Do-it-yourself stove repair Volkswagen Passat B4 dampers

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Volkswagen Passat B4 stove, damper from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In the process of repairing the stove, significant wear of the materials covering the dampers is often found. Repair of the Volkswagen Passat B3 stove flaps consists in replacing the coating, which minimizes the gap between the flap and the stove while maintaining functionality.

Incorrect operation of the dampers interferes with the rational distribution of air flows throughout the car interior, reducing the comfort of use, sometimes leading to unpleasant consequences such as a cold due to hypothermia of the legs. Insufficient airflow can lead to fogging, moisture will condense on the glass instead of being carried away with the air stream.

Before you start repairing the Passat B3 stove dampers, you need to get to them. The process of gaining access to the stove is quite time consuming and is described in sufficient detail in an article on repairing a stove radiator.

Having taken out the flaps from the stove, you can begin to inspect them.

The two main enemies of the damper coating are friction against the distribution block housing and the flowing coolant. Together, these factors turn the coating into dirty scraps that must be carefully removed. To do this, the shutters can be placed in a bath with acetone or another solvent, and then wipe off the remnants of the old coating. After wiping them dry, you can start gluing them with new material.

There are no general recommendations for the choice of material and glue - various heat-insulating and noise-insulating flexible soft materials are used, including those based on an adhesive base, up to 3 mm thick. From the selected material, you need to cut the linings along the contour of the flaps using a convenient blade, a construction knife, for example. Having coped with this task, you can start gluing.

Video (click to play).

The method of gluing should be chosen based on the time available for repairs - faster methods are less reliable and vice versa. If you have very little time, you can use double-sided foam tape, but you should not be surprised when a suddenly peeled backplate clogs the air duct. Popular brands of quick glue, despite their high reliability, have one significant drawback - most materials suitable for covering the dampers can be corroded by a solvent of rubber glue or cyanoacrylate "superglue", which will negate all their positive qualities. If you have enough time, you can use polyvinyl glue, which can be found under the brand name "Dragon". Its alcohol base will not corrode the coating, but it takes about a day to fully harden.

If the damper body itself has broken, it is not recommended to try to restore it. In the event of a final breakdown, fragments of the damper can damage other components of the heating system. It is easier and more reliable to install new ones.

Bonding all system elements

Many drivers complain about the structurally provided constant airflow to the legs. In the process of repairing the cover of the dampers, you can cope with this problem. To do this, you need to glue the walls of the distribution block of the stove with the same materials in the appropriate places, sealing the contact lines.

On the Volkswagen Passat b3 b4 repair of the stove damper for air supply to the radiator. To solve the main problem.

disassembling part of the stove, without removing the torpedo, in order to get to the main dampers takes no more than an hour. ...

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How to glue the dampers without removing the torpedo.

Subscribe to the Telegram channel: for PC: For mobile devices: @ PassatB3ManualClub It is not heating well.

a cable control device for dampers on the body of the Volkswagen Passat Golf Audi 80 generations.

Description of how to dismantle the torpedo and remove the plastic message from it. !! (((support the channel in the development of Sat 4276 8550 1249 4981)))) !!

The video show how to remove the dashboard of a VW Passat 35i. The removal is needed for repairs of the heating or airconditioning. The video instruction will.

48. Air duct "in the legs" back-top view (380)

49. Air duct "in the legs" bottom view (381)

"Intermediate finish" - plus 1 hour 40 minutes.

Next, we disassemble the flaps (rip off the paralon glued with double-sided tape). We wash off all the plastic. We make anew the "wrapping" of the flaps from the "lining" for a laminate with a thickness of 3mm. With a width of 1m, consumption

0.5m. The "lining" on the metal shutter (made of "galvanized" 1mm thick) is glued with the "Moment" glue. We adjust the protruding parts to minimize gaps (plus 5-7mm from the size of the metal shutter).
Putting together the "distribution block" in the reverse order.

Modifications to the "distribution block".
Constant inflation (due to large gaps in the dampers) is structurally provided for in all modes.
When I bought a car, the "lower" temperature sensor "thermotronic" did not work for me, so the electronics believed that it was hot in the car and the "stove" always drove cold air. Also, the damper “in the legs” - “on the glass” did not work. In the service, it seems that the cable was adjusted and it became more or less normal. But all the same, my legs were always blown ... that ended up in 2 weeks of hospital. The design itself is based on "blowing" at the legs - ALWAYS! I don't like it ... and I decided to fix it by gluing additional seals, as shown in the photo (402)

Shown here are the flaps in the position of the control unit - "in feet" (408)

Eliminating the flap gap "in the face" consists in gluing one layer of "lining" 3 mm thick on the wall of the "distribution block" (the gap is practically selected, no more than 0.5 mm remains). And additionally we glue 2 more layers on top (width 12mm) from wall to wall and fill the edges under the technological tides (standard damper stops) (387)

The flap now closes very tightly. Which was required.
Flap "in the face" (375)

in the photo is set INCORRECTLY. It is placed, just by hand, in reality it moves only 45 degrees relative to its "closed position in the legs"! CORRECT open position (387)!

Updated damper "through the stove" - "past the stove" (388)

Shown in position - "past the stove". If you pull off the "latches" on the body, then the visible gap between the body and the flap disappears. The damper perforation is visible through the "gasket".
Flap "on the glass" - "at the feet" (389)

shown in the position "in the legs" (upper position). The design clearance between the damper and the body is about 3-5 mm, which is enough for a constant "blow" on the glass. And here (390)

this flap is in the position - "on the glass" (lower position). The flow "to the face" should be completely blocked by the dampers on the torpedo.

Even though this is somewhat out of topic ..., but let it be here, as it refers, albeit indirectly, to - the stove. This is the fan snail and the fan itself. The fan is removed from the cochlea by lifting the antennae and turning the fan housing clockwise (5-10 degrees), relative to the cochlea (392)

Fan and snail apart (393)

Removing, we see a LOT of accumulated dust on all surfaces of the fan. The fan, if necessary, can be removed without "causing destruction" in the car ...

"Intermediate finish" - plus 8 hours.

Now I'm sitting and waiting for a new radiator for the stove - Behr, which is due to arrive at Exist on Wednesday-Thursday. Further finishing assembly, I think, should not take more than 3-4 hours. The B4 cabin filter should arrive in 2 weeks. Let's see how much it is possible to engraft it. Theoretically, engraftment is possible, since both B3 and B4 have the same duct (part number - 893.819.015B). And the body of the cabin filter should sit on the same bolts and be fixed with clasps.

Here came Monday evening ... and surprisingly, a notification came from "Exist" that the ordered stove radiator arrived (it came, surprisingly, 2 days ahead of schedule). Ordered "Behr" ..., it came - "Behr" in the package "Hella" (382)

The packaging is solid, inside it is packed with polyethylene with large "air bags" (not the classic packaging "pimply" - "click") and, in addition, two self-adhesive foam tapes (with a one and a half margin). Here is the old original (left) and new (right) (383)

If you look closely, you can see that the plates are installed on the new radiator - less often. I was not too lazy and counted: old - 295, new - 225 records. Winter will come, we will find out how it will warm. Of the "jambs", the new radiator did not fit into its cell (2mm higher). It's good that the "bottom cup" is removed from it, which was modified by cutting off 3mm. This, so that later, the lining will fit. Everything has been cut off around the perimeter, internal supports and lintels (384)

There is such a gap (this is what we need), since the "glass" hangs on its standard "latches" (385)

Here is another view of the "cup" and radiator tube (396)

Removing the front panel of a car is laborious and time consuming. In this article, using the example of a Volkswagen Passat, it will be shown how to glue the stove flaps of a car and with what exactly, without removing the torpedo.

We disassemble the torpedo pad ("beard") - unscrew all the screws and remove it.
The upper and lower glove compartments, radio tape recorder and deflectors are removed.
The central air duct is pulled out - it is held by two latches, which must be snapped off and removed.
To prevent the front panel from interfering with reaching the air duct, unscrew one of its two main bolts and pull it slightly towards you.

After this procedure, the flaps are already visible, and they can be glued. The direction of blowing and the hot / cold air damper are glued.

On the Volkswagen Passat b3 b4 repair of the stove damper for air supply to the radiator. To solve the main problem "the stove does not heat, the air is barely blowing" without removing the torpedo - (dashboards) this repair method is suitable for cars Audi 80 b3 b4 Volkswagen Golf 3

disassembling part of the stove, without removing the torpedo, in order to get to the main dampers takes no more than an hour. !! (((support the channel in the development of Sat 4276 8550 1249 4981)))) !!

Subscribe to the Telegram channel: for PC: For mobile devices: @ PassatB3ManualClub Does the stove heat up badly? What to do? Leaky dampers may be one of the reasons! In Volkswagen Passat b3 b4 it happens. )) Bad heating stove? What to do? One of the reasons may be leaky shutters! In the folkwagens trade wind b3 b4 it happens. )) Badly heated by the trade mark b3

Everything is simple and not expensive. If anyone is more specific, then I will help as much as I can. Forgot to add. You need a large boiler in the bucket when rinsing with citric acid.

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inspired by watching Igor Grak's channel, but the motor parameters after this revision

video for those who have a bunch of keys to the car and every time they are not used to it is necessary to select the key to the locks to open the car and leave :-) video on the example of Volkswagen Passat b3

Attention! Car service network of favorable prices. Camber check is FREE! No queues! Repair on the same day!

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COLD AIR BLOWS. Volkswagen Passat B3 (one of the reasons) [Badly heated by the trade Passat b3]

if the stove does not heat up, repair the damper without removing the torpedo on the Volkswagen Passat b3 b4

The stove is not heating well. What to do? Volkswagen Passat B3 - B4

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the engine is warmed up, the stove is blowing cold air - Volkswagen BORA

how to remove an airlock

And on golf 3 how to remove the stove heats badly

Guys, can you also take it off on golf 3 without disassembling the entire panel?

and what to do if the cold air blows constantly warm. it's always hot in the car

Hi. What should I do next? How to glue the damper? Have a video? Thanks in advance

Well done, I have the same thing

I have vento and blows into all the pipes and side and on the legs and on the rear passengers. The lobovuha freezes in winter, although you put the current blowing on the frontal one. Is there probably the same crumbling damper there?

Again. How did you use a long, thin screwdriver to pick up 2 staples that are behind? What is the access to them?

The most useful video - like and subscribe from me!

Buddy! Your version is correct. But there is one more reason. I think the fault may be the steel pipe that goes back to the pump. In the fall, CAPITAL capacity, at the same time removed the torpedo, changed the radiator of the stove and re-glued ALL the dampers. I am sure of the correctness of the assembly. But. in the city, in a dubak cabin, on the highway at minus 15, the vent-r of the stove was turned off altogether, it was hot. How can this be explained ?? My opinion is a pipe, tk. it is flattened in two places. By the way, I'm with Kolchugino

Hey! Can you please tell me how to glue the shutters? I have the same problem, and the radiator of the stove also leaked. The dampers have turned into dust, but I don’t know how to fix them .. Thanks for the answer in advance!

interesting back, it was probably difficult to snap, from the engine side of the box latches ??

WELL DONE! EVERYTHING IS CLEAR AND BRIEF! THANKS!

Hello, is this damper also arranged on the climate-controlled stove for the Passat B3? there the drives are not a cable, but there are electric and vacuum drives.

Stove Volkswagen Passat

The Volkswagen Passat stove heats very well, everything in the heating system is thought out with German pedantry.

But sometimes you have to deal with the fact that the stove does not heat on the Volkswagen Passat B3, or does not heat well, the stove leaks, the dampers crumbled, the control cables of the VW Passat B3 stove break.

In order to have at least some idea of how the Volkswagen Passat stove works, I decided to post a drawing with the original catalog numbers for VAG.

Stove Volkswagen Passat B3, consists (figure):

I will not stop and tell you that to replace the heater radiator or repair the stove flaps, you need to completely disassemble the entire torpedo.

I will only say that if you want the stove to heat up as expected, then you need to install only good heater radiators: Valeo 812 030, Hella 8FH 351 311-041, Nissens 73962.

Read also: DIY alpina trimmer repair

The same heater radiators are installed on the Skoda Octavia A4, so there are no problems with purchasing a high-quality stove.

The rest of the stoves heat poorly, if not worse.

So you need to choose, a cheap fake and cold in a car, or just take a normal Volkswagen Passat stove and drive in cold weather normally.

And if you consider that to replace the Volkswagen Passat stove, you need to remove the entire torpedo, then only one conclusion suggests itself.

Found on the Internet a video of replacing and repairing a heater radiator, from Polish colleagues-owners of VW Passat B3 - Replacing the heater radiator Volkswagen Passat B3

If you have any questions or additions, please feel free to write in the comments.

Hello! Last time I wrote about how to change the stove radiator for an Audi 80. Today I will continue this topic and consider replacing the stove with a Volkswagen Passat. As always, before starting work, do not forget to remove the positive terminal from the battery, so as not to damage the electrical equipment of the car. The first thing we need to do is remove the steering wheel. To do this, using moderate effort, remove the signal panel from the steering wheel.

Here we see a brown wire going to the signal plate. We remove it and the signal plate.

Next, we see the nut that secures the steering wheel. We unscrew it and remembering the position of the steering wheel, remove it. Now you need to unscrew the two bolts securing the front panel of the instrument panel and remove it.

We unscrew the two screws securing the instrument panel and carefully remove it by pulling it towards you. At the back, it is necessary to disconnect the connector and disconnect the speedometer cable.

Now let's move on to removing the bottom panel at the driver's feet, having previously unscrewed all the bolts.

Remove the cover of the steering column switch block. To do this, you need to unscrew two self-tapping screws. Also, do not forget to remove the upper part of the steering column switch block.

Unscrew the three bolts securing the steering column switches, disconnect all connectors from it and remove the switch unit.

Now you need to remove the shelf under the passenger's feet. To do this, unscrew all the bolts and remove the shelf. Also remember to remove the bolts on both sides of the center console.

Remove the retaining metal plates. One from the driver's side, the other from the glove compartment.

Then lift up the skin on the gearshift lever, under it you will see two plastic nuts. Unscrew them. Remove the rear ashtray, remove the two bolts under it.

Now you can raise the center console and remove the wire from the cigarette lighter.

Next, unscrew the two bolts securing the center console to the body.

We proceed to removing the decorative cover for the stove control. Do not forget to unscrew the necessary screws beforehand. We also do not forget to remove the radio tape recorder.

Remove the heater control unit. Also unscrew the bolt securing the front air duct to the stove.

Now it's time to remove the plastic plugs on the sides of the panel and unscrew the bolts under them.

Then you can gently pull the panel towards you. At the same time, disconnect the interfering connectors along the way. In general, it is better to work with a partner, it’s easier to do this. True, I removed the panel myself.

Well, now that the panel has been removed, let's proceed to "conjure" further. Disconnect the six spring latches and unscrew the self-tapping screws securing the lower air duct.

Next, open the hood, slightly drain the antifreeze from the engine cooling system and remove the pipes from the stove radiator. Unscrew the two nuts securing the stove radiator. One nut is hidden under the plug.

Now you can safely pull out the radiator and install a new one in its place. Just use a good quality radiator, not a dubious one. Since the original radiator has special twisted strips inserted in the core tubes, which gives a greater effect of the heat transfer of the antifreeze to the air passing through the radiator. Don't skimp on your health ... ..

The assembly is carried out upside-down. Pay special attention to the cable system to keep everything working. Remember to reconnect the connectors that were previously disconnected. After assembly, top up with coolant. Warm up the engine to operating temperature and check the heater operation. If cold air comes out of the stove, then the radiator has become airy, and it is necessary to remove air from it. This is done by simple partial removal of one of the nozzles (before the formation of a gap) on the stove with the engine running until the air is completely exhausted. Good luck with the repair!

Everything is simple and not expensive. If anyone is more specific, then I will help as much as I can. Forgot to add. You need a large boiler in the bucket when rinsing with citric acid.

inspired by watching Igor Grak's channel, but the motor parameters after this revision

video for those who have a bunch of keys to the car and every time they are not used to it, you need to pick up the key to the locks to open the car and leave :-) video on the example of Volkswagen Passat b3

Show control panel

And on golf 3 how to remove the stove heats badly

Guys, can you also take it off on golf 3 without disassembling the entire panel?

and what to do if the cold air blows constantly warm. it's always hot in the car

Hi. What should I do next? How to glue the damper? Have a video? Thanks in advance

Well done, I have the same thing

I have vento and blows into all the nozzles, both side and on the legs and on the rear passengers. Lobovuha freezes in winter, although you put the current blowing on the frontal one. Is there probably the same crumbling damper there?

Again. How did you use a long, thin screwdriver to pick up 2 staples that are behind? What is the access to them?

The most useful video - like and subscribe from me!

interesting back, it was probably difficult to snap, from the engine side of the box latches ??

WELL DONE! EVERYTHING IS CLEAR AND BRIEF! THANKS!

Hello, is this damper also arranged on the climate-controlled stove for the Passat B3? there the drives are not a cable, but there are electric and vacuum drives.

Buddy! Your version is correct. But there is one more reason. I think the fault may be the steel pipe that goes back to the pump. In the fall, CAPITAL capacity, at the same time removed the torpedo, changed the radiator of the stove and re-glued ALL the dampers. I am sure of the correctness of the assembly. in the city, in a dubak cabin, on the highway at minus 15, the vent-r of the stove was turned off altogether, it was hot. How can this be explained ?? My opinion is a pipe, tk. it is flattened in two places. By the way, I'm with Kolchugino

interesting back, it was probably difficult to snap, from the engine side of the box latches ??

The most useful video - like and subscribe from me!

And on golf 3 how to remove the stove heats badly

Guys, can you also take it off on golf 3 without disassembling the entire panel?

and what to do if the cold air blows constantly warm. it's always hot in the car

Again.How did you use a long, thin screwdriver to pick up 2 staples that are behind? What is the access to them?

Hello, is this damper also arranged on the climate-controlled stove for the Passat B3? there the drives are not a cable, but there are electric and vacuum drives.

Hi. What should I do next? How to glue the damper? Have a video? Thanks in advance

WELL DONE! EVERYTHING IS CLEAR AND BRIEF! THANKS!

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plywood DAMPERS of the stove