DIY gamo optical sight repair

Dear! Has anyone tried to repair a telescopic sight reticle or STE pure masochism.

someone tried it. but it is better to contact an optician.

I tried. But not knowing what kind of sight and what kind of problem with the reticle I can’t help.

Sight 4x20 Gamo-tv-. after several shots, the mesh came off in one place - it was useful to repair and. ripped off in all other places

(in short, I didn't notice behind myself, but as it turned out, "The eyes are afraid, and the hands are hooks"

The grid itself? You can try using something like super glue or epoxy. Its weight, and, consequently, inertia, is minimal - it should not be torn off again during recoil. But you have to unscrew what it was attached to. Such a ring with carvings. You will be collecting back - grease with sealant or put a round rubber gasket from the flexible liner so that it does not turn.
This is, if not too lazy to mess around. In general, scopes of this type cost a little - maybe it's better to take a new one?
Good luck.

Probably it will not work, tk. it broke in the middle. They gave me a sight to the DR - it's a bit a pity to throw it away. I will give it to my son as a toy to use

And thanks for the advice!

I had the same situation. Took a regular hair (from my sister, thinner

and glued it. Thicker, of course, than it was, but nothing worked. Later, the sight was safely donated. As far as I know, they still use it.

What are you going to bet on?
The sight is very bad. My friend's net was torn from recoil. He had hooked a hair on somehow.
Even if you do everything, there will be no grouping. Tired of shooting.

Give the sight to your son, and buy yourself some kind of Lippers.

quote: Originally posted by S-z:
Dear! Has anyone tried to repair a telescopic sight reticle or STE pure masochism.

It depends on what you need it for. If you just want to fix the sight quickly, then a clump of hair from a brunette who has turned up under the arm will do (red hair sensitively reacts with linear extensions to the humidity of the air, blonde is translucent). And if you want to make an aiming reticle “for yourself”, for your rifle and ammunition, you will have to suffer thoroughly. But this is real, and you can make a grid with a pattern like that of an SVD, or make a Predator-style grid from a famous movie. If you are interested in making a grid “for yourself”, write to R.M. But, to be honest, I wouldn't bother with a Gamow pencil.

I know this sight, the question is what rifle?

MP-512 AP. I don't want to buy a sight 2 times more expensive than a rifle. Right now, Tasko 4-20 is worth it, which has decently endured more than 1000 shots (although for comfort, of course, junk is 290 rubles.)

AP is a loose concept, but it's not surprising at all that she died - she's not AP. Your propeller needs AR optics. You understand the recoil, you repair it, put it on and die again, it is not for such rifles. Take the simplest BSA (AR) 4x32 constant, we have it in the store about 50 USD. costs.

We are from Perm, and how does this affect the repair of the sight.

“I don’t want to buy a sight 2 times more expensive than a rifle.”

If you want to shoot a lot, and not constantly shoot a rifle, then you will have to buy a sight that costs 2, atoms and 3 times more expensive than a Murka.

I went through it all myself. I shoot ZhSB 4.52.
And I'll tell you that when you get it, you need to change the scope to a steeper one - the cost of bullets spent on zeroing in a pencil will be decent, maybe like a quarter or a third of a normal sight.

for S-z
Eh if you were from Peter then you could
go to the UDELNAYA metro station, there
there is a flea market on which they sell GOOD sights
I bought myself there too, VERY cheap, for 350r
and while everything works

OFF
comrade,
Where is the flea market? To my shame, I live on the other side of the city and I don't know

I only know Juno. Write, if not difficult, how to find it all or the address. Looked at the map, did not realize.

A bit off topic, but I'm wondering - is it difficult to make illumination in a conventional telescopic sight?

Maybe someone will tell whether it is worth doing. I want to pull out the crosshair in the scope and scratch the vertical and horizontal marks on it. I don’t know how to pull out the crosshair. Sight BSA FF3-9x40. Can anyone whisper about this?

Why did you get that grid on your glass. You have it made of "foil" with a thickness of 0.01 to 0.04 mm (the thickness of a human hair).

frol, oh, don't scratch the mesh, God forbid, the atoms will break from the recoil and you will break it yourself when scratching. if the sight works well, then there is no need to climb there again.

Well, if you want to climb, then on most scopes there is a screw on the magnification ring, start with it, then unscrew the eyepiece and you will be happy. But I repeat, it's not worth it, but then you and the author of this topic will be wise to figure out how to put a new grid

PNN SHUSHIK there are kind people, thanks for the advice, otherwise I foolishly almost disassembled the scope. I will look for another one with divisions.

always please come again

Today I discovered one more problem. If you shake the sight, then there is something quietly blurting out. can anyone tell me what it is and how to fix it, thanks in advance.

Pinch the pressure plates on the rings with your fingers and stop blurting

)

Sergei, he squeezed everything with both hands, anyway, he blurts out. It doesn't bryak along the aiming axis, but you shake it across it - it bangs.

It's worse. Try another finger on the lens - will it stop or not .. The lenses are tightened with threaded rings and each has 2 cuts for the tool. if there is a gap in the lens, then it is better to immediately make a screwdriver from the plate (like a wide one for the entire diameter of the lens) and so that it does not touch the lens itself and tighten it. But to get to this ring, you need to unscrew the retaining ring and the end ring (protective and decorative).

I discovered the reason when I disassembled the scope. On what I thought, it happened. The first lens of the reversing system from the lens gagged. But the glue was set on glue, it was not possible to unscrew it. I glued it with a super moment, it seems to be loose. But when assembling, I broke the thread of the crosshair, however. There is a cross, of course, but a little crooked. Why did I not understand the lens weakened, since the sight was not on the PPP? At first I was on a rat, and now I am on BAM-50.

To restore the mesh, I took the wires from the winding stranded wire (litz wire) where the veins are thinner than a human wire and you can solder it to the rim of the sight - it's easier than gluing (for me) - Successes .. Eyes are afraid, but hands do it.

Sergey, thanks for the advice and if not for scrap, then even more precisely about the wire. I understand that it is from the transformer or am I wrong?

No, this wire winds the coils of the DV range on old transistor receivers, winds the heterodyne coils, etc. This wire is easy to distinguish - it has a blue silk thread sheath and is stranded. Practice removing (tearing off with your nails) the braid, taking the wires of 1 piece and burning it with a match. do it quickly, otherwise the wiring itself will burn out .. the varnish will flare up and it’s ready, clean the wires under your finger on the gray of the matchbox and you’re ready and solder .. Everything that I restored is alive, but glued — not all — Success.

• Here you can see the damage, the mesh is knocked down and one lens is rotated.
  

  Well, the disassembly itself in order:
  

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

  So the shape-shifter was found

  
  
  
  
  

  We are trying to restore the mesh, we are trying to use a wire.
  

  Made a hint

  
  

  I cleaned out the places for the wire.
  

  I tried to solder

  oh, and the trouble is.
  

  Fuh. I seem to have succeeded

  collecting watching!
  
  

  And we go crazy

  pounded a pancake, garbage hangs around the edges.
  Well, I got experience, now I will know what and how to do, so as not to be surprised later

  And finally, another photo

  
  
  At the end of the assembly I broke it AGAIN.

  So to be continued.

  • • only disassembled, it feels a little thick.But I have thicker hemp on a 4-fold saw! In general, I think it is acceptable to place the main hassle evenly, put the thinnest wire that I found, you can take a vein from old headphones.
      But soldering. The fact is that it was not possible to unscrew the sleeve on which the mesh had to be soldered "in the hole" and held with tweezers and soldered, this is something
      Wait an idea came alone, I'll try.

      • • Thank you Volodya for the idea, I'll try later
          And business, well, business is there.

          • Thank you Volodya for the idea, I'll try later
            And business, well, business is there.

            Any technique is difficult to understand, but everything is disassembled into small and interesting details.

            right now, in short, I read somewhere, you need hair, a cat's undercoat, you make a type of mini-bow where the hair is like a bowstring, for orientation, do it on a sheet of paper, fix it with a drop of second glue

            From my experience: the best material for mesh is fiber from. I don’t know how to call it. let's say cable

            headsets for telephone earphones. Not a metal vein, but the fiber that reinforces this vein. Kevlar, it seems. I will not approve, but very durable for its meager thickness. It stretches very well, does not sag and does not tear in the future. Its color does not affect the result in any way. I made from light. The cross turned out to be very thin, but clear. I glued it with a second glue, which is most convenient for work. However, it should be borne in mind that the scope can be assembled only a few days after gluing. Otherwise, the lenses will become cloudy due to evaporation of cyanoacrylate. It can be partially corrected by polishing. But, you yourself understand that you won't be able to achieve the factory result. It will still be a little "muddied". Not critical, but still. Especially when shooting against light.
            Sincerely.

            Hello everyone, I want to tell you how I restored my Leapers 3 * 9 * 32 optics (I promised for a long time) after the crosshair broke and the lens fell out, it was like this:

            It was in the evening ... .. decided to shoot, placed a beer can at a distance of about 50 meters, fired 10-15 shots, and then he began to notice that the horizontal line of the crosshair (left half) began to bend, what was the matter immediately did not understand, but after several shots, this strip completely fell off, and the right half began to bend, just like the left, well, after a couple of dozen, it also fell off. I did not worry too much, since the vertical ones remained standing as they were, and it was possible to aim without the horizontal ones. I read the forums for the repair of optics, but I did not find anything worthwhile, asked in the gun shop whether they would undertake to restore the crosshair, which was refused, they said “it's easier to buy a new sight” (then I realized that they were wrong)

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            Some time passed and I decided to shoot again, this time everything became more interesting, having probably made a couple of three shots I realized that I was smearing a lot, well, I think the setting miraculously got lost, but it was not there, adjusting the sight did not understand what was happening to him, how no matter how hard I tried, the rifle fired to the right with each shot, and finally the horizontal adjustment rested (there is nowhere to turn it further)…. what do I think for such a garbage!…. And at the same time I continue to shoot and watch how I smear more and more ... but suddenly the picture in the optics completely disappeared, as if you were looking into the dull glass with a huge distortion, and inside the sight itself there was a glass clanging, so I think it happened, what so much about conversations on the forums - the lens fell out.

            I decided to postpone this optics until better times, and those times came on vacation, the weather was bad, it was pouring rain, and so I decided to disassemble the optics - there was nothing to lose.

            Since I had no particular idea about the device (but had experience in repairing binoculars), I simply began to unscrew the locking screws, the first countersunk at the very edge of the case

            (during assembly, I replaced it with a normal screw with a cap, for ease of assembly - disassembly),

            lens barrel gave in to twisting

            In front of me was the view of a broken crosshair, (in the photo it was already restored as the photo was taken later) it is installed on the block of wrapping lenses, in order to pull out this block, you need to unscrew the persistent nut

            (or a washer or a ring, I don't know how it is called correctly) and a screw on the multiplicity adjustment,

            then move this same adjustment forward,

            and we open a slot in the case through which with a little effort we push out the lens unit, just one of which is just lying around in the optics case,

            Lens, ring - washer and nut with external thread

            the tongue also falls out of the body

            which serves as a spring for the lens unit, during vertical and horizontal adjustments (when assembling, you need to manage to put it in place in the groove)

            This is how it should stand when assembling

            Having unscrewed the thrust ring, I insert the lens in its place,

            (the lens fits, then a ring that serves as a washer so as not to damage the linz when screwing in), but then a riddle, since the lens is unevenly convex, it needs to be installed correctly, it was checked by this method, put it on, looked everything together, the image is unclear, again disassembled, turned it over, put it together - now everything seems to be fine

            and again I disassemble it in order to figure out what to do with the crosshairs.

            What to make a crosshair from? And how to fix it, well, after scratching the turnip a little, and it could not do without 100 grams ... I figured out, in the old case of the crosshair (it is apparently made of brass) to drill holes in order to stretch the thread,

            I took the thinnest drill that I had - 0.8 mm and carefully trying to observe equally opposite sides I make holes, (the first time I did not succeed)

            Then, as a test, I decided to pull through the holes the thinnest thread that I could find in the sewing kit, I collected it - horror !! It looked as if the crosshair was made of ropes)))

            Disassemble again…. I decided to try a line for winter fishing, I don’t remember exactly the cross section, in my opinion it is 0.2mm, I hold out,

            I tie, collect, look - again garbage, the thickness of the crosshair is even more or less tolerable, but the fact that it turned out not even irritated me, I dismantle it again, since the holes are larger than the fishing line stretched in them, it is worth paying attention to this gap a little experimenting nevertheless found how to optimally tie the fishing line so that the crosshair is as even and centered as possible,

            collected the whole thing once again, (probably already I can do it with my eyes closed)

            mounted on a rifle, shot at 40 meters ... and breathed a sigh of relief.))

            I apologize for the quality of the photo, my Nokia simply cannot be better.

            I hope the article will be useful for novice scopes masters, by the way, as I understood the device is the same for everyone, just for curiosity I took apart my BSA Deerhunter 8-32 × 44 AO Mil-Dot and it turned out to be a one-to-one design, only the sizes of the lenses are different, if someone has something there will be questions I will try to answer them, do not throw out the broken optics, it can still live and will be useful to you, good luck to everyone in the repair!

            All-Russian Society of fans of pneumatic weapons

            Good day.
            So I decided to write off for the good of the case how I changed the aiming reticle, maybe this material will be useful to someone!
            This sight was equipped with the Gamo shadow RSV I bought, as expected, I immediately took it off and installed Vomzik for myself, but it so happened that my Vomzik had a factory defect and I had to send it to the factory for replacement (by the way, it was changed without problems), but while there were transfers and other troubles, I set myself a Gamo sight. he withstood me somewhere around 500 shots, after which the aiming reticle turned and then completely ripped

            author, well done!
            the results of the test are very interesting and useful!
            respect.

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            Shl. how is the blonde? imagined how you ripped out a lock of hair and ran away and slipped the patstol.

            1000 shots sight works like a clock.

            There are also considerations about the survivability of the native mesh, and so, when it broke, along with this, it also broke.Accordingly, such a sight, in my opinion, must be disassembled and fixed before use, the reticle, perhaps it will live longer!

            500 shot. I made a new mesh from a Kevlar thread pulled from a twisted pair. It turned out to be a very thin neat mesh that costs more than

            Cherepovez

            • Cherepovez
            • Messages: 5446
            • Registration: 09/18/2008
            • Location: Cherepovets
            • Arsenal: WEIHRAUCH-97k S.E.
              LEAPERS 4-16 * 50 (SCP-416AOMDLTS)

            BENJAMIN MARAUDER BP 2263
            V.O. Sagittarius 10-40 * 56 FFP

            Cherepovez

            • Cherepovez
            • Messages: 5446
            • Registration: 09/18/2008
            • Location: Cherepovets
            • Arsenal: WEIHRAUCH-97k S.E.
              LEAPERS 4-16 * 50 (SCP-416AOMDLTS)

            BENJAMIN MARAUDER BP 2263
            V.O. Sagittarius 10-40 * 56 FFP

            romario

            • romario
            • Posts: 683
            • Registration: 05/14/2009
            • Location: Moscow VAO
            • Arsenal: Di-350 k.5.5. Di-31.

            more than a year the flight is normal. but I have a cartoon without recoil - with a self-opener

            I glued my hair with hair gel for a long time, everything is ok and nothing sags.

            PS: the upper cross-mesh (to compare the thickness) those below the hair - the drum corrections were not enough down (Attachments 1.JPG (20.59 Kb) 2.JPG (21.95 Kb)

            Why didn't you like the author's method? I don't advise you to insert glass, especially not to use a cassette holder.

            It is best to entrust the repair of the optical sight to a specialist, but if there is none nearby, we take matters into our own hands. In general terms, this article will help you understand the structure of optical sights, learn how to disassemble them and carry out the simplest repair work. Stock up on patience and attentiveness - we are immersed in the precise world of optics.

            Optical sight device

            Before we climb into the insides of the optical sight, let's figure out its technical structure. The sight consists of the following components:

            Before disassembling the scope, make sure you have the necessary tools and “accessories”. You will need:

            1. repair kit (set of flat screwdrivers);
            2. inexpensive transparent sealant (solvent free);
            3. cotton swabs;
            4. a clean cotton rag;
            5. jars (for storing small bolts);
            6. flashlight.

            As an example, consider the disassembly of the VOMZ-P model. You will be faced with the following configuration:

            1. lens;
            2. eyepiece;
            3. lever;
            4. screw;
            5. lid;
            6. net;
            7. angular scale of lateral corrections;
            8. lens wrapping system;
            9. setting ring;
            10. aiming angle scale.

            First you have to unscrew the lenses (back / front). The adjusting drums are screwed in until they stop (hour hand), then they are unscrewed together with the pressure washers. Then, in turn, the push and lock bolts are unscrewed. Half the pipe is unscrewed. The cassette containing the adjustment lens is gently extruded.

            The lens-reversing system is localized in the remaining segment of the tube. If desired, it is easy to unscrew it - the system is locked by one microbolt.

            The structure is assembled in reverse order. Pay attention to the smudged lenses - they should not be touched with fingers. The lenses are wiped with one-way movements (zero pressure).

            Now is the time to study the fastening of the base units of the telescopic sight. Please note that this is a fragile device, so you need to disassemble it with utmost care. He starts to mess around after about one and a half thousand shots. To prevent future problems, tighten the mounting screws, watch out for horizontal guidance.

            This video explains how the telescopic sight works and how to repair it (model Leapers 3-9 × 40):
            

            Lenses for hunting weapons have a large diameter, designed for shooting at short distances (150-200 meters). Hunting optics have many rubbing surfaces that wear out over time. Backlash, mechanical displacements and optical parallaxes appear.

            Optical sight lens diagram

            The lenses are attached with a sealant. Having disassembled the scope according to our instructions, you reach the ring nut holding the crosspiece. Further, the procedure is as follows:

            1. squeezing out the cassette (do not lose the pressure spring);
            2. unscrewing the front nut, lens and guide screws (2 pcs.);
            3. removing the adjustment lenses from the inner cylinder (this must be done carefully, without giving the cylinder a vertical position);
            4. memorizing the location of the lenses;
            5. repair.

            If the retaining ring is unscrewed at the trim lens (more often the front one), the thread will have to be lubricated with a sealant.After waiting for drying, assemble the entire structure in the reverse order.

            In the course of repair actions, you will inevitably come across a pressure spring, which you need not only to save, but also to make sure its functionality.

            The loosened screws and nuts (if they do not twist well) should be placed on a sealant. Now the repaired structure, together with the spring, must be pushed back into the pipe - this is a rather time-consuming process. One end of the spring should end with teeth, the other should be completely smooth.

            If necessary (the presence of chipping) the second end of the spring must be sanded. The spring is installed in the central part of the sight - between the holes for the adjustment drums. The pipe is pushed onto the cassette with the assembled lenses, while the spring must be held through the holes.

            Not all parts and assemblies of an optical sight need lubrication. And even more precisely - only rings need it. Getting grease on the lens surface is highly undesirable. For the lubrication procedure you will need:

            • alignment control rods;
            • abrasive lapping paste;
            • tool (torque screwdrivers, wrenches and levels);
            • lock for threaded connections.

            Aluminum, steel and titanium rings are used to mount the sight. After lubricating them, set the scope so that the nuts are on the other side of the receiver port and bolt handle.

            The video shows how to properly clean the telescopic sight: