Do-it-yourself vaz 2114 stove repair only cold air blows
In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2114 stove blows only cold air from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
A good stove heater is installed in the passenger compartment of front-wheel drive VAZ cars - in winter, Zhiguli is warm enough. But sometimes various problems arise - the stove blows with cold air (VAZ 2110, VAZ 2114, other Samara models).
In summer, car owners practically do not use the stove and remember about it only when the first cold weather sets in. If on VAZ 2114 (2115) cars the stove blows with cold air, there may be several reasons for this phenomenon:
the heater motor does not work:
stove radiator clogged with dirt;
air has entered the cooling system;
the head gasket is burnt out;
the stove faucet has soured and does not open;
a cable flew off the faucet, or it broke;
faulty thermostat;
insufficient level of antifreeze in the radiator;
low performance of the water pump.
On 2114 cars, it often happens that hot air blows only from the central deflectors, and cold air comes out of the dashboard on the sides. The reason for such a malfunction is a break in the cables or their jumping off the flaps that direct the air flow to the center or to the side deflectors.
Often, drivers also complain that the stove is blowing cold air at idle and low engine speeds; while the car is moving, the interior warms up. The reasons can also be different, but in order to solve the problem, you need to start troubleshooting sequentially, checking the status of all nodes.
The reasons for the lack of hot air in the passenger compartment of auto models VAZ 2110-2111-2112 are generally the same as on 2113-2114-2115, but on the "tens" and "dvenashki" there is also an additional automatic control system for the stove (SAUO), which may also crash periodically. The temperature sensor in the passenger compartment 2110 is located on the ceiling, and the damper is on the heater control unit, it is controlled by a micromotor gearbox. If the stove blows with cold air on VAZ 2110 cars, both the sensor itself and the heater control system may be faulty.
Video (click to play).
The search for a malfunction in the heating system of front-wheel drive VAZs should start with the stove motor:
turn on the ignition, start the engine;
on the heater control unit, we check the operation of the motor in all positions. If you can hear how the oven motor changes speed when switching the turntable, most likely it is in good working order.
The stove motor may not work for several reasons:
the fuse responsible for the operation of the electric motor has blown;
the contact in the mounting block is oxidized;
the switch itself is faulty;
there are breaks in the wiring;
the oven motor burned out.
If the motor only runs at maximum speed (third position), the resistor is most likely faulty.
When the stove motor burns out, it needs to be replaced. We carry out the work to replace the part as follows (for example 2114):
remove the decorative trim from the driver's side in the cabin;
Now it remains to install a new part, and fix all the removed parts in place.
The stove may blow out with cold air due to a malfunction in the cooling system. If the stove motor is serviceable, we look for the reason for supplying cold air to the passenger compartment instead of hot air in the following order:
open the hood, check the coolant level in the expansion tank, top up the antifreeze to the desired level if necessary;
we warm up the engine, pay attention to the readings of the temperature sensor on the instrument panel.If the temperature does not rise to the desired value, the valve in the thermostat may be faulty - it opens ahead of time;
also the cooling system can "air", often the reason for this phenomenon is a punctured head gasket. Cylinder head burnout may be accompanied by the following symptoms:
Antifreeze spills out of the expansion tank.
The gauge in the instrument panel shows a high temperature.
The engine is troit.
Antifreeze gets into the oil, the engine oil brightens.
If it breaks through the cylinder head gasket, often cold air blows into the passenger compartment only at low revs, when gas is poured, the cooling system "breaks through", and hot air begins to flow into the passenger compartment. Very often, replacing PHBC will solve the problem.
Problems with the stove faucet on VAZ 2108-15 cars are quite common - if the faucet is partially or completely closed, it does not allow hot antifreeze to flow into the stove radiator. The problem with the heater tap is that it sour over time, and the damper in it stops moving. To prevent the valve in the faucet from souring, it is necessary to turn it at least once a week, moving it to the open and closed position.
You can make sure that the faucet passes warm air by comparing the temperature of the pipes in the engine compartment and the passenger compartment - with the tap fully open, the pipes should be equally hot. Changing the heater faucet is quite troublesome, so you should buy good quality original parts for replacement.
Over time, the heating radiator of the VAZ 2108-15 may clog; on the VAZ it is in the cabin, under the dashboard on the passenger side. It should be noted that the radiators are not clogged with dirt so often, they mostly leak. A stove radiator leak is determined by the appearance of antifreeze on the carpet under the front passenger mat. To replace the heater radiator, you need to tinker a lot, disassemble almost half of the entire interior.
On cars of the VAZ 2110 and VAZ 2114 models, an air lock often forms in the cooling system, mainly it occurs:
due to loose connections in the nozzles (for example, the clamps are loosely tightened);
after replacing the coolant;
if PHBC is broken.
The plug can be removed in several ways (provided that the head gasket is not punctured), consider one of the options. To expel air from the cooling system, proceed as follows:
we put the car on a hillock so that the engine is higher in level;
we turn off the cover of the expansion tank;
pour the antifreeze into the tank to the maximum;
we start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature, increase the speed to somewhere around 3000;
gently squeeze the lower radiator pipe with your hand, it is important not to burn yourself, do not close the expansion tank cover;
as air leaves the cooling system, the antifreeze will "fall through" in the tank, it must be added regularly. As soon as the bubbles stop appearing when the nozzle is pressed, when the stove is turned on, hot air begins to flow into the cabin.
Owners of VAZ 2114 cars sometimes face such a problem as a stove malfunction. This breakdown is especially inconvenient in the winter: it becomes not only cold in the cabin, but also the windshield is covered with an ice crust, blocking the view. If your VAZ 2114 stove does not work either, you must first find the cause of the malfunction.
Problems with the interior heater can arise for various reasons, from electrical wiring to deterioration of the coolant pump.
Next, we will take a closer look at the main reasons for a non-working or poorly working stove, where you will find a solution to repair your heater. As a rule, all heating system malfunctions can be divided into two categories:
Cold or slightly warm air is blowing from the air ducts.
The heater does not turn on or does not work in all modes.
First, consider the reasons why the stove sometimes works worse or does not heat at all.
When the thermostat is not working, the coolant is constantly chasing around a large circle of the system, as a result of which it does not warm up, and the stove does not heat up or blows with slightly warm air. To solve the problem, it is necessary to check the functionality of the thermostat and replace it if necessary.
There may also be an airlock. It can form if, after stopping the engine during the coolant cooling, air enters the upper part of the cooling radiator and moves to the thermostat. Starting the VAZ 2114 engine the next time, the water pump will drive air into the stove radiator (cold air is blowing from the air ducts). To remove the air lock, it is necessary to throw off the pipe going to the heater and add antifreeze to it to the top. The liquid level in the system must not be below the “maximum” mark or one centimeter above it. If there is a lack of liquid, the stove does not blow with the hottest air.
If the stove is blowing cold at idle, the problem may be with the pump. The pump does not provide the necessary coolant circulation in the system. Lack of coolant can also be associated with the same problems. When replacing the pump, pay attention to Belmag duralumin products. Previously popular HEPU pumps have become often counterfeited, so it is better not to buy them.
Sometimes the radiators of the stove are heavily clogged, and the only solution in this case is to dismantle the spare part, followed by cleaning and blowing, or replacing. After that, the stove usually heats up like new. When replacing a heater radiator, some buy products of Ukrainian origin. Such radiators are distinguished by very low heat transfer towards the passenger compartment, which is due to their design features. Experienced VAZ owners recommend buying only DAAZ radiators, since the heater heats better with them.
To remove the VAZ 2114 heater radiator, you need to disassemble the front panel. If you do not have an assistant who can hold the torpedo in weight, then it is better to remove the entire console. Before starting work, drain all the antifreeze through the radiator or drain hole in the engine block. Do not forget to place some clean container underneath.
To disassemble the front panel, you need to start with dismantling the center console, side panels and the glove compartment. Remove any mounting bolts and screws that catch your eye. After removing the console and glove compartment, you will reach the bolts that secure the panel to the body. Unscrew them, and then proceed to unscrew all the bolts that hold the panel to the metal. Don't forget about the heater control cables. After making sure that the dashboard moves freely, it can be raised or removed to the side.
After completing all the above operations, remove the pipes and pull out the stove radiator. Put something on the floor, as after removing the pipes, about half a liter of antifreeze should flow out. Drying out the mats and trim from the coolant is not a pleasant experience.
After replacing the radiator, all the removed parts must be reinstalled by screwing in all the unscrewed bolts and self-tapping screws.
Often, the VAZ 2114 heater does not work due to a malfunction of the faucet. Thus, if your stove is blowing cold, you need to try to pull up a special cable, which can be reached from the side of the pedal assembly. You need to grab it with pliers and pull it back a little, increasing the tension. If the stove tap does not open even in this case, it may have soured and needs to be replaced. Do not pull too hard, otherwise you may rip it off and coolant will leak into the passenger compartment.
A faulty tap causes the stove to stop blowing hot air. Also, the faucet has to be changed if it starts to leak. This leads to the appearance of greasy deposits on the internal surfaces of the glass, the formation of wet spots on the floor, as well as the appearance of a characteristic smell of antifreeze or antifreeze in the cabin.In case of severe leaks, the carpet under the feet of the front passenger first gets wet, so experienced owners of VAZ cars recommend periodically inspecting this place.
If you decide to replace the stove faucet, you need to proceed in the following sequence:
Unscrew the drain plugs on the engine block and drain all the coolant;
Clean the studs on the faucet with an iron brush and moisten them with WD-40. This will make it easier to loosen and prevent you from breaking anything. If the pin breaks, the repair will be much more difficult;
The second category of malfunctions of the VAZ 2114 interior heater includes problems with the fan. To check its performance, it is necessary to check the first, second and third speeds. If you do not hear any noise, the stove motor is faulty. Why might the stove motor not work?
One of the simplest and most unpleasant malfunctions is a blown fuse. It is simple for the reason that everyone can replace the fuse, and it is unpleasant because it can be very difficult to determine why it has blown. As a rule, fuses are blown due to a short circuit in the electrical wiring. On VAZ 2114 cars, the 30-amp F7 fuse is responsible for the stove, on which the cigarette lighter, glove compartment illumination, headlight washer electric motor and rear stack heating also depend. Accordingly, all this will not work together with the stove.
To test the stove switch, you need a simple 12-volt light bulb with two wires. It is necessary to remove the central part of the instrument panel and do the following:
1. Turn on the ignition; 2. We close the minus contact of the light bulb with a wire to ground; 3. The positive contact is connected alternately to outputs 1-2-3 on an additional resistor.
If the light comes on at the same time, the switch is good. Otherwise, it may be a blown fuse or an open circuit. If only the third speed does not work, you need to replace the additional resistor.
The stove motor may burn out over time, but before starting to replace it, check all fuses, ignition relays, and the stove temperature switch for integrity. If all this is in order, the point is in the motor. It must be replaced by first disassembling and removing the dashboard. We described in detail how to do this above. You also need to remove the antifreeze or antifreeze from the system and turn off the heater tap.
After removing all the pipes, remove the old oven and replace it with a new one. Having checked the heater's performance, you can fill the cooling system with the previously drained liquid.
Diagnostic connector VAZ 2114: purpose, location and preparation for diagnostics
Generator VAZ 2114: device, malfunctions and repair
How to check the ignition module VAZ 2114 injector: causes of failure and how to fix them
I often have a problem with a car stove. The stove heats very poorly and gives light warm air. Thinking at me Faults in the cooling system as they said. How about fixing cars? It can be seen that you are a master of your craft.
I have a problem the stove heats up, but the air is simply lost in the air ducts, hot air comes from the motor, but when it comes out it does not blow at all. Although the whole torpedo is hot and only the glass blowing works. I put everything together correctly, what could be the problem.
I have a problem with the stove in the car, I tried all the above methods, but nothing helps, it didn’t work and it doesn’t work. Either my hands are not from there, or ... I do not know what else could be. In general, tell me, can it be easier to put a new stove?
The heating system of any car is designed to create and maintain a comfortable microclimate in the passenger compartment. The VAZ 2114/15 stove is considered quite reliable. Nevertheless, its maintenance and repair is periodically required. You can do all this yourself.
The heating system of the VAZ 2114/15 is designed to heat the air entering the passenger compartment.Its structure in cars with injection and carburetor engines is the same. The coolant (coolant) heated by the engine flows from the cooling system to the stove radiator, which is blown by a fan. The flow of warm air created in this way enters the passenger compartment through the air duct system. The intensity and direction of air flows are regulated by deflectors and dampers. The interior heating system of the VAZ 2114/15 can operate in several modes.
The VAZ 2114/15 stove is arranged quite simply: 1 - heater assembly; 2 - protective casing; 3 - sealant; 4 - front air duct; 5 - rear air duct; 6 - rear air duct; 7 - right nozzle; 8 - right side air duct; 9 - right side nozzle; 10 - intermediate body; 11 - central nozzle; 12 - draft of the windshield heating flap; 13 - heater control levers; 14 - handle for controlling the windshield heating flap; 15 - heater control handle; 16 - symbol plate; 17 - handle for controlling the foot heating flap; 18 - right air duct; 19 - air duct for heating the passenger compartment; 20 - draft of the heater control flap; 21 - control rod for the heater valve; 22 - heater tap; 23 - draft of the foot heating flap
The VAZ 2114/15 stove consists of the following elements:
Fan.
Windshield deflector flap.
Distribution flap that directs the air flow to the center and side vents, to the lower and upper part of the passenger compartment.
Control damper.
Stove radiator.
Air duct that directs the air flow to the legs.
Internal duct.
The stove consists of a fan, dampers, a radiator and air ducts. Blue and red colors indicate, respectively, the flows of cold and hot air
Often, a blown fuse becomes the cause of a malfunction of most components and systems of a car. The stove is no exception. Failure of the heating system fuse with a rating of 30A leads to a stop of the fan motor, and air stops flowing into the passenger compartment. In this case, an element marked F7 is found in the fuse box and replaced. The rating of the new fuse should also be 30A. If the fan does not work after this, the problem should be looked for elsewhere.
The fuse for the fuse F7 is located in the mounting block under the hood on the driver's side
It is often difficult to determine if the fuse has blown. It can fail if there is a short circuit in the electrical wiring, a malfunction of the electric motor, a strong clogging of the cabin filter, and in a number of other situations. The difficulty lies in the fact that fuse F7 is simultaneously included in the rear window heating electrical circuit, is responsible for the cigarette lighter, glove compartment lighting and headlight washer motor. If it fails, all these nodes will not work.
The reason for an inoperative stove can be a relay, which wears out during operation. It cannot be repaired and immediately changes to a new one. The relay is located under the dash in the fuse box.
The heater relay is located under the dashboard in the fuse box
The mode switch or stove regulator is installed on the center console, which will have to be dismantled when it is repaired or replaced. If the switch fails, the fan motor stops working.
The stove regulator is located on the center console on the left side
Heating system malfunctions are accompanied by the following symptoms:
the fan does not work;
cold air enters the passenger compartment;
the damper does not work;
there is a coolant leak;
the stove begins to emit uncharacteristic sounds (whistles, hums, murmurs);
steam or smoke emerges from the air ducts of the heater.
If the stove is out of order, it either does not work at all, or it works, but does not heat up the air. In the first case, first check the fan wiring, starting with fuse F7. If the fuse is blown, replace it.Then they check the relay, which may not turn on the first time or only on a warm motor. In this case, the relay is changed to a new one.
Then the serviceability of the electric motor is assessed. To do this, power is directly supplied to its contacts from the battery. If the electric motor starts working at maximum speed, then it is in good working order. Otherwise, it will need to be repaired or replaced.
The air flow rate is regulated using a resistor with two spirals with resistances of 0.82 Ohm and 0.23 Ohm. In the first mode, the current flows through both spirals, in the second - only through a spiral with a resistance of 0.23 Ohm, in the third - bypassing the spirals, that is, without resistance at all. If the resistor is defective, the fan will operate only in the third mode at maximum speed (handle in the extreme right position). The problem is solved by replacing the resistor, which is located on the driver's side above the accelerator pedal.
With a faulty resistor, the stove fan can only operate at maximum speed.
If cold air enters the passenger compartment, this may be due to:
The distribution of air flows through the passenger compartment is carried out by flaps, which, in turn, are controlled using cables. If these cables fail, problems arise with the direction of the air flow to the windshield or to the leg area. In addition, the damper begins to work incorrectly, blocking the air flow from the street. In this case, adjustment of the damper drives is required.
Such situations can arise even on a new machine. Slightly warm air begins to flow from the lower, upper and side vents, and hot air from the center console. This is due to the poor build quality. There are gaps between the joints of the air ducts and the flaps, which leads to the flow of warm air only from the center console and the heating of the panel from the inside.
The drive cable is always taut. Therefore, over time, it bends, breaks off or stretches. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the damper drive, which is performed in the following order:
In the stove, a bracket is sought, with the help of which the cable sheath is held on the heater body.
The lever is retracted from the galvanized metal, located on the left side. This position corresponds to the maximum opening of the damper.
The cable length is pulled and adjusted. The long lever on the lever block in the extreme right position should fully open the damper.
After adjustment, the cable is securely fixed.
A coolant leak in the heating system can result from:
stove radiator;
stove tap;
stove pipes.
If coolant leaks from the radiator, it is usually replaced with a new one. Repairs to restore tightness are usually difficult and time consuming. In addition, if the radiator has been in use for a long time, its tubes become clogged with deposits and dirt, and, as a result, heat transfer decreases.
The valve opens and closes the coolant supply to the radiator, thereby regulating the heat in the passenger compartment. Over time, it may begin to leak, which will be evidenced by the characteristic smell of antifreeze in the cabin, a puddle on the floor from the side of the passenger seat and a decrease in the coolant level in the expansion tank. The crane cannot be repaired and in such cases it is completely changed.
If the radiator of the stove begins to leak, it is usually replaced with a new one.
The reason for coolant leakage from the pipes is usually their wear - rubber ages and cracks over time. When diagnosing a problem, you need to wipe the alleged leaks with a rag and observe the outlet and inlet pipes on a warm engine. Worn hoses are always replaced with new ones.
Uncharacteristic sounds (whistling, hum, gurgling, etc.) from the heater side are usually caused by a faulty electric motor. Lack of lubrication, pollution, wear of bearings and bushings - all this leads to the fact that the motor starts to whistle. It is removed, disassembled and cleaned, and the rubbing elements are lubricated.With severe wear of the bearings, the motor will emit not a whistle, but a hum. In such a situation, lubrication may not help, and the electric motor will need to be replaced.
Sometimes steam starts to come out of the stove. The reason for this is a heater radiator leak. Leaking coolant gets on the hot radiator housing and begins to evaporate quickly, and the smell of antifreeze appears in the cabin. To fix the problem, you will need to disassemble the stove and replace the heat exchanger.
Sometimes white steam comes out from under the hood and enters the passenger compartment. This happens when antifreeze gets on a hot manifold or pants of the exhaust system. In this case, you will need to find the place of the leak and fix it. The most common cause is damaged pipes.
The stove on the VAZ 2114/15 is located in an extremely inconvenient place. To dismantle and disassemble it, you will need:
Phillips and slotted screwdrivers with short and long handles or screwdriver;
set of wrenches;
container and rubber hose for draining the coolant;
rags, a piece of oilcloth.
Dismantling the stove radiator is carried out in the following order:
Installation of a new heater radiator is carried out in the reverse order. When installing rubber hoses, it is recommended to seal them with a sealant. When connecting electrical connectors, use the markings made during disassembly.
After assembly, coolant is poured into the system. To prevent an air lock from forming, the hose is removed from the throttle assembly, having previously loosened the clamp. Pour antifreeze into the expansion tank slowly, observing the disconnected hose. As soon as coolant flows out of it, the hose should be put back on the fitting and tighten the clamp. If everything is done correctly, the operation of the stove will not cause any complaints.
When installing a new radiator for the stove, it is recommended to pre-treat the pipes with a sealant
In the event of a malfunction of the electric motor, it should first of all be removed, and then the expediency of repairs should be determined. It is necessary to assess the condition of the brushes, armature, windings, check the integrity of the insulation of the wires. The place where the brushes are attached to the anchor can be cleaned with zero emery paper. You should also pay attention to bushings and bearings - clean the rubbing parts from dirt and apply grease (for example, "Litol"). All elements with signs of wear must be replaced.
To assess the feasibility of repairing the electric motor, it must be removed
Usually, when mechanical damage is found, the stove radiator is changed to a new one. However, some car owners are trying to fix cracks and holes with soldering. A copper heatsink is quite easy to solder, and it is much easier to restore it than an aluminum one. To repair an aluminum heat exchanger, you will need a special flux and solder for tinning, as well as a powerful soldering iron. The damaged area is first cleaned of dirt and degreased. Then flux and solder are applied to it with a soldering iron. After brazing, it is advisable to test the radiator under pressure to ensure that there is no leakage.
You can increase the efficiency of the stove by cleaning and flushing the radiator. The procedure can be performed without dismantling the radiator and with dismantling. In the first case, you will need to remove the outlet and inlet pipes from the heater and pour the flushing solution into it. As such a solution, citric acid, cleaning agents for plumbing (for example, "Mole"), etc. are used. Then the radiator is rinsed with running water and filled with coolant. You can better clean the radiator by removing it from the car. This will allow you to rinse it not only from the inside, but also from the outside, removing the dirt between the combs. Rinsing is usually carried out under running water.
If, after completing these procedures, the stove does not work better, the radiator must be replaced.
Thus, it is quite simple to diagnose a malfunction and determine the cause of poor heating of the VAZ 2114/15 interior with your own hands. Self-repair and replacement of individual elements of the heating system are also not very difficult. It is enough only to accurately follow the recommendations of specialists.
A good stove heater is installed in the passenger compartment of front-wheel drive VAZ cars - in winter, Zhiguli is warm enough. But sometimes various problems arise - the stove blows with cold air (VAZ 2110, VAZ 2114, other Samara models).
In summer, car owners practically do not use the stove and remember about it only when the first cold weather sets in. If on VAZ 2114 (2115) cars the stove blows with cold air, there may be several reasons for this phenomenon:
the heater motor does not work:
stove radiator clogged with dirt;
air has entered the cooling system;
the head gasket is burnt out;
the stove faucet has soured and does not open;
a cable flew off the faucet, or it broke;
faulty thermostat;
insufficient level of antifreeze in the radiator;
low performance of the water pump.
On 2114 cars, it often happens that hot air blows only from the central deflectors, and cold air comes out of the dashboard on the sides. The reason for such a malfunction is a break in the cables or their jumping off the flaps that direct the air flow to the center or to the side deflectors.
Often, drivers also complain that the stove is blowing cold air at idle speed and low engine speeds; while the car is moving, the interior warms up. The reasons can also be different, but in order to solve the problem, you need to start troubleshooting sequentially, checking the status of all nodes.
The reasons for the lack of hot air in the passenger compartment of auto models VAZ 2110-2111-2112 are generally the same as on 2113-2114-2115, but on the "tens" and "dvenashki" there is also an additional automatic control system for the stove (SAUO), which may also crash periodically. The temperature sensor in the passenger compartment 2110 is located on the ceiling, and the damper is on the heater control unit, it is controlled by a micromotor gearbox. If the stove blows with cold air on VAZ 2110 cars, both the sensor itself and the heater control system may be faulty.
The search for a malfunction in the heating system of front-wheel drive VAZs should start with the stove motor:
turn on the ignition, start the engine;
on the heater control unit, we check the operation of the motor in all positions. If you can hear how the oven motor changes speed when switching the turntable, most likely it is in good working order.
The stove motor may not work for several reasons:
the fuse responsible for the operation of the electric motor has blown;
the contact in the mounting block is oxidized;
the switch itself is faulty;
there are breaks in the wiring;
the oven motor burned out.
If the motor only runs at maximum speed (third position), the resistor is most likely faulty.
When the stove motor burns out, it needs to be replaced. We carry out the work to replace the part as follows (for example 2114):
remove the decorative trim on the driver's side in the cabin;
Now it remains to install a new part, and fix all the removed parts in place.
The stove may blow out with cold air due to a malfunction in the cooling system. If the stove motor is serviceable, we look for the reason for supplying cold air to the passenger compartment instead of hot air in the following order:
open the hood, check the coolant level in the expansion tank, top up the antifreeze to the desired level if necessary;
we warm up the engine, pay attention to the readings of the temperature sensor on the instrument panel. If the temperature does not rise to the desired value, the valve in the thermostat may be faulty - it opens ahead of time;
also the cooling system can "air", often the reason for this phenomenon is a punctured head gasket. Cylinder head burnout may be accompanied by the following symptoms:
Antifreeze spills out of the expansion tank.
The gauge in the instrument panel shows a high temperature.
The engine is troit.
Antifreeze gets into the oil, the engine oil brightens.
If it breaks through the cylinder head gasket, often cold air blows into the passenger compartment only at low revs, when gas is poured, the cooling system "breaks through", and hot air begins to flow into the passenger compartment. Very often, replacing PHBC will solve the problem.
Problems with the stove faucet on VAZ 2108-15 cars are quite common - if the faucet is partially or completely closed, it does not allow hot antifreeze to flow into the stove radiator. The problem with the heater tap is that it sour over time, and the damper in it stops moving. To prevent the valve in the faucet from souring, it is necessary to turn it at least once a week, moving it to the open and closed position.
You can make sure that the faucet passes warm air by comparing the temperature of the pipes in the engine compartment and the passenger compartment - with the tap fully open, the pipes should be equally hot. Changing the heater faucet is quite troublesome, so you should buy good quality original parts for replacement.
Over time, the heating radiator of the VAZ 2108-15 may clog; on the VAZ it is in the cabin, under the dashboard on the passenger side. It should be noted that the radiators are not clogged with dirt so often, they mostly leak. A stove radiator leak is determined by the appearance of antifreeze on the carpet under the front passenger mat. To replace the heater radiator, you need to tinker a lot, disassemble almost half of the entire interior.
On cars of the VAZ 2110 and VAZ 2114 models, an air lock often forms in the cooling system, mainly it occurs:
due to loose connections in the nozzles (for example, the clamps are loosely tightened);
after replacing the coolant;
if PHBC is broken.
The plug can be removed in several ways (provided that the head gasket is not punctured), consider one of the options. To expel air from the cooling system, we proceed as follows:
we put the car on a hillock so that the engine is higher in level;
we turn off the cover of the expansion tank;
pour the antifreeze into the tank to the maximum;
we start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature, increase the speed to somewhere around 3000;
gently squeeze the lower radiator pipe with your hand, it is important not to burn yourself, do not close the expansion tank cover;
as air leaves the cooling system, the antifreeze will "fall through" in the tank, it must be added regularly. As soon as the bubbles stop appearing when the nozzle is pressed, when the stove is turned on, hot air begins to flow into the cabin.
How many drivers, so many reasons for the stove malfunction. Forums are full of requests for help: one reason, then another, then a third. As a result, there is no consensus on how to eliminate similar faults.
This article is devoted to only a few, the most important problems of repairing your beloved iron horse with your own hands. Don't judge harshly if you haven't found a solution here that would help you.
Do not forget that you are just a car enthusiast, and not a professional master from a large service center for servicing equally cool cars. You should not consider yourself a woodpecker or complain that your hands are growing from the wrong place, you just need to start small.
This video shows how to repair a vaz stove, and you yourself decide whether this method of adjustment is suitable for you:
Some car owners solved the problem right away. Suitable for the case when warm air blows directly in the center or on the legs, and only a stream of cold or slightly warm air goes to the sides or onto the windshield.
For winter, such a malfunction is simply a disaster: you will suffer so much that it will not seem enough. After watching this video and adjusting the stove, you can, at least for a while, make sure that hot air gets on the windshield. The interior will also become warmer. But do not overdo it: there is an impartial trick: with "headless effort" you can break off the plastic to which the cable is attached.
You can move the damper to the "hot" position: just fix it tightly, covering it with a sealed compound.In this case, send the ill-fated drive cable to the place where your spare parts are stored. You will feel the positive effect right away, although the positive temperature of the cabin is now regulated exclusively by the “stove” tap.
The heat will increase so much that you can forget about hats with earflaps and sheepskin coats: you, as a driver, will feel comfortable driving even in forty-degree frost. The cold air is now tightly sealed and has nowhere to penetrate. But the air on the right will still be somewhat colder. Depends on the deformation of the damper during the operation of the car: on the opposite side of the cable, the cover will no longer close tightly.
For those for whom this method is not suitable, you can completely remove the stove and adjust it. This is done in stages.
Before you remove the heater (1), do not forget to disconnect the ground wire, otherwise the battery will play a trick on you. At the same time, drain the coolant from the system.
Now remove the dashboard as well as the floor tunnel lining. Now carefully disconnect the air duct (item no. 19) for heating the passenger compartment.
Start a new round of work:
Carry out the same manipulations with the electrical wires from the resistor (no. 18), the electric motor (no. 2) of the fan, the supply (no. 12) and outlet (no. 13) hoses of the tap.
Unscrew the 2 valve fastening nuts in succession directly on the bulkhead.
Remove the seal from the valve pipes.
It's time to unscrew the 4 nuts securing the stove to the body.
You can easily remove the heater of your vase with control assembly.
Once you complete the adjustment process, carry out the installation in the exact order in reverse.
In this section, you will learn how to replace the stove radiator yourself. Start by draining the coolant that is in the system. After completing this work, you can remove the dashboard. And now we go through the points:
In your salon, directly under the dashboard, disconnect a pair of hoses that go to the heater tap connections.
To perform these manipulations without problems, loosen the clamps.
Do the same steps in the space under the hood: we disconnect the hoses from the faucet nozzles themselves, unscrew the nuts that secure the radiator, remove the faucet from the shield.
Remove the crane link holder.
Disconnect the rod from the lever.
Go to the salon, remove the cover from the gear shift knob.
Remove the plastic lining: it is located under the brake (manual).
Unscrew and remove the floor trim (rear): it is located between the seats. Slide it back for convenience.
Disconnect the air vent (cabin) from the stove body and remove it.
Disconnect the connector from the motor and resistor.
Unscrew 2 pairs of nuts to the right and left of the heater.
Remove the radiator with the control panel.
Replace.
Start the assembly process in reverse order.
In addition to what has been said, you can watch a video with the repair of the radiator frame, also more about the stove radiator and its replacement here and here
and one more little plot:
Oh, those stoves! Let's try to figure it out.
Situation: The car owner's interior is poorly heated by the stove, although warm air is supplied, and the engine temperature is kept within 90 degrees. Outwardly, the radiator of the heating system is also hot and the pipes are in good condition.
Answer: Unscrew the side of the passenger torpedo (brains) on your own, inspect in the area of the engine shield there are 2 hoses that go to the stove. Feel how hot they are. If there is no heat there, then they are hammered. Clean it up and everything will be as it should! Now check the engine on the sensor or onboard.
There was a case: The owner got into his car, started his girlfriend, turned on the stove fan and heard ... silence. He was not an experienced driver, but he immediately realized to get into the same fuse box. I was not taken aback and changed one of them. But time passed, and the motor did not work.
Video (click to play).
Pressing issues: Is the electric motor covered, has the contact come off?
If the driver is just a beginner, then go straight to the car service.
For an experienced owner, the following steps: climb under the panel and inspect the contacts on both the fan and the switch.
Pull out the connector, check the voltage to the engine with a probe. If it is, then uproot the motor.
It is possible that the “minus” has fallen off from the electric motor itself. In his place! It's already warm in your car in five minutes.