In detail: Do-it-yourself repair of the VAZ 2114 stove blows only cold air from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
A good stove heater is installed in the interior of VAZ front-wheel drive cars - it is quite warm in the Zhiguli in winter. But sometimes various problems arise - the stove blows cold air (VAZ 2110, VAZ 2114, other Samara models).
In summer, car owners practically do not use the stove and remember it only when the first cold weather sets in. If the stove blows cold air on VAZ 2114 (2115) cars, there may be several reasons for this phenomenon:
heater motor does not work
the stove radiator is clogged with dirt;
air has entered the cooling system;
burnt head gasket;
soured and the stove tap does not open;
a cable flew off the faucet, or it broke;
the thermostat is faulty;
insufficient level of antifreeze in the radiator;
low water pump performance.
On cars 2114, it often happens that hot air blows only from the central deflectors, and cold air comes out of the instrument panel on the sides. The cause of such a malfunction is a break in the cables or their jumping off the flaps that direct the air flow to the center or to the side deflectors.
Often, drivers also complain that the stove blows cold air at idle and low engine speeds, while the interior warms up while the car is moving. The reasons may also be different, but in order to solve the problem, you need to start troubleshooting sequentially, checking the status of all nodes.
The reasons for the lack of hot air in the interior of cars of VAZ 2110-2111-2112 models are generally the same as on 2113-2114-2115, but on the "dozens" and "dvenashki" there is also an additional automatic control system for the stove (SAUO), which It can also crash intermittently. The temperature sensor in the 2110 cabin is located on the ceiling, and the damper is on the heater control unit, it is controlled by a micromotor reducer. If the stove blows cold air on VAZ 2110 cars, both the sensor itself and the heater control system may be faulty.
Video (click to play).
Troubleshooting in the heating system of front-wheel drive VAZs should begin with the stove motor:
turn on the ignition, start the engine;
on the heater control unit, we check the operation of the motor in all positions. If you hear how the turntable of the furnace motor changes speed when switching, most likely it is working.
The stove motor may not work for several reasons:
the fuse responsible for the operation of the electric motor has blown;
the contact in the mounting block is oxidized;
the switch itself is faulty;
there are breaks in the wiring;
the furnace motor burned out.
If the motor only runs at maximum speed (third position), the resistor is most likely defective.
When the stove motor burns out, it needs to be replaced. We perform the work on replacing the part as follows (using the example of 2114):
remove the decorative trim on the driver's side in the cabin;
Now it remains to install a new spare part, and fix all the removed parts in their places.
The stove may blow cold air due to a malfunction in the cooling system. If the stove motor is working, we are looking for the reason for supplying cold air to the passenger compartment instead of hot air in the following order:
open the hood, check the coolant level in the expansion tank, if necessary, add antifreeze to the desired level;
warm up the engine, pay attention to the readings of the temperature sensor on the instrument panel.If the temperature does not rise to the desired value, the valve in the thermostat may be faulty - it opens ahead of time;
also, the cooling system can “air up”, often the cause of this phenomenon is a broken head gasket. Cylinder head burnout may be accompanied by the following symptoms:
Antifreeze splashes out of the expansion tank.
The gauge on the instrument panel shows a high temperature.
Engine troit.
Antifreeze gets into the oil, engine oil brightens.
If it breaks through the cylinder head gasket, often cold air blows into the cabin only at low speeds, when gas is added, the cooling system “breaks through”, and hot air begins to flow into the cabin. Very often, replacing the PHBC solves the problem.
Problems with the stove faucet on VAZ 2108-15 cars are quite common - if the faucet is partially or completely closed, it does not allow hot antifreeze to enter the stove radiator. The problem with the heater tap is that it turns sour over time, and the damper in it stops moving. So that the valve in the faucet does not turn sour, it is necessary to turn it at least once a week, moving it to the open and closed position.
You can make sure that the faucet passes warm air by comparing the temperature of the pipes in the engine compartment and the passenger compartment - with the faucet fully open, the pipes should be equally hot. Changing the heater faucet is quite troublesome, therefore, for replacement, you should buy original parts of good quality.
Over time, the heating radiator VAZ 2108-15 may become clogged, on the VAZ it is located in the cabin, under the instrument panel on the passenger side. It should be noted that radiators are not clogged with dirt so often, they mostly leak. A stove radiator leak is determined by the appearance of antifreeze on the carpet under the front passenger mat. To replace the heater radiator, you need to pretty tinker, disassemble almost half of the entire cabin.
On cars of the VAZ 2110 and VAZ 2114 models, an air lock often forms in the cooling system, mainly it occurs:
due to loose connections in the nozzles (for example, the clamps are loosely tightened);
after replacing the coolant;
if PGBTs is broken.
The plug can be removed in several ways (provided that the head gasket is not broken), consider one of the options. To expel air from the cooling system, proceed as follows:
we put the car on a hillock so that the engine is higher in level;
unscrew the cover of the expansion tank;
pour antifreeze into the tank to the maximum;
we start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature, increase the speed somewhere up to 3000;
gently squeeze the lower radiator pipe with your hand, it is important not to burn yourself, do not close the cover of the expansion tank;
as air leaves the cooling system, the antifreeze will “fall through” in the tank, it must be added regularly. As soon as the bubbles stop appearing when you press the pipe, when the stove is turned on, hot air will begin to flow into the cabin.
Owners of VAZ 2114 cars sometimes face such a problem as a stove malfunction. This breakdown causes especially great inconvenience in winter: it becomes not only cold in the cabin, but the windshield is covered with an ice crust that closes the view. If the VAZ 2114 stove also does not work for you, you must first find the cause of the malfunction.
Problems with the interior heater can occur for various reasons, from electrical wiring to wear on the cooling system pump.
Next, we will take a detailed look at the main causes of a non-working or poorly functioning stove, where you will find a solution to repair your heater. As a rule, all malfunctions of the heating system can be divided into two categories:
Cold or slightly warm air is blowing from the ducts.
The heater does not turn on or does not work in all modes.
First, consider the reasons why the stove sometimes works worse or does not heat at all.
When the thermostat is not working, the coolant constantly races through a large circle of the system, as a result of which it does not warm up, and the stove does not heat up or blows slightly warm air. To solve the problem, it is necessary to check the operation of the thermostat and replace it if necessary.
It could also be an airlock issue. It can form if, after the engine is stopped, during the cooling of the coolant, air enters the upper part of the cooling radiator and moves to the thermostat. Starting the VAZ 2114 engine the next time, the water pump will drive air into the stove radiator (cold air blows from the air ducts). To remove the air lock, it is necessary to throw off the pipe going to the heater and add antifreeze to it to the top. The fluid level in the system must be at least a centimeter above the “maximum” mark. If there is not enough liquid, the stove blows not the hottest air.
If the stove blows cold at idle, the problem may be in the pump. The pump does not provide the necessary coolant circulation in the system. The same problems may be accompanied by a lack of coolant. When replacing the pump, pay attention to Belmag duralumin products. The previously popular HEPU pumps are often counterfeited, so it's better not to buy them.
Sometimes stove radiators become very clogged, and the only solution in this case is to dismantle the part, followed by cleaning and purging, or replacement. After that, the stove usually heats up like new. When replacing a heater radiator, some people buy Ukrainian-made products. Such radiators are characterized by very low heat transfer towards the passenger compartment, which is associated with their design features. Experienced VAZ owners recommend buying only DAAZ brand radiators, since the heater heats better with them.
To remove the VAZ 2114 heater radiator, you need to disassemble the front panel. If you do not have an assistant who can hold the dashboard on weight, then it is better to remove the entire console. Before starting work, drain all antifreeze through the radiator or drain hole in the engine block. Don't forget to put a clean container underneath.
To disassemble the front panel, you need to start by dismantling the center console, side panels and glove compartment. Unscrew all the mounting bolts and screws that will catch your eye. After removing the console and glove compartment, you will get to the bolts with which the panel is bolted to the body. Unscrew them, and then proceed to unscrew all the bolts that hold the panel to the metal. Don't forget the heater control cables. After making sure that the dashboard moves freely, it can be lifted or removed to the side.
Having done all the above operations, remove the pipes and pull out the stove radiator. Put something on the floor, because after removing the pipes, about half a liter of antifreeze should flow out. Drying mats and trim from coolant is not the most pleasant experience.
After replacing the radiator, all removed parts must be reinstalled by screwing in all the unscrewed bolts and screws.
Often, the VAZ 2114 heater does not work due to a malfunction of the faucet. Thus, if your stove blows cold, you need to try to tighten a special cable that can be reached from the side of the pedal assembly. You need to grab it with pliers and pull it back a little, increasing the tightness. If the stove tap does not open even in this case, it may have turned sour and needs to be replaced. Don't pull too hard or you may rip it off and coolant will leak into the cabin.
A faulty faucet causes the stove to stop blowing hot air. Also, the faucet has to be changed if it starts to leak. This leads to the appearance of greasy deposits on the inner surfaces of the glasses, the formation of wet spots on the floor, as well as the appearance of a characteristic smell of antifreeze or antifreeze in the cabin.With strong leaks, the carpet under the feet of the front passenger first gets wet, so experienced owners of VAZ cars recommend periodically inspecting this place.
If you decide to replace the stove faucet, you need to proceed in the following sequence:
Unscrew the drain plugs on the engine block and drain all the coolant;
Clean the studs on the faucet with an iron brush and moisten them with WD-40. This will make it easier to unscrew and keep you from breaking anything. If the pin breaks, the repair will be much more complicated;
The second category of malfunctions of the VAZ 2114 interior heater includes problems with the fan. To check its performance, it is necessary to check the first, second and third speeds. If you do not hear any noises, the stove motor is faulty. Why might the oven motor not work?
One of the simplest and most frustrating faults is a blown fuse. It is simple for the reason that anyone can replace the fuse, and it is unpleasant because it can be very difficult to determine why it has blown. As a rule, fuses blow due to a short circuit in the electrical wiring. On VAZ 2114 cars, a 30-amp F7 fuse is responsible for the stove, which also affects the cigarette lighter, glove box lighting, headlight washer electric motor and rear stack heating. Accordingly, all this will not work together with the stove.
To test the stove switch, you need a simple 12-volt light bulb with two wires. It is necessary to remove the central part of the instrument panel and do the following:
1. Turn on the ignition; 2. We close the negative contact of the light bulb with a wire to ground; 3. We connect the positive contact alternately to the outputs 1-2-3 on the additional resistor.
If the light comes on, the switch is OK. Otherwise, it could be a blown fuse or an open circuit. If only the third speed does not work, you need to replace the additional resistor.
The stove motor may burn out over time, but before proceeding with its replacement, check all fuses, the ignition relay, and the stove temperature switch for integrity. If all this is in order, the problem is in the motor. It must be replaced, having previously disassembled and removed the dashboard. How to do this, we described in detail above. You also need to remove the antifreeze or antifreeze from the system and turn off the heater valve.
After removing all the pipes, pull out the old furnace and install a new one in its place. After checking the performance of the heater, you can fill the cooling system with the previously drained liquid.
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I often have a problem with the car oven. The stove heats very poorly and gives light warm air. I think I have Faults in the cooling system, as they said. What about fixing cars? It is clear that you are a master of your craft.
I have a problem: the stove heats up, but the air is simply lost in the air ducts, hot air comes out of the motor, but it doesn’t blow at all when it comes out. Although the whole torpedo is hot and only the glass blower works. Everything was assembled correctly, what could be the problem.
I have a problem with the stove in the car, I tried all the above methods, but nothing helps, it didn’t work, and it doesn’t work. Either my hands are not from there, or ... I don’t know what else it could be. In general, tell me, can it be easier to put a new stove?
The heating system of any car is designed to create and maintain a comfortable microclimate in the cabin. The VAZ 2114/15 stove is considered quite reliable. However, it needs to be serviced and repaired from time to time. All this can be done independently.
The VAZ 2114/15 heating system is designed to heat the air entering the passenger compartment.Its device in cars with injection and carburetor engines is the same. The coolant heated by the engine flows from the cooling system to the stove radiator, which is blown by a fan. The flow of warm air created in this way enters the passenger compartment through the air duct system. The intensity and direction of air flow is regulated by means of deflectors and dampers. The VAZ 2114/15 interior heating system can operate in several modes.
The stove VAZ 2114/15 is arranged quite simply: 1 - heater assembly; 2 - protective casing; 3 - sealant; 4 - front air duct; 5 - rear air duct; 6 - rear air duct; 7 - right nozzle; 8 - air duct side right; 9 - right side nozzle; 10 - intermediate body; 11 - central nozzle; 12 — draft damper windshield heating; 13 — heater control levers; 14 - control knob for the windshield heating damper; 15 - heater control handle; 16 - symbol plate; 17 — handle for controlling the damper for heating the legs; 18 - right air duct; 19 - interior heating air duct; 20 - thrust damper control heater; 21 - control rod heater valve; 22 - heater valve; 23 - leg warmer damper rod
The VAZ 2114/15 stove consists of the following elements:
Fan.
Windshield damper.
Distribution damper that directs air flows to the central and side deflectors, to the lower and upper parts of the cabin.
Control shutter.
Furnace radiator.
An air duct that directs the flow of air to the legs.
Internal air duct.
The stove consists of a fan, dampers, a radiator and air ducts. The blue and red colors indicate, respectively, the flows of cold and hot air.
Often, a blown fuse becomes the cause of a malfunction of most components and systems of a car. The oven is no exception. The failure of the heating system fuse with a nominal value of 30A leads to the stop of the fan motor, and the air stops flowing into the passenger compartment. In this case, an element marked F7 is found in the fuse box and changed. The value of the new fuse should also be 30A. If the fan does not work after that, the problem should be looked for elsewhere.
The F7 heater fuse is located in the mounting block under the hood on the driver's side.
It is often difficult to determine that it is the fuse that has blown. It can fail if there is a short circuit in the wiring, a malfunction of the electric motor, a severe clogging of the cabin filter, and in a number of other situations. The difficulty lies in the fact that the F7 fuse simultaneously enters the electric circuit for heating the rear window, is responsible for the cigarette lighter, the backlight of the glove box and the headlight washer motor. If it fails, all these nodes will not work.
The cause of a non-working stove may be a relay, which wears out during operation. It cannot be repaired and is immediately replaced with a new one. The relay is located under the instrument panel in the fuse box.
The heater relay is located under the instrument panel in the fuse box.
The mode switch or stove regulator is installed on the center console, which will have to be dismantled when it is repaired or replaced. When the switch fails, the fan motor stops working.
The heater control is located on the center console on the left side.
Malfunctions of the heating system are accompanied by the following symptoms:
the fan does not work;
cold air enters the cabin;
damper does not work;
there is a coolant leak;
the stove begins to make uncharacteristic sounds (whistling, buzzing, murmuring);
Steam or smoke is coming out of the heater ducts.
If the stove is out of order, it either does not work at all, or it works, but does not heat the air. In the first case, the fan wiring is first checked, starting with the F7 fuse.If the fuse is blown, change it. Then they check the relay, which may not turn on the first time or only on a warm engine. In this case, the relay is changed to a new one.
Then the health of the electric motor is evaluated. To do this, its contacts are directly supplied with power from the battery. If the electric motor starts to work at maximum speed, then it is working. Otherwise, it will need to be repaired or replaced.
The intensity of the air flow is adjusted using a resistor having two spirals with resistances of 0.82 Ohm and 0.23 Ohm. In the first mode, the current flows through both spirals, in the second - only through a spiral with a resistance of 0.23 Ohm, in the third - bypassing the spirals, that is, without resistance at all. If the resistor is defective, the fan will only operate in the third mode at maximum speed (handle in the extreme right position). The problem is solved by replacing the resistor, which is located on the driver's side above the accelerator pedal.
If the resistor is faulty, the stove fan will only work at maximum speed.
If cold air enters the cabin, this may be due to:
The distribution of air flows throughout the cabin is carried out by dampers, which, in turn, are controlled by cables. If these cables fail, there are problems with directing the air flow to the windshield or to the leg area. In addition, the damper begins to work incorrectly, blocking the flow of air from the street. In this case, adjustment of the damper actuators is required.
Such situations can arise even on a new machine. Slightly warm air begins to flow from the lower, upper and side vents, and hot air from the center console. This is due to the poor build quality. Slots remain between the joints of the air ducts and dampers, which leads to the flow of warm air only from the center console and heating the panel from the inside.
The drive cable is always tight. Therefore, over time, it bends, breaks off or stretches. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the damper drive, which is performed in the following order:
A bracket is looked for in the stove, with the help of which the cable sheath is held on the heater body.
The lever made of galvanized metal, located on the left side, is retracted. This position corresponds to the maximum damper opening.
The length of the cable is pulled up and adjusted. The long lever on the lever block in the extreme right position should fully open the damper.
After adjustment, the cable is securely fixed.
Coolant leakage in the heating system can occur from:
stove radiator;
stove tap;
oven pipes.
If the coolant leak comes from the radiator, it is usually replaced with a new one. Repairs to restore tightness are usually complex and labor intensive. In addition, if the radiator has been in operation for a long time, its tubes become clogged with deposits and dirt, and, as a result, heat transfer is reduced.
The valve opens and closes the coolant supply to the radiator, thereby regulating the heat in the cabin. Over time, it may begin to leak, as evidenced by the characteristic smell of antifreeze in the cabin, a puddle on the floor from the passenger seat, and a decrease in the coolant level in the expansion tank. The crane cannot be repaired and in such cases it is completely replaced.
If the stove radiator starts to leak, it is usually replaced with a new one.
The cause of coolant leakage from the nozzles is usually their wear - the rubber ages and cracks over time. When diagnosing a problem, you need to wipe the alleged leaks with a rag and watch the outlet and inlet pipes on a warm engine. Worn hoses are always replaced with new ones.
The cause of uncharacteristic sounds (whistling, hum, murmur, etc.) from the heater is usually a faulty electric motor. Lack of lubrication, contamination, wear of bearings and bushings - all this leads to the fact that the motor starts to whistle.It is removed, disassembled and cleaned, and the rubbing elements are lubricated. With severe wear on the bearings, the motor will not whistle, but rumble. In such a situation, lubrication may not help, and the electric motor will need to be replaced.
Sometimes steam comes out of the stove. The reason for this is a leak in the heater core. The escaping coolant enters the hot radiator housing and begins to evaporate quickly, and the smell of antifreeze appears in the cabin. To fix the problem, you will need to disassemble the stove and replace the heat exchanger.
Sometimes white steam comes out from under the hood and enters the cabin. This happens when antifreeze gets on a hot collector or exhaust system pants. In this case, you will need to find the leak and fix it. The most common cause is damaged pipes.
The stove on the VAZ 2114/15 is located in an extremely inconvenient place. For its dismantling and disassembly, you will need:
Phillips and slotted screwdrivers with short and long handles or a screwdriver;
set of wrenches;
container and rubber hose for draining the coolant;
rag, a piece of oilcloth.
The dismantling of the stove radiator is carried out in the following order:
Installing a new heater core is done in the reverse order. When installing rubber hoses, it is recommended to treat them with a sealant. When connecting electrical connectors, the markings made during disassembly should be used.
After assembly, coolant is poured into the system. To prevent an air lock from forming, the hose is removed from the throttle assembly, after loosening the clamp. Antifreeze in the expansion tank should be poured slowly, watching the disconnected hose. As soon as coolant flows out of it, the hose should be put back on the fitting and tighten the clamp. If everything is done correctly, the operation of the stove will not cause any complaints.
When installing a new stove radiator, it is recommended to pre-treat the pipes with a sealant
In the event of a malfunction of the electric motor, it should first of all be removed, and then the feasibility of repair should be determined. It is necessary to assess the condition of the brushes, armatures, windings, check the integrity of the wire insulation. The place where the brushes fit on the anchor can be cleaned with zero sandpaper. You should also pay attention to bushings and bearings - clean the rubbing parts from dirt and apply grease (for example, Litol). All elements with signs of wear must be replaced.
To assess the feasibility of repairing the electric motor, it must be removed
Usually, if mechanical damage is detected, the stove radiator is replaced with a new one. However, some car owners are trying to fix cracks and holes with soldering. The copper heatsink is fairly easy to solder and is much easier to repair than an aluminum heatsink. To repair an aluminum heat exchanger, you will need a special flux and solder for tinning, as well as a powerful soldering iron. The damaged area is first cleaned of dirt and degreased. Then flux and solder are applied to it with a soldering iron. After soldering, it is recommended to pressure test the radiator to make sure there is no leakage.
You can increase the efficiency of the stove by cleaning and flushing the radiator. The procedure can be performed without dismantling the radiator and with dismantling. In the first case, you will need to remove the outlet and inlet pipes from the heater and pour the flushing solution into it. Citric acid, plumbing cleaners (for example, Mole), etc. are used as such a solution. Then the radiator is washed with running water and coolant is poured. You can clean the radiator better by removing it from the car. This will allow you to rinse it not only from the inside, but also from the outside, removing the dirt between the cells. Washing is usually carried out with running water.
If after performing these procedures the stove does not work better, the radiator must be replaced.
Thus, it is quite simple to diagnose a malfunction and determine the cause of poor heating of the VAZ 2114/15 interior with your own hands.Self-repair and replacement of individual elements of the heating system are also not very difficult. It is enough just to follow the recommendations of experts exactly.
A good stove heater is installed in the interior of VAZ front-wheel drive cars - it is quite warm in the Zhiguli in winter. But sometimes various problems arise - the stove blows cold air (VAZ 2110, VAZ 2114, other Samara models).
In summer, car owners practically do not use the stove and remember it only when the first cold weather sets in. If the stove blows cold air on VAZ 2114 (2115) cars, there may be several reasons for this phenomenon:
heater motor does not work
the stove radiator is clogged with dirt;
air has entered the cooling system;
burnt head gasket;
soured and the stove tap does not open;
a cable flew off the faucet, or it broke;
the thermostat is faulty;
insufficient level of antifreeze in the radiator;
low water pump performance.
On cars 2114, it often happens that hot air blows only from the central deflectors, and cold air comes out of the instrument panel on the sides. The cause of such a malfunction is a break in the cables or their jumping off the flaps that direct the air flow to the center or to the side deflectors.
Often, drivers also complain that the stove blows cold air at idle and low engine speeds, while the interior warms up while the car is moving. The reasons may also be different, but in order to solve the problem, you need to start troubleshooting sequentially, checking the status of all nodes.
The reasons for the lack of hot air in the interior of cars of VAZ 2110-2111-2112 models are generally the same as on 2113-2114-2115, but on the "dozens" and "dvenashki" there is also an additional automatic control system for the stove (SAUO), which It can also crash intermittently. The temperature sensor in the cabin 2110 is located on the ceiling, and the damper is on the heater control unit, it is controlled by a micromotor reducer. If the stove blows cold air on VAZ 2110 cars, both the sensor itself and the heater control system may be faulty.
Troubleshooting in the heating system of front-wheel drive VAZs should begin with the stove motor:
turn on the ignition, start the engine;
on the heater control unit, we check the operation of the motor in all positions. If you hear how the turntable of the furnace motor changes speed when switching, most likely it is working.
The stove motor may not work for several reasons:
the fuse responsible for the operation of the electric motor has blown;
the contact in the mounting block is oxidized;
the switch itself is faulty;
there are breaks in the wiring;
the furnace motor burned out.
If the motor only runs at maximum speed (third position), the resistor is most likely faulty.
When the stove motor burns out, it needs to be replaced. We perform the work on replacing the part as follows (using the example of 2114):
remove the decorative trim on the driver's side in the cabin;
Now it remains to install a new spare part, and fix all the removed parts in their places.
The stove may blow cold air due to a malfunction in the cooling system. If the stove motor is working, we are looking for the reason for supplying cold air to the passenger compartment instead of hot air in the following order:
open the hood, check the coolant level in the expansion tank, if necessary, add antifreeze to the desired level;
warm up the engine, pay attention to the readings of the temperature sensor on the instrument panel. If the temperature does not rise to the desired value, the valve in the thermostat may be faulty - it opens ahead of time;
also, the cooling system can "air", often the cause of this phenomenon is a broken head gasket. Cylinder head burnout may be accompanied by the following symptoms:
Antifreeze splashes out of the expansion tank.
The gauge on the instrument panel shows a high temperature.
Engine troit.
Antifreeze gets into the oil, engine oil brightens.
If it breaks through the cylinder head gasket, often cold air blows into the cabin only at low speeds, when gas is added, the cooling system “breaks through”, and hot air begins to flow into the cabin. Very often, replacing the PHBC solves the problem.
Problems with the stove tap on VAZ 2108-15 cars are quite common - if the tap is partially or completely closed, it does not allow hot antifreeze to enter the stove radiator. The problem with the heater tap is that it turns sour over time, and the damper in it stops moving. So that the damper in the faucet does not turn sour, it is necessary to turn it at least once a week, moving it to the open and closed position.
You can make sure that the faucet passes warm air by comparing the temperature of the pipes in the engine compartment and the passenger compartment - with the faucet fully open, the pipes should be equally hot. Changing the heater faucet is quite troublesome, therefore, for replacement, you should buy original parts of good quality.
Over time, the heating radiator VAZ 2108-15 may become clogged, on the VAZ it is located in the cabin, under the instrument panel on the passenger side. It should be noted that radiators are not clogged with dirt so often, they mostly leak. A stove radiator leak is determined by the appearance of antifreeze on the carpet under the front passenger mat. To replace the heater radiator, you need to pretty tinker, disassemble almost half of the entire cabin.
On cars of the VAZ 2110 and VAZ 2114 models, an air lock often forms in the cooling system, mainly it occurs:
due to loose connections in the nozzles (for example, the clamps are loosely tightened);
after replacing the coolant;
if PGBTs is broken.
The plug can be removed in several ways (provided that the head gasket is not broken), consider one of the options. To expel air from the cooling system, proceed as follows:
we put the car on a hillock so that the engine is higher in level;
unscrew the cover of the expansion tank;
pour antifreeze into the tank to the maximum;
we start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature, increase the speed somewhere up to 3000;
gently squeeze the lower radiator pipe with your hand, it is important not to burn yourself, do not close the cover of the expansion tank;
as air leaves the cooling system, the antifreeze will “fall through” in the tank, it must be added regularly. As soon as the bubbles stop appearing when you press the pipe, when the stove is turned on, hot air will begin to flow into the cabin.
How many drivers, so many reasons for the malfunction of the stove. Forums are full of petitions for help: one reason, then another, then a third. As a result, there is no consensus on how to eliminate similar malfunctions.
This article is devoted to only a few, the most important problems of do-it-yourself repair of your beloved iron horse. Do not judge strictly if you did not find a solution here that would help you.
You should not forget that you are just a car enthusiast, and not a professional master from a large service center for servicing no less cool cars. You should not consider yourself a woodpecker or complain that your hands are growing from the wrong place, you just need to start small.
This video shows how to repair a vase stove, and you decide for yourself whether this adjustment method is right for you:
Some car owners solved the problem immediately. Suitable for the case when warm air blows directly in the center or on the legs, and on the sides or on the windshield there is only a stream of cold or slightly warm.
For winter, such a malfunction is simply a disaster: you are tormented so that it doesn’t seem enough. After watching this video and adjusting the stove, you can at least temporarily make sure that hot air gets on the windshield. The cabin will also become warmer. But do not overdo it: there is an unpleasant feature: with "headless diligence" you can break off the plastic to which the cable is attached.
You can move the damper to the “hot” position: just fix it tightly, covering it with a sealed mass. At the same time, send the ill-fated drive cable to where your spare parts are stored. You will feel the positive effect immediately, although the positive temperature of the cabin is now regulated exclusively by the “furnace” faucet.
The heat will increase so much that you can forget about hats with earflaps and sheepskin coats: you, as a driver, will feel comfortable driving even in forty degrees of frost. The cold air is now tightly sealed and there is nowhere for it to penetrate. But on the right, the air will still be somewhat colder. Depends on the deformation of the damper during the operation of the car: on the opposite side of the cable, the cover will no longer close tightly.
For those for whom this method is not suitable, you can completely remove the stove and adjust it. This is done in stages.
Before you remove the heater (1), do not forget to disconnect the ground wire, otherwise the battery will play a trick on you. At the same time, drain the coolant from the system.
Now remove the instrument panel, as well as the lining of the floor tunnel. Now carefully disconnect the air duct (under No. 19) for interior heating.
Start a new round of work:
Perform the same manipulations with electrical wires from the resistor (No. 18), the electric motor (No. 2) of the fan, the inlet (No. 12) and outlet (No. 13) faucet hoses.
Sequentially unscrew the 2 nuts securing the crane directly on the bulkhead.
Remove the seal from the faucet pipes.
It's time to unscrew the 4 nuts securing the stove to the body.
You can freely remove the heater of your vase with control assembly.
Once you have completed the adjustment process, carry out the installation in reverse order.
In this section, you will learn how to independently replace the stove radiator. Start by draining the coolant that is in the system. After you have completed this work, you can remove the instrument panel. Now let's go through the points:
In your cabin, directly under the instrument panel, disconnect a pair of hoses that go to the heater tap nozzles.
To perform these manipulations without problems, loosen the clamps.
Do the same actions in the space under the hood: disconnect the hoses from the tap pipes themselves, unscrew the nuts that secure the radiator, remove the tap from the shield.
Remove the crane rod holder.
Disconnect the rod from the lever.
Go to the salon, remove the cover from the gear shift knob.
Remove the plastic lining lining: it is located under the brake (manual).
Unscrew and remove the floor pad (rear): it is located between the seats. For convenience, slide it back.
Disconnect the air outlet (salon) from the stove body and remove it.
Disconnect the connector from the motor and resistor.
To the right and left of the heater, unscrew 2 pairs of nuts.
Remove a radiator with the control panel.
Make a replacement.
Start the assembly process in reverse order.
In addition to the above, you can watch a video with the repair of the radiator frame, as well as more about the stove radiator and its replacement here and here
and one more little plot:
Oh those ovens! Let's try to figure it out.
Situation: The car owner's interior is poorly heated by the stove, although warm air is supplied, and the engine temperature is kept within 90 degrees. By external signs, the radiator of the heating system is also hot and the pipes are in good condition.
Answer: Independently unscrew the side of the passenger torpedo (brains), inspect in the area of \u200b\u200bthe motor shield there are 2 hoses that go to the stove. Feel how hot they are. If there is no heat there, then clogged. Clean it up and you'll be fine! Now check the engine on the sensor or on-board.
It was the case: The owner got into his car, started his girlfriend, turned on the stove fan and heard ... silence. He was not an experienced driver, but he immediately realized to get into the same fuse box. I was not taken aback and changed one of them. But time has passed, and the motor is still not working.
Video (click to play).
pressing issues: The electric motor is covered, the contact has moved away?
If the driver is just a beginner, then straight to the car service.
For an experienced owner, the following steps: crawl under the panel and inspect the contacts on both the fan and the switch.
Open the connector, check the voltage on the engine with a probe. If it is, then uproot the motor.
It is possible that the “minus” fell off from the electric motor itself. In his place! Five minutes later, your car is already warm.