The front suspension is disassembled in the same cases as the rear. The process at the initial stage is similar to dismantling the rear undercarriage.
To facilitate the task, as well as in the absence of the skills and knowledge of the technical device of the car, it is recommended to seek help from a car service specialist. Diagnostics usually takes a little time, and the cost of such services is about 1,000 rubles +/- 500 rubles. But the repair and replacement of suspension parts depends on the complexity and type of components. Therefore, the cost of work can range from 500 rubles (for example, replacing silent blocks on a Lada Priora) to 5,000 (dismantling and replacing shock absorbers on all sides with springs, you will also need to carry out a descent / collapse).
VIDEO
Assembly is carried out in the complete opposite sequence of dismantling, with the exception of some points. For example, care should be taken when attaching the bracket to the body, as it is easy to damage the threads. The second nuance is to prevent the longitudinal displacement of the cushion 6a on the rod during the installation of the anti-roll bar.
To disassemble and then assemble the front or rear suspension of the Lada Priora, one desire is not enough. It is necessary to have the skills of car repair and knowledge of the structure of the chassis. Some motorists go even further and install air suspension that is more difficult to install and maintain, but this is already a matter of desire and availability of financial and other opportunities, since such tuning is not the cheapest and easiest.
It is better to carry out such work together with an experienced assistant. It is also recommended to pre-familiarize yourself with the materials on this topic, study thematic video tutorials, etc.
We check the condition of the running gear and transmission every 15 thousand kilometers. On the parts of the chassis (wheels, suspension arms, anti-roll bar, rear suspension beam, shock absorbers and suspension springs) and transmission (front wheel drive shafts) there should be no deformations, cracks or other mechanical damage affecting the shape and strength of the parts.
Use factory-made support legs only.
Grasping the wheel in a vertical plane, alternately sharply pull the upper part of the wheel towards ourselves, and the lower part away from ourselves, and vice versa.
Pressing the lever with the mounting blade, we observe the movement of the lever head relative to the ball joint housing.
We check the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints.
... insert a mounting paddle between the body bracket and the lever head ...
... and the back ends of the guy lines.
Inspecting the anti-roll bar cushions ...
... and rubber bushings for stabilizer struts.
… We insert the mounting paddle between the body bracket and the lever head and try to move the lever in different directions.
We check the condition of the springs, telescopic struts and shock absorbers of the front and rear suspensions.
We check the condition of the hinges and the protective cover of the gearshift rod and jet thrust.
... inspecting the protective covers of the outer ...
… And the internal hinges of the front wheel drives, we check the reliability of their fastening with clamps.
The front suspension of the Lada Priora as a whole remains the same as on the predecessor VAZ 2110. There are slight differences in the springs and shock absorbers. Diseases migrated along with the suspension (for example, short service life of wheel bearings, ball bearings). The table shows the problems in the front suspension of the Lada Priora, as well as how to fix them.
1 - steering knuckle; 2 - eccentric bolt; 3 - shock absorber rack; 4 - lever; 5 - stabilizer bar; 6 - bracket for fastening the stabilizer bar cushion; 7 - the rack of the stabilizer bar; 8 - front suspension cross member; 9 - ball bearing; 10 - stretching
1 - telescopic rack; 2 - spring; 3 - stem nut; 4 - upper support rebound travel stop; 5 - upper support; 6 - bearing; 7 - upper spring cup; 8 - spring gasket; 9 - stop for the compression stroke of the upper support; 10 - compression stroke buffer; 11 - protective cover
1 - ball bearing; 2 - hub; 3 - nut of the hub bearing; 4 - protective cap; 5 - hub bearing; 6 - steering fist; 7 - nut; 8 - front wheel brake disc; 9 - brake shield; 10 - eccentric (adjusting) bolt; 11 - pivot arm; 12 - front suspension spring; 13 - shock absorber rod; 14 - upper spring cup; 15 - the upper support of the shock absorber; 16 - shock absorber rod nut; 17 - bearing of the upper support of the shock absorber strut; 18 - spring gasket; 19 - buffer of the compression stroke of the front suspension; 20 - protective casing; 21 - rack body; 22 - bracket for fastening the cushion of the anti-roll bar; 23 - stretching the front suspension; 24 - front wheel drive shaft; 25 - bar of the anti-roll bar; 26 - anti-roll bar; 27 - front suspension arm
The lifespan of suspension elements varies greatly from country to country, and this is due to the quality of the road surface. While the suspension rarely changes abroad, in the case of Russian roads, suspension elements have to be changed every year, and sometimes not once. But as determine the wear of the suspension yourself ?
Each of you most likely saw a Zhiguli, which has fallen to one side with its front wheel. This is due to the untimely replacement of the front suspension arms or the lower ball joint of the steering knuckle. It's good if such a breakdown happened at a low speed and everything went without serious consequences.
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To avoid unpleasant damages associated with the suspension, it is recommended to check it regularly. In fact, it is not at all necessary to contact a specialized service station to determine the wear of the suspension arms or paint blocks, you can check the condition of the car's suspension yourself :
The rubber bushings in the suspension elements absorb hard road bumps, preventing them from transferring to the body, and also simultaneously act as hinges, providing mobility of the suspension parts.
All parts and assemblies that are heavily loaded with shocks and vibrations suffer from fatigue, and cracks appear on them over time. For example, the front suspension levers of Zhiguli often “crackle” near the ball joints and near the silent blocks, as well as under the spring supports. If, due to cracks, the transverse rod of the front suspension is notched (in the middle, where it is covered with protection, or at the edges, near the bolts of the lower arm axle), then the rod should be replaced with a new one and in no case should you resort to welding.
Cracks do not pass by the side of the car wheels. Over time, the ductile steel of the wheels easily cracks near bolt holes or ventilation windows. Riding such a wheel is already dangerous. The fragile light alloy wheels require even more attention. After any strong blow, they should be carefully examined.
The behavior of the car changes a lot when the condition of the shock absorbers and suspension springs is not important. When the machine comes off the assembly line, the characteristics of all suspension elements are carefully selected: the springs are resilient enough, and the shock absorbers are effective. In real life, the springs sit down and lose their elasticity, and if their state is completely neglected, then they crack and break. Due to the loss of fluid, shock absorbers cease to damp vibrations.
Repair sagging springs impossible, so they are immediately changed to new ones. Shock absorbers that have fluid leaks can be repaired if they are collapsible, otherwise they can also be replaced.
Check the condition of the shock absorbers possible by alternately swinging each corner of the car. If the insides of the shock absorber are in good working order, then they will not allow more than one or one and a half free rolls, and the faulty ones will remind you of the swing.
Backlash is not only a source of knocking, but also a guarantee of further accelerated wear of suspension parts, which is why it is important not to bring the suspension to a deplorable state.
Check the condition of the steering rod joints follows with an assistant when one shakes the steering wheel, and the other probes each connection.
Check the condition of the steering knuckle joints "Zhiguli" follows differently.
When replacing bearings, they do not need to be tightened too much. If you overtighten, then the hub will get very hot on the move. Suspension diagnostics are also shown in the video:
In conclusion, I would like to remind you that after replacing the front suspension parts, you should adjust the wheel alignment angles.
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The listed defects can be corrected if you know the scheme and device of the front suspension. At the final stage, it does not hurt to make additional tuning of the part. How to make the Lada Priora suspension in its best form and quality, read below.
rounded fist;
eccentric bolt;
a rack responsible for depreciation;
lever arm;
a bar that fits the stabilizer;
bracket for fixing the cushion related to the stabilizer bar;
a stand that fits the stabilizer bar;
transverse suspension component;
ball-type support;
stretching;
spring device;
stem nut;
part limiting the rebound travel of the support located in the upper part;
support placed at the top;
bearing;
silent blocks;
a gasket designed specifically for the spring device;
spring cup at the top;
an element that limits the compression movement of the upper support;
compression motion buffer;
cover for protection.
If there is extraneous noise or a dull thud is clearly audible, it may be necessary to replace the stands. Check the tightness of the bolts fixing the stabilizer hoses, tighten if necessary. If the cushions are worn out, replace with new ones. When loosening the support at the top of the suspension strut to the body, tighten them. Assess the condition of the rubber component of the strut support, ball joint, spring device, compression movement buffer. Replace if damaged or defective. Alternatively, check the wheels for imbalance.
Liquid may leak from the rack, there is only one reason - the stem oil seal has worn out and collapsed. This will be indicated by the appearance of seizures on the rod, damage to the chrome surface, mechanical defects of the O-ring located on the rack body. Replace the old telescopic rack with a new one.
If the suspension in the Priore breaks through, you will have to replace the spring device and the telescopic rack.
It has become difficult to drive the car, it is constantly drifting to the side - it's time to check the air pressure in the tires and normalize it. If the wheel alignment angles leave much to be desired, carry out an alignment camber. It may be necessary to replace the rubber pad in the suspension mounts or the spring.
Tuning a part first of all implies the comfort of the car's movement, and only then it comes to the external component. To put on a steep suspension that will not let the driver down on the road, you need to purchase the following materials and tools:
Front stabilizer SHS.
Spacer.
Component that reinforces the shield at the front.
Front suspension cross member.
Levers from IQ Racing Technology.
Cross piece to fit the front suspension.
What each detail is responsible for:
The stabilizer has a mount like in foreign cars, which can only be dreamed of with a stock stabilizer. Drivers who have already installed and are using an improved version of the stabilizer note the Priora's good handling. The component is fixed to the rack through the rod with the help of an eyelet.
The lower strut successfully pulls together the arms that fit the front suspension. When mounting the device, make sure that the mounting platform is tilted so that the reinforcing arc runs below the muffler and avoids contact with it.
The front panel reinforcement component perfectly fixes the steering rack to the body.To make the tuning look perfect, paint the item in the desired color.
The cross member of the suspension located at the front amazes the drivers of the Priora with its heavy weight, the part is fixed directly under the bumper. Serves as "crabs" and spacers. Car enthusiasts promise amazing profits.
Levers of a famous brand in original quality replace all levers combined, including sabers. Castor can be replaced at the top and bottom.
Such tuning of the Lada Priora will cost about 14,000 rubles.
There is a special offer on our website. You can get a free consultation of our corporate lawyer by simply asking your question in the form below.
VIDEO
The front suspension of the Priora VAZ 2170 is independent, telescopic, with hydraulic shock-absorber struts, coiled barrel springs, lower wishbones with stretch marks and an anti-roll bar. It is worth noting that the Priora suspension has received a number of improvements relative to the tenth family. So the telescopic spring reacts more intelligently to irregularities, changing its stiffness depending on the load.
This table shows the main malfunctions of the Lada Priora suspension and how to fix them. To view information about possible breakdowns, click on the table, it will open in full size.
You will need the following tools: keys "13", "17", "19".
You will need the following tools: spanner wrenches "17", "19", ball joint puller.
You will need: keys "17" (two), "19" (two), "24" (two).
You will need: keys "19" (two), "24" (two), a spanner wrench "17" (two), a wrench for the wheel bolts.
You will need: a key "for 13", "for 17" (two), a hammer (wooden or polymer).
A double-row ball bearing is installed in the hub, which does not require adjustment and lubrication during operation. Pressing out the hub destroys the bearing, so press the hub out of the steering knuckle only to replace the bearing.
A double-row ball bearing is installed in the hub, which does not require adjustment and lubrication during operation.
Even experienced motorists sometimes do not immediately determine the causes of knocking from the side of the front struts. Rumble is heard under the hood when driving and when cornering. There is also a knock in the springs of the shock absorbers. Machine control deteriorates, there is a noticeable backlash at the steering wheel.
The reason for these problems is rather that support bearing of the front strut Priory defective ... The part itself is installed between the support cups, inside there are also rubber gaskets - vibration and noise isolators, which also wear out. "Priorka" is an unpretentious car, but the breakdown of the "support" still happens from time to time.
If the front thrust bearings of the Priora (Kalina, 2110, 2112, 2111) knock, it is worthwhile to engage in diagnostics and replacement.
Some reasons for car malfunction:
expiration of service life (mileage exceeded 70 thousand km);
exceeding axial loads on the struts (careless driving, accidents);
moisture and dust getting under the hood.
To do this, do the following:
Separate VBF support bearing for Priora, Kalina
Upper Front Support Housing Kit
The support bearing is a part of the upper support, which ensures the rotation of the rack along the axis while the car is turning. This part is an important element in the front undercarriage and should be considered carefully.
SKF - No. VKD 35032 (BDA-1027 - not the same) Sweden. The cost is 800 rubles.
VBF - No. 1118-2902840 Russia, Vologda. They cost 650 rubles.
Before starting the replacement, familiarize yourself with the device of the front suspension strut, as well as it is recommended to watch the video (at the bottom of the article) .
Park the car on a flat surface and provide lighting, turn on first gear, it is advisable to also put wheel chocks at the back, and when working with a jack, provide insurance.
new spare parts for replacement.
a set of keys and a "ratchet";
steering tip puller (optional);
hammer;
spring clips or ties (required);
jack and vise.
penetrating grease WD-40.
Torque wrench (optional)
First, remove the rubber cover.
To unscrew the mount, you will need a special elongated double head for 22, sold for 150 rubles.
We grip the smaller inner head with a spanner wrench.
First, loosen the nut (do not unscrew).
Moving on to the bottom of the rack, the wheel has already been removed. We treat the re-knuckle mounts with penetrating grease (WD -40), as well as the steering tip bolt. We stand for some time.
We tear off the bolts of the rack. The process looks like this:
Do not unscrew them immediately, at the end you will have to knock them out. First, unscrew the tip of the ball joint.
We loosen with a spanner wrench, then work with a "ratchet".
Next, you need a special puller, or knock it out gently with a hammer through a wooden gasket.
Let's go back to the bottom strut bolts. We knock them out gently with a hammer with a wooden wedge. The fasteners on the top regulate the camber - do not confuse with the bottom during assembly.
Now the structure does not hold anything, it remains to remove it, we do it from below, pulling the module aside towards ourselves.
We squeeze the springs with the clamps until the outer part of the support is weakened ATTENTION: do not overtighten the spring.
Now we unscrew the lock nut on the stem.
Here is a way to unscrew the locknut so that the stem does not turn, this is done using a hexagon.
After that, it remains to lift the outer cover, and we will gain access to the support bearing for replacement.
Now, depending on what your goal is, we change the whole support, or just the bearing. Prerequisite: replacement of rubber gaskets - vibration dampers.
We collect the entire node in reverse order. Do the final broaching of the mounts when the jack is removed.
Video (click to play).
1. Replacing the support bearing of the Priors without removing the rack - not recommended, in this case, the installation of a new product will not occur correctly, which will affect the service life.
