DIY repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2131

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2131 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

21 - cross member;
22 - adjusting washers;
23 - the axis of the upper lever;
24 - rubber-metal hinge (silent block) of the upper arm;
25 - rebound stroke buffer;
26 - bracket for rebound buffer;
27 - upper support spring cup;
28 - upper insulating spring gasket;
29 - spring;
30 - bolt for fastening the brace to the cross member;
31 - washers of the lower arm;
32 - axis of the lower arm;
33 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
34 - lower arm;
35 - bottom insulating spring gasket;
36 - lower support spring cup;
37 - compression stroke buffer;
38 - shock absorber;
39 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the body;
40 - stabilizer bar.

The front suspension is independent, on forked transverse steel levers, with helical coil springs, double-acting telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar.

Undercarriage specifications

The upper and lower levers have a similar design: at the ends of the "fork" there are cylindrical lugs for rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks), and on the opposite side there is a platform with three holes for fastening the ball joint. On the front branch of the upper arm there is a bump against which the rebound buffer rests at the maximum suspension travel, and on the lower arm there are four holes for attaching the lower support spring cup. The ball joints of the upper and lower arms are interchangeable and unified with the upper ball joints of the rear-wheel drive VAZ suspension. The support is attached to the arm together with the boot and pressure plate by three bolts with lock washers and nuts. The threaded ends of the pins of both the upper and lower bearings point downward and fit into the taper holes of the steering knuckle. The pins are secured with self-locking nuts. Thus, the steering knuckle can rotate about an axis passing through the centers of the pins of the ball joints.

Video (click to play).

Some malfunctions of the front suspension

The axle of the lower arm is a bolt that passes through the bushing in the suspension cross member and the rubber-metal arm pivots. Just like the upper ones, the lower hinges are pulled between two washers, but another thrust washer (thick) is added between the inner washer and the bushing, adjacent to the bushing, and several shims (thin). The thickness of the washer pack is selected at the factory; when dismantling the suspension, it is necessary to remember their number and location. It is permissible to change the number and location of washers only when it is necessary to restore the suspension geometry (for example, after an accident, replacing the cross member, etc.). In this case, the distance between the outer washer and the flange of the rubber-metal hinge sleeve after tightening its nut should be within 3–7.5 mm. In the event that it is impossible to adjust the caster angle of the pivot axis (see below) with intact suspension parts, you can transfer some of the washers from one end of the lever to the other.

The suspension cross member is a curved steel tubular girder to which steel forged brackets are welded on both sides. In the lower part of the bracket there is a bushing for the axle of the lower arm, and the upper part is made as a vertical platform with four pairs of holes for fastening bolts. An upper pair of bolts secures the upper arm axle to the cross member. The second one from the top - pulls together the engine support bracket, cross member, spar and rebound buffer bracket. A third pair of bolts tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member, and upper suspension spring mount. And, finally, the fourth - the cross member and the upper support of the suspension spring. For reliability, the fastening nuts of the upper support of the suspension springs, after tightening, are welded to the protruding threaded part of the bolts.

Two brackets with holes are also welded to the lower rear part of the cross member. Stretch braces (steel rods) are bolted to them, increasing the longitudinal rigidity of the structure. The rear (threaded) ends of the guy wires are attached to the bracket on the car body with two nuts and washers. When installing the brace, the inner nut is tightened until the washer touches the bracket, and the outer nut is tightened with the recommended torque.

The suspension spring is supported by the lower insulating pad and the upper support cup. A rubber gasket is installed between the upper support cup and the upper spring seat. The upper support is pulled together by four bolts with a suspension cross member, two bolts - with a body side member (welded into the side member) and one more - with a rebound buffer bracket (the latter is welded into the support itself). The upper spring seat is also welded to the compression buffer support leg (facing downwards). The compression buffer at maximum suspension travel rests against the lower arm, the rebound buffer against the bump on the upper arm. The lower spring seat is attached to the lower arm with four bolts, nuts and lock washers. Brackets for attaching the lower end of the shock absorber and anti-roll bar (behind the spring) are also welded to the lower cup. Since a rubber-metal hinge is pressed into the shock absorber eyelet, it is possible to tighten the bolt of its lower fastening only on a car under load. The upper end of the shock absorber is fastened to the bracket on the car body with a nut and washers through two rubber pads. It can be tightened in any suspension position.

The anti-roll bar is a curved spring steel bar. It reduces the roll of the vehicle when cornering. Through rubber cushions pressed by steel clips, it is fixed at two points to the body and to the brackets on the lower support spring cups.

Suspension repair mainly consists of replacing worn and damaged parts. Pay particular attention to the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints (anthers). If they are torn, immediately replace the covers and grease, otherwise the support will quickly fail. The backlash in the upper support can be determined by swinging the wheel when the suspension is compressed (for this, place a shoe 230 mm high under the lower arm closer to the ball joint). To diagnose the condition of the lower hinge, remove the wheel and, pushing the mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the support housing, create an alternating load, probing the movement of the support pin through the boot. Replace rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) when rubber bulges, tears, cracks or severe wear. When replacing the springs, make sure that they are of the same class (class A - unmarked, class B - with a black stripe on the outer surface of the coils, has a shorter length under load). It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension and class B on the rear, but not vice versa.

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1 - brake disc;
2 - wheel hub;
3 - hairpin;
4 - lower ball joint;
5 - cap;
6 - housing of the outer hinge of the drive;
7 - adjusting nut;
8 - tapered bushing;
9 - hub bearings;
10 - oil seals;
11 - dirt reflecting ring;
12 - rubber cushion of the stabilizer bar;
13 - clip for attaching the stabilizer bar;
14 - rotary fist;
15 - body;
16 - stretching;
17 - a protective cover for the ball pin;
18 - upper ball joint;
19 - cushions for fastening the shock absorber rod;
20 - upper arm;
21 - cross member;
22 - adjusting washers;
23 - the axis of the upper lever;
24 - rubber-metal hinge (silent block) of the upper arm;
25 - rebound stroke buffer;
26 - bracket for rebound buffer;
27 - upper support spring cup;
28 - upper insulating spring gasket;
29 - spring;
30 - bolt for fastening the brace to the cross member;
31 - washers of the lower arm;
32 - axis of the lower arm;
33 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
34 - lower arm;
35 - bottom insulating spring gasket;
36 - lower support spring cup;
37 - compression stroke buffer;
38 - shock absorber;
39 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the body;
40 - stabilizer bar.

The front suspension of the VAZ 2121 is independent, on forked transverse steel levers, with helical coil springs, double-acting telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar.

The upper and lower levers of the VAZ 2131 have a similar design: at the ends of the "fork" there are cylindrical lugs for rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks), and on the opposite side there is a platform with three holes for attaching a ball joint. On the front branch of the upper arm there is a bump against which the rebound buffer rests at the maximum suspension travel, and on the lower arm there are four holes for attaching the lower support spring cup.

The ball joints of the upper and lower arms are interchangeable and unified with the upper ball joints of the rear-wheel drive VAZ suspension. The support is attached to the arm together with the boot and pressure plate by three bolts with lock washers and nuts. The threaded ends of the pins of both the upper and lower bearings point downward and fit into the taper holes of the steering knuckle. The pins are secured with self-locking nuts. Thus, the steering knuckle can rotate about an axis passing through the centers of the pins of the ball joints.

The suspension arms, in turn, can rotate on the axles within the range of the VAZ 2131 rubber-metal hinges (limited by their elasticity). The upper arm pivot has two holes and threads at both ends. Bolts pass through the holes that secure the axle to the suspension cross member. Washers are installed on the bolts between the axle and the cross member for adjusting the camber angles and longitudinal inclination of the axle of rotation of the wheels (see below).

The threaded ends of the axle fit into the rubber-metal hinges of the lever. Washers are located on both sides of each hinge: the smaller (flat) one on the inside, the larger one (convex outward) on the outside. The self-locking nuts of the upper arm axle are finally tightened only when the suspension is compressed (on a loaded car), otherwise the hinge will not be installed correctly and quickly fail.

In this case, the distance between the outer washer and the flange of the rubber-metal hinge sleeve after tightening its nut should be within 3–7.5 mm. In the event that it is impossible to adjust the caster angle of the pivot axis (see below) with intact suspension parts, you can transfer some of the washers from one end of the lever to the other.

The cross member of the VAZ 2121 suspension is a curved steel tubular beam, to which steel forged brackets are welded on both sides. In the lower part of the bracket there is a bushing for the axle of the lower arm, and the upper part is made as a vertical platform with four pairs of holes for fastening bolts.

An upper pair of bolts secures the upper arm axle to the cross member. The second one from the top - pulls together the engine support bracket, cross member, spar and rebound buffer bracket. A third pair of bolts tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member, and upper suspension spring mount. And, finally, the fourth - the cross member and the upper support of the suspension spring. For reliability, the fastening nuts of the upper support of the suspension springs, after tightening, are welded to the protruding threaded part of the bolts.

Two brackets with holes are also welded to the lower rear part of the cross member of the niva 2121. Niva 2131 stretch marks (steel rods) are bolted to them, increasing the longitudinal rigidity of the structure. The rear (threaded) ends of the guy wires are attached to the bracket on the car body with two nuts and washers. When installing the brace, the inner nut is tightened until the washer touches the bracket, and the outer nut is tightened with the recommended torque.

The spring of the suspension of the Niva 2121 rests on the lower insulating gasket and the upper support cup. A rubber gasket is installed between the upper support cup and the upper spring seat. The upper support is pulled together by four bolts with a suspension cross member, two bolts - with a body side member (welded into the side member) and one more - with a rebound buffer bracket (the latter is welded into the support itself). The upper spring seat is also welded to the compression buffer support leg (facing downwards).

The compression buffer at maximum suspension travel rests against the lower arm, the rebound buffer against the bump on the upper arm. The lower spring seat is attached to the lower arm with four bolts, nuts and lock washers. Brackets for attaching the lower end of the shock absorber and anti-roll bar (behind the spring) are also welded to the lower cup.

Since a rubber-metal hinge is pressed into the shock absorber eyelet, it is possible to tighten the bolt of its lower fastening only on a car under load. The upper end of the shock absorber is fastened to the bracket on the car body with a nut and washers through two rubber pads. It can be tightened in any suspension position.

The anti-roll bar is a curved spring steel bar. It reduces the roll of the car Niva 2121 when cornering. Through rubber cushions, pressed by steel clips, it is fixed at two points to the body and to the brackets on the lower support spring cups.

Niva 2131 suspension repair mainly consists of replacing worn and damaged parts. Pay particular attention to the condition of the protective covers of the ball joints (anthers). If they are torn, immediately replace the covers and grease, otherwise the support will quickly fail. The backlash in the upper support can be determined by swinging the wheel when the suspension is compressed (for this, place a shoe 230 mm high under the lower arm closer to the ball joint).

To diagnose the condition of the lower hinge, remove the wheel and, pushing the mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the support housing, create an alternating load, probing the movement of the support pin through the boot. Replace rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) when rubber bulges, tears, cracks or severe wear.

When replacing the springs, make sure that they are of the same class (class A - unmarked, class B - with a black stripe on the outer surface of the coils, has a shorter length under load). It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension and class B on the rear, but not vice versa.

Spacer over the top ball 40mm. under the platform 30mm, 28mm, 23mm, 11mm. Shock absorber gas oil KYB excel-g shniva.

Operation of the front suspension of the Niva in extreme conditions.

Front suspension mounted on a vehicle (rear view)1. Place the vehicle on a lift or inspection ditch, apply the parking brake, open the hood and remove the spare wheel.
2. Place the stops under the rear wheels and remove the front wheels. 4. Disconnect the stabilizer bar (6) from the lower suspension arms (see Fig. Front suspension mounted on the car (rear view)).
5. Disconnect the braces 5 from the body brackets and cross members.
6. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the lower suspension arms.
7. Remove the protective plate for the engine crankcase and splash guard.
8. Remove the front brake caliper from each side, without disconnecting the brake hoses, and hang it so that the caliper does not hang on the hoses.
9. Compress the suspension spring until the lower arm is completely unloaded.
10. Disconnect the ball joint from the lower arm and remove the spring, smoothly relieving it, repeat the operations for the other suspension unit.
11. Disconnect the axle 49 of the upper arm from the bracket 7 of the suspension cross member and remove the upper arm 46 complete with the steering knuckle, wheel hub, front brake and outer hinge housing (see Fig. Front suspension).
12. Disconnect the engine mount rubber mounts from the cross member brackets.
13. Place a hydraulic jack with a cross member fixing device under the suspension cross member and, supporting the engine with the cross member 67.7820.9514 or hoist, disconnect the rebound buffer bracket 47 and the suspension cross member from the body side member.
14. Remove the cross member 1 assembled with the lower levers 4.1. Install units and parts of the suspension in the reverse order of removal.
2. Springs on the suspension are installed only of one class (class A - without marking, class B - with black marking on the outer surface of the coils).
3. It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension, if class B springs are installed on the rear suspension.
4. After assembling and installing the suspension, check the wheel alignment and toe angles.1 - lower support spring cup;
2 - lower arm;
3 - the axis of the lower arm;
4 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
5 - spring;
6 - upper support cup;
7 - an insulating spring gasket;
8 - compression buffer;
9 - compression travel stop;
10 - suspension cross member;
11 - cross member bracket bushing;
12 - cross member bracket;
13 - engine mounting bracket;
14 - upper spring support;1. If, when repairing the suspension, it is necessary to completely disassemble its components, then it is more convenient to start it directly on the car, after removing the protective plate of the crankcase and the mudguard.
2. Unscrew the nut of the upper ball joint pin 41 and release the hoses from the brackets (see Fig. Front suspension).
3. Having bend the petals of the protective casing, unscrew the bolts securing the caliper guide and take it together with the caliper to the side. Warning
To protect the hoses from damage, do not let the caliper hang from the hoses.4. Using a mandrel 67.7823.9514, remove the hub cap and unscrew the wheel bearing nut.
5. Remove the front wheel hub assembly with the brake disc using the pusher 67.7823.9516.
6. Remove the front brake guard.
7. Remove the front suspension shock absorber.
8. Compress the suspension spring until the lower arm is completely unloaded by lowering the lower suspension arm onto the stand.
9. Disconnect the ball joint housing from the lower and upper suspension arms and remove the steering knuckle.
10. Smoothly relieve the suspension spring and remove it.
11. Using a pusher 67.7823.9515, knock out the axle and disconnect the lower suspension arm from the cross member.
12. Disconnect the upper lever axle from the cross member and remove the axle assembly with the lever.

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Warning
Before removing the axles of the upper and lower arms, count the number of washers at each end of the axle of the lower arm and on the bolts of the axle of the upper arm in order to put them in their original places when installing the axles of the arms.thirteen.Remove the rebound bumper bracket and cross member.
14. Using a puller 67.7824.9516, press out the pins of the ball joints from the holes of the steering knuckle.1. Assembly of suspension assemblies is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.
2. When assembling the wheel hub, put a layer of Litol-24 grease into the bearing cages and apply it evenly into the cavity of the steering knuckle between the bearings in the amount of 40 g for each knuckle.
3. When installing cross-member braces, tighten the inner nut until the gap between the washer and the bracket 3 is selected (see Fig. Front suspension mounted on the car (rear view)), and the outer nut - by the torque specified in subsection 1.8.
4. To prevent incorrect distribution of forces in the rubber-metal hinges, tighten the nuts of the lever axles under a static vehicle load of 3140 N (320 kgf).
5. Then check and adjust the wheel alignment and toe angles. Front suspension elements 1 - brake disc;
2 - wheel hub;
3 - hairpin;
4 - lower ball joint;
5 - cap;
6 - housing of the outer hinge of the drive;
7 - adjusting nut;
8 - tapered bushing;
9 - hub bearings;
10 - oil seals;
11 - dirt reflecting ring;
12 - rubber cushion of the stabilizer bar;
13 - clip for attaching the stabilizer bar;
14 - rotary fist;
15 - body;
16 - stretching;
17 - a protective cover for the ball pin;
18 - upper ball joint;
19 - cushions for fastening the shock absorber rod;
20 - upper arm;21 - cross member;
22 - adjusting washers;
23 - the axis of the upper lever;
24 - rubber-metal hinge (silent block) of the upper arm;
25 - rebound stroke buffer;
26 - bracket for rebound buffer;
27 - upper support spring cup;
28 - upper insulating spring gasket;
29 - spring;
30 - bolt for fastening the brace to the cross member;
31 - washers of the lower arm;
32 - axis of the lower arm;
33 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
34 - lower arm;
35 - bottom insulating spring gasket;
36 - lower support spring cup;
37 - compression stroke buffer;
38 - shock absorber;
39 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the body;
40 - stabilizer bar.We assemble and install the front wheel hub on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car in the reverse order, taking into account the following features. First of all, prepare a standard set of tools and do the following [...]After the hub is removed, you can start replacing the front wheel hub bearing on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 cars. To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools and do [...]Removing the front wheel hub on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it, as well as to replace the hub bearing, after checking the clearance in the bearing and its [...]Periodically during operation, it is necessary to check the clearance in the front wheel hub bearings on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 cars. If the clearance exceeds the recommended values, then an adjustment is made. […]Removing the cross member on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is carried out to replace it or when performing other repairs, in which its presence will interfere with the course of its implementation. Prepare a standard set [...]Removing the front suspension brace on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it in case of deformation or when performing other various works in which its presence will interfere [...]The anti-roll bar on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is removed to replace it with a new one in case of cracks, deformation, to replace rubber bushings and their clips, and so [...]Replacing the silent blocks of the lower arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed every time the rubber bushings crack, the rubber loses its elasticity, and other damage begins to squeeze it out. For execution […]Removing the lower suspension arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed for the same reasons as removing the upper arm, that is, to replace it in case of mechanical damage, [...]After the old blocks have been removed, you can start installing new silent blocks on the upper suspension arm of the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 cars. To carry out the repair work, you will need the same standard [...]After the upper arm is removed, you can start replacing the old silent blocks. To carry out repair work on removing the silent blocks of the upper suspension arm on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 cars, prepare [...]Removal of the upper suspension arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it with a new one in case of mechanical deformation, crack detection, replacement of silent blocks or when performing other work, [...]Removal of the front suspension springs on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is carried out to replace them in case of mechanical damage, when one of the coils of the spring bursts, or as a result of its extension, [...]Removal of the lower ball joint on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it, replace a rubber boot or when performing other repair work in which its presence will interfere [...]A characteristic feature indicating the need to replace the upper ball joint on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is the appearance of a dull metal knock in the area of the ball housing attachment, which is especially bright [...]Replacing the front shock absorbers on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed for the same reasons as removing and replacing the rear ones. That is, in the event of an oil leak, deformation and [...]We hang out and remove the front wheel.Disconnect the upper ball joint from the lever (see Removing the upper ball joint).1. Using the "19" head, unscrew the nuts of the two bolts securing the lever to the cross member bracket.

2. We hold the bolts against turning with a wrench of the same dimension (the generator has been removed for clarity).3. Remove the lever assembly with the axle.4. Washers are installed on the bolts between the axle and the cross member bracket to adjust the caster and camber angles of the front wheels.5. Clamping the lever axis in a vice, turn off the two axle nuts with a 22 key.7. To press out the silent blocks, we install a puller on the lever so that its cup rests on the end face of the lever eyelet, and the puller bolt with an internal thread is screwed onto the axle.8. Tightening the nut of the puller bolt (while keeping the bolt from turning), ...9. . We press out the silent block from the lever.Having removed the silent block from the axle, install it in the eyes of the lever and press out the second silent block with a puller.10. In the absence of a puller, prying the outer sleeve of the silent block with a chisel.12. To install new silent blocks with a cup puller, press one silent block into the lever eyelet.13. Before pressing in the second silent block, clamp the lever in a vice, insert the axle with thrust washers into the lugs of the lever and screw the nut onto the axle from the side of the pressed-in silent block.We insert the second silent block into the hole of the eyelet.Insert a mandrel made from a suitable piece of pipe (160 mm long, 42 mm inner diameter, 32 mm wide slot) into the spacer between the lugs of the lever.14. We rest the cup of the stripper against the end of the outer sleeve of the silent block.15. Screwing the puller bolt onto the lever axis, press in the silent block16. In the absence of a puller, we rest the end face of the lever eyelet on the vise jaws.We press in the silent block with a tool head of a suitable size (a piece of pipe).Install the lever in reverse orderThe nuts for fastening the silent blocks on the axle are finally tightened in the "car on wheels" position Image - DIY repair of the front suspension of a VAZ 2131

Removal of the front suspension springs on a Niva 2121 and 2131 car is performed in case of temporary wear and tear, which is accompanied by a subsidence of the body, or as a result of mechanical damage, as well as to replace rubber cushions, which also regulate the height of the body. It is recommended to replace the springs on both sides at once, regardless of the condition of the second, so as not to violate the main technical characteristics of the front suspension. To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools, then do the following sequence of actions:

We hang out the side to be repaired and remove the wheel.
Disconnect the lower shock absorber mount from the lower arm. Then we unscrew the nuts and removing the bracket, we disengage the anti-roll bar from the engagement with the studs.
Next, we loosen the lower arm axle nut by several turns.
We install a rigid or adjustable stop under the lower arm and disconnect the lower ball joint from it.
Now, when everything superfluous is disconnected, it is necessary to gradually lower the stop installed under the lever, if it is adjustable, or if it is rigid, then gradually raise the car body with a jack, thereby weakening the spring until it can be pulled out.

To replace the lower support spring cup, it is necessary to unscrew the nuts of the three bolts of its fastening with the socket head, keeping the bolts themselves from turning with another wrench by seventeen, and then remove the cup.

This completes the repair work to replace the front suspension springs on the Niva 2121 and 2131. Carry out the necessary repairs, and then carry out the installation in the reverse order. For the convenience of mounting the rubber spring cushions, they can be secured with insulating tape or thread, while making sure that the last coil of the spring clearly coincides with the corresponding groove on the cushion.

Replacing the silent blocks of the lower arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed every time the rubber bushings crack, the rubber loses its elasticity, and other damage begins to squeeze it out. For repair work, prepare a standard set of tools, a special puller for blocks. If you have everything you need, do the following simple sequence of actions:

After removing the lever from the vehicle, secure it in a vise.
Install the cup puller and press out the old block from the lever eyelet. In the absence of a puller, the block can be knocked out with a hammer, with which we strike directly at the end, while the lever itself is installed on the jaws of the vice, which we first move apart to a distance equal to the diameter of the silent block itself, even a little more.

We remove the old block, after which we press in a new one with a cup puller.
Also, in the absence of a puller, we press in a new piece of an iron pipe of a suitable diameter.

This completes the repair work on removing the silent blocks of the lower suspension arm on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 cars.

Today I picked up the length of the short rods and tried them with my family, short and elongated, it is possible from an old age, just the right length.
Left long, checked imitating diagonal hanging, all photos with long arms. With short ones, the rear wheel was not evenly pressed against the arch. In my opinion, they clung to the front edge, and so everything is smooth.
I drove over both with the right side and with the left in turn, did not bother with the rear wheels, I was tired of dragging the channel.
Left side first:I came to the conclusion that almost everything is fine, but the front springs need to be definitely replaced, and this despite the fact that there is a front stability stabilizer from a Chevrolet Niva, it is more powerful than the standard one and is 2 mm thicker.
The BRONTO LYNX has a three-door diagonal hanging of 50 cm, and this despite the fact that there are shock absorbers with increased travel, the arches are cut out and the wheels are in my opinion 235 75 15.The idea of updating the suspension arose two years ago, when there was almost no compression travel and even in small pits the lower levers rested against the bumpers, and last year the springs “sat down” completely and almost all the time they had to ride on the so-called buffers compression. I do not advise anyone to reach such a state, because the ride is very hard and unpleasant, all the energy of the blows goes to the spars. There was no time to study, the car had to be used every week, and only in the early spring of this year, thanks to the warm weather, we managed to accomplish our plan.