SS20 places great emphasis on the quality of its products, and this work is confirmed by the unconditional warranty on shock absorbers and shock absorber struts for up to two years.High reliability and service life of SS20 products is achieved due to many factors, and the quality of components is one of the key ones. All components undergo 100% preliminary control, since the durability and uninterrupted operation of suspension parts of VAZ cars depends on their quality, which is ensured by the maximum manufacturer's guarantee SS20 for all manufactured auto components. The use of components of our production, which are also covered by the company warranty, allows us to provide high-quality repair of shock absorbers. Therefore, service specialists engaged in the repair of shock absorbers, SS20 accessories are in stable demand.
The quality management system of NPP Sistema Tekhnologii LLC meets the requirements of GOST R ISO 9001-2015 (ISO 9001: 2015)
The struts are one of the most important suspension elements of any car. They are responsible not only for the comfort of movement, but also dampen all body vibrations. Naturally, the comfort of car movement on various roads directly depends on the condition of the struts.
VIDEO
Where is that there in the shadow of the wheel is hidden shock absorber!
Depending on the intensity of vehicle operation and the quality of this suspension unit, the struts need to be replaced. The procedure for replacing this suspension part is familiar to most owners of the VAZ-2110. The standard period of care for the shock absorbers of the "tens" is about 35,000 km of run ... It depends on the care of the driver, the part manufacturer and the operating conditions. In rural areas, the replacement interval is much shorter.
Oil drips on the rack body.
Since disassembling the suspension of a car is a rather time-consuming task, before you undertake repairs, you need to determine whether it is really about the rack. To do this, you need to focus on the following indirect signs:
There is a strong beat on the steering wheel of the car.
Body vibration increases significantly. Particularly strong vibration comes from the faulty rack.
The car starts to stop worse when braking.
When cornering, the car starts to skid.
If you release the steering wheel on a flat road, the car will be heavily drifting to the side.
On the shock absorber, even with a visual inspection, you can see oil smudges.
If you ask someone to drive slowly, and listen to yourself, you can hear incomprehensible knocks and noises in the shock absorber, which is under suspicion.
Checking the racks in the diagnostic center.
It is clear that these problems do not always indicate exactly the malfunction of the racks. , therefore, in order to make sure, you can proceed as follows.
The easiest way is to drive the car to a service station, where the condition of the shock absorbers will be checked at the stand. The car owner should know that the vibration stand can show even on completely new shock absorbers 75% of the resource ... But with an indicator of less than 50%, it is worthwhile to deal with the elimination of the problem.
Diagnostics at a service station is inexpensive, so many recommend doing diagnostics there, and then eliminate the consequences with your own hands.
The start of the damper strut leakage can be seen if you look under the boot.
Since the service station will take money for diagnostics, many owners get by with a more popular method of testing.
This method consists in self-rocking the car manually ... You need to swing the top ten strongly, and then abruptly remove your hands. If the swinging of the body does not stop immediately, then most likely they have worked out their resource.
Some car owners believe that the failure of the front shock absorbers is not a problem, especially if the car does not even roll over to one side. In fact, front suspension problems can lead to the following troubles:
The thrust bearings will fall apart which could lead to an accident.Tires start to wear unevenly , about the collapse of the convergence can be forgotten. In addition, so-called "Buns" may appear on the tires.Hub bearings won't last long either.
Brake performance will become unsatisfactory as pad wear will be uneven.
It turns out that one problem that is not resolved in time can lead to serious damage to the car.
The original stand VAZ-2110.
In the case of spare parts for the VAZ-2110, original consumables are not always the best choice. As for the most popular shock absorbers, they have the following article numbers:
The front left shock absorber on the VAZ-2110 has an article number 21100-2905403-30 ;
Right - article 21100-2905402-30 .
The article is stamped on the rack body.
Factory counterparts can be advised for those drivers for whom stiffness indicators are important. It is the original front struts that do an excellent job of transporting goods, although for comfortable movement in the city they are clearly inferior to softer counterparts.
Some drivers are installing sport struts that are much more rigid than even factory parts. Thus, they are trying to increase the life of this suspension assembly. In any case, it is not recommended to install sports parts, as they are designed for completely different operating conditions.
Some praise the Samara parts, which are known as SS-20. ... They can be both oil and gas. Oil shock absorbers much cheaper, but gas can operate over a wider temperature range. For example, in winter, the stiffness of cheaper parts will increase significantly, although for some car owners this does not matter.
Front pillars SS-20 of the Comfort series, assembled.
In addition to domestic parts, you can install front struts from other manufacturers, which will cost significantly more:
Although the installation of expensive parts on domestic cars is not always economically justified, some prefer to spend a large sum once, but then they do not worry about replacement for several years.
Racks "Aston" - another analogue of domestic production.
Before starting the procedure for repairing the front suspension, you need to prepare the necessary set of tools. In addition to the standard set of keys and screwdrivers, you will need a device for compressing the springs on the struts and a special puller for ball pins. It is advisable to have WD-40 fluid as well, since rusty and stuck bolts will certainly be encountered during the repair process.
The replacement process will proceed as follows:
First, unscrew the nuts that connect the support to the body cup.
Using a 13 spanner wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the upper support.
We turn off the nuts of the bolts with a 19 head, then knock them out.
We pull back the fist and remove the rack.
Before releasing the stem, you need to compress the shock absorber spring. It is better to immediately fill the ball finger with a "Vedashka", since it will be very difficult to remove it without a special puller, and it will not interfere with the VD-40 puller.
We use special ties to compress the springs.
When carrying out repairs, you need to pay attention to the condition of the boot.
A new boot is inexpensive, it is better to replace it anyway.
It is better to replace it immediately, since the rubber is not intended for many years of use. If this element is well preserved, then when replacing it, you should try not to damage it.
Many owners of the VAZ-2110 are interested in whether it is necessary to do wheel alignment after replacing the front strut. This procedure is optional only when replacing the C-pillars.
When replacing front shock absorbers, wheel alignment is a must.
You can replace the strut yourself, but to adjust the camber, you need to go to the service.
Of course, suspension repair work is quite difficult and time consuming.
This is not easy without a special tool. But domestic motorists often get by with even a standard set of keys, which is available in every garage. The strut spring is compressed with a wire , and the ball finger is knocked out using various improvised devices.VAZ is not a foreign car, so the car tolerates such treatment.
I want to ask if your racks, collapsible and non-collapsible, are pumped, how much it costs, reviews after repair, what kind of liquid is poured in, do they know how to make gas oil out of your racks, do Kalina and Priora do it. Regarding typing in large letters, sorry, I am not very good at a computer, I know that there are no blind people, I don’t know for what reason he starts typing in large letters.
The topic has already been. Pumping is pumping out money, and there is no sense at all.
Pumping is pumping out money, and there is no sense at all.
I join, pumping racks is a waste of money!
I would like to say hello to Elfap and write a short message that will be interesting to him, and maybe to someone else.
Your car's native fenders are the best and keep in mind the most expensive ones. The awkward price leads to the fact that in stores there are bumpers at a ridiculous price, and real relatives cost at least five times more. Cheap bumpers breaks within a maximum of a week, clogs in bits under the cap closer to the stem and union nut - the rack "leaks". Our motorists are especially fond of silicone bumpers. It is difficult to say how they conquered them, but there is no need to put them on.
ABOUT SPRINGS, ABOUT DAMPER FLUID ...
You decided to repair (upgrade) the racks.
The geometrical dimensions of the rack 08 of the machine differ from the 10 of the machine in that the 10th neck is lower than that of the 8th, respectively, the height with the extended stem of the 10th rack is less. If we talk about the interchangeability from 9th to 10th and from 10th to 9th, then it is better not to do this. Here it is not only the difference in efforts at the rebound cycle of these struts, but also in their seats on the car.
During the transition period from winter to spring, many car owners notice an increased noise level of the car.The roads were bare, holes were added, the tires were still "winter". Do not rush to blame all the shortcomings in driving on the racks. Look at the car's suspension: besides the struts, there are many more elements that can make noise. And tune in to the fact that from your VAZ car, you will not make a foreign car. Due to the fact that there are structural units that we are not able to change: a single-link suspension cannot be turned into a double-wishbone suspension, it is impossible to change the basic geometric dimensions of the car. In the transition period from winter to spring, initially you need to try to get used to the noises around you, and not rush to repair the suspension on the very first day of the appearance of asphalt, but an inspection will not hurt.
WHAT CAN YOU MAKE FROM YOUR STANDS
WHAT ARE THE NEIGHBORS AND GARAGE MASTERS DOING ...
FOR THOSE WHO IS INTERESTED, THEN NEXT ...
A FEW WORDS ABOUT
Of course, as soon as SAAZ began to make "confusion", having rolled up their sleeves, the repairmen began to turn them into "analysis".
There is no doubt that people who have to deal with the maintenance of cars without reading the "technical study" will say that "I, they say, already know everything." Then it is not clear where the cars come from simply with horrendous errors in the assembly and maintenance of the suspension.
Post has been edited by the Marsian: 21 November 2015 - 05:48
Greetings from the Marsian - of course accepted!
I apologize for the long silence, because the end of the month and there was a lot of work, even on the Internet there was no time to look (I mean seriously).
After all, what did we get? - we moved from a particular question (my supports) to general (I would even say global) issues of configuration (construction, design - I don’t even know how to say) the suspension of all cars, regardless of the model and country of the manufacturer! Although, of course, this applies to VAZ most of all, because many foreign cars at the time of purchase can be configured to suit your needs and concepts, how should. the perfect car, and we get VAZ - as is (as it is)! But after the purchase, everything begins ... Hence the abundance in the sale of various add-ons, improvements, fixes, etc. etc. and each manufacturer SCREAMS that this is the best, the problem of choice arises ...
Now on the case - i.e. what have I learned from all this ...
Therefore, I will formulate MY understanding of the suspension:
What is needed for that…?
3. Racks - oil, with enhanced rebound stroke (this is a prerequisite!) - 100 ... 150 kgf.
Well, that's all ... for now ...
Greetings from the Marsian - of course accepted!
Well, that's all ... for now ...
Post has been edited by the Marsian: 22 November 2015 - 04:30
So far, everything is clear. If a wife is outraged by the constant disappearance of the Internet, then this is with them, with their wives, probably so with everyone. But, as they say, the family comes first. You can take your time with the description. I, of course, want to know everything to the end, but I'm not in a hurry with the analysis of the racks yet.
And so we assemble the valve mechanisms of the piston. The stem is fixed in a yew. First, we put the bent disc with the bulge down (!), Then the straight disc, install the piston. Let's try so that the piston has the ability to move down (elastic), this means that the two installed discs stand in the middle.
Post has been edited by the Marsian: 22 November 2015 - 04:31
This is not good, I stood on the old eight and the tie rod touched the body when the steering wheel was turned out to the end!
Hi, the 10th post differs from the 9th in the height of the body by 18 (in my opinion) mm, the stem exit is the same, that is, the total length is 10 shorter. The spring cup is 5mm welded. In theory, it should not touch anything. in your case, rather the plunger was removed inside and the stand lengthened, so it touched it. The SS-20 did the same - they removed the plunger and shout that this grazing won't hurt you_ (us). This is not necessary, but everyone has their own reason for such making, I don't do that
Marsian, I have a question about the rear shock absorbers. So far, I decided to repair the used one, which I took to the service station for alteration from a non-collapsible one.
For information, I want to show how a collapsible rack is made from a non-collapsible rack. It's not difficult, but I do not advise you to repeat
Post has been editedAtom.DP: 15 October 2009 - 08:31
1 On the rear shock absorber, the throttle disc has four notches, should we leave it?
In fact, you can leave it, you can put it with three if you find it (with three they stand on the old front 08, and the rear all 10s)
2 How many valve discs and their thickness are required? I have two disks, one 0.15 and the other 0.2.
You can add 0.15 one if you want harder
3 As I understand it, is it better to replace the spring cup with a spring (in the catalog they are called a thrust plate and a recoil valve spring, respectively) on the rear shock absorber? What to replace it with? I have from the classic and rear and front shock absorbers.
the cups are the same, you can change the spring, but not harder than the rear 10th (you don't need to make the backside wild, although it's not tricky, more discs are stronger than the spring and the stem cannot be pulled out)
5 What can you answer to my next question: mp; # entry282391
If you want more details, I’ll answer, but don’t look there and don’t worry, the forces there are very small, only the hydraulic forces of the shock absorber act on the rod attachment point
Example of a blower connection
