In detail: do-it-yourself repair of ice lamp panels from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Savings and design in lighting have brought cutting-edge technology to nearly every home. Many people change their common base chandeliers for economical LED products. Not everyone knows how to repair an LED lamp on their own, especially what parts it consists of inside. How to use the tool in case of breakdown, where to start the whole process. Let's try to figure out in detail what are the breakdowns in the devices and how to repair some LED chandeliers with our own hands.
Typical breakdowns: partial or complete lack of lighting, short blinking or spontaneous shutdown, failure. Reasons: The temperature has reached above 50 degrees, a break in the contact between the filament itself and the holder, if it is a paid option, and not a lamp one, peeling of the contacts on the board.
The LED is burnt out, partially or completely. Reason: Overvoltage in the network, capacitor burned out (breakdown). Usually breakage occurs in cheap board options.
There are additional reasons leading to the failure of the device, namely: a short circuit in the circuit, incorrect connection to the network, non-observance of the device connection diagram during installation.
Poor soldering of the contacts of the circuit, LEDs to the board, poor fastening of the wires in the base of the lamps. Weak soldering of conductive elements (wires, tires). Reason: Factory defect. The repair of many LED chandeliers with a control panel is carried out for this very reason.
Before repairing the LED light, the fixture must be removed. It will take some tool; thin screwdriver with a flat end, cruciform. If the connection was made using twists, you will need pliers with insulated handles, insulating tape and a multimeter to check the contacts. Tweezers come in handy when working with small parts.
Video (click to play).
You will need a soldering iron with a thin tip and solder (it is advisable to use a special nozzle). A drill with a 2.5 mm drill., It can also come in handy, disconnect the base of the lamp by drilling out the fasteners. Several thin wires 10 cm long.
Chandeliers appeared with a remote control not so long ago. Few people are familiar with their device. Repairing LED ceiling
x chandeliers need to know the design, just in general terms. Let's take a closer look at what it can consist of.
A simple LED chandelier consists of a body, a regulator unit, or a driver. It is used as a voltage rectifier. It contains terminals, or terminal clamps, to which the mains power is connected. Then wires run from the block to the lamps. They can be from one wire, for a regular lamp, up to 12 for a design version of the device.
A more complex version of the product, consists of an antenna, a control unit for the lighting itself, a voltage regulator or several
device depends on checking and repairing components.
Why is it necessary to know or find out the design before
Repairing an LED chandelier working without a remote control is easier. There is nothing complicated in it, they are assembled according to the same type: one or more diodes (a compact bridge is possible), electrolytes (capacitors), a pair of resistances (resistors), and a coil with a winding. This is the simplest scheme without protection, there are many options for them, but now we will analyze the simplest scheme.
After removing the lamp, inspect the board for visible defects, broken wires, oh
Remove the shade or decoration around the lamp, unscrew the lighting elements. Examine the base, burnt spots indicate poor contact. If there are any, try cleaning them with a knife.
Repack the terminal blocks, or twists, tighten the screws on all parts. Not finding visible defects, we proceed to inspect the lamps. The version of a block luminaire, where relays and lamps are next to each other on a large board, is considered as repairing the lamp described below.
Do-it-yourself LED chandelier repair begins with determining the location of the breakdown or breakage.
Fix the lamp with a smaller diameter plastic bottle by cutting and inserting the lamp into it.
It is better to supply power with a separate power supply, to the lamp, if it is 12 or 24 volts nominal. All undamaged LEDs in the circuit need to ring the device. But the way is easier, by connecting the lamp to the power supply to carry out simple manipulations
Alternately close (throw a jumper) the contacts of each LED with tweezers or a wire with stripped and tinned contacts.
The lamp will light up when you find (close the contacts) on the burned out LED. If this does not happen, see further down the chain.
Check the board for the cause of burnouts, swelling of capacitors, carefully check the tracks on the regulator board itself. Solder the broken contacts.
You cannot replace the LED with a jumper when there are less than 10 of them in the common circuit, the capacitors will overload, block LEDs will burn out when there are 3 of them in one case. They can be identified by three dark points, inside a yellow or white crystal.
Often the repair of LED chandeliers must be done due to overheating of the matrix itself. First, unscrew the fasteners and visually inspect the inside of the chandelier. Then they carefully try to move the board in place. It is determined whether there is a break in the wires from the control unit, whether the wire is burnt out from overvoltage. If burnt out, solder in place. We check all the details one by one.
Then you will need an original chandelier diagram. Without it, you can only repair the chandelier without a remote control. If there is a remote control unit, the batteries in it are replaced with new elements. LED chandeliers with a control panel are often found; here you will need an exact diagram of the chandelier controller to detect a breakdown.
The chandelier control unit is usually tightly sealed in a shell, and manufacturers draw diagrams on it. Only these are wiring diagrams and lighting elements.
There are also blocks with a collapsible body, then the option is simplified. With a non-collapsible unit, use a tester to call the output signal to the lighting elements (LEDs). In the absence of voltage supply, the reason may be a breakdown of the signal receiver. We disassemble it, visually check the contacts and tracks on the board, the integrity of the parts. If the voltage supply goes to one lighting branch, then there is a breakdown in the control unit, and not in the signal receiver itself.
The burned-out part can be evaporated and called, for a start, all the resistances (see the diagram) by putting the OMa icon on the device. Then the capacitance of the capacitors, since they have designations, polarity and type are also important when checking.
Designation on the diagram
If a discrepancy is found in the denomination, re-solder.
The chandelier control unit is responsible for the intensity and modes of combustion of the LED elements.Violation of one of the circuits (in the plafond version of the lamp) does not disable the unit, possibly a fuse has blown.
But still, check the blocks, if there are any melted spots on them, there is, replace it with a new one. If the wires are incorrectly connected, only the parts in the power supply are lit. The regulator unit is protected against excessive loads. It can be called according to the scheme.
Many models of regulators, drivers and power supplies for LED luminaires come with cooling heatsinks. They have a seat through which the microcircuit or other control element gives off heat. Most lamps have radiators.
Lack of special grease, thermal paste, the cause of overheating of most (up to 15%) boards and blocks. Unscrew and check if it is applied along the plane of the seat.
The thermal paste is applied in a thin layer over the entire surface of the seat, a large amount will only worsen the heat transfer. By screwing an additional thin aluminum plate to the radiator, it is possible to increase the heat transfer, while the installation is carried out without blocking the main air flows passing through it.
As you can see, there is nothing unusual in the repair of LED ceiling chandeliers, no. It is not so difficult to do it yourself. It takes a little patience, a little practice and a tin of knowledge. Of course, the variety of lamps, lamps and all kinds of chandeliers will not make us bored during the renovation process. But in this number of details, the exact diagram of the LED chandelier and, of course, a great desire will help us figure it out.
VIDEO VIDEO With the advent of LED technology, lighting systems have taken to a whole new level. Economical, environmentally friendly and electrically safe devices are used everywhere today - they have replaced the standard "Ilyich lamps" and the popular "housekeepers". The former have long been outdated from a moral point of view, the latter are extremely hazardous to health due to the mercury vapor contained inside.
Despite the long service life, even such devices fail over time. In some situations, expensive repair of LED lamps can be done independently, at home, which we will consider further.
Before disassembling a failed LED lamp into its component parts, be sure to study its structure and principle of operation. Standard equipment of this type includes an electronic power supply board, a light filter and a housing with a base. Cheaper models use conventional capacitors instead of current and voltage limiters.
One lamp can have several dozen LEDs that are connected in series or in parallel. In the second case, the design turns out to be expensive (a separate resistor is connected to each led diode or group), so not everyone can afford it.
The principle of operation of an LED is almost identical to a semiconductor element. The current between the anode and cathode travels in a straight line, which leads to the formation of a glow. Each LED individually is characterized by a minimum power, which is why several pieces are used at once. To create the desired luminous flux, a phosphor coating is used, which transforms the light into a spectrum visible to the human eye.
High-quality models contain a high-tech driver that performs the function of a converter along with a diode group. The primary voltage goes to a transformer that reduces the characteristics of the current. At the output of the element, we get the constant current necessary to power the led diodes. In order to reduce ripple in the circuit, an auxiliary capacitor is used.
Despite the numerous varieties, differences in devices, the number of LEDs used, all lighting devices of this type are characterized by the same design, which simplifies their maintenance.
There are several possible malfunctions of LED devices, which is associated with their albeit similar, but rather complex design. The most common breakdowns among the rest are accompanied by the following points:
complete absence of glow;
periodic lack of lighting;
short-term flickering;
turning off the light at random moments;
damage to a light bulb or LED.
There are even more reasons for the appearance of breakdowns. The most common of them are the following:
Violation of the rules and recommendations for the operation of LED devices. When buying a new lamp, be sure to study the conditions for its operation, prescribed in the technical manual. If you ignore any rule, the probability of breakdowns increases several times.
Overheating of equipment. By themselves, the LEDs practically do not heat up in operation, but if the temperature exceeds the declared 50-60 degrees, then the filament, holder or peeling of contacts on the electronic board may occur. Overheating sometimes occurs due to the fact that a luminaire not intended for these purposes is installed inside the stretch ceiling. This prevents it from cooling naturally.
Burnout led diode - full or partial. This can lead to high voltage surges in the network or a burnout of the capacitor.
Important! The last breakdown is relevant for cheap devices that use low-quality boards.
If you go deeper, then you can identify several other, more rare, but no less interesting reasons, due to which the LED lamp may not work:
technical violations when connecting to the power supply;
short circuit;
incorrect installation of equipment;
errors in the construction of elements in the connection diagram;
poor quality product - when trying to save money, do not forget that you are buying a "pig in a poke".
In such devices, the contacts may be initially poorly soldered, or a cheap capacitor is used instead of the driver. This is a so-called manufacturing defect.
LED ceiling lights with a remote control often fail due to factory defects. Thus, in order to carry out repairs, it is important to correctly establish not only the breakdown, but also the cause of its occurrence.
To carry out high-quality repairs that guarantee the serviceability of the product and its long-term operation in the future, painstaking preparation is required. First, dismantle the chandelier, wall lamp. In the case of table lamps, simply unplug them from the mains supply. In the future, some tools and materials will come in handy, including a screwdriver, pliers, electrical tape, a knife. Pliers or pliers come in handy if the device body is connected using special twists. Use a multimeter to check the contacts.
Since LEDs are small in size, tweezers are useful for manipulating them. Subsequently, if an open circuit is detected or an element needs to be replaced, a soldering iron may be required. In order to replace LED diodes, use a drill with a variety of drills.
Do not forget that each tool must be electrically insulated - it is forbidden to work with pliers or pliers with bare metal handles.
Remote control LED pendant lights are relatively new. Their device is not familiar to everyone, so we will briefly consider the design of the devices.
In the simplest configuration, an LED chandelier consists of a body (metal, plastic, glass), a block with a regulator (driver).The last element is used as a voltage rectifier; terminals and clamps are placed on it, to which power is supplied from the industrial network. The power supply is connected to the lamps with wires.
In complex chandeliers, an antenna, a control unit, a regulator (several units) are used, which is necessary for automatic tuning. Raster lighting fixtures contain several drivers and LED lamps of various kinds. The repair sequence directly depends on the specific type of luminaire.
Study the design of the device using the instructions supplied with it to figure out where the control units are. They can be installed both inside and outside the product.
Repairing a chandelier without a remote control is much easier. In such a device, a diode or diode bridge with electrolytes and resistors is installed. There is also a coil with winding to reduce ripple.
To properly repair your outdoor or indoor luminaire, follow the step-by-step instructions:
Remove the device from the ceiling or wall and remove the enclosure cover.
Examine the electronic circuit to make out visible defects (or confirm their absence). These include wire breaks.
Remove shade and other decorative hardware ornaments, and unscrew LED bulbs, if used.
Examine the plinth for burnt spots. You can use a regular knife for stripping.
Perform the twisting again, tighten all the screws on the elements that are attached to the board. If there are no visible defects, examine the lamp directly.
Let's take a look at the easiest method to test an LED circuit. First, secure the lamp using a cut plastic bottle with a smaller diameter. A lamp is inserted into it. To supply power, use the auxiliary power supply (in the case of a 12 or 24 V device).
Instead of ringing each LED diode in the circuit, you can resort to a simpler method. Place a jumper between the pins of each diode in turn using tweezers. If there is no jumper, then take any wire, having previously stripped both ends and tinned the contacts.
It is important that the lamp is connected to the network at this moment. As soon as you close the contacts on the burned out LED, the device will light up. If this does not happen, then it is possible that more than one diode has burned out.
Continue visual inspection of the circuit and look for burnout spots, swollen capacitors, examine each track on the board. Solder if any broken contacts are found. If the circuit consists of 10 or less elements, then in no case replace the burned out LED with a wire or a jumper. This can overload the coils and burn out diodes.
Most often, the reason for the breakdown of a chandelier with a remote control is overheating of the matrix. In such a situation, repairs are carried out as follows:
Remove and disassemble the chandelier.
Find out the cause of the breakdown - find the burned out elements.
If you need to replace components and perform soldering, be sure to study the device diagram attached to the warranty card.
The controller, antenna or control unit may burn out. In this case, a banal replacement of a failed product is required.
VIDEO
Most LED lighting fixtures come with heat sinks. The presence of this element is a sign of the high quality of the device. In these products, a special seat is allocated, and a radiator is used to remove heat. The thermal paste needs to be replaced periodically. If this is not done, then over time the heatsink will lose its efficiency and the board or block will burn out. Disassemble the device and make sure the thermal grease is applied to both planes of the seat.
If necessary, apply a thin layer of special grease yourself to the entire surface of the seat. Too much thermal paste affects heat transfer as negatively as its absence. To increase the heat output, you can screw an additional aluminum plate to the radiator, making sure that it does not block the main airflow.
Do-it-yourself high-quality repair of LED light sources is possible subject to compliance with safety rules and the presence of a structural diagram of the electrical appliance. The article described in detail the main causes and types of malfunctions, and gave recommendations for their search and elimination.
Before proceeding with the repair of a 220 or 12 volt light bulb, you need to familiarize yourself with its device. As mentioned above, the design is extremely simple. The lamp can be conditionally divided into three parts: a body with a base and a light filter, a power supply board for LEDs, and an LED module.
Having carefully disassembled the case, the insides of the electronic circuit will open in front of you. Most of the Chinese manufacturers of inexpensive devices such as corn and similar LED light emitters install transformerless capacitor current sources. In these circuits, the capacitor acts as a current and voltage limiter.
For the information of the reader, we will say that the operating voltage of one LED is 3.3 Volts, and the current of the semiconductor crystal is about 20-50 μA, depending on the type of diode. If these parameters are overestimated, the diode will overheat and the crystal will break through and fail.
How LED bulbs work. Sequentially in a chain of 50-60 LEDs are soldered together, together forming a light-emitting element for a voltage of 180 volts. A power capacitor with a resistor limits the current and voltage to the required level.
Often, manufacturers of such devices are deliberately deceiving, and this is what: if you increase the current through the crystal above the operating rating, but within reasonable limits, then the radiation from the diode will increase. In this regard, the heat generation will also become higher, with which you can fight for a short time. This trick favorably distinguishes them from competitors, due to the higher brightness with the same declared power. However, it results in a drop in light emission or destruction over time and bitter disappointment for the user.
So, having an idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe electronic circuitry of our LED lamp that does not work, we will consider how to repair it at home.
First of all, we make a visual inspection of the microcircuit and the diodes themselves. In 80% of cases, a burned-out LED is a breakdown. To carry out repairs, you first need to find a diode that visually differs from the rest, for example, by the presence of a pronounced black point, as shown in the photo below, and then replace it with a new one.
Video tutorial on repairing an LED light bulb in which an LED burned out:
VIDEO The current limiting resistor may also burn out. Working capacitors rarely fail, breaking down the remaining elements of the LED device.
Once you are studying this page, we hope that you have a soldering iron and a basic understanding of electronics. Now about the troubleshooting technique. The diode can be checked both with a multimeter and with a crown with a 1 kOhm limiting resistor. By alternately placing the wiring on the leads of the LED, the serviceable one will shine. A multimeter in the dial position will also make the LED light up, subject to polarity.
If no problem is identified with the light emitter, we check the limiting resistor with a tester, in most circuits its nominal value is about 100-200 ohms. We recommend watching more complex repairs in the video:
VIDEO Also, the scourge of modern circuits is such a thing as "cold soldering". This is when, over time, contact breaks down in a poorly filled tin soldering point.
The circuit breaks down physically and breaks the integrity of the circuit, with the result that the LED lamp will not turn on.The breakdown can be repaired by reheating the place of contact with the application of flux to it.
Rare faults are rectifier diode or capacitor breakdown that occurs during power surges. With the help of a tester, you can establish this thoroughly. Having identified the cause and replacing the burnt out element, you can return the lamps to working condition. You can learn more about how to check a capacitor in our related article.
In more expensive LED devices, instead of a capacitor power supply, there is a switching power supply that automatically adjusts to the voltage in the network, and by adjusting it, it keeps a constant voltage and current at the output, preventing the diode crystals from overheating, providing a long service life and a constant luminous flux.
The troubleshooting method is practically no different from the above, and most likely it will be cold soldering on any of the elements. In this case, repairing an LED lamp will not be difficult.
If the diode lamp does not light up or flickers, it is far from always the reason for its malfunction. In most cases, the blinking is due to the fact that it is connected to a backlit switch. In this case, you can solve the problem by replacing the switch with a regular one. Also, as a repair, you can consider another simple way to fix the problem - turn off the backlight on the switch by disconnecting the diode bulb in it.
However, sometimes the lamp may still blink because something came off in it, for example, the wire from the base was sealed off. In this case, it is quite simple to repair it using the following technology:
VIDEO After reading our article, you may have such a question, is it possible to assemble such a light source yourself? You can, this is exactly what I did, before I started using factory LEDs, and then because of the specifics of the chandelier and design. Using an LED strip and a reworked electronic transformer, a desktop lamp was made with two modes of operation. Later, a night light was made on one powerful three-volt diode and a decorative sconce made of twine.
You can also learn how to make an LED light bulb in our separate publication. We hope you are interested in this article, not only with the possibility of repairing an LED lamp with your own hands, but also with the idea of creating beautiful and unusual light sources!
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Dmitry Melekhin 11.01.2018, 09:28 2.8k Views Light sources of this category are in great demand on the modern market. They consume a small amount of energy, are durable and resistant to various external influences. However, any technical device can fail during operation. A factory defect, which may appear after the end of the official warranty period, cannot be ruled out. Do-it-yourself qualified repair of LED lamps will help to fix the problem at no extra cost. This article provides technologies for restoring device operability at home with step-by-step instructions and explanations.
It should be noted right away that lamps with such LEDs (filament) cannot be repaired. In them, the flask is filled with an inert gas, and the manufacturers keep the exact composition secret. High-quality reproduction of industrial technology at home is impossible.
They are all made from standard, inexpensive LEDs that can be purchased easily. Typical tools are suitable for checking and performing work operations. The simplest special devices for dismantling and subsequent assembly can be made by hand.
It makes no sense to study physical processes in detail. Suffice it to say that in this case the light source is a specialized semiconductor device. It emits light when applied to a constant voltage of several volts at a relatively low current strength.This means that rectification and limitation of the corresponding electrical parameters will be required. The presence of a p-n junction indicates the possibility of clarifying the operability using a typical test of a conventional diode.
A driver is an electronic circuit that rectifies the voltage, limits the current to its nominal value. The required number of LEDs is installed on a substrate with a heat sink for heat dissipation. The diffuser eliminates irregularities in the luminous flux and excessive brightness of individual emitting elements.
In this simplest 220V LED lamp driver circuitry, capacitor C1 together with resistor R1 reduce the voltage to the desired value. It is determined by the number of LEDs connected in series. On each of them, the voltage drop is about 3 V (the exact value is indicated in the technical data sheet of the device). After the diode bridge, the remaining ripple is smoothed out by the capacitor C2. Resistors R3, R4 limit the inrush current when connected to the power supply. When the lamp turns off, the parallel capacitor is quickly discharged through R2.
In the circuit under consideration, the simplest electronic components are used that rarely fail. According to statistics, the most often damaged electrolytic smoothing capacitor. Problems arise if parts are used "sparingly" without a voltage margin.
Insufficient quality soldered joints are also encountered. They are destroyed after several on / off cycles as a result of thermal expansion / contraction. Repair of LED lamps may be needed more often if they are installed in a room with high humidity. In lamps of this type, there are no contact groups that are damaged by the formation of a film of oxides. Therefore, here, too, the cause of breakdown will be defective soldering.
Sometimes heat dissipation is poorly organized. Under such conditions, LEDs are unable to perform their functions for a long time. It is unacceptable if a plastic fake is installed instead of a metal radiator. It makes sense to repair such products only with a complete replacement of unusable parts of the structure. In case of incompetent assembly, they "save" thermal paste or do not use it at all. In this case, even a high-quality aluminum radiator will not perform its functions with maximum efficiency.
To eliminate doubts, check 220 V directly in the cartridge. To do this, use a multimeter, a phase probe (a screwdriver with a built-in phase indicator), or screw in another workable lamp.
With a variety of lighting devices on the counters of the country, LEDs remain out of competition due to their efficiency and durability. However, a high-quality product is not always purchased, because in a store you cannot disassemble the goods for inspection. And in this case, it is not a fact that everyone will determine from what parts it is assembled. Lamps burn out, and it becomes expensive to buy new ones. The solution is to repair LED lamps with your own hands. This work is within the power of even a novice home craftsman, and the details are inexpensive. Today we will figure out how to check the lighting device, in what cases the product is repaired and how to do it.
It is known that LEDs cannot work directly from a 220 V network. To do this, they need additional equipment, which, most often, fails. We will talk about him today. Consider the circuit of an LED driver, without which the operation of the lighting device is impossible. Along the way, we will conduct an educational program for those who do not understand anything in electronics.
The 220V LED lamp driver circuit consists of:
diode bridge;
resistances;
resistors.
The diode bridge serves to rectify the current (converting it from alternating to direct current). On the graph, this looks like a cut-off of a half-wave of a sine wave.Resistances limit current, and capacitors store energy by increasing the frequency. Consider the principle of operation on the circuit of a 220 V LED lamp.
Having understood the principle of operation and the driver circuit, the decision on how to fix a 220V LED lamp will no longer seem difficult. If we talk about high-quality lighting devices, then you should not expect trouble from them. They work for the entire prescribed period and do not fade, although there are "diseases" to which they are also susceptible. Let's talk about how to deal with them.
To make it easier to understand the reasons, we summarize all the data in one common table.
Good to know! Repair of LED fixtures is impossible to carry out indefinitely. It is much easier to eliminate negative factors affecting durability and not to purchase cheap products. Savings today will cost you tomorrow. As economist Adam Smith said, "I'm not rich enough to buy cheap things."
Before you repair an LED lamp with your own hands, pay attention to some details that require less labor. Checking the cartridge and the voltage in it is the first thing to do.
Important! Repair of LED lamps requires a multimeter - without it, it will not be possible to ring the driver elements. A soldering station is also required.
A soldering station is required for the repair of LED chandeliers and lighting fixtures. After all, overheating of their elements leads to failure. The heating temperature during soldering should be no higher than 2600, while the soldering iron heats up more. But there is a way out. We use a piece of copper core with a cross section of 4 mm, which is wound around the tip of the soldering iron with a tight spiral. The more you lengthen the sting, the lower its temperature. Convenient if the multimeter has a thermometer function. In this case, it can be adjusted more precisely.
But before you repair LED spotlights, chandeliers or lamps, you need to determine the cause of the failure.
One of the problems that a novice home craftsman faces is how to disassemble an LED light bulb. To do this, you need an awl, solvent and a syringe with a needle. The diffuser of the LED lamp is glued to the body with a sealant that must be removed. Passing carefully along the edge of the diffuser with an awl, inject the solvent with a syringe. After 2 ÷ 3 minutes, lightly twisting, the diffuser is removed.
Some lighting fixtures are made without gluing with a sealant. In this case, it is enough to turn the diffuser and remove it from the housing.
Having disassembled the lighting fixture, pay attention to the LED elements. Burned is often identified visually: there are burn marks or black dots on it. Then we change the faulty part and check the functionality. We will describe the replacement in detail in the step-by-step instructions.
If the LED elements are in order, go to the driver. To check the performance of its parts, you need to solder them from the printed circuit board. The value of the resistors (resistances) is indicated on the board, and the parameters of the capacitor are indicated on the case. When dialing with a multimeter in the appropriate modes, there should be no deviations. However, often failed capacitors are determined visually - they swell or burst. The solution is to replace it with a suitable one in terms of technical parameters.
Replacing capacitors and resistances, unlike LEDs, is often performed with a conventional soldering iron. In this case, you should be careful not to overheat the nearest contacts and elements.
If you have a soldering station or a hair dryer, this job is simple. It is more difficult to work with a soldering iron, but it is also possible.
Good to know! If there are no working LED elements at hand, you can install a jumper instead of the burnt one. Such a lamp will not work for a long time, but it will be possible to win some time.However, such repairs are made only if the number of elements is more than six. Otherwise, the day is the maximum work of the repair product.
Modern lamps run on SMD LED elements that can be soldered out of an LED strip. But it is worth choosing those that are suitable for technical characteristics. If there are none, it is better to change everything.
Related article:
LED characteristics ... Information about modern models, electrical circuits of working devices will come in handy. In this article, you will find answers to these and other practical questions.
If the driver consists of smaller SMD components, use a copper wire soldering iron on the tip. A visual inspection revealed a burnt element - we solder it and select the one that matches the marking. No visible damage is more difficult. We'll have to solder all the details and ring them separately. Having found the burnt one, we change it to a workable one and mount the elements in place. It is convenient to use tweezers for this.
Useful advice! Do not remove all elements from the PCB at the same time. They are similar in appearance, you can later confuse the location. It is better to solder the elements one at a time and, after checking, mount them in place.
When installing lighting in rooms with high humidity (bathroom or kitchen), stabilizing power supplies are used, which lower the voltage to a safe one (12 or 24 volts). The stabilizer can fail for several reasons. The main ones are excessive load (power consumption of the luminaires) or the wrong choice of the degree of protection of the unit. Such devices are repaired in specialized services. At home, this is unrealistic without the availability of equipment and knowledge in the field of radio electronics. In this case, the power supply unit will have to be replaced.
Very important! All work on replacing the stabilizing LED power supply is carried out with the voltage removed. Do not rely on the switch - it may be incorrectly wired. The voltage is disconnected in the distribution board of the apartment. Remember that touching live parts with your hand is life-threatening.
You need to pay attention to the technical characteristics of the device - the power must exceed the parameters of the lamps that are powered from it. Having disconnected the failed unit, we connect a new one according to the diagram. It can be found in the technical documentation of the device. This is not difficult - all wires are color-coded, and the contacts are letter designation.
Plays the role and degree of protection of the device (IP). For a bathroom, the device must be marked at least IP45.
Related article:
12V power supply for LED strip ... In this publication, we will consider the types of devices, how to calculate them correctly, how to do it yourself, how to connect, popular models.
If the reason for the flickering of the LED lamp is the failure of the capacitor (it needs to be replaced), then periodic blinking when the light is off is easier to solve. The reason for this "behavior" of the luminaire is the backlight-indicator on the switch key.
The capacitor located in the driver circuit accumulates voltage, and when the limit is reached, it gives out a discharge. The key backlight transmits a small amount of electricity, which does not in any way affect incandescent bulbs or "halogens", but this voltage is enough for the capacitor to start accumulating it. At a certain moment, it gives out a discharge to the LEDs, after which it switches back to accumulation. There are two ways to solve this problem:
We take out the key from the switch and turn off the backlight. The method is simple, but indications that add value to the switch are no longer useful.
We disassemble the chandelier and change the phase wire with zero places on each cartridge. The method is more complicated, but it retains the functionality of the switch. In the dark, you can see it well, and this is a plus.
Not only LED lamps, but also CFLs are susceptible to flashing. The device of their PRU (starting-regulating device) works on a similar principle, which allows the capacitor to store energy.
Video (click to play).
Consider an example of a simple LED lamp repair:
The absence of such is a good sign.
The absence of such is a good sign.
