Any technique is difficult to understand, but everything is disassembled into small and interesting details.
right now, in short, I read somewhere, you need hair, a cat's undercoat, you make a type of mini-bow where the hair is like a bowstring, for orientation, do it on a sheet of paper, fix it with a drop of second glue
From my experience: the best material for mesh is fiber from. I don’t know how to call it. let's say cable
headsets for telephone earphones. Not a metal vein, but the fiber that reinforces this vein. Kevlar, it seems. I will not approve, but very durable for its meager thickness. It stretches very well, does not sag and does not tear in the future. Its color does not affect the result in any way. I made from light. The cross turned out to be very thin, but clear. I glued it with a second glue, which is the most convenient to work with. However, it should be borne in mind that the scope can be assembled only a few days after gluing. Otherwise, the lenses will become cloudy due to evaporation of cyanoacrylate. It can be partially corrected by polishing. But, you yourself understand that it will not be possible to achieve the factory result. It will still be slightly “muddied”. Not critical, but still. Especially when shooting against light.
Sincerely.
Hello everyone, I want to tell you how I restored my Leapers 3 * 9 * 32 optics (I promised for a long time) after the crosshair broke and the lens fell out, it was like this:
It was in the evening ... .. decided to shoot, placed a beer can at a distance of about 50 meters, fired 10-15 shots, and then he began to notice that the horizontal line of the crosshair (left half) began to bend, what was the matter immediately did not understand, but after several shots, this strip completely fell off, and the right half began to curve, just like the left, but after a couple of dozen, it also fell off. I did not worry too much, since the vertical ones remained standing as they were and it was possible to aim without the horizontal ones. I read the forums for the repair of optics, but I did not find anything worthwhile, asked in the gun shop whether they would undertake to restore the crosshair, which was refused, they said “it's easier to buy a new sight” (then I realized that they were wrong)
Some time passed and I decided to shoot again, this time everything became more interesting, having probably made a couple of three shots I realized that I was smearing a lot, well, I think the setting miraculously got lost, but it was not there, adjusting the sight did not understand what was happening to him, how I would not try the rifle with each shot fired to the right, and finally the horizontal adjustment rested (there is nowhere to turn it further) ... what do I think for such a garbage! .... And at the same time I continue to shoot and watch how I smear more and more ... but suddenly the picture in the optics completely disappeared, as if you were looking into the dull glass with a huge distortion, and inside the sight itself there was a glass clanging, so I think it happened, what so much about conversations on the forums - the lens fell out.
I decided to postpone this optics until better times, and those times came on vacation, the weather was bad, it was raining, and so I decided to disassemble the optics - there was nothing to lose.
Since I had no particular idea about the device (but had experience in repairing binoculars), I simply began to unscrew the locking screws, the first countersunk at the very edge of the case
(during assembly, I replaced it with a normal screw with a cap, for ease of assembly - disassembly),
lens barrel gave in to twisting
In front of me was the view of a broken crosshair, (in the photo it was already restored as the photo was taken later) it is installed on the block of wrapping lenses, in order to pull out this block, you need to unscrew the persistent nut
(or a washer or a ring, I don't know how it is called correctly) and a screw on the multiplicity adjustment,
then move this same adjustment forward,
and we open a slot in the case through which with a little effort we push out the lens unit, just one of which is just lying around in the optics case,
Lens, ring - washer and nut with external thread
the tongue also falls out of the body
which serves as a spring for the lens unit, during vertical and horizontal adjustments (when assembling, you need to manage to put it in place in the groove)
This is how it should stand when assembling
Having unscrewed the thrust ring, I insert the lens in its place,
(the lens fits, then a ring that serves as a washer so as not to damage the linz when screwing in), but then a riddle, since the lens is unevenly convex, it needs to be installed correctly, it was checked by this method, put it on, looked everything together, the image is unclear, again disassembled, turned it over, put it together - now everything seems to be fine
and again I disassemble it in order to figure out what to do with the crosshairs.
What to make a crosshair from? And how to fix it, well, after scratching the turnip a little, and it could not do without 100 grams ... I figured out, in the old case of the crosshair (it is apparently made of brass) to drill holes in order to stretch the thread,
I took the thinnest drill that I had - 0.8 mm and carefully trying to observe equally opposite sides I make holes, (the first time I did not succeed)
Then, as a test, I decided to pull through the holes the thinnest thread that I could find in the sewing kit, I collected it - horror !! It looked as if the crosshair was made of ropes)))
Disassemble again…. I decided to try a line for winter fishing, I don’t remember exactly the cross section, in my opinion it is 0.2mm, I hold out,
I tie, collect, look - again garbage, the thickness of the crosshair is even more or less tolerable, but the fact that it turned out not even irritated me, I dismantle it again, since the holes are larger than the fishing line stretched in them, it is worth paying attention to this gap a little experimenting nevertheless found how to optimally tie the fishing line so that the crosshair is as even and centered as possible,
collected the whole thing once again, (probably already I can do it with my eyes closed)
mounted on a rifle, shot at 40 meters ... and breathed a sigh of relief.))
I apologize for the quality of the photo, my Nokia simply cannot be better.
I hope the article will be useful for novice scopes masters, by the way, as I understood the device is the same for everyone, just for curiosity I took apart my BSA Deerhunter 8-32 × 44 AO Mil-Dot and it turned out to be a one-to-one design, only the sizes of the lenses are different, if someone has something there will be questions I will try to answer them, do not throw out the broken optics, it can still live and will be useful to you, good luck to everyone in the repair!
All-Russian Society of fans of pneumatic weapons
Good day.
So I decided to write off for the good of the case how I changed the aiming reticle, maybe this material will be useful to someone!
This sight was equipped with the Gamo shadow RSV I bought, as expected, I immediately took it off and installed Vomzik for myself, but it so happened that my Vomzik had a factory defect and I had to send it to the factory for replacement (by the way, it was changed without problems), but while there were transfers and other troubles, I set myself a Gamo sight. he withstood me somewhere around 500 shots, after which the aiming reticle turned and then completely ripped
author, well done!
the results of the test are very interesting and useful!
respect.
Shl. how is the blonde? imagined how you ripped out a lock of hair and ran away and slipped the patstol.
1000 shots sight works like a clock.
There are also considerations about the survivability of the native mesh, and so, when it broke, along with this, it also broke.Accordingly, such a sight, in my opinion, must be disassembled and fixed before use, the reticle, perhaps it will live longer!
500 shot. I made a new mesh from a Kevlar thread pulled from a twisted pair. It turned out to be a very thin neat mesh that costs more than
Cherepovez
- Cherepovez
- Messages: 5446
- Registration: 09/18/2008
- Location: Cherepovets
- Arsenal: WEIHRAUCH-97k S.E.
LEAPERS 4-16 * 50 (SCP-416AOMDLTS)
BENJAMIN MARAUDER BP 2263
V.O. Sagittarius 10-40 * 56 FFP
Cherepovez
- Cherepovez
- Messages: 5446
- Registration: 09/18/2008
- Location: Cherepovets
- Arsenal: WEIHRAUCH-97k S.E.
LEAPERS 4-16 * 50 (SCP-416AOMDLTS)
BENJAMIN MARAUDER BP 2263
V.O. Sagittarius 10-40 * 56 FFP
romario
- romario
- Posts: 683
- Registration: 05/14/2009
- Location: Moscow VAO
- Arsenal: Di-350 k.5.5. Di-31.
more than a year the flight is normal. but I have a cartoon without recoil - with a self-opener
I glued my hair with hair gel for a long time, everything is ok and nothing sags.
PS: the upper cross-mesh (to compare the thickness) those below the hair - the drum corrections were not enough down (Attachments 1.JPG (20.59 Kb) 2.JPG (21.95 Kb)
Why didn't you like the author's method? I don't advise you to insert glass, especially not to use a cassette holder.
It is best to entrust the repair of the optical sight to a specialist, but if there is none nearby, we take matters into our own hands. In general terms, this article will help you understand the structure of optical sights, learn how to disassemble them and carry out the simplest repair work. Stock up on patience and attentiveness - we are immersed in the precise world of optics.
Optical sight device
Before we climb into the insides of the optical sight, let's figure out its technical structure. The sight consists of the following components:
Before disassembling the scope, make sure you have the necessary tools and “accessories”. You will need:
- repair kit (set of flat screwdrivers);
- inexpensive transparent sealant (solvent free);
- cotton swabs;
- a clean cotton rag;
- jars (for storing small bolts);
- flashlight.
As an example, consider the disassembly of the VOMZ-P model. You will be faced with the following configuration:
- lens;
- eyepiece;
- lever;
- screw;
- lid;
- net;
- angular scale of lateral corrections;
- lens wrapping system;
- setting ring;
- aiming angle scale.
First you have to unscrew the lenses (back / front). The adjusting drums are screwed in until they stop (hour hand), then they are unscrewed together with the pressure washers. Then, in turn, the push and lock bolts are unscrewed. Half the pipe is unscrewed. The cassette containing the adjustment lens is gently extruded.
The lens-reversing system is localized in the remaining segment of the tube. If desired, it is easy to unscrew it - the system is locked by one microbolt.
The structure is assembled in reverse order. Pay attention to the smudged lenses - they should not be touched with fingers. The lenses are wiped with one-way movements (zero pressure).
Now is the time to study the fastening of the base units of the telescopic sight. Please note that this is a fragile device, so you need to disassemble it with utmost care. He starts to mess around after about one and a half thousand shots. To prevent future problems, tighten the mounting screws, watch out for horizontal guidance.
This video explains how the telescopic sight works and how to repair it (model Leapers 3-9 × 40):
Lenses for hunting weapons have a large diameter, designed for shooting at short distances (150-200 meters). Hunting optics have many rubbing surfaces that wear out over time. Backlash, mechanical displacements and optical parallaxes appear.
Optical sight lens diagram
The lenses are attached with a sealant. Having disassembled the scope according to our instructions, you reach the ring nut holding the crosspiece. Further, the procedure is as follows:
- squeezing out the cassette (do not lose the pressure spring);
- unscrewing the front nut, lens and guide screws (2 pcs.);
- removing the adjustment lenses from the inner cylinder (this must be done carefully, without giving the cylinder a vertical position);
- memorizing the location of the lenses;
- repair.
If the retaining ring is unscrewed at the trim lens (more often the front one), the thread will have to be lubricated with a sealant.After waiting for drying, assemble the entire structure in the reverse order.
In the course of repair actions, you will inevitably come across a pressure spring, which you need not only to save, but also to make sure its functionality.
The loosened screws and nuts (if they do not twist well) should be placed on a sealant. Now the repaired structure, together with the spring, must be pushed back into the pipe - this is a rather time-consuming process. One end of the spring should end with teeth, the other should be completely smooth.
If necessary (the presence of chipping) the second end of the spring must be sanded. The spring is installed in the central part of the sight - between the holes for the adjustment drums. The pipe is pushed onto the cassette with the assembled lenses, while the spring must be held through the holes.
Not all parts and assemblies of an optical sight need lubrication. And even more precisely - only rings need it. Getting grease on the lens surface is highly undesirable. For the lubrication procedure you will need:
- alignment control rods;
- abrasive lapping paste;
- tool (torque screwdrivers, wrenches and levels);
- lock for threaded connections.
Aluminum, steel and titanium rings are used to mount the sight. After lubricating them, set the scope so that the nuts are on the other side of the receiver port and bolt handle.
The video shows how to properly clean the telescopic sight:
