Among the reasons for the insufficient efficiency of interior heating, the most common is the lack of coolant, especially on older cars. Many modern cars are equipped with a sensor that monitors the level of antifreeze in the system and signals a critical decrease, but it is far from the fact that your model belongs to the latest generation. If there is little coolant in the system, the radiator of the stove does not heat up intensively enough, therefore, the efficiency of the heater is noticeably reduced. Warm air enters the passenger compartment, but in the maximum heating mode, it continues to remain the same, not providing heating of the passenger compartment when the outside temperature drops significantly. Topping up antifreeze is quite simple, but without identifying and eliminating the reasons for its departure, the problem will certainly appear again. If the leak is significant, it will happen quickly.
The reason for the leakage of the circuit may be damage to the radiator or pipes, as well as leaks at the junctions of the hoses with the pipes.A leak can be identified by the presence of smudges under the car after a long parking. Eliminating the coolant leak is also not particularly difficult if it is not a radiator leak - in this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the place of the leak, and if it is in a hard-to-reach place, the radiator will have to be removed. Soldering the defect allows you to solve the problem, but this process has its own nuances, and if you have never held a soldering iron in your hands, entrust the repair to a more experienced craftsman.
Another common reason for a noticeable deterioration in interior heating is the airiness of the cooling system. Air usually enters the circuit after a complete replacement of antifreeze, less often when refueling with antifreeze. Deterioration in the heating of the passenger compartment is by no means the only consequence of the appearance of an airlock - it prevents the free flow of antifreeze along the circuit, and if a lot of air gets into the system, the coolant will stop circulating altogether. This is fraught with overheating of the power unit, which is much more dangerous than a decrease in the efficiency of heating the passenger compartment.
If the Audi 80 B3 stove does not work due to the appearance of airiness in the system, there are many ways to eliminate the airlock, and all of them can be done independently (the presence of an assistant may be required).
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If no deviations were found when checking the antifreeze level, the lack of heat on the deflectors may be caused by a clogged heater radiator. This is actually a normal phenomenon for older cars, but sometimes the reason for the clogging of the radiator grille is the use by the car owner of various powder preparations designed to eliminate coolant leaks. That is, when eliminating one reason for the deterioration of the car heating system, we get another. Such sealants tend to clog the passages in the radiator pipes, especially if you used the drug without following the instructions (used a higher dosage than recommended).
Clogging of the radiator can be caused by mixing different brands of coolant (for example, if you filled in antifreeze, and topped up with G11 or G13 antifreeze). In this case, a sludge forms, gradually settling on the walls of the radiator pipes and reducing the clearance for coolant circulation.
The same effect is obtained by using ordinary water - it is not only a source of corrosion, but also contains various salts, which, being in a heated liquid, precipitate, forming scale on the radiator pipes. If the stove on the Audi 80 B3 does not work due to a clogged fan, there are several ways to fix the problem:
Lack of air flow from the deflectors is a clear sign that the stove fan is not working at all. At the same time, the coolant will continue to wash the radiator, the heat exchange process will not stall, but the heated air will enter the cabin only by gravity, that is, barely.
If the Audi 80 B 2 stove does not heat and you are sure that the fan is not spinning, it is necessary to check the integrity of the 30-amp fuse F17, which is responsible for the fan motor power supply circuit. If it turns out that it is burnt out, do not rush to install a new one: there may be damage to the electrical wiring that caused a short circuit. In this case, installing a new fuse will cause it to blow again. Test the appropriate circuit with a multimeter or tester.
It happens that the fan does not work in all modes. The fact is that when the maximum heating mode is turned on, it works directly from the on-board network, and in other modes, the fan is powered through resistors that reduce its speed. If one of these resistors fails, the corresponding mode will stop turning on.
The cause of the burnout of the resistors is a short-term increase in the load on the impeller (fan blade). Replacing the resistor with a conventional wire jumper can partially solve the problem - the fan will start working again in this mode, but at maximum power.Another reason for the inoperability of the fan in certain modes may be the oxidation of the contacts on the gearshift knob. Access to it can be opened after removing the radio.
If the problem is not in the above-described malfunctions, then the cause of insufficient heating of the passenger compartment may be a malfunction of the thermostat of the power unit. The purpose of the thermostat is to warm up the engine as quickly as possible. When the temperature of the antifreeze is less than 95 degrees, it blocks the access of coolant to the front radiator, that is, the fluid circulates in a "small circle" through the heater radiator. With a shorter path, the antifreeze does not have time to cool down and heats up faster. As soon as its temperature rises to operating temperature, the thermostat will close the "small circle" by letting coolant through the radiator of the cooling system, which prevents the motor from overheating.
But due to the poor quality of antifreeze or due to natural wear and tear, the thermostat may stop performing its functions - in this case, the coolant will always circulate in a "big circle". In this case, it heats up to 95 degrees for a very long time, which is why it will be cold in the cabin for a long time.
If the Audi 80 B3 stove does not heat, the reason may be that the "small circle" is only partially overlapped, and then, even at the maximum fan speed, insufficiently heated air will enter the cabin. With a temperature outside the bead of minus 20 - 30 degrees, even with a long trip with a faulty thermostat, antifreeze will not be able to warm up to operating temperature. The problem can be eliminated only by replacing the thermostat with a new one - it cannot be repaired. And you can do this as quickly as possible - otherwise you simply will not be able to drive in the cold season due to fogged up or covered with ice glasses.
The main purpose of the pump is to ensure the movement of the coolant through the cooling system (from the engine block through the pipes to the radiator and then back to the power unit). The pump is a mechanical pump in the form of an impeller that pushes liquid through a cylinder through the system. The pump is driven by a belt drive that transfers rotation from the crankshaft. If this belt breaks, the pump stops rotating. So if the Audi 80 B4 stove does not heat, the reason may lie precisely in this, and the inoperability of the pump can lead to rapid overheating of the power unit.
Sometimes the pump impeller itself is jammed (as a result of the bearing crumbling or foreign objects getting into the pump cavity). Sometimes the impeller, if it is made of low-quality metal, is simply corroded by antifreeze containing aggressive components - in this case, although the pump will rotate, the generated pressure will be noticeably lower, which will also affect the efficiency of the heater. It is easy to diagnose a pump malfunction - this may be indicated by the appearance of a whistle in the engine compartment. You can touch the hose to the pump with your hands - if it is hot at the inlet and cold at the outlet, then this is the point. As with the thermostat, the solution is to replace the pump.
Violation of the integrity of the head gasket is a common phenomenon, usually due to poor-quality tightening. In such cases, coolant will flow into the cylinders or into the exhaust system (in the latter case, thick white smoke coming from the muffler will indicate this). If the Audi 80 B3 stove does not heat well due to a decrease in the amount of coolant in the system, this is a serious problem, which also affects the rapid warming up of the engine to temperatures exceeding the operating temperatures. If this problem is detected, the gasket must be replaced immediately, otherwise the motor may overheat and fail.
If the cabin filter installed in front of the deflectors is thoroughly clogged, this will prevent the normal flow of heated air into the cabin. Some drivers simply get rid of it, but it is not recommended to do this, unless, of course, your health is dear to you.Changing the cabin filter is an extremely simple operation that requires the ability to work with a screwdriver. Considering that today you can buy filters that protect not only from dust, but also the penetration of unpleasant odors into the cabin, the idea of throwing it away should be abandoned.
This reason for the insufficient efficiency of interior heating can be called exotic, but it occurs, especially on older cars and vehicles that have been in an accident. You can try to fix the problem by installing the air ducts in their original place and securing them with plastic clamps. If it doesn't work out, replace them with new ones.
As you can see, there are really many reasons why the Audi 80 B4 stove does not heat well, and if there are no very specific symptoms, it can be very troublesome to determine the exact cause. In any case, most of the problems can be fixed on your own, without visiting a service station or car service.
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The stove was leaking on my Audi 80, I had to do something ... But for this you first need to remove it. It is not easy to do this, the whole day was spent on the procedure.
The following tool came in handy:
• Head "24", large knob;
• Head "8.10", small knob, extension to it not less than 10 cm;
First of all, we remove the radio tape recorder. Carefully remove the stove control knobs by pulling them towards ourselves.
Unscrew the self-tapping screws under the left and right handles and remove the decorative strip.
Next, in the cabin, gently pull the stove towards you. Then we unscrew the two self-tapping screws and, snapping off the two latches, pull the stove radiator itself up to the top.
Dismantled stove radiator. The assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
The heating system usually fails as a result of severe wear and tear or the sudden entry of foreign objects into the honeycomb. The video published by our administration will allow you to get acquainted with the main features of replacing the stove radiator on the Audi 80.
Many drivers often ask the question - if the stove on my Audi 80 breaks down, then what to do - will you need to replace or restore the unit? Practice shows that in most cases the damage is so strong that ordinary repairs are indispensable. Therefore, immediately take on a complex replacement.
By itself, removing the heater radiator is a simple, but lengthy process, since a large number of parts must be disposed of during dismantling. The instruction looks like this.
If during the inspection a punctured stove radiator is found, it is replaced with a new one. In order to properly replace the heater radiator on the Audi 80, when replacing the heater, it is necessary to check for operability. To do this, connect the necessary connectors and click through all the available modes.
If you have followed the instructions given above, now we replace the old stove radiator with a new stove and assemble the parts in the reverse order.
Hello dear readers of the blog my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/82! Not so long ago I ran into a problem on my car. The stove ran in the Audi 80. Antifreeze liter and a half poured into the salon ... Trouble. Since I had to drive, I drowned out the stove for a while, simply by removing the pipes from the stove radiator and connecting them together using a suitable piece of pipe.
Since I didn't care replacement stove audi 80 , then on the weekend I decided to remove the stove radiator and see what happened to him. And so let's start everything in order. For work, I needed a small set of tools, or rather an 8mm socket wrench and two screwdrivers with a long sting under the cross and a flat, 22 head with an extension cord and a wrench. I did it easier using a set of fittings and assembly tools from Matrix. I’ll tell you a good set. I advise. Before starting work, be sure to remove the positive terminal from the battery output.
Well, let's get started Remove the steering wheel. To do this, carefully remove the signal panel from the steering wheel.
Disconnect the wire for the signal from the steering wheel
Unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel and remove it
We tighten two self-tapping screws and remove the upper cover of the steering column switch block
Next, we unscrew the two self-tapping screws that secure the dashboard.We take it out and disconnect the two connectors.
We loosen the hexagon bolt through the hole in the bottom cover and remove the steering column switch block, simultaneously removing two connectors.
Now we need to remove the center console. We remove the radio tape recorder, then remove the stove control knobs. When removing, be careful not to break them. To do this, gently pull them towards you, prying them off with a screwdriver. Unscrew the two self-tapping screws under the extreme handles and remove the decorative strip.
Under it, unscrew the four screws and two screws securing the ashtray.
Now we need to remove the shelf under the driver's feet and the glove compartment at the feet of the passenger seat next to the driver.
We move aside the plastic cover under the ashtray and unscrew the two bolts that secure the middle of the console.
We remove the decorative plugs on the sides of the main console and unscrew the bolts
Now unscrew the nut that secures the center console to the stove. It is located on the side of the glove compartment.
Disconnect this connector from the driver's side
Gently pull on the center console, slightly lifting it. Disconnect the remaining connectors along the way.
We remove the pipes from stoves in the engine compartment, if not yet removed and jammed like me. In the area of the ignition coil there is a nut screwed onto a bolt with a large washer - we tighten it. Under it, 15 centimeters lower, exactly the same - unscrew.
We remove the passenger wiper. Remove the cover covering the air intake filter of the stove. Remove the filter and the filter tray itself. Next, unscrew the two studs that secure the stove to the body. From the passenger compartment, gently pull the stove towards you, shaking it from side to side. We take out the stove radiator and put a new one in its place. Then we assemble in the reverse order. Read also about replacing the stove on the Volkswagen Passat. Successful stove replacement!
PS. If the engine of your car has begun to junk, then a post check before diagnostics will help you. If this does not help, then a post self-diagnosis of cars will help solve the problem. In order to diagnose a car, you will need diagnostic equipment for cars.
Here is all that needs to be dismantled to get to the stove radiator. But first of all, as with almost any repair, it is necessary to remove the terminal from the battery for the safety of the car's electrical equipment.
We proceed to remove the steering wheel. To do this, gently, but applying a certain effort, pull on each of the corners of the signal panel.
Then we disconnect the wire coming to the steering wheel.
We unscrew and remove the steering wheel itself, having previously marked its position on the shaft using a marker.
Remove the top cover of the steering switch block by unscrewing two self-tapping screws.
Next, we unscrew the two self-tapping screws that fix the dashboard. We carefully remove it, while disconnecting the two connectors on each side.
Then release the bolt slightly through the oval hole on the bottom of the steering switch box bottom cover.
Next, we pull the switch block towards ourselves, disconnect the two connectors. At the same time, we remove the rubber plug on the ignition lock.
We proceed to remove the central panel.
First of all, we remove the radio tape recorder. Carefully remove the stove control knobs by pulling them towards ourselves.
Unscrew the self-tapping screws under the left and right handles and remove the decorative strip.
Next, unscrew 4 more self-tapping screws securing the stove control unit to the center console. We also unscrew the 2 self-tapping screws securing the ashtray.
We proceed to remove the shelf under the driver's feet. To do this, remove the suction handle (if available) by pressing with a thin screwdriver from the bottom on the latch, while pulling the suction handle towards you.
Then we remove the shelf under the driver's feet. Everything is simple here, we unscrew all the bolts and remove it.
It is advisable to remove the glove compartment as well, but I did not take it off. Then carefully move the plastic cover at the bottom under the ashtray and unscrew two bolts on each side.
Next, carefully remove the 2 plugs on the sides on each side of the main panel and unscrew the bolts.
Then we unscrew the two nuts that attach the stove to the central panel.One nut on the side of the glove compartment, the other on the driver's side.
Disconnect the driver's side connector.
Then we gently pull the panel towards ourselves, lifting it slightly to the top. Along the way, disconnecting the remaining connectors.
Next, we disconnect the six latches on the duct and unscrew the two self-tapping screws on the lower duct.
Then, in the engine compartment, unscrew the two heater mounting nuts. Do not forget to disconnect the hoses from the stove radiator.
Next, in the cabin, gently pull the stove towards you. Then we unscrew the two self-tapping screws and, snapping off the two latches, pull the stove radiator itself up to the top.
Before pulling out the heater radiator, you will additionally need to remove the frill from the side of the hood and unscrew the air intake.
Dismantled stove radiator. The assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
The stove was leaking on my Audi 80, I had to do something ... But for this you need to remove it first. It is not easy to do this, the whole day was spent on the procedure.
The following tool came in handy:
pliers;
insulating tape;
head "24", large knob;
head "8.10", small knob, extension to it not less than 10 cm;
crosshead screwdriver;
the key is "at 8.10".
Of course, a new heater radiator is also needed. The original VAG 8D1 819 030 B radiator will cost plus or minus 7,000 rubles. Analogs of Meyle 100 819 0002, AVA AI 6097, Behr-Hella 8FH 351 311-421, Nissens 70224, Termal 110224BA and others. Their cost ranges from 500 to 3500 rubles.
In order for the car heating system to work normally, it is necessary to maintain the working condition of all its components and mechanisms. One of these is a radiator device. If this element fails, the driver will know about it the very first time the heater is turned on. How to replace the radiator of the Audi 80 stove and in what cases it is necessary - read in this article.
By what signs can you determine that the radiator of the stove Audi 80 B3, B4, Audi 100 C4 or any other model needs repair or replacement:
Leaking coolant. In this case, the radiator of the Audi 80 B4 stove could fail, or the pipes may be damaged.
Cold air comes out of the blowers, while the heater is set to warm.
The heating system heats up for a long time before blowing cold.
Replacing the radiator of the Audi 100 stove is not an especially easy task; to complete it you will need several hours of free time and all the necessary tools. For the latter, you will need to prepare standard locksmith tools including wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, etc. In order to properly remove the heater stove, we recommend that you strictly follow all the actions specified in the instructions (the author of the video is the Masterskaya DU channel).
So, how to replace the device at home:
Assessment becomes available after renting a video. This feature is currently unavailable. Please try again later. Stove radiator replacement on Audi 80 - Duration: 3:36 Car Repair 26,751 views.
Car repair. The stove was leaking on my Audi 80, I had to do something. But for this you need to remove it first. It is not easy to do this, the whole day was spent on the procedure.
Description of the video. Car repair. The stove was leaking on my Audi 80, I had to do something for 1 year. AUDI 80 Home, Audi repair, radiator replacement.
Then we assemble in the reverse order. A great opportunity to strike up a new relationship with a continuation in real life. Now unscrew the nut that secures the center console to the stove. Everything is simple here, we unscrew all the bolts and remove it.
We pull the steering column unit towards ourselves, disconnect the two white wire connectors to the right and left of the steering column. We take out the ashtray from the passenger side and unscrew two screws under it, in this case one.
Under the left and right handles, unscrew the two bolts and remove the stove control panel overlay. In the area of the radio, you need to unscrew one bolt and two small nuts on the left and right. They attach the air ducts to the stove. We open the driver's and passenger doors. At the ends of the torpedo there are two plugs on each side, we take them out.
Let's start outdoor work. There are two nuts with large nuts in the area of the ignition coil.One at the top, the second at a little lower.
We take out the cabin filter, if any. We unscrew the two nuts securing the filter trough to the stove box. We snap off the tape clamps and take out the box. In order to remove the stove block without problems, it is necessary, first, to pull out the ventilation ducts, which are located above the center console, where until recently the dashboard was attached.
Then gently pull the block towards you. It is not necessary to apply too much force, otherwise you can break something. Cold air blows from the stove. We unscrew the two bolts on the left and right of the tunnel.
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Andrey
1 It is necessary to collect everything as it was. mikantara
Andrey43
Hamil
VANO
Andrey43 DnG
VANO
VANO
no, it’s definitely from the barrel antifrosis snatched in two days, although it was normal and now empty Andrey
Vano, the stove needs to be changed, of course, but in the service, don't go, they take a lot per shift because it's difficult to change, it's better to do it yourself.
VANO
mdaaaaaaaaaaaa. wolfboy
I, too, pissing along the stove radiator, the antifreeze quietly decreases, removed the shelf from the driver's side, felt the floor, it was damp there.
holod
Andrey43
I slowly change the heater radiator, I took it to Avtoclube on Lomonosov 5, for 1250 Nissens Denmark, and the old one was removed, my dear one was in '90, took out the stove and went nuts, so much rubbish, the foam rubber is all decomposed on the valves, now all the air ducts and the main part have been washed , everything is as good as new, but I hesitated to disassemble it, even in the cold under the open sky, I’m also doing this for the first time, I think it’s better to quietly do everything deliberately than in a hurry.
smertni4eg
I at -30 removed the current stove from a hundred VANO
wolfboy
Black
Video (click to play).
mikantara
Black
Such a problem is most often revealed with the onset of cold weather, which causes some inconvenience for the driver and passengers in the cabin. There are many reasons for failures, but most of them can be eliminated on your own.
They manifest themselves in the supply of cold air to the passenger compartment when the coolant supply valve to the heater radiator is fully open. Malfunctions can be roughly divided into the following types:
Complete cessation of warm air supply;
The stove fan does not work in all modes;
Failure of the interior heating system in one of the positions of the fan speed switch.
First of all, you need to make sure that the coolant is filled to the required level in the cooling system. Its lack may not affect the operation of the cooling system, and heating will be absent. If everything is normal with the level, then there may be no heat due to clogging of the stove radiator. This can happen when powdered formulations are used to seal leaks in the cooling system.
Heating problems may arise due to an air lock in the cooling system, which may appear during the replacement of the antifreeze or topping it up to the level.It will also be cool in the cabin when the air access to the stove radiator is closed. This can happen after the cable breaks, which opens the flap, as well as when the cabin filter is clogged.
Failure of the stove fan to work in all modes indicates that the fuse for the electric motor power circuit should be checked. This is F17 for a current of 30 amperes. Before replacing it, you need to check the circuit for a short circuit, otherwise it will burn out again. For such a check, a measuring device is needed. A tester or multimeter is well suited for such a check.
The electric motor operates at maximum speed when switched on directly to the on-board network, and in other positions the power is supplied through additional resistors. If one of them fails, there will be no revolutions in the switch position where it is installed. Most often, they fail when there is an additional load on the fan impeller. It can be safely replaced with a wire jumper, but in this case the speed of the electric motor will be maximum. There are known failures due to oxidation of the fan speed switch contacts. After removing the radio, it becomes possible to access the switch.
