Do-it-yourself Brother sewing machine pedal repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a brother sewing machine pedal from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

A sewing machine pedal often causes a “breakdown” of the electric drive. The sewing machine suddenly starts to stop periodically and only after a few presses “all the way” on the pedal resumes its course.
It happens that the sewing machine stops altogether, and even press the pedal with two feet, it will not work. The first thought that comes to mind in such a situation is that the engine “burned out”.
In fact, it was the sewing pedal that broke, not the electric motor. This can be determined if only because the engine, before “burning out”, lets you know about it. There is a strong smell of burnt electrical wiring, and he himself heats up no less than the iron.
Before deciding that the engine has "burned out", touch it with your hand, you can even smell it,

Actually, repair sewing machine pedals in many such cases, it is not needed, since the reason can be trite. The contacts of the connecting plugs are oxidized or the wire inside the insulation of the cord breaks. It is not difficult to eliminate oxidation of contacts, you just need to clean the contacts with sandpaper. But it is very difficult to find a wire break inside the wiring, and a tester is required.
A wire breakage inside the insulation occurs for various reasons, but mainly due to carelessness in the pedal connection wiring. This happens when you constantly pull the plug from the outlet by the cord or hit the cord with angular, heavy objects, such as the legs of a chair.
You can replace all the wiring without looking for a break. But this can only be done by an electrician, and even then not always, since the connecting plugs are often not disassembled, since they are cast at the factory along with contacts and wiring.

Video (click to play).

The only way out in this case is to buy a new pedal for a sewing machine, and sometimes complete with a motor, which is of course more expensive. See How to disassemble the clipper and replace the electric drive.
You will not be able to restore the wiring yourself, and most importantly it is pointless, since a break may appear after a while in another place. Once there is one cliff, then soon another one will appear. And in general, we categorically do not recommend repairing electrical appliances with your own hands. Electricity is a "serious" business and only a specialist should do such work.

The circuit of the sewing pedal of household machines that do not use electronics is very simple and is a switch, only in the form of a rheostat, which consists of many graphite round plates. The graphite parts of the rheostat “burn out”, a coating appears on their surface, which prevents the electric current. As a result of many years of long-term operation of the sewing pedal, the pedal fails them, although you will not find outward signs of this.
The only sign of this is when the slow speed of the car “disappears”. When the pedal has to be pressed “all the way” so that the sewing machine starts to work, and then immediately at the highest speed. This is a clear sign that you need to buy a new typewriter pedal.
If your machine has a pedal of approximately the same pattern, then you can move the rheostat body. This can adjust the smooth, jerk-free operation of the electric drive of the machine.

Electronic pedals for a sewing machine cannot be repaired sometimes even by a sewing machine repairman. Rather, the telemaster needs to do this, since inside she has a microcircuit and a board made of radio components and a circuit and different testers will be required. And by the way, these pedals, which are included in the set of many models of Soviet-made sewing machines, Chaika and Podolsk, very often break down.

Such a pedal stops working suddenly, but always at the most inopportune moment.On this basis, you will easily understand that the pedal has broken down forever. But seriously, inside the pedal the main radio component (thyristor) simply fails and therefore it suddenly stops working.
These pedals are easy to distinguish from others. They have a plastic body and are much lighter than other types of pedals as there is only one small board inside. Another difference is that the wire is mounted directly into the pedal body and cannot be disconnected, as, for example, for a sewing pedal to the TUR-2 electric motor.

Another sewing pedal often used in zigzag sewing machines such as Chaika, Veritas sewing machine, Podolsk. A very good pedal and comes with a TUR-2 electric motor, also of good quality. True, its fragile body often breaks, but this is not the fault of the pedal, but the mistress of the sewing machine, who treats her carelessly.

The body of this sewing pedal is very fragile, and the top cover is held by a slight bead on the lower body. Often, this protrusion breaks when struck or pressed hard by the foot and the pedal “opens up”. Here is the moment when you see how the pedal works.
You can fix this breakdown yourself, but you will need to restore the limiter in any way convenient for you. For example, glue or screw on a small plastic or metal stopper.

In order to disassemble this sewing pedal, it is necessary to pull out the sleeve that connects both halves of the pedal. It is easy to find where this bushing is, but to find out that it is also fixed with a screw is difficult. There is a hole in the middle of the bottom cover at the level of the sleeve, which is sealed with putty. Under the putty is the screw that securely grips the sleeve. Unscrew it and the grommet can be easily removed.
What is this secrecy for? Most likely, so that not everyone can disassemble a rather unsafe electrical device. I hope you also understand that disassembling electric pedals is dangerous.

After repairing yourself, do not leave the sewing pedal plugged in for a long time unattended. From inept adjustment of the rheostat, the sewing pedal can be in the on mode constantly and overheat.
If you take your foot off the pedal, there should be no voltage at the output contacts of the plug going to the electric motor, since the electrical circuit is completely disconnected. But, you can break this chain without knowing it.
Even when you take your foot off the pedal, a weak current will still flow to the rheostat. The chain is closing, but you will not understand it, since the sewing machine will be stationary. As a result, both the pedal and the electric motor will gradually heat up and heat up, and then you yourself know what happens.
Therefore, if you cannot check this with a tester, just make it a rule that any sewing machine, even a new one, should not be left unattended in an outlet, and even more so for a long time.

Well, and the last "rarity" that "our" typewriters have since Soviet times. Especially often such a pedal can be found in lockstitch sewing machines such as Singer, Podolsk. I don’t know who came up with this design, but the fact that using this sewing pedal is more comfortable with your thumb than your foot is for sure. Otherwise, it is a fairly reliable and “eternal” sewing pedal. And the wiring does not break inside her insulation. If you want it, you won't break it, such a thick wire. And the rheostat never burns out and it is quite difficult to even split the case. So, if it comes with the electric drive of your sewing machine, and do not expect it to serve for a long time.

The device of a modern sewing machine
How a modern household electric sewing machine works. Major malfunctions of components and mechanisms.

Sewing machine Veritas Rubina
The opinion of the master about which sewing machine is the best. Details about the used Rubin sewing machine and other old models of the Veritas brand.

Benefits of the horizontal shuttle
What are the advantages of the horizontal shuttle.How such a shuttle works, its possible malfunctions and how to fix them.

Sewing machine electric drive
Just like the pedal, the electric motor does not need to be repaired by yourself. Moreover, there is nothing to repair there. The engine is either running or not running. If it does not work, and you know for sure that there is no other reason for this, then it does not need to be repaired, but replaced. And to figure out when it needs to be changed, read this article.

Hand sewing machine - drive device and repair
If you have such a machine, then it can be converted. Instead of a manual drive, put an electric drive with a pedal. Buy the cheapest kit. Just do not confuse the motor rotation as the overlock motor rotates in the opposite direction. It is desirable that the pedal for the sewing machine is not the “cheapest” and has a ceramic body.

Foot sewing machine drive
The foot drive is difficult to use literally and figuratively. In addition, it knocks hard, which usually requires replacing the bearing. The best solution for a broken foot drive is to use it as a table and attach an electric motor to the machine. And then it will be possible to control the machine using a sewing pedal.

Sewing threads, which is better?
In order not to overload the electric motor and sewing machine pedal at the same time, use elastic and not too thick threads. Also, do not sew fabrics that are not intended for household sewing machines. From this, the electric drive experiences increased loads, heats up. And the first thing is the sewing pedal fails.

Sewing machine needles
How can the needle affect the operation of the sewing machine pedal? It is not just one thing that affects, but many factors in a complex. For example, thick coarse fabrics, a blunt needle with a curved point, continuous operation of the engine without stopping, etc. All this causes the sewing machine pedal to “burn out”.

Do you have a sewing machine and love to sew? Then this site is for you. Professional craftsmen will tell you how to make minor repairs to a sewing, knitting machine. Experienced technologists will share the secrets of tailoring. Review articles will tell you which sewing or knitting machine to buy, a mannequin iron and many other useful tips you will find on our website.
Thank you for viewing the entire page.

Educational and educational blog about sewing machines at a professional level

I have exactly the same pedal, and the capacitor also burned out, can I directly connect the wires without a capacitor. I can't find a capacitor

If it were possible, without a capacitor, it probably would not have been put there. A capacitor is needed with such parameters. as in the video.

Tell me, is it possible to make the stroke of this foot smoother? Maybe through an additional rheostat?

Answer.

The course should be smooth anyway. If not, check the machine, it may wedge somewhere or the belt slips, weak. Need to tighten. Check it all out. Maybe the graphite tablets in the pedals are burnt, watch the video on the Podolsk 142 sewing machine No. 180 Part 2.

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These machines are 40-50 years old, and they still sew, which cannot be said about modern imported consumer goods. I bought it and threw it away, and my grandmother's rarity is carefully kept, in many families, as a memory and as a masterpiece of Soviet industry.

Podolsk Mechanical Plant named after M.I. Kalinina produced such sewing machines of class 2-M.

Unpretentious, reliable, easy to operate, always rescued in difficult times, and allowed many to earn bread. It is a pity to see how young people are now getting rid of old things that can serve their masters for a long time to come. Most of these machines are now resting in a landfill. And earlier the sewing machine was affectionately called the nurse, she fed and sheathed the family.

It's time to get down to business.
First of all, we cut off the fabric that women love to sew on the “waist” of the machine. Believe me, there is no benefit from it, used needles, bent, blunt, are stuck into it, and then they try to reuse the same needles. And they cannot understand why this machine does not sew. In addition, after such sticking, the coating deteriorates and such scars remain. Used needles should be thrown into the trash can, where they should be.

We disassemble the machine, remove all covers, the stitch plate, disassemble the shuttle, as shown in the photo.

Image - Do-it-yourself Brother sewing machine pedal repair

It can be seen that pile from fabric and thread has accumulated on the shuttle travel body, there are even pieces of thread and all this is mixed with thickened oil.

And here, too, is dust and thickened oil.

And this is the place where no seamstress, during the entire operation of the machine, never looks. Lint and dust and sand accumulate here, in general, everything that gets into the holes of the needle plate.

We remove all this byaka with a needle and tweezers.

The toothed rack also needs to be cleaned; it is best to do this with a large needle.

And naturally we clean the shuttle, it is good to use kerosene for these purposes, if it is not there, then you can remove the thickened oil with a knife or screwdriver.

We removed all the dirt and old oil, now we start lubricating the machine.
For these purposes, it is best to use an ordinary disposable syringe, with the thickest needle possible. I do not advise you to lubricate with an oil can, it overflows the oil, and you will stain the machine, and you yourself will get dirty. The oil can be bought at any hardware store. Household Lubricating Oil will do.

Here, the arrows indicate the technological holes for lubrication, we bury 3-4 drops in each hole, no more.

And here it is imperative to instill in both holes, one hole of the needle bar and the other of the presser foot.

In these places, the needle bar is rarely lubricated at all, the friction is frantic and the metal is generated, a backlash is formed, as a result of which the needle hits the throat plate or the shuttle.

And accordingly, the foot should also move freely up and down. Without braking, otherwise the fabric will be unevenly pressed, it will simply walk under the foot and the stitches will be of different lengths.

And one more place that we must lubricate.

Winding a bobbin, dripping three drops of oil.

Now we put the machine on its side. The arrows indicate all the places that need to be lubricated.

After full lubrication, we turn the handle for a couple of minutes so that the oil flows into all the joints and crevices of the machine mechanism. Feel the difference, it began to work completely differently, softly and quietly.

Pay particular attention to the installation of the friction device.
Here you can see how not to do it, usually amateurs install the friction washer this way, as a result, they do not turn on the working stroke. After which they begin to turn on their imagination, cut out the washers from cardboard, wind the wire, in general, who is good at what.

This is how the washer should be, the protrusions should be outward.

After that we tighten the friction screw and the stop screw.

The result of our work.

Do not store the sewing machine near heating appliances or in cold, damp places.

Cited 21 times
Liked: 7 users

as a rule, they do not write about lubricants, since the consumer has the right not to have the necessary qualifications to service the car, for this there is a service in civilized countries, but we are different)
I repeat, at least: the needle bar and the hook pivot point must be lubricated
although the service life of machines is usually indicated - 7 years, this is how much the machine can work without additional lubrication, under moderate load. Then just buy a new one.

Girls, good evening, as always, a car breakdown occurs at the most inopportune moment. I ask for help.
Pfaff 2020. Tears the upper thread on a straight tie. Feeling that it gets stuck in the plates and stretches. The thread breaks in the needle. The machine is set for a large stitch. Width 5, upper thread tension 8. (I need assembly) I put a needle 60, 75, changed the threads on top. Threads are good new Nitex. I sew thin cambric. Please tell me why the thread in the plates seems to get stuck.

Post has been edited Olesja - Jun 30 2013, 18:51

Usually, pedals are disassembled like this:
1. Holding the pedal in one hand, slip a flat screwdriver between the lower and upper "halves" of the pedal (shown by the red arrow - 1) in that place on the lower half of the pin (protrusion). Look at the place, maybe it will be more convenient to slip the screwdriver not exactly in the direction of the arrow, but next to it.
2. Move gently with a screwdriver handle in the direction shown by the green arrow, lifting the edge of the upper half of the pedal, thereby removing the edge from the ledge on the lower half.
3. After that, release the second side (arrow - 2).
4. There may be a small protrusion at the top (arrow - 3), but usually it does not interfere with separating the pedal halves. Between the rugs, there is a spring inside. Can "run away" when separating halves.
You can disassemble, see, of course, but I think that it will not give anything. Most likely the resistor is worn out.

Post has been edited pssergey - Jul 1 2013, 09:56

The capacitor is out of order. We disassemble the pedal. We change the capacitor from another pedal. For garment workers, construction.

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Hello dear masters, seamstresses!

I have a question for you. Have you ever had a brother sewing machine repaired? Does this make sense?

The fact is that my wonderful favorite car broke down. Something with the motor does not pull at all.

I rummaged through the forums on the internet, there are more questions than answers.

And, according to some reviews, that it is pointless to take it in for repairs, cars of this brand are not taken.

If I lived in a big city, of course I would allocate a day and go to services with my typewriter.

But, but, but I rarely visit big cities, but if I do go, should I take the car for repairs?

I would be grateful for any feedback and advice.

click need a mechanic. There is one mechanic in Veliky Novgorod. consult on

do breakage. In general, all cars are repaired, do not throw it away if it breaks down.

You definitely need to go to a big city, but first call and find out

Service Center Hard repairs Brother. Alexander Korsunov Ave., 28A, Veliky Novgorod, (816) 233-20-46, 233-21-18

Thank you thank you thank you! I will definitely call, find out, with an opportunity and go to Novgorod.

I just read this opinion on one forum “why won't buy Brother anymore, it's a one-time pleasure, they don't even take repairs”

And today I bought another typewriter, and again Brother. from what was, the most suitable for me.

Of course, a broken hand will not rise to throw it away, all the more so it is so comfortable, smart, drove it, I can see it.

First, according to the experience of communicating with professional mechanics, modern cars are 90% non-repairable. That is, repairs may cost more than the machine itself, or cannot be repaired at all. A familiar mechanic said that it takes longer to open such machines than to repair.

I'm afraid it's cheaper to buy a new one. Moreover, "something with a motor does not pull at all"

Look - if you go to the city = time, they will open your car for your money and say that there are no spare parts or they are available, but for the money, how to buy an airplane —– >>>> the conclusion is to buy a new one.

I understand perfectly well that my favorite car and all that, but now almost everything is done this way - repairs are not provided or it is so expensive (on purpose) that you buy a new thing. Alas, this is so.

That's for sure. The most amazing thing is that it is generally not clear how to care for modern cars. I read the entire instructions along and across - only cleaning of the bobbin case is provided. And in bold - don't use oil! And periodically take it to the service center. If he were still nearby, that center ..

Ekaterina, modern cars are not meant to be courted.

They sew on them for some time, they break as soon as the warranty period ends and fy-syo - please get a new one.

Alas, we live in an era of consumption. This means that factories must work, produce more and more new goods, and we must buy them. And who will buy a new one if the machine will serve for 50 -70 -100 years? Vooot. therefore, now almost all things are 90% non-repairable. A friend works in a clothing repair shop. So - the clothes are sewn so that you cut the figs to crawl up to change the zipper or something else. The buttons are molded directly onto the finishing line, the lining is stitched "by the mustache" - the lining has been ripped out, and it is not clear what to attach a new one to. Like this.

... Irina) admiration for your complete and accurate answers) I will emphasize everything many times) everything is so) ..)) my advice is to wait for an offerta) to the model you like) .. We often have this summer season and before Natale (Rozzhdestvo))) ..

.. I went through the stage of calling the master at one time) it is just taken for a quick, simple) so that 10 minutes and ready 40 euros with bargaining 30))))

for all other breakdowns)) they say there are sites and the Internet)) and advice to buy a new one )))

... on the spot) in the sense - in real life) they sell most often the most expensive cars)) very expensive))

Thanks again ))

For more than 20 years I have been sewing only on Brother machines and I am very pleased with them - I have changed several models. I bought new ones for myself, and gave old ones in working order to relatives and friends.

Repair is definitely possible! The only question is the availability of a GOOD machine repairman and the availability / price of a part that may need to be replaced. If there is neither one nor the other, then it’s probably easier to buy a new one. but if I were you, I would look for a good master - not by advertisements in the internet and newspapers, but only by real reviews of those who have already repaired cars for this person. This is how I repaired my darling last summer

The fact is that household cars of 20 years ago and more or less modern ones are two big differences.

Hello Ekaterina! I also had this situation. My * Janome * broke down, at first, I also did not pull the engine, then it smelled like a burning smell. I was told that the motor will cost at least 3 thousand, plus the work of the master is 1.5-2 thousand. So decide for yourself.

Nina, exactly! Add a little more and buy a new car.

Oh, if the repair costs 5-6 thousand, then it means very lucky.

She took out all the documents on the typewriter, looked at how much she bought it. 8900, and my salary was then 7900. Now the salary at my former job is 10 tons, and my car is already 25 tons. This is the arithmetic.

In general, I have not asked the price of sewing machines for a long time. Today while choosing, I was very surprised.

Write to Alexander Danilovich, maybe he can tell you something.

Excuse me, who? Maybe it will help me too.

Very good sewing machine master https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1739/Shenderov

First of all I thought about Alexander Danilovich! But, as I understand it, it is according to old mechanical typewriters. There is one in the country, but I will not sew on this anymore.

Ekaterina, what do you mean by "old mechanical machines"

These are exactly the same electric machines, that is, powered by electricity and with a pedal. As I understand it, your machine is not a computer, which means it is mechanical. Or . well, in general, not a computer.

In addition, these old machines have one indisputable plus - they really really can be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated. Unlike modern, inexpensive ones - you still need to find which side to crawl on in order to disassemble it, then puff to disassemble and then it is still not known what and where to lubricate.

It's worth thinking about the indisputable plus of such old machines. since you won't find a good mechanic with fire during the day, the technical center is far away, but you need to sew.

Old cars are not that difficult to set up, provided that the car was stored in good conditions and nothing is broken there.

And to help you organize articles, where under the first paragraph articles about cars - selection, cleaning and lubrication of old machines, etc. And the most useful thing is in the comments.

I myself completely disassembled my brother machine, cleaned it and changed some parts.

It is not clear what is meant by the phrase: “the motor does not pull”, how is it expressed, does it not turn on, the fabric does not move or something else?

I had a problem: you press the pedal all the way (the motor even screeched at the same time), and the machine barely scribbles, the fabric crawls very slowly, even though you were doing it, you even had to pull it up with your hands, it would seem. but everything is much simpler - replacing the toothed rack and the machine sews like a new one (before that I sewed a product from a very thick fabric for which this machine is not intended, as a result, all the teeth were erased to almost zero). I also changed the rail myself.

There was a case - Brother repaired. He was just a very good master. But it wasn't the motor. And by the way - about "no oil" - and so this master practically filled the whole car with oil (it got jammed and did not want to move in any direction). To my frightened exclamations “but how do they write in the instructions what is not allowed?”, He replied that you never know what they write in the instructions, and the masters always oil everything. So, 5 years have passed since then - the machine works great, though not in such a frantic mode as before, because I bought a new one - Elna. Six months ago, something squealed in this Elne. Those. she sewed, but screeched at the same time. I found a master who came to the house, so after cleaning, he also oiled everything and said that you need to do preventive cleaning and lubrication every year with such a load. Despite the fact that I drip a little oil into the shuttle mechanism and the shuttle itself (its plastic part) I also slightly oil along the rim - regularly, once a week for sure. (And in the instructions, meanwhile, there is also nothing about self-lubrication). And the master said that if I hadn't done this with the shuttle, it would have crumbled long ago.

And also on the topic of cleaning - a compressed air cylinder helps me a lot - the one for computers and keyboards - it blows fluff from threads out of all the cracks just fine, you can't clean it with any vacuum cleaner brushes.

something rare))) I “feed” my jaguar every two to three months. and chihua-hua on their "no" in the instructions)))

Irina, I meant a complete disassembly with total cleaning and total lubrication. And so yes)) I, for example, once a week, and not in 2-3 months, I clean and smear everything - I just can't crawl everywhere, without a total disassembly

Girls, I have a Japanese sewing machine motor, brand new, never used. (packaged) Ready to sell. Who needs it, contact in a personal.

Oksana, I agree, Good and expensive household appliances should be repaired and they can be repaired.

Girls, please help me find a good master for Brothers, tk. the machine is in working order, but has not been used for a long time now, skips stitches, confuses threads. It didn't work out on my own. Need a professional setting. You can in a personal. Thank you.

Anna, if the machine skips stitches and confuses threads, this is all solved correct selection of thread thickness + number of needles that match the thread and fabric + correct threading of the upper and lower threads and a little time, to pick it all up with a scientific poke.

Try to do all this slowly and in a good mood, and I assure you that in 90% of cases the machine will sew perfectly!

By the way, about "the machine does not sew"

Once a girl came to me for a consultation with her typewriter. He speaks not sewing, something is interfering there. It turned out that a long, long time ago, some kind of tricky foot was put in and this foot did not give a normal stitch on normal fabric, but the foot was tricky. Everyone has long forgotten that the paw is not the right one, therefore - the machine does not sew !!

The foot was removed, the line was adjusted, and the happy girl went home with an adjusted machine.

Therefore, the first rule of a sewing person is to re-thread the upper and lower thread very carefully!

Good afternoon, dear craftswomen! Help me find a good master in Moscow JANOME sewing machine Thank you in advance for your responses !!

I gave the brozer for repairs with this particular problem, replacing the mator cost me 400 rubles. It was 6 years ago.

Of course, it makes sense to repair the above Brother model. The motor is not necessarily burned out there, because usually preceded by the smell of burning and smoke. If these signs were not there, then perhaps only the maintenance of the machine will be required, and this is not so expensive.

I carry out maintenance and repair of sewing machines. If required, please contact. I will be glad to help.

A faulty sewing machine pedal can cause a lot of trouble when using this equipment. Even if the machine does not stop completely and reacts to pressing the pedal, it may not pick up the rpm, or, conversely, without smooth acceleration, it breaks to maximum rpm, or it may respond only after several pedal presses ... Anyway, if the pedal breaks it becomes impossible to sew to sewing machines.

The first difficulty lies in the fact that all of the listed difficulties may not necessarily be a consequence of the fact that it is the pedal for the sewing machine that is broken. It can be a motor, wire, contacts. Only after making sure of their working condition, the conclusion is obvious: it is the faulty pedal of the sewing machine that is to blame.

The complexity of the repair depends on the type and device of the pedal itself. They come in two varieties, depending on the model of the machine: a pedal with a rheostat and with an electronic filling. You can determine which one is in your sewing machine by its weight. A pedal with a rheostat is usually much heavier than an electronic one. This is due to its internal design.

To avoid problems with the pedal of the sewing machine, it is advisable to avoid harsh and strong presses and do not leave it plugged in if you are not using the sewing machine.

If the electronic pedal breaks down, it is unlikely to repair it yourself.All that a user who is far from electronics can do is to inspect its external integrity, whether there is any damage to the radioelements rations, whether the wiring is torn off. A more detailed repair can be carried out by an electronics specialist with the necessary knowledge and instruments (oscilloscope, tester). Moreover, in case of such a breakdown, one should not go to a sewing machine workshop, but to an electronic equipment adjuster.

Complex repairs of sewing machines related to the adjustment of units and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced master. But such repairs are rarely performed, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine begins to "play up" if the rules of its operation, specified in the instructions, are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not followed.

The main reason leading to a sewing machine malfunction is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this sewing machine model. Sewing a double hem on jeans, replacing a zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, subsequent complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

This article provides basic recommendations on how to set up and perform a simple DIY repair of a sewing machine.

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important part of the machine. During its “life” it makes thousands of punctures in the tissue and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the needle point becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle hits the metal part of the machine body, the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, do we pay attention to this? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How would such a point pierce the tissue? There is only one way - to break it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing through the eye of the needle will catch on the curved point and “slow down”, creating excess upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason the loops appear in the stitching. Moreover, the curved tip will cause periodic thread breakage, especially in difficult to sew areas, when the upper thread is extremely stretched.

It turns out that sometimes the whole repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly has no blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
You do not need to throw out the used needles, as there are situations when the needles break one after the other, for example, when sewing a leather bag. Then remember about a jar of old needles.

Another reason for adjusting the sewing machine, especially the old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect insertion of the needle into the needle bar. The needle blade (fig. B) should be on the side of the hook nose. Remove the stitch plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly begins to twist and break the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. A household needle has a special cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you break the gap between the hook point and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine hook. Some commercial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and may touch the surface of the hook, scratch it or even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Externally, the needle cannot be determined whether it is a curve or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1).Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

To make the sewing machine “more confident” to work with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and make it easier for the thread to pass through the fabric, almost eliminating skipped stitches and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

The thread looping in the stitching, as well as the characteristic knock during their operation, is perhaps the main difference between sewing machines with a zigzag, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, the looping in the stitching occurs due to uneven tension of the thread along its path: broken compensation spring, rusty sole of the foot, incorrectly set shuttle, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters yourself without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor quality stitch, pay attention first of all to the condition of the needle, to the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case, and whether the upper thread tensioner is working properly. Very often, children like to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the sewing machine Chaika quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle move.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a sewing machine Chaika can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass; it should not have any chipping or rusty spots. If there are jags, they must be removed with a small file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the file marks and loops will appear below. Only this must be done carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the shuttle nose.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bobbin thread is wound around it) can cause repairs to the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced "master" often disassembles and assembles all the units, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are jagged and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread fleece, the bobbin thread will come out in jerks and the upper thread in the stitching will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly regulated. You are tightening it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread fluff has accumulated, which prevents the washers from fully squeezing. The fastening of the tensioner (Chaika) may have loosened.

But still, most often, sewing machines such as the Seagull have a malfunction in the parameters of the shuttle and the needle. This is a complex type of repairing a sewing machine, more precisely setting, but for general information it is advisable to know the main reason due to which all the "troubles" of sewing machines occur.

The most common cause of a sewing machine malfunction is the upper thread. Thread breakage, looping in a stitch, uneven stitching, skips, etc. This often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic body is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to stagger, or even completely "falls out" of the body.

In this photo, arrows indicate the attachment of the needle bar and tensioner. When sewing rough fabrics, intersecting seams on leather goods, and especially when hemming jeans, the needle bar may move upward with the needle.
Loosen the screw slightly and adjust its position, making sure that the blade and needle groove are in the correct position in relation to the hook (not turning left or right).
For details on how to disassemble and assemble the sewing machine tensioner, see the article "The device of the sewing machine tensioner Chaika".

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing zigzag stitching by Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others implies setting the position of the looper point above the needle eye by 1.2 (3) mm at the moment the looper point approaches the needle. This parameter is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle drop (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The point of the shuttle must at the same time pass almost closely to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10-point wrench, and holding the handwheel by hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle stroke) by adjusting the position of the hook point in relation to the needle.

However, these are not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction of the hook nose and needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment when the needle starts to rise. The needle descends to the lowest point, and when raised by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines performing a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as right and left needle prick. With the left and right prick of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should “confidently” remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should run slightly above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, about 1 mm.

However, such adjustments are often not required to be performed, it is enough just to check with a magnifying glass how the shuttle interacts with the needle and make sure that repairs, adjusting the sewing machine are not needed, and look for another reason. For example, change the threads, thread them correctly, change the needle, clean the shuttle from dust and fleece, etc.
To make it easier for you to repair the sewing machine, disassemble the shuttle move and study its device. Observe how the stitch is formed when the stitch plate is removed. At the same time, check all the shuttle settings described above. See also How the sewing hook works.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work normally with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, you need a more accurate adjustment of these parameters, which can only be set by the master.

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be necessary as long as the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overload during work, not let it into the “wrong” hands, which means that the sewing machine will break less often.

After prolonged operation, clean the bobbin compartment and other accessible places from dust, fleece, oil stains. The shuttle itself, the shuttle mechanism, should be periodically cleaned with a stiff hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubricating it a little “idle” on it, especially if the machine is not used for a long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and better penetrates into units and places of friction.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a cool, dry place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, protect it from dust, otherwise the oil from the dust will harden, and the machine will turn tightly, or even jam. This case is considered in the article Podolsk Manual Sewing Machine.

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