In detail: do-it-yourself overlock prima repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
An overlock called "Prima" is a rather old model of household overlocks, produced in the early 90s. At one time, it was an attempt to make a high-quality analogue of the 51st class overlock only in household performance. How much it was possible to find out in the reviews of those who have such a Prima overlock, but we give you only general information about the device and setting up the operation of a 3 or 4-thread Prima overlock.
Each photo has a small commentary by the master, which explains the purpose of a particular unit, mechanism. And also recommendations for setting that will come in handy in case of repairing an overlock or finding the cause of a malfunction.
The most commonplace reason for the appearance of gaps in a stitch in the Prim overlock is an incorrect needle setting and threading. This photo shows how to thread the right needle thread correctly. It must necessarily pass under the pressure plate, the tension of which is fixed with a screw with a spring. In addition, if you have a three-thread overlock, then the needle should be inserted into the right sprinkling.
Often when changing the needle, the seamstress is unable to insert the needle all the way into the needle bar. It is impossible to visually determine this, and during operation, the overlock begins to skip stitches or does not form an overlock at all. This is a sign that the needle is not fully seated. Ask the man to try to push the needle up with pliers until it stops, making sure that the groove of the needle does not move to the side.
By the way, what is the difference between the Prima four-thread overlock and the three-thread model? Nothing, just the designers at the factory thought that if you did not install one tensioner, then it would be a different overlock model. But you can easily take advantage of this and install any tensioner of a suitable design. And then your three-thread Prima overlock will become a four-thread, since all the other knots are present for the second needle thread.
 |
Video (click to play). |
And what is the difference between the Prima overlock, for example, from the VOMZ 151-4D overlock? The main difference is that Prima's rail is not intended for sewing knitted stretchable fabrics. The last designation "4D" means that the rail is of a differential type, the Prima has a regular rail. But, nevertheless, this sample of overlock, which served as a “model” for us, perfectly overcast any fabrics, even knitted ones.
If you just bought such an overlock from your hands, then when threading you may have difficulties. First, it is not immediately clear how to raise the creel. This is done with a screw on the overlock handle. Look at the topmost photo, the screw is clearly visible on the right side of the handle, so you need to loosen it, then the creel can be pulled up and tightened again.
As for the threads, thread them into the holes of the thread guide of the tensioner, as shown in this photo, as if wrapping a thread around it. This method will prevent the formation of thread loops, which means there will be no jumps in the thread tension and the quality of the overlock stitch will be more stable.
Pay particular attention to threading the loopers.
The threads must be inserted into all fasteners installed along the way.
Probably, few people know, but for many overlockers, the knife can be turned off. Why you need it, you decide for yourself, we will only explain how this is done. Just press the knife to the right and lift it up.
Since the Prima overlocker comes with spare knives (upper and lower), it means that someday they need to be changed.You can do this with your own hands, without calling the wizard, but it is almost impossible to set them up to work correctly on your own. Therefore, refrain from this type of repair with your own hands, but if you really decide to replace the knives yourself, then we advise you to carefully look at this photo.
Please note that the cutting edge of the lower knife is located just below the plane of the stitch plate, and the cutting edge of the upper knife goes beyond the edge of the lower knife (in the lowest position) by 1-1.5mm. It is impossible to give an exact recommendation, all this is determined empirically.
If the overlock “buzzes” and “squeals” during operation, then, most likely, the tension of the electric drive belt has loosened. It is regulated in two ways. Or, using a screwdriver, the screws that secure the motor to the bracket are loosened, and the motor is displaced from the overlock. Or, using a 10 key, the fastening of the bracket to the overlock body is loosened, and then the drive together with the bracket is lowered down. Or you need both. By the way, if the belt is from Soviet times, then it is better to replace it with a new one.
Access to the drive is only possible after removing the protective cover. Do not completely unscrew the screws of its fastening, it is enough just to loosen them and remove the cover. There are only two fastening screws, they are shown in the photo.
Almost any overlocker has a stitch length (frequency) adjustment. In the Prim overlock, this adjustment is made with this lever. By lifting it up, the needle will pierce the fabric less often, that is, the stitch will be longer and vice versa.
Overlock Prima has the ability to adjust the height of the rack teeth, as well as the pressure of the foot on the fabric. For details on how to do this, see the instructions supplied with the overlock.
Periodically, the overlock is required to be cleaned of lint and oil contamination, and at least once a month it is required to lubricate the overlock with special machine oil. Sometimes you need to remove the back cover to do this. To remove it, you do not need to unscrew all the screws on the cover, just unscrew these four screws.
There will be access to the main units of the overlock, requiring abundant lubrication.
Overlock Janome ArtStyle 4057
Overlock Janome ArtStyle 4057 performs 3- and 4-thread overlock stitches. It is used for overcasting any fabrics, including knitted fabrics.
Preventive repair, setting up overlocks with your own hands
Despite the fact that sometimes there is a looper adjustment scheme for an overlock, it is almost impossible to set up an overlock yourself without experience. In many cases, these parameters are used by the wizard only as rough, approximate settings.
Which carpetlock to buy
If you are looking for a versatile sewing machine that can not only sew, but also overcast fabrics, then read this article. It will focus on just such a machine called a carpetlock. The coverlock is capable not only of overcasting, like an overlock, but also of performing a number of other operations.
Which overlock to buy
Domestic overlock VOMZ 151-4D often seen in overlock advertisements. If you are going to buy a used overlock, carefully check the operation of this overlock. Pay particular attention to overcasting on knitted fabrics and lightweight lining fabrics. A well-tuned VOMZ 151-4D overlocker should not make gaps, the stitching should be uniform and beautiful. During operation, the overlock should not make a strong knock.
Brother Computerized Sewing Machine
What is the difference between a computerized sewing machine. The device and basic operations and types of stitches.
The device and repair of the sewing machine Janome
How an inexpensive Janome sewing machine works and how to repair Janome with your own hands.
The main advantages of an electronic typewriter
If you are going to buy a sewing machine, then read this article about the features of an electronic sewing machine.
Singer sewing machine from the 90s
In this article, the master will share his opinion on the models of Singer sewing machines produced in the early 90s.
How to choose and replace an overlock belt
Overlock electric drive belts are not only of different diameters, but also have other features. How to choose and replace an overlock belt.
Do you have a sewing machine and love to sew? Then this site is for you. Professional craftsmen will tell you how to make minor repairs to a sewing, knitting machine. Experienced technologists will share the secrets of tailoring. Review articles will tell you which sewing or knitting machine to buy, a mannequin iron and many other useful tips you will find on our website.
Thank you for viewing the entire page.
Any overlock is much more complicated than a sewing machine. It is only a master with special knowledge, skills and experience that can set up many parameters of the overlock units, moreover, only a master with special knowledge, skills and experience can repair mechanisms. It is almost impossible to make adjustments with your own hands, for example, the interaction of the overlock loopers. However, it is not always necessary to repair or adjust its knots, sometimes it is enough to correctly adjust the thread tension and the overlock will again overcast the fabric with high quality.
Almost all overlocks, except for the old model 51 class industrial overlock, are very sensitive to thread tension, and when switching to other thread thickness and quality, the tensioners have to be adjusted. This is precisely the most common reason for poor overlock performance. But there are other reasons too, let's look at them.
First, let's figure out how the overlock seam is formed.
The overlocker uses two loopers and a needle (three-thread stitch) to form a stitch. In modern models of knitted overlockers, two needles are installed, due to this, the overlocker performs a higher quality four-thread overlock stitch.
When adjusting the thread tension in a stitch, it is important to understand which one belongs to the needle (s) and which belongs to the loopers.
This diagram clearly shows that the needle thread (I) does not overcast, but grinds, but overcast the cut edge of the looper thread (P). The green thread (bottom) belongs to the left looper, and the beige thread (top) belongs to the right looper.
Be sure to figure out which looper is setting the bobbin thread and which is the upper thread. And remember which tensioner adjusts each one. Then, just by looking at the line, you will immediately understand which thread needs to be tightened and which one to loosen.
Most often, when a bad stitching appears, random rotation of all the handles in a row begins, completely knocking down the tensioner setting. As a result, the overlock begins to skip and sometimes break the thread.
And yet, having studied how the overlock seam is formed, you will get rid of the illusion that the sewing machine can sew an overlock seam. The sewing machine can only imitate the overlock stitch because it has a completely different stitching principle.
Some instructions provide for adjustment of the loopers, and give parameters for their setting in relation to the needles in case of failure of these gaps or when replacing the loopers. As a rule, these parameters are indicative, so to speak, ideal. A master who repairs overlocks has to experimentally bring them to the desired value, so this type of repair is recommended for a professional.
All our recommendations in the overlock repair section are generalized, universal and will fit any overlock model, but do not forget to carefully read the instructions for your model, where you can find information on setting up, lubricating, choosing the type of needle and more.
If you experience gaps or thuds, the needle is most likely dull or bent. A dull needle can cause many problems. The overlock needle is a very important detail, many parameters depend on its condition, in particular, the gap of the needle with the looper is the main parameter for the overlock stitching without gaps.
A blunt needle can be identified by running your thumbnail along the tip of the needle on all sides. The nail will definitely find a bent place on the tip. You can use a magnifying glass to inspect the needle point.
If the needle is bent, do not try to straighten it, the overlock setting is very accurate and such needles are not allowed.
Whether the needle is bent or not can be determined by placing it on a flat surface. Examine the needle from above and from the side: 1 - parallel lumen; 2 - flat surface (glass, etc.)
Pay particular attention to which type of needle is installed in the overlock. It is imperative to comply with the requirements of the manufacturer's instructions - use the types and brands of needles recommended by the factory.
In addition to the fact that the needles can be with a round or sawn flask, they can still differ in the length and thickness of the flask, the length of the needle itself and other parameters.
If the overlocker uses needles with a round flask (overlock class 51), you need to replace the needle with the same thickness and length of the flask when replacing.
See Sewing Machine Needles.
The sizes and types of needles used are indicated in the instructions, sometimes their brands are indicated on a sticker located on the inner surface of the hinged cover. If not, then write down the type of needle on a small piece of paper and glue it with transparent tape on the body.
In any household overlock, the needle is installed with a long groove towards itself, or with the sawn-off part of the flask away from itself.
It is imperative to install the needle as far as it will go, and if you have two needles, they are often offset (one higher than the other).
Overlock sewing threads play a vital role in the overlock process. If you use threads of different quality or thickness, this will immediately affect the tension and, therefore, the stitch pattern will change. The overlocker is very sensitive to thread tension, and the slightest change in one of them can affect all the others.
Try not to use cotton or thick threads. The thinner and more elastic the thread, the easier it will pass through the sewing fabric, needles, loopers, and the better the stitching will be.
Threads on tapered bobbins (35) are considered the most optimal for high-quality overlock operation. They are thin, strong and resilient and can be easily removed from the tapered bobbin.
It is ideal to use threads of the same brand, changing only the color. But in practice this happens rarely, therefore, when replacing threads with a different type or thickness, their degree of tightening may change. In the event that the stitch turns out to be very ugly and not "correct", we recommend to loosen all the tensioners and at the slowest speed, gradually increase the tension of each thread, periodically checking which thread, and how much you need to tighten.
In “hard” cases, when adjusting the overlock stitch, it is better to use threads of different colors in order to clearly see the tension of each of them, and replace them after adjustment.
The fabric does not move - the presser foot pressure is too weak.
If the fabric is too thin, the pressure of the foot must be reduced, otherwise the fabric will pucker. Increase the foot pressure when sewing thick fabrics. In general, the presser foot should not be changed unless clearly necessary.
Broken thread - the threads are not threaded correctly.
Thread the threads carefully, especially those going through the loopers. In some models of overlockers, threading into the loopers is a rather complicated procedure, and you cannot do without specially curved tweezers. It is imperative to insert the thread into all the attachment points indicated in the diagram. It is enough to skip one fastening and the stitching will be uneven.
The thread is tangled. Check the spool, maybe the thread came off the spool and caught on the body part. Check the thread guides and the entire thread path.
Too much thread tension is one of the reasons for thread breakage. Thread breakage, skips occur when using a different type of needles (see above).
Skip stitches: the needle is bent or blunt; the needle is installed incorrectly; a needle is used that is not recommended for use by the manufacturer; the thread is not threaded correctly or one of the thread attachments is missing; the pressure of the presser foot is too weak.
Uneven stitches - the thread tension is incorrectly adjusted.
The fabric wrinkles - too much pressure on the fabric; the thread is not threaded correctly or is tangled; the thread tension is too tight. When sewing thin and light fabrics, loosen the thread tension in the overlock stitch.
After prolonged operation of the overlock, clean the looper compartment and other accessible areas from trimmings, fleece and other contamination (oil stains). Cleaning is preferably done with a stiff hair brush (for glue).
By the way, excess oil in the area of the needle can ruin the fabric being processed. Be careful to lubricate the parts that come into contact with the fabric.
Overlocks should be lubricated at least once every six months, and with intensive use once a month. It is convenient to use a medical syringe instead of a grease can. With a long needle, you can always crawl into hard-to-reach places, and less oil is consumed.
The instructions provide a lubrication scheme, but you can follow a simple rule - lubricate any accessible places where there is friction of metal parts, even if they are not specified by the factory in the instructions.
In order to “thoroughly” lubricate all the overlock assemblies, it is sometimes necessary to remove the protective covers of the case, but if they are difficult to remove, you can get by with the factory labels for lubrication.
Overlock lubrication should be given more attention than a sewing machine, as the overlock operates at higher speeds and the lack of lubrication in some units leads to overheating and even seizure.
What is the difference between a carpetlock and an overlocker and a coverlock An overlocker is practically no different from a carpetlock. It can also sew overlock seams. But thanks to the special design, in addition to the overcasting seam, the carpetlock can also perform a flat seam and even a stitching one. Since a carpetlock is much more complicated than an overlock, it can be repaired only in a specialized service center.
Which overlock to buy If you do not use an overlocker often, you do not need to purchase an expensive model overlock. Any overlock for 7-8 thousand rubles will perfectly overcast various fabrics and, most importantly, in the event of a breakdown, repairing the overlock will be cheaper.
Inexpensive Sewing Machine: Pros and Cons For many who are going to learn how to sew, the question often arises "What to buy a sewing machine", preferably inexpensive and good. In this article, we will figure out whether such a combination is possible - "an inexpensive and good machine" and how an inexpensive sewing machine that costs 3-4 thousand rubles differs from a machine that costs 30 thousand.
We sew knitwear without gaps and looping Many who tried to sew knitwear on an ordinary sewing machine noticed that the machine often refuses to make a beautiful and even stitch. There are gaps in the knitted stitching, the lower thread loops and sometimes breaks. Why is this happening and how can you fix it?
Overlock class 51 Overlock class 51 is perhaps the most common brand of industrial sewing machine used in everyday life, in small ateliers. Although morally this technique has long been outdated and many modern fabrics simply cannot be processed with high quality, nevertheless, its use is sometimes justified, especially for processing coarse and thick fabrics.
How to sew on a curtain tape To save money, many are trying to sew curtains with their own hands, and you have to learn how to sew the curtain tape yourself. However, the result is often unimportant, because there is not enough experience or a completely unsuitable sewing machine.
How to sew curtains with your own hands Processing an organza curtain of a simple model for a window in the kitchen is indeed available to many who have little experience and a sewing machine.But to sew curtains in a living room or a hall with a lambrequin is the lot of professionals who have not only knowledge, but also experience.
How to hem jeans How to cut jeans that are too long and use a household sewing machine to finish a hem stitch consisting of several layers of coarse denim.
Here is a brief description of the most common malfunctions and ways to eliminate them in the Overlock machine -51 class. (industrial).
The principle of operation of the machine "Overlock" -51 class:
- Lower left looper (rice. 172) catches the thread at the needle.
Rice. 172. Left looper of the Overlock machine -51 cl. PMZ:
Rice. 173. Right looper of the Overlock machine -51 cl. PMZ:
1. Skipped stitches (no stitching). Thread break in right looper
1. Thread the right looper (see fig. 173).
2. Skipped stitches (no stitching): No thread in the needle in the left looper
2. Thread the needle or left looper
3. The left looper does not catch the loop-overflow from the needle: the looper has deviated from the needle by more than 0.1 mm clearance due to a bent or loosened screw 2 (see fig. 172) securing the looper leg. If the looper is displaced to the left, when adjusting it must be moved to the right and tighten the screw2... The left looper cannot be folded in at any adjustment.
3. Turn the handwheel to lower the needle bar to its lowest position. Use a medium screwdriver to loosen the screw 2 and turn the left loop slightly towards the needle, i.e. forward. Tighten the screw 2 and gently turn the flywheel along the way. If the left looper catches the needle during this, loosen the screw 2 and take it away from the needle at a distance of 0.05 mm. The operation is very time consuming, since it is impossible to visually check the size of the gap. But in a few steps it is possible to achieve the desired clearance
4. Skip stitches
4. Lower the needle bar 0.5-1.0 mm
5. Put the needle in the same size to which the Overlock was previously adjusted. Otherwise, readjustment of the relationship between the left looper and the needle is required to the conditions specified in paragraph 4
5. Skipped stitches (no stitching). The needle is of a different size (length). Round shank needles come in different sizes - for example 42.38, 33mm, etc.
6. Skip stitches in a line. The needle is strongly twisted
6. Replace the needle thread with good quality thread
7. Skipped stitches (no stitching). The right looper is so close to the needle that it bends back as it passes through
7. Right looper (see fig. 173) is fastened in such a way that it is impossible to move it from its attachment point: landing using the SLOT 4. Therefore, its relative position is ensured only by bending the looper itself back and forth, providing a gap with the left looper equal to approximately 0.05-0.1 mm.
In practice, this is done as follows: bend the right looper forward; if it hits the left looper when it hits it, bend the right looper slightly. Here it is necessary to bear in mind the difficulties of adjustment in that the mutual position of the loopers on the right side is closely coordinated with the mutual position of the left looper with the needle. Debug the right side (the relationship of the loopers to each other), on the left side, the left looper may touch the needle or the right looper may touch the needle. But there is only one correct alignment of the needle with both loopers and the loopers between each other. This is the only option and must be found by adjusting the cam, which is located on the left of the main shaft.
When the cam is turned by a small angle of 2-3 °, both loopers change their position at the same time. Adjustment of the loopers should be preceded by removing them from the machine and checking their condition thoroughly. Remove all burrs on the loopers, bluntness of the working end and other damage and grind them on a felt wheel impregnated with GOI paste. This operation is required
8. Skipped stitches (no stitching). The needle does not catch the right looper thread.This looper interacts with the needle above the left looper and is clearly visible. In this case, the needle is not at the normal level. This may be due to a different needle size (in length, see p. 5)
8. Place a needle of the same size (length) to which the Overlock was previously adjusted. When debugging the relative position of the left looper with the needle, the operation is always the most difficult one. With this replacement operation, you can place a spacer under the base of the right looper, this will change its inclination and may speed up the adjustment of the looper needle. Can be adjusted by moving the needle bar vertically
9. Any thread break. Strong thread clamping in the adjuster
9. Loosen the thread clamp in the corresponding adjuster
10. Any thread break. Thread chafing when the looper hits the looper or the needle, or other parts of the mechanism. Touched loopers or needles can be detected visually or by ear (squeaking, grinding, etc. sounds can be heard)
10. Eliminate the contact of the needle with the loopers, as well as between the loopers (see. p. 7 ). Make the stitch wider (paragraphs 1-3 )
1. Loosen the bedknife block retaining screw.
2. Move the block to the right by 0.5-0.8 mm.
3. Tighten the block retaining screw.
Adjust the seam cleanliness by moving the foot to the right or left. The same can be achieved by shifting the toe to the right or left on the foot. The quality of the stitch depends on the thickness, tension and quality of the thread.
11. The material is not trimmed. A gap has formed between the knives. It can form due to the backlash of the bracket. 1 ( fig. 174 ) on its axis. This play is easy to detect if you shake the hold-down device. 2 right left
11. Loosen the screw 5, lightly pressing the bracket 1 to the right, remove the backlash, at the same time remove the movable knife 6 to the left, close to the fixed knife, and tighten the screw 5... When turning by the flywheel, see if there is a gap between the movable and fixed knives. CLEARANCE SHOULD NOT BE!
Rice. 174. Clamping device of a movable knife "Overlock" -51 cl. PMZ:
This is a monster and I have it .. I can't sew thin fabrics (chiffon), I'll get rid of it soon. I'm glad I can help. Here I laid it out
The cover has not yet been published. Which day the photo file is "buggy", such as the login entered incorrectly (3 letters), but this is not so, I am writing everything correctly ..
So here in the forum there is a section "Announcements".
And also ask the nearest fabric stores, maybe they will be allowed to hang up advertisements.
I was going to do that too.
Prima worked great for a while. Now, for some reason, the line has become clumsy, and one thread, after removing the fabric from the overlock, is completely pulled out. We must look for the reason, but there is no instruction.
Selana, Kalinka, help! if you still have instructions, could you please scan the troubleshooting and configuration section.
I would be immensely grateful!
my mail
Already sold. But also familiar. If he comes to visit me, I will scan it. If not urgent.
And in general, specifically, what do you dislike in the line? What thread is twisting? How is it pulled out? Straight out of stitch or overlock? Maybe take a photo?
I sew with three threads. I use the right needle number 2, 3 and 4. Until recently, everything was sewn fine.
After another thread change, this glitch appeared.
The thread that is guided by the needle number 3 is pulled out of the line - see photo.
In principle, it turned out that the stitch could be made with the two remaining needles (2 and 4). But it is fragile, it dissolves.
And the thread clamp # 4 is too strong. And if you make it a little weaker, it starts to twist completely.
this thread just pulls out and that's it. is not fixed by anything. 
I sew with three threads. I use needles # 2, 3 and 4.
The thread is pulled out of the stitch, which is guided by the needle No. 3
Tayana-T, it is possible that the matter is in the threads. Try to change them. My machine was also sometimes naughty because of the thread or the mismatch of the needle and thread.
It still does not hurt to clean all the nodes from dust, lubricate, and once again check the correct threading.
If you yourself cannot cope, call the master. I did my Prima prophylaxis about twice a year with active use.
Good luck [/ b]
The advantage of "Prima" over other overlocks is that it is not capricious. Mine sewed with any thread on my own needles (I never specially selected it), even if the threads themselves are different (Dzhanomka - my new overlock - loops if the threads are of different thicknesses), never turned to the masters and did not disassemble. She worked like a clock for 7 years. And now in perfect condition.
I would clean all the mechanisms that you can reach (with a toothbrush, you can use a vacuum cleaner, as the girls wrote), then slightly loosen the tension of the lower looper thread (4) and tighten the upper looper thread a little (3). I don’t understand how it can be pulled out, is it caught in the needle thread?
the fact is that needle 2 does not capture the loop from needle 3 (does not fall into its center), but steps over it. Or strikes directly into the loop thread.
the upper needle, instead of catching the loop on the lower needle, jumps over and catches both threads.
Looking at the last picture, at first I thought I had visual hallucinations. Your car is making passes. This may well be due to the thread, but first of all, you should check the threading and put in a new needle.
techsupport, I absolutely agree with you. Especially in terms of needles. And gas stations.
I'm tired of trying to figure it out, I spent the whole day on it.
took it for repair. And the master, having spent an hour, said that it was not yet clear what was wrong. We managed to fix something, but the line is still ugly. I had to leave.
in the photo, the upper needle is really not turned correctly. has shifted along the axis. And with the gas station everything is correct. I took a picture of the process of work - looping, when the upper needle should grab the loop from the lower needle.
Dear craftswomen, thank you very much for your help.
Let's see what the master has to say at the end. : *
Ladies, can you make a double-thread seam stitch on it?
exactly grind off ??
Can you make a double-thread seam stitch on it?
exactly grind off ??
Already sold. But also familiar. If he comes to visit me, I will scan it. If not urgent.
Help, please, with instructions
And then they gave the overlock, the summer seemed to be sewing (there was enough a scan about refueling - for which a separate THANKS!), And now it constantly tears the thread, the seam is not even and beautiful, it crawls to one side, then to the other (and if I weaken a little thread, so generally it becomes so loose sprawling.)
And the rear levers do not move at all (maybe you need to press them somehow cunningly?) -
in general, a bunch of questions, you VERY need to look at the instructions, otherwise it's not sewing, but sheer torment 
After buying a new sewing machine, the owner can't wait to try it out, but don't rush things. Such an accurate and sensitive device must be pre-configured. Only this will provide you with normal work and will allow you to get high-quality seams. Consider, for example, how the overlock setting is carried out - this will help you gain the necessary experience.
It is generally believed that it is rather difficult to understand how to properly set up an overlock for setting balanced scores. This statement was true for devices of the previous generation. In them, all manipulations were carried out using conical springshidden in the car body. The new devices are distinguished by their simplicity and clarity of design, all the necessary controls are placed on the front panel and are available to the user at any time.
Experts recommend adjusting the thread tension with integer values on the regulator. Divisions between whole indicators are designed to adjust the seam for each individual session. The same is true for overlocks of the previous generation and for Chinese overlocks. First unscrew the conical spring nuts firmly, and then proceed with the fine tuning step by step.You can write down the set values - this will allow you not to search for them by trial and error the next time.
Let's proceed to the setup procedure. To achieve the optimal tension of the overlock thread with your own hands, you must correctly set the appropriate regulator on the device body:
- weak tension is provided at a set value from two to three;
- medium tension can be achieved by setting the regulator to around four to five;
- for strong tension, choose a position from six to seven.
It is important to remember that all knobs must be set to the same value, and all threads tucked in them are the same in number and structure.
Different values are for different fabrics. We do not recommend stapling thin fabrics in the mode designed for thick fabrics.
Setting the stitch width and length is necessary to improve the quality of the resulting stitch. For each new session, you need to select your own settings. For standard work on this machine is provided universal mode, combining indicators suitable for most fabrics. For small seams, there is no need to adjust the clipper.
The stitch length in this setting ranges from two and a half to three millimeters, which is great for thin fabrics and medium thick fabrics. Stitches shorter or longer than this value may result in poor quality seams and puckering.
Stitch width, which is selected before starting work, must correspond to the installation width of the cutting line. The indicator selected on the device controls such processes as:
- the distance from the trimming knife to the needles;
- the length of the fabric left inside the machine;
- system speed.
The largest stitch length is used for work in which most of the fabric needs to be positioned within the stitch. It is quite difficult to work with the very minimum value, since the optimal thread tension is required so much that the threads begin to break periodically.
The narrow seam is convenient for rolled seams or other specific jobs.
Direct adjustment of the length is carried out using special bolts provided by the design... Rotate them to the required position. The operation must be carried out in stages, checking the length of the stitch on the piece every time a small twist has been made.
There is an optimal way to set up the overlock before starting work. To do this, you will need a piece of dough cloth to check the quality of the seam. Pass the workpiece through the machine and carefully examine the resulting line.
|
Video (click to play). |
The final stage is the definition looper threads - it should be on the extreme section of the fabric. In this case, the seam is laid down with an even stitch, forming a flat pattern between the stitches. Buttonholes protruding from the fabric edge indicate a loose looper thread tension. Pull them up a bit and check on a new piece of cloth. If the loops of one looper creep out over the edge, then only its thread needs to be tightened. Pay close attention to this, because if you make the wrong choice, you risk creating excessive tension and provoking weaving on only one side of the fabric. In this case, you will have to loosen the thread step by step until the buttonhole stitching returns to normal. In some cases, you may need to tighten one looper and loosen the other at the same time. Experts recommend starting with weakening.
By setting up the overlock according to the given scheme, you can avoid many problems. The instruction allows you to adjust the settings for any type of fabric and successfully perform work of any complexity.
Setting up a sewing machine requires focused attention and dedication to the process. Get ready to spend an hour fine-tuning all the settings you need to get it working. When carrying out the procedure, you cannot rush, if you are not sure that you can do it yourself, it is better to contact the master.
