Below we will consider how to make repairs using the example of an HP LaserJet 1100 printer. This manual will also be useful for repairing Canon, Samsung and Epson printers.
Suppose the thermal film is damaged during printing with a paper clip on the sheet. For repairs, you need a small set of tools:
VIDEO
Important! During such work, each operation must be carried out very carefully, since the printer is mostly made of plastic and any latch or part can break. Of course, after assembly, there should be no unnecessary parts.
Today, almost every family has a home printer, which allows you to print documents and take photos from the comfort of your home. But, as you know, any office equipment needs maintenance and, if necessary, minor repairs from time to time. Therefore, in this article we will tell you how to do it yourself, at home, without much money and loss of time to troubleshoot printers. For example, consider the well-known brand - HP.
As you know, the Hewlett Packard brand is very popular in Russia. Printing devices of this brand can be found both at home and in enterprises and offices. The high popularity is due to the reasonable price of printers and the reliability of their work. But any, even the most unpretentious device sometimes needs maintenance.
First, let's look at the typical problems that arise with the active use of HP inkjet printers and how to solve them.
The first reason for possible malfunctions is internal contamination of the printer , leading to an imbalance of moving parts, the formation of noise during operation and knocking when the carriage moves.
Even an ordinary user can eliminate this problem, the printer does not have to be disassembled - it is enough to buy a special lubricant sold in electronics stores and process all moving mechanisms.
To clean the printer from internal contamination, it is better to use ordinary distilled water; the use of alcohol for these purposes is contraindicated by the manufacturer.
If during printing the text moves to the side or the carriage hits the edges of the case - the reason may be dustiness or breakage of the positioning "ruler" , along which the carriage is oriented in space.
In the first case, you just need to disassemble the back of the printer, get to the shaft and remove the ruler, then rinse it in warm water, wipe it with a dry sponge and dry it, then put everything back in the reverse order (remember how the ruler was originally located) Turn on the printer and check its performance. If the line breaks, it is better to contact a specialized service center.
There is also another malfunction - the carriage does not cling to the gear teeth , the motor is idling. The cause of the breakdown is simple - poor drive belt tension. The problem is solved by inspecting and correcting the tension spring on the belt gear bracket. Perhaps it is poorly fixed or simply needs to be replaced.
The next problem is jerky movement of the carriage causing the printer to tear the paper. This is a serious malfunction associated with an imbalance in the printing mechanism - the printer shaft has lost its original correct position. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to disassemble the printer - remove the carriage, ruler, shaft, toothed belt, clean all mechanisms by rinsing them in warm water, dry and collect everything in its original state, lubricating all friction points of the carriage and adjusting its free travel.
If your printer does not pick up the paper, for this it is worth cleaning the rubber rollers in the lower tray, and also adjusting the small spring that presses the paper against the roller.
If the printer produces a streak on the printed pages, you can safely say that the cartridge will soon run out, and to temporarily fix this problem, you just need to remove it and shake it from side to side.
If several horizontal stripes appear, you can clean the transroller yourself (black roller under the cartridge). It can be pulled out simply, but try not to touch it with your hands. You can clean the roller with cotton pads or a soft cloth, it is also allowed to use isopropyl alcohol.
Summing up, we can conclude that most printer malfunctions are eliminated by cleaning them from dirt and adjusting mechanisms even at home. Basic technical skills and patience are enough for this.
It is not often that the average person needs information on how to make a seal himself. But still, there are times when advice of this kind will help in creativity or the implementation of creative ideas. We have collected a few guidelines, but first we will look at the types of stamps and their purpose.
There are seals for the official documentation:
Stamp. Certifies the authenticity of documents from government agencies.A commercial. Used by individual entrepreneurs and legal entities.Stamp. Replaces handwritten text on stationery.If everything is clear with the documents, then how to label your books, letters, personal belongings? Craftsmen accustomed to standards are unlikely to make a creative sketch of the image. It is easier to make an impression yourself. Below we will tell you how to make a print at home.
Attention: the instruction contains advice on how to make a seal for personal use. The illegal manufacture of a stamp for commercial and other purposes is punishable by forced labor or imprisonment for up to two years. In the best case, you will have to pay a fine of up to 80 thousand rubles. (Art. 327, paragraph 1).
Types of homemade prints:
Ex-libris. They can mark, for example, books in a home library. The print can have a beautiful image or your family coat of arms.Logo. They put on hand-made products, paper bags, packaging.Blank for wax impressions. Used for sealing letters.Toy print for playing with children.
Making a seal begins with creating a print design. For this, graphic programs are used:
Stamp is a popular and free software for creating image mockups. Intuitive, even an inexperienced user can work with it. You can download only the demo version for free.
"Stamp" is a free program with wide functionality.
Corel Draw, Illustrator - vector graphics editors for creating detailed images. Requires basic skills.
Fine Print is a paid program for inserting a print image into a text document.
Here are 3 main ways: difficult, simple, for children.
Photo exposure technology is able to convey the smallest details of the picture.However, it is financially costly and difficult to implement: you need to master graphic programs, buy film and polymer, find an exposure camera and a suitable laser printer.
Step 1. We need a mock image. Use Corel Draw to create a professional drawing, but other programs will work as well.
Step 2. To print the layout, use a laser printer with a resolution of 600 dpi or more. Lomond or Kimoto films are suitable as a base.
Step 3. Straighten the negative and place it face up on the glass. Before doing this, moisten the glass with water to help the negative adhere better. It is advisable to cover it with a protective film. Using smoothing movements from the center to the edges, remove air and residual water from under the film.
Step 4. Cover the edge of the negative with border tape, leave the corners free.
Step 5. Fill the negative with photopolymer evenly, without interrupting the jet. If bubbles appear, pierce them with a needle or blow out a rubber bulb with a jet of air.
Step 6. Gently place the film over the polymer with the rough side inward and the smooth side out. Press it lightly in the middle and gradually release the ends. Place another glass on top and use clamps (available at office supply stores) to secure around the edges.
Step 7. Place the resulting "sandwich" in the exposure chamber. The front side should be on top. Set the exposure duration. When the process is complete, turn the song over and repeat the procedure. Each polymer has its own exposure time. For example, VX55 and ROEHM should be held for one minute. In order not to be mistaken, read the technical regulations.
Step 8. Remove the glass carefully and separate the negative from the resin. Leave the clear substrate in place. Use a toothbrush and a non-abrasive detergent to rinse off any uncured resin from the cliché. This is best done under running warm water.
Step 9. Soak the washed cliché for 5-10 minutes in water and re-expose.
Step 10. Carefully cut the cliché along the contour without touching the sides. Stick the workpiece onto the rig. The print is ready!
Beginners often separate the substrate from the polymer after exposure. As a result, it is not possible to glue the stamp blank. Remember: the rough surface of the substrate is in contact with the polymer, and the smooth one adheres to the body.
Find an old stamp or plaque of the correct size, preferably one with a handle. Glue the resulting inscription to it, and you can try the quality of the print.
This technology does not require any special artistic talent from you. Materials for the manufacture of blanks are in every home. The wear resistance of such a stamp is lower than that of a photopolymer; however, it can be used to make several hundred impressions.
Step 1. Find the right drawing. Transfer it to tracing paper, and then to foil. To do this, you can take a pencil or a non-writing pen shaft and trace the outline with light pressure. Any foil is suitable: food in a roll or from a chocolate bar.
Step 2. Carefully pour a strong putty or epoxy glue into the grooves. Set aside the workpiece for two days to dry out.
Step 3. At the end of the term, remove the resulting inscription from the foil. The impression should be easily detached.
Step 4. Find an old stamp or plaque of the correct size, preferably one with a handle. Glue the resulting inscription to it and test the quality of the print. Ready!
Who among us did not draw on an eraser, and then enthusiastically stamp the last page of the notebook? Children love to make prints. And you can make a whole collection of shaped stamps together with them.
You will need porous rubber (sold together with stationery), Moment glue, gouache, scissors, and a pencil.
Step 1. Using a pencil, draw a pattern on the foam rubber with an adhesive backing.We recommend this particular material, since you can make a more detailed drawing on it than on foam rubber.
Step 2. Carefully cut out the resulting image. Punch holes with a clerical knife.
Step 3. Prepare some wine corks or plastic bottle caps. Stick the cutouts on them.
Step 4. Dilute the gouache in a little water or use a stamp paint. That's it, you can put the first print!
Porous rubber blanks can be used to create artistic prints for scrapbooking. And for the postcard to be neat and beautiful, do not forget about creasing. What it is and how to do it at home - read here.
Watch the video for another easy way to make a stamp with your own hands:
VIDEO
The Master's Secret shares his successful experience in repairing a laser printer HP LaserJet 1010. The manual is suitable for HP LJ printers of the 1000 - 1200 series. The story is simple, the purchased used printer (for 1000 rubles) worked for a year and was stupidly damaged by a sheet with a paper clip, rinsed and began to rustle - it broke thermal film. Damage to the thermal film is easily confirmed by installing a replacement cartridge. Contacting the service center meant paying for repairs at least at the price comparable to buying a new printer. I also spurred the search for thermal film for the printer, sellers offered to buy thermal film at an unrealistic price of up to 1,500 rubles (its red price
100 rubles), plus the tricks of sellers in the absence of thermal grease in the repair kit and the sale of this component for repair also at an order of magnitude overpriced.
The thermal film was searched for within a month and was purchased for 300 rubles (2013) complete with thermal grease. Repair requires a simple tool:
The repair scheme is carried out step by step in the following order.
Step: 1 Check the integrity of the film and the presence of thermal grease. Pull the cartridge out of the printer. Unplug the power cord.
Step 1. Disconnect the power cord
Step 1. Remove the cartridge from the printer
Step: 2 The cartridge access cover is held in place by a rod. The stem must be separated from the cover by pressing on the inner edge of the plastic rivet. Hold the rivet while detaching.
Step: 3 Turn the printer towards you with the back cover and using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the three screws from the metal cover, two screws on the left and one screw on the right. See photo.
Step 3. Unscrew the screw on the left
Step 3. Unscrew the screws on the right
Step: 4 Remove the sides of the printer. The stacks are held in place by plastic clips that are located at the top, bottom, and back. The lid without buttons holds the strongest. Secret latches are shown in the photo.
Step 4. Wall latches with buttons
Step 4. Wall latches without buttons
Step: 5 Lift the cartridge access door and remove the two machine screws. Remove the cover.
Step: 6 Use a flat screwdriver to pry up the lower right edge of the metal back cover and remove it.
Step 6. Pry off the cover with a screwdriver
Step: 7 On the side of the power connector is the power board. There are four different connectors on the top of the board, unplug them. The connector with white thick wires will be disconnected only after pressing the latch, see the photo. It is also necessary to disconnect the red wire on the back panel. Just pull it up. Remember how it is fastened preloaded by a spring. Remove the wires from the organizer clips.
Step 7: power board connectors
Step 7. Latch for the fourth connector
Step 7. Fastening the red wire
Step 7. Red wire connector
Step 7. The wires are free
Step: 8 So we got to the stove. The stove is secured with three screws. See photo. We unscrew the screws. Hold the screws while loosening.
Step 8. The first screw that secures the stove
Step 8. The second screw securing the stove
Step 8. The third screw for fixing the stove
Step: 9 Take the right edge of the stove and pull it out.
Step: 10 Unscrew the two screws securing the stove top cover. Remove the cover by pulling it to the side.
Step 10. First cover screw
Step 10. Second cover screw
Step 10. The fuser cover is removed
Step: 11 Now we see the destruction of the thermal film. Remember the position of the planks with pins and levers! There are springs on the sides of the stove, we unhook the springs from below with long-nose pliers. We remove metal strips and plastic pressure levers on each side. Do not mix them up when assembling!
Step 11. Spring securing the lever
Step 11. Remove each spring
Step: 12 We release the white wires from the clips and remove the drum with thermal film. It just goes up.
Step 12. Remove the thermal drum
Step 12. The thermal drum is removed
Step: 13 We remove with our own hands the plastic tip from the side where thin wires come out of the drum. The cap is held on by the latches.
Step: 14 Remove the damaged thermal film and wipe the metal surface and the thermocouple with a damp cloth from old grease and dirt.
Step 14. Remove the thermal film
Step: 15 Apply a new thermal grease on the surface of the stove. Install the thermal film carefully. The end of the cylinder should be fixed to the opposite plastic tip. also carefully install the right tip. It is useful to remove leaked thermal grease.
Step 15. Apply thermal grease
Step 15. Putting on the thermal film
Step 15. Remove excess thermal grease
Step: 16 Assembling the stove in the reverse order. The correct position of the planks in the photo.
Step 16. The cover is installed
Step: 17 We put the stove in place and fasten it with three screws. We fill and connect all the wires to the connectors. Install the red wire correctly.
Step: 18 Install the back and top covers. We lift the plastic flags of the stove up during installation. so that they fit into the corresponding grooves in the cover.
Step 19. Print a test page
Step: 19 After assembling the printer, check the absence of unnecessary parts. We connect the power cord. We turn on the printer. First, we give the command to feed without paper, and then we print a test page, holding the green button a little longer. On the first few pages, grease marks may appear around the edges. The work was done unhurriedly for an hour. The money saved in such work will correspond to a salary of more than 100,000 rubles a month.
Repair such breakdowns yourself!
I myself changed dozens of thermal films for hp-I testify-it is written correctly.
And how to cheat a laser printer xerox 3140 I have a problem I bought a cartridge for it, I ran out of ink and started pouring new powder and then writes that there is supposedly no cartridge and the red diode has stopped printing and that's it / How not to tell him to cheat?
Hello everyone! After my previous post about repairing printers, I still have +10 subscribers) Although I do not pretend to be such respected pikabushniks as qepka and 80cats (I am far from them and their work profile is different), I am very pleased for your support. In this post I want to tell and show you about the repair of some printers that have visited our SC
Xerox WC3220, problem - after turning on it does not go on readiness, a message appears something like “system error: off / on. a printer". I also thought that everything is simple because with the same error, the same printers have already brought, the result - the heating lamp burned out. I noticed that recently they began to bring Sam / Xer printers with a burned out lamp, it seems to be understandable: it often turns on and off during operation (it was just that this was not the case before, and devices of about the same year of manufacture ¯_ (ツ) _ / ¯ ) During the repair process, it turned out that the lamp and the fuses were intact, and the reason was not a contact in the thermo unit connection socket:
Looks like the face of a robot with square eyes) The “teeth” of the robot are the contacts of the thermal sensor, the “eyes” are the contacts of the lamp. Two pins were just a little covered with oxides, I was too lazy to clean them and I put the whole socket from another disassembled thermo unit.
Next, the Canon LBP3110 printer, the problem is crackling when printing, jams. And here is a typical problem - wear of the drive gear of the thermal unit:
In the photo, another printer seems to be Canon MF5730, exactly the same gear in HP 1000/1200/1300 printers and many others
Instead of teeth, the gear has thin plates, naturally there is no normal engagement with the gear of the rubber shaft of the thermo unit. I think there are several reasons for this wear: different gear material, weak pressure between the gears, wear of the thermocouple, and the manufacturer himself is not interested in the nodes to serve for a long time
Kyocera ES 1370N printer. Customer complaint that the sheet comes out of the printer by about 2-3 cm and stops. This happens in about 5-15 sheets.
I found out that the Teflon shaft was worn straight to the metal on one edge, but after replacing it, the malfunction remained. Having crawled through the forums on this problem, I realized that either the optocoupler for the passage of paper in the thermal unit is faulty, or the forward / backward rotation switch of the output shaft is damaged (with double-sided printing). I checked all this - the problem remained. Further, suspicion fell on the registration clutch in the gearbox. It is a pity that then I did not take enough pictures because my hands were constantly greased from gears (there is a mechanism that is not easy to disassemble)
Further repair of НР Р2035. They printed until the last: after the thermal film broke, the rubber shaft broke, they stopped only when the printer began to jam the paper, the result: repairs for something about 3000 rubles, and it could be more if the heating element burned out (gray strip on photo) The photo shows that even the paper turned black from the temperature
If you open the rear door of the printer after a paper jam and notice such pieces of rubber roller or thermal film (sometimes they fall into the tray or at the exit from the printer), then turn off the printer and carry it to repair so that you will not spend even more on repairs.
Often, in HP / Canon printers, it is necessary to replace the bearings (bushings) of the rubber shaft of the fuser unit. They are made of heat-resistant plastic, in shape they can be left and right as half rings or one half ring, and the other on the gear side of the rubber shaft with a loop from scrolling in place.
Ball bearings familiar to many are also put into printers, but the price of such devices is usually several times higher. In the upper right corner of the photo, it broke when trying to get it - it was completely erased. Often they wear out unevenly, in which case a distortion occurs and the thermal film slides towards the worn one and over time its edge breaks. Also, when they wear out, the clamp between the rubbers. the roller and the heating element becomes smaller, which is why the toner does not adhere well to the sheet (the image is erased if you slide your finger over it). On the left side of the photo are two red bearings from canon 3110/3220/5730 and similar. The trick is that the one that is higher in our country is around 200 rubles, and with a loop it is already almost 900 rubles. (!) The wholesale price will certainly be lower, but still I do not understand what exactly is its high price, can any of the pikabushniks know?
The next Brother 7xxx series printer seems to be and the most common problem is poor print quality. It happens that a client calls and asks: "Why is my printer doing there?" Well, I don't like these printers, my parents have a DCP-7030R at home, my father rarely prints and all the rules, and in an organization where you need to print a lot, they constantly bring them with poor print quality. When I just started working in the service I tried to somehow fix the cartridge, clean it there, replace the photo roll, sometimes it seems to help, but more often, or when checking, the same thing again, or then a dissatisfied client will bring it again. The most reliable thing is to buy a new cartridge stupidly and not to steam. Moreover, the compatible cartridge is not much worse than the original, and the price is 3 times less
The cartridge itself consists of two parts: a toner cartridge (TN) and a photo cartridge (Drum). The photo shows a disassembled Drum without a photo. In general, cartridges themselves are consumables and manufacturers try to make them disposable in their own way, because this is just a gold mine for them.Someone, for example, puts chips with protection, which are blocked after printing a certain number of sheets, and Brother uses a mechanism instead of chips, which, in principle, is easy to reset to 0, in addition, they took some parts from the printer into the cartridge and made it as disposable as possible ... On average, 4-5 refills and the toner cartridge starts to crumble, and then the dram starts to print badly. As I said before, cleaning and repairing the cartridge does not always help. You can clean the toner cartridge (completely empty out the old toner, invigorate the seals, clean the magnetic roller, metering and cutting blade), but with the drum it is more difficult. As we understood, charge leakage begins and that's it.
Next comes the HP M400 printer - another example of how a manufacturer strives for disposable cartridges. Customer complaint: the printer breaks the teeth of the drive coupling for rotation of the photo roll (by the way, the cartridges are original)
Fortunately, the clutch is available, and it can be removed from the decommissioned ones. The trick is that on previous models with the same fotoval drive unit, such garbage was not observed. If you pull out / insert the cartridge, the printer starts to rotate the shafts, but sometimes the clutch slips and over time the clutch breaks. I had to work on a collective farm with a gear cover so that the clamping of the clutch and the drives was tighter)
True, then, after about 3-4 months, the client brought it again with the same trouble (and they print a lot). There are no further kolkhoz photos - another person took up the printer. In addition to this jamb, the printer has a dull touch display and log firewood - you wait almost an hour for installation, it reaches 99% and an error occurs that the installation takes too long, restart the computer (if there is firewood installed on the same printer, remove them completely and start the installation again)
Next on the list is the Toshiba e18 MFP. Quite a popular model with a reasonable price for an A3 paper machine. The client says he is jamming the paper in the fuser with an accordion. The client is to blame for this - when a jam occurs, the paper must be removed carefully, otherwise the seats of the paper separator fingers can be easily broken:
You can, of course, try to fix it with a thin drill, wire or paper clips (if you glue something, then with a special high-temperature glue, which we do not have 🙂), but in such cases we usually suggest replacing the entire lid of the thermo unit, there is no other way. If the printer displays a message about the need for service (after about 75 thousand pages) and the print quality suits you, the error can be easily reset, but still sometimes you look inside to see if everything is okay with it. By the way, I recently screwed up a lot with another Toshiba) I replaced the Teflon shaft, began to assemble it back, and at the stage of tightening the fastening screws of one of the heating lamps pulled my hand that broke the tip with the contact of the lamp (I'm a fool, I'm used to using an electric screwdriver, but it was necessary to tighten the usual one carefully) Naturally, there is no way to repair it, and the lamps removed from the old devices have disappeared somewhere. Fortunately, the boss did not swear much, advised him to look into the thermo unit of the old decommissioned model of Toshiba, which had been standing in the corner for a long time. I was lucky - although there was only one lamp, instead of two in the 18th, it matched the broken one in terms of parameters.
That's all for today, I think it's time to finish) Why didn't I have inkjet printers in my post? There was a time when our service refused to repair them altogether. there was little exhaust from them. Recently, they decided to take them again, but only to eliminate problems not related to print quality is a dirty business, and there is no guarantee of work (maximum start cleaning nozzles). Usually we reset errors, remove jams, change pick rollers, “diapers” and so on. Instead of cats at the end - fsh with Pikabu from which I blasted out loudly at work: Mitka Makkonokhov and Zhorik Letov
What I liked while working in the SC was the repair of printers / copiers. Although I started with a banal PC repair, then laptops, navigators, etc.As a result, I slowed down on the printer equipment, and for the last three years I have only been repairing it. Now I will explain a little to those who do not know:
1. It is much more interesting (and even more difficult) to repair a printer than computers and laptops (it’s not just me about laptop BGA soldering, etc. a child can handle soldering at a thermal soldering station).
2. Variety of breakdowns, each printer is something new and a drop of experience. Yes, there are repetitive repairs, but their percentage is not as large as when repairing PCs / laptops. There are instances (immediately the cold ran through the body) with which you f * ck for several days and knowing exactly the node in which the malfunction (from personal experience - SHARP, I picked it up for three days, as a result - on the gear already when measuring the gear it turned out that the teeth were licked evenly by 1 - 1.5 mm.) For 10 years of work experience in the SC, I have not yet seen a single laptop and PC which would take more than 2-3 hours to diagnose.
3. Each printer is endowed with a magical mind. And if you do not say at the end of the assembly and before the test check the phrase: “Well, bitch, just try to fuck, I won’t fucking disassemble you for the third time” - then there is a possibility that I didn’t finish something. The most important thing is communication with the printer, you have to feel it so to speak. (to know in which case in which area to get off the feet) .
4. Incredible thrill when everything works. Especially the buzz is obtained from the repair of the mechanical part (there is the fiercest pi * ets just ).
5. Copiers (these are such big infernal office machines) are the raisins for an employee of the SC. Since this is the same printer, only there are more details - ask where are the raisins? For the price of repairs, they are charged 10 times more expensive.
Video (click to play).
And finally, I would like to end with the following phrase: you can't just pick up and assemble so that there are no extra bolts left .
