DIY vaz 2104 stove repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2104 stove from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

First, you need to drain the coolant by unscrewing the plug, which is located on the left side of the engine "in the direction of the vehicle" at the bottom of the block.

For clarity, in some of the images, the view of the interior of the seventh model of the Zhiguli is used

Place a clean container of at least 10 liters under the bottom of the engine. It is better to choose something like a basin as a container, or do it as shown in the figure.

Many motorists bypass the antifreeze drain procedure, hoping for their reaction and strong nerves. But believe me, it's better to spend 10 minutes on this so that you can work comfortably further. Moreover, there are often always cracked pipes of the cooling system, near the pump or radiator, which it is better to replace immediately, if you do not want to get your hands dirty again after a couple of months.

Important: If the antifreeze or antifreeze has a brown or dark brown tint, it is better to replace the liquid.

After the coolant is drained, loosen the clamps and disconnect the inlet and outlet pipes of the stove.

First you need to remove the shelf under the glove compartment, for this we unscrew the screws in the places shown in the figure. The picture shows the shelf of the storage compartment of the VAZ 2106, on the VAZ 2104 there is still a central fastening screw (its approximate position is shown with a green arrow).

Then we remove the radio mounting panel (beard) in the following sequence (operations 1-7 are indicated for the VAZ 2107).

Using a screwdriver, bend the latches, pull out the additional panel.

We disconnect the power wires of the devices, before removing, be sure to mark the wires with a marker or serifs.

Video (click to play).

Use a screwdriver to bend around the antennae of the switches and carefully remove them.

We bend the latches of the front cover, remove it.

We unscrew the two screws securing the console.

Slightly above the radio receiver shaft, unscrew 2 nuts of the "beard" with a 10 key.

Once again, we carefully inspect the attachment points of the console, whether nothing prevents us from removing it, and carefully dismantle it.

When the front console is removed, we disconnect the right and left air ducts, they are also fastened with latches.

In order to get to the screws for fastening the tubes of the VAZ 2104 stove, the right air duct and glove compartment must be removed, as shown in the figure below.

The figure below shows the same pipes for the heater radiator.

With a key for 10 we wrap the 4th fastening screws (red arrows).

Remove the latches on the left and right sides (green arrow) of the bottom of the stove.

If your heater tap is controlled with a cable, then disconnect its mount.

To remove the lower part of the stove, you still need to unscrew two fasteners, their location is shown in the figure below.

To get to these screws, you need to remove the stove control levers panel, shown in the figure below.

After everything has been unscrewed and disconnected, the lower part of the stove with a motor is gently pulled out by hand. If necessary, we inspect and replace the fan and motor of the vaz stove. At a minimum, the stove motor needs to be disassembled, cleaned from drinking and lubricated.

We removed the lower part of the stove, now you can remove the stove radiator from the upper part, shown in the figure below.

That's all, now you need to diagnose the heater radiator and decide to buy a new one or repair the old one, the first option is certainly better.

For any car operating in the cold season, the importance of perfect heater operation cannot be overemphasized. You can treat the heat in different ways, but you will hardly find those who like to ride in the car in felt boots and fur mittens.Therefore, any heater malfunction that occurs in winter will be considered a disaster, regardless of the make and model of the vehicle. If we talk about the VAZ-2105 stove, then it is difficult to call it a technically perfect device - heater breakdowns are not so rare, and the heating efficiency raises questions for many owners. Therefore, the improvement and repair of the VAZ 2105 stove are procedures that are of interest to most owners of the "five" who are forced to use a sedan even in severe frosts.

The scheme of the heating system of the VAZ classics is by and large standard, but there are still a number of features. The car interior is heated according to a well-known scheme - with outside air, which is heated in a heater radiator connected to the cooling system. In the "five" outside air intake occurs through the grilles located on the hood near the windshield. This air duct is isolated from the engine compartment in order to prevent smoky air from the engine compartment from entering the passenger compartment. Getting on the reflector, the outside air is separated from the water (which is important in rainy weather), changes direction and moves in the direction of the stove radiator. The amount of air supplied for heating can be adjusted using a lever that controls the position of the air distribution cover.

The heater radiator is included in the cooling system circuit after the power unit, so the antifreeze that gets into the radiator is very hot. Outside cold air entering the walls of the stove radiator tubes heats up, cooling the antifreeze, and is already hot enters the fan. The fan speed can be controlled using a three-position switch located in the passenger compartment. The fan directs hot air to the air duct nozzles for heating the windscreen and side windows, driver / passenger feet and the upper section of the passenger compartment.

A feature of the VAZ-2105 heating system is the presence of exhaust ventilation. The air is removed from the passenger compartment through the decorative grilles installed on the rear side panels. In order to prevent outside air from entering the interior through the decorative grilles in case of strong crosswinds, a valve is integrated into the corresponding air duct, which allows air to flow in only one direction.

Read also: DIY laminate chip repair

According to the manufacturer, in severe frost (exceeding minus 25 ° C), the heater is able to warm the air in the cabin up to 25 ° C, and in the leg area - up to 30 ° C. In reality, such indicators are achieved only on a new car - over time, the radiator and air ducts become clogged, and the heating efficiency drops sharply. Therefore, when the first signs of such a deterioration appear, it is necessary to find out the cause of the phenomenon and take measures to eliminate the problems.

Let's consider the main reasons causing inoperability or a decrease in the efficiency of the "five" heating system:

often the reason for the deterioration of the heating of the passenger compartment is a decrease in the level of antifreeze in the cooling system. If the car has been in operation for a long time, this phenomenon can be considered quite natural, but with a sharp drop in the level, it is necessary to look for the reasons. If a leak is found, it should be eliminated, the coolant should be added and the airlock removed by pushing the hoses on the running power unit;
a malfunction of the thermostat, which is responsible for the possibility of circulating coolant along a large or small circuit, can also cause the impossibility of reaching the required temperature regime, as well as a breakdown of the heater faucet;
A common cause of reduced heating efficiency is a clogged stove radiator. You can localize the malfunction by touch when the power unit is running: in the place of strong clogging of the radiator cells, there will be a noticeable temperature drop;
finally, problems may arise due to a non-working or not working at full strength of the heater fan.

As a rule, the restoration of the working capacity of the heating system of the VAZ classics is possible on its own - these models have been produced for over 40 years and have been fairly well studied. Let's consider how to fix the main malfunctions of the "five" stove with your own hands.

On the VAZ 2101-2107 family of models, the thermostat is a valve that regulates the way the antifreeze circulates through the cooling system: in a large circle, including a radiator and a heating system circuit, or in a small circle. The valve is triggered when the coolant temperature at its inlet reaches 80-85 degrees. At this moment, it opens, letting the heated liquid into an additional circuit, which serves to heat the passenger compartment. If, for any reason, the antifreeze temperature drops below the operating value, the valve is triggered to close a large circuit. Common thermostat malfunctions:

the valve opens partially or does not work at all, which can cause overheating of the power unit;
the thermostat valve does not close - this causes the engine to warm up very slowly.

To check the functionality of the unit, it is necessary to check the temperature of response of the thermostat, as well as the stroke of the valve stem, but this requires the presence of special equipment. An easier way to make sure that the device is malfunctioning is to feel the thermostat with the engine running by touch.

With a working temperature regulator, the lower radiator tank after starting the power unit should heat up gradually, when the arrow on the coolant temperature indicator reaches values close to the red zone (heating of the antifreeze to 80-85 degrees). If heating occurs immediately after starting the motor, the thermostat does not close. If the engine overheats quickly, this indicates that the valve wedges, that is, it does not open completely. In both cases, the thermostat must be replaced. It is carried out in the following order:

we drain the antifreeze from the system;
we loosen the clamp on the inlet pipe and the pipe going to the car's radiator, disconnect both pipes;
we do a similar operation with respect to the pump nozzles, after which the thermostat can be pulled towards you and disconnected the remaining nozzles;
you can try to restore the thermostat to work by lowering it into a pot of boiling water for 5-10 minutes, then cool it sharply by placing it in cold water. It is necessary to repeat the operation several more times. In some cases, this helps - the valve starts to work. If such a repair does not help, you will have to fork out for a new thermostat;
installation in a regular place is carried out in the reverse order; if necessary, we replace the unusable clamps with new ones.

If the tap does not work, you can try to turn it by hand. If this does not help, as well as if a faucet leak is found, it must be replaced with a new one. Improved ceramic faucets are now on sale. They are much more durable than metal ones, since they practically do not stick, do not sour, do not rust even after a long idle time of the car. To replace the heater tap, removing the VAZ 2105 stove is not required, and the procedure itself is performed in the following sequence:

dismantle the pipe seal, which is attached to the body partition between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment using two self-tapping screws - they must be unscrewed;

we move to the salon, remove the protective casing of the furnace fan;

disconnect the draft of the electric fan;

We remove the radiator, making sure that no residual antifreeze spills out of the seats for the pipes (it is recommended to cover the floor of the cabin in the area of the stove with a sufficient amount of rags).

If you plan to install an old radiator, it is recommended that you perform a tightness test after flushing it. The check is quite simple: the inlet is tightly closed, and the outlet of the compressor installation is connected to the outlet. We turn on the compressor, and lower the radiator into a container with water. The presence of air bubbles will indicate the location of the leakage of the device.

If we talk about fan malfunctions, it should be noted that the repair of the VAZ 2105 cabin stove often involves the installation of a more powerful fan. A power drive is installed on the "five", powered by a current of 4.6 A and allowing the impeller to spin up to 3 thousand revolutions / minute. On the VAZ 2107, the motor is much more powerful - it operates on a current of 14 A, spinning the shaft up to 4100 rpm. True, it is slightly different in size from a five-fan fan, so when installing it, you will need to cut the motor in some places. A good option would be to install a five-blade fan installed on a classic - its motor is both lighter and much more powerful. Algorithm for removing the heater fan VAZ 2105:

To further remove the beard, we need to remove the panel with the clock and the cigarette lighter, pry it on the right or left side with a flat screwdriver and pull it out of the latches:

Then, we disconnect the wires from the clock, the cigarette lighter (for ease of assembly, I would advise you to mark them), remove the socket to the side and get access to two nuts, it will be convenient to use a socket key for 10

We unscrew the nuts, do not lose the washers, look down, where are the buttons. There is a decorative plug in the corner that looks at the rear passengers, we pry it with a screwdriver, and under it we see two screws screwed into the tunnel:

We unscrew them, disconnect the pads from the buttons, the panel no longer holds anything. We move it aside and get access to the stove body:

Now, we disconnect the side air ducts, carefully remove them from the latches with a flat screwdriver (the photo shows how they snap into place):

We are interested in the lower and middle parts of the 2107 stove body, in order to remove them you need to get close to the metal latches, there are only four of them - two on each side, here they are:

It can be problematic to snap them off with your hands, we recommend using a screwdriver, as in this picture:

After the latches are removed (when removing, be careful, they can “shoot” and fly away in an unknown direction), the lower part of the stove body can be easily pulled out by hand:

So we see our motor. The motor itself is kept in the lower part of the case, too, on two metal latches, we snap them off, disconnect the terminals

and remove our motor from the stove body:

That's all, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order, about 40 minutes were spent on everything. By analogy, the replacement of the stove motor is made on the VAZ-2105 and VAZ-2104, the only difference is in the beard itself and its fasteners. A little later we will tell you about the nuances of replacing the stove motor in these and other VAZ models. Good luck on the road and don't let the car break down. We will be glad to see you in our club VAZ classics on the forum.

The design of the stove (ventilation and heating systems) of the VAZ 2107

1 - left side window heating duct;

2 - air duct for heating the windshield;

3 - heater radiator casing;

4 - air intake cover;
5 - heater radiator;

7 - radiator outlet pipe;

8 - radiator inlet pipe;

Dear friends, winter is coming, frosts, cold snap, thaws are coming, and depending on the weather, many are wondering how to set up a stove in a VAZ based on external climatic factors. I never thought that this question so often arises in the claasikovod, but remembering myself, who first encountered a calssical stove still on a “penny” in the period of the “dashing” nineties, I realized that I was not the only one who was confused by the presence of three stove control levers in the seven (in their penny just two) and the process of understanding how to configure them.

I represent the climate control in the seven based on the SAUO VAZ-2110.

-The heater tap 2108 is ceramic.
-Controller SAUO VAZ 2110, five-position, old model (0-A-1-2-3).
- Micromotor reducer (ММР) of the heater damper drive 2110.
- Interior temperature sensor.
-Crane drive cable.
The principle of operation of the system - in the original, at 2110, the system maintains the set temperature in the cabin by moving the heater flap, supplying air flow through the constantly hot radiator of the heater, either bypassing or mixing both directions.In my version, the system controls the heater tap.

I want to bring to your attention my version of the revision of the classic stove. First, I will say that a serviceable Zhiguli heater copes with its task quite successfully, it is warm in the car even in severe frost, but at the same time it has a number of significant drawbacks that every classic driver wants to get rid of. This is a strong annoying noise, and insufficient blowing of the windshield and side windows, and a small number of heater fan speeds.

It all started with the fact that the fifth complete stove and the old chisel motor of the stove with an impeller turned out to be in my hands "completely free". This allowed me to experiment slowly while continuing to drive my car with a stock heater.

The disadvantages of a regular stove are known to every classic breeder, this is the poor airflow in the side nozzles. and the lack of heating for the rear passengers and a small air flow and a lot of noise, well, in general, all the shortcomings cannot be counted. On the Internet, many articles have been written about installing a stove motor from 08 into a classic, replacing a native impeller on it. but all that the 08 motor with a standard impeller gives is only a slight increase in the air flow and noise reproduced by this very impeller. We will radically alter the standard stove, namely, install not the motor 08, but the complete snail into it (the standard impeller of the snail 08 is much quieter than the impeller of the classics and the air flow creates an incomparably greater air flow), and completely remake the lower part of the stove so that the snail can fit into it , and the air flow was uniform and strong in all directions.

The material was provided by the user of our forum "Olezhek" for which many thanks to him. For a long time, the noise of the stove interfered and was annoyed by the poor blowing of the left driver's glass, on the advice of the members of the forum (with my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/139) completely disassembled the stove and cut out of it the third support of the stove engine (the one that is directed to the side engine), left the motor on the bushings (which, literally a couple of months later, I regretted and had to disassemble it again and changed it to a bearing one) after this alteration, the blowing into the left air duct became much stronger with the lid closed, but I think I still need to cut one the jumper that I did not cut off for the first time.

Video (click to play).

In principle, the classics have a relatively good stove. When it is fully functional, it heats up very well, although it has one significant flaw in the design. The stove is so arranged that air practically does not blow into the left branch pipe, from the driver's side, which should blow onto the driver's side window - this is such a bad feature or a miscalculation in its design. And in winter this is already a very noticeable drawback, you have to wipe the glass with a cloth or open the window, which is not very convenient in cold weather. The revision of the left branch pipe will be discussed. The meaning of the revision is to put a fan in the branch pipe that will forcibly supply air from the stove.