The mattress is a soft bed, which can be with or without a frame. It can be of several types, but in everyday life only two are most often used - spring and stuffed. In our article, we will talk specifically about spring types, which, in turn, are divided into two types.
The first type is more common. It is inexpensive, therefore it is very popular. The second type has great capabilities, but it also costs more. In any case, this subject of discussion consists of a spring block or shock-absorbing parts, a rigid layer, a cover and a filler. The latter can be both soft and hard. As for the upholstery, it is better that it be made of natural fabric.
Products of this design can be found in any house or apartment. Many consider them obsolete, but this does not diminish their popularity in the least. And all because of the low cost. The mattress cushioning parts are made from a material such as hardened high carbon steel. They are connected to each other using a wire. The main disadvantage of this type of bed elements lies in the fact that they have extremely low orthopedic properties. This is because when you go to bed, not one spring responds, but all at once.
This type is distinguished by higher levels of comfort. Springs for them are made of the same steel, but their diameter is smaller and the number of turns is larger. These elements are often shaped like a cylinder. Sometimes their edges can be narrowed. The advantage of this type is that the springs are not fixed to each other. This improves the orthopedic effect. After all, each spring reacts to pressure independently of the others.
The quickest thing for innerspring mattresses is the outer sheathing. But the fillers for them are made of high quality materials that have a long service life. The average service life of a spring product is fifteen years. When it loses its functional parameters, then you should not immediately throw it away. It is not so difficult to bring the product to its proper form. There are several reasons why the mattress is in need of urgent restoration methods.
But this list can be expanded with a more scrupulous examination of this item. To repair a spring mattress with your own hands, there is no need for special knowledge and skills. You only need to carefully follow the advice of more experienced professionals.
The work of bringing an old mattress back to life can be divided into several main stages.
To return a worn product to its proper appearance, you must use the following materials and tools.
In the process of active use of the product, quite a lot of small debris, that is, dust, collects inside it. That is why experts recommend disassembling on the street. If this possibility is not considered, then you will need a vacuum cleaner. With its help, all surfaces of the spring product must be thoroughly cleaned.It is advisable to remove all furniture and carpets from the room in which the repair process will take place. As a last resort, cover everything in the room with oilcloth or similar material. Place the product on four sturdy benches with the decorative paneling at the bottom. This will allow you to approach the subject of repair from all sides. Pull all fasteners out of the mattress very carefully. After that, you need to remove the upholstery and the seal. The fabric that covers the springs must also be removed. Clean all elements with the utmost care.
You must free the springs from the straps. After that, you can start pulling the nails out of the base. It is them that manufacturers use to secure the straps. Now you need to bring all the spring elements to a vertical position. Be careful! All springs must be of the same height. All parts that are loose or come off altogether must be securely attached to the slats with nails. Note that if the mattress springs are attached with straps, then these straps must be removed. And the spring parts are fixed using nails.
In general, all straps in our facility must be disposed of. It will be better if you use regular slats instead. The latter should have a length equal to the width of the mattress. To fix them, you need to make preliminary markings on the body.
Before you get rid of the frame fastening tape, mark the places where the tape was placed on its surface. After that, you need to carefully remove the nails and remove the old straps. Now you need to prepare the slats of the desired size. Then, according to the markings made, you must carefully cut out the grooves for them. After that, the slats are very carefully nailed from both sides to the base. Then you can install the spring elements in their previous position. Fix them with studs if necessary. The latter are folded on both sides to ensure high fastening reliability.
When the springs are securely fixed to the frame, you can start strapping them. You need to drive nails against each row of springs. You need to fold them into hooks. At this stage it was the turn of the laces. It is with their help that the strapping will be carried out. First, start with a cross row. First, you must tie the outermost springs to the hooks. After that, tie the entire longitudinal row in the same way. In the process, the lace is also attached to the transverse laces. At the end of the process, you must strap diagonally. When the tying process is completely finished, you should bend the studs all the way down to the base.
Before starting the process of covering the mattress with lining, you must make sure that all important parts are installed correctly. When everything is checked, you can take up the sheathing. To do this, use a furniture stapler. Place gussets in the corners to provide additional protection. Then secure the rollers to the backing base. They can be made from the material used for the seal. To ensure reliability, the seal must be attached to the lining in several places at once. On top of all this, decorative fabric is pulled, which is firmly fixed using the same stapler. Remember to gently pull up the edges of the fabric to avoid holes or creases.
As for the orthopedic spring mattress, resting on it is not only comfortable, but also useful. But such a product also does not last forever and can wear out. But don't rush to buy a new mattress. It is possible that the old one can still be repaired. The repair of the orthopedic product is carried out in the same way as for the usual one.
That's all. A product updated and repaired in this way will serve you for many more years. The process of repairing a mattress does not require a lot of money from you.But the acquisition of a new one can cost you a pretty penny.
It is clear that one mattress is unlikely to be enough for you for a lifetime. Over time, he will still need repairs. But we note that the moment when there will be nowhere to go, you can postpone a very decent period. To do this, you need to use this piece of furniture with the utmost care. Try to avoid situations that could damage it.
If you carefully follow all these simple rules of operation, then your mattress will serve you for many years, and it will take a long time to repair it. This ensures that your sleep will be healthy and sound.
The article was prepared with the help of specialists from the "Sleep Laboratory".
VIDEO
If the old box-spring mattress on your bed is completely unusable, do not rush to throw it away - let's try to repair it , especially since repairing spring mattresses at home does not require any special skills and the presence of specialized and rare tools.
Classic mattresses are designed quite simply, so anyone who knows how to hold a hammer can repair them. The biggest challenge is tying the springs to keep them level and flat.
With our review, you will find out:
What is needed to carry out the repair;
How to prepare for the repair;
How to complete the bulk of the work.
There is nothing complicated here, so you can complete the repair in just 2-3 hours, saving money on repairs. And for those who want to make an orthopedic mattress with their own hands, there are detailed instructions on our website.
Nails 50-60 mm;
Strapping cord;
New upholstery;
Durable fabric for interior upholstery;
Padding material (lies between the insulating layer and the upholstery);
Wooden slats 20 mm thick and 60-100 mm wide;
Serviceable springs from another mattress.
The hardest part here is to find the springs from another mattress. , since it is more and more difficult to find them every year, since old mattresses are increasingly ending up in a landfill. Everything else is not a problem to find.
The next preparatory step is to disassemble the mattress. It must be placed with the base up and begin to remove the upholstery by removing the fastening brackets. If the fabric is old, then you just need to tear it off and throw it away, since the upholstery must be whole and strong. As soon as the upholstery is removed, we will see the spring blocks, between which dust has accumulated (we remember that such mattresses act like blacksmith's bellows).
We will remove dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner. We thoroughly vacuum the fabric, try to get between the springs, removing all dirt from there. Generally, DIY repair of a spring mattress is recommended on the street or in a non-residential ventilated area eg in a garage. So we get rid of the consequences of flying clouds of dust.
After we align all the springs, we you need to make sure that their tops form a flat surface - their height must be the same. If this is not the case, we throw out the deformed springs, replacing them with new ones, since the mattress should be flat, without deflections.
At the next stage of repairing a spring mattress, we need to re-tighten the springs. To do this, we stuff the slats on the wooden base, passing them along the perimeter of the sofa. We drive nails into the slats - one nail opposite each row (the nails should be driven in 2/3 of their length and slightly bent, since the cord will be tied to them).
First of all, we need to secure the transverse rows by passing each spring with a cord. During strapping make sure that the springs do not twist and do not rub against each other ... After that, we move on to the longitudinal rows, and complete the process with a diagonal strapping - now our mattress has a completely stable and even surface.
We cover the spring blocks with a dense and durable fabric, for example, a tarp or two layers of dermantine (burlap is also suitable, but it is rather difficult to get it). Next, we lay a layer of filler, and on top we lay a decorative layer of fabric (the one that was the topmost one). The final task is to nail the decorative layer to the wood base, keeping an eye on the tension of the material.
As we can see, repairing a spring mattress at home can be done by every man who is friendly with tools. Difficulties can only be caused by the non-standard structure of the mattress - for example, it may contain not only ordinary springs, but also "snakes" to which they are attached from the bottom side. It is more difficult to repair such mattresses, but it is impossible to give universal advice on repair - it requires an individual approach. If it was not possible to repair the mattress and there is not much money to replace it, you might think about purchasing an inexpensive inflatable mattress with an orthopedic effect.
The choice of tools depends on the cause of the damage. To replace the upholstery by hand, you only need glue and a matching fabric. If the integrity of the springs is broken, you will have to stock up on new parts. The main thing that will be needed in the overhaul process is new upholstery, a hammer, nails.
furniture stapler;
elastic cord;
filler (foam rollers);
decorative cladding;
lining (any breathable and durable fabric);
slats (7 x 2).
It is important to have pliers and wire handy when troubleshooting. All work is divided into several stages. First, the mattress is disassembled, then new springs are installed, strapping is made and at the end the product is sheathed (assembly).
The best place to carry out repairs is a barn or other non-residential premises. During the period of operation, dust and debris accumulate inside the product. Therefore, a good option is to use a vacuum cleaner when working.
First, the mattress is turned upside down. Position it to ensure a flat surface. To make it easy to approach the mattress from each side, it is placed on four stools. Next, they carefully release the product from the contents: remove the old nails, take out the paper clips with pliers, remove the decorative upholstery fabric and take out the soft rollers.
To properly clean the mattress from dirt, it is recommended to use a lint cloth and a vacuum cleaner. If you are renovating your home with your own, cover the furniture and carpets with oilcloth. Torn upholstery fabric will have to be replaced. The fabric separating the springs is also removed and thoroughly cleaned with a damp cloth. After the preliminary work, you can start inspecting the internal parts.
checking the serviceability of parts;
installation of the frame;
strapping of springs.
First, remove the cord connecting the springs, remove the nails from the frame. Then you need to inspect the springs and return to their original position. Broken parts are thrown away, new ones are installed. To do this, the springs are nailed to the slats with nails, which are folded inward. It is preliminarily recommended to make precise markings on the body of the product.
Important! To prevent the mattress from forming bumps, all springs are located strictly vertically (approximately on a line of 8 cm from the height of the frame).
individual springs are in special bags ... And in the usual, there are three ways of fastening:
using wooden slats. Sometimes it is enough just to hammer in a loose part with a hammer;
using fabric straps over wooden slats;
fabric belts. They endow the mattress with orthopedic properties.
If fabric belts were used in the manufacture of the mattress, you must cut out the wooden slats yourself. Elastic fabric belts are attached to them. The length of the slats must match the width of the mattress.
To replace the spring bag in orthopedic models, you will need an element with new springs. It is sewn in with a regular needle and strong thread.
First of all, you need to deal with the strapping of the transverse springs. Each spring is handled with a cord separately. Then they begin to tie the elements in the longitudinal direction. In order to be effective, they are fastened to the transverse ones.
Attention! Pay attention to the tension on the cord during work. It should not be too high - otherwise it will turn out that the springs are at a close distance from each other.
Finally, the springs are processed diagonally. The angle in relation to the previous strapping should be 45 degrees. At the end of these works, the nails left by the hooks are completely folded.
Then they take a sealant (foam rubber, synthetic winterizer). These rollers are placed on the lining in the selected places. This ensures a quality styling. From above, the mattress product should be covered with a decorative fabric, and the edges of the upholstery should be carefully tucked inward.
Remember! When fastening, the fabric must be positioned in the form of a scarf. This will protect the corners of the furniture.
Even high-quality mattresses need to be changed every 5-7 years, as over time, they will crumble and accumulate dust mites.
Tips will help to increase the product's lifespan.
allow children to jump on the mattress:
keep the mattress near heating appliances;
bend during transportation.
It is necessary to buy a mattress taking into account its own body weight. In the first 2-3 weeks after purchase, it is advised to turn the product over.
This is done like this: first you need to swap the head of the mattress and the place where the legs are located; then flip right side down. This will restore the original shape and orthopedic properties.
Posted: May 19, 2016 | Updated: May 30, 2017 | Views: 18620 | _title> ”> School of renovation
Background. In 2003, I bought myself a normal bed for the first time, with a mattress. Before that I slept on a couch, on a homemade “self-made” bed under a regular cotton mattress 90 cm wide. But such a personal life. I got tired and took myself a base + mattress 160x210 + a decorative back to the base (it is generally from another bed, but in a subject).
The mattress was the simplest, dependent springs, jacquard + batting upholstery, no coconut or latex. But I really liked it. For the first time I lay down on it diagonally, spread my arms. well, nothing hangs down, no rests. Just a song.
Then weekdays began, I broke the slats and the mattress also had a hard time. I changed the lamellas, then I made the “upgrade” to the base (see above posts). At first, my wife and I rode on the mattress, then the children, it began to lose its appearance and elasticity, and finally, after 13 years of operation, it suddenly became clearly uncomfortable to sleep on it - some metal objects were stuck into the fifth point
It would be a good time to change the mattress, but about 8 pieces will come out for the money, and the children will not stop jumping in the near future.
Okay, I think I'll figure it out - we'll see. Perhaps I will repair it, but for now I began to call the offices in search of components and look on the Internet for the repair procedure (there are mainly spring sofas gutting). I was not pleased with the components, no one was going to sell me separately the springs for repair. Well, to hell with him, where ours did not disappear. He dispersed the family members for the weekend and got down to business.
The cover on the mattress I have with a zipper from the end, however, due to the state of the mattress, I thought that I would have to cut it to remove it or to put it on (it looked tight).
But it turned out that everything was removed quite easily, slowly like a stocking.
The structure after disassembly looked like this: the base is a block of dependent springs, batting + some kind of fabric such as geotextile on top / bottom, filling the groove in the block with thick strips of foam rubber around the perimeter.
From the outside, it looked acceptable. From the inside, due to the constant friction of the springs, everything is sprinkled with fine metal dust, well not rusty.
The block itself was broken in several places.
Firstly, the outer frames of the conditionally upper and lower surfaces, representing rectangles with rounded corners made of about 1.5 cm of steel strip, broke at the spot welds (correspondingly, the mattress could hardly hold the shape under load).
Secondly, several springs burst, and just “in the most interesting place”, ie in the middle of the lying places. The broken wire was partially sticking out, which caused my discomfort.
What did I do after cleaning the insulation and washing the foam rubber (by the way, it dried out very hard).
First, I connected the perimeter strips using the available copper sleeves (put on with an interference fit and flattened slightly).
I had to tinker with the springs. Since they didn't sell me a spare, and I didn't have a second-hand ejection block from which I could get serviceable springs, I had to go a simple and not very effective way.
I cut the broken springs to two rings (upper and lower), squeezed them in diameter to tension in this place of the block and in this form I connected them with a bend, winding with the surrounding springs and transverse spiral ties.
The planes turned out, but the spring force in the most important place left much to be desired. Since it was necessary to do it at any cost and quickly, I came up with the idea of lining under the broken spiral as an extra. a shock absorber for a piece of foam rubber. As for evil, there was no such piece of foam rubber, and even after running around several stores, I did not find large sponges. Where to go, I took a myriad of small ones, such as utensils. I think I will glue it to a large size.
Then the fun began.The calculated number of sponges gave such elasticity that while sitting you felt a bump. Through a long selection and experimentation at my fifth point, I found the optimal size of pads, it turned out to be quite few of them (so I can open a small hardware store selling dishwashing sponges).
The block has become more or less uniform.
The next thing to do was stuffed foam rubber strips around the perimeter of the block and glued on top / bottom with an interference fit native batting + geotextile.
The glue turned out to be very reactive and addictive, a fake Titan for all kinds of plastic products.
Well, I came to the most tense moment - pulling the cover over the mattress. I was waiting for a trick because of the tight dimensions, but it turned out that everything was put on easily, especially together, in the reverse order of removal (the stocking, on the contrary), managed in 15 minutes leisurely.
The mattress came out well, of course not new, but it will still serve for 2 years, and then you see, the children will calm down or switch to a trampoline, then we will take a NEW mattress.
In our age, one-sided frame mattresses are practically out of use. An alternative to the frames built into the mattress has become mobile orthopedic bases with lamellas, which allow placing any model on them - spring or springless. Most likely, in your modern apartment, all household members have long been sleeping on such bases and individually selected mattresses.
But the Russian man is practical! Having made repairs, he is in no hurry to part with an old-style sofa or frame mattress. He will take the pieces of furniture to the garage or to the dacha, they say, then I will decide what to do with them. In fact, at the time of the economic crisis, this approach is justified. Well, it's time to give new life to the old frame mattress and install a repaired, now quite worthy piece of furniture in a country or country house.
It is not difficult to understand that the mattress needs repair. Often, this is visible with the naked eye, not to mention the sensations (when you sit or lie on it). Among the most common injuries are:
Deterioration of the outer skin (holes, abrasions)
Wear of soft layers of filler separating the spring block from the outer skin (springs are printed or felt)
Damage to the timber frame and / or base
Bending, loosening or breakage of the springs themselves in the block
This is an incomplete list of damages. It can expand depending on the existing model.
Lack of skills in restoring spring mattresses is not a reason to refuse do-it-yourself repairs, especially ... if you want to get down to business! Having decided to restore the product with your own hands, you can significantly save money, which is better spent on purchasing materials for repairing a sofa or mattress. And you will definitely need them. You may need:
Construction staples, nails, stapler, hammer
Strong twine for tying (not jute, but synthetic!)
A sheet of filler material for replacing the interlayer (polyurethane foam, coir, struttofiber)
Cushioning material between the spring block and the filler layer (non-woven, spunbond, linen, hard felt)
New upholstery fabric for outer cover (as required)
Wooden slats
Springs
New springs are usually the hardest to find from the checklist. The reason lies in the block production technology. The name of the structure explains: a block with continuous weaving. The manufacture and assembly of blocks is carried out in factories and not manually, but on automatic and semi-automatic devices. Therefore, it is problematic to find on sale separate springs for such a block.
If you do not have acquaintances at the Bonnel block factory, you can use undamaged elements from another mattress to replace one or more springs.
It should be noted that over the years of operation, a large amount of dust has accumulated in the mattress. Therefore, it is better to disassemble the product outside the home.Dismantling work can be carried out in the garage, in the country or right on the street.
Before proceeding with the "investigation", thoroughly vacuum the skin and assess its condition - whether it can be reused or not.
Place the mattress upside down on a table or four stools.
Further, depending on the decision made in relation to the further "fate" of the outer skin, choose the method of its removal. If the fabric is not reusable, it can simply be torn off with sharp movements, then folded and disposed of. If it is decided to keep the upholstery, wash it and reuse it, you will have to approach the removal more carefully (without tearing, but removing each fastening bracket or nail separately). Important! Be careful when dismantling old hardware. In order to subsequently install it without problems in its regular places, you can make notes along the way with a marker.
Next, we assess the condition of the flooring (soft layer between the spring block and the outer skin). Most likely, it will be found that the service life of the flooring layers (felt, foam rubber) has long been exhausted and require an unambiguous replacement.
After removing the flooring, thoroughly vacuum the spring block inside.
We inspect the side frame (if any).
We examine the base (bottom).
Advice! If in the construction of your mattress belts play the role of a base, corsage or elastic rubber bands should be replaced with wooden slats. To do this, prepare wooden slats of the required size. The lamellas should be fixed in the same places where the tapes were attached.
After dismantling the main parts, you can proceed to assessing the condition of the spring block. Examine it carefully for dents, loose or broken springs. Since the block with the dependent system was not made manually at the factory, the word "repair" will mean, rather, a number of life hacks and tricks. The real repair of the Bonnel unit (in the case of broken or badly deformed springs) consists in its complete replacement. If this is not possible, you will have to tinker with the replacement of individual elements.
Reference! If the spring block is seriously damaged, you can save time, but simplify the task by replacing the spring block with a springless filler. Getting polyurethane foam for a mattress is not a problem today. The main thing is to take the time and sort out the brands in order to buy a material of sufficient density and rigidity.
If the spring block is not damaged, the wooden frame and the base are intact (or need to be repaired), and the problem is mainly the depressions, the solution will be the tried and tested "old-fashioned" method - strapping the springs. This technique will allow you to "stretch" the weakened springs to a common level, align the plane, give elasticity to the mattress and extend the life of the product.
Reference! The springs are tied with durable synthetic twine.
In the upper rails of the side frame (if the frame is wooden) we hammer construction brackets (not completely) opposite the rows with springs. It is to these "loops" that the strapping cord will be attached (at the beginning and at the end of each row of springs) in order to fasten the strapping to the frame.
Next, we proceed to strapping the transverse (short) rows.
Then we move on to the long longitudinal rows.
Finally, we carry out a diagonal strapping. Important! In the course of tying work, make sure that the height of the springs is the same (in sagging places, pull the twine more tightly). At the same time, the tension on the cord should not be too tight. The harness should not pull the springs too tightly to each other. It's important to catch and feel the pull.
At the end, we hammer all the staples on the wooden frame (into which the twine is threaded) to the stop.
If, after opening the casing, it turned out that the springs are broken, you cannot do without replacing the elements. If one or two springs are broken, just replace them.Unfortunately, as a rule, in blocks of old mattresses, you can find whole rows of broken springs in the central part of the mattress (the part that was subjected to the most stress). There are two options for solving the problem.
Complete replacement of the spring block. This method is more reliable and simple, but requires the presence (or purchase) of a similar serviceable unit.
Partial block replacement. In this case, you will have to dismantle the wooden frame in order to provide access to the spring rows from both sides. After that, the damaged area is removed, a new one is installed in its place.
Advice! When partially replacing the unit, cut the metal spring wire binding around the edges holding the rows of the main springs and unscrew it counterclockwise. After removing the old one and installing the new element in the block, screw it back.
To upholster (sheathe) a sofa or frame mattress neatly, you need a furniture stapler.
First, we lay the substrate, the so-called "drum".
On top we lay a softening layer (or several) - polyurethane foam, coir.
To prevent the wooden frame from breaking through the new fabric, we put a synthetic winterizer (thin foam rubber) on the corners of the slats. It will also add comfort while sitting on the mattress.
Finally, we cover the repaired product with furniture fabric.
If the bottom of the mattress was sewn up with a backing, install it in its original place.
Further care can significantly extend the life of a refurbished old mattress.
The mattress is not intended to be used as a trampoline. Do not allow children to run and jump on it.
It is not recommended to stand on the mattress.
To avoid stains, dirt, and unpleasant odors, try to avoid eating or drinking while sitting or lying on the mattress.
Take your mattress outside at least once a year to ventilate and dry it.
Use a mattress topper to keep your mattress upholstery in good condition.
Compliance with these simple rules will allow you to use the product for several more years.
Frame mattresses with continuous weave springs are a rather outdated development. The first design of this type proposed to the world appeared in the 19th century. The model quickly became popular and in demand due to its low cost, improved characteristics (in comparison with shapeless featherbeds and wadded mattresses) and relative durability.
The Bonnel-type spring block (modern name) still does not give up its positions. True, the technical characteristics of the block itself have become higher, the structures are quieter and more durable, the filler and cladding materials are more durable. Due to the abandonment of the wooden frame, the mattresses became double-sided and "lost weight."
Reference! Some factories to this day produce one-sided models with a wooden frame base (lamellas). However, such options are less and less common.
Manufacturers use hardened steel with a high carbon content to make the springs. All springs are held together by wire. This is where the main design flaw lies. When a person lies down on a mattress, all the springs come into action at once, and not only those that are directly affected (as is the case with independent springs). This characteristic deprives the mattress of high orthopedic properties.
It is worth noting that over time, the springs can begin to emit a characteristic creaking, crunching or rustling sound that is heard every time the sleeper rolls over on the mattress. Another disadvantage of the Bonnel-type dependent spring system is the need to replace the entire spring block if only one or several springs are out of order.
Reference! This information is for those who are considering buying a new mattress and evaluating the pros and cons of the Bonnel spring block.
Do-it-yourself spring mattress repair is cost-effective. If you approach the repair of an old Bonnel-type mattress carefully and thoroughly, the final result may surprise you.
If the mattress is badly damaged or you are categorically not satisfied with its characteristics, it is better to look for a more modern version, for example, a model with a block of independent springs.
Video (click to play).
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