Do-it-yourself front pillar repair priors

The front suspension of the Lada Priora as a whole remains the same as on the predecessor VAZ 2110. There are slight differences in the springs and shock absorbers. Diseases migrated along with the suspension (for example, short service life of wheel bearings, ball bearings). The table shows the problems in the front suspension of the Lada Priora, as well as how to fix them.

1 - steering knuckle; 2 - eccentric bolt; 3 - shock absorber rack; 4 - lever; 5 - stabilizer bar; 6 - bracket for fastening the stabilizer bar cushion; 7 - the rack of the stabilizer bar; 8 - front suspension cross member; 9 - ball bearing; 10 - stretching

1 - telescopic rack; 2 - spring; 3 - stem nut; 4 - upper support rebound travel stop; 5 - upper support; 6 - bearing; 7 - upper spring cup; 8 - spring gasket; 9 - stop for the compression stroke of the upper support; 10 - compression stroke buffer; 11 - protective cover

1 - ball bearing; 2 - hub; 3 - nut of the hub bearing; 4 - protective cap; 5 - hub bearing; 6 - steering fist; 7 - nut; 8 - front wheel brake disc; 9 - brake shield; 10 - eccentric (adjusting) bolt; 11 - pivot arm; 12 - front suspension spring; 13 - shock absorber rod; 14 - upper spring cup; 15 - the upper support of the shock absorber; 16 - shock absorber rod nut; 17 - bearing of the upper support of the shock absorber strut; 18 - spring gasket; 19 - buffer of the compression stroke of the front suspension; 20 - protective casing; 21 - rack body; 22 - bracket for fastening the cushion of the anti-roll bar; 23 - stretching the front suspension; 24 - front wheel drive shaft; 25 - bar of the anti-roll bar; 26 - anti-roll bar; 27 - front suspension arm

Ties for the Lada Priora suspension springs, a 14-key, a 6-hex key, a 22-span spanner.

1. Remove the telescopic stand from the prior (see "Removing and installing the telescopic stand").

2. Clamp the telescopic support in a vice, compress the spring with special ties ...

3. ... and unscrew the nut of the shock absorber rod with a 22 ”spanner wrench, keeping the shock absorber rod from turning with a 6” hex wrench.

4. Dismantle the limit washer of the upper support of the VAZ 2170 strut.

5. Remove the upper strut support assembly with bearing ...

6. ... and the compression travel stop for the upper strut support ...

7.… then remove the spring from the priora strut.

8. Remove the compression stroke buffer and the protective casing from the fret Prior shock absorber strut rod.

9. Pull out the bearing from the upper support of the VAZ 2170 strut ...

10. ... top cup and spring insulating pad ...

11.… and then disconnect them.

A shock absorber strut of a non-separable design is used on x. A defective rack must be replaced.

12. Inspect the details of the telescopic support of the VAZ 2170.

13. Replace the damaged compression stroke buffer and the protective casing of the VAZ 2172.

14. A new bearing is required if it moves axially in the bearing housing or is seized when rotating ...

15.… if there are signs of rubber aging, replace the upper support of the Prior's fret.

Purchase parts with markings ...

... on a telescopic stand VAZ 2172 ...

• 16. Replace the spring if cracks or deformed coils are found on it. To settle the spring, squeeze it three times until the coils touch. Then apply a load of 3356 N (342 kgf) to the spring.Compress the spring of the VAZ 2171 along the axis of the spring; the supporting surfaces must correspond to the surfaces of the supporting cups on the telescopic stand of the Lada Prior. If the length of the brown marked spring (class A) is less than 230 mm, replace it with the blue marked spring (class B).
• Install the springs of the same group on the car on the left and right. Change the springs in pairs.
• 17. Assemble the telescopic support of the VAZ 2171 in the reverse order of disassembly. When doing this, slide the protective cover over the annular groove of the compression travel buffer. Install the spring so that its ends rest against the protrusions of the lower and upper cups.
• 18. Finally tighten the upper shock absorber rod nut with the vehicle on the ground.

Factory racks on the Priora are quite capable of traveling more than 150,000 km, which has been repeatedly confirmed by the personal experience of many owners. But if one of them leaks or starts knocking, then in any case it must be replaced with a new one. You can do this with your own hands, having the following tool at hand:

1. Wrenches 13, 17 and 19 mm
2. Socket heads 17 and 19 mm
3. Breakdown
4. Hammer
5. Pliers
6. Ratchet handle and crank
7. Penetrating grease
8. Spring ties

To remove the A-pillar assembly on the Prior, you must perform the following steps. The first step is to apply a penetrating lubricant to all threaded connections, and the main ones from below. This is clearly shown in the photo below.

And now, using the head on 17 and 19, we unscrew the two bolts securing the rack to the steering knuckle:

When the nuts are unscrewed, it is not worth knocking out the bolts yet, let them continue to sour in the lubricant. Now we take the pliers and use them to align the cotter pin and remove it from the steering tip finger.

And now you can unscrew the tip fastening nut, as clearly demonstrated below.

Now, using a pry bar and a hammer, press the tip finger out of the hole in the rack:

The result of the work done is shown below.

Now you can start removing the lower bolts, knocking them out with the surf, if there is a problem with their removal.

As a result, we should get something like the following:

Now you can unscrew the rack from above, for which we unscrew the 3 nuts securing the upper support of the rack with a 13 key.

Then you can remove the entire Priora front suspension module assembled with a spring, a strut, a support and a support bearing, as shown in the photo below.

To replace the stand, it is necessary to tighten the spring using special tools, and then disassemble the module:

• Remove support with bearing
• Pull out the spring
• Remove the boot with a bump stop

After that, you can install all these parts on the new rack in the reverse order. The price of a new stand made by SAAZ is about 2,000 rubles apiece. If we consider more expensive options, for example, SS20, then for one rack you will have to pay around 2800 rubles.

On the example of cars of the tenth family, a detailed video review of this procedure will be shown.

The second stance changes in the same way. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments.

Replacing the front struts Lada Priora produced in the event of their failure. Signs of a malfunction of the front struts are most often: dull knocks, squeaks and clicks that occur when the car is moving on an uneven road and are heard from under the wheel arches.

It is quite difficult and not correct to make the final conclusion that your car needs to replace the front struts by knocks alone. For example, a knock in the front lower part can come from faulty ball or silent blocks that need urgent replacement. Simply put, it is necessary to make an independent diagnosis of the suspension, steering rods, ball and ends, in order to make sure that the problem is 100% in the A-pillars. Today I will tell you what it is do-it-yourself front struts replacement and how to do it quickly and correctly. For this, I have prepared a detailed photo report, which will certainly come in handy if you decide to carry out these works on your own.

First of all, make a simple diagnosis in order to make sure that the reason is in the racks. To do this, grasp the shock absorber with your hands and check if there is any play in its joints, pay attention to oil smudges. A defective strut usually has traces of oil on the piston and boot. Hang up the wheel and repeat the check, the faulty rack will be immediately visible, so I see no point in describing the diagnostic process in detail.

For myself, I chose the front struts Asomi model "Comfort CLASSIC А170.2905.002 / 003-05", you can buy others, this, as they say, is a master's business.

The main criterion that I was guided by during the choice was softness and affordable cost. The “native oak” racks are pretty fed up, so when installing new ones, I decided not to buy cheap stuff. Soft pillars provide comfort, which is very important while driving, for me, for example, this is almost the most important thing in a car.

Front struts Asomi - collapsible, hydraulic, which is quite convenient, if you feel that something is wrong with the racks, they can be easily “brought to life” by buying special cartridges in the store, after which they can be easily installed, the “native” SAAZ ones did not allow do it.

Self replacement of the front struts Lada Priora - the task is not an easy one, to say that it is very difficult, it seems not, but it takes a lot of time. In addition, if a person is not aware of what and what, then you can pretty much suffer while doing this work. In addition, before changing the front struts, you need to acquire a special tool, namely: special tensioners for springs, as well as a puller for unpressing steering tips.

As for the standard tools, you will need:

1. Socket wrenches for “13”, “17”, “19”.
2. Span keys on “17”, “19”, “22”.
3. Hexagon to “6”.
4. Pliers and hammer.
5. WD-40.

Before how to replace the front struts Lada Priora, I recommend treating all fasteners that are to be disassembled with WD-40 liquid, it is better to do this a few hours before the start of the repair.

1. First, remove the bolts on the wheel, then install the jack on the side from which you are going to make repairs.

2. Next, unscrew the bolts completely and remove the wheel.

3. It is necessary to disconnect the brake hoses, then remove them from the holder located on the rack.

4. Take the pliers and carefully unpin the locking cotter pin on the steering tip pin, after which it is necessary to take it out and unscrew the nut with a wrench on “17”.

5. Now it is the turn of the puller, install it on the steering end as shown in the photo and press it out of the socket.

6. Expand the support and proceed to unscrewing the fastening nuts on the steering knuckle, if you listened to my recommendations and processed all the WD-40 connections - there should be no problems with unscrewing.

7. If necessary, use a hammer to knock out the bolts, but be careful not to damage the threads, God forbid.

8. The upper eccentric bolt is for camber adjustment and has a washer that often likes to stick to the strut. Do not discard the bolt itself; during the replacement process, it will be installed in place. It makes no sense to memorize the position of the eccentric along the axis - there is no, because in any case you will have to go to the wheel alignment.

9. Let's go further. Using the key “13”, unscrew the fastening nuts that secure the A-pillar to the body, they are located under the hood.

10. We take out the front strut from the wheel well assembly.

1. This is where you will need the previously prepared tie for the springs.Install them on the second coil (top and bottom) of the spring, as shown in the picture. We install the second tie in the same way, only on the other side.

2. Now start to reduce the spring, for this (if anyone did not understand) it is necessary to turn the tightening bolts of the first tie. This is done until the second tie becomes free to move on the turns, repeat all of the above with respect to the second tie.

3. Unscrew the nut securing the strut rod to the support using the union on “22” and hexagon.

4. Next, remove the bumper (stop), as well as the support bearing, compression stop and support.

5. We replace the old washers of the rebound limiter with the new ones that came with the racks, be careful, they have differences - the upper one is slightly larger than the lower one.

6. Dismantle the spring cup together with the rubber damper, as well as the spring, compression buffer and boot.

Now we carefully examine the rack.

The cause of the malfunction was discovered almost immediately, after checking the backlash, I raised the rod to the top point, then simply released it, after which the piston went down sharply without the slightest resistance, “stuck” into the upper part of the cylinder. Here, as they say, no comment. Now it is clear where the thuds came from.

Before replacing the front drain, it must be pumped.

1. In the vertical position of the rack, smoothly pull the stem to the extreme upper point, then smoothly return it back.

It is necessary to make 3-4 such movements, during execution you should not feel any failures, falls or sticking of the stem. After bleeding the racks, keep them in an upright position until the very moment of installation in place. It is necessary to pump the racks in order to bring them into working condition.

Now you can start assembling the new shock absorber.

1. Set the stem in the upper position.

1. Carefully slide the boot and compression buffer onto the new rack.
2. Install the spring, then the cup and damper.
3. Install the smaller washer from the kit, as well as the larger one, then the support together with the bearing.
4. We bait the stem fastening nut.
5. Tighten the nut using the hex to “6” and hold the stem with it. The final stretch is done already on the car, that is, after the front pillar is in place.
6. The ties can be removed.

8. Turn the support with the pointer forward and slightly inward of the machine body.

1. Now you can actually install a new Asomi stand into place.
2. Tighten the upper support bolts, then place the rack over the steering knuckle. Install the eccentric bolt with washer in the upper hole, and the ordinary bolt in the lower one, then “pull” everything properly.
3. Install the steering end pin into the tie rod on the rack, then tighten the nut.
4. Split your finger.
5. Install the brake hoses into the bracket-holder on the rack.

Everything is ready! Replacing the front pillar was successful, it remains to put the wheel in place and lower the jack. After lowering the car to the ground, once again go through all the fasteners with the wrench and tighten the nuts until they stop.

Perform all the above actions on the other side. As a rule, the second time things are "more fun", because the second time you already have some experience, it seems like your hand is "full" or something.

And the last, after replacing the front struts Lada Priora be sure to go to the service station and do the wheel alignment. If you do not do this, you may have problems, since the wheels are not adjusted, the car will “drive” from side to side, so it is better not to risk it.

We remove and repair the shock absorber strut when the upper support, bearing, spring and telescopic strut itself are worn out.

The telescopic stand cannot be repaired - it must be replaced.

For removal and installation, you need keys for 13, 17, 19, head for 19.

The work is best done on a hoist, but can be done on level ground using a jack and a fall arrest stand.

It is advisable to replace the wallpaper of the rack, even if only one is faulty.

Apply the parking brake to the vehicle and place chocks under the rear wheels. Loosen the front wheel bolts. Raise the front part of the car with a jack and remove the wheel.

Disconnect the tie rod end from the strut pivot arm. For this:

1. - turn the steering wheel all the way to the side opposite to the detachable tip;

- unbend and remove the cotter pin

2. - using a 19 spanner spanner, we do not completely unscrew the nut securing the ball pin.

3. Insert the mounting blade between the pivot arm and the tip, squeeze the tip from the lever and, striking the end of the pivot arm with a hammer, press the ball pin out of the lever.

You can perform this operation using a puller.

4. Finally, unscrew the ball stud fastening nut.

5. and remove the ball pin from the hole of the pivot arm.

Hello everyone! I have prior's racks on the 12th, from the factory. Here is the question whether the racks are subject to repair. And specifically the liner itself (on the decimal places it is removable). I took off the rack without load, it grunts when you pull it out (at a certain moment). with a load gives a rattling sound (with a sharp start. on bumps, in short, when the liner goes up). along the way, the whole problem is somewhere inside (in the area of ​​the bypass valve). passed only 18000 and changing the rack is not very desirable, and even more so it is necessary to change a pair. can it be cured?

You need to lightly hit the bypass valve, I think. Do you know where it is?

Hello everyone! I have prior stands on the 12th, from the factory. Here is the question of whether the stands are subject to repair.

not at all it is removable, more precisely - it has not been removable for a long time.

I took off the rack without load, it grunts when you pull it (at a certain moment). With a load, it gives a grinding sound (with a sharp start. on the bumps, in short, when the liner goes up).

looks like increased friction in the rack (either internal friction pairs or oil seal)

along the way, the whole problem is somewhere inside (in the area of ​​the bypass valve).

where is it taken from? in the area of ​​what overflow? one in cl. compression (bottom), and the other is constantly moving - piston.
at what distance from the compressed position to the elongated position does this occur?

passed only 18000 and changing the rack is not very hunting, and even more so it is necessary to change a couple. Can you tell me if this can be cured?

friction is not treated (only bulkhead and replacement of certain internal parts)

A Lada Priora 21126 car, manufactured in 2013, arrived for repairs, on which it is necessary to replace the front strut support (shock absorber), along with the bearings. We will show you how to do it yourself in a garage.

We remove the wheels. From under the hood, loosen the upper nut using a 22 wrench:

Using a 13 key, unscrew 3 nuts:

Remove the cotter pin from the steering tip and loosen the nut by 19:

We loosen the fastenings of the strut to the trunnion:

Using a hammer, “knock out” the steering tip, unscrew to the end 2 bolts securing the strut to the trunnion. From above, unscrew 3 nuts to the end, now holding the stand, move it away from the trunnion. We take the ties, tighten the spring with them on both sides, for this we place them parallel to each other, now we completely unscrew the upper nut:

Next, we remove the washer and the support itself, we have it sour a little, I had to use a hammer for this. Before installing a new support, clean the rod from rust and lubricate it (Litol can be used as a lubricant). We have a new support from TRIALLI SA 503, it comes complete with a bearing. We install and assemble in the reverse order.

Video replacement of the front pillar support in the Lada Priora:

Backup video how to replace the front shock absorber support in Lada Priora: