In detail: do-it-yourself Pajero 2 repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
In addition, the following issues were resolved:
normally welded on the front protection cage nuts (for some reason, they left everything as it was at the back)
shortened the broken tube of the air conditioner and welded its end
fixed the battery crane bracket with mortgage rivets and bolts 2 times smaller than the standard diameter (already broken off)
adjusted the hood bumpers
repaired the fasteners of the mudguards with embedded rivets with bolts
Problems that appeared and could not be solved:
Work expenses:
The work itself: 60550 RUR
Consumables: 9185 RUR
Sandblasting: 9200 RUR
Part costs:
Body pillows: MB675984 (2pcs), MB275630 (6pcs) + RBI M40K5730 (4pcs), MB275632 (10pcs) - 7882 RUR
Body bolts: MB675588 (2pcs), MB115515 (4pcs), MB250693 (4pcs), MR157300 (2pcs) - 3364 RUR
Pillow bushings: MB115177 (10pcs) - 1340 RUR
Washers larger: MB115178 (10pcs) - 1330 RUR
Small washers for the frame and small washers for pillows Costs for escapes:
Front axle 75w90 / GL5 (Toyota 0888502106): 1l - 726 RUR
Rear axle 75W85 / GL5 LSD (Toyota 08885-81070): 3L - 4380 RUR
Box + distributor 75W90 GL4 (Liqui Moly 3979): 6L - 4962 RUR
Gur Dextron III (Liqui Moly 3946): 1L - 550 RUR
DOT4 brakes (Liqui Moly 8834): 1l - 568 RUR
Total for details: 60434 RUR , despite the fact that brake pipes were purchased back in 2010 and their real price today is 2.5 times higher. Total for all work with materials and parts: 139369r.
Video (click to play).
The condition of the frames of second-generation Mitsubishi Pajero cars is a headache for most of the happy owners of this car. Yes, yes, I didn't make a reservation, just happy ones. Pajero is a car of colossal reliability and excellent cross-country ability. But, unfortunately, with weak anti-corrosion properties laid down by the manufacturer. A closed and unventilated frame with no drain holes is doomed to death if the owner, at least occasionally, allowed himself off-road trips.
Our car service has extensive experience in repairing Pajero frames, accumulated over seven years.
The material and technical base allows us to quickly manufacture on industrial equipment all the necessary parts for high-quality repair of the frame of your car. We do not patch the frame with pieces of metal from a landfill, but we make repair spars along the entire length of the corrosion center.
need repair of the body and frame of Pajero2, 3-door
bodywork:
2.recooking the floor behind the driver
3.Repair of the rear sill
4.frame repair (cracks in two places)
it is not necessary to disassemble / assemble the interior, bare metal will arrive.
Re: +1 Yes Misha, you miscalculated something. Think over and evaluate more closely the amount of work to be done.
Re: Necrophilia's corner))) Pajero repair 2 Hello!
We are now doing Land Rover, practically the same, repair price = 180,000 rubles.
Re: for that kind of money, you can paint the body outside / inside - 110,000 rubles.
In my budget. The person who makes a car in Moscow did not find anything close in price, everywhere it is much more expensive.
And yet, most of the reluctance to climb again with a syringe, de we have a normal seteoshka, where would I grease everything for a budgetary fee? or is it better to do it yourself, so that you know for sure that everything is in order?
Lesh, better than himself - no one will, and so 100-200 tenge point, at different service stations
Lesh, better than himself - no one will do
- That's for sure. One of the most important rules in my life ..
People, it's time to cut in moderation.new forum and flood is already a shaft. the USR issue was raised in two topics, both in repair and in operation. It will only get worse further
I will resolve the issue with the USR It is not difficult.
Tell the service station, where will the valve be muffled? There is no time to figure it out yourself!
I moved the discussion about the USR and your questions here: exhaust gases /
People are kind, please tell me. If the hydrics are knocking, they only need to be changed, or can you somehow adjust, or maybe not themselves, but you can also adjust the thread so that they do not knock ??
P.S.: And how I drive a tractor, I'm tired of it already ..
Yes, everything is easily removed and washed, that's a long time to describe how to do it. Better in an Internet search engine, fill * flushing hydraulic lifters * and get step-by-step explanations
and it will be enough just to rinse them or is it better to replace them with new ones ??
It all depends on the amount of dough. There is and it is not a pity, buy new ones (it will work out quickly) and if not, you will wash well, and how to check them is also written there
ok, thanks, we will read.
So, I bought the stabilizer struts in advance today. And I could not separate the lower part from the lever: the bushing rusted to the bolt on the lever .. I had to screw everything back .. I still can't figure out how to separate them from each other ..
If you remember, you had the same thing with the rear ones. How was filmed - do you remember?
waste, when the whole forum is ours, and you can write anywhere, personally I have a stupor, because where exactly to write is not yet done, despite the higher technical
One or a pair of jacks to help. If the nuts are unscrewed, if not, then also the grinder.
the nuts are unscrewed. I wrote, I can not separate the bushing of the lower end of the stabilizer from the bolt that is welded to the lever. If you cut, then what, re-weld a new bolt? It's too much for me alone
Lyokha you didn’t understand, I still don’t understand Nikita. Where there are bushings, there are none, stabilizers stick to the bridge, if in front, on the earrings - racks, through rubber bands and washers, if the nuts unscrewed the bottom, then either they are removed or get stuck, it was like that, but insolently press it out with a jack, under the weight of the machine ...
Mitsubishi Pajero Mark II / V20 (edition 1991-1995 + additions 1996, 1997, 1998 Translated August 2002) repair and maintenance manual for service stations with gasoline engines: 4G64 SOHC 8V 2.4 l (2351 cc) 113 hp / 83 kW, 6G72 12V / 24V SOHC 3.0 l (2972 cc) 152-185 hp / 112-136 kW, 24V DOHC 6G74 3.5 l (3497 cc) 208 hp / 153 kW and diesel 4D56 2.5 l (2477 cm³) 84-91-106 hp / 62-67-78 kW, 4M40 2.8 l (2835 cm³) 125 hp / 92 kW; Technical characteristics, control dimensions of the body, device, wiring diagrams, diagnostics. This manual contains a description of operations for removal, disassembly, inspection, adjustment, assembly, installation of units, parts and is intended for mechanics of repair and service companies. Mitsubishi Pajero rear- and all-wheel drive SUV with bodies five- and three-door station wagon of increased capacity second generation model from 1991 to 1999
Mitsubishi Pajero mk2 video bearing replacement / changing wheel bearings and maintenance / service (Pajero 91-99)
VIDEO VIDEO
FRONT AXLE - Front wheel hub
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Front wheel hub)
REPLACING BEARINGS
We change the starter on the Mitsubishi Pajero 2 car (Mitsubishi Pajero 2) according to all the rules. In our case, a car with an engine capacity of 2.5, turbodiesel. Before removing the starter, it is imperative to remove the terminals from the battery.
On Pajero, the starter can be removed and pulled out only from the bottom of the machine, so we need either a lift or a viewing hole. The next step is to unscrew the cardan and take it to the side, then remove the clutch cylinder. Now we have direct access to our starter, we can freely remove it and replace it with a new one, or fix the old one.
Video replacement of the starter Mitsubishi Pajero 2 (Mitsubishi Pajero 2):
With the proper skill, you shouldn't have any problems with removing the old and installing a new starter.
Purebred Japanese. The owner complained about extraneous knocking and vibration on the body.
When diagnosing the chassis, the following problems were identified:
Killed the crosspieces of the rear and front universal joints
rear stabilizer bushings
rear stabilizer bar
rear shocks / springs are already tired
front stabilizer links
torn inner boot of the right CV joint
well, little things little ...
We decided so. The client leaves the car with me and goes fishing. A week later he comes and picks up the repaired one.
I ordered the iron. It has come. Getting started. First, replace the rear stub bushings and replace the links.
In principle, there is nothing complicated. The only thing that caused a little problems was the sour links on the stub. Because of which, the stabilizer had to be removed altogether and carried to the workbench.
Well, on the workbench, with the help of a folk instrument, everything is unscrewed quickly and easily
When installing it back, I smeared the stand itself with graphite so that it would not stick to the inside of the sleeve over time.
Now the universal joints. Structurally, there is a nuance. If, when pulling out the rear universal joint from the distributor, oil does not flow from the RK shank, then when removing the front universal joint, almost everything will drain. Therefore, we prudently drain the oil from the RK.
When unscrewing the drain plug, RK was surprised that the torsion bar interferes with putting the boss on the plug. Usually in the Japanese, everything is thought out to the smallest detail. I had to unscrew the cap by 24.
Next, the cardans are unscrewed. Easy enough. All the same, Japanese bolts are not related to domestic ones. After twenty years, it is enough just to move, and then unscrew it by hand.
We carry it to the workbench. And the standard procedure for pressing out a dead cross. Replacement with a new one. The crosspieces were installed not original, but also Japanese.
After the cardan shafts, proceed to the front end. There is a replacement for links and a torn CV joint boot.
To replace the boot, remove the front wheels, press out the fingers, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the inner CV joint and move the hub with the axle shaft to the side.
I highly recommend unscrewing the front stabilizer while doing this. It will be much more convenient. I had to shoot it anyway.
We dismantle the two retaining rings and remove the CV joint from the axle shaft. Mine, clean.
Next, we put a new boot on the axle shaft and assemble the CV joint in the reverse order. We drive half of the lubricant from the tube into the glass, half into the boot.
Now there are front links. The situation there turned out to be more complicated.
In the silencers of the links, the rubber was torn off from the hub. The bushing itself stuck to death on the landing axle on the lever. In addition, the link finger nut boiled. It is not realistic to counter your finger with a hexagon.
Therefore, I had to remove the front stabilizer arm assembly with links.
And on the workbench, the grinder did her dirty work
Putting it together with new links and putting it in place.
Then I changed the killed hubs to a hard flange. Ride on a comb and on a moderate lack of soil. It seems like a normal walker. It remains to change the ammorty and rear springs. But this is the next time.
The second part of the Mitsubishi Montero project (Pajero 2), we remove the body from the frame, disassemble the suspension, prepare for sandblasting.
Ilya, if you know, can you tell me if it is possible to install a body from Gelendvagen on the frame?
A colossal job just to say to remove the body from the frame
Guys, how much do you charge for such a job? Approxnr
Do you know the steering wheel for Pajero 2 will fit from Pajero 3? Or maybe from a montero or another car?
Better recycling send
Hello, how much does this work cost?
hello, thanks for the video, I have to do this myself. keep it up.
thanks to people like you, legendary cars get a second life well done
Cool. Knowing how much rust damaged everything. how it was all dismantled. Cool.
Can you say for how much you can get all the tulle and salenblocks on the way, how and where to order?
the big name, however, is MEGA OpGrate. in the range what would the pump belt change the body throw off.
Great approach, you are great. But there are tips: since you will have a motor with a huge torque (compared to 6g72 12kl), I advise you to take as a basis a large transfer case from 6g74 or 4M40, also take the bridges from the more powerful version of P2, otherwise this small transfer case and bridges can not withstand such an increased moment! About Varieties of rear axles here
It seems to me easier to take a body from Vladik than to cook this one. As practice shows, there are very few specialists who manage to protect the metal well and it begins to bloom in a couple of years. And the metal is not of the same quality as the Yapi used for their cars
in Vladik left-hand drive bodies, but he is different
Bodies with an integrated frame are in themselves both a body with all its functions, and the basis of the whole car, on which all the necessary equipment is hung. Damage to such a body can lead to the complete unusability of the entire vehicle, in addition, such vehicles are not designed for serious road and off-road loads.
A frame-type vehicle is a welded frame on which the engine, transmission, and body are fixed.In this case, the body is a spare part subject to replacement and deeper repair, since its malfunctions do not cause such damage to the performance of the entire vehicle as malfunctions of a body with an integrated frame. This design provides lifting capacity and cross-country ability, for example, to trucks. Hence the ability of the frame SUV to overcome more difficult obstacles and cope with more serious loads.
Having a sturdy frame does not mean that the body is maintenance-free. The car is quite serious, so you should not reduce its cost by bringing the body to a state where corrosion provides additional ventilation of the passenger compartment.
VIDEO VIDEO VIDEO
VIDEO
I am Grazh and absolutely all car repair work is done by me. New and interesting videos are constantly being added. Subscribe to my channel. Mobile radio ZELLO (213soldatas) Playlists: Hunting - Projects - Reviews - Garage - Weekdays - Renovation - Answer questions and I will be of sense to the subscribers of the channel. Negative comments are mercilessly removed, and commentators are blocked. If you have nothing good to say, then don't say anything better, and follow this rule for the rest of your life. Enjoy your viewing, your Grazh. #soldatas #Grazh
A video for those who have to deal with the repair of the frame and body of their Pajero 2. This car was produced in 1998, you can see the state of the car, how life ate it.
on one's own
the Japanese fell in love with the Spanish language, you see. for naming off-road models. at the same time, they never called jeepiki something bright and shocking in Spanish, like “chica bombs”. they decided to use a joke of humor. and that's what happened. if the “sports huntsman” (Spanish montero sport) is simply difficult to imagine, because usually this is a Daddy who does not attend all sorts of fitness with a gun, in felt boots and a hat with earflaps. then his twin "sports masturbator" (Spanish pajero sport) - perhaps you can imagine. but somehow shamelessly 🙂 the story with the “ears” in the ravine of this black montero on the photo is both banal and unusual at the same time: “I was driving, it started to skid, I listened to the music loudly and sang along, I couldn’t hold back. "Continuing the Spanish theme:" sing. fly. and end up in a ravine on a huntsman ”- in Spanish these are well-known lines (the Gypsy Kings won't let you lie): cantare-o-oo. volare-oh-oh-oh-oh. steering wheel. montero. Read more here: -volare. -baranko.-montero.html
toyota land cruyser 80 vs mitsubishi pajero 2 arsen
Turbine repair on Mitsubishi L200. Turbine repair on Mitsubishi L200 in St. Petersburg. Our company performs a truly professional repair of turbines in St. Petersburg. We check all engine systems related to the operation of the turbocharger. Our arsenal includes all the necessary equipment and tools, as well as experienced craftsmen. Even if the parts are no longer possible to restore, you will always find new parts with us. We are always happy to help! Diagnostics of automotive turbochargers; Repair of turbochargers and their restoration; Computer diagnostics of the engine; Sale of remanufactured turbines; Turbine repair on Mitsubishi L200
The Pajero adventure continues. Perhaps 5 years ago she should have left for analysis, but all this time, with varying frequency, we solemnly do not let her die, constantly patching up the problems that appear in her. This time - the rotten body supports. Pajer has such a problem - the floor at the feet of the front passenger and the driver rots and the body pillow supports rot in the same place. This problem was treated this time, as well as some others (and, looking ahead, I will say that they added several new ones :)).
It was decided to repair it in the Hot Rod Service Station on Dekabristov 269.
To begin with, the clunker was dismantled.
In addition to all this, the following problem was created and heroically overcome: in a hurry of analysis, the guys broke off the front brake pipe, which I did not have. For some reason, they did not dare to pin a piece of another pipe to it or to dissolve the coil and expand it. As a result, a tube from some other car, which is short in length ... but still works (later I will replace it with a normal one), was a titanic effort. All this on a body with an engine.
In addition, the following issues were resolved:
normally welded on the front protection cage nuts (for some reason, they left everything as it was at the back)
shortened the broken tube of the air conditioner and welded its end
fixed the battery crane bracket with mortgage rivets and bolts 2 times smaller than the standard diameter (already broken off)
adjusted the hood bumpers
repaired the fasteners of the mudguards with embedded rivets with bolts
Problems that appeared and could not be solved:
Total for details: 60434 RUR , despite the fact that brake pipes were purchased back in 2010 and their real price today is 2.5 times higher.
Total for all work with materials and parts: 139369r.
I look at this figure and something does not please me at all. Last year, the engine was changed to a contract engine with 78k mileage, with the replacement of the timing, oil seals, wires, clutch, etc. worth about 150,000 rubles. At this rate, one could buy another wad in average condition. Probably time to finish with repairs
2,5td (4D56) automatic transmission, 1994. There is sending to the regions. Write to private messages.
Auto concern MMC presented the world with an off-road champion. Reliable, uncompromising, ageless Pajero 2nd generation. Multiple winner of rally races. A car that has conquered not only off-road, but also the hearts of millions of motorists around the world. Unfortunately, his glorious accomplishments do not guarantee trouble-free operation. And the repair of Mitsubishi Pajero is as necessary as any other car.
At the first acquaintance, this frame SUV will declare its reliability and reliability. All parts are secured thoroughly, the chassis is very strong, it will never cause problems to the owner. The body is galvanized and shows a good anti-corrosion condition even after 20 years. The attachment arrangement allows you to sail across rivers, overcome off-road conditions.
Almost the entire Pajero is designed so that the motorist is able to make short-term repairs on his own. Credit goes to the design engineers as well as the people who wrote the service manual. The manual includes detailed information on the following points:
engine diagnostics;
running gear diagnostics;
replacement of consumables;
step-by-step repair of each unit separately and the entire unit as a whole.
In terms of mass availability, the operation manual fully corresponds to its ward, providing the motorist with comprehensive information on the Pajero 2 repair. The information content in the manual is such that even such difficult operations as the repair of the injection pump and the transfer case become transparent, understandable and, of course, feasible.
The Super Select Pajero 2 system hints at a cosmic origin. The abundance of gears, couplings, blockings is discouraging. And if some kind of breakdown occurs, then the first desire of the car owner is to find a good specialist. But is the transfer case really that complicated?
The malfunctions of the transfer case are summarized as follows.
The reason is simple - stretching the chain. On Pajero 2, this defect rarely manifests itself, but if it does, then it will have to be treated by completely removing the box and disassembling the entire distribution box.
Drain the oil completely from the box, carefully disconnect the associated wiring.
The front / rear propeller shafts must be disconnected.
Unscrew / disconnect the gearbox mount, transfer case.
The transfer case shift lever should be set to the 4H position.
Check point lever - put in the "neutral" position.
After that, you should unscrew the case, then remove the gearbox levers and hand-outs.
Purposefully knock the gearbox spring pin into the depths of the transfer case, from where it will not go anywhere.
Finally, the transfer case can be removed.
Next, remove the power take-off shaft cover, unscrew and remove the shank, unscrew and dismantle all related sensors.
Unscrew the bolts connecting the halves of the transfer case and separate it.
Everything, the distribution box is disassembled, the chain is available.
The old chain must be carefully removed from the transfer case together with the shafts on which it is attached. Just as neatly, the old chain is released, and the new one is installed in its place.
It is strictly forbidden to misalign and use a percussion instrument.
When installing a new chain in the bowels of the box, all shafts and gear links must be in harmony with each other. After installation, you should check the ease of rotation of the entire mechanism, this is done by manually acting on the shaft from the side corresponding to the mounting of the rear universal joint.
Assembling the transfer case and installing it in the appropriate place is carried out in the reverse order. The dispenser halves are sealed with a sealant, no gaskets. The connector between the gearbox and the transfer case is also lubricated with a sealant. The transmission oil volume does not exceed three liters. Additionally, you can use the diagrams presented in the instruction manual. They are very useful if there is a displacement of the shaft gears and need to be calibrated against the marks.
Another common and annoying problem is poor front-wheel drive performance. That is, the front wheels are not locked or not connected at all. There are several reasons for this behavior:
It is revealed by a careful visual examination of the wiring in the causal places. Or it can be detected by means of diagnostics at the service station. The most common damage to the wires is at the very root of the connection with the chips.
Then a pronounced metallic ringing, knocking and crunching will be heard at the same time. For repairs, you will need technical literature, a good car mechanic and an equally good turner.
It is checked quite simply. It is necessary to hang the car and try out different modes of operation of the all-wheel drive system. In this case, you should pay attention to how the front universal joint behaves.If the cardan is spinning and the wheels do not react, then the front clutch has ceased to function. If the gimbal does not spin, then the transfer case does not work.
This is a consequence of the destruction of the bearing on which the cardan is attached. It is checked by measuring the temperature on the transfer case housing at the bearing seat. To replace the bearing, it is not necessary to remove the entire transfer case, it is enough to disconnect the cardan.
In addition to the transfer case, the quality of the four-wheel drive can be affected by the operation of the LCD bridges. It is enough to pour the wrong oil into the axles and the coefficient of friction will change for the worse. Therefore, when operating Mitsubishi Pajero 2, it is necessary to carefully check all used consumables or repair materials for compliance with the requirements specified in the repair manual.
The high pressure fuel pump (TNVD) is a mechanism on which the operation of the entire car engine depends. A serviceable and correctly adjusted injection pump will give good dynamics, economical fuel consumption and engine durability. But a faulty injection pump will give the exact opposite effect. The high-pressure fuel pump is installed of two types:
There is little difference between these pumps. In a mechanical injection pump, the fuel supply is organized from the influence of a cable that is connected to the gas pedal. There is no cable in the electric injection pump, and an intelligent system generates a portion of fuel. Electric control has reduced fuel consumption while maintaining the Pajero's traction and dynamics. But motorists, who often wade through the terrain, prefer a mechanical injection pump for its reliability and durability.
Like any rotating mechanism working under pressure, the injection pump needs periodic maintenance. Maintenance consists of cleaning pump components and fuel strainers. Signs at which the injection pump should be cleaned:
poor engine start;
twitching at idle until the engine is warmed up;
abnormal, gray-blue exhaust smoke during engine warm-up.
In addition to cleaning, it is recommended to change the oil pump shaft seal, which can be easily removed and installed in the appropriate place. When disassembling, pay attention to the head of the bypass valve of the low pressure pump, there should be no dirt under it.
Next, it is necessary to remove the plunger pair and clean the strainer located at the fuel inlet to the plunger. The four plunger bolts should be loosened and tightened carefully, avoiding distortions. When viewed, the plunger should have sharp groove edges like a blade. Particular attention should be paid to the washer under the heel of the plunger pair, it is responsible for metering fuel and wears out very quickly.
The revision of the high-pressure fuel pump implies a 100% replacement of the sealing elements, which are very convenient to purchase with a ready-made repair kit in advance, before disassembling the unit. A motorist can disassemble and assemble the injection pump according to the scheme proposed in the repair manual, but as an addition it is recommended to take a photo or video. Video recording works like a long-term memory and allows you to return to a particular operation at any time.
All surfaces of the injection pump should be washed with clean diesel fuel, it is recommended to use compressed air for blowing, the rags should be made of a dense cloth. The presence of grains of sand and lint can negate all efforts to clean the pump and significantly reduce its efficiency.
Video in this article about removing the injection pump
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
Whatever the diagnosis of any unit being repaired, it should always be remembered that there are no desperate and unsolvable situations. But if it did happen, then without haste, rolling up your sleeves, armed with all the previous experience of car owners and qualified engineers, you need to take this situation into your own hands and return your pet to duty. The Mitsubishi Pajero repair manual and the recommendations above will come in handy.
