In detail: do-it-yourself chamber repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Who can tell if it is possible to repair the chamber 7.62 * 54? Problem-blowing sleeve
quote: Originally posted by RFP:
Who can tell if it is possible to repair the chamber 7.62 * 54? Problem-blowing sleeve
Cannot be repaired. Cut and re-bore - it is possible, depending on which weapon.
You can also grind it in with a cast-iron cone with a slightly larger angle - the extraction will improve.
True, the cartridge case from this chamber can no longer be damaged. 
——————
Today you cannot trust anyone, not even yourself.
I can.
quote: Originally posted by RFP:
Who can tell if it is possible to repair the chamber 7.62 * 54? Problem-blowing sleeve
Can I see a photo? And then it blows, as it is vague. 
quote: Originally posted by mixmix:
Can I see a photo? And then it blows, as it is vague.
In-in! Can't it be about the chamber, but about the mirror gap?
I can not upload a photo yet, not my trunk, but a friend's. The trunk from Mosin. If you cut and sharpen again, how to bore the chamber? He talked with the turner, he says that he used to do this: first he bored it on the rough one, then ran it with a reamer in the shape of the sleeve. This pribluda burned out and he rubs in that it is impossible to cut it with a chisel. it is thin and folds it back.
What other options are there?
None. In the Russian Federation, these actions are illegal.
you have an interesting turner
the scan has that a very bad kopanin has gone, that even the sleeves do not come out, coat with grease
quote: Originally posted by vano-sha:
grease with grease
And tie to a tree! So that your hands are not torn off! 🙂
So that the "three-line" under the potatoes did not rust, the garden had to be watered with machine oil! It seems to me that we are talking about an inset barrel from a fossil mosink - to drown this muck immediately, health will be more expensive so it will deploy with a smooth chamber together maybe on the fifth or maybe on the twenty-fifth shot. And it's easier with the law.
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Video (click to play). |
Who can make a reamer for repairing the chamber 7.62 * 54 is in the States, but it seemed very expensive to my master. The problem is blowing the sleeve in one direction.
Your foreman (if he is a foreman) should know that this defect cannot be cured by simply deploying the chamber. It is also necessary to push the barrel deeper in the receiver in order to maintain the necessary gap between the bottom of the sleeve and the shutter mirror. So, first find out if it is possible to siege the barrel deeper in this structure, and only then look for a reamer. Such repairs entail re-testing the weapon at the test station (re-branding). Good luck!
quote: Originally posted by map:
Your foreman (if he is a foreman) should know that this defect cannot be cured by simply deploying the chamber. It is also necessary to push the barrel deeper in the receiver in order to maintain the necessary gap between the bottom of the sleeve and the shutter mirror. So, first find out if it is possible to siege the barrel deeper in this structure, and only then look for a reamer. Such repairs entail re-testing the weapon at the test station (re-branding). Good luck!
My master and I all know that. The trunk can be planted deeper. Hmm, I think we can do without retesting, while not everything is as strict as yours in Germany. It will be enough to re-shoot into the bullet casing. So you can help with the sweeps or not, otherwise the Merikos asked for a lot. Here is the original answer to my request.
The 7.62mm x 54R is a standard stock tool. The cost for this would be
$ 179.00 (U.S.) each (Rougher or Finisher), plus $ 35.00 (U.S.) shipping.
Please let us know if you would like to place an order or if we can be of
further assistance. We accept Visa, MasterCard, Discover, and American
Express. You can phone or FAX your credit card information to us. Our local
number is (248) 853-5555. Our FAX number is (248) 853-1530. Thank you for
your interest. - Ken -
Cheap is not good.
The prices are standard.
quote: Originally posted by wood grouse:
Cheap is not good.
The prices are standard.
You want to say that with us the production of this scan will cost the same amount, it is unlikely that 6000 rubles is a completely adequate price, albeit for an accurate but still a tool.
quote: Originally posted by wood grouse:
Cheap is not good.
The prices are standard.
And also the prices are standard for the states, probably, but for Russia, I hardly imagine in general, because of my specialty obtained at the institute, what is it like to grind a reamer to a given size on a cylindrical grinder. Taking into account the standard salary of a hard worker, not in Moscow, but in central Russia, 5000-6000 thousand rubles vryali, it costs a whole salary per month.
Andrey, they won't do it at all, or the size will be screwed up. And you will only discover this when you check by shooting.
quote: Originally posted by Mink:
Andrey, they won't do it at all, or the size will be screwed up. And you will only discover this when you check by shooting.
You, too, will screw up, tell me you can do something like that, you know why I need it
Let no one make you a scan in Russia.
Vset is a tool with very small tolerances and subsequent heat treatment.
At the plant they will say 1000 pieces, then we'll take it.
I am silent about the quality.
And first make a drawing with tolerances, accuracy classes and degree of hardening.
And it is not easy to grind, but also to sharpen all cutting edges without breaking
tolerances.
Good luck.
In America, they still fight like a god. Here is a set of necessary tools and prices for it. 
ipec:
quote: Originally posted by wood grouse:
Let no one make you a scan in Russia.
Vset is a tool with very small tolerances and subsequent heat treatment.
At the plant they will say 1000 pieces, then we'll take it.
I am silent about the quality.
And first make a drawing with tolerances, accuracy classes and degree of hardening.
And it is not easy to grind, but also to sharpen all cutting edges without breaking
tolerances.
Good luck.
Thank you, sorry for misunderstanding the topic.
Sincerely
quote: Originally posted by map:
In America, they still fight like a god. Here is a set of necessary tools and prices for it.
Where I look forward to
So a set for one caliber costs from 1,500 to 2,000 Euros.
quote: Originally posted by map:
So a set for one caliber costs from 1,500 to 2,000 Euros.
And why they placed the monitor upside down, I had to turn the monitor from my head to my ass in order to see the prices and really not weak in general, I will settle with Gerud, I will probably order from the Merikos, I need to pick up a tool for old age so that I have something to earn for bread.
Do not forget, design changes and mechanical intervention in the main parts and parts of the weapon is licensed.
For unauthorized interference, is punishable by law.
I rent this instrument as needed. Two weeks costs about 100 euros. Buying a kit for making one gun is unwise.
quote: Originally posted by wood grouse:
Do not forget, design changes and mechanical intervention in the main parts and parts of the weapon is licensed.
For unauthorized interference, is punishable by law.
Um, I remember, local however.
quote: Originally posted by map:
I rent this instrument as needed. Two weeks costs about 100 euros. Buying a kit for making one gun is unwise.
Lucky! I really liked your combo, I already caught fire and sat down to draw, then I realized that it is unrealistic with us, and the law is strict in general, I will do it on the basis of TOZ34.
quote: Originally posted by BadFox:
Lucky! I really liked your combo, I already caught fire and sat down to draw, then I realized that it is unrealistic with us, and the law is strict in general, I will do it on the basis of TOZ34.
Why are you talking?
Combinator.
quote: Originally posted by errrero:
Why are you talking?
Combinator.
quote: Originally posted by BadFox:
quote: Originally posted by errrero:
Duc you live in Russia.
One of these days I'll send you money for the butt
Only two months later.
quote: Originally posted by errrero:
Only two months later.
Yes, I know, I just have a break with shoulder straps over
quote: Originally posted by wood grouse:
Let no one make you a scan in Russia.
Vset is a tool with very small tolerances and subsequent heat treatment.
At the plant they will say 1000 pieces, then we'll take it.
I am silent about the quality.
And first make a drawing with tolerances, accuracy classes and degree of hardening.
And it is not easy to grind, but also to sharpen all cutting edges without breaking
tolerances.
Good luck.
I am ready to subscribe under every word. It couldn't be better. Is it possible to try to get a ready-made instrument, for example, from Izhevsk.
quote: Originally posted by Mink:
I am ready to subscribe under every word. It couldn't be better. Is it possible to try to get a ready-made instrument, for example, from Izhevsk.
Work for the average hand of a grinder and sharpener, of which there is at least a set at each plant. It's all about the wishes of the customer. Whoever wants will always find.
quote: Originally posted by errrero:
Work for the average hand of a grinder and sharpener, of which there is at least a set at each plant. It's all about the wishes of the customer. Whoever wants will always find.
[QUOTE] The originals of the post would be capercaillie:
[B]
BadFox
You need not just a sweep, but a set of sweeps. And, indeed, such a set can be easily ordered and manufactured at any serious enterprise where there is a good tool shop.
But the question is not in the manufacture, but in the competent technical documentation. I am 100% convinced that no one will be able to produce the necessary blueprints and technical maps the first time. Such ingenious toolmakers simply do not exist in nature! Usually, sets of such a tool are made several times, checking each set in practice and making adjustments to the documentation until the desired quality of the tool is obtained. Do you have such an opportunity? Make a kit, deploy the svtvol, stick in a cartridge, shoot, understand what went wrong and why, make changes to the drawings and everything is new. And so 5-10 times, and maybe more.
It is clear that this option is unlikely to suit you. He, calculated and justified only for the massive deployment of such trunks
Therefore, I see only two acceptable options: either order from those who have already licked the manufacturing technology of such a tool to perfection (this is an expensive foreign country, or our arms factories, which will immediately send you to the farm to catch butterflies), or send this whole venture tries. I would choose the latter.
Yes, I also don’t believe that it’s easy to find craftsmen and equipment in the modern Russian Federation.
Metalworking has become a kind of insoluble problem. In contrast to "decayed socialism", when almost everything could be ordered for a couple of bottles and a little money.
Sorry for the flame. Just a cry from the heart.
quote: Originally posted by wood grouse:
Go here:
I didn't find they had the right caliber
To broaden the general horizons. These are the minimum sets of tools for the manufacture or repair of various calibers:
map
Please tell us, if possible, in more detail, the process itself. Very interesting. Those. how do you clamp the tables, what do you clamp the reamer into (floating or rigid mandrel), how do you set the alignment of the mandrel and the barrel, manually unroll or machine, etc.?
[QUOTE] The originals would be those:
[B] map
Please tell us, if possible, in more detail, the process itself. Very interesting. Those. how do you clamp the tables, what do you clamp the reamer into (floating or rigid mandrel), how do you adjust the alignment of the mandrel and the barrel, manually unroll or machine, etc.? [/ B] [/ QUOTE]
Dear TEX, To describe in detail the whole process of making the barrel, alas, I probably will not master this: I type with one finger and very slowly, and even in Latin - such a masochism.) And in short, it looks like this. The preliminary deployment of the chamber is carried out simultaneously with the processing of the outer contour of the barrel. For this, the so-called Schrupen-Reibale is used, it is done on a lathe. Then, I clamp the almost finished barrel in a vice and manually begin to deploy the Fore-raibal chamber to a certain depth. The final adjustment of the chamber is carried out by Fertig-Reibals on an almost ready assembled weapon with a finally fitted bolt, receiver, etc. This is always done manually, very slowly and every second being checked with a special tool. An error of 0.05mm can negate all the work done.The weapon will simply be rejected at the test station, and you will not receive the coveted stamp on the weapon, and without it, the use (operation) of the barrel is unacceptable.
If it is difficult to describe, then at least tell me, please, where can you read about it?
[QUOTE] The originals would be those:
[B] If it is difficult to describe, then at least tell me, please, where can I read about it? [/ B] [/ QUOTE]
Do not know.
Dear, it is not difficult to make a scan, by the way, an optical-grinding one and gives microns in tolerance. Not so long ago there was an order for regrinding drills at work (one diameter-cone-other diameter). It is more difficult with the backing of the cutting edges. And at a price in Krasnoyarsk somewhere around 4-5 thousand rubles. In my opinion it is easier to buy “branded” ones. Respectfully.
quote: Originally posted by BadFox:
Who can make a reamer for repairing the chamber 7.62 * 54 is in the States, but it seemed very expensive to my master. The problem is blowing the sleeve in one direction.
This problem is not solved by deploying the chamber. As, by the way, is the problem in the case of deep corrosion of the chamber, which is also fraught with difficulties with the extraction of the spent cartridge case.
They just grind out a few completely primitive-shaped laps (cast iron) and wipe the chamber with three types of pastes (by grain size). Nuance: the linear dimensions of the chamber remain unchanged, but the angle of the cone, of course, increases somewhat. That's all.
The work is done with guaranteed quality in any kitchen, let alone a garage. Shooting casings - for ejection, or reload ONLY FOR THIS carbine.
Three lines and hard drives with the help of this technology have been saved immeasurably!
It only seems to me that Fox's words: “blowing the sleeve” are crafty.
quote: Originally posted by drachun:
It only seems to me that Fox's words: “blowing the sleeve” are crafty.
That's for sure, the sleeve is blowing, the grooves are worn out - give a broach.
The next question will be about the deep hole drill.
Fox! Look, they'll put you in jail!
Topic: Chromium-plating of the chamber - Malfunctions, repair, maintenance of weapons - All about weapons - Main section - Forums of the Open Club St. Petersburg Hunter
Yesterday I was shooting new chiseled brass sleeves 20x76 under chewing. Gunpowder Sunar 35 - 1.4 grams, two powder, two fiberboard wad, powder, fiberboard wad, self-made container from a beer bottle:, fraction unit 28.2 grams, additional felt wad instead of a plug. Cylinder head.
At 35 meters, all the shot is in a circle of 60 cm. I was shooting at an abandoned steel (roughly 1.25 sheet of iron) trailer in the forest. There are dents to a depth of one and a half mm (there are no through holes), there is no unburned gunpowder in the barrel. All indicators by eye. I didn't take a roulette.
I found a defect in the chamber on these 6 mm used for the first time: it scratches the sleeve when removed. Apparently, these millimeters were not subject to processing. At the factory, they grinded it by 70 mm, and then for the plastic on the 76th sleeve, the scuffs are not critical.
I was going to order the turner a blank according to the size of the shot brass sleeve. Temper it and drive the chamber in a circular motion with goya paste (diamond?).
Question: Is it possible to restore a possible violation of the chrome coating in the chamber at home, or should I still look for an exit to the factory?
Uf. You have to be very stubborn to create a new topic or answer questions in an old one. Killed already!
Again. Caliber twenty, chamber at 76. To avoid deformation of the shot at the transition between the chamber and the barrel and for winter hunts, the turner ordered brass sleeves with a thick wall for chewing and 76 mm long. When firing 70 brass casings, the accuracy was so-so. on a C grade.
This new added 6mm is scratched quite hard when the cartridge case is removed from the chamber. with each shot, the edge of the chiseled sleeves wears out and the newly acquired qualities of the shot will be lost again.
The casings will be removed with a dry chamber; if there is light lubrication, there is no. I think at the factory, when grinding the chamber, they did not remove the burrs on these 6 mm - the chamber was ground to a standard depth of 70 mm.
The size of the burrs is like weaving in 1-2 along the entire arc of a circle, but frequent.
Since the chrome plating of the barrel is very hard, I think that using soft material on the cutter will not work, the cutter will wear out by itself, and the burrs will remain, but God forbid. - diamond paste will accumulate locally and make holes in the chamber.
What is the point of dusting the cartridge cases at the tips, if after each shot the cartridge case is inflated in the chamber?
I did not think about reducing mixtures, such as XADO. Thanks!
I mentioned chrome plating so that there would be less trouble with the chamber later, since I will also shoot with seventies cartridge cases, even though their accuracy suffers. If the chrome is not recovered, it will have to be cleaned more often.
Interestingly, to answer with what attempt to succeed? The second day in the evening I already went as I try!
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After the New Year's shooting of the Mosin rifle from the SHP, one of the cartridges was blown up in the chamber. As soon as I took it out, it turned out that two shells 0.6-1 mm deep and an area of about 0.5 square meters were formed inside the chamber. cm at a distance of 15 and 20 mm from the breech cut (inspection of the chamber showed: at the place of the shells, the metal exfoliated in the form of scales, the dimensions of the shells were taken from their imprint on the sleeve).
So the question arose: how can they be cured?
Thanks in advance to everyone who will help.
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These shells were already there, unscrew the barrel to treat it, which is not easy, and remove the shells with a drill, with sandpaper, and then do not shoot with a full charge, it is better the floor and the shells will come out.
In this case, the entire sleeve will be blown.
I read that we are talking about a non-combat weapon.
Then yes you can try.
But there will be problems with getting the cartridge case out of the chamber after the shot. (You can't create mirrors anyway.)
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What if I try cold welding followed by sanding / shaping?
It will not work (the layer is very thin).
In case of suffering, there will be a lot of tension on this place (the density of the welding hole and the steel walls are different).
So for a couple of shots then everything will be released like a seal.
I went through this in childhood when I was 15 years old.
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Status is the number of feathers
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I wrote, this is categorical for a combat shot.
And you bang with SHP. Use less powder, that's all.
And the shells can be treated with resin. So that it does not blow much.
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And if, hypothetically, braze? (for example, copper-phosphorus)
Copper-phosphorus solder. because of its properties. iron practically does not solder. "Hypothetically": silver - can be soldered.
Well, I'll go get the epoxy from the attic and try it first.
Mix iron filings in epoxy - enough for a while
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So far I've filled the sinks with epoxy.
Around the 10th, my father and his acquaintance will think about a press-fit insert in his depot.
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So, sir, the epoxy withstood 8 shots.
I tried to weld it with copper (as I was advised in the LS) - it did not work.
Now all that remains is to wait until the father's vacation ends and he can make an insert in his depot.
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Message BadFox Apr 23, 2007 06:19 am.
Message vovilkakoptilka "23 Apr 2007, 15:14.
Message BadFox "Apr 24, 2007, 12:56 pm.
Message genium "24 Apr 2007, 16:21.
Message vovilkakoptilka "Apr 24, 2007, 11:04 pm.
Message BadFox "Apr 25, 2007, 12:15 pm.
Message vovilkakoptilka "Apr 25, 2007, 12:32 pm.
Message genium "25 Apr 2007, 13:18.
Message vovilkakoptilka "Apr 25, 2007, 7:35 pm.
Message vovilkakoptilka "Apr 25, 2007 7:42 pm.
Message Rabbit "Apr 26, 2007, 01:30 am.
Message genium "Apr 26, 2007, 07:39 am.
Message vovilkakoptilka "Apr 26, 2007, 13:59 pm.
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Message BadFox "Apr 26, 2007, 20:10.
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- Name: Pavel Vladimirovich K.
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behemoth1488 (September 27, 2014 - 21:05) wrote:
Universal reamer 9x18 made of 9XC steel designed for unfolding and repairing the chamber. Used primarily for pistol cartridges.
The use of a reamer not only allows you to accurately comply with all dimensions, but also increases the resource of the barrel, contributing to the preservation of rifling. The reamer makes a bullet entrance, which clings to the edge of the sleeve. In the case of using an ordinary cutter, there is no bullet inlet, the sleeve rests against the grooves and deforms them over time, as a result of which the cartridge begins to fail.
* Made on factory equipment
* Tool alloy steel 9ХС. Possesses increased wear resistance, fatigue strength in bending, torsion, contact loading, as well as elastic properties.
Note that the reamer does not groove. A mandrel is used for this purpose.
Rifle barrel manufacturing process
Why precision rifles are so accurateNo small arms manufacturer will ever tell you exactly how they make precision sport rifle barrels and benchrest rifles. It's always a mystery. Each manufacturer has its own. Whether it's Feinwerkbau, Steyr, or Walther - everyone has their own secrets, which they don't spread because they got them, or from other generations of old manufacturers of high quality gun barrels, or they got the right production technology by their mistakes. After all, look: the trigger mechanism - here it is, take it apart, repeat it, and study it, everything is in plain sight. And how the barrel of a rifle is made, what is the secret of the high performance of the barrels when firing from the machine - this is only given to the manufacturer to know. Their secrets are the path to sustainable production success.
One often hears the opinion that high quality weapons can only be achieved at huge arms factories, using expensive technologies, equipment, and infrastructure. However, practice shows that the most accurate and perfect samples of rifles are collected practically by hand. I have seen many small workshops in the United States employing one or two or three people and still producing rifles or weapon components of the highest standard. Often, such small companies can be suppliers of some components for large industries.
A sporting rifle, or benchrest (or any other), consists of four main parts: a stock, a bolt action, a trigger and a barrel.Usually gunsmiths who assemble rifles don't make anything themselves, they buy ready-made components and put them together. However, this is just in words, experience, knowledge and special tools are required.
How high precision rifle barrels are made
First of all, having received any component, the gunsmith checks and measures it very carefully. The barrels are inspected along the inner channel, it is measured with special digital bore gauges, adjusted to the ring gauge. Each ring gauge has a special certificate indicating its exact size to 6 decimal places (in inches), or to a quarter of a micron in millimeters. A bore gauge adjusted to this caliber shows the true value of the barrel dimensions down to microns. If the values do not suit the gunsmith (for example, one rifling is slightly deeper than the others, per micron), then such a barrel is rejected for benchrest and will be used to make a hunting rifle or will be returned to the manufacturer. The barrel is also subjected to a thorough visual inspection using an optical instrument - a borescope, the cleanliness of the inner surface, the absence of tool marks or any minor damage is assessed. After that, the gunsmith on a special band saw saws off the end of the barrel (about 5-6 mm), and the sawn-off piece passes the Rockwell hardness test on a special hardness tester.
If all the values suit the gunsmith, he proceeds to cutting the chamber and connecting threads. But first, the bolt group is carefully measured and checked. The requirements for tolerances here are no less stringent, but in addition to checking the geometry and hardness of the body of the group, the gunsmith checks the force of the mainspring with a special device, evaluates the quality of grinding the ends of the spring and, if required, modifies them. The size from the shutter mirror to the end of the body of the shutter group is very carefully checked. This dimension is important for setting the mirror gap. In sporting and benchrest rifles, it is minimal, so the preparation is very thorough.
After the barrel and the bolt group have been tested, you can start connecting them together. There are many ways to open the chamber, I have personally seen seven different options, but the most difficult is used precisely for deploying the chamber of benchrest rifles.
The gunsmith uses a small lathe, which, in addition to high precision, must have two important qualities: the spindle tube must be shorter than the barrel, and the spindle bore must be at least 40 mm. The usual cartridge is removed, and a special adjusting device is installed instead. A special device is also put on the outer end of the spindle tube, the barrel is set in beating on both sides in order to exclude the slightest effect on the axis of rotation and the trajectory of the sweep during operation.
Preliminarily, from the side of the chamber, the barrel is pressed with the center and the beating is eliminated (according to the hour indicator) from the opposite side of the barrel (from the outer end of the spindle tube). After preliminary installation of the barrel, the gunsmith installs the indicator on a magnetic stand, the measuring lever enters the barrel bore from the side of the future chamber and begins to adjust the screws of the device, eliminating the slightest beating. The indicator is used on a scale of one ten-thousandth of an inch, or two and a half microns. After the arrow of the indicator stops showing the deviation, the barrel is considered to be installed. The procedure can take from half an hour to 45 minutes.
Further, the gunsmith grinds the barrel for threading with a margin of a couple of "tens", but cuts the thread only after the chamber is unfolded.
Four tools are used to unroll the chamber: drill, cutter, rough and finish reamers. Sweeps are used with interchangeable pilots.Such a pilot does not rotate in the bore and does not leave marks on the bullet entrance, however, working with such sweeps requires more care, chips can get between the pilot and the body of the sweep and ruin the whole work. The reamer is fixed in the tap holder and held by hands, the shank is pressed by the center of the tailstock and fed by the lever of the tailstock, the feed size is controlled by the digital display device of the machine. The operation is slow, the sweep is removed from the channel during operation and cleaned (the pilot is examined through a magnifying glass) from chips and lubricated.
To control the dimensions of the chamber, a digital depth gauge is used, fixed in a special device - a "glass". A check gauge is installed in the chamber, the "glass" is pressed against the end of the barrel, which will be in contact with the end of the bolt group, and the distance to the base of the caliber is measured, by this value the gunsmith knows how much more metal needs to be removed to get "zero".
After the chamber is deployed to the desired depth, the gunsmith cuts the thread, the thread is cut with a special profile and differs from the usual counter thread.
The gunsmiths pay even more attention to the quality of the thread than the chamber, the correct thread ensures a tight fit of the barrel from the first turns, and during the firing process it will provide an even load of all the turns, distributing the load and making the shooting stable and accurate. The thread is measured with special wires and a micrometer, this allows you to control the size of the thread in the center of the turns.
Then the gunsmith processes the end of the barrel with a certain taper angle for the correct position of the bolt and the minimum clearance between the barrel and the bolt after installation.
After that, the barrel is turned over, the process of installation and elimination of beats is again carried out, and after that the muzzle is processed. The barrel is preliminarily measured, weighed and the position of the muzzle is marked, since after processing the barrel must exactly correspond to the weight parameters, since the total weight of the rifle should not exceed 4.7 kg together with the sight and rings, and the weight of each component is critical.
The last operation is the external polishing of the barrel and the engraving of inscriptions indicating the caliber and size of the chamber neck. The next operation is fitting the stock and gluing the bolt group.
The stock is fixed in a special machine and aligned in geometry, the axis of the butt and the support part of the forend must be perfectly perpendicular, otherwise deviations will occur during the shooting process, and the shooting will not be champion.
Not all lodges undergo such a procedure, some, due to the nature of the material, cannot be modified, and they are simply checked for compliance with the parameters. First of all, these are lodges made of Oregon pine and carbon fiber reinforced plastics.
If the stock suits the gunsmith, the gluing process begins. Instead of the barrel, a mock-up is installed - a metal cylinder with a thread. It is needed to check the position relative to the barrel groove of the forend. The layout of the trigger is also installed. All surfaces to be glued are thoroughly degreased, adjoining parts are sealed with masking tape. For gluing, JB weld composition is used, the glued group is kept for about two days before work is continued with it.
After the group is glued in, the barrel is installed. The barrel is lubricated with a special grease from sticking, it is applied abundantly, then wiped with a cloth so that a minimum layer remains. If this is not done, then the barrel will be very difficult to unscrew in the future. Then the barrel is clamped into a special barrel vise, a “key” is inserted into the bolt group and the barrel is tightened with a torque wrench, controlling the tightening force. Grease from sticking the barrel thread. How high precision rifle barrels are made
For front-end rifles, Jewell trigger mechanisms are usually used, but in recent years their quality has deteriorated. The very first mechanisms, released more than twenty years ago, were completely milled, now there is a lot of stamping, the springs do not correspond to the declared forces, the cases do not always have the required geometry. The gunsmith corrects all this, the escapement is disassembled, polished and polished, the spring is installed with the accuracy of force in accordance with the standard, the stamped parts of the case are replaced with milled ones. Checking the dimensions of the hooks is carried out using a measuring microscope. The cost of such work is usually equal to the cost of the escapement, but in the future such an investment pays for itself a hundredfold - the escapement works like a Swiss watch for many years.
After installing the trigger, the rifle is fully assembled. The gunsmith checks the clearance between the bolt and the barrel taper. There is a clever trick here, a thin lead wire is glued onto the shutter cone and the shutter is locked, the wire is crumpled, and these places are measured; if they are equal and correspond to the standard (usually 0.1 mm), then the rifle is considered finished.
This is followed by the installation of rings and a sight, control weighing of the rifle, cleaning and you can go to shoot, knowing that the weapon is assembled flawlessly and all errors at the turn are not barrel errors, but shooter's errors.
Video (click to play). Alexey Sorokin
easier to change. and peel off the cover, unsolder the bar so that the pipe remains naked. and try to flatten by forging (cold), or laminated.
PS: inside the bore the dent is visible, I suppose?
Post has been edited by behemoth1488: 27 September 2014 - 21:06
