two hands, between them we put the assistant's foot on the pivot fist, and ask him to press or jump on it, while at this time, tilting the pivot fist and moving the stand itself, we try to bring it straight to the mountings, while strongly on the anther with a stand not yulozim so as not to tear it. brought on one plane of attachment (it turned out approximately as in photo 1). now we take the screwdriver again, and again ask the assistant to suppress it with jerks, while trying to get in, connect the holes in the rack and the mountings in the steering knuckle, as soon as these holes are caught, do not push the screwdriver to the end, no deeper than the middle of the mount (this makes it more convenient to look for coincidences second holes). Wiggling with a screwdriver, find the position when the second holes coincide, and either immediately insert the bolt, or there is something thicker than a screwdriver, also to the middle (not for departure). if so, then feel free to pull out the screwdriver and wiggle a new stick to find the position for the bolt. (photo 2). After one bolt is inserted, insert the second.

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