Do-it-yourself repair of the front struts Lada Kalina

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the front struts of the Lada Kalina from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The front suspension system on Lada Kalina cars is quite unpretentious in operation, but sometimes it as a whole and the front shock absorbers in particular needs to be replaced.

The video shows the process of replacing the front struts on Kalina:

Jack.
Wheel chocks.
Hammer.
Crowbar.
Box key for "22".
Socket heads for "13" "17", "19", or caps with the same parameters.
Open-end wrench at "9".
Wheel key.
Vorotok.
Wrench extension.
Pliers.
Grease (WD-40 - approx.).
Spring brace.
Screwdriver.
Rags.

If you have only one shock absorber out of order, you still have to change a couple, so the order of work does not matter.

First of all, we open the hood and, using a spanner wrench on "22" and an open-end wrench on "9", we hook the nut securing the support to the rack and turn it. When the mount is loose, you should not unscrew it all the way.
Then, using a jack, we hang the front wheel and remove it. We put wheel chocks under the rear wheels.
We remove the brake hose from the groove on the rack and take it to the side.

Hoses are marked with arrows

If you cannot immediately remove the tip, you can pry it off with a pry bar

A pneumatic gun is useful to unscrew these bolts.

The order in which the nuts are removed does not matter

It looks like a shot rack

This completes the procedure for removing the A-pillar.

New rack, more comfortable to work with new parts

The spring of the rack in its seat

New rack assembled and installed

We carry out all exactly the same work on the other side of the car, since the process of work is already familiar, everything will go much faster.

Video (click to play).

The first signs that it is time to change the front struts will be their so-called "gaps" on a rough road, the characteristic noise they will emit and, of course, the presence of oil smudges on the body.

Leaks on the rack indicate the need to replace it.

Please make this information binding! After you have completed the installation of new front struts on the Lada Kalina, you you should immediately visit the vehicle inspection station to carry out work on the wheel alignment, since during the work all the angles set earlier were violated. Failure to do so can cause not only rapid and uneven wear of tires and mechanisms, but also lead to a road accident.

We remove and repair the shock absorber strut when the upper support, bearing, spring and telescopic strut itself are worn out.

The telescopic stand cannot be repaired - it must be replaced.

For removal and installation, you need keys for 13, 17, 19, head for 19.

The work is best done on a hoist, but can be done on level ground using a jack and a fall arrest stand.

It is advisable to replace the wallpaper of the rack, even if only one is faulty.

Apply the parking brake to the vehicle and place chocks under the rear wheels. Loosen the front wheel bolts. Raise the front part of the car with a jack and remove the wheel.

Disconnect the tie rod end from the strut pivot arm. For this:

1. - turn the steering wheel all the way to the side opposite to the detachable tip;

- unbend and remove the cotter pin

2. - using a 19 spanner spanner, we do not completely unscrew the nut securing the ball pin.

3. Insert the mounting paddle between the pivoting arm and the tip, squeeze the tip away from the lever and,

striking the end of the pivot arm with a hammer, press the ball pin out of the arm. You can perform this operation using a puller.

4. Finally, unscrew the ball pin fastening nut

5. We remove the ball pin from the hole of the pivot arm.

6. If you are removing the stand for disassembly, loosen the shock absorber rod nut with a special tool or a 22 mm box wrench, holding the rod with a 9 mm open end wrench.

7. Using a 13 mm spanner wrench, loosen the tightening of the three nuts securing the upper strut support to the car body.

8. To minimize the violation of the camber angle of the front wheels, use a punch or paint to apply marks on the bolt of the upper mounting of the steering knuckle and on the strut bracket.

9. Using a 17-mm socket wrench, unscrew the nuts of the bolts of the upper and lower fastening p

knuckle to the strut, keeping the bolts from turning with a 17 mm spanner wrench.

0. Remove the washers from the bolts (the eccentric washer of the upper bolt) and take out the bolts.

So the rack began to flow. Found a man who fixes the racks. Today I put my car on stumps and took it for repairs.

Lada Kalina Hatchback 2010, petrol engine 1.6 l., 98 l. sec., front-wheel drive, manual transmission - DIY repair

why fix it if you can just buy new ones, the prices don't bite like foreign cars)

on collapsible racks, the cartridges change and that's it, they are several times cheaper, a thousand rubles a cartridge, and I bought a SAAZ 2800 one

What kind of patron for a thousand? I took a kayaba about 2 thousand

cartridge, on the collapsible racks you unscrew the lid, throw out the old cartridge that is leaking, insert the new one. I went to buy saaz racks on Saturday, I thought well 4100 - 4200 for two I'll give it back, I almost cried in the store when they said 6 thousand 2 racks and two bumpers

I know what a cartridge is, I'm talking about its price, it's certainly a little cheaper than a rack, but it's not worth a thousand. And so, in the mind does not fit, for SAAZ 6 thousand to give? I would have given it to me for free, I would have thought to put them or not, but for my own money, fuck it is not necessary)))

Aaa, I didn’t come across such. The only more convenient cartridge is the descent / camber after replacement, you can not do it

and it's easier to change, whatever you say, you don't need to get the sour bolts out of the hub

You need to fill the grease there initially, otherwise it's a kapets

Well, my racks, apparently from the moment of buying the car, were not removed and the collapse was unlikely to be done, but in 7 years there was a horror there.

Anyway. The first time I spontaneously changed in the service, they did not lubricate, after 2 years they barely knocked me out with a sledgehammer. Then I oiled them abundantly and stuffed them with new bolts. And the collapse on our roads, I do 2 or even 3 times a year. Goes away from a strong pit

well, I was not drawn either to the right or to the left, the rubber did not eat up, I didn’t bother

It does not always pull, if control comfort is lost in the first place, for example, on the highway you start to steer a little more and not just hold the steering wheel straight, the side wind is felt more, the steering wheel does not readily go to zero from the turn, etc.

hmmmm. like there is no deficit ... we do not live in a scoop

In Perm, in a circle, pump all the racks of 3 tr. costs.

The bump stops after the oil will still fall apart, they need to be changed

In the photo, other bumpers and anthers are separately in the photo.

The racks need to be changed) and not play repairs for half the price of new ones, or maybe more)

Hello, blog readers Today we will consider the front shock absorber strut of the Lada Kalina car. We will describe how to identify malfunctions and in what order to replace the Kalina front pillar with your own hands. In a blog post, I have previously published an article about car suspension. There was a chapter "SUSPENSION TYPE MACPHERSON". It said that the main element of this type of suspension is the shock absorber strut, also called the swinging plug. As a reminder of the article, I provide a link to this article here.

Now it's time to consider in more detail the device of the front pillar on the Lada Kalina.Below is a schematic representation of the Kalina front strut assembly.

Image - Do-it-yourself repair of the front struts of the Lada Kalina

Look carefully at the detailed drawing of the front Lada Kalina strut to make the location of the parts clearer.

It can be seen from the drawing that the front strut on Kalina includes a shock absorber, a helical conical spring, a compression stroke buffer made of polyurethane foam material and an upper support, which is attached to the mudguard cup with three self-locking nuts. The Kalina shock absorber is attached to the lower part of the steering knuckle with two bolts. Upper, of which eccentric. It adjusts the camber of the front axle.

The design of the Kalina upper support differs from the previous models VAZ 2108, 2110. In the Kalina support, instead of a pressed-in thrust bearing, there is a steel sleeve welded into the rubber mass of the support itself, thus having, as it were, one piece with the support.

Support bearing VBF Lada Kalina (1118-2902840ЛВ)

In Kalina, a support ball bearing is used, which has a larger diameter and a different design compared to other types of front suspension struts. The thrust bearing is located between the upper support and the spring. Under the weight of the car, it is constantly in a compressed position, as a result of which all gaps and knocks are eliminated.

Rubber spacers for the springs of Lada Kalina (VAZ 1118-2902723-01)

Under it there is a metal cup and a spacer for the spring, made of a thick rubber mass, it is installed so that there is no contact between the metal of the spring and the cup. The rubber cushion prevents knocking from the contact of two metal parts.

SYMPTOMS OF FAULTS FRONT PILLAR

The appearance of knocking when driving on irregularities in the area of the rack. This happens when the thrust bearing has crumbled and does not perform its function properly. This also happens if the coil spring has burst.
When hitting an obstacle, the car sways for a while due to the fact that the shock absorber itself does not dampen the vibrations.
On visual inspection, if you see that the strut is wet on a dry road, it means that the front shock absorber has lost its tightness. Oil flows out of it.

REPLACEMENT OF STANDS ON KALINA VAZ 1117, 1118, 1119

So: For any of the above reasons, it turned out that the shock absorber on Kalina needs to be changed! The first thing you need to replace the racks on Kalina vases 1117, 1117, 1119 is to prepare the necessary tools ...

Wrenches for 17, 19 and 22, preferably box-type. Box wrenches make it easier to break old threads. Socket heads with similar parameters can of course be used.

A razor and a hammer, with their help it will be easier to separate the lower part of the shock absorber from the steering knuckle.

Wheel wrench for wheel removal and installation.

Pliers.

Open-end wrench to hold the stem while loosening the top nut.

Socket head for 13 with a wrench, or better with a ratchet (with it, it is faster to unscrew and tighten the nuts).

Spring ties.

In an amicable way, it would be necessary to prepare WD-40 grease, or something similar, in case where, then, the thread is very stuck and the nut or bolt does not unscrew. You also need a jack, better than two, or some kind of reliable stop, in case the car tilts and flies off the stop. You will have to work well with a hammer and a pry bar, the body will swing and therefore additional support is needed for insurance.

We place the ties on both sides of the spring, put on the hooks on the turns, then turn the studs with a key, evenly tightening on both sides to a height until the spring stops resting on the gasket.

Next, unscrew the upper nut of the shock absorber rod. Then you can easily remove the strut support on Kalina together with the bearing and other elements of the upper support. Remove the spring, and then remove the compression stroke buffer and protective cover from the shock absorber rod. To do this, you need to pull them up with a little effort.

Everything! We disassembled the old front strut of Kalina, now you can start assembling a new one ...

ASSEMBLING THE FRONT RACK KALINA

At the beginning of the assembly of the Kalina front strut, we first put on a protective cover on the rod of the new shock absorber, and then the compression stroke buffer, the so-called front strut bump stop.

Bump stop of the front pillar Lada Kalina (VAZ 1118-2902816-01)

We take new springs (if the old ones have become unusable), tighten them to the desired height and install them on the shock absorber. We install so that the lower extreme turn lies in the recess intended for it.

Supports of the front struts of Lada Kalina without bearing (VAZ 1118-2902822LV), with bearing (1118-2902820LV)

We turn the new support of the Kalina's front drain and insert the thrust bearing into it with the side on which there is an inscription or a mark "top". We put in the stop of the compression stroke and the spring cup.

Now it is the turn of the rubber gasket, the so-called "cushion" of the spring by auto mechanics. Having collected all the elements of the support of the front Kalina strut, carefully turn it over and, in this form, install it on the shock absorber rod. We set it so that the uppermost coil of the spring lies exactly in the groove of the rubber pad of the "pillow" intended for it. Then we tighten the upper stem nut.

After the ties have been removed, we check whether the spring is correctly positioned in the rack.

Next, you can install the front pillar in your regular place on the Lada Kalina car. We start by inserting the upper strut support into the body from below and attaching three nuts. Then we insert the lower part into the steering knuckle. To do this, you have to work a little, because the steering knuckle always fits tightly into its place on the bottom of the rack.It is very difficult to push the mounting bolts to the steering knuckle into place, due to the fact that the holes on the Kalina strut and on the knuckle rarely coincide.

We put the steering tip in place, tighten it and do not forget about the brake hose attachment.

After all this, you can finally tighten the lower bolts and nuts of the upper support. Performing all the same actions, we change the front pillar on the other side of the Kalina car.

IMPORTANT. Immediately after replacing the front struts of Kalina, be sure to go to the service and do the wheel alignment. Otherwise, due to the fact that the angles of the wheels will be violated in the most rude way, the tires on your car will wear out quickly and unevenly. Lada Kalina will not behave in the best way on the road, which can lead to an accident.

Finally, I would like to say that if you, following my instructions, replaced the front struts on Kalina, then in principle you can do the same, replace the same on other cars, especially VAZ-made ones. And many foreign cars have approximately the same design as on Kalina.

The same design of the front struts and Renault Logan. Only there the upper support is fastened with one nut, and the lower part is the same, except for the sizes of bolts and nuts. As shown in the article "Replacing the front struts Renault Logan". For those who have not read the article, I provide a link here.

In the last article I talked about the choice of front suspension components for my Kalina. And here I will try to describe in more detail the entire procedure for replacing these parts, from struts and springs to supports and their bearings. All this can be done in three hours, if there are no special problems with rusted nuts. To complete this repair, you will need the following tools:

Balloon wrench
Hammer and pry bar
Jack
Open-end wrench for 9 and box spanner for 22 (for unscrewing the upper rack nut and holding the stem)
Box wrenches for 17, 19 or similar heads with a crank
Pliers
Socket 13 end with ratchet or wrench
Penetrating grease
Spring ties

If you are going to change at least one of the elements of the front suspension described above, then in any case, you must completely remove the entire module. So, first of all, you need to open the hood and slightly loosen the upper nut securing the support to the rack. To do this, first we put a 22 key on the nut, and holding the 9 stem from turning with a 9 key, weaken the fastening (just make a couple of turns):

Then jack up the front of the machine and remove the wheel:

Immediately afterwards, move the brake hose to the side, having previously removed it from the engagement on the rack, as shown in the photo below:

Next, it is necessary to apply a penetrating lubricant to all connections that have to be unscrewed, first of all, to the mount of the rack to the steering knuckle:

Then it is necessary to unscrew the nut securing the steering tip to the pivot arm of the front pillar and knock out the tip from there (using a pry bar and a hammer), or press it out using a puller. As a result, the following picture is obtained:

Now you can proceed directly to the fastening of the rack at the bottom, where you should unscrew the two nuts using keys 17 and 19 (the ideal option is a head with a wrench):

Certain difficulties may arise here. Personally, everything was fine with the nuts, but then it did not work to knock out the bolts for a very long time. I had to knock through a wooden spacer, then hit the bolt with a breakdown (carefully, without damaging the thread), and only after folding the bolt from the back side with a huge lever of two knobs, it turned out to cope with it:

As you can see in the photo above, there is a thin bolt in one hole - I used it as a "breakdown" to knock my relatives out. Now it remains to unscrew the three nuts securing the front supports to the body (glass):

The last nut should not be unscrewed to the end so that the rack will hold.And then, when you disconnected it from the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the last nut and hold the stand with your other hand, lower it down:

Here, first of all, we need spring ties, which can be bought at almost any car dealership. Personally, I have them like this, in the photo below:

We put them on the coils of the spring on both sides and with the help of these devices we compress them (doing this evenly on both sides in turn so that there are no distortions):

When you see that the springs are tight enough, and do not rest against the support of the rack, you can unscrew the top nut:

Now you can remove the support along with the bearing, cup and rubber band. I did not stand on ceremony and was in a little rush - in the end, I had to then collect the old bearing. But I repeat - it is better to shoot this whole structure in assembly, and not like in my photo below:

Then you can remove the spring:

And it remains to remove the boot from the bump stop from the shock absorber rod, simply pulling it up with a little effort:

The disassembly procedure is completely finished and now you can start assembling the new Kalina front suspension module.

First of all, we put on the bump stop together with the boot on the new rack:

Then we tighten the new springs to the required moment and put them on the rack. It is important that the lowermost turn falls exactly into the groove on the rack, so to speak, to its native place:

When the spring is compressed enough, proceed to the supports and bearings. We take a new support, turn it over and insert the thrust bearing. Usually, the bearing is marked "UP", which means that this side must be inserted into the support:

We put on a cup on top of the support bearing, as shown in the picture:

And put an elastic band on top of this pancake:

Now we carefully put this whole structure on the stem of the rack and tighten the nut, keeping the stem from turning. It is important that the upper turn, during the final installation, lies exactly along the circle of the elastic so that there are no distortions. As a result, the entire SS20 front suspension module looks like this:

Then we remove the tie, also checking the uniformity of the spring fit from the bottom and top, and you can start replacing. If you put spacers, then on them, as well as on the supports, there is an arrow, which should be directed forward in the direction of the vehicle. We put it on the support studs and install the module on the car:

We also insert the stand back to the top of the glass and immediately attach the nuts. Well, then you have to sweat a little in order to get the steering fist into the place where the rack is attached. To do this, I pressed my foot on the brake disc with great effort, directing it down, and with my hand I tried to combine the whole thing. Not everything worked out right away, but after 10 minutes of trying everything worked out and the rack was installed on the car.

We perform the same operations with the second side and with it everything turns out much faster, since our hands are already full!

So far, not a word about the impressions of the new suspension, I will write a more detailed article about this tomorrow.

The support bearing of the front pillar at the Lada Kalina is a rolling element in the upper support located between the lower and upper cups. This part is intended for turning the front pillar, for the perception of axial dynamic loads, therefore this element is very important in the car's suspension.
Replacing the support bearing at Kalina is a frequent event, the reason for this is the design feature of the product. The support bearing housing in the factory is made of plastic, inside there are balls, a cage and races with raceways. The presented material describes the reasons, as well as signs of breakdown of the "support", upon detection of which it is necessary to diagnose the front pillar and the upper support, and then make repairs and replacements.
This article provides detailed instructions for replacing, as well as a complete answer to the question "Which support bearings are better for Kalina?"

Before replacing the support bearings on the Lada Kalina, you should make a diagnosis and make sure that the "support" is out of orderso check out the signs of breakage:

Clicks, knocks of Kalina's "oporniks" (audible under the hood, when the shock absorbers are working);
A crackling sound is heard from the front side under the hood (when turning);
The handling deteriorates, the backlash at the steering wheel increases;
Bumps on the road are felt through the steering wheel.

In the event that such signs are present, then a 99% chance of replacing the support bearing of the Kalina front strut is inevitable, but first make a diagnosis.
1. Park the car on a level surface, open the hood.
2. Find the top support, press this place with your palm.
3. Rock the car upwards so that the Kalina front struts and shock absorbers work.
4. If you feel or hear knocks, it means that it is time to replace the support bearing.
5. Ask the assistant to rotate the steering wheel and listen to how the unit works, in good condition the "support" functions silently.

Before disassembling and removing the Viburnum front strut with the upper supports, be sure to study the assembly of the assembly. The diagram shows the serial numbers (part numbers) of the front suspension components.

To remove the support bearings of the front struts of the Lada Kalina, you need a set of tools:
1. A set of open-end or ring spanners: 9, 17, 19, 22.
2. Head 13 with a ratchet.
3. Tie rod remover, vise, torque wrench (if possible).
4. Jack.
5. Couplings of shock absorbers springs.
6. Pliers.
7. Hammer.
8. WD-40 grease.

Replacing the supports of the front struts of Kalina begins the preparation of the car. Park the machine on a level surface, if possible on a lift or pit. Include first gear, release the parking brake. Dismantling sequence in order:

We unscrew the wheel bolts, then raise the car with a jack, or a lift, as in our case.
We get access to the brake disc, but you do not need to remove it, as well as unscrew the hub lock nut.

Moving on to the swing arm and steering rod. First, remove the cotter pin from the fastener. Next, unscrew the nut itself.
After that, we use a tip puller to press it out of the hole in the lever or, in extreme cases, use a hammer. We install the device, tighten the thread and remove the tip.

Now we disconnect the brake hose and speed sensor wire from the front strut.
Next, we find two bolts attaching the rack to the steering knuckle, lubricate them with penetrating grease.

To unscrew the nuts, we use a 17 spanner wrench, as well as a ratchet head.
The bolts will have to be knocked out, use a wooden guide so as not to damage the threads.

The bottom of the module is released, go to the top. We unscrew the three fasteners of the front pillar to the glass of the body.
While unscrewing the last nut, hold the stand, or place a stop under it, for example, a removed wheel. After that, we remove the module with the support and shock absorber assembly.

Install two ties on the springs of the removed suspension module. As shown in the photo, compress the shock absorber spring evenly on both sides.

We continue to compress the shock absorber, until the upper support is released from the spring tension, and only then unscrew the stem nut. We use the key at 19.

Now we remove the upper part of the support (cup), under which the "support" is located. We remove the old part and proceed to replacement.

Replacing and installing support bearings on Kalina begins with checking the condition of the remaining elements of the module: the lower cup, travel buffer, bumper, corrugation, shock absorber springs. They will need to be replaced if necessary. How to correctly put the support bearing on Kalina and change it is described in order below.

Before assembling the front jay, make sure that the ends of the shock spring rests against the special tabs at the lower and upper cups.
We put a rubber gasket on the top cup, on top of which a new "support", by marking the product we orient it up.

On top of the p / w we install the upper part of the support (cover).
Now we bait the nut of the shock absorber rod, which we tighten until it stops.

Unclench the shock absorber spring ties. We tighten the stem nut with a torque wrench, the moment indicated in the table at the end of the article.
We put the assembled module back, first we attach it to the glass of the body. We assemble in the reverse order: we fasten the steering tip to the lever, fasten the rack with two bolts to the steering knuckle, and at the end we mount the wheel. This completes the replacement.

Replacing the support bearing on Kalina without removing the rack is impossible, or will not be correct, but it is still possible to replace the part without further collapse. In this case, the technology for removing the rack will change:

After removing the wheel, unscrew the hub lock nut.
Disconnect the steering knuckle from the ball joint and steering rods.
Then we remove the steering knuckle from the CV joint with the strut and the shock absorber spring, thereby you will not break the camber bolts.

As practice shows, in most cases, they replace the upper support assembly. On sale there are three models of "support", which you should pay attention to when buying.
The photo below shows the original sets of supports of three companies: SEVI (SEVI). CC20 (SS20), ASOMI (ASOMI). The cost of products varies from 2000 rubles. up to 4000 rubles depending on the configuration.

Watch the video on the review of spare parts:

Video (click to play).

If you still change the support bearing separately, installing it in the old support, then you should buy from trusted manufacturers, the summary table of which and photos are presented below.
Catalog number (article) - 1118-2902840.

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