Do-it-yourself leapers optical sight repair

In detail: do-it-yourself leapers optical sight repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

All-Russian Society of fans of pneumatic weapons

1. Remove the front part of the lens (fig. 1, pos. 1,2,3,4). To do this, take a small chisel, you can use a flat screwdriver and knock out the lens tube mounting ring (item 3, Fig. 1) in the direction from the lens towards the eyepiece.

Next, we unscrew the transverse screw that fixes the tube with the objective lens (item 2, Fig. 1). Mounting point (item 2, fig. 3). After that, unscrew the lens ring (item 1, fig. 3). We take out and put aside the spare parts (pos1,2,3,4, fig1). The lens is spinning!

7. Unscrew the ring with the lens (pos. 1, fig. 2), take out the pressure washer (pos. 2, fig. 2), unscrew the screws (pos. 4 and 5, fig. 2). After that, we remove the pipe (item 3, Fig. 2) and take out the cylinders with lenses of variable magnification (items 1 and 2, Fig. 5). Remember their position, as well as the position of the lenses inside! Do not be confused in places, then during assembly you will not end up with problems! In my case, the lenses were unwound in both cylinders.

This completes the disassembly. Now, in order for the sight to work for a long time and properly, you need to firmly fix all the lenses in the sight (6 pieces), excluding their unwinding with a powerful recoil. On the forums, they wrote that for this, most use a blue thread lock. I didn’t find the retainer, so I decided to use epoxy glue, which I don’t regret! Figure 6 shows offal of the first cylinder. The retaining ring (pos. 4, fig. 6) had sharp burrs, cleaned out with a zero. Be sure to check the contact points of the retaining rings with the lenses. They must be smooth, without sharp protrusions, otherwise, during subsequent use, you risk getting the lenses chipped. There are many photos of pokotsan optics in the internet for clarity.

Video (click to play).

8. The hold-down spring seemed to me a kind of soft, therefore, for complete confidence, I decided to "freeze" the sight (Fig. 9). I did so. At an angle of 45 degrees. I drilled a through hole with a drill at 3. Then I cut the thread with a sword at 4. Now you can tighten the screw 4, which will tighten the inner pressure spring. I highly recommend it to everyone! Further operation showed that after zeroing in and screwing in the screw, the STP does not go anywhere! Even after I removed the sight from the crown, then put it back in place, the STP did not change!

Day - two need to let the glue dry. While the adhesive is drying, carefully examine the reticle ring (key 7, figure 2). After hard soaking in acetone, my sighting mark almost peeled off from the ring. Sealed with epoxy. BUT! The cross must be very precisely in the center of the ring (actually, in the center of the optical axis)! Otherwise, when you change the multiplicity, the STF will change. I glued and aligned the cross by eye, when I change the magnification from 3 to 9, the STP takes 2 hours, 1.5 cm to 30m.

After drying, it remains to grease the thread on the ring with the aiming mark with glue and screw it to the inner tube (Fig. Do not forget to set the cross in accordance with the correction drums! We assemble the lens, lubricating it where necessary with the above-mentioned grease. Put in place the illumination drum. It turned out that the freezing screw does not prevent the drum from spinning at all, so the illumination could also be restored. The sight is ready! When mounted on a high bracket, the screw does not interfere at all.

We aim, adjust the correction drums. To date, the shooting has amounted to about 500 bullets. The sight is just super! Nothing floats or crawls, it works like a watch!
Here are a couple of photos from the shooting in the country. Distance 25m, bullets Gamo Match and JSB Exact. For a beginner shooter, I think not bad. The repair was a success!

It is best to entrust the repair of the optical sight to a specialist, but if there is none nearby, we take matters into our own hands. In general terms, this article will help you understand the structure of optical sights, learn how to disassemble them and carry out the simplest repair work. Stock up on patience and attentiveness - we are immersed in the precise world of optics.

Optical sight device

Before we climb into the insides of the optical sight, let's figure out its technical structure. The sight consists of the following components:

Before disassembling the scope, make sure you have the necessary tools and “accessories”. You will need:

repair kit (set of flat screwdrivers);
inexpensive transparent sealant (solvent free);
cotton swabs;
a clean cotton rag;
jars (for storing small bolts);
flashlight.

As an example, consider the disassembly of the VOMZ-P model. You will be faced with the following configuration:

lens;
eyepiece;
lever;
screw;
lid;
net;
angular scale of lateral corrections;
lens wrapping system;
setting ring;
aiming angle scale.

First you have to unscrew the lenses (back / front). The adjusting drums are screwed in until they stop (hour hand), then they are unscrewed together with the pressure washers. Then, in turn, the push and lock bolts are unscrewed. Half the pipe is unscrewed. The cassette containing the adjustment lens is gently extruded.

The lens-reversing system is localized in the remaining segment of the tube. If desired, it is easy to unscrew it - the system is locked by one microbolt.

The structure is assembled in reverse order. Pay attention to the smudged lenses - they should not be touched with fingers. The lenses are wiped with one-way movements (zero pressure).

Now is the time to study the fastening of the base units of the telescopic sight. Please note that this is a fragile device, so you need to disassemble it with utmost care. He starts to mess around after about one and a half thousand shots. To prevent future problems, tighten the mounting screws, watch out for horizontal guidance.

This video explains how the telescopic sight works and how to repair it (model Leapers 3-9 × 40):

Lenses for hunting weapons have a large diameter, designed for shooting at short distances (150-200 meters). Hunting optics have many rubbing surfaces that wear out over time. Backlash, mechanical displacements and optical parallaxes appear.

Optical sight lens diagram

The lenses are attached with a sealant. Having disassembled the scope according to our instructions, you reach the ring nut holding the crosspiece. Further, the procedure is as follows:

squeezing out the cassette (do not lose the pressure spring);
unscrewing the front nut, lens and guide screws (2 pcs.);
removing the adjustment lenses from the inner cylinder (this must be done carefully, without giving the cylinder a vertical position);
memorizing the location of the lenses;
repair.

If the retaining ring is unscrewed at the trim lens (more often the front one), the thread will have to be lubricated with a sealant. After waiting for drying, assemble the entire structure in the reverse order.

In the course of repair actions, you will inevitably come across a pressure spring, which you need not only to save, but also to make sure of its functionality.

Unscrewed screws and nuts (if they do not twist well) should be placed on a sealant. Now the repaired structure together with the spring must be pushed back into the pipe - this is a rather laborious process. One end of the spring should end with teeth, the other should be completely smooth.

If necessary (the presence of chipping) the second end of the spring must be sanded. The spring is installed in the central part of the sight - between the holes for the adjustment drums. The pipe is pushed onto the cassette with the assembled lenses, while the spring must be held through the holes.

Not all parts and assemblies of an optical sight need lubrication. And even more precisely - only rings need it. Getting grease on the lens surface is highly undesirable. For the lubrication procedure you will need:

alignment control rods;
abrasive lapping paste;
tool (torque screwdrivers, wrenches and levels);
lock for threaded connections.

Aluminum, steel and titanium rings are used to mount the sight. After lubricating them, set the scope so that the nuts are on the other side of the receiver port and bolt handle.

The video shows how to properly clean the telescopic sight:

The basis of the reticle glow is an LED lamp. It is connected to the battery, but does not receive energy directly, but through the stabilizer. With the check of the stabilizer and you need to start the repair activity.Having disassembled the microscopic power supply, take a closer look at the ballast resistor (capacitor). If the resistor is burnt out, it must be replaced. Sometimes the diodes in the rectifier also burn out - they should also be checked. A third potential problem is low impedance current limiting resistors.If the LED is of Asian origin, it means that a primitive Chinese capacitor has burned out. Replace it with a new one and live in peace.For instructions on how to aim a telescopic sight on an air rifle, follow this link. The choice of distance and target for sighting.In modern optics, a luminous aiming mark with brightness control is used. The backlight of the stamp should turn off automatically after a certain time. This saves battery power as many shooters forget to disconnect the battery. In general, aiming marks are of the following types:The aiming mark tends to shift due to recoil - this should not be allowed. Paradox: the mobility of the aiming mark is encouraged when the rifle is zeroed in. The mark is adjusted by turning the drum (you need to focus on the number of clicks). The offset scale varies depending on the scope model and manufacturer.Having found a displacement of the mark, it is worth investigating the mount of the scope - have you done everything correctly? Correct mounting is a guarantee of a long service life of your aiming system. It is not worth saving by purchasing cheap mounts - this is self-deception, leading to a loss of accuracy.The process of converging the mechanical and optical axes"Zeroing" the sight (adjustment) Is the process of converging the mechanical and optical axes. The need for adjustment arises after purchasing a new sight - the shooter is not yet sure of the correctness of the range set by the correction drums. The adjustment sequence is as follows:

The vertical correction drum is turned down all the way, and the horizontal drum - all the way to the left.

Vertical and horizontal drums click ("up" and "right", respectively). In this case, it is necessary to count the number of clicks over the entire range.

To reduce the frequency of repair work, protect your scope from bad weather - heat, humidity and direct sunlight. Cover the lenses with caps, avoid mechanical damage and contact with the lenses of harmful substances (lubricants, alcohol solutions). Check the internal mountings periodically (every 1000-1500 shots). Have a good hunting!Everything about hunting and fishing in the Republic of Belarus - forums prof3ss0r Dec 10, 2013 12:42 pmI have never seen such a topic, so I will be the first to hike. I was once engaged in the repair of photo-optics very thoroughly, so the simplest design of optical sights is like two fingers for me.
Plus, I learned a lot of nuances from a friend who worked at BelOMO (sort of), in short, he assembled sights at the factory.
And if many people understand rifles well, they understand about sights only by hearsay. So I decided on the example of one work, to show “what-to-what”.So we are talking about a visually similar series of scopes - these are BSA, NIKON, and all that look like our patient 8-32x. Our experimental BSA 8-32x44:Pros of the series: Very light and high-quality optics, no chromatic aberrations, absolutely flat picture and very contrast (the Hawke sidewinder 6-24 × 56 picture is worse! I personally checked it and was amazed), very sharp parallax - at maximum magnification you can measure the distance up to up to centimeters probably Image - DIY leapers optical sight repair

, the declared multiplicity corresponds to the actual! - What is actually a very rare occurrence even for expensive scopes, the reticle is not thick as on all Chinese, it is approximately comparable to the reticle on Deltas of the middle price range.
In short, it is these Chinese who are made from the "waste" of the production of very high-quality brothers

, well, the most delicious price is only $ 100-150, depending on where to get it.

cons of the series: Chinese assembly.

The components are gorgeous, but the build spoils everything. Lenses can wobble on a new one, and corrections are introduced only from half of the entire range, because the return spring is generally incorrectly matched to the overall design. "Soft" clicks of the drums (this is so.).

As you can see, the pluses are very tempting, but they are nothing if the sight “does not work” because it is badly assembled. The coolest thing is that it's all solvable! Let's go!

A bit of history: I got this sight in a set, from a Minsk comrade when exchanging rifles. Later, the sight was sold to Alcoholic, but during the shooting it turned out that the amendments were not “introduced” at all!
Before selling it, I naturally checked and shot it, so there was no limit to surprise, but naturally I immediately took it back and returned the money, because I know the main drawback of the whole series - the return spring.

We start disassembly:
You can unscrew the parallax adjustment drum plug with your fingers, but if it doesn't unscrew, we spoil it with pliers, there is no way out. I twisted it off with my fingers.

With tweezers, compasses, or any improvised pribluda, we embroider the retainer ring

Hello everyone, I want to tell you how I restored my Leapers 3 * 9 * 32 optics (I promised for a long time) after the crosshair broke and the lens fell out, it was like this:

It was in the evening ... .. decided to shoot, placed a beer can at a distance of about 50 meters, fired 10-15 shots, and then he began to notice that the horizontal line of the crosshair (left half) began to bend, what was the matter immediately did not understand, but after several shots, this strip completely fell off, and the right half began to bend, just like the left, well, after a couple of dozen, it also fell off. I did not worry too much, since the vertical ones remained standing as they were, and it was possible to aim without the horizontal ones. I read the forums for the repair of optics, but I did not find anything worthwhile, asked in the gun shop whether they would undertake to restore the crosshair, which was refused, they said “it's easier to buy a new sight” (then I realized that they were wrong)

Some time passed and I decided to shoot again, this time everything became more interesting, having probably made a couple of three shots I realized that I was smearing a lot, well, I think the setting miraculously got lost, but it was not there, adjusting the sight did not understand what was happening to him, how no matter how hard I tried, the rifle fired to the right with each shot, and finally the horizontal adjustment rested (there is nowhere to turn it further)…. what do I think for such a garbage!….And at the same time I continue to shoot and watch how I smear more and more ... but suddenly the picture in the optics completely disappeared, as if you were looking into the dull glass with a huge distortion, and inside the sight itself there was a glass clanging, so I think it happened, what so much about conversations on the forums - the lens fell out.

I decided to postpone this optics until better times, and those times came on vacation, the weather was bad, it was pouring rain, and so I decided to disassemble the optics - there was nothing to lose.

Since I had no particular idea about the device (but had experience in repairing binoculars), I simply began to unscrew the locking screws, the first countersunk at the very edge of the case

(during assembly, I replaced it with a normal screw with a cap, for ease of assembly - disassembly),

lens barrel gave in to twisting

A broken crosshair opened in front of me, (in the photo it was already restored as the photo was taken later) it is installed on the block of wrapping lenses, in order to pull out this block, it is necessary to unscrew the persistent nut

(or a washer or a ring, I don't know how it is called correctly) and a screw on the multiplicity adjustment,

then move this same adjustment forward,

and we open a slot in the case through which with a little effort we push out the lens unit, just one of which is just lying around in the optics case,

Lens, ring - washer and nut with external thread

the tongue also falls out of the body

which serves as a spring for the lens unit, during vertical and horizontal adjustments (when assembling, you need to manage to put it in place in the groove)

This is how it should stand when assembling

Having unscrewed the thrust ring, I insert the lens in its place,

(the lens fits, then a ring that serves as a washer so as not to damage the linz when screwing in), but then a riddle, since the lens is unevenly convex, it needs to be installed correctly, it was checked by this method, put it on, looked everything together, the image is unclear, again disassembled, turned it over, put it together - now everything seems to be fine

and again I disassemble it in order to figure out what to do with the crosshairs.

What to make a crosshair from? And how to fix it, well, after scratching his turnip a little, and not without 100 grams ... I figured out, in the old case of the crosshair (it is apparently made of brass) to drill holes in order to stretch the thread,

I took the thinnest drill that I had - 0.8 mm and carefully trying to observe equally opposite sides I make holes, (it was not possible the first time)

Then, as a test, I decided to pull through the holes the thinnest thread that I could find in the sewing kit, I collected it - horror !! It looked as if the crosshair was made of ropes)))

Disassemble again…. I decided to try a line for winter fishing, I don’t remember exactly the cross section, in my opinion it is 0.2mm, I hold out,

I tie, collect, look - again garbage, the thickness of the crosshair is even more or less tolerable, but the fact that it turned out not even irritated me, I dismantle it again, since the holes are larger than the fishing line stretched in them, it is worth paying attention to this gap a little experimenting nevertheless found how to optimally tie the fishing line so that the crosshair is as even and centered as possible,

collected the whole thing once again, (probably already I can do it with my eyes closed)

mounted on a rifle, shot at 40 meters ... and breathed a sigh of relief.))

I apologize for the quality of the photo, my Nokia simply cannot be better.

I hope the article will be useful for novice scopes masters, by the way, as I understood the device is the same for everyone, just for curiosity I took apart my BSA Deerhunter 8-32 × 44 AO Mil-Dot and it turned out to be a one-to-one design, only the sizes of the lenses are different, if someone has something there will be questions I will try to answer them, do not throw out the broken optics, it can still live and will be useful to you, good luck to everyone in the repair!

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Download and watch an ocean of endless video in high quality.Everything is free and without registration!

There is a two-way groove in the tube of the turning system. In the grooves of this groove, the sliders move, changing the position of the lenses of the turning system, i.e. keep focus so that the image remains sharp at all times.
To tell a long time and it is incomprehensible without opening the optics.
So, you need to disassemble the OP and return the sliders to the slots! It is not easy to do this, but it is possible!

All signs of the described malfunction are evident:
- sharpness only in one position of the multiplicity control.

The reversing system has two groups of moving lenses. So one of the gluing of the two lenses got stuck * (hung) ..

A typical failure of all inexpensive telescopic sights, which includes HAKO.

Nikolai Petrovich, I am aware of these subtleties, this is far from the first refurbished sight.

All signs of the described malfunction are evident:
- sharpness only in one position of the multiplicity control .. In this case, everything is far from so simple. When you change the magnification from 2.5 to 4, the sharpness remains normal, and with further change, from 4x to 8x, the sharpness disappears, but returns by adjusting the diopters.
None of the lenses seemed to stick, I checked, although I won't swear to it.

None of the lenses seemed to stick, I checked, although I won't swear to it.
There are no miracles in optics, especially in telescopic OPs ..

- it is necessary to disassemble and assemble correctly, check focusing and make adjustments ..
In general, you can handle it if you have already done a similar job. At first glance, it is difficult, but the hands and head do. IMHO,

If the revolving system is assembled correctly and the two-way system of shifting the lenses of the revolving system is not broken, then the conversation will be different.

Check the parallax if you need to retune 100 meters.
By the method from simple to complex, you will find the reason .. Probably screwed up with lenses.

Petrovich. Rather, everything is simpler, probably they unscrewed the objective lens and knocked down the focus distance. On inexpensive, others it was not possible to repair this is a common reason. There, the distance is adjusted by moving the lens in the objective.
Well, great-alna! Tell Petrovich, let him study 🙂

So who did he write “” to check the offset from PARALAX? ” The same thing!
What is expensive, what is cheap, the principle of construction and operation is SIMILAR!

Oleg, thanks for the advice, although I won't have to use it.

It's not the gods who burn the pots .. The author of the topic will figure it out himself ..

Message Aleksey74 "26 Feb 2010, 11:54.

Repair of the optical sight VOMZ-P
Sooner or later, a normal Russian person has a desire to disassemble this optical device and look into his soul, for the purpose of self-complacency - HE IS NOT the cause of all troubles when shooting. I hasten to upset you! In 99% of cases, NOT HE.
I also had such a desire. After two days of unsuccessfully surfing the net, I could not find a FULL description of the device and disassembly of this very common sight.
And constantly coming across recommendations to UNSASSEMBLE optics caused me only an evil smile)))).
This sight is designed according to the principle “the simpler, the more reliable”.
That is, there is practically nothing to break there. It is possible in RARE cases that the lens with a mesh applied from the sleeve to which it is firmly glued is unstuck, it is also possible that the pressure spring of the lens may be displaced (which is very unlikely), it is possible for a loosening on the thread (screwed tightly and glued at the factory) of the lens-reversing system (a small tube inside with a set of lenses Everything: Everything else is treated "superficially" indiscriminately, such as unscrewing the lenses, loosening the pressure washers-drums (under the adjusting drums), biting and loosening the adjusting drums.

For repair you will need:
1) a set of flat screwdrivers from the kit (I have a kit for repairing cell phones, it costs 200 rubles)
2) CLEAN-white (it is better to wash at all) HBshnaya cloth, cotton swabs.
3) Inexpensive (solvent-free) transparent sealant.
4) A flashlight is desirable, to shine in a tube. (photo1)
5) Jars for small bolts (required)
Sight device:
1 - lens; 2-handle; 3 - eyepiece; 4 - cover; 5 - screw; 6-grid;
7-lens reversing system; 8 - scale of angles of lateral corrections;
9 - scale of aiming angles; 10 - adjusting ring. (FIG1)

Installation, sighting, adjustment of the optical sight Leapers

Sight installation
Zeroing the sight
Parallax detuning and focusing
Installing an anti-glare hood (optional)
Reticle illumination adjustment (only for models with advanced reticle)
Sight care and maintenance
Limited Lifetime Manufacturer's Warranty
pdf file: Installation, sighting, adjustment of the Leapers optical sight

CAREFULLY : Before installing the scope, be sure to check that your the rifle is UNLOADED, NOT STANDING ON THE BATTLE PLUG and, if possible, fused. Always observe safety precautions when handling weapons.

1. Make sure you have our high quality rings. Buying cheap rings is only a semblance of savings that can degrade the capabilities of your shooting system.

2. Install the ring bases on the rifle mountings.

3. Remove the upper half rings and place the scope on the open lower half rings of the fixed bases. Replace the top half rings and tighten the screws firmly with your fingers.

4. Hold the rifle to your shoulder in your natural shooting stance. Adjust the exit pupil distance to see the entire field of view through the scope.

5. Having found the best exit pupil distance, rotate the scope so that the vertical crosshairs of the reticle are perpendicular to the rifle.

6. Tighten the screws on the rings to secure the scope firmly.

ATTENTION: Do not over-tighten the screws to avoid damaging the scope body.

7. The scope is now ready for zeroing.

ATTENTION! Be sure to loosen the adjustment drum lock screws before making adjustments. Otherwise, you could rip off the threads! Fixation of the drums of corrections with a hexagon must be done ONLY by first pressing the drum against the pipe with your fingers and making sure that the drum has entered the technological grooves for fixing! Otherwise, you could rip off the threads! The aim of sighting is to match the aiming point through the scope with the point of impact of the bullet fired from your rifle.

Set up the target at 91 meters (100 yards). For air gun scopes, set the target 32 meters (35 yards) away.

It will be better if you use a bipod, sandbag or other support to stabilize the rifle. Set the maximum magnification on the scope, aim at the center of the target and fire a sighting shot in compliance with safety regulations.

If the point of impact of the bullet exactly coincides with the center of the target, the sight can be considered aimed. Otherwise, you will have to adjust the scope with the drums. vertical and / or horizontal correction as follows:

Vertical Correction - Unscrew the protective cap on the top drum. Loosen the locking screw with the special hex wrench supplied with the scope. Turn the adjusting wheel with your fingers to make the required correction. One click in any direction will move the point of impact by approximately 7 mm on a target 91 m away. Tighten the locking screw. Replace the protective cap.

Horizontal Adjustment - Unscrew the protective cap on the right drum. Loosen the locking screw with the special hex wrench supplied with the scope.

Turn the adjusting wheel with your fingers to make the required correction. One click in any direction will shift the point of impact by approximately 7 mm on a target 91 m away.Tighten the locking screw. Replace the protective cap.

After making the necessary vertical and horizontal adjustments, fire the next sighting shot in a safe manner. Continue adjusting the scope and firing sighting shots until the bullets hit the center of the target when the crosshairs of the reticle are aimed at the center of the target. This can be tedious, but essential for marksmanship.

Note: Each click of the adjustment moves the point of impact by the distances shown in the following table.

The amount of displacement in mm at one click of the vertical / horizontal correction for models with a click price of 1/4 MOA

Do-it-yourself repair of the Lipers 4x32 mini-AO optical sight.

It's a pity the current will sweat and the drums will be enough for a short time. And so the farm is what you need!

he hasn't been sweating for three years now. and I also remade one more sight - nikon 4x32 prostuff. and also does not sweat. and I don't really like to play drums. shot and no longer touch. occasionally I adjust it to the ammunition.

Cron first did not try to change. put the sight on the crappy bracket !!

I did it as in the video, only I did not disassemble the scope, so I cut it, I will shoot it on the weekend, I'll see what happened. THANKS for the idea. Only I do not advise you to blow into the scope, particles of saliva can get on the optics, it is better to use a vacuum cleaner or a pear.

but what about the injected nitrogen? how do you upload it back?

I agree. Live and learn. Everything is much simpler, but people are racking their brains) Thank you!

in the atmospheric air, 70 percent nitrogen. a loss of 30 percent is experienced. if you do everything in a dry and heated room and do not leave any extra holes, then everything will be fine.

Well, in principle, the idea is good

Rolex repair with pitchfork and ax

I became the owner of the 3-9-32 centr point sight, the same problem with the spring. I changed it with a coil spring and there were no problems, I took an oiler with a diameter of 10 mm instead of a self-point, sawed off the head with a ball, expanded the hole to 7 mm, picked up the spring and now everything is OK!

Everything is correct. the main thing is not afraid. you can always throw it away. and it will still serve.
good luck!

Optical instruments are assembled in sterile rooms! And you with your bare hands))

Zulu Ko61 My binoculars also somehow got lost, the prism came off. I glued it, but I broke the tightness, the dust settled and the image naturally deteriorated.

certainly. and the rooms are sterile, and the instrument is special. and trained specialists work.
and if the sight has floated, then you can throw it away and run after a new one.
that's exactly what I did. bought another. to be.
and then I did it.
and it turned out to be quite successful. the sight is working. is still alive.
Well, my room is clean enough.
good luck!

Repair mine. I'll pay you. It's a pity to throw it away, but I don't know how to tinker. My lipers with variable magnification also have a mesh jumps.

good day.
I just don't have time to repair. sometimes I can't even do what I planned for myself.
like this.

and what sight? and how many shots?

why is that?
what and how long have you used it and on what weapon?

if you don't throw it there. it won't be there.
I have no garbage there.
the sight still lives on. moved to air.

The spring that is worth a complete shit, I myself disassembled and corrected repeatedly and with your alteration can withstand any load

Thank you very much, very cool

The sight was constantly floating on pneumatics. Zadolbalsya aiming at. I made it according to your “recipe” and for a year nothing has gone astray. The amendments work clearly and obediently.

He messed up the sight, got dirt inside, it will fog up.

well, it does not hit the same.
and I shoot a lot of it. and rain and snow.
When I was reworking it, I also did not know whether it would work or not. it was an experiment.
the experiment was successful.
the main thing is not to be afraid.
are not afraid and do.
sometimes it works.
the second sight - nikon prostaff 4x32, also completely remade. and feels great too.
does not fog up and works great.

Zulu Ko61 16:21 Dirt is visible. You have broken the tightness of the device; in rainy weather, moisture will enter the device.

does not fog up. there is no dirt either. I shoot from it constantly. and you can see it in my video.

better take a look at this manul https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/56/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37100

This is a variable magnification scope. he has a slightly different device.
I don’t use them.
only permanent sights.
I looked at the material, thanks!

Thanks for the informative video. I bought myself a Lipers 4 * 16 * 50 on the TS platform for 30-06 cal. They say it keeps. Well, what if it’s possible to do this and do it with him?

Good day.
I did not make out such a sight. but I think that if you try it, it might work.
When I took mine apart, I was also not sure of a successful result.
happened.
good luck!

The manufacturer promised to fix the malfunction, but no better, I will unscrew the sight myself and do everything clumsy and according to the collective farm.

weapon tight clicks of amendments will wear out, I would rather advise a stop to the tube under the spring

Good day.
I touch little clicks. as I shot once and shoot. I make corrections only on the grid. army habit.

Video (click to play).

pneuma Crosman Venom with gas spring, included a sight, centr point 3-9-32, the same problem, one or two shots at 15 meters, bullets fly at the target, then tin begins (spread 10-25cm). because of what I changed the sight under warranty. but on the second sight, the same nonsense. then I bought a Veber 4 -16-50. it got better, but the result is not satisfactory. I will experiment)) according to your scheme, above the standard sight. if everything works out, then I will try and redo a big one. Zulu, does it make sense to put not one bolt with a spring, but two, against the adjusting bolts, according to the cross pattern?