DIY VAZ 2101 front suspension repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2101 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Roads in Russia have a “perfect” surface and therefore cars require frequent replacement of suspension elements. Often, not someone even picks up the tool due to one malfunction, but waits until the suspension goes into complete malfunction. Therefore, I advise you to read the manual for replacing the front suspension of the VAZ 2101 with your own hands.

Removing and installing front suspension

1. Place the vehicle on a lift or a viewing ditch; holding the end of the rod by the flats with the key А.57070, disconnect the upper end of the shock absorber and remove the front wheels.

2. Having unbend the locking plates, unscrew the bolts securing the caliper to the bracket. Move the caliper to the side and secure it so that it does not hang from the hoses. Remove the shock absorbers with brackets.

3. Disconnect the ends of the anti-roll bar from the lower suspension arms.

4. Using a puller 67.7801.9513, press out the fingers from the holes of the levers and take the steering rods to the side.

5. Insert screw 2, special tools 67.7828.9504, into the hole of the upper support of the suspension spring, then slide the support plate 3 onto the spring coil 1 and screw 2 from below and fix it to the spring with a clamp. Screw the nut onto the screw from below so that the nut retainer goes into the seat of the plate 3. Turning screw 2 with a wrench, compress the suspension spring until the suspension arms are completely unloaded.

6. Remove the upper arm shaft and disconnect it from the body. Disconnect the lower arm axle from the cross member and remove the suspension assembly from the vehicle.

7. Remove the spring by smoothly relieving it, remove the tool and repeat the operations for the other suspension unit.

Video (click to play).

ATTENTION: When removing the suspension assemblies, it is necessary to note the number and location of washers between the axis of the lower arm and the cross member, as well as adjusting plates between the cross member and the body side members, so that, when installing the assemblies, put these washers and plates in their original place.

8. Remove the engine splash shield and stabilizer bar.

9. Supporting the engine with A.70526 traverse or hoist, remove the cross member.

10. Install the components and components of the suspension in the reverse order of removal. Install the springs on the front and rear suspensions of the same group (group A is marked with yellow paint, and the springs of group B - green). In exceptional cases, it is allowed to install springs of group A on the front suspension, and springs of group B on the rear. If springs of group B are installed on the front suspension, then install springs of the same group on the rear suspension.

11. To prevent incorrect distribution of forces in the rubber-metal hinges, tightening the nuts and axles of the levers must be done in the following order:

- place the car on a level surface and place the wheels parallel to the car's axis;
- load the car with a load of 320 kg (four people + 40 kg in the trunk);
- in these conditions, using a torque wrench, tighten the nuts securing the axles of the upper and then the lower levers and the nuts securing the axles of the lower lever to the cross member.

12. Check and adjust the front wheel alignment angles.

Everything is quite simple, like replacing the VAZ 2101 lamps, the main thing is to adhere to the manual and everything will be fine.

The presence of a domestic car teaches its owner the skills of a car mechanic. The suspension in a VAZ car is one of the components that often requires attention due to the quality of roads and spare parts.

The front suspension is a classic independent, consisting of an upper arm. A shock absorber and springs are located between the levers. The lower arms are interconnected with a stabilizer bar.At the rear, a continuous axle is attached to the body with 5 reaction rods, which prevent the axle from transverse and longitudinal movement. There are two cups on the bridge stocking, on which coil springs are placed. The upper part of the shock absorber is attached to the underbody and the lower part to the axle.

The most common breakdown is pulling out the lower ball joint. Due to the design feature, with improper care of the front suspension, the ball joint pulls out when it falls into a deep hole or on bumps. Since the design of the VAZ 2101-2107 suspension is archaic, apart from malfunctions of the lower ball joints, there are no more problems in it.

For a long service life of the undercarriage, it will need to be overhauled with the replacement of the following parts:

silent blocks of the front levers, as well as the axis of the levers;
ball bearings;
front and rear shock absorbers;
front and rear springs with pillows;
front stabilizer bushings;
rear axle jet rods;
steering pendulum;
steering linkage.

Concerning the manufacturers. The TREC ball joints have shown their best side. For the "classic", a set of reinforced ball joints is produced, the installation of which significantly reduces the risk of the support breaking off the lever. Steering linkage of the same Sport modification firm. The trapezoid pins are made of the best material, and the anthers are highly resistant to aggressive environments.

Silent blocks and stabilizer bushings show themselves well from "Savi", with proper installation they "run" for a long time.

Springs and rods of the "Belmag" company show themselves from the best side in terms of price and quality.

The choice of shock absorbers is wide. If funds permit, I recommend purchasing gas oil from Hola or Kayaba. The original VIS oil shock absorbers show themselves well. The maximum cost of the above parts is $ 250. If you wish, you can invest in $ 150.

Repair tool and material:

ball joint puller;
vice;
a set of wrenches and ratchets with heads;
grease for CV joints;
springs tie.

Since in our case the overhaul of the undercarriage consists in replacing all parts, the levers are subject to inspection, which need to be changed only if there is a crack.

To repair the suspension, the car must be placed on stops or stumps, if it is possible to put the car on a lift, then the repair process will be faster. Let's start with the front suspension. The first step is to remove the anti-roll bar. In order to remove the ball joints without any problems, the pin nuts should be ripped off and unscrewed when the suspension is loaded. Then we hang out the suspension and install the puller between the fingers of the upper and lower support. The puller allows you to squeeze the finger out of the fist, since it is impossible to crawl with a wrench because of the steering arm. When the fingers of the ball joints freely "walk" in the trunnion, remove the tip of the steering gear, then unscrew the support nuts and unscrew the shock absorber from the engine compartment and the lower arm. Now, gradually loosening the jack, unclench the spring.

The front suspension arms are attached through the axles. The lower axle is secured with two nuts, and the upper axle is a long bolt and nut. After dismantling the levers, using a vice and a clip, we press out the silent blocks and remove the ball bearings, which are attached with 3 bolts.

In the yew we press in new silent blocks, pre-lubricate the outer part with grease or soap. Before installing the ball joints, remove the boot from them and fill the grease under the finger, thereby extending the service life, this also applies to the steering linkage. The fingers need to be well designed by hand.

First, we put the upper levers, then substituting the spring, install the lower lever and press it with a jack to compress the spring. We put a new support under the spring. Installation is carried out in the reverse order. Please note that the final tightening of the levers should be done only in the working (loaded) state of the silent blocks.Next, attach the trapezoid tip to the trunnion and put the stabilizer using new rubber bands.

Important! Before installing the shock absorbers, they must be manually pumped!

To work on the rear suspension, you need to hang out the axle and install supports under it. First, remove the shock absorbers, for this you need to turn the lower and upper mounting bolts. You will need a puller to remove the spring. Remove the rear axle rods with a key and a ratchet. Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Important! To mount a new set of reaction rods, you must purchase a mounting kit (bolts and nuts).

After we have installed the parts on the car, we lower it to the ground. Two people must sit in the car to tighten them in the working position. After 500 km, pull the bolted connections. It is recommended to check the front hub bearings and, if necessary, make adjustments by adjusting the tapered bearing with a nut.

If you can purchase expensive components, the chassis can be improved as follows:

install the steering gear bracket;
front glass strut;
rear suspension anti-roll bar;
maintenance-free front suspension hub based on VAZ 2108;
jet rods with adjustment.

It has been proven that no matter how they scolded the domestic classics, the correct approach, regular maintenance and the installation of high-quality spare parts will increase the reliability of your car many times over.

History reference.

From 1970 to the present, AVTOVAZ has produced over 25 million vehicles, of which almost three million are VAZ-2101 vehicles. The production of these cars falls on the seventies - eighties.

Vaz-2101 is a rear-wheel drive sedan in demand in the automotive market, which is the discoverer of all rear-wheel drive models of Avtovaz. The car was produced with sedan and station wagon bodies. The vehicles that were blown out in the Soviet Union had a different body shape, rear braking system, and front and rear suspensions. The car was equipped with an in-line eight-valve four-cylinder engine with a volume of 1.2 liters (64 hp) and 1.3 liters (70 hp). The power system is a carburetor.

Front suspension of the car.

The chassis of the VAZ-2101 consists of a front suspension in the form of a double wishbone and a rear suspension, which is a coil spring, front and rear brakes, an anti-slip system. Tires and rims are standard.

The front suspension of the VAZ-2101 is an independent suspension, which consists of a guide device, elastic elements and shock absorbers. The suspension guide device causes the wheels to move relative to the body and also generates power transmission from the wheel to the body. The main elements of the guiding device are levers located at the top and bottom and a pivot device pivotally connected to them. The suspension is based on a telescopic hydraulic shock absorber strut.

The components of the front suspension are the telescopic strut, the steering knuckle, the brake disc, the ball joints of the levers, the protective cover for the hinge and the cover for the telescopic strut.

The basis of the front suspension strut of a VAZ car is a body with a hydraulic telescopic shock absorber built into it, as well as a coil spring in the form of a cylinder and an upper strut support. The steering knuckle, arm and lower spring seat are attached with brackets.

The connecting link between the wheels and the car body is the front and rear suspensions of the car, with the help of which forces are transmitted to the body, which act on the wheels. The elements that are included in the suspension soften overloads, reduce body vibrations and ensure a uniform and smooth ride of the Zhiguli.

Elements that mitigate overloads include a reversing device, elastic components, springs and a lateral resistance regulator.The front suspension guide determines the connection between the wheel and the road surface on which the vehicle is traveling and transfers the forces from the wheel to the body. This device includes the upper and lower suspension arms and a swivel device connected by hinges. The upper arm is connected by an axle to the front end of the body with the support of the hinges.

The lugs of the upper arm are fitted with rubber-metal hinges, which consist of a rubber bushing. It is placed between the inner and outer metal bushing with great interference.

The front suspension of the machine is located on two wishbones on each side, with coil springs in the form of a cylinder. The VAZ suspension is equipped with a telescopic shock absorber and an anti-roll bar.

To remove the front suspension of the VAZ-2101, it is necessary to carry out a number of technical operations. The car should be installed on a lift or on an inspection pit. Disconnect the upper end of the shock absorber and remove the front wheels. Remove shock absorbers with brackets.

Disconnect the ends of the anti-roll bar and the lower suspension arms.
The upper arm pivot is disconnected from the body and the lower arm pivot from the cross member. The suspension assembly is carefully removed from the vehicle. The spring is smoothly removed. It must be remembered that when removing the suspension assemblies, the adjusting plates need to make a mark of their location and number in order to install them later in their original place.

Suspension repair.

Repair of all components of the front suspension of the VAZ-2101 is carried out by replacing parts unusable. Do not repair the steering. Steering rods, steering knuckles, ball joints of the levers must be replaced if they are unusable.

Possible malfunctions of the VAZ-2101 front suspension may be: noise and knocking in the suspension when the vehicle is moving. If fluid leaks from the rear suspension shock absorber, it is necessary to replace the worn or damaged oil seal, ring and rod.

Attention should be paid to the resistance of the rear shock absorber during recoil travel, as well as the resistance of the rear shock absorber to compression. If the resistance is insufficient, carry out the appropriate work.

If the resistance of the suspension strut or the rear suspension shock absorber is insufficient during the recoil stroke, it is necessary to replace the damaged parts or repair their malfunctions, as well as filter and fill the liquid. The guide sleeve must be replaced.

Increased play in the ball joint, as a result of contamination caused by leakage or damage to the cover, indicates its unsuitability. In this case, replace the ball joint.

To prevent increased tire tread wear, sharp accelerations should be avoided, the wheels should not be blocked when braking, the wheel alignment angles should be adjusted. Exceeding the permissible loads during vehicle operation, tire wear will be inevitable.

During the production of VAZ-2101 cars, the front suspension was changed and improved: its kinematics changed, many parts were reinforced, in particular springs and ball joints.

The repair of the chassis in a VAZ 2106 car is similar to repairs on the VAZ 2107 model, therefore, if you are the owner of the seventh Zhiguli model, then this video with detailed instructions will help you troubleshoot the chassis.
Also, this video clip will be useful for owners of other classic models of the Zhiguli brand, such as VAZ 2106, 2104, 2107. The owners of these models are well aware that the repair of the running gear in their cars is far from uncommon.

changed the front springs. the Zhigul looked like a Tatru. the wheels went to the razvalku. the car does not sit down. what to do?

Since you are reading this article, it means that you still decided to reinforce the body on your VAZ 2101.It doesn't matter what prompted you to this responsible and time-consuming process: deformations from impact, car tuning, or simply “combing” your hands, one thing is for sure - the price of repairs will pleasantly surprise you if you do all the repairs yourself.

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Before we start tuning the body of the VAZ 2101, I consider it necessary to take a closer look at this most important part of our vehicle.

So, the body of the VAZ 2101 is a rigid spatial truss made of steel, which consists of sequentially assembled, non-separable elements:

The base is a trough-shaped, one-piece stamped panel with a tunnel in the center. The tunnel has two functions:

Protects the elements placed in it from damage (in our case, the cardan shaft is located in it);
Increases underbody resistance to torsion / deformation, like welded side members * along the base.

Spar * - stamped steel bar with a box section.

In the front, they are combined into a single whole:

Front spars serving as power elements carrying the front suspension with a power unit;
Front shield;
Panel;
Wings;
Mud flaps.

The rear also houses mud flaps and a luggage compartment panel.

The left and right side panels consist of interconnected outer and inner panels:

The outer panel consists of the rear, front and middle pillars, the sill and the rear fender;
The inner panel contains many power elements (rack amplifiers, etc.).

And finally, reinforced with cross members, the one-piece stamped structure is called the roof of the car.

The elements of the body body are made of stamping, from thin sheet steel. The low weight, high strength and durability of such a structure fully meet the basic requirements of the functionality laid down in it.

Further, to this resulting one-piece welded body, its removable elements are mounted:

Trunk lid;
Hood;
Doors;
Front cladding;
Decorative items, etc. accessories.

But there is no need to flatter into third-party "jungle", we will continue the conversation about strengthening the body of the classic VAZ.

With a slight stiffness of the body, with sharp maneuvers, the effect of "steering feeling" disappears, the steering becomes, as it were, "smeared". This is a consequence of the fact that the car body twists, deforms, and the suspension does not work properly because of this.

Long-term deformations cause metal fatigue, weld seams gradually deteriorate, are exposed to the environment and, as a rule, all this leads to extensive corrosion.

For all of the above, I personally have a reasonable question: what exactly prevented the designers from initially achieving the maximum values of the torsional stiffness * of the VAZ 2101 body?

First, it is the mass of the vehicle. That is, here is the principle of the "golden mean": either we reduce the weight of the car or increase its strength. Of course, you can suggest using more modern materials as the amplifier material, for example, such as carbon and titanium, but here we have another pitfall - the price.

Secondly, security. There is such a concept as active and passive safety, and so, the engine compartment of a car plays an important role in passive safety. It should be as less rigid as possible, so that its deformation has time to extinguish the main force of the impact.

So the designers have to look for compromises and deduce the ideal balances for calculating the torsional stiffness indicators.

Torsional stiffness * - ratio of Newton meters to degrees (Nm / deg.). The more force we apply (Newton - meter), the more we get the angle (degree) by which the car body is deformed.For the vaz 2101, this value is 7300 Nm / deg, and after we reinforce the body on the vaz with our own hands, this figure will increase by about 20-25%.

There is a large number of body tuning done on the VAZ 2101, the choice is based on only two factors: the further purpose of the car and the thickness of its owner's purse.

We will not delve into all the intricacies of the technological process, since, when making the reinforcement of the body, the classic vaz requires only the presence of imaginative thinking and hands growing from one place, we will discuss only some of the main, so to speak, basic options.

The universal strut of the front strut is designed to maintain the initial positions of the front suspension points during dynamic movement of the vehicle.

Strengthens the mudguard struts, which deform over time in the event of "breakdowns" of the front suspension, thereby preventing and stopping the already begun extrusion of the side members, enhances the lateral rigidity of the body.

Installation of the spacer does not require any additional work, it is installed in the standard holes of the horizontal upper suspension supports. In this case, you will additionally receive from 10 to 25% of the stiffness of the front glasses.

When tuning the body of the VAZ 2101, with the help of struts of this type (including in the rear), your car significantly reduces the risk of side skidding, which is very important when side sliding.

"Serious" boys have "richer" struts (see photo)

Next, we will talk about improving the operation of the rear suspension of the car, namely about Parnar's traction.

As you remember, the purpose of this element is to prevent the rear axle from moving in the transverse direction to the body, while at the same time, without limiting it in vertical movement, it is a transverse link fixed at one end on the body and the other on the axle.

It is precisely from these lateral forces that the so-called "house" of Parnard's thrust is gradually deformed, which we will strengthen by welding a patch of 3 mm sheet iron.

Also carrying out body tuning on the VAZ 2101 in reality, the Watt mechanism can be considered an alternative to Parnar's thrust.

As can be seen in the photo, regardless of the suspension travel, the suspension with the installed Watt's mechanism does not, unlike Parnard's thrust, "slip" towards the rear suspension axle.

I would also like to offer another option for tuning the rear suspension of the VAZ 2101, namely the installation of an anti-roll bar and an A-arm.

This "upgrade" will allow us to reduce the roll of the car in corners and make the rear suspension more rigid and predictable.

When installing the anti-roll bar, you do not need to have any special skills, the work is carried out in two stages:

We fix the structure of the stabilizer on the rear axle;
We attach the stabilizer struts (the so-called "eggs") to the longitudinal jet rods.

It is also advisable to add a couple of additional longitudinal rods, for which we will need to make additional fastenings to the body and axle for each rod.

Now it's time to replace Parnard's traction with an A-shaped lever, which locks the rear axle in the center and prevents it from shifting both in longitudinal and lateral control.

This element can be bought, although it is quite simple to manufacture:

It remains only to weld on the rear axle, exactly in the center of the platform for the ball:

After that, the entire structure can be installed on the car.

As a rule, rigid struts and stretchers work exclusively in compression, but we can make them work in torsion as well, for which the cups and load angles are reinforced with special thick plates - a kerchief or overlay.

These elements can be used to strengthen the wheel arches ...

It is very convenient and efficient to restore with gussets and linings.

sore spots of the body VAZ 2101:

B-pillar, overhead booster;
The upper joint of the sidewall lining with the windshield pillar trim;
Front door, upper radius;
In the opening of the front door, from the inside or outside, at the base of the windshield pillar.

Places with formed cracks are repaired by welding reinforcing linings cut from one millimeter steel sheet. They are welded with an intermittent seam along the joint, while the reinforcing strip must follow the contour of the restored panel.

Strengthening the body of the classic

It is also important to strengthen the spar in the area of the pendulum and the steering gear with a 10 ... 15 mm plate and boil an amplifier under the rear seat in the form of a two mm lining.

The final touch of our today's epic is the increase in standard welds and the welding of additional elements.

This tuning of the body of the VAZ 2101 is due to the fact that on the conveyor the body elements are connected to each other using spot welding, when applied, large gaps appear between the "points". It would be natural to assume that the smaller this distance, the more rigid the whole structure will be. But the manufacturing plant, due to technological problems during production and the need for large labor costs, does not go to this.

For us, while the "iron" horse is freely available, fate itself gives us a chance to correct this flaw. The main thing is to choose a sensible welder, no matter what violates the physics of the body.At the same time, we will weld new additional elements into the weak parts of the body in the form of the aforementioned linings and kerchiefs.

Also, taking advantage of the moment for greater rigidity, it is advisable to install the inner bushings in the "embroidered" box-shaped cavities.

On this topic, tuning and strengthening the body of the VAZ 2101 I think is more or less disclosed. It is impossible to describe each procedure in detail in one article; I set myself the task of only showing you the way.

Do not think in templates! Good luck!

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Replacing the lower arm of the front suspension on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107

The lower arm on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Zhiguli it is necessary to change if: the lever is bent or cracks are found on it (it is not recommended to cook the lever), the silent blocks scroll in the lugs. This job is not easy. But it cannot be called not feasible either 🙂. In order to replace the lever with your own handsFirst of all, you need to think about the tool, and then about the spare parts. And it's not just words. For example: to remove a lever you need a spring tensioner. Without it, you can not only not put the spring back in place (let’s say it was painless to remove it), but also get serious injuries. Also, I would like to recall the ball joint puller and the device for pressing in and out of silent blocks. In principle, the last point can be excluded, but only if you purchase lower arm assembly ( lever with lower axle and silent blocks ). But this option has a small minus - the price. Although, what I will tell you when you yourself can visit the market and find what will be easier and more profitable for you.

Let's get down to business. Spring tensioner and ball joint extractor You can see in the photo 1. See the same fixtures for pressing-in silent blocks and you can understand how to work with them by reading this article.

What's next ... By instrument. I will not compile a detailed list, I will list in an abbreviated version - open-end and spanners (13, 17, 19, 22), a tire bar, a hammer and a chisel.And a special key for fixing the front shock absorber rod will also be useful in this work, photo 2.

Spare parts. If you nevertheless bought, for your beloved Classics, a lever assembly, then you have almost nothing to worry about.
If not, then let's consider what else to buy (besides the lever). First, two silent blocks to the lower arm (if you are going to change both levers, both right and left, you will have to buy four silent blocks). Two thrust washers (internal) on lower arm axle... The axle itself, too, can surprise, so we can advise you to buy it as well (I had it, "for every fireman" 😉), along with persistent washers and nuts - photo 3).

Looking ahead, I will say that in my case the axle was not useful. They went into business, only persistent washers.
Now, as always, the description point by point replacing the lower arm of the front suspension on a VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Zhiguli:
1. Jack up the required side and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the front shock absorber - photos 4 and 5.

3. Install a tensioning puller in the spring (preferably grab 5 turns) and squeeze it - photo 6, 7, 8.

4. Now you can unscrew the anti-roll bar bracket, unscrew the nut of the lower ball joint and press out the ball pin - photo 9, 10.

5. Press the lever down and take out the spring (photo 11).

6. Unscrew (key 19) two nuts securing the lower arm to the beam (photo 12). And remove the lever. It may not be possible to remove the lever right away. And to fix this, you will have to pick up a chisel, hammer and pry bar. We hammer the chisel between the axis of the lever and the beam, which will allow ripping the stuck axle from the bolts. Yes, and we try not to lose the adjusting washers (photo 13) and remember on which side how many washers were.

7. The lever is removed. Further, if the lever is assembled, we put it on the car. If not, then we unpack the removed lever in order to get the axle (photo 14). After that, we assemble the lever - installing the axle and silent blocks. Photos - 15, 16, 17, 18, were taken on a different day and with a different lever, but I think they will still be useful to you.

8. That's all. We carry out the side in the reverse order. Before assembly, we lubricate the bolts of the beam and axle journals, for example, with nigrol. The last to tighten the nuts (key 22) of the axis of the lower arm, on a completely lowered car to the ground (this is necessary for the correct operation of the silent blocks) .
Well, I guess I haven't forgotten anything! )))

PERFORMANCE ORDER

1. Place the vehicle on a lift or a viewing ditch; holding the end of the rod by the flats with the key А.57070, disconnect the upper end of the shock absorber and remove the front wheels.

3. Disconnect the ends of the anti-roll bar from the lower suspension arms.

4. Using a puller 67.7801.9513, press out the fingers from the holes of the levers and take the steering rods to the side.

6. Remove the upper arm shaft and disconnect it from the body. Disconnect the lower arm axle from the cross member and remove the suspension assembly from the vehicle.

7. Remove the spring by smoothly relieving it, remove the tool and repeat the operations for the other suspension unit.

eight.Remove the engine splash shield and stabilizer bar.

9. Supporting the engine with A.70526 traverse or hoist, remove the cross member.

11. To prevent incorrect distribution of forces in the rubber-metal hinges, tightening the nuts and axles of the levers must be done in the following order:

12. Check and adjust the front wheel alignment angles.

The front suspension is the weak point of any car. Many owners of domestic cars are interested in how to replace the front suspension of a VAZ 2106 with their own hands. This is not difficult as long as you follow the instructions and use a good set of tools.

The quality of roads in our country has never been of high quality, especially after winter. After the snow melts, numerous potholes and cracks are found in the asphalt. As you know, the VAZ 2106 suspension is designed to mitigate vibrations transmitted from holes in the road to the vehicle body. Over time, the undercarriage wears out and requires repair, which can be done by hand.

Smooth movement and maneuvering in corners depend on the front suspension of the car. Periodic diagnostics and maintenance are required to ensure safe driving. If, while driving, you hear any extraneous sounds and knocks, grinding or swaying - all these are signs of a malfunction of the VAZ 2106 front suspension.

It is recommended to carry out diagnostics every 15 thousand kilometers. In this case, it is important to inspect in detail the hinges of the levers, check the condition of the lower and upper ball bearings, springs and shock absorbers, as well as the levers themselves. If there are no defects, just do the camber.

Do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2106 undercarriage can include a wide list of works, among which are:

Adjusting the bearings on the hubs.
Replacing grease and bearing seals.
Replacing the front suspension shock absorbers.
Replacing the springs in pairs.
Installing new pivots on the upper and lower arms.
Replacement of levers, both upper and lower.
Replacing the anti-roll bar cushions on the VAZ 2106.
Installing new top or bottom supports.

After completing all these or one of the listed works, it is imperative to do the alignment in a specialized workshop.

To replace the cross member of the VAZ 2106 front suspension, you will need a small set of simple tools:

keys for 13, 17, 19 and 22;
screwdriver;
hammer;
extension cords.

Having prepared all this, get to work. First, remove the lower arm of the front suspension from the car (we will describe how to do this below). It should be removed assembled with a ball joint and silent blocks. Then open the hood, dismantle the carburetor air filter and cover this hole with something to prevent dirt from entering during operation.

Prepare a cross member that will be needed to keep the engine suspended when removing the front cross member. An ordinary building board 5 cm thick is suitable as a material. The length of the traverse should be equal to the distance between the flanges of the front wings. In the middle of the traverse, make a hole into which a long bolt or hairpin with a bracket is inserted.

On the flanges of the front fenders of the VAZ 2106 under the hood, install a traverse and insert a long bolt and a bracket into its hole. The latter should be bolted to the lug of the power unit.By slightly tightening the nut on the stud, it is necessary to remove the gaps in the joints of the bracket bolt and the motor eyelet.

Through the hole in the cross member on both sides, using the socket head, you need to unscrew the nuts holding the motor mountings and remove the nuts with spring washers. Next, place the supports under the crossbar and lower the car on them so that the crossbar touches them slightly.

On each side, it is necessary to unscrew the horizontal and vertical bolts that attach the cross member to the side members. When jacking up the car, the cross member will remain on the supports. This completes the process of dismantling the front suspension cross member of the VAZ 2106 with your own hands: replace it with a new one and assemble everything in the reverse order of disassembly.

Sometimes self-repair of the VAZ 2106 chassis requires replacing the ball joints. First, you need to diagnose the element as follows:

hang the wheel;
substitute something under the lower arm;
lower the auto.

When lowered onto the stand, the lower arm will stop pressing on the suspension. Grasp the wheel with both hands from below and from above, and make several sharp movements: upwards towards yourself, and downwards from yourself, and then vice versa. If, at the same time, a knock is heard and a backlash of the hub with a caliper in the ball area is felt, the front suspension of the VAZ 2106 requires repair.

For replacement, you will need a jack, a hammer and a regular set of keys. First, you need to dismantle the wheel and unload the suspension, and then use a 22 wrench to unscrew the nut of the lower or upper support. Make a few hammer blows on the shoulder of the steering knuckle, releasing the ball, and then free the support from the lever.

Using a 13 wrench, unscrew the 3 nuts on the bolts securing the ball to the lever. Be careful when removing the ball from the lever. It is better to dismantle the plate together with it, not forgetting to install it in place when installing the ball joint. Remember that the lower and upper supports are different from each other. The assembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

To replace the upper arm of the VAZ 2106 front suspension yourself, you will need keys for 13 and 22, a jack, a support, a balloon key to remove the wheel. To dismantle the upper arm of the front suspension, follow the instructions:

Raise the car on a jack and remove the wheel, and then put a support under the lower arm and lower the car. This is necessary to load the suspension to the point that the car is under its own weight. This will align the levers.
Fix the axle of the upper lever with a wrench and loosen the axle nut by unscrewing it until it coincides with the end of the axle.
Unscrew the bolts that hold the upper ball joint, and then move the lever up slightly and completely unscrew the axle nut by pulling the axle out of the lever.
Remove the lever together with the silent blocks without dismantling them.

Next, carry out all the work due to which you dismantled the VAZ 2106 front suspension arm, and reinstall it or replace it with a new one. The assembly process is carried out in the same way as disassembly, but in reverse order.

Video (click to play).

When the VAZ 2106 chassis is being repaired, it may be necessary to replace the lower arm of the front suspension. To work you need wrenches 13 and 22. First, remove the front suspension spring, and then using a wrench, unscrew the two nuts that hold the lever on the cross member. Dismantle it from the cross member bolts without dismantling the silent blocks, axle and ball joint. If necessary, replace the ball joint, or change the lever. Reinstall it in the reverse order of disassembly.