DIY pentax repair

In detail: do-it-yourself pentax repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Continuing the topic of photo instructions, I am publishing a collection of manuals and photosets that I have gathered with various options for disassembling Pentax digital cameras. The list will grow over time.
Instructions for disassembling lenses in a separate post.

Servicemanuals.
I note that the most detailed and useful are descriptions for cameras Samsung GX-10, GX-20 (Almost complete copies of Pentax K10, K20)

Image - DIY pentax repair

istD.pdf (5.22MB)
Number of downloads :: 443
Image - DIY pentax repair istdl.pdf (3.56MB)
Number of downloads :: 295
Image - DIY pentax repair istDL2.pdf (560.09K)
Number of downloads :: 244
Image - DIY pentax repair istDS.pdf (5.01MB)
Number of downloads :: 372
Image - DIY pentax repair k100d.pdf (3.1MB)
Number of downloads :: 473
Image - DIY pentax repair k110d_techreport.pdf (142.85K)
Number of downloads :: 308
Image - DIY pentax repair k100dSUPER.pdf (546.76K)
Number of downloads :: 360
Image - DIY pentax repair k10D.pdf (4.63MB)
Number of downloads :: 702
password - 8639
Taken from here.

Image - DIY pentax repair

K20D_parts_listing.pdf (567.96K)
Number of downloads :: 158
Image - DIY pentax repair K-7_parts_listing.pdf (4.75MB)
Number of downloads :: 225

Image - DIY pentax repair

K200D.zip (3.64MB)
Number of downloads :: 444
Image - DIY pentax repair gx-10.zip (28.27MB)
Number of downloads :: 419
Image - DIY pentax repair gx-20.zip (31.06MB)
Number of downloads :: 411

The Pentax trade mark positions itself as a company for the production of optical equipment, therefore the range of its devices is not limited only to cameras, and the quality and reliability of equipment is not inferior to other world leaders. The difference between the digital devices of this company from all others is manifested in a variety of innovative know-how, which makes Pentax equipment somewhat peculiar and not so popular among the general public. Despite this, the owners of cameras of this brand have to deal with from time to time emerging breakdowns associated with the need to replace some worn out parts or restore them. A special technique requires a special approach, which is why the ReMobi service center offers our customers a professional repair of any model of Pentax cameras.

Image - DIY pentax repair

Image - DIY pentax repair

Our operator will quickly call you back and answer your questions ›

Due to its peculiarities, the repair of Pentax cameras involves, first of all, a complete diagnosis, after which the owner can get a free consultation with an estimate of the cost of services and a further "action plan". Most often, the problems of cameras of this brand are of a mechanical nature: the lens flaps do not open or close, the same lens has stopped moving in or out, or it is generally jammed in an intermediate position. There is also such a breakdown as a malfunction of the display (disappearance of colors, spots, stripes, complete absence of an image). All these problems are the result of non-observance of the operating rules and possible mechanical damage (the device was dropped or hit) or internal pollution (moisture, dust). The efficiency and cost of such repair directly depends on the degree of damage, but, as a rule, the masters of the ReMobi service center repair cameras and eliminate most of the breakdowns within a few days. For preventive and remedial measures, our specialists provide customers with a coupon that guarantees 100% quality of the work done. With ReMobi, your gadget will last for years to come!

Video (click to play).

Time zone: UTC + 3 hours [Daylight Saving Time]

I dropped my soap dish directly onto the lens. An autopsy showed that one of the plastic teeth broke off from a large wheel, through which the motor actually extends the lens.

Is it possible to disassemble the lens and glue a new tooth?
Can I insert a lens from another soap dish?

Everything is possible. You can try to glue the tooth, or you can form it from epoxy resin, and then file it with a specially sharpened file. But, it will all work, unless the plastic is "greasy". If the plastic is greasy, then you need to look for a new gear.

About the lens from another camera. Well, perhaps, from the exact same camera. Repairers do just that. Other faulty cameras of the same type are used as a source of spare parts.These cameras can be purchased on ebay.com at bargain prices.

Here, just, will it be worth the candle? Which camera was damaged?

Whatever service you order, whatever the complexity of the task, you can count on the best performance. excellent quality
satisfied customers.

Service center "OnService" makes quick repairs of Pentax cameras in St. Petersburg. Our service center has been cooperating with suppliers of spare parts for Pentax cameras for a long time, which allows us to carry out repairs in the shortest possible time. Frequent breakdowns in cameras of this brand are - breakdown of the optics opening mechanism, the problem of focusing the image, moisture ingress into the case, as well as malfunctions due to inaccurate handling.

Typical repairs of Pentax cameras:

  • Pentax camera lens replacement / repair
  • Replacement / repair of the camera body
  • Replacing the LCD screen (LCD) of the camera
  • Pentax flash repair
  • Replacing the CCD of the camera
  • Replacement / repair of focal lens
  • Replacement / repair of the Pentax mirror block
  • Replacement / repair of connecting loops (connectors)
  • Pentax camera alignment

Repair procedure

By calling our service center, you can find out the preliminary cost and terms of repairing your camera. If you are satisfied with the price and term, you can use the services of our courier service, or bring the camera for repair yourself. After a visual inspection, our manager will inform you of the final cost. You will receive a preserved receipt on your device, according to which, after the completion of the repair and payment for the service, you will receive your refurbished Pentax camera.

* Repairs are carried out within 1 day. A longer period depends on the complexity of the repair and the availability of spare parts, which can be discussed with the master.

To join an existing community, you need to go to this community and click the "Join Community" button.
Joining the community occurs automatically without the approval of the candidacy of the joining by other members of the community.

On Western forums, the Pentaxes offer to “treat” it: take it by the lens and beat it on the palm of the other hand) there was even a term, but I don’t remember

it's not about cleanliness - you need to carefully look at all the phases of the platoon and understand what wedges - there may be a spring burst or bent, etc.

And if the ME is Super? Is it the same procedure or is it because of the electronics that “kill against the wall” at once? It's just that I adore my ME, due to some kind of strange sillyness, but he starts to shit in my film, like a mean cat) It will stick, then it will not stick. I checked the foam rubber, the batteries are new.
I can’t with this little bastard miraculously, there is no way to part

No, this is certainly not a task for me. Thanks for the advice, but I would rather break it.

Thanks again. But now they are at such a price that it’s probably easier to buy a serviceable one. Although no one knows how good it will be on the other hand.

Yes I understand. Well, I can't throw it out)
Probably I will just forgive him for two or four empty frames, but I will keep it.
Rarely is a camera such a tactile pleasure, and the optics are great too.
(Never mind, I'm trying to persuade myself))
I would also buy a cover for the ESII battery compartment 😉

Dug up an old topic

I have been using Pentax Spotmatic SP for about two years, shot dozens of films, I really like it. He let me down for the first time in December 2014, when it was about 15 frost outside - the mirror began to stick and the curtains stopped in the middle. I then thought that this is normal for a fairly old DSLR with a curtain shutter. And then it happened again, but already in March 2016, when it was about zero outside. I shot for about 5 hours and on the third film the camera first began to darken one corner, and then generally stick to it halfway.

I decided it was time to finally make the CLA and yesterday I took the camera to the DCS.To my surprise, the receptionist said that this is completely normal behavior in general for any curtain DSLR and even a complete cleaning of the mechanisms and changing the lubricant does not guarantee long-term operation in the cold. After examining the camera, he also advised to replace all the seals and the foam rubber damper of the mirror, well, they decided to do the cleaning and lubrication.

Question to members of the forum - who has a similar experience?

Fortunately, there was no experience yet, but there are similar symptoms - on the extreme winter shooting, literally on two frames, the first curtain slowed down at the end of its path, although the frost was not weak then.

Thank you. Unfortunately, it will take a long time to check the CLA result.

I looked for my photographs by tags and found several dozen pictures taken with the Olympus OM-10 in November-December, but walks there were no longer than an hour and the frost was not strong, which Pentax also always coped with. Not at the right time, I raised the issue of frost resistance, but anyway, now I’ll think about which camera is better to take if it’s cold outside.

The question is rather that there are no longer any craftsmen capable of competently making CLA to disassemble and rinse the curtain sleeves and then assemble everything. In addition, the spotmatic has a common drive for the mirror and the second curtain, so the mirror sticks in the cold.
Moreover, such a procedure is not cheap. And with a high price and insufficient qualifications, it is generally an ambush. You can just change all the foam rubber, check the contacts and soldering yourself.

You need to shoot more often. A peeled spotmatic that is constantly in work has more chances to be a worker in the cold than a glamorous collector's item that has been lying without work.

Repair of a Pentax K-5 SLR camera is carried out by qualified engineers of our service. All the necessary equipment is available for repairing Pentax SLR cameras. If it is necessary to install spare parts, we offer only original components.

The prices in the table are for repair work, excluding the cost of spare parts.

All information provided is for reference only and is not a public offer. Check the terms and the actual cost of repairs with our specialists by phone +7 (495) 363-78-55

The Tech-Profi service center is always happy to help in solving problems that have arisen with your digital camera. Our engineers carry out repairs of any complexity. From lens repair, shutter module (shutters, aperture, stabilizer), to complex electrical repair of the motherboard and restoration of the Pentax K-5 camera after flooding, sand or severe mechanical damage, at the lowest prices in Moscow.

The addresses of our service centers:

* Discount is provided for the work of the master. Specify the exact cost by phone.

Digital camera Pentax Optio 33L (with 3x optical zoom).

When turned on, the child touched the sliding lens and the device turned off (possibly due to the motor current).

After switching on, the motor hums strained (plaintively), and the lens does not move Image - DIY pentax repair

If you look into the lens, the shutter is not closed, and the concentric tubes of the body are asymmetrically displaced relative to one another in the horizontal plane (skew) and the lens is mechanically rigidly clamped, does not flutter as before.

Most likely there is no breakdown of the mechanism, because after it became clear that the mechanic had jammed the batteries were taken out and no crunches and crackles were heard.

How to properly disassemble the body of the device so as not to break it completely? and having disassembled to loosen the tension created by the motor, you may have to disconnect it from the circuit for this and supply power from an external source (laboratory power supply unit, for example).

I have experience of such work, but I haven’t had to disassemble digital devices yet, this is the first one in my practice.

I would be very grateful if the pros explain how to repair such a malfunction, or if someone shares a service manual.

But is there any pitfalls in this device without knowing which you can finally break it and even SC will not help? for example hidden latches, sequence of removal of mechanical elements, indexes on gears?

(the fact is that I'm not at home yet and disassembling the device without a tool and outside the workshop is fraught, and it is cheaper to drag it to the SC or to a special workshop - it’s cheaper to buy a new one with the same characteristics Image - DIY pentax repair

I looked on the internet, in Moscow, prices for repairing digital cameras from $ 100 start even without replacing components Image - DIY pentax repair

and where in Moscow (closer to the center and to the metro, it is desirable) can such repairs be performed inexpensively and with high quality?

I managed to wedge the lens! The devil is not so terrible. (WITH)
The most difficult part was finding the right tool and calculating the location of the screws.

I wedged the lens in this way (I hope someone else might come in handy):

1. Take out ist. power supply and flashcard.
2. Carefully unscrew with a watch screwdriver (there is a cross, but very thin) all the screws that secure the covers from the outside: (3 from below, 2 from the side of the lace, 1 above the interface connectors, 1 under the flip of the flip display.
3. The back cover is removed, neatly unhooking the halves with a sim card, or with a fingernail, after lifting the display to the upper position.

4. After removing the back cover, be careful. ATTENTION! flash capacitor can kill to death!
DO NOT TOUCH ITS CHAINS OR FLASH CHAINS IN ANY CASE.

It seemed problematic to me to discharge it, I just took out the batteries a couple of weeks before disassembly and during this time it self-discharged (I hope), well, I was careful constantly not to touch it (you can still carefully close up the flash zone, for example, with masking paper tape, it is not strong it sticks and can be easily removed afterwards.

1 more insidious screw is located in the depth in the region of the strap; it is convenient to unscrew it with a pre-magnetized screwdriver.

I still unscrewed the screws in the area of ​​the LCD (but not the ones that hold the matrix! - you can knock off the alignment!), but IMHO they did not interfere.

5. After all the screws have been removed, the inner part, actually the CPC itself, can be easily pulled out of the front cover, there is nothing holding it here.

It is best to disassemble such a trifle on a flat table on a clean white sheet of paper in good lighting and armed with a binocular, just for every fireman. Where from which screw is unscrewed, it is also better to sketch along the way, they are not all the same there!

Now the most important operation: Near the lens we find the motor of its drive (it has all the gears under the lid and the gearbox there looks like a worm gear, so trying to turn the gears, those at the top, is not worth it - it's useless.
From this motor there are 2 wires, red (closer to the lens) and black (farther away), each soldered to its own ball on the ribbon - we solder the black one.

We apply voltage to the wires GOING TO THE MOTOR! from an external current source, I used 3 AAA elements connected in series (I used a clip from a Chinese LED flashlight), from 1 or even from 2 elements the motor did not want to smoke, but from 3 it agreed Image - DIY pentax repair

My wedge was tight, so I had to slightly loosen the screws securing the gearbox housing. With a weak wedge, I hope this will not come in handy.

As a result, it was possible to remove the lens from the wedge with short pulses!

After he began to move, I had to help a little with my hands - to eliminate the skew.

After making sure that there is no wedge, we tighten the screws for securing the gearbox as it was, and several times we drive the lens back and forth from an external source, checking that everything is normal.

Gently solder everything back, check that nothing is broken and that no hair or dust is left, we put it together in reverse order.

When assembling, do not forget to correctly put in place the flag of the microswitch of the cover of the flash card, the bastard flies Image - DIY pentax repair

and still strives to pop out the pin of the strap - I smeared it with transparent silicone sealant for this.

Everything! you can collect and enjoy life Image - DIY pentax repair

I hope this instruction will help someone else, tk. accidentally slowing down the lens is not surprising Image - DIY pentax repair

.

But about the pebbles in the next message. if you do everything carefully, they will not be!

Pebbles, pebbles, how can it be without them Image - DIY pentax repair

and so, about the promised stones, their mother Image - DIY pentax repair

If you look into an open lens, you can see such a spherical movable shutter (it moves when shooting, opening and closing the lens). after this problem with the wedge, after this problem with the wedge, it does not open to the end as before, but is always almost closed (a small crack remains and it does not move as before Image - DIY pentax repair

and Kaer takes pictures, but the luminosity is clearly not enough and the pictures look dark)

A question for knowledgeable people: What could jam there and how to get to it?

least of all I want to disassemble the lens completely, tk. this procedure will entail the need for alignment Image - DIY pentax repair

Lens malfunction - this must be the most common failure of digital cameras. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include“E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problem”) (Kodak), “Lens> error, restart camera” or just “lens error” (almost all camera manufacturers use this option lately). Some cameras may not display anything at all, but only beep, the lens moves in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even extend.

The problem is actually quite common with all digital camera models. Usually it is sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. The camera may have been turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, it was accidentally turned on in the bag). It happens that after extending the lens, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the extended lens. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens malfunctions is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials like to cling to the camera body due to frictional electrostatic charge (especially when the case is soft and fluffy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism and malfunction messages occur. I own a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

For the owner of the camera with this problem, there may be no point in contacting the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not cover this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to shock or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which are covered by the warranty). The cost of repairs is usually close to or more than what the camera actually costs. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a faulty lens for a new one, the cost of which is high as a spare part.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this trouble can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembling the camera, although some can cause other damage if overdone and careless. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty workshop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty, or to determine how much they will charge for paid repairs. Who knows, you might get lucky.But if they list an amount that is higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in the order shown. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should be considered only for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repair in which is lower than in the warranty.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and # 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to low battery power when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try locating and selecting “reset” to reset the camera to its original position. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option and thus the parameter may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely discharged while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert it into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as it causes a reset in some models. Error E30 (for old Canon) means that you have no card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio / video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD remains off while the process begins. Thus, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in bridging dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If the AV cable does not correct the lens error on its own, I consider keeping that cable installed on the line when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means of providing extra power to aid in those attempts. But please note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is being extended. Hopefully, while the lens is extending and the AF lens is moving, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a rubber blower to blow out the gaps between the lens cups with compressed air. The idea is to blow out sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other options for blowing out are using a hair dryer in cold mode or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some people use a vacuum cleaner for this.

We are now entering the area of ​​potentially dangerous camera rescue methods.There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you actually notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow does not help knock them out, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Take special care not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I do not recommend going too deep around the lens barrel with paper (do not go deeper than 1 cm). I especially do not recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust pad that sits just inside this gap.

Method 6: Hit the rubber USB cover repeatedly with the intention of knocking out any particles that might be obstructing the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report the success of this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities of damage or displacement of internal components using this method, such as loose cables from connectors, or cracked LCD screens.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this if there is no obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens facing down, try to “gently” tap the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that might interfere with the movement of the lens frames. Try turning the camera on and off at the same time while you are doing this.

Method 7a: Note that this correction method is intended only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops, passing part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens barrel at its most extended position, preventing the lens from returning. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again to prevent it from coming back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to see if the problem has gone away.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just keep in mind that this is absolutely the last method before discarding your camera, and there is obvious potential for further damage to the camera with this method. You may want to consider this technique if the lens is visibly and clearly damaged, bent, or distorted, such as from dropping. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a dislocated shoulder. Try forcing the lens to straighten and snap back into place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will be in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a “click” confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop further efforts at this point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other method.

Variations on Method 7b: Gently pull, rotate, and / or twist the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or align the barrels if they are bent or kinked. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest clearance (note that pushing the lens barrel all the way in is not recommended as it may get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to the "click", which means the pins of the glasses hit the guide grooves.If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

Although Pentax cameras came to the market relatively recently, they managed to win the love of many users. Needless to say, compactness, decent picture quality, and all this at a very democratic price. However, sooner or later, the question will arise, where can the Pentax camera be repaired? Yes, you can do this with your own hands, but in such cases there is a very high chance that you can only break some other elements. To prevent this from happening, you should contact us for help in repairing the Pentax camera!

  1. Lens damage is the most common problem faced by users. It can arise, as well as due to mechanical damage, because what kind of equipment in general likes to fall from a height, and because of internal reasons, such as small debris, dust. To prevent this from happening, you should contact our service center for preventive cleaning of the device;
  2. Shutter breakage is perhaps the most frequently used detail in the device, without which no picture will come out. Even in spite of the fact that initially this device has a very good supply of the shutter resource, sooner or later it ends. But our craftsmen are always ready to come to your aid, replacing damaged elements;
  3. Battery failure this is a rather unpleasant situation, since without an autonomous power supply, you can forget about the possibility of photographing something or someone outside the area of ​​the outlet. However, even in such a situation, our specialists will be able to help you;
  4. The flash does not work - unfortunately, the reason for this phenomenon can be both the burnout of the lamp itself and mechanical damage to the camera. In order to accurately establish the cause of the malfunction and quickly eliminate it, you should contact our masters!

In addition to the obvious advantages, special equipment and qualified personnel, we have one more advantage. This is that in all types of work we use only those elements that are supplied to us by the plant itself, which helps to guarantee not only extremely high quality, but also allows us to reduce their price to the minimum. What helps to save the budget when repairing Pentax cameras!

Cameras and cameras of the Pentax brand are known for their reliability, as befits Japanese technology. Pentax cameras are suitable for a wide variety of types of photography. They can take pictures of city landscapes and make portraits, take on trips and engage exclusively in studio, portrait photography. In general, we can say that Pentax cameras are designed for all occasions. Of course, manufacturers have tried to give them all kinds of protection, including shockproof and waterproof, but, unfortunately, anything happens in life, and Pentax cameras can also break. The reasons can be both purely mechanical and technical. It is not always possible to independently determine the breakdown, but it is definitely not worth doing the repair of Pentax cameras with your own hands. For this there is a "Service -like" company.

  • You call our service center and describe the breakdown of your camera
  • At your request, you either come to our office yourself and bring the camera, or our courier comes to you for it
  • Our masters carry out a thorough diagnosis of the camera using modern equipment
  • Our specialists will contact you and tell you the price and period of the repair
  • After the repair, you come to our office for the camera, or we will send our courier to you again.

As you can see, you can save not only your money, but also your time by contacting the "Service -like" company. We are confident in the quality of our work, and we give a guarantee for our services. Contact our Pentax camera repair center, and your equipment will serve you for a long time and with high quality.

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Please note that this website is for informational purposes only and under no circumstances is a public offer determined by the provisions of Article 437 (2) of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation. For detailed information on the availability and cost of the specified goods and (or) services, please contact the manager.

hi lore, did it happen that my beautiful camera just stopped turning on? I see that the batteries are discharged, well, I charged them, put them on, but the fotik simply does not turn on and that's it. I tried everything, lithium, NiMh, ordinary alkaline, all to no use. At the forum of photographers, they did not really advise me anything, they only said that this camera has problems with power supply and there it is possible, I quote attention:

> the time has come. the microcircuits are dry. anything. and microcircuits can not? 🙂 only capacitors? 🙂

just like a normal motherboard in a personal computer dies just from time to time. the part has worked out its time and is out of order.

It turns out that nowadays iron dies for no reason, from time to time.

In short, repair is necessary. I am requestering suitable workshops in Moscow in which the cameraman will not be killed completely, not gutted for details, but simply repaired. su && cast dk-, the photographer seems to know what.

Linux is here despite the fact that the internal firmware of the fotik is most likely on Linux.

Pentax ME-Super repair tips

Part II
The principle of operation is very simple: 1. pressed the shutter button, it raised the mirror, the mirror opened the shutter, the shutter closed and lowered the mirror. And now the slides (clickable):

First, the bottom picture. This is the shutter, or rather the piece of it that interacts with the mirror. Position (a) - shutter cocked, position (b) - worked. The shutter is activated by pressing the (With)... The arrow indicates the part that brings the mirror out of the upper position. I will name it (detail) (ab).
Now let's take a look at the mirror mechanism. In the first picture (m0), the mirror is cocked, but no one pressed the shutter button; on the second (m1) - the mirror has gone up, the shutter is open; on the third (m2) - the shutter closed and the mirror went back to its original position.
Mirror mechanism operation.
1. see fig. m0. Pressing the shutter button (shutter cocked) through the self-timer shoulder (5) goes up, releasing (5a) aperture lever (6, A) and lever (WITH); last roller (4a) lifts up the mirror and brass lever (2)which just clicks on (With) shutter.
(A) and (V) - two powerful springs, the main driving force of the mechanism; (A) raises the diaphragm drive and mirror, (V) - returns the mechanisms to their original position.
2. see fig. m1. Now the mirror is up, the diaphragm is open, the shutter is open. When the shutter is closed by an element conventionally designated (ab) presses the lever (3)that releases the lock (1a) spring (V) returns the lever (WITH) to its original position, Fig. m2.

Video (click to play).

Part III
If something doesn't work ... (see fig. M0).

  • The mirror is raised, the camera does not react to our exploits. Watch lever (2), it is easy enough to deform and it triggers the shutter. Straighten and put in place.
  • When the shutter is cocked, there is a feeling that something is slipping somewhere. Watch the spring (8)... She is responsible for the correct operation of the castle (1a), in turn fixing the cocking spring in the cocked position. Put in place.
  • When the shutter is cocked, the mirror goes up. Commit doesn't work (5a), the reason is the spring on the axis of this lever.
  • When the shutter is cocked, the mirror moves up and down / or / shutter response delay / or / some other abnormal behavior in the mirror mechanisms. Rotted rubber dampers (7) and (7a) and messed up the mechanisms. They are noise dampers and vibration dampers when (.) The mirror is returned to its original state. They can simply be removed, the camera will not work worse because of this. But it is also necessary to remove the traces of their vital activity - you can gently clean it with a cotton swab with gasoline (do not leave a lint in the mechanism), or you can disassemble everything, rinse it in the same gasoline, and reassemble it. And no grease. Yes, after this procedure, the mirror mechanism will work correctly in any frost.

    PS: This material can be useful when repairing many Pentax film cameras, since the principles of their mechanisms are similar. Suitable for ME-F, ME and all M line; Super Program / Super-A and similar devices; P3 / P30 / P30n and similar devices.For series with electronic shutter release, the triggering method has changed, but the principle of operation for the mirror lift / return mechanism is the same.

    PS: there is still a third elastic band, I accidentally found it. to remove it, unscrew the flat screw between 3 and 1a.

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