Lens malfunction - this must be the most common failure of digital cameras. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include“E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problem”) (Kodak), “Lens> error, restart camera” or just “lens error” (almost all camera manufacturers use this option lately). Some cameras may not display anything at all, but only beep, the lens moves in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even extend.
The problem is actually quite common with all digital camera models. Usually it is sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. The camera may have been turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, it was accidentally turned on in the bag). It happens that after extending the lens, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the extended lens. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens malfunctions is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials like to cling to the camera body due to frictional electrostatic charge (especially when the case is soft and fluffy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism and malfunction messages occur. I own a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.
For the owner of the camera with this problem, there may be no point in contacting the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not cover this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to shock or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which are covered by the warranty). The cost of repairs is usually close to or more than what the camera actually costs. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a faulty lens for a new one, the cost of which is high as a spare part.
Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this trouble can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembling the camera, although some can cause other damage if overdone and careless. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty workshop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty, or to determine how much they will charge for paid repairs. Who knows, you might get lucky.But if they list an amount that is higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.
The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in the order shown. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should be considered only for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repair in which is lower than in the warranty.
Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.
Method 1a: If new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and # 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to low battery power when the lens is extended.
Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try locating and selecting “reset” to reset the camera to its original position. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option and thus the parameter may not be displayed.
Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely discharged while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert it into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as it causes a reset in some models. Error E30 (for old Canon) means that you have no card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.
Method 3: Insert its audio / video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD remains off while the process begins. Thus, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in bridging dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If the AV cable does not correct the lens error on its own, I consider keeping that cable installed on the line when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means of providing extra power to aid in those attempts. But please note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.
Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is being extended. Hopefully, while the lens is extending and the AF lens is moving, the guide pins will sit in place.
Method 5: Use a rubber blower to blow out the gaps between the lens cups with compressed air. The idea is to blow out sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other options for blowing out are using a hair dryer in cold mode or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some people use a vacuum cleaner for this.
We are now entering the area of potentially dangerous camera rescue methods.There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:
Method 5a: If you actually notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow does not help knock them out, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Take special care not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I do not recommend going too deep around the lens barrel with paper (do not go deeper than 1 cm). I especially do not recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust pad that sits just inside this gap.
Method 6: Hit the rubber USB cover repeatedly with the intention of knocking out any particles that might be obstructing the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report the success of this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities of damage or displacement of internal components using this method, such as loose cables from connectors, or cracked LCD screens.
Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this if there is no obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens facing down, try to “gently” tap the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that might interfere with the movement of the lens frames. Try turning the camera on and off at the same time while you are doing this.
Method 7a: Note that this correction method is intended only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops, passing part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens barrel at its most extended position, preventing the lens from returning. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again to prevent it from coming back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to see if the problem has gone away.
Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just keep in mind that this is absolutely the last method before discarding your camera, and there is obvious potential for further damage to the camera with this method. You may want to consider this technique if the lens is visibly and clearly damaged, bent, or distorted, such as from dropping. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a dislocated shoulder. Try forcing the lens to straighten and snap back into place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will be in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a “click” confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop further efforts at this point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other method.
Variations on Method 7b: Gently pull, rotate, and / or twist the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or align the barrels if they are bent or kinked. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest clearance (note that pushing the lens barrel all the way in is not recommended as it may get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to the "click", which means the pins of the glasses hit the guide grooves.If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.
Although Pentax cameras came to the market relatively recently, they managed to win the love of many users. Needless to say, compactness, decent picture quality, and all this at a very democratic price. However, sooner or later, the question will arise, where can the Pentax camera be repaired? Yes, you can do this with your own hands, but in such cases there is a very high chance that you can only break some other elements. To prevent this from happening, you should contact us for help in repairing the Pentax camera!
Lens damage is the most common problem faced by users. It can arise, as well as due to mechanical damage, because what kind of equipment in general likes to fall from a height, and because of internal reasons, such as small debris, dust. To prevent this from happening, you should contact our service center for preventive cleaning of the device;
Shutter breakage is perhaps the most frequently used detail in the device, without which no picture will come out. Even in spite of the fact that initially this device has a very good supply of the shutter resource, sooner or later it ends. But our craftsmen are always ready to come to your aid, replacing damaged elements;
Battery failure – this is a rather unpleasant situation, since without an autonomous power supply, you can forget about the possibility of photographing something or someone outside the area of the outlet. However, even in such a situation, our specialists will be able to help you;
The flash does not work - unfortunately, the reason for this phenomenon can be both the burnout of the lamp itself and mechanical damage to the camera. In order to accurately establish the cause of the malfunction and quickly eliminate it, you should contact our masters!
In addition to the obvious advantages, special equipment and qualified personnel, we have one more advantage. This is that in all types of work we use only those elements that are supplied to us by the plant itself, which helps to guarantee not only extremely high quality, but also allows us to reduce their price to the minimum. What helps to save the budget when repairing Pentax cameras!
Cameras and cameras of the Pentax brand are known for their reliability, as befits Japanese technology. Pentax cameras are suitable for a wide variety of types of photography. They can take pictures of city landscapes and make portraits, take on trips and engage exclusively in studio, portrait photography. In general, we can say that Pentax cameras are designed for all occasions. Of course, manufacturers have tried to give them all kinds of protection, including shockproof and waterproof, but, unfortunately, anything happens in life, and Pentax cameras can also break. The reasons can be both purely mechanical and technical. It is not always possible to independently determine the breakdown, but it is definitely not worth doing the repair of Pentax cameras with your own hands. For this there is a "Service -like" company.
You call our service center and describe the breakdown of your camera
At your request, you either come to our office yourself and bring the camera, or our courier comes to you for it
Our masters carry out a thorough diagnosis of the camera using modern equipment
Our specialists will contact you and tell you the price and period of the repair
After the repair, you come to our office for the camera, or we will send our courier to you again.
As you can see, you can save not only your money, but also your time by contacting the "Service -like" company. We are confident in the quality of our work, and we give a guarantee for our services. Contact our Pentax camera repair center, and your equipment will serve you for a long time and with high quality.
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hi lore, did it happen that my beautiful camera just stopped turning on? I see that the batteries are discharged, well, I charged them, put them on, but the fotik simply does not turn on and that's it. I tried everything, lithium, NiMh, ordinary alkaline, all to no use. At the forum of photographers, they did not really advise me anything, they only said that this camera has problems with power supply and there it is possible, I quote attention:
> the time has come. the microcircuits are dry. anything. and microcircuits can not? 🙂 only capacitors? 🙂
just like a normal motherboard in a personal computer dies just from time to time. the part has worked out its time and is out of order.
It turns out that nowadays iron dies for no reason, from time to time.
In short, repair is necessary. I am requestering suitable workshops in Moscow in which the cameraman will not be killed completely, not gutted for details, but simply repaired. su && cast dk-, the photographer seems to know what.
Linux is here despite the fact that the internal firmware of the fotik is most likely on Linux.
Pentax ME-Super repair tips
Part II
First, the bottom picture. This is the shutter, or rather the piece of it that interacts with the mirror. Position (a) - shutter cocked, position (b) - worked. The shutter is activated by pressing the (With) ... The arrow indicates the part that brings the mirror out of the upper position. I will name it (detail) (ab) .see fig. m0. Pressing the shutter button (shutter cocked) through the self-timer shoulder (5) goes up, releasing (5a) aperture lever (6, A) and lever (WITH) ; last roller (4a) lifts up the mirror and brass lever (2) which just clicks on (With) shutter. (A) and (V) - two powerful springs, the main driving force of the mechanism; (A) raises the diaphragm drive and mirror, (V) - returns the mechanisms to their original position.see fig. m1. Now the mirror is up, the diaphragm is open, the shutter is open. When the shutter is closed by an element conventionally designated (ab) presses the lever (3) that releases the lock (1a) spring (V) returns the lever (WITH) to its original position, Fig. m2.
Video (click to play).
Part III
The mirror is raised, the camera does not react to our exploits. Watch lever (2) , it is easy enough to deform and it triggers the shutter. Straighten and put in place.
When the shutter is cocked, there is a feeling that something is slipping somewhere. Watch the spring (8) ... She is responsible for the correct operation of the castle (1a) , in turn fixing the cocking spring in the cocked position. Put in place.
When the shutter is cocked, the mirror goes up. Commit doesn't work (5a) , the reason is the spring on the axis of this lever.
When the shutter is cocked, the mirror moves up and down / or / shutter response delay / or / some other abnormal behavior in the mirror mechanisms. Rotted rubber dampers (7) and (7a) and messed up the mechanisms. They are noise dampers and vibration dampers when (.) The mirror is returned to its original state. They can simply be removed, the camera will not work worse because of this. But it is also necessary to remove the traces of their vital activity - you can gently clean it with a cotton swab with gasoline (do not leave a lint in the mechanism), or you can disassemble everything, rinse it in the same gasoline, and reassemble it. And no grease. Yes, after this procedure, the mirror mechanism will work correctly in any frost.
PS: This material can be useful when repairing many Pentax film cameras, since the principles of their mechanisms are similar. Suitable for ME-F, ME and all M line; Super Program / Super-A and similar devices; P3 / P30 / P30n and similar devices.For series with electronic shutter release, the triggering method has changed, but the principle of operation for the mirror lift / return mechanism is the same.
PS: there is still a third elastic band, I accidentally found it. to remove it, unscrew the flat screw between 3 and 1a.
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