Do-it-yourself t 40 front axle repair

Repair of the front drive axle and alteration of the steering hydraulic cylinder mounting in the T40AM tractor. The repair is connected with the left wheel which does not turn back. We were able to fix the problem with the wheel blocking, although there were no obvious signs of breakage during the autopsy.

Music: N39to-Trauma-Worakls-Remix, I-Am-Waiting-For-You-Last-Summer-Solar-Wind
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Video Repair of the Front Drive Axle of the T-40AM Tractor. channel Maksim TechnikPRO

Front axle device

The front drive axle of the T-40 AM and T-40 ANM tractors are used to increase tractive effort and increase cross-country ability on wet soils and off-road conditions. The front axle consists of a transfer case, differential, main and final gears and suspension.

T-40 front axle diagram: 1 - transfer case housing; 2 - cork; 3 - gear; 4, 24 - ball bearings: 5 - front cover; 6 - transfer case shaft; 7 - drive shaft of the front driving axle; 8 - main drive shaft; 9 - driving gear; 10 - glass; 11 - driven gear; 12 - shims; 13 - wedge; 14 - semiaxis; 15 - brake washer; 16 - bridge body; 17 - the axis of the dog; 18 - dog; 19 - differential housing cover; 20 - shield; 21 - final transfer; 22 - front wheel suspension; 23 - cardan; 25 - slotted cage; 26 - differential case; 27 - pin; 28 - sleeve.

Front axle final drive

The final drive consists of a pair of bevel gears with a circular tooth. The pinion gear is mounted in a glass on two ball bearings. The driven gear is part of the differential and is attached to the differential housing with bolts and pins.

During the operation of the front axle, it is necessary to control the lateral clearance in the meshing of the teeth of the main drive. In the event of noise and other malfunctions, it is necessary to check the meshing clearance or the axial play of the drive gear. Due to the wear of the teeth, an increase in the lateral clearance in the engagement is permissible up to 2 millimeters. If the clearance increases due to wear of the bearing raceways, they must be replaced with new ones. The factory adjustment of the lateral clearance in the meshing of the gears is within the range of 0.17-0.65 mm.

Both gears are replaced simultaneously during operation and in the further development of their resource. When installing the hoses, the total number of shims on both sides should be such that the differential rotates freely in the bearings from the force of the hand without any jamming or displacement.

Front axle differential

The differential allows the drive wheels to rotate at the same angular speed, which is required when driving the tractor over uneven terrain and when making maneuvers.

The design of the front drive axle differential is a double-acting, ratchet-type double overrunning clutch. The differential consists of a housing, a splined cage, a driven gear and a cover, connected by four bolts. In the driven gear, the cover and the differential housing there are two axles on which a pawl is installed on the key. During the rotation of the driven gear, the pawls engage with the inner races by the friction force that appears between the special patterns at the ends of the pawl axles and the surfaces of the brake discs.

With the help of springs, the axles are constantly pressed against the brake washers to create frictional force. Depending on the direction of rotation, the pawl engages one of its ends. If the rear wheels rotate with less than 4% slippage, then the spline clips overtake the driven gear, forcing the pawls to click along the teeth of the clips. When the slipping of the rear wheels exceeds 4%, the forward motion of the tractor will decrease, while the driven gears and the angular speeds of the cage will equalize.With a subsequent increase in rear wheel slippage, the pawls will mesh with the spline cage, as a result of which the torque will be transmitted from the driven gear through the spline cages and axle shafts to the front wheels.

The differential is mounted in sleeves on two ball bearings: on one side, on the neck of the differential cover, on the other, on the neck of the driven gear.

The front axle body of the T-40 is equipped with a breather, which serves to maintain a stable pressure in the cavities of the differential, main gear and hoses. To prevent oil from leaking out of these cavities, special O-rings and seals are installed.

Through double cardan shafts, torque is transmitted to the final drives. Needle bearings and cardan crosspieces are unified with similar components of GAZ vehicles. All used cardan joints consist of a crosspiece and two forks. Needle bearings are located in the holes of the forks, into which the cross pins are inserted.

Alteration and modernization of the front axle T-40

Watch this video as a visual aid for redesigning the front axle of a tractor.

Reducer of the front axle of the T-40 tractor

A gearbox (transfer case) is used to transfer the drive from the gearbox to the front drive axle. The gearbox consists of a housing and a gear, which is mounted on the splines of the shaft. The shaft and pinion are mounted in a housing on two ball bearings. With the help of the drive shaft, rotation is transmitted from the shaft to the drive shaft of the main gear.

To prevent winding of plants, a special protective cover is installed on the drive shaft.

The bearings and gears are lubricated with oil from the tractor transmission. In the front cover of the gearbox housing of the t-40 tractor, there are cuffs to prevent oil leakage.

Front axle gearbox diagram: 1, 8 - cuffs; 2, 13, 19 - bolts; 3, 12 - lock washers; 4 - cover; 5 - roller bearings; 6 - case; 7 - bearing glass; 9 - drive pinion fork; 10 - a leading gear wheel; 11 - ball bearing; 14 - driven gear; 15 - hairpin; 16 - cork; 17 - pallet; 18 - cuff body; 20 - semi-axis.

Front axle final drives

The final drives are used to increase the torque and decrease the rotational speed transmitted to the front drive wheels of the T-40 ANM and T-40 AM tractors. All final drives are single-stage spur gear reducers. The pinion is mounted on the spline end of the fork and is mounted in a housing on two tapered roller bearings. The driven gear is located on the half-shaft splines and is installed in the gearbox housing on two ball bearings. The wheel disc is attached to the axle shaft flange with bolts. Swivel levers and brackets of the protective fenders of the front wheels are attached to the gearbox housing. To the pivoting levers, in turn, the steering linkage rods are riveted.

At the end of seasonal work, it is recommended to check the fork end play. In the event that the backlash exceeds 0.3 mm, then it is necessary to adjust the clearance in the tapered bearings by removing the adjusting shims from under the cover.

Front axle suspension

A suspension is installed on the T-40 Am tractor, which serves to improve the smoothness of the ride and reduce the vibration. The swivel suspension bracket, which is connected by means of pins to the final drive housing, is equipped with a bushing pressed into it. The bracket has the ability to rotate relative to the one welded to the retractable bracket, turning the front wheels. The rubbing surfaces of the bushing and bracket are lubricated through an oiler. When exposed to shocks, the swing arm with the final drive is fixed on the bracket with crackers placed in the bore, as well as a rod, which is connected by a pin to the cover of the swing arm.

Suspension scheme: 1 - swivel bracket; 2 - spring; 3, 14 - bolts; 4 - pin; 5 - cover; 6 - stock; 7 - biscuit; 8 - bracket; 9 - oiler; 10 - bushing; 11 - traverse; 12 - thrust ball bearing; 13 - retractable bracket; 15, 16 - thrust rings; 17 - nut.

On the T-40 ANM tractor, the suspension springs are compressed by bolts, as a result of which the height of the front of the tractor is slightly reduced. The T-40 AMM tractor can be easily converted into a row-crop T-40 AM. To do this, remove the tie bolts, a thrust ring and replace the rear wheels with wheels with 13.6R38 tires.

The device of the engine of the T-40 tractor: piston, crankshaft, cylinders

The device and operation of the power transmission of the T-40 tractor

The device of the power supply system of the T-40 tractor: injectors, high pressure fuel pumps, etc.

Electrical equipment T-40: diagrams and device.

Hydraulic system: malfunctions and repairs.

Tractor T-40 - device, operation and repair

Repair of the T40AM tractor should be carried out in accordance with the user's manual. Having all the necessary tools, you can carry out the repair work yourself.

Tractor T-40 - repair of the front axle is as follows:

1. Disconnect the steering rod.
2. Take out the pivot levers.
3. Release the ladders and remove the springs.
4. Remove the caps, front axle suspension hubs and the brake drum.
5. Disassemble the brake mechanism.
6. Disconnect the protective brake discs from the trunnion flanges.
7. Knock out the stoppers of the pins, disconnect from the axle of the trunnion.
8. Carry out the repair of the side part or replace the worn out parts.
9. Assemble the front drive axle, performing all the steps in reverse order.

The cause of the breakdown may be the deflection of the front axle. Therefore, to determine such a defect, you need:

1. Insert the rods into the hole under the pivot.
2. Install prisms on the spring attachment site.
3. Put a special square.
4. Determine the size and direction of the deflection by the gap between the square and the prism.

The axle should be corrected under the press in a cold state, because heating can cause a violation of its heat treatment.

The rear axle device of the T-40 tractor includes:

• gearbox housing;
• flange, which belongs to the cardan transmission;
• main gears;
• self-locking center differential.

During maintenance and repair, do the following:

1. Drain oil from gearbox.
2. Disconnect propeller shaft.
3. Dismantle the axle shafts.
4. Remove rear wheels and drum brake.
5. Remove the securing bolts that connect the gearbox and rear axle.
6. Remove oil seals, flanges, bearings and satellites.
7. Inspect all parts for damage and wear.

The procedure for assembling the rear axle gearbox:

1. Attach the adjusting washer to the pinion gear.
2. Attach spacer sleeve, bearings and flange.
3. Tighten the lock nut.
4. Install the driven gear into the differential housing.
5. Adjust the backlash.
6. Tighten all fastening nuts and bolts.

In order to repair the locking mechanism, you need:

1. Set the gear shift knob to neutral.
2. Release the main clutch pedal, i.e. the clutch must be engaged.
3. Loosen the pin of the fork and remove it from the lever of the locking mechanism.
4. Move the lever to the extreme position, which will correspond to the engaged clutch.
5. Unscrew the plug and disconnect it from the rod.
6. Adjust the locking mechanism.
7. Replace the fork pin and pin it.

In order to lubricate all the parts of this mechanism, it is necessary to spray oil on the transmission housing of the vehicle.

Differential lock is installed as follows:

1. Install the tractor on a special platform.
2. Unscrew the wheels.
3. Remove the brake drum mechanisms.
4. Adjusts and pulls out axle shafts, propeller shaft, gearboxes.
5. They put the lock and install all the parts in the reverse order.

Before replacing the brake bands on the T-40, you need to remove the worn out part:

1. Remove the fuel fluid container.
2. Remove the front and rear floor panels.
3. Remove the top covers and rear hatches.
4. Disconnect the linkage from the brake lever.
5. Unscrew the adjusting nut.
6. Remove the roller arm from the bracket.
7. Disconnect the brake band.
8. Unscrew the fastening screws from the inside of the housing.
9. Dismantle the bracket.
10. Pull the brake bands towards the rear at the upper end.
11. Unscrew the bolts that connect the top and bottom of the bands.
12. Remove the upper part of the brake band from the drum of the onboard friction mechanism.
13. Roll the bottom of the tape around the drum and pull it out.
14. Remove the brake spring and rod from the lever.
15. Unscrew the outer arm bolt and remove it from the roller.
16. Find the key. There is a dog on the key, it needs to be knocked out.
17. Knock out the roller together with the plug.
18. Remove the lever and ring.
19. Replace the brake band and reinstall all mechanisms.

The transmission gearbox consists of the following parts:

• input shaft;
• conical driven gear;
• reverse and bearing cups;
• shims;
• lock washers;
• retaining ring;
• distance sleeve.

DIY gearbox repair:

1. Place the vehicle on a special platform equipped with wheel chocks.
2. Drain the transmission fluid.
3. Disconnect all major components to gain access to the mechanism.
4. Place the motor and gearbox on the supports.
5. Remove the propeller shaft.
6. Disconnect gearbox from engine and support type cushions.
7. Remove the box.
8. Clean the checkpoint from contamination.
9. Disassemble the box.
10. Unscrew the fifth gear cover.
11. Inspect the transmission fork, if necessary replace it with a new one.
12. Take out the shafts and the coupling.
13. Check gears, final drive of the tractor and splines for wear.
14. Check new gears for runout.
15. Replace bearings.
16. Assemble the checkpoint and install it back on the vehicle, repeating all the steps in reverse order.

Elimination of malfunctions in the operation of the power steering (power steering):

1. Install the screw assembly with the front nut and front cover into the piston section so that the pin moves to the forward position.
2. Turn the piston.
3. Install a rod into the end hole of the nut.
4. Using a screwdriver, turn the nut until it is fully secured with the bolt.
5. Connect a pressure gauge to the steering column pressure line.
6. Unscrew the plug.
7. Install the stop between the bipod and the front side of the bar.
8. Unscrew cap and lock nut.
9. Start the engine.
10. Set the maximum number of revolutions of the crankshaft.
11. Rotate the bipod to adjust the oil bypass pressure level through the relief valves.
12. Tighten the lock nut and cap.
13. Replace the tapered plug.

In order to avoid malfunctions in the operation of the hydraulic power steering, you need to periodically check the steering wheel play and tighten all nuts and bolts.

Procedure when adjusting the clutch:

1. Open the hatch of the clutch basket.
2. Loosen the cotter pins and pull out the axle part of the drawbar fork.
3. Remove the fork from the lever.
4. When screwing on the fork, set the length of the rod so that when the fork is connected to the handle, the gap between the ends of the levers and the release-type bearings is 4 mm.
5. Install and pin the axle part of the fork.
6. Close the hatch in the basket together with the lid.

If this mechanism cannot be adjusted by increasing the length of the rod, then you can do the following:

1. Open the top hatch and unpin the nuts.
2. Unscrew the adjusting bolts.
3. Move all levers to forward position.
4. Connect the clutch lever and drawbar.
5. Pin the axle.
6. Adjust the gap using the feeler gauges.

Replacing the clutch is carried out as follows:

1. Dismantle the front wheels.
2. Remove the attachment cable from the bracket.
3. Disconnect the cable.
4. Unscrew the bolts.
5. Loosen the rear trailing arm attachment.
6. Unscrew the bolts that are on the left bracket.
7. Unscrew the lower casing.
8. Unscrew the rear engine mount.
9. Remove the drive clamp.
10. Remove the engine fasteners.
11. Unscrew the clutch.
12. Change bearings.
13. Replace the driven disc.

In order to install the dispenser, you need to do the following:

1. Remove control levers.
2. Remove the anther plates, the anthers themselves and the sealing elements.
3. Remove all covers and pull out the spools.
4. Remove the hydraulic power steering.
5. Replace worn bearings in the control system with new ones.
6. Remove the device worm.
7. Install the dispenser shaft in place of the removed worm.
8. Fasten the dosing equipment with the countersunk screws.
9. Check the functionality of the pumping mechanism.
10. Install the pump in the power steering system.

In order to avoid malfunctions in the operation of the dosing device, you should regularly clean it from the accumulated dirt inside.

1. Completely disassemble the entire steering column assembly.
2. Remove the rubber O-ring.
3. Flush the pump with kerosene.
4. Flush all bushings.
5. Assemble the mechanism in reverse order. During installation of the pair, the pump must be turned with the holes outward.

If the tractor smokes, then the reason for this may be:

• incorrect adjustment of the working fluid supply;
• motor overload;
• incorrect installation of the piston part;
• dirty air cleaner;
• a small advance angle of the fuel liquid injection system;
• damaged injectors.

In these cases, engine repair is required using spare parts, and in some situations, overhaul.

If the smoke is black, then it is recommended to reduce the load on the power unit or switch to first or second gear. It is also worth checking the nozzle holes of the spray mechanism with a needle, rinsing it, and, if necessary, replacing it.

When white smoke pours down, you need to grind the valves or replace the heads of the cylindrical elements. White smoke can be caused by water entering the diesel fuel, in which case it is necessary to drain the fuel fluid and refill with a new one.

Blue smoke is a sign that piston parts such as rings and liners have been damaged.

Installation of a high pressure fuel pump (TNVD):

1. Determine the position of the wide slot in the flange on the fuel pump.
2. Turn the shaft of the pump element so that the wide part of the groove of the splined sleeve is against the wide spline in the flange.
3. Insert the pump into the gear hub using the locating pin.
4. Install the pumping mechanism.
5. Bolt the high and low pressure pump.

1. Warm up the engine.
2. Start the power unit at idle speed.
3. Pull up the tray.
4. Loosen the locking nut.
5. Slowly turn the distributor in different directions.
6. At maximum engine speed, try to press the gas pedal.
7. If there are no interruptions, pops or shots when pressed sharply, then the ignition is installed on the tractor.
8. From this position, turn the camshaft housing 2-3 ° clockwise.
9. Tighten the locking element.

In order to make a stove for this tractor model, you need to weld 5 or 6 longitudinal ribs onto the manifold of the power unit. The thickness of the elements should not exceed 3 mm, and the height - 30 mm.