Do-it-yourself repair of the front suspension of the vaz 2131

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the front suspension of a vaz 2131 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

21 - cross member;
22 - adjusting washers;
23 - the axis of the upper arm;
24 - rubber-metal hinge (silent block) of the upper arm;
25 - rebound stroke buffer;
26 – rebound buffer bracket;
27 - the upper support cup of the spring;
28 - the upper insulating gasket of the spring;
29 - spring;
30 – a bolt of fastening of an extension to a crossbar;
31 - washers of the lower arm;
32 - the axis of the lower arm;
33 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
34 - lower arm;
35 - the lower insulating gasket of the spring;
36 - the lower support cup of the spring;
37 - compression stroke buffer;
38 - shock absorber;
39 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the body;
40 - stabilizer bar.

The front suspension is independent, on forked transverse steel arms, with helical coil springs, double-acting telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers and anti-roll bar.

Chassis specifications

The upper and lower arms have a similar design: at the ends of the "fork" there are cylindrical lugs for rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks), and on the opposite side there is a platform with three holes for mounting the ball joint. On the front branch of the upper arm there is a tide against which the rebound buffer rests at maximum suspension travel, and on the lower arm there are four holes for attaching the lower spring support cup. The ball bearings of the upper and lower arms are interchangeable and unified with the upper ball bearings of the suspension of rear-wheel drive VAZs. The support is attached to the lever together with the anther and the pressure plate with three bolts with spring washers and nuts. The threaded ends of the pins of both the upper and lower supports are directed downwards and enter the taper holes of the steering knuckle. The pins are secured with self-locking nuts. Thus, the steering knuckle can be rotated about an axis passing through the centers of the pins of the ball bearings.

Video (click to play).

Some front suspension problems

The axis of the lower arm is a bolt passing through a bushing in the suspension cross member and rubber-metal hinges of the arm. Just like the upper, the lower hinges are tightened between two washers, but between the inner washer and the bushing, one more thrust washer (thick) adjacent to the bushing, and several adjusting (thin) ones are added. The thickness of the package of washers is selected at the factory; when dismantling the suspension, it is necessary to remember their number and location. Changing the number and location of the washers is permissible only if it is necessary to restore the geometry of the suspension (for example, after an accident, replacing a cross member, etc.). In this case, the distance between the outer washer and the flanging of the bushing of the rubber-metal hinge after tightening its nut should be within 3–7.5 mm. In the event that it is impossible to adjust the angle of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation (see below) with serviceable suspension parts, you can transfer some of the washers from one end of the lever to the other.

The suspension crossbar is a curved steel tubular beam, to which forged steel brackets are welded on both sides. In the lower part of the bracket there is a bushing of the lower arm axle, and the upper part is made as a vertical platform with four pairs of holes for mounting bolts. The upper pair of bolts secures the upper arm axle to the cross member. The second from the top - tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member, spars and rebound buffer bracket. The third pair of bolts tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member and upper suspension spring mount. And, finally, the fourth - the cross member and the upper support of the suspension spring. For reliability, the nuts for fastening the upper support of the suspension spring, after tightening, are welded to the protruding threaded part of the bolts.

Two brackets with holes are also welded to the lower rear part of the cross member. Stretch marks (steel rods) are bolted to them, increasing the longitudinal rigidity of the structure. The rear (threaded) ends of the braces are attached to the bracket on the car body with two nuts and washers. When installing the brace, the inner nut is tightened until the washer touches the bracket, and the outer nut is tightened to the recommended torque.

The suspension spring rests on the lower insulating gasket and the upper support cup. A rubber gasket is installed between the upper support cup and the upper spring seat. The upper support is tightened with four bolts with the suspension cross member, two bolts - with the body side member (welded into the side member) and one more - with the rebound buffer bracket (the latter is welded into the support itself). The compression buffer support post is also welded to the upper spring support (it is facing down). The compression buffer at the maximum suspension travel rests on the lower arm, the rebound buffer - on the tide on the upper arm. The lower spring support cup is attached to the lower arm with four bolts, nuts and spring washers. Brackets for attaching the lower end of the shock absorber and anti-roll bar (behind the spring) are also welded to the lower cup. Since a rubber-metal hinge is pressed into the eye of the shock absorber, it is possible to tighten the bolt of its lower fastening only on the car under load. The upper end of the shock absorber is attached to the bracket on the car body through two rubber cushions with a nut and washers. It can be tightened in any suspension position.

The anti-roll bar is a curved spring steel bar. It reduces the roll of the car when cornering. Through rubber cushions pressed by steel clips, it is fixed at two points to the body and to the brackets on the lower support cups of the springs.

Suspension repair mainly consists of replacing worn and damaged parts. Pay special attention to the condition of the protective covers of the ball bearings (anthers). If they are torn, immediately replace the covers and grease, otherwise the support will quickly fail. The play in the upper support can be determined by rocking the wheel with a compressed suspension (to do this, place a block 230 mm high under the lower arm closer to the ball joint). To diagnose the condition of the lower hinge, remove the wheel and, after inserting the mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the support housing, create a variable load by feeling the movement of the support pin through the anther. Replace rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) when rubber bulges, tears, cracks or heavy wear. When replacing springs, make sure that they are of the same class (class A - no markings, class B - with a black stripe on the outer surface of the coils, has a shorter length under load). It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension and class B on the rear, but not vice versa.

1 - brake disc;
2 - wheel hub;
3 - hairpin;
4 - lower ball bearing;
5 - cap;
6 - housing of the outer hinge of the drive;
7 - adjusting nut;
8 - conical bushing;
9 - hub bearings;
10 - glands;
11 – mud-reflecting ring;
12 - rubber cushion of the stabilizer bar;
13 – clip fastening the stabilizer bar;
14 - steering knuckle;
15 - body;
16 - stretching;
17 - protective cover of the ball pin;
18 - upper ball bearing;
19 - shock absorber rod mounting pads;
20 – the top lever;
21 - cross member;
22 - adjusting washers;
23 - the axis of the upper arm;
24 - rubber-metal hinge (silent block) of the upper arm;
25 - rebound stroke buffer;
26 – rebound buffer bracket;
27 - the upper support cup of the spring;
28 - the upper insulating gasket of the spring;
29 - spring;
30 – a bolt of fastening of an extension to a crossbar;
31 - washers of the lower arm;
32 - the axis of the lower arm;
33 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
34 - lower arm;
35 - the lower insulating gasket of the spring;
36 - the lower support cup of the spring;
37 - compression stroke buffer;
38 - shock absorber;
39 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the body;
40 - stabilizer bar.

The front suspension of the VAZ 2121 is independent, on forked transverse steel arms, with helical coil springs, double-acting telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers and an anti-roll bar.

The upper and lower arms of the VAZ 2131 have a similar design: at the ends of the “fork” there are cylindrical lugs for rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks), and on the opposite side there is a platform with three holes for attaching the ball joint. On the front branch of the upper arm there is a tide against which the rebound buffer rests at maximum suspension travel, and on the lower arm there are four holes for attaching the lower spring support cup.

The ball bearings of the upper and lower arms are interchangeable and unified with the upper ball bearings of the suspension of rear-wheel drive VAZs. The support is attached to the lever together with the anther and the pressure plate with three bolts with spring washers and nuts. The threaded ends of the pins of both the upper and lower supports are directed downwards and enter the taper holes of the steering knuckle. The pins are secured with self-locking nuts. Thus, the steering knuckle can be rotated about an axis passing through the centers of the pins of the ball bearings.

The suspension arms, in turn, can rotate on the axles within the travel of the rubber-metal hinges of the VAZ 2131 (limited by their elasticity). The upper arm axle has two holes and threads on both ends. Bolts pass through the holes, securing the axle to the suspension cross member. On the bolts between the axle and the cross member, washers are installed to adjust the camber angles and the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation of the wheels (see below).

The threaded ends of the axle are included in the rubber-metal hinges of the lever. Washers are located on both sides of each hinge: the smaller (flat) one is on the inside, the larger one (bulge outwards) is on the outside. The self-locking nuts of the upper arm axle are finally tightened only when the suspension is compressed (on a loaded vehicle), otherwise the hinge will not be installed correctly and will quickly fail.

In this case, the distance between the outer washer and the flanging of the bushing of the rubber-metal hinge after tightening its nut should be within 3–7.5 mm. If it is not possible to adjust the pitch angle of the steering axis (seebelow) with serviceable suspension parts, you can transfer some of the washers from one end of the lever to the other.

The suspension crossbar of the VAZ 2121 is a curved steel tubular beam, to which forged steel brackets are welded on both sides. In the lower part of the bracket there is a bushing of the lower arm axle, and the upper part is made as a vertical platform with four pairs of holes for mounting bolts.

The upper pair of bolts secures the upper arm axle to the cross member. The second from the top - tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member, spars and rebound buffer bracket. The third pair of bolts tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member and upper suspension spring mount. And, finally, the fourth - the cross member and the upper support of the suspension spring. For reliability, the nuts for fastening the upper support of the suspension spring, after tightening, are welded to the protruding threaded part of the bolts.

Two brackets with holes are also welded to the lower rear part of the Niva 2121 cross member. Stretch marks Niva 2131 (steel rods) are bolted to them, increasing the longitudinal rigidity of the structure. The rear (threaded) ends of the braces are attached to the bracket on the car body with two nuts and washers. When installing the brace, the inner nut is tightened until the washer touches the bracket, and the outer nut is tightened to the recommended torque.

The Niva 2121 suspension spring rests on the lower insulating gasket and the upper support cup. A rubber gasket is installed between the upper support cup and the upper spring seat. The upper support is tightened with four bolts with the suspension cross member, two bolts - with the body side member (welded into the side member) and one more - with the rebound buffer bracket (the latter is welded into the support itself). The compression buffer support post is also welded to the upper spring support (it is facing down).

The compression buffer at the maximum suspension travel rests on the lower arm, the rebound buffer - on the tide on the upper arm. The lower spring support cup is attached to the lower arm with four bolts, nuts and spring washers. Brackets for attaching the lower end of the shock absorber and anti-roll bar (behind the spring) are also welded to the lower cup.

Since a rubber-metal hinge is pressed into the eye of the shock absorber, it is possible to tighten the bolt of its lower fastening only on the car under load. The upper end of the shock absorber is attached to the bracket on the car body through two rubber cushions with a nut and washers. It can be tightened in any suspension position.

The anti-roll bar is a curved spring steel bar. It reduces the rolls of the Niva 2121 car when cornering. Through rubber cushions pressed by steel clips, it is fixed at two points to the body and to the brackets on the lower support cups of the springs.

Niva 2131 suspension repair mainly consists in replacing worn and damaged parts. Pay special attention to the condition of the protective covers of the ball bearings (anthers). If they are torn, immediately replace the covers and grease, otherwise the support will quickly fail. The play in the upper support can be determined by rocking the wheel with a compressed suspension (to do this, place a block 230 mm high under the lower arm closer to the ball joint).

To diagnose the condition of the lower hinge, remove the wheel and, after inserting the mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the support housing, create a variable load by feeling the movement of the support pin through the anther. Replace rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) when rubber bulges, tears, cracks or heavy wear.

When replacing springs, make sure that they are of the same class (class A - no markings, class B - with a black stripe on the outer surface of the coils, has a shorter length under load). It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension and class B on the rear, but not vice versa.

Spacer over top ball joint 40mm. under the platform 30mm, 28mm, 23mm, 11mm. Shock absorber gas oil KYB excel-g shniva.

The work of the Niva front suspension in extreme conditions.

Front suspension mounted on the car (rear view)1. Place the vehicle on a lift or pit, set the parking brake, open the hood and remove the spare wheel.
2. Chock the rear wheels and remove the front wheels. 4. Disconnect the stabilizer bar (6) from the lower suspension arms (see Fig. Front suspension mounted on the vehicle (rear view)).
5. Disconnect extensions 5 from the body brackets and cross members.
6. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the lower suspension arms.
7. Remove the protective plate of the crankcase and mudguard.
8. Remove the front brake caliper from each side without disconnecting the brake hoses, and hang it so that the caliper does not hang on the hoses.
9. Compress the suspension spring until the lower arm is completely unloaded.
10. Disconnect the ball joint from the lower arm and remove the spring, smoothly unloading it, repeat the operations for another suspension unit.
11. Disconnect the axle 49 of the upper arm from the bracket 7 of the suspension cross member and remove the upper arm 46 complete with the steering knuckle, wheel hub, front brake and outer hinge housing (see Fig. Front suspension).
12. Disconnect the engine mount rubber pads from the cross member brackets.
13. Place a hydraulic jack with a device for fixing the cross member under the suspension cross member and, supporting the engine with a traverse 67.7820.9514 or a hoist, disconnect the rebound buffer bracket 47 and the suspension cross member from the body side member.
14. Remove the cross member 1 complete with the lower levers 4.1. To establish knots and details of a suspension bracket follows in an order, the return to removal.
2. Springs on the suspension are installed only in one class (class A - without marking, class B - with black marking on the outer surface of the coils).
3. It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension if class B springs are installed on the rear suspension.
4. After assembling and installing the suspension, check the angles of installation and convergence of the wheels.1 - the lower support cup of the spring;
2 - lower arm;
3 - the axis of the lower arm;
4 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
5 - spring;
6 - upper support cup;
7 - insulating gasket of the spring;
8 – compression buffer;
9 - compression stroke limiter;
10 - suspension cross member;
11 - bushing bracket cross;
12 - cross member bracket;
13 - engine mount bracket;
14 - upper spring support;1. If during the repair of the suspension a complete disassembly of its components is necessary, then it is more convenient to start it directly on the car, after removing the crankcase protective plate and mudguard.
2. Turn away a nut of a finger of the top spherical hinge 41 and release hoses from brackets (see fig. Front suspension bracket).
3. Having unbent petals of a protective casing, turn out bolts of fastening of directing a support and take away it in gathering with a support aside. Warning
To protect the hoses from damage, do not let the caliper hang on the hoses.4. Using mandrel 67.7823.9514, remove the hub cap and unscrew the wheel bearing nut.
5. Remove the front wheel hub assembly with the brake disc using the extractor 67.7823.9516.
6. Remove a protective casing of a forward brake.
7. Remove the front suspension shock absorber.
8. Compress the suspension spring until the lower arm is completely unloaded by lowering the lower suspension arm onto the stand.
9. Disconnect the ball joint housing from the lower and upper suspension arms and remove the steering knuckle.
10. Slowly unload the suspension spring and remove it.
11. Using ejector 67.7823.9515, knock out the axle and disconnect the lower suspension arm from the cross member.
12. Disconnect the upper arm axle from the cross member and remove the axle assembly with the arm.

Warning
Before removing the upper and lower arm axles, count the number of washers at each end of the lower arm axle and on the upper arm axle mounting bolts so that when installing the arm axles, put them in their original places.13. Remove the rebound buffer bracket and cross member.
14. Using a puller 67.7824.9516, press out the fingers of the ball joints from the holes of the steering knuckle.1. Assembly of suspension units is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.
2.When assembling the wheel hub, put a layer of Litol-24 grease in the bearing separators and apply it in an even layer into the cavity of the steering knuckle between the bearings in the amount of 40 g for each knuckle.
3. When installing cross member extensions, wrap the inner nut until the gap between the washer and bracket 3 is selected (see Fig. Front suspension mounted on the vehicle (rear view)), and the outer nut with the moment specified in subsection 1.8.
4. To prevent incorrect distribution of forces in the rubber-metal hinges, tighten the nuts of the lever axles under the vehicle's static load of 3140 N (320 kgf).
5. Then check and adjust the angles of installation and convergence of the wheels. Front suspension elements 1 - brake disc;
2 - wheel hub;
3 - hairpin;
4 - lower ball bearing;
5 - cap;
6 - housing of the outer hinge of the drive;
7 - adjusting nut;
8 - conical bushing;
9 - hub bearings;
10 - glands;
11 – mud-reflecting ring;
12 - rubber cushion of the stabilizer bar;
13 – clip fastening the stabilizer bar;
14 - steering knuckle;
15 - body;
16 - stretching;
17 - protective cover of the ball pin;
18 - upper ball bearing;
19 - shock absorber rod mounting pads;
20 – the top lever;21 - cross member;
22 - adjusting washers;
23 - the axis of the upper arm;
24 - rubber-metal hinge (silent block) of the upper arm;
25 - rebound stroke buffer;
26 – rebound buffer bracket;
27 - the upper support cup of the spring;
28 - the upper insulating gasket of the spring;
29 - spring;
30 – a bolt of fastening of an extension to a crossbar;
31 - washers of the lower arm;
32 - the axis of the lower arm;
33 - rubber-metal hinge of the lower arm;
34 - lower arm;
35 - the lower insulating gasket of the spring;
36 - the lower support cup of the spring;
37 - compression stroke buffer;
38 - shock absorber;
39 - bracket for attaching the stabilizer bar to the body;
40 - stabilizer bar.We assemble and install the front wheel hub on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car in the reverse order, taking into account the following features. First of all, prepare a standard set of tools and do the following […]After the hub is removed, you can start replacing the front wheel hub bearing on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car. To perform repair work, prepare a standard set of tools and […]The removal of the front wheel hub on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it, as well as to replace the hub bearing, after checking the clearance in the bearing and […]Periodically during operation, it is necessary to check the clearance in the front wheel hub bearings on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car. If the clearance exceeds the recommended values, then adjustment is made. […]The removal of the cross member on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is carried out to replace it or when performing other repairs, in which its presence will interfere with the course of its implementation. Prepare a standard set […]Removing the stretching of the front suspension on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it in case of deformation or when performing various other works in which its presence will interfere […]The anti-roll bar on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is removed to replace it with a new one in case of cracks, deformation, to replace rubber bushings and their clips, as well as […]The replacement of the silent blocks of the lower arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is carried out every time the rubber bushings crack, the rubber loses its elasticity, it begins to squeeze out and other damage. For execution […]The removal of the lower suspension arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed for the same reasons as the removal of the upper arm, that is, to replace it in case of mechanical damage, […]After the old blocks have been removed, you can begin to install new silent blocks on the upper suspension arm of the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car. To perform repairs, you will need the same standard […]After the upper arm is removed, you can begin to replace the old silent blocks. To carry out repair work on the removal of silent blocks of the upper suspension arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car, prepare […]The removal of the upper suspension arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is carried out to replace it with a new one in case of mechanical deformations, crack detection, replacement of silent blocks or when performing other work, […]The removal of the front suspension springs on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is carried out to replace them in case of mechanical damage, when one of the coils of the spring bursts, or as a result of its extension, […]The removal of the lower ball joint on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed to replace it, replace the rubber boot, or perform other repairs in which its presence will interfere […]A characteristic sign indicating the need to replace the upper ball joint on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is the appearance of a dull metallic knock in the area of \u200b\u200bmounting the ball housing, which is especially […]Replacing the front shock absorbers on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is performed for the same reasons as removing and replacing the rear ones. That is, in the event of an oil leak, deformation and […]Hang and remove the front wheel.We disconnect the upper ball joint from the lever (see Removing the upper ball joint).1. Using the “19” head, unscrew the nuts of the two bolts securing the lever to the cross member bracket.

2. We hold the bolts from turning with a key of the same dimension (the generator is removed for clarity).3. Remove the lever assembly with the axle.4. On the bolts between the axle and the cross member bracket, washers are installed to adjust the angles of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation and the camber of the front wheels.5. Clamping the axis of the lever in a vise, use the “22” key to unscrew the two nuts of the axis.7. To press out silent blocks, we install a puller on the lever so that its cup rests on the end of the eye of the lever, and we screw the puller bolt onto the axle with an internal thread.8. Tightening the puller bolt nut (while keeping the bolt from turning), ...9. . press out the silent block from the lever.Having removed the silent block from the axle, we install it in the eyelets of the lever and press out the second silent block with a puller.10. In the absence of a puller, prying the outer sleeve of the silent block with a chisel.12. To install new silent blocks with a cup puller, we press one silent block into the eye of the lever.13. Before pressing the second silent block, we clamp the lever in a vise, insert the axle with thrust washers into the eyelets of the lever and screw the nut onto the axle from the side of the pressed silent block.We insert the second silent block into the eye hole.We insert a mandrel made from a suitable piece of pipe (160 mm long, 42 mm inner diameter, 32 mm slot width) into the spacer between the lever eyes.14. We rest the puller cup against the end of the outer sleeve of the silent block.15. Screwing the bolt of the puller onto the axis of the lever, we press in the silent block16. In the absence of a puller, we rest the end of the eye of the lever on the vise jaws.We press in the silent block with a tool head of a suitable size (a piece of pipe).Install the lever in reverse order.We finally tighten the nuts for fastening the silent blocks on the axle in the “car on wheels” position Image - Do-it-yourself repair of the front suspension of the vaz 2131

The removal of the front suspension springs on a Niva 2121 and 2131 car is performed in case of their temporary wear, which is accompanied by a body settling, or as a result of mechanical damage, as well as to replace rubber cushions, which also regulate the height of the body.It is recommended to replace the springs on both sides at once, regardless of the condition of the second, so as not to violate the main technical characteristics of the front suspension. To perform repair work, prepare a standard set of tools, and then do the following sequence of actions:

We hang out the repaired side and remove the wheel.
Disconnect the lower shock absorber mount from the lower arm. Then we unscrew the nuts and, having removed the bracket, disengage the anti-roll bar from the studs.
Next, loosen the lower arm axle nut a few turns.
We install a rigid or adjustable stop under the lower arm and disconnect the lower ball joint from it.
Now that everything superfluous has been disconnected, it is necessary to gradually lower the stop installed under the lever, if it is adjustable, or if it is rigid, then gradually raise the car body with a jack, thereby weakening the spring until it can be pulled out.

To replace the lower support cup of the spring, it is necessary to unscrew the nuts of the three bolts of its fastening with the socket head, holding the bolts themselves from turning with another seventeen key, after which we remove the cup.

This completes the repair work on replacing the front suspension springs on the Niva 2121 and 2131 car. Carry out the necessary repairs, then install in reverse order. For ease of installation of the rubber pads of the spring, they can be fixed with insulating tape or thread, while making sure that the last coil of the spring clearly matches the corresponding groove on the pad.

The replacement of the silent blocks of the lower arm on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car is carried out every time the rubber bushings crack, the rubber loses its elasticity, it begins to squeeze out and other damage. To carry out repair work, prepare a standard set of tools, a special puller for blocks. If you have everything you need, do the following simple sequence of actions:

After the lever is removed from the car, fix it in a vise.
We install the cup puller and press the old block out of the lever eye. In the absence of a puller, the block can be knocked out with a hammer, with which we strike directly at the end, while we install the lever itself on the vise jaws, which we first push to a distance equal to the diameter of the silent block itself, even a little more.

We remove the old block, after which we also press in the new one with a cup puller.
Also, in the absence of a puller, we press in a new fragment of an iron pipe with a suitable diameter.

This completes the repair work on removing the silent blocks of the lower suspension arm on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car.

Today I picked up the length of short rods, I tried it with my family short and elongated ones, it is possible from the ode, just the right length.
Left long, checked imitating diagonal hanging, all photos with long levers. With short ones, the rear wheel did not rest evenly on the arch. In my opinion, they clung to the leading edge, but everything is smooth.
I ran over both the right side and the left side in turn, I didn’t use the rear wheels, I was tired of carrying the channel.
Left side first:I came to the conclusion that almost everything is fine, but the front springs must definitely be replaced, and this despite the fact that there is a front stability stabilizer from a Chevrolet Niva, it is more powerful than the standard one and 2 mm thicker.
The three-door BRONTO LYNX has a diagonal hanging of 50 cm, and this despite the fact that there are shock absorbers with increased travel, arches are cut out and the wheels cost 235 75 15 in my opinion.The idea to update the suspension arose two years ago, when there was almost no compression stroke and even in small pits the lower arms rested against the bumpers, and last year the springs “sat down” completely and almost all the time I had to ride on the so-called buffers compression. I do not advise anyone to reach this state, because the ride is very hard and unpleasant, all the energy of the blows goes to the spars.There was no time to study, the car had to be used every week, and only in the early spring of this year, thanks to the warm weather, we managed to accomplish our plan.

The goal was to return the height of the stock suspension, also add about 2 cm “on top” to compensate for future spring sag and, most importantly, use springs that would not sag as quickly. And in addition: eliminate the “sweating” of the front and rear gears, get rid of the metallic squeak from the front right side, reduce the turning radius.As a result, the following was purchased:At the very beginning, I wanted to buy springs 21214 with an orange label, but having traveled around and called a dozen stores, I did not find them, everywhere they were only with a blue label. I’m not ready for chopped Shnivy springs yet (although I think for 2131 this is almost an ideal option in terms of maintaining ground clearance), so Kilen bought the front springs (code Exist 15010) - they have a length of 284 mm. and standard bar thickness of 15.2 mm. Because they twist from a cold-rolled bar, then they “sit down” not as quickly as “ours”.I immediately decided on the shock absorbers - these are 21214, which differ from 2121 by an increased stroke of 10 mm and a reservoir diameter, which should have a good effect on the course of the car. As I wrote above, in order to draw down the springs, at first I wanted to put a rubber spacer of an increased length of 27 mm., But it seemed to me too much, so I used a new standard spacer + cut off the base of the old one:So, here is the height of the car before the update:The lower arms touch the fendersImmediately there was a difficulty - it was necessary to remove the steering rods with something, so the appropriate puller was bought:There is also such a problem as rotting of the spar behind the rebound buffer bracket. It was decided to unscrew them and process anticorrosive. For 4 years of operation, the paint has already peeled off on the left side at the very bottom. Looking ahead, I’ll say: on the right side, everything was like new. I scraped off the paint, removed the rust (there was not much), generously smeared it with Movil, and then with mastic. At the same time, I cut the rebound buffers and turned them on sandpaper:The area of corrosion is circled in red. At the same time compared the course of shock absorbers 2121 and 21214For about three years, a rattle was heard in front on the right after long trips. Silent blocks were tightened, sinned on the spring. And since I took everything apart, I decided to check the grease in the ball joints, and, as you can see, it was not in vain, it was not there:The bottom left one, by the way, didn't move much.In general, I cleaned these lumps, deflected my finger as much as possible and lubricated it, then stuffed it from above:The top left ball had the most lubrication out of the four and was also given a blue Mobil.
On the right side, as it turned out, the lower ball was grinding:Then he moved on to the fist, added grease to the bearings and the hub:The next planned step is to replace the drive seals (gear sweating). Having removed the left drive.I saw a torn inner anther, and there were 3 gusts, located symmetrically at 120 degrees.Replaced seals with Corteco.Gasket put on sealantBefore you go to the market, I read the information on the anthers, deciding to put the external one in place of the internal one. Yes, and internal ones are often torn (quality of rubber?), On the right side they were changed under warranty.I bought a Trialli external CV joint repair kit and CV joint grease-4Removed the right drive to replace the oil sealI cleaned the bearing cover a little and replaced the oil sealFor bipods from Shniva, I had to buy long tie rod ends, I took the TRACK:Comparison of the length of the old and new parts. Also under the anthers with a syringe drove greaseDid the same with the right side. Moved to the rear suspension. Here I used springs from Shniva (I took Orlovskie-cheaper than VAZ ones), their length is the same as that of regular 434 mm., But the coil thickness is 13.6 mm, instead of 13.3 mm. (I had exactly this thickness) + increased rubber spacer 30 mm. The screeds helped a lot in the replacement, without them it would definitely not have happened. Also changed the extruded shock absorber bushings:I removed the plastic spring gasket, removed dirt and rust, filled it with MovilWell, the last problem is the “sweating” of the rear gearbox in connection with the axle beam.To replace the axle shaft gasket, it is not necessary to remove it, just unscrew the gearbox and move it away from the beam. You will get a gap of 3 mm., Which will allow you to perform this procedure. I note that I didn’t have a gasket from the factory, the connection was sealed with a sealant.
I bought a gasket, cut it in the upper part, smeared it with sealant on both sides.Installed. The gearbox bolts were screwed onto the thread lock.I bought 1 liter for topping up. oils and syringe.TNK Trans Gipoid Super 75W-90, this is filled in the entire transmissionAfter a run of about 1000 km. everything is dry.
Slightly updated protection - zamovilil and painted.When I assembled the suspension, the levers were at this angle.Now after 1000 km. run, the front rubber shrank to a height of about 14 mm., the springs “sat down” a little and the angle of the levers decreased by about 1/3.On the front suspension, the sensations are very pleasant, there is practically no breakdown in large pits, and elasticity in compression is felt. Waves on the pavement car passes like a glove. The comb is also without problems, without buildup and separation of the wheels, elastic compression and expansion of the suspension, one might say, progressive elasticity. But the rear suspension on an empty car is a bit stiff. Perhaps the springs will still sag and it will be fine. And most noticeable — improved roll forward.