In the design of each car, an element such as a suspension plays an important role. It is thanks to the suspension that the driver and passengers during the trip do not experience all the negativity from movement on the roads. The more complex the suspension on the car, the more comfortable the passengers and the driver feel. The Ulyanovsk-made SUV UAZ 3163 Patriot has both rear and front suspensions. You can learn more about the rear suspension from this material. Today we will pay attention to the design features of the front suspension of the UAZ 3163, and also consider what this device represents.
On the UAZ Patriot SUV, the front suspension is dependent and is presented in the form of the following devices:
The longitudinal rods and the transverse link are designed to ensure that the optional front axle is properly secured. The rods are directly attached to the front axle structure by means of non-separable silent blocks and brackets. The second end of the rod is fixed to the frame of the UAZ 3163 SUV by means of rubber hinges.
Two telescopic shock absorbers, which also serve to limit the suspension travel, play the main role in removing the vibrations of the vehicle. The rear is also equipped with two shock absorbers, but they are different from the front ones, therefore they are not interchangeable.
The steering knuckles have hubs on which the brake discs are located. The rotation of the hub is provided by two roller bearings on each side, which eventually deteriorate and require replacement. Bearing adjustment is carried out using a nut located on a trunnion with a locknut.
The front suspension of the UAZ 3163 Patriot SUV is subject to various negative factors if it is used for its intended purpose. Therefore, you can often hear extraneous sounds from under a moving car. At the first sign of a front suspension malfunction, it is important to troubleshoot immediately and remedy them if possible.
Checking the suspension on the UAZ Patriot SUV is carried out by carrying out the following actions:
The structural diagram of the front suspension is shown in the photo below.
The design of the front suspension of all vehicles is much more complex than the rear. This is primarily due to the fact that the front wheels are assigned the control function. Therefore, it is very important that the structure is always in good order and does not let you down on the way. To do this, periodic maintenance of the undercarriage should be carried out, even by placing the machine in an inspection pit and carrying out a visual inspection. If various types of malfunctions are identified, then only repair will help.
What is the repair of the front suspension of the UAZ 3163 SUV, we will consider further.
If on most passenger cars the front suspension structure is independent, then on the Patriot and many other SUVs it is dependent. To repair the suspension on the UAZ 3163 Patriot, the first step is to find out the cause of the malfunction. There can be many reasons, as you know, but frequent breakdowns are already known to the owners of this car.
Before repairing the suspension, you should carry out dismantling work, which consists of the following:
Depending on the malfunction, an appropriate repair of the unit or mechanism is carried out. Some devices need to be replaced and others can be repaired, for example, ball joints need to be replaced and shock absorbers are repaired. The springs sag over time, so in order not to replace them, special polyurethane spacers are installed.
VIDEO
Summing up, it is important to note that the UAZ Patriot suspension is a complex mechanism that is designed for off-road operation, but if it is planned to operate it in harsh conditions, then modernization of this device cannot be avoided. You can learn about the modernization of the front suspension from this material.
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The off-road vehicle UAZ 3163 Patriot was put into production at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant in 2005. It became the successor to the UAZ 3160 and UAZ 3162 Simbir, which appeared in 1997 and 2000, respectively. Its main difference from previous models was the use of a large number of imported parts.
UAZ Patriot is equipped with European steering, braking, heating and air conditioning systems. In addition, the car has a Dymos gearbox (gearbox) and comfortable seats manufactured by the South Korean corporation DAWNSCO.
An imported Iveco F1A diesel engine was installed on some cars, but later it was replaced by a domestic ZMZ 51432 engine, which meets higher environmental standards. All other parts, including the chassis, transfer case and axles, remained domestic.
Thanks to the modernization, UAZ repairs on their own began to be required much less often. Despite this, the need for regular maintenance of the Patriot remains, since it is very difficult to find a reliable UAZ car service.
Do-it-yourself regular maintenance of a UAZ SUV consists in checking and inspecting the mechanisms of the car, replacing defective parts at regular intervals. Diagnostics is necessary, since each unit and unit has its own service life. Timely maintenance of the UAZ 3163 allows you to identify malfunctions before they lead to sad consequences.
Maintenance machines
The manufacturer has established that the following diagnostic work must be carried out every 10,000 km.
Inspection of paintwork, glass and mirrors for cracks and corrosion.
Checking the operation of the hood and door locks, seat belts, power windows and ventilation hatch.
Checking the condition of the suspension, the angle of toe of the front wheels, the maximum angle of rotation of the wheels, the condition of the intermediate support and propeller shafts.
Wheel bearing adjustment.
Checking the backlash in the pivots, steering gear, steering rod joints, steering wheel backlash.
Inspection for tightness of gaskets and pipes of all hydraulic systems of the vehicle.
Diagnostics of the engine management system and anti-lock braking system.
Checking the operation of the air throttle actuator and the adsorber purge valve.
Measuring the level of antifreeze in the system, electrolyte in the battery, oil in the reservoir of the hydraulic booster, brake fluid in the reservoirs of the clutch and brake hydraulic drives.
Measuring the tension of the fan and alternator belts.
Listen for unusual engine and transmission knocks and noises.
Testing the operation of the generator, lighting and measuring devices.
Checking the brake pedal travel, the condition of the brake pads and discs, the effectiveness of the service and hand brakes.
Such maintenance is required every 20,000 km.
Inspection of the motor cushions.
Diagnostics of the cooling system, the condition of the radiator plug, the clearances in the bearings of the main gears of both axles.
Checking the condition of the contacts of all electrical systems.
Diagnostics of brake drums.
The lubrication control in the axles is carried out every 14,000 km, and the lubricant level in the gearbox and transfer case is checked after 200,000 km.
VIDEO
Maintenance of the UAZ 3163 Patriot vehicle consists in the timely replacement of consumables and scheduled preventive maintenance. This helps to extend the life of the vehicle without breakdowns.
Routine works that are carried out every 10,000 km.
Tightening the front and rear suspension to the frame, propeller shaft flanges to the transfer case and axles, intermediate support to the cross member, ball to the axle shafts, leading flanges to the hubs, steering knuckle arms and steering gear parts.
Tightening the attachments of the power unit, as well as its crankcase and clamps of all rubber hoses.
Balancing and rearranging wheels.
Draining water from gas tanks.
Cleaning and lubricating battery terminals, unclogging ventilation holes in plugs.
Cleaning spark plugs, adjusting the gap.
Replacing the engine oil.
Cleaning the bridge safety valves.
The following operations are carried out every 20,000 km.
Tightening of transmission, engine and body elements to the frame. For the first time, these actions need to be carried out after running the car.
Replacing the fuel filter.
Cleaning the inspection hole in the pump.
Replacing spark plugs
Change of transmission oil.
Adjusting the direction of headlights and foglights.
After passing every 30 00 km, such works are carried out.
Cleaning and flushing the crankcase ventilation system, replacing the filter element of the air filter.
Flushing of gas tanks and a strainer of an electric fuel pump (EBN).
Cleaning the engine lubrication system.
Changing the oil in the axles and hub bearings, tightening the bolts of the rear brake shields and front trunnions.
Replacement of EBS, injectors, idle speed regulator, pressure regulator, neutralizer, ignition coil, adsorber and all powertrain control sensors is carried out every 80,000 km. Cleaning the generator and starter from dirt, checking the condition of the brushes and the collector, replacing the brushes (recommended) are carried out after every 40,000 km.
Tightening of the crankshaft and alternator pulleys is carried out only after running in. Every 2 years, the brake fluid and oil in the hydraulic booster are replaced. Antifreeze is changed every 3 years.
Although the UAZ Patriot has a more modern interior than its predecessors, the following parts of this SUV still need constant lubrication.
Hinges and splines of cardan shafts. They must be lubricated every 10,000 km.
Tie rod joints, door locks and stoppers, bonnet hinges, doors and fuel filler flaps. They need to be lubricated every 20,000 km.
Steering column shaft bearings, as well as adjusting mechanisms and a handbrake cable. These components should be lubricated every 30,000 km.
Prevention is better than repair
Correct maintenance of the UAZ Patriot car requires knowledge of the regulatory data:
deflection of the radiator fan belt and power steering when pressed with a force of 4 kgf - from 10 to 15 mm;
deflection of the belt of the generator and pump when pressed with a force of 8 kgf - from 13 to 15 mm;
the gap between the electrodes of the spark plug is 0.7 mm;
normal free travel of the brake pedal - from 5 to 12 mm;
toe angles of the front wheels - 0 ° 3'04 "-0 ° 9'12";
the greatest angle of rotation of the front wheel - 31-32 °;
maximum imbalance of the wheel - 1000 g * cm;
air pressure in the front tires - 0.21 MPa;
the air pressure in the rear tires is 0.26-0.27 MPa.
It does not hurt to know the filling volumes:
engine cooling system - 12 l;
engine lubrication system - 7 l;
brake system - 0.56 l;
gearbox housing - 2.5 l;
transfer case crankcase - 0.8 l;
front axle housing - 1.5 l;
rear axle housing - 1.4 l;
power steering system - 0.91 l;
clutch hydraulic drive - 0.18 l;
windshield washer reservoir - 5 l;
the total volume of fuel in gas tanks is 72 liters.
Timely maintenance and regular preventive maintenance of the UAZ Patriot with your own hands will allow you to avoid sudden breakdowns on the way and postpone the first overhaul of the car.
The front suspension of the UAZ-Patriot (UAZ-3163) vehicle consists of two springs, an anti-roll bar, two gas-filled telescopic shock absorbers and a guide vane: two longitudinal rods 15 and a lateral rod 22 (Fig. 1).
The suspension guide device ensures correct axle alignment and affects the handling, stability and braking performance of the vehicle.
The longitudinal rods are connected to the front axle by means of non-separable rubber-metal hinges 4 and brackets 16, and to the frame through support bushings 12 and brackets 9.
The transverse link 22 is connected through rubber-metal hinges 21 with the axle and frame brackets.
Rice. 1. Front suspension UAZ-Patriot (UAZ-3163)
1 - spring cushion; 2, 17 - spring brackets; 3 - shock absorber; 4, 21 - rubber-metal hinges; 5, 10 - nuts; 6 - stepladders; 7 - stabilizer cushion; 8 - pillows; 9, 16 - longitudinal bar brackets; 11 - washer; 12 - support rubber sleeves; 13 - stabilizer rack bracket; 14 - stabilizer bar; 15 - longitudinal bar; 18 -spring; 19 - compression buffer; 20.23 - transverse rod brackets; 22 - transverse thrust; 24 - shock absorber bracket; 25 - pillow holders; 26 - stabilizer rack
The maximum travel of the UAZ-Patriot suspension upward is limited by the buffer 19. The buffer simultaneously serves as an additional elastic element (spring).
To damp vertical vibrations, there are two telescopic shock absorbers 3. In addition, the shock absorbers are the limiters of the suspension downward travel.
The rear suspension of the car UAZ-Patriot, UAZ-3163 (Fig. 2) consists of two springs (3 sheets) and shock absorbers located on the outside of the frame.
The maximum travel of the bridge upward is limited by rubber buffers 17. The spring is attached to the bridge using step-ladders 6, pad 7 of step-ladders, pad 12 and pad 5.
Rice. 2. Rear suspension UAZ-Patriot (UAZ-3163)
1.11 - shock absorber brackets; 2 -spring; 3 - shock absorber; 4 frame; 5 - overlay; 6 - stepladder; 7 - lining of ladders; 8 - earring bracket; 9, 13 - interleaf gaskets; 10 - step-ladder nut; 12 - spring lining; 14-axis; 15 - rubber-metal hinge; 16 - axle nut; 17 - buffer; 18 - inner earring cheek; 19 - fingers; 20 - rubber sleeve; 21 - finger nuts; 22 - outer cheek of earrings
The front end of the spring is mounted on a fixed axle 14 by means of rubber-metal hinges 15.
The rear end is pivotally mounted on the frame by means of an earring, rubber bushings 20 and rubber-metal hinges 15. Front and rear shock absorbers are not interchangeable.
Dismantling the front spring suspension UAZ-Patriot
Replacing springs 18 (see Fig. 1), spring cushions 1 and spring suspension buffers UAZ-Patriot:
- Disconnect the lower shock absorber eyes 3 from the front axle brackets 24 by unscrewing the nuts and removing the bolts.
- Raise and place the front of the vehicle on the stand.
- Remove the springs 18 and vibration dampers I.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the buffers 19.
- Assemble in the reverse order. Replaceable springs must be of the same group.
If it is impossible to remove or insert the spring, it is necessary to additionally disconnect one of the ends of the transverse link.
Replacement of rubber-metal hinges 4, support bushings 12, longitudinal rods 15 and rubber pads 1, pillows 8 of the stabilizer bar 14, as well as the stabilizer struts 26:
- Securely secure the vehicle against unintentional movement.
- Disconnect the lower shock absorber eyes from the brackets 24 by unscrewing the nuts and removing the bolts.
- Unscrew the nuts 5 and knock out the bolts securing the longitudinal rod to the axle.
- Unscrew and unscrew the nuts 10.
- Unscrew the nuts of the ladders 6 securing the stabilizer to the bar.
- Remove the longitudinal rods by pulling the rear end of the rod out of the bracket hole on the frame.
- Unscrew the nuts of the stabilizer link.
- Replace rubber-metal hinges 4. The hinges are replaced using special mandrels on the pressing equipment.
- When pressing in the rubber-metal hinges, place the mandrel on the outer metal bushing. All UAZ-Patriot suspension joints should be replaced at the same time.
- Remove the pillows 7 from the stabilizer and put on new ones.
- Replace the cushions 8 of the stabilizer post and fix the stabilizer post 26 to the bracket 13, with the flattened in the direction of the rod 14.
- Tighten the nuts of the stabilizer post until the hole for the cotter pin in the post aligns with the holes in the nut.
- Put the washer and support rubber bushing 12 on the rear end of the rod 15, insert the rod into the hole in the bracket 9, put on the second rubber bushing 12 and washer 11, tighten the nut 10.
- Insert the front end of the rod into the bracket 16, install new bolts and tighten the nuts 5.
- Install the second shaft in the same way.
- Put the car on wheels.
- Tighten nuts 5 to 140-160 Nm (14-16 kg / cm). Tighten nuts 10 up to the stop and cotter them.
- Install the ladders 6 securing the stabilizer to the bar and tighten the nuts of the ladders.
- Connect the lower shock absorber eyes to the brackets 24 by inserting the bolts and tightening the nuts.
Replacing the lateral rods or rubber-metal suspension joints of the UAZ-Patriot:
- Unscrew the nuts securing the transverse link 22 to the axle and frame and remove the bolts.
- Replace the joints, similar to the longitudinal bar joints.
- Install the tie rod and secure it using new bolts if necessary.
- Tighten the nuts with a torque of 140-160 Nm (14-16 kg / cm).
Removal, disassembly and assembly of the rear suspension UAZ-Patriot
Remove the rear suspension spring of the UAZ-Patriot, UAZ-3163 in the following order:
- Unscrew the nuts 10 (see Fig. 2) of the ladders 6 of the springs, remove the ladders, pad 7 and pad 5.
- Lift and place the rear of the car on a stand so that the springs are unloaded and the wheels touch the surface on which the car is installed.
- Unscrew the bracket fastening bolts 8.
- Unscrew the nut 16 of the axle 14 of the spring lug.
- Remove the spring 2 and disassemble the shackle with rubber-metal hinges 15 and rubber bushings 20.
- Replace worn parts if necessary.
Install the UAZ-Patriot rear suspension spring in the reverse order. When installing the springs, the folded ears on the first two sheets should be facing forward.
The final tightening of the spring ladder nuts, nuts 16 and 21 with loaded springs.
Dismantle the rear suspension spring of the UAZ-Patriot in the following order:
- Fasten the spring in a vise.
- Unscrew the nuts and take out the bolts of the spring clamps.
- Unscrew the nut of the center bolt and disassemble the spring.
After disassembling, thoroughly clean the sheets of dirt, rinse in kerosene, replace the broken sheets.
Assemble the spring in the reverse order, taking into account the following:
- Each time the leaf spring is disassembled, replace the rubber-metal hinges and inter-sheet gaskets. Replacement of hinges is carried out using special mandrels on pressing equipment.
- When pressing in rubber-metal hinges, place the mandrel on the outer metal bushing. Replace all joints at the same time.
- Rivet the clamps securely to the sheets, the ends of the rivets of the clamps should not protrude above the surface of the sheets.
- Clamps after assembling the spring must not impede the free movement of the sheets during operation.
The front suspension of the UAZ Patriot car is dependent, consists of two ball pins on each side, two longitudinal rods, one lateral rod, coil springs, hydraulic telescopic shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar.
The longitudinal rods and transverse link are the front suspension guides that ensure the front axle is properly locked, which in turn affects the vehicle's handling, stability and braking performance.
The longitudinal rods are connected to the front axle by means of non-separable rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) and brackets, and to the frame by means of a bracket through rubber hinges.
The maximum upward travel of the suspension is limited by a rubber buffer.
Two telescopic shock absorbers are designed to damp the vibrations of the car's suspension, which also serve to limit the suspension downward travel.
The shock absorbers of the front and rear suspensions are not interchangeable, since in the compressed state the front shock absorber is shorter than the rear one.
Hubs 10 are installed on the pins of the steering knuckles (Fig. 2).
Each hub rotates on two tapered roller bearings.
A brake disc is installed on the hub. On the side of the brake shield, the hub is sealed with an oil seal, and on the outside - with a gasket with a wheel shut-off clutch.
The tightening of the hub bearings is adjusted with a nut, which is fixed on the trunnion with a lock washer with a lock nut.
When extraneous knocks appear in the suspension of a moving car, it is necessary to immediately establish their source, regardless of whether it is a constant knock or appears only when driving through irregularities.
Suspension faults can lead to serious accidents.
It is better to check the condition of the suspension on a car installed on an overpass, inspection ditch or lift, and if this is not possible, you can do this work, albeit with less convenience, on a free flat area.
Begin your inspection by looking closely at the condition of the suspension components.
1. Check the condition of the rubber-metal suspension joints, rubber bushings of the stabilizer bar and the reliability of their brackets.
2. Carefully inspect the suspension arms. Cracks and mechanical damage to the levers are unacceptable.
3. Inspect the front and rear shock absorber upper and lower mount bushings. Replace bushings with torn, cracked, or extruded rubber on one side.
The pivot assembly of the UAZ Patriot car is a kind of large "hinge" that provides one of the degrees of freedom for the front wheels of the car, which is necessary for its control, that is, for operation. Usually, when the pivots are worn, knocking problems are possible, which is associated with the appearance of a backlash between the mating parts. Also, backlash in the pivots is possible in case of damage, from strong blows, or with the wrong selection of parts during repair.
- Flat screwdriver, - Pliers, Collar wrench on: 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24, - A set of heads for: 8, 10, 14, 19, 24, 27, - Special head for 19 (sizes), - Pivot key (drawing), - Hammer, - Copper hammer or soft mandrel, - Wooden block, - Assembler, - Bench vise (if not available, it is allowed to fix the ball joint rotated 90 degrees in the flange of the axle shaft housing), - Vernier caliper with a depth gauge (Columbus), Tap М36 × 2 (needed only in case of damage to the threads in the steering knuckle housing when turning the expanding sleeve), Torque wrench up to 30 kgf * m
The number of spare parts is given for the repair of pivot assemblies on both sides of the front axle of the machine.
- Cuff 32 × 50-10 with spring assembly, 2 pcs. (cat. No. 3741-2304071-01)., - Steering knuckle cuff, 2 pcs. (cat. No. 3160-2304052), - Ring SP 134-120-5, 2 pcs. (cat. No. 3160-2304055), - Insert (plastic or bronze), 4 pcs. (cat. No. 3160-2304023 or 3160-2304023 bronze), - Bolt Ml0x1x30 special, 2-3 pcs. (this is due to the fact that during dismantling they can be broken) (cat. No. 290784-P29), - Grease SHRUS-4M - 0.2 kg and Litol-24 - 1 kg, King pin, 4 pcs. (cat. No. 3160-2304019 or 3160-2304019 modernized with a grease nipple), - Thrust washer of the steering knuckle, 4 pcs. (cat. No. 3741-2304024), - Gasket for the swing arm (cat. No. 3160-2304029), 1 pc., - Gasket under the pivot pad (cat. No. 3160-2304028), 3 pcs., - Gasket for ball bearing (cat. No. 31-0121238), 2 pcs., - Adjustable cotter pins 3.2x25 (cat. No. 258040-P29) steering nuts, 4 pcs.
Unscrew with a screwdriver and unscrew the М14x1.5 nut fastening the bipod thrust pin to the steering knuckle lever with a 22 key and remove the bipod thrust.
... bipod shown mounted on the bridge
Diagram for removing the brake mechanism of an UAZ with disc brakes Unscrew the bolts securing the brake mechanisms to the steering knuckle body with a special “19” head and remove them.
We unscrew the grease nipples with the pivots with a key “for 8”, if any.
We unscrew the M16x1.5 nut with a flange from the kingpin with a “24” head
On the steering knuckle lever, turn off the four M12x1.25 nuts securing the steering knuckle with a 19-inch head
and take out the expanding sleeves. The bushings can stick together, so hit the end of the knuckle arm with a few hammer blows and then remove it.
We unscrew the remaining M16x1.5 nuts with a flange with a “24” head and remove the cover plate with a gasket.
We apply a few sharp blows to the pivots, through a copper spacer or a copper hammer to remove the tightness between the pivot and the clamping sleeve.
Using a pivot wrench and a “27” head, turn the clamping sleeve a few turns.
Using a wrench or a “14” head, unscrew five M10x1x30 bolts of special fastening of the ball joint to the flange of the axle shaft housing. Remove the stop of the rotation limiter.
Tapping with a hammer through a wooden block, we separate the flanges so that the mounting blade passes into the connector.
Using a mounting spade, trying not to damage the cardboard gasket, we squeeze and finally disconnect the flanges and remove the steering knuckle.
We clamp in the yews of the locksmiths the steering knuckle with the axle shaft for the control rod
We measure the protrusion of the stop bolt with a caliper and write down
Unscrew the M10x1x16 bolt with the “14” wrench.
With a “17” wrench we loosen the lock nut tightening and with a “12” wrench we unscrew the stop bolt
Removing the steering knuckle cuff
Using the “10” head, unscrew the remaining eight M6x12 bolts securing the steering knuckle cuff and remove it
Next, remove the felt ring (SP134-12-5 ring) and the steering knuckle cuff
Removing the ball joint and CV joint
Using a pivot wrench with a “27” head, unscrew the clamping sleeves and take out the pivot
Remembering (marking - by punching or paint) the orientation of the ball joint in the steering knuckle, take it out and remove it from the axle shaft
Take out the axle shaft with a hinge of equal angular velocities from the steering knuckle
We remove from the ball joint the old liners and semiaxis cuffs (cuff 32 × 50-10 with spring assembly). Very often, when using low-quality pivot wrenches, the thread in the steering knuckle housing under the clamping sleeve is damaged. If the thread is damaged, it must be corrected with an М36 × 2 tap
We wash all parts in kerosene or diesel fuel and inspect them. Cracks, scoring and other damage are not allowed on the parts
Cuff 32 × 50-10 with spring assembly, 2 pcs .; Inserts (plastic or bronze), 4 pcs .; Ball bearing gasket (cat. No. 31-0121238), 2 pcs .; SHRUS-4M; Cold welding; We install a new cuff of the semiaxis in the ball joint. The orientation of the cuff is carried out along the sealing spring - it must stand on the side of the main gear reducer (that is, during installation, the spring must “look” at you). We install the gasket on the end of the ball joint.
In cases where there is slight wear or deformation of the pivot support along the inner hemisphere, it is allowed to use composite materials to fill the damaged areas. In this case, it is necessary to install the pins and liners without waiting for the polymerization of the composition.
We install new liners (plastic or bronze) in the bearings of the pivot on the ball joint and apply the SHRUS-4M grease to the inner surface of the liners.
Steering knuckle assembly
We install new thrust washers of the steering knuckle joint in the ball joint and the steering knuckle housing.
Before assembly, on the inner surfaces of the steering knuckle body and the ball joint, we apply Litol-24 grease, about 0.5 kg
and insert a semi-axle with a hinge of equal angular velocities, on which SHRUS-4M is applied up to 100 grams.
We put a ball joint on the semi-axle, while making sure its orientation is correct.
The bottom of the ball joint is determined very simply: there are three holes on the flange on the bottom side, and two on the top. We recommend that you notice the orientation of the steering knuckle housings during disassembly, for example, by punching or paint. We draw your attention to this, since the knot is assembled in any combinations and it is easy to make a mistake.
Lubricate the tapered surface and thread of the clamping sleeve, lubricate the friction surfaces of the pivot with SHRUS-4M grease
We insert the pins into the threaded holes of the steering knuckle body and wrap the clamping sleeves until the pins stop in the supports. If you installed pivots with a channel for lubrication, then for further work you need to unscrew the grease nipples from them with a key “8”
The steering knuckle body is centered relative to the ball joint with an accuracy of 0.2 mm from the ends of the knuckle body overlaps using a pivot wrench with a “27” head
1 - Trunnion; 2 - the body of the rotary fist; 3 - Expanding sleeve; 4 - Kingpin; 5 - Insert; 6 - Hinge of equal angular velocities; 7 - Ball support; A and B - Controlled dimensions, A = B
Alternately increasing the torque by 2-3 kgf * m, using a torque wrench (periodically checking the symmetry relative to the ends, the deviation should not exceed 0.2 mm), tighten the clamping sleeves with a final torque of 20-25 kgf * m. With a successive increase in the torque of the clamping sleeve each time, hit with a hammer along the axis of the pins on both sides through a soft arbor. It is necessary to ensure the accuracy of the symmetry of the installation of the ball joint of 0.2 mm, relative to the ends of the beads of the steering knuckle body. Measure with a caliper. This centering is necessary for the correct operation of the axle shaft seals and to reduce the load on the constant velocity joints. We draw your attention - after tightening the clamping sleeves with a force of 25 kgf * m, the ball bearing relative to the steering knuckle body rotates very tightly, as it should be. The turning force is adjusted separately - by tightening the pivot nuts. Installing the yoke and cuff of the steering knuckle We stuff Litol-24 into the cavity between the ball joint and the steering knuckle housing.
Then we install the steering knuckle cuff ..
Install the felt ring (SP134-12-5 ring), which must be pre-soaked with machine oil.
Install the steering knuckle cuff clip. Using the “10” head, screw it onto eight M6x12 bolts.We screw in the stop bolt-stop with a lock nut, set the previously measured height on the caliper and fix it with a 17 key and a 12 key. Tighten the M10x1x16 bolt with a 14 key. Install the gasket, pad and screw on the M16x1.5 nut with a flange on the kingpin.
We install the gasket and the steering knuckle lever, the expanding bushings and screw them onto four Ml2x1.25 nuts using the “19” head and screw the M16x1.5 nut with a flange onto the pivot. This photo shows a variant of the steering knuckle lever for UAZ-374195 vehicles and its modifications
Installing a steering knuckle with a semiaxis We screw the steering knuckle with the semi-axle to the flange of the semi-axle casing by five special bolts M10x1x30, on two of them, having put on them beforehand, they were limited to turning, with a key “14” until it stops. Attention, after driving 200-500 kilometers, repeat the tightening of the indicated five special bolts M10x1x30
Ball joint adjustment
Pre-tighten the nuts M16x1.5 with a flange head “24” with a torque of 5 kgf * m.
The torque of rotation of the ball joint in any direction relative to the common axis of the pins should be within 1.0 - 2.5 kgf * m, i.e. grasping the steering knuckle housing with your hands, you should freely rotate it around the axis. If this does not happen, tighten the M16x1.5 nuts with a flange on both sides until the required result is achieved. The maximum tightening force is 15 kgf * m.
... in the reverse order of removal, see above
We fasten the grease nipples (if provided by the design) to the king pin with a key “for 8”. We fasten the brakes mountings to the steering knuckle body with a special “19” head on the bolts.
Install the steering linkage rod, tighten the pins with a “22” wrench and cotter the M14x1.5 nut. Reusing old cotter pins is not recommended. Install the bipod pull rod to the steering knuckle lever, tighten the fingers with a M14x1.5 nut with a “22” wrench and cotter it.
Install the wheel. Attention! Before starting to drive the car after completing the repair, press the brake pedal several times in order to press the pads of the front calipers to the brake discs.
The next film is “Feel the Difference”?
As always, everything is beautiful !! Considering the conditions under which the car is operated, we can conclude that the patriot is sturdy. Mitsubishi's father Delica 94g, after each season of operation in the fields, the hodovka is many times more ushatane and repairs are not cheap enough, unfortunately ((, but I have to repair the whole thing. Well, the salt blocks are under pressure like clockwork, but Alexey, as always, did it Russian ingenuity)) Respect for that. I'm waiting for a new video of how the suspension behaves after repair.
Alexey, what size of tires do you have, what kind of lift, and did you do anything with lowering in the distributor box, gearboxes?
Alexey, go on a business trip to the factory and show your video :)
Hello Alexey. I all dream about Patrick. But Yuzayu while Renault Megan 2. himself went through the suspension. I made a small press, from a channel for 100 and a jack for 20 tons, bought on ferrous metal and moved with my own hand. You could use one too. I wish you success in everything. We are waiting for a new video.
Alexey thanks for the movie! I am your fan, your (plus or minus) become a catch phrase, I am not yet a patrick owner, but I hope to get it by the new year. Could you make a film about Patrick's body, how is it painted and if rusty, and did you do anticorrosive?
Alexey, maybe it's better to put self-locking nuts instead of growers? How long will the welded washers last when the holes in them also become oval?
Thank you, Alexey! Useful video.
Thanks about the tips, I did not know that there are modernized ones, otherwise I had to modify it with a file after the purchase, there are a lot of burrs.
The bent stabilizer does not perform its functions due to geometry violation
Pressing out and pressing in silent blocks using ordinary vise :)
Hi Aleksey! I watch your videos with interest. There is a lot of good in them.Regarding the replacement of the silencers - we changed them like this - we heated the levers a little with a blowtorch (not so as to release the metal, just about 100 degrees) and cooled the silencers with a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher - after that they can be inserted manually without a knob. Then the temperatures return to normal and everything rises as it should.
Something I missed the moment - where did the new silent block come from? What was it made of?
Interestingly, in which models of SUVs the “ears” are not an integral part of the bridges, so that you can not do welding, but simply replace the “ears”? And will such a collapsible design be more reliable?
If in the washer welded to the “ear” after a certain mileage there is also a choice of metal, so that the round hole becomes oblong - can this washer be boiled and a new normal one can be welded? Or is welding “forever”?
thanks for the film. nuts with a plastic rim inside do not need grovers. I have a 2006 car. steering tips from gas-21 and after each puddle, you need to inject an oiler for this.
Alexey, if you don’t find longer bolts, then drill your own and onto the cotter pins
And if now you would return to the point when you bought the Patriot (having experience in operating and repairing it) - what would you do? In the same way, would you buy a Patriot (with all its “sores”) and also repair it and improve its design? Or would you consider a used SUV like Toyota Land Cruiser or Nissan Patrol (which are considered super mega-reliable with large resources for individual units)?
Lech is handsome, we must take patrick
I would try to freeze the sleeves in the freezer! I think the process of installing them would be more enjoyable!
Huge respect for the video! I pressed out the silent blocks using a vise. having conjured a little before this with improvised tools.
Protect the steering rods. Great videos! Thank you!
Alexey, are you going to hike with school # 42 this year? :)
I watch all your videos, and now a month ago, at the beginning of June, after a video about whether it is worth buying an UAZ and who nevertheless bought a UAZ Patriot 2.7 of 2012 in an anniversary series with a mileage of 18500 km for 490 thousand. Lucky with the purchase. Found in Temp auto in trade in Borodinskaya (where you bought Patriot Vova) There is also a Kalina2 127 motor and in general, my cars complement each other. The UAZ is a good car and after driving 2100 km in a month, I replaced only oils and fluids according to the regulations, I never regretted the purchase, there have already been field trips and relatively long trips, I don’t know what could be passable and more convenient, more representative and generally cooler than the UAZ Patriot ... Consumption of 11.4 92nd gasoline comes out, and Kalina eats 7.1, but the difference in the size of the cabin and in overall dimensions is colossal. Buy UAZ Patriot everyone who doubts. I spent a year gathering courage, collecting information on the car for a long time. I saw Hunter in an organization with a real mileage of 650 thousand km and he is more than alive, everything works. The only thing that is annoying is the slurred clutch operation, and if the pedal is not released very smoothly, knocks appear in the transmission.
... Clutch - if you press or release the clutch pedal, there is a knock in the transmission in the area of the rear axle. I try to work smoothly, but sometimes it still works like a car. What can be done?
Alexey, LOCKSOR'S VISES are great help in pressing in silent blocks. about welding and the camera (do not point the camera in the direction of the arc and in the direction of the sun) - you will burn the matrix
The anti-roll bar called “jet thrust” 😉 Well, nothing, just the same, as always, an interesting video!
Yes, it’s not in vain that I remembered about you - I didn’t disappoint. Laughed, in the morning the mood rose. Continue to freak out. As always, in the comments, schoolchildren think you are the god of the Oise - there are the same ones.
On one of the vidos I asked what breaks after pokatushek and you said that it does not break :)
The stabilizer is called jet thrust. Learn materiel uncle ..)))
Everything is cool, but it is unlikely that the service station will weld washers !? Most likely, they will not mess with them and assemble them as they are. No wonder they say: "if you want to do well, do it yourself!" And so the video is excellent, I am already thinking of downloading all your video tutorials, since I myself drive a Patriot, it will come in handy someday!
+ vb2322 Yes, you are a dumbass. Honor yourself, try to analyze your writing with your fucking brain. You think you're the smartest, the coolest. Look. And in fact, you are banned on the top auto resource of the Russian Internet. In fact, normal guys drive you in the comments. And you are dumb. Be smart further, we will laugh, and I allow)
my jet thrust on the stump bent 90 degrees.
the stabilizer took the desired shape, snapped into place ;-)
vypresovat it when vypresovayut and not knock out! big vise did not come up with you there ?? they seem to be easier.
You shouldn't think so about the tie rod end. Collapsible is much better than what you showed. Believe me, I've been on the UAZ for about 10 years, just not on such shit as a patriot. And the advantages of these tips are great, I haven't changed them for 7 years, I just use a syringe. If it looses, you can tighten the screw. A non-collapsible shit is complete. In them, you cannot change the lubricant, nor crackers when worn out, but believe the water in the tip is going to the car. And I look at this patriot with shit by shit, even on the frame, and then they saved it.
Steel Balls Man! Hammer!
you have a lot of threads on the bolt, this is not correct!
Hello! Please tell us about the UAZ PATRIOT DIESEL.
Thank you. Very interesting and helpful.
Alexey, a lot of time has passed since this episode came out. What can you say about polyurethane in your harness? not gouged out what? does it creak? etc. I am thinking to myself in Patrick the entire front suspension on polyurethane to translate
Thanks for the video, everything is interesting! Please tell me how much you need to pull the attachments of the levers (clubs) to the frame through the pillows (where the cotter pins are) ?? And then on a new one, these nuts are easy to completely stretch.
The holes are very badly broken, the broaches were not made in time.
Video (click to play).
Here it is already clear without comment that polyurethane is junk. Great video