First, loosen the nut (do not unscrew).
Moving on to the bottom of the rack, the wheel has already been removed. We treat the re-knuckle mounts with penetrating grease (WD -40), as well as the steering tip bolt. We stand for some time.
We tear off the bolts of the rack. The process looks like this:
Do not unscrew them immediately, at the end you will have to knock them out. First, unscrew the tip of the ball joint.
We loosen with a spanner wrench, then work with a "ratchet".
Next, you need a special puller, or knock it out gently with a hammer through a wooden gasket.
Let's go back to the bottom strut bolts. We knock them out gently with a hammer with a wooden wedge. The fasteners on the top regulate the camber - do not confuse with the bottom during assembly.
Now the structure does not hold anything, it remains to remove it, we do it from below, pulling the module aside towards ourselves.
We squeeze the springs with the clamps until the outer part of the support is weakened ATTENTION: do not overtighten the spring.
Now we unscrew the lock nut on the stem.
Here is a way to unscrew the locknut so that the stem does not turn, this is done using a hexagon.
After that, it remains to lift the outer cover, and we will gain access to the support bearing for replacement.
Now, depending on what your goal is, we change the whole support, or just the bearing. Prerequisite: replacement of rubber gaskets - vibration dampers.
We collect the entire node in reverse order. Do the final broaching of the mounts when the jack is removed.
1. Replacing the support bearing of the Priors without removing the rack - not recommended, in this case, the installation of a new product will not occur correctly, which will affect the service life.
We remove and repair the shock absorber strut when the upper support, bearing, spring and telescopic strut itself are worn out.
The telescopic stand cannot be repaired - it must be replaced.
For removal and installation, you need keys for 13, 17, 19, head for 19.
The work is best done on a hoist, but can be done on level ground using a jack and a fall arrest stand.
It is advisable to replace the wallpaper of the rack, even if only one is faulty.
Apply the parking brake to the vehicle and place chocks under the rear wheels. Loosen the front wheel bolts. Raise the front part of the car with a jack and remove the wheel.
Disconnect the tie rod end from the strut pivot arm. For this:
1. - turn the steering wheel all the way to the side opposite to the detachable tip;
- unbend and remove the cotter pin
2. - using a 19 spanner spanner, we do not completely unscrew the nut securing the ball pin.
3. Insert the mounting blade between the pivot arm and the tip, squeeze the tip from the lever and, striking the end of the pivot arm with a hammer, press the ball pin out of the lever.
You can perform this operation using a puller.
4. Finally, unscrew the ball stud fastening nut.
5. and remove the ball pin from the hole of the pivot arm.
Hello dear readers of the blog Today, thanks to the video material, we will consider the process of replacing the rear shock absorber on a VAZ Lada Priora car. On front-wheel drive VAZ cars, the process of replacing the rear pillars can be said to be the same. This article will also be useful for motorists of other vaz models.
Next, we put reliable stops under the car, “rip off” the wheel bolts (but do not unscrew), then we raise the car on a jack, while the emphasis is placed on the side opposite to the lifting.
After lifting the car with a jack, a safety net is placed under the body in the form of a reliable stop. Having lifted the car body, we give up the previously “torn off” bolts, then we remove the wheel. We carry out this process of the operation in order to proceed with replacing the rear shock absorber of the car Priora vaz 2170.
Having removed the rear wheel, unscrew the bolt securing the lower part of the rear upright to the beam and take it out. To do this, you have to work a little with a hammer. Then the replacement stand with spring is removed from the machine. First of all, you need to defect all the elements of the shock absorber and simply replace all the parts that have become unusable.
In this case, we will replace the new torn anthers of the "corrugation", we will also replace the bushings of the upper shock absorber of the rear "donut", and leave the old bump stop, which can still serve, since it is practically not worn out for replacement.
Rear suspension shock absorber casing, repair kit design number: vaz 2108-2915681
Before installing the casing of the "corrugation", a shaped baffle metal washer is installed on top of it, and a baffle of the rear pillar is immediately placed in the "corrugation". The “corrugation” boot is put on the stem, and a lower rubber “donut” with an iron sleeve is placed on top.
Rear shock absorber rubber cushions for the spring vaz 2110, 2111, 2112, 2170, repair kit design number: 2110-2912652
The adhered upper rubber cushion of the shock absorber spring is removed from the body and is also defective. In our case, the rubber cushion is still "alive", so it remains for the further operation of the VAZ Priora car.
(!) As you can see in the video, on the stand itself, the platform for the lower part of the spring is rubberized.
Next, we orient the spring along the cut of the coil on the lower cup of the shock absorber in order to correctly install the upper spring cushion along the cut of the coil and put the rubber cushion on the spring.
Then we install the spring with the upper cushion installed on the shock absorber, and it is ready to be installed on the Priora vaz car. New shock absorbers for replacement purchased by the owner of the car Priora VAZ have the designation "CC20".The shock absorber is wound with the upper part into the body niche, with the condition that the rod falls into the hole of the upper attachment in the car body and a nut can be attached to the rod. In this case, its lower part is inserted into the fastening bracket and fixed with a fastening bolt, after which a nut is screwed onto it (self-locking nut).
Then the lower connection of the rack to the beam itself is crimped with keys. We move on to the upper mount, after lowering the body a little to compress the spring with the weight of the car body. Install the upper rubber "donut", washer and screw on the stem nut.
Next, we hold the stem from turning with one key, and with the second we tighten the fastening nut with the prescribed force using a special. key. The top of the strut support is assembled and you can put the wheel in place and lower the body from the jack.
We go to the other side, where we do the same operations for lifting and securing the car body for the safety of the work.
Next, remove the second rear wheel ...
Then we act according to the already worked out scheme. We unscrew the nut of the upper mounting of the rear shock absorber, use a special key for this to replace the rear shock absorbers (as mentioned above, in the form of two heads inserted one into one). After we unscrew the last threads on the nut simply by hand, remove the nut, washer, rear shock absorber bushing, rubber "donut".
Cushions for fastening the upper end of the shock absorber, repair kit design number: VAZ 2110-2915450 (4 pcs. Under noier-1, see photo). Rear suspension arm mounting hinge design number: VAZ 2108-2914054-10 (2 pcs. Under number-2, see photo)
Go down and unscrew the bottom bolt and take it out of the mounting bracket. The fasteners are released and the shock absorber can be removed from the wheel housing, which is what we are doing.
Next, remove the spring from the old shock absorber, the boot "casing", the bump stop, the steel shaped washer and the bagel with the sleeve. All removed parts are also defective. The shock absorber itself is pumped whenever possible (at least five strokes), at the same time the force of the rod stroke is immediately felt, which will indicate its serviceability.
Memo. In general, "according to science" shock absorbers should be stored in an upright position, and if they were "lying" on the rack, then pumping is required corresponding to at least 100 strokes of the rod.
Bumpers for shock absorbers VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112, 2170, 1118 repair kit design numbers: 2110-2902816-01 (see photo under number-1 on the front pillar) and 2110-2912622-01 (under number-2 on the rear pillar)
Then everything is assembled in the reverse order, as in the first case. A bump stop, a “corrugation” casing, a shaped washer (a steel cap, on which the edge of the corrugation is put on), a bottom rubber bushing “donut” with a steel bushing inside and a spring are put on the stem.
Further, the upper rubber cushion of the spring is also removed, wiped from dirt and mounted on the spring.
Bump stop for the front vaz 1118 Kalina, design number: 1118-2902816-01
Another little trick from the category - "advice from the experienced." In order for the rod to hit exactly the hole in the upper body mount, a brake hose is wound on it (it will serve as an excellent guide) from the VAZ 2108 - the front one.
Tokaya "adapt" greatly facilitates the process of mounting the rack, reducing our installation time, and nerves, as the craftsmen say, at home (!). Having put the rod into the upper body mount, the lower part of the rack is installed in the mount bracket, then fixed with a bolt and nut, and then crimped with keys.
Bumpers for VAZ 2108 front and rear struts, design numbers: 2108-2902816-01 (under number-1 on the front pillar) and 2108-2912622-01 (under number-2 on the rear pillar)
Further, the car body must be lowered a little on a jack (substituting a safety stop under the beam with a lower height) so that it compresses the spring and the rod appears in the niche of the upper mounting of the rear pillar.
We go to the salon, where we remove the brake hose from the rod, put the second "donut", the washer, and after tightening the nut tighten the rod fasteners.We put a special key (the head in the head) and also work with two keys, where the stem is fixed with one, and the nut is tightened with the second.
Then, after replacing the rack, we finally tighten the lower mount and put the wheel in place, removing the "goat" and lower the car. Finally, tighten the wheel bolts.
VIDEO
We remove and disassemble the shock absorber strut to replace the upper support, bearing, spring, telescopic strut.
… And tie it with a cord to the holes in the wheel arch, making sure that the hose is not stretched.
… With a “22” wrench, loosen the rod nut tightening, keeping the rod from turning with a “6” hexagon.
With a head or a key "13", unscrew the three nuts securing the upper support of the rack to the body ...
… And remove the shock absorber strut together with the steering knuckle.
Mark the location of the adjusting bolt with a punch or paint.
... in relation to the stand bracket.
Using the "19" head, unscrew the nuts of the bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle, holding the bolts with the "17" wrench.
This is what the top bolt and camber washer look like.
We remove the steering knuckle from the rack bracket.
… Remove the shock absorber strut.
Remove the upper support rebound travel stop.
Remove the upper spring cup assembly with bearing and spring gasket.
Remove the spring with ties.
Remove the upper support compression travel stop.
Remove the front suspension compression travel buffer with a protective cover.
Remove the bearing from the upper spring cup.
Remove the protective ring with the upper bearing ring.
Disconnect the spring gasket and the upper cup.
Install the spring so that the lower coil of the spring rests against the protrusion of the lower spring support.
Factory racks on the Priora are quite capable of traveling more than 150,000 km, which has been repeatedly confirmed by the personal experience of many owners. But if one of them leaks or starts knocking, then in any case it must be replaced with a new one. You can do this with your own hands, having the following tool at hand:
Wrenches 13, 17 and 19 mm
Socket heads 17 and 19 mm
Breakdown
Hammer
Pliers
Ratchet handle and crank
Penetrating grease
Spring ties
To remove the A-pillar assembly on the Prior, you must perform the following steps. The first step is to apply a penetrating lubricant to all threaded connections, and the main ones from below. This is clearly shown in the photo below.
And now, using the head on 17 and 19, we unscrew the two bolts securing the rack to the steering knuckle:
When the nuts are unscrewed, it is not worth knocking out the bolts yet, let them continue to sour in the lubricant. Now we take the pliers and use them to align the cotter pin and remove it from the steering tip finger.
And now you can unscrew the tip fastening nut, as clearly demonstrated below.
Now, using a pry bar and a hammer, press the tip finger out of the hole in the rack:
The result of the work done is shown below.
Now you can start removing the lower bolts, knocking them out with the surf, if there is a problem with their removal.
As a result, we should get something like the following:
Now you can unscrew the rack from above, for which we unscrew the 3 nuts securing the upper support of the rack with a 13 key.
Then you can remove the entire Priora front suspension module assembled with a spring, a strut, a support and a support bearing, as shown in the photo below.
To replace the stand, it is necessary to tighten the spring using special tools, and then disassemble the module:
Remove support with bearing
Pull out the spring
Remove the boot with a bump stop
After that, you can install all these parts on the new rack in the reverse order. The price of a new stand made by SAAZ is about 2,000 rubles apiece. If we consider more expensive options, for example, SS20, then for one rack you will have to pay around 2800 rubles.
On the example of cars of the tenth family, a detailed video review of this procedure will be shown.
VIDEO The second stance changes in the same way. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments.
Removal, refurbishment and installation of the front suspension strut
Both struts should be replaced at the same time in order to maintain the stability and handling characteristics of the vehicle. It is also recommended that all threaded fasteners be replaced without fail.
Front suspension strut design
1 - Nut of the upper support
5 - the Bearing
Activate the parking brake, jack up the front of the vehicle and place it on the struts. Remove the corresponding front wheel.
Keeping your finger from turning on the flat with an open-end wrench, give the nut that secures the vertical link of the anti-roll bar. Disconnect the link from the suspension strut.
Release the pad wear sensor wiring from the latch on the stand. On the models with ABS disconnect the wiring from the wheel sensor.
Mark the position of the strut in relation to the steering knuckle, unscrew the two bolts (2) of the strut to the steering knuckle, - try to remember the installation position of the bolts. Release the knuckle from the bracket (1) on the upright and place it on a suitable support.
Have a second person hold the strut through the wheel arch.In the engine compartment, remove the protective cap of the upper strut support and loosen the upper fastening nut, - hold the shock absorber rod from turning with the second wrench.
Remove the plate of the upper support from the rack, - on Zafira models in order to gain access to the nut (2), the plastic deflector installed in front of the windshield must be removed.
To carry out this operation, you will need a device for compressing the coil springs.
Clamp the post assembly in a vice with soft jaws and, using a special tool, squeeze the coil spring, completely removing the load from the cups. Make sure that the compression device is firmly seated on the spring - proceed strictly in accordance with the instructions set out in the manufacturer's instructions.
Remove the upper rubber damper, upper spring cup with bearing, compression travel buffer (if applicable) and coil spring (see illustration Front suspension strut design
Inspect the components for mechanical damage, check the smooth movement of the shock absorber rod. Replace defective components.
Inspect the strut damper for signs of leaks. Make sure that there are no signs of metal damage by corrosion, as well as signs of mechanical damage, on the rod along its entire length. Holding the shock absorber vertically, check the correctness of its functioning, both at full and at a short (50-100 mm) stroke of the rod. In both cases, the resistance should be soft, even and constant. If signs of malfunction are detected, both shock absorbers should be replaced.
Remove the spring compression device and carefully inspect it for signs of deformation and mechanical damage. Replace both front suspension springs if necessary. Sagging springs that do not develop the proper force are also subject to replacement.
Check the condition of other components in the rack assembly. Replace defective parts.
Install the bumper, upper cup and damper with bearing.
Screw on the stem nut and tighten it with the required force, keeping the stem from turning with the second wrench.
Release the spring slowly and make sure that both ends of the spring rest against the cup stops. If necessary, correct the position of the cups accordingly, only then finally remove the compression device from the spring.
Video (click to play).
Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal of components. Pay attention to the following points.
