DIY repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2110

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2110 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello dear visitors of the site> This time we will show you and tell you how to tighten the rail of the VAZ 2110. Why do you need to tighten it? Our roads are to blame. In general, a steering rack should serve 14-15 years, but as we all know, with our operating conditions, the service life of the steering rack is reduced by five. So, common malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 steering rack are backlash and knocking in the steering rack. In order to avoid wasting money immediately in the event of a malfunction, sort out the steering rack or replace it altogether. You can first try to adjust, or rather tighten.

Read more How to tighten the rail VAZ 2110? →

I think everyone understands that with roads like ours, the hodovka often requires repair. Quite often, after winter, when the snow has melted, and the pits are still not visible due to puddles, shock absorbers and thrust bearings often get it. Because of such situations, it is necessary to repair these components of the VAZ 2110 undercarriage. It is better to carry out repairs in a timely manner, since at the first stages it will result in a waste of less money than if you start a breakdown and it will lead to a more deplorable result.

This article will provide information thanks to which you can replace the VAZ 2110 thrust bearings with your own hands. Moreover, we will do it so that we do not have to adjust the wheel alignment. That is, we will not touch the breakup bolts. Continue reading Replacing the support bearing →

In this publication, I want to tell you how to replace the anti-roll bar. And how to replace its parts. You can easily carry out this type of repair in the garage with your own hands. Stabilizer mounts 4: in two places it is attached to the car body and two more - this is the fastening of its struts to the lever

Video (click to play).

Let's go straight to the attachment points with the lever. We unscrew the nuts.

The first thing I want to write about right away is that do not delay the repair of the ball joint! There were situations when the front wheel, while the car was moving, completely fell on the road, due to wear on the ball. I think there is no need to describe what will happen to the car if it happens at high speed. In addition, from the article you will learn how to replace a ball joint on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, thereby saving money.

Such a part of a car as a steering tip is referred to as a car walker. And naturally, like other parts of the VAZ undercarriage, with our roads, it often fails. This type of repair, as well as the replacement of ball joints, is quite common on the VAZ 2110. It is difficult to detect a broken steering tip in time. Basically, everyone notices a problem when problems such as a knock in the front end appear, the car does not obey the steering wheel well and the steering is loose.

If you are not sure that the cause of the malfunction lies precisely in the steering tips, then jack up the wheel and shake it in different directions. If it is a worn tip, then you will notice free play and backlash. To replace the steering tips on the VAZ 2110 does not require a lot of tools and skills. For convenience, here is a list of the tools you will need: Continue reading Replacing steering tips →

Every motorist understands how important the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 plays. But this unit may have certain problems, typical malfunctions, which almost everyone who has more or less little experience in car repair is capable of knowing and fixing. Therefore, today we will talk specifically about the front suspension of the "tens".

Wheels are attached to the front suspension, the unit provides amortization of the "front end" of the car, is responsible for stability while driving, wheel alignment, camber, toe-in.

The front suspension device of the VAZ 2110 is quite complicated, but any of you can figure it out. The main thing here is to arm yourself with an instruction manual, and also to understand the essence of the main angles.

The main element of the front suspension is considered hydraulic telescopic rack , which is simply irreplaceable in the issue of depreciation, ensuring a comfortable ride on the car. The car will not shake too much, passing every hole will not turn your trip into a nightmare.

To change the camber, there is a strut in the front suspension. To be more precise, the steering knuckle and the top bolt, which has an eccentric washer and a belt, are responsible for this process.

Special springs;
Buffer to limit the compression stroke. On the VAZ 2110, this element is made of polyurethane;
Top support. It is attached to the post, to which, in turn, the mudguard is attached. Please note that only self-locking nuts are used for fixing. Therefore, when repairing, ordinary nuts will not work;
Bearing to ensure the rotation of the rack together with the wheels;
Shock absorbers with spring and plunger.

By the way, the VAZ 2110 front suspension cross member is a bar to which the lower arms are connected. In the center, it is attached to the body by means of a rubber cushion.

This is a short diagram of the front suspension of the VAZ 2110, which your operating manual will help you get to know better. Many motorists underestimate the importance of this literature, which the manufacturer attaches to each of his cars. But in fact, it contains in detail and in all colors the necessary, useful and important information about each unit, unit and system of the machine. Including the front suspension, of course.

The front suspension is characterized by certain breakdowns, which are determined by two phenomena:

They should be considered separately, since the reasons for their appearance are different.

If you start to hear knocks coming from the front suspension, this could be due to several reasons:

The rack has certain faults;
Ties on the cross member, cushions are worn out or bolts are loose;
The attachment to the body was not strong enough;
The springs are out of order;
The hinges are worn out;
The rubber part of the suspension has broken its integrity. At the same time, the knock should be clear, like a blow of metal to metal;
Wheel alignment is out of balance.

If you hear not a knock, but a noise, then the causes of front suspension problems may be as follows:

The bolts responsible for attaching the anti-roll bar to the body are loose;

Rubber components have collapsed in the strut support;

The rubber pads of the tie or the rod are worn out;

The suspension spring has broken or broken its geometry;

The wheels are out of balance;

The compression stroke buffer has collapsed.

It is quite easy to understand the structure of the front suspension, as well as by ear or visually determine its malfunctions, despite the seeming complexity of the assembly. But the question should be approached carefully, periodically check the condition of the suspension, even if no noises, knocks or the behavior of the car on the road indicate its malfunction.

For any car, it is better to organize preventive maintenance than to pay exorbitant prices for full repairs later. Like the disease, problems with the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 are best avoided on their approaches. It is cheaper, easier and more correct on the part of the car owner.Almost all VAZ cars with front-wheel drive have the same type of front-wheel suspension. Although its design cannot be called the most successful and promising, but at the cost of maintenance and the availability of consumables and replaceable elements, it significantly outperforms more progressive cars. Which, however, can not be said about reliability. That is why it is desirable for every owner of this car to know the device of the front suspension of the VAZ-2110.What a suspension is for and what responsibility it has, everyone knows from a driving school, if not from school. Therefore, we will not focus on general maxims, but let's get down to business right away.The VAZ-2110 inherited from the eight and nine the MacPherson suspension, developed back in the 70s of the last century and tested on the experienced VAZ-2108.Of course, adjustments were made to the design and today it looks like this:As you can see from the diagram, there is nothing complicated in the design, there is nothing superfluous. The Spartan suspension of the tenth family belongs to the type of independent suspensions with hydraulic shock-absorbing struts, 7 coil springs on the lower (23) wishbones. The right and left levers are articulated with silent blocks, connected by a stabilizer bar. The stabilizer is necessary to maintain the stability of the car when cornering and during active maneuvering. It is a spring steel rod with a bend for the muffler.The most important, expensive and maintenance-intensive unit is the front shock absorber strut ( 16 ).There is a suspension strut somewhere hidden here!In the lower part, the strut is attached to the steering knuckle 19 with two bolts, one of which ( 18 ) eccentric. By turning this bolt, loosening the nut 17, adjust the camber angle of the front wheels. The front spring rests on the support cup 6 from below and on the upper support cup 10. To prevent breakdown of the suspension, a compression damper 9 is installed on the shock absorber rod.The stand itself rests on top of the cup 12, which is assembled with a pivot bearing 11. The upper support is a separate unit, it is fixed to the body mudguard using three self-locking nuts. The support has some elasticity in order to absorb high-frequency vibrations and not transmit them to the body, and the upper bearing 11 and the lower ball joint 1 provide free rotation around its axis to the rack and the front steered wheel.Let's consider how the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 is arranged, how much it complies with modern standards, what functions it provides, and what attention it requires.First of all, it is intended for fastening the wheels, and also designed to provide shock absorption for the entire front of the car, its stability on the road while driving, the possibility of a number of wheel adjustments, namely, along the axis of rotation (the angle of its longitudinal inclination), toe, camber. Image - DIY repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2110

Diagram of the front suspension VAZ 2110 assembly

Let's talk about its device. The most important element of the front suspension is its strut (hydraulic telescopic) - irreplaceable in the amortization, that is, ensuring a comfortable ride, without much shaking (as far as possible) over the bumps and bumps of our roads. It is thanks to the rack, or rather, its steering knuckle with the upper bolt, equipped with an eccentric washer and a belt, that it is possible to change the camber of the wheel. Image - DIY repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2110

Telescopic front suspension strut VAZ 2110

The rack mounts:

Special spring;
Compression travel buffer made of polyurethane;
Upper support. Its structure is as follows: it is attached to a rack, to which the mudguard is attached with self-locking nuts. Therefore, if you are doing repairs with your own hands, do not miss this moment - you cannot use ordinary nuts;
A bearing that allows the rack to be rotated together with the wheels;
A shock absorber in which a spring and plunger are installed for better performance.

The ball joint integrates the lower parts: the steering knuckle and the lever. Longitudinal stretch marks, lower levers, supports, which the cross member has, are connected to each other by rubber-metal hinges. With the help of special washers, it becomes possible to adjust the longitudinal tilt of the pivot axis. An angular contact, non-adjustable bearing secures the wheel hubs.

The cross member is the bar to which the lower arms are connected. In the middle, it is attached to the body, with the help of rubber cushions.
This, in short, is the front suspension device. And now we will consider possible malfunctions, which in some cases can be eliminated with our own hands, in others it is better to contact a specialist.

If while driving you hear a knock in the front suspension, then the main reasons may be:

Rack malfunctions;
The bolts are loose, perhaps the braces or pillows with which the cross member is equipped are worn out;
Loose attachment to the body;
The rubber parts have collapsed, and the knocking has a pronounced "metallic" sound;
A "limp" or even a broken spring is knocking;
Wear of hinges;
Knocking noise due to imbalance in the wheels.

Almost all Zhiguli owners prefer to repair the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 with their own hands. This is largely due to the fact that she is killed in our directions quite often, and for the services of auto mechanics they are not charged so modestly. Of course, if, for example, a ball or a lever flew, part of the people can go to the service station. But usually the problems are much simpler and can be solved on their own.

Once, having understood the design of the "dozens" suspension, most of the work can be done on your own.Moreover, identifying the node that needs your attention is not that difficult. And to determine that the suspension, in principle, began to crumble, is even easier - the characteristic knocks in it are familiar to almost all Zhiguli owners.

Uneven premature wear of the rays can also serve as an indirect symptom. Without a doubt, it is easier to carry out such restoration work for those who have a garage. However, many procedures do not take very long; they can be given a couple of hours using the available overpass or simply using a more powerful and more reliable jack.

DIY VAZ 2110 front suspension repair begins with a search for a part that is not working correctly. Often a simple visual inspection is sufficient for this.

There are quite a few of them on the suspension, and they wear out quickly from negative road conditions.
First of all, these are anthers, also called covers. They are rubber stockings that protect the ball from dirt, water and dust. If they are torn or cracked, without replacement, you will soon face a breakdown of the hinge - and this is a completely different amount of work and a lot of money spent.

The next item is rubber bushings, which dampen hard shocks, preventing vibration from being transmitted to the car body. They are found on the link rods and on the shock absorber eyes.

Replacing all rubber bands is a quick, cheap and affordable business even for a novice car enthusiast. Thanks to it, much more difficult repairs can be avoided.

Not necessarily it will be turned out, it may just wear out. The defect is manifested by knocking and grinding. You can't visually identify it, you still have to disassemble the wheel. Experienced drivers, buying, for example, a used used VAZ, just in case, change them right away, without looking.

The desired wheel is hung out and the ramp is removed;
The mechanism is cleaned from mud layers;
A fastening nut is screwed on the top ball pin;
The finger is pressed out of the corresponding steering knuckle. When it comes out, the support mount is removed, and it is pulled out together with the protective casing from the upper lever;
A new ball is installed, and the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

The lower support changes in the same way.

There is a problem in the rack.
Weakness of bolts, increased wear of pads or braces, which are available on the chain.
Inadequate strong fastening to the body.
Exit from the spring.
Wear of hinges.
By loosening the rubber part of the suspension. In this case, the stack should have a brightly expressed "metallic" character.
The presence of a disbalance in the wheel adjustment.

Loss of bolts, with the help of which the fastening to the body bar of the stabilizer of the variable stability is organized.
Disintegration of rubber elements of the rack support.
Increased wear of the barbell or rubber suspension pads.
Compression buffer expansion.
Deformation or exit from the suspension spring.
Wheel alignment.
Wear of rubber-metal joints of the lever or front suspension strut.

Replacing the buffer is produced when it is disbanded.

The spring is replaced if it is kept or cut.

The ball joint can be replaced when deformed or worn out. The rest of the hinges are changed when they wear or when the stabilizer bar uprights are worn.

The rubber elements of the rack mount need to be replaced if they are installed or destroyed.

When the fastening to the body of the upper support is loosened, it is quite easy to pull it up.

Necessity of carrying out timely repair of cracks on the front glass. List of tools and materials for repairing cracks on the front glass and the procedure for performing repair work.

The need to carry out measures for adjusting the clutch on the BAZ-2210 cars. List of tools for adjusting the clutch and the speed of adjusting the clutch cable for BAZ-2110.

Today we will talk about how to replace the silent blocks of the VAZ 2110.

The suspension is one of the most loaded devices of the car, since it constantly absorbs all the oscillatory movements of the wheel, which are transmitted to it from the road surface.

A feature of the suspension design is that many of its elements should not be rigidly connected, otherwise it will transmit all vibration to the body.

How the VAZ 2110 suspension works.

Therefore, some composite hangers are connected by means of rubber bushings and rubber pads with metal bushings inside, i.e. silent blocks.

So, in the front independent suspension of the VAZ-2110 through the silent blocks, they are connected to each other:

Lower arm;
Stretching;
Anti-roll bar.

Each of these elements plays an important role in the suspension design.

The lower arm prevents lateral displacement of the wheel, the spreader bar prevents the wheel from moving longitudinally relative to the body, and the anti-roll bar prevents the body from swaying during maneuvers or when driving over bumps.

But the loads emanating from the wheels on these elements are very large, therefore, their displacement, although small, should be provided for in order to partially absorb the loads and partially extinguish them, and not transfer them to the body.

The possibility of displacement of the suspension elements relative to each other and relative to the body, as well as partial damping of vibrations, is provided by silent blocks and rubber bushings.

On the VAZ-2110, silent blocks and bushings are installed in the front suspension:

Lower arm (two silent blocks - by means of one it is attached to the body, and a stretch is connected to it through the second);
Stretching (one silent block through which it is attached to the cross member);
Anti-roll bar (by means of a rack with two silent blocks, it is connected to the lower arm, and to the car body - through brackets with rubber bushings).

Since the VAZ-2110 has a dependent rear suspension, so many silent blocks are not required, because it is structurally simpler.

At the rear, only two silent blocks are installed on the entire suspension - by means of which the rear beam is attached to the body brackets.

It should be noted that silent blocks and bushings are consumables.

Due to heavy loads, it is possible to push through the rubber part of the silentblock, peel it off the metal sleeve, and delaminate the rubber itself. As a result, they are no longer able to work properly.

This translates into knocks from the side of the suspension, the appearance of squeaks, when driving, especially over irregularities, the car can throw from side to side, and the more wear of the silent blocks, the stronger the throwing will be.

Also, due to worn out silent blocks, the angles of the wheel position change - camber and toe-in, due to which the car will no longer hold the road, it will begin to be demolished in one direction, the tires will quickly wear out due to incorrect angles.

So, the condition of all rubber elements of the car's suspension must be constantly monitored, and in case of signs of their malfunction, they must be promptly replaced.

With certain knowledge and the availability of a tool, you can replace the silent blocks yourself without contacting the service.

It should be noted right away that even if damage is found to one or two silent blocks, it is better to completely replace all rubber suspension parts, and not just damaged ones.

Also, all elements are replaced immediately from the left and right sides of the car.

There are not so many tools that will be required to replace all consumables, but some of them are specific.

A set of keys, heads, cranks;
A set of new oil seals and bushings;
Device for pressing out and pressing in silent blocks;
Ball joint puller;
Jack;
Stops;
Vice;
Hammer and wooden spacers;
Soap solution.

Device for pressing out and pressing in silent blocks.

You can buy it or make it yourself.

The simplest self-made device consists of a long bolt with a nut, pipe sections with different diameters and several thick washers.

The principle of operation of such a device is very simple.

To press out the silent block, a bolt is taken, a washer is put on it, a bit smaller than the diameter of the rubber part of the silent block.

The bolt is passed through the bushing of the silent block. On the other hand, a piece of pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the seat, for example, a lever, is thrown over the bolt.

That is, the pipe will have to abut against the circumference of the seat in the lever.

Next, another washer is put on the bolt, the circumference is larger than the diameter of the pipe, and then the nut is screwed on.

Pressing out is done like this: the nut, screwing, will pull the washer to itself, abutting against the silent block.

The installed tube will allow it to come out of the seat, and not rest against another washer.

Pressing in is done in the same way, with the only difference that it is not necessary to use a piece of pipe, since the silent block will rest against the thrust washer when it sits in place.

You can even press in without using a device, it is enough to have only a vise, between the jaws of which a new silent block and a lever are installed, so that it and its seat are on the same axis.

Further, the vice is compressed and the consumable itself becomes in place. But in this way, you can install silent blocks only on the lever and stabilizer struts, but on the cross member, you will still need a device to replace it.

First, we describe the sequence of actions to restore the front suspension.

All work is best done in the inspection pit, so the car must be installed on it and immediately loosen the front wheel mountings.

The front of the car is jacked up on both sides. First, one side is raised, supports are installed under it, and then the second side is raised with a jack and is also fixed with supports, after which the wheels are removed.

The lower arm is removed first from the vehicle. To do this, the nuts for fastening the brace, stabilizer struts and ball joints are unscrewed from it.

The lever is removed from the ball joint with a puller.

The last one to unscrew the nut securing the lever to the bracket on the body, the bolt is pulled out, and the lever is removed.

Further, the stretch is removed. Since it has already been disconnected from the lever, it remains only to unscrew the nut that secures it to the cross member.

The stabilizer is the last to be removed from the vehicle.

The stabilizer is attached through the struts to the levers on both sides, so you can either first dismantle it from the other side and start removing the stabilizer, or simply unscrew the nut securing its rack, and dismantle the lever and the stretch later.

Disconnecting the stabilizer attachments to the levers, to remove it, all that remains is to unscrew the nuts securing the body brackets and remove the stabilizer along with the bushings.

Having dismantled the suspension elements, you can proceed to pressing out the worn out silent blocks and installing new ones.

With a special device prepared in advance, old silent blocks are removed from the cross member, levers and struts and new ones are pressed in their place.

New consumables can be moistened with soapy water to facilitate installation.

But it is not recommended to use lubricants based on petroleum products, since they have a negative effect on rubber elements.

Regarding the stabilizer struts, before pressing-pressing, they will need to be knocked off the stabilizer, since they are firmly planted on it.

When knocking down, it is better to use a hammer and strike through a wooden spacer.

Also, after removing the struts from the stabilizer, rubber bushings are pulled together and new ones are installed in their place.

Often the lower arm has a phenomenon such as end play.

It is formed when the body bracket to which the lever is attached, for one reason or another, unclenched and a gap appeared between it and the metal bushing of the silent block, due to which the silent block itself was able to move along the mounting bolt.

This axial play is detrimental to suspension performance and should therefore be avoided. But if it has appeared, then there are two ways to eliminate it.

You can try to squeeze the bracket. But it is very difficult to do this, since it is better not to apply impact with a hammer, even through a spacer, to it, and using clamps or a vice is not very convenient.

It is much easier to get rid of the axial play by using washers that are placed between the bracket and the silent block.

But according to the manual, it is recommended to replace the entire lower arm with hinges

After replacing all consumables, the removed suspension elements are reinstalled.

After replacing all the silent blocks on the front suspension, the camber-toe angles must be adjusted on the car.

Now let's look at how to replace the silent blocks on the rear suspension of the VAZ-2110.

Although there are only two of them, it is not very easy to replace them, since the rear beam on which they are installed will not be dismantled from the car.

Not a lot of tools are required:

A set of keys;
New silent blocks;
Tool for pressing-pressing;
Soap solution;
Hammer and wooden spacer.

The car is installed on a pit and the tailgate is blown out. First, replace on one side.

To begin with, the handbrake cable is removed from the beam. Then the nut securing the beam to the body bracket is unscrewed and the bolt is removed.

The beam is pulled down to be able to get to the silent block.

To fix the beam in this position, a wooden spacer is driven between it and the body.

Next, a worn-out consumable is removed from the beam with a device, and a new element is installed in its place with the same device.

By the way, axial play can also occur in this connection, so it is important to make sure that it is not there after assembly and, if necessary, eliminate it with washers.

Next, the beam is put in place and tightened with a bolt and nut. Replacing the second silent block is done in the same way.

These methods are used to replace the suspension silent blocks of the VAZ-2110 car.

After completing the work, the vehicle will regain its smooth running.

However, these consumables cannot serve for a long time on our roads, so it is advisable to replace them approximately every 20 thousand km. Image - DIY repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2110

Front silent blocks vaz 2110

Everyone knows that it is with the help of silent blocks that the angles of the alignment of the wheels of the car are influenced. Therefore, it is very important to ensure that they are always in good condition.
Replacing the front silent blocks of the Vaz 2110 in some cases is simply necessary. And it is worth noting that replacing the front silent blocks with a VAZ 2110 can be easily done by hand.

Vaz 2110 replacement of front suspension silent blocks

It is not difficult to find out if they are working correctly.
To do this, you need to pay attention to:

Will the rubber on the front wheels hold together while riding. In this case, driving does not have to be long-distance.
Even when traveling short distances, creaking should not be observed. This does not mean that the creak will be very noticeable - it may be inaudible;
Are there any defects on the rubber? Usually, if the silent blocks do not work well, then small cracks and breaks appear on them.
Is there a knock on the front wheels. The fact is that the silent blocks begin to slip badly, so over time it becomes more and more difficult for them to spin, so they begin to make sounds similar to knocking.

Note: here one cannot act according to the principle of doctors: one “symptom” cannot indicate the presence of a “disease”. On the contrary, if at least one of the above problems is noticeable, then the silent blocks must be urgently changed.

Replacing silent blocks on the front suspension of the VAZ 2110

The vast majority of people are afraid to replace silent blocks at home. Although in fact this is a fairly simple exercise.
But first you need to prepare properly. It is imperative to have a puller.
With its help, it will be possible not only to remove the silent blocks, but also to return them to their original position after doing all the maneuvers.
What is a puller? It is a tool consisting of two tubes and two washers.

Note: There are different types of pullers. But when choosing them, you need to pay attention that they are suitable for silent blocks. By the way, you can make a puller at home.

Remover for silent blocks

The most suitable puller option is a three-blade puller.
To create it, you must have the following materials:

Sheet metal 10 mm thick.
Metal round timber with a diameter of 30 mm.
Screw.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front suspension vaz 2110

You can easily make a puller if you follow the instructions:

Make a drawing of the puller legs. They should be approximately 20 cm long.
Apply the pattern to sheet metal.
Cut out the legs and sand them.
In the upper part of the legs, you need to drill 2 holes for the bolts.
Next, you need to make a core, for which you will need a prepared metal round timber. You need to drill a hole for the thread. Weld on two foot holders (6 in total).

Replacing the silent blocks of the front suspension with a vaz 2110

The last detail is the screw. Drill holes through the top of the screw.
It remains only to assemble the puller. To do this, the screw must be pushed into the core, and the paws must be attached to it.

Replacing silent blocks on the front levers of the VAZ 2110

Replacing them involves the following steps:

Jack up the machine and secure it.
Remove the front wheel.
Remove the upper arm. However, before that, you need to carefully see if the silent blocks in the lever are slipping.
They must be stationary.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers vaz 2110

To make it easier to remove the upper arm, it is necessary to knock out the upper support. To do this, unscrew the support nut.

Note: it is quite difficult to unscrew it, but without this, the support will remain in place.

You need to turn the wheel out by hitting the bipod with a hammer. Only then will the support pop out.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers with a VAZ 2110

Note: It is quite long and may take a long time to unscrew.

This bolt must be pulled out to allow the lever to be removed from the machine.
You can start replacing them.

Note: the problem may be not only in the silent blocks, but also in the lever. To check if it is working properly, you need to shove the lever bolt in place and see if there is a lot of axial play.
If it is large, then the problem with the silent blocks may reoccur. Therefore, before inserting a new one, the lever must be repaired.

Replacing silent blocks on the front beam vaz 2110

You can remove the silent blocks with a hammer or chisel. In fact, they drop out almost after the first hit. The main thing is not to harm the car.
Now you need to insert a new silent block where the old one was. It is necessary to press it properly so that it does not dangle.
It can be pressed in easily: one sleeve fits the skirt of the silent block in size, while the other is slightly larger. Pressing in with a smaller bushing, he can easily crawl into the lever.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front beam vaz 2110

There are two repair options:

Change the entire post completely. However, not only is it very expensive, but also its quality is not the best.

You can screw two washers on the sides so that the bolt cannot dangle.

Note: screwing in these washers may cause the bushings to not fit into the lever, so they will need to be shortened slightly with a metal hacksaw. This can significantly reduce the service life of the silent blocks.The lower silent blocks are replaced a little harder:

First you need to remove the stabilizer, which will allow you to move the lever to the right and left.

Now you need to unscrew all the nuts that hold the silent block in a stationary state.

It is necessary to remove the bushings of the lower arm. To do this, it is necessary to repeat all the steps as with the silent blocks of the upper lever.

Now you can start pressing in new silent blocks.

Note: they can only be fixed when the vehicle is loaded. After all, if you fix them on a suspended suspension, then soon they may fail.High-quality photos, the corresponding video or instructions will help everyone to do the work on replacing the front silent block with their own hands. However, you need to be extremely careful, because you can do great harm to your car.
This will lead to the fact that you have to pay double for your stinginess. But the price of "home" repair is lower than in a car service.