DIY fountain pen repair

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I don’t know specifically about Peter, but, for example, there is a service in branded Parker stores - if you don’t like how the pen writes, they change the pen for free (with any letter thickness to choose from), that is, dealers have the opportunity to get spare parts and replace them.

You can try to find any SC Parker, mb for some money they will try to fix a competitor's pen. For example, it makes sense to call - perhaps they have their own service, and if not, they will probably tell you where it is in St. Petersburg.

Which pen and what happened? Many things are repaired on their own or with the help of cheap donors.

In the Chinese on the right, the feather is removed by pulling the retainer with ribs STRICTLY in the longitudinal direction, without the slightest twists, otherwise it will wedge and you can only break something. For a parker, I suspect, the ring is blocking the same retainer, but I don’t know how it can be removed - it doesn’t turn on my Urbana, there is simply no such ring on Sonnets and Vectors, and I don’t have more parkers to check.

If visual inspection does not work, you can try to put it on without much effort to your native place, otherwise, IMHO it is worth looking for a knowledgeable person; This method of changing nibs was told and shown to me by one collector, before that I tried a couple of times to remove nibs from dead pens myself and it ended up equally bad

Yes, brilliant.
I tried to put on a photo already, it doesn’t work

Thrall Are the grooves, indentations, any other possible ways of attaching the ring visible?

The photo is not very good, but I can see a smooth ring with an L-shaped profile and a skirt at the end. I suspect it just snaps into the handle by pressing, but here you need neat hands and experience in assembling and disassembling the handles, otherwise you may not understand that it's time to stop.
IMHO it is worth with a pen to go to any specialized store, for sure an experienced consultant will tell you how to drive the ring back, in gratitude you can buy a couple of bottles of ink there or other little things

-BRUNO- but no show-off, the hand gets used to the pen and ball-point gel pens, then it is unpleasant to write, about how to ride a foreign car once and you won't sit in a Zhiguli. For fun - in my Chinese, to replace a broken nib, I bought a fountain pen for 48 (forty-eight) rubles, I don't even want to imagine how much of them the pen costs. But writing is still an order of magnitude more interesting than the ball.

A fountain pen is always more than just a pen, it is a faithful companion who follows you everywhere when you make a to-do list for today, cross out completed items from a work plan, write down the phone number of a beautiful girl you just met, sign greeting card or business documents. On our website you can purchase an original Parker fountain pen... The attitude to a fountain pen is always special - it is not at all the same as a simple ball penthat can be thrown away if it breaks.

A fountain pen is like Zippo lighter - it fits comfortably in the hand and pleasantly pulls back the pocket. If your beloved Parker pen fails, you will first of all think about the possibility of repair, and not about replacement.

Usually, experienced fountain pen owners know all about how to handle their pen, how to care for it, how to tidy it up if something happens to it. So our article is primarily addressed to beginners who are faced with an important problem for the first time. Why a fountain pen may require repair? After all, any Parker product is reliable and designed for centuries! Most often, it is precisely the repair of a pen that is bent as a result of a fall is required. Nobody is insured against accidents! So, the pen is bent, and this is not a cause for panic. What to do in such cases?

There are three ways to deal with the problem.

Method one, official

Contact an authorized service center. The Parker brand has official services in Russia. If there is such a service center in your city, consider that the problem has already been solved - specialists will be able to cope with almost any damage. As a last resort, a bent nib is easier to replace than trying to repair it. The main advantage of contacting a service center is the high-quality service that will be provided to you there. Typically, branded services employ professionals who already have experience in solving such problems. A significant disadvantage is the high cost of services. If we are talking about a cheap pen, it’s easier to buy a new one or try to fix the situation with more affordable means first. And if you do not live in the capital, chances are high that your city simply does not have an official service center. Then you will inevitably have to look for other options.

A jewelry workshop can help out if there is no service center in your city, or if the specialists have asked for too high a fee for their services. There are jewelry workshops of different levels in any city. Jewelry tools are quite suitable for repairing a gold feather, and a good master probably has the necessary skills. It would seem that this method has no drawbacks - and it is easier to find a jeweler, and the cost of work will be much lower than in the service. However, it is still worth considering the choice of the master very carefully. This should be a good specialist, ideally, already having experience in such work. Otherwise, you have to buy Parker again. Keep in mind that the cost of repairs from a jeweler can be up to 50% of the cost of the pen itself, so think about it: maybe the repair does not make sense at all, unless the pen is dear to you as a memory?

Method three, do it yourself

This method is suitable for fearless fountain pen owners who are not afraid to ruin their favorite item completely. If you can learn how to correct a bent nib yourself, you will be able to apply your skills more than once in the future.

The main difficulty in self-repair is removing the nib from the pen. It all depends on the model - you can remove the pen from some pens in no time, with others you need to tinker and find out exactly how this is done so as not to break the pen. Of course when you are going buy fountain pen, you will not be interested in how easily the pen is removed, and even more so, you will not foresee that after a while you may need to be repaired. Therefore, you will have to comprehend the theory in practice. In some cases, repairs can be carried out without removing the pen.

There are two ways to straighten a bent feather at home using the available tools. Experienced fountain pen owners advise using ordinary chopsticks. The first repair method is as follows: place the pen on a hard surface (a rubber or silicone mat on which the pen will not slip is ideal), and then gently iron the bent part with the sharp end of the stick until you achieve the desired result. The second method is only used if you have removed the nib from the pen. Put a chopstick on the table in front of you, place a feather on its surface, positioning it lengthwise, with the tip towards the sharp end of the chopstick. The nib should adhere to the surface of the stick as tightly as possible. Then take a second stick and gently smooth out the damaged area, as in the first method. Chopsticks are ideal for this type of repair because they are hard enough to repair damage without scratching the nib.The choice of sticks also matters - it is best to choose not round, but slightly ribbed sticks, the narrowing of which has a rectangular shape.

If you think that your parker pen is not valuable enough to contact a service or a jeweler, try to fix the damage yourself. If you succeed, it will provide you with valuable experience that may come in handy in the future. As a last resort, you can always get a new pen and try to handle it more carefully. you also can buy Zippo lighter and practice refueling it yourself.

I periodically get questions about fountain pen repair. And, more often than not, something like this: “The pen fell (was used as a dart :), the pen bent. What to do? Where can I get my pen repaired? "

There are several options for solving this problem.

Contact the dealer for the brand whose fountain pen is damaged. In Russia, there are services from Parker, Waterman, Sheaffer, Montblanc, some Italian manufacturers. Google with Yandex will help you check their availability in your city.

This solution has its advantages - you will most likely receive a completely high-quality service and you can be sure that professionals were engaged in the pen (although everything is not so simple here, but still).

There are also disadvantages: it is in your city that there may not be such a service, and even if it is, the cost of work / replacement will most likely be quite high.

A more affordable option and, most likely, more budgetary is to ask for a solution to the problem of a bent pen ...

... to a jewelry workshop. There are more than one jeweler in every city. They have tools suitable for working with small metal products and will be able to straighten the nib.

The advantage of such a solution is the availability both geographically and in terms of cost of work.

There are also disadvantages: the master must be more or less intelligent (but this, nevertheless, is not uncommon among jewelers, because they have to work with rather expensive products and, inevitably, they acquire quite high qualifications). And the big difficulty in this decision is that, for repair, the pen, most often, must be removed from the pen. In some pens, the pen is removed quite simply,

And, nevertheless, most often the jeweler can cope with the task.

So, once one of my acquaintances, who bent the pen on the Sheaffer Targa, shared his successful experience with me. And the feather on the Targa cannot be removed in any way - it is inlaid. And the master coped with the task without any removal! So there are chances.

Consequence from the above: if you bought an inexpensive pen, be prepared for the fact that, even from a jeweler, the cost of work can be 50–70% of the cost of the entire pen. And in some cases (pens from India, China, inexpensive from Germany) and exceed this cost. That is, the feasibility of repair depends on your attachment to a particular instance.

Let's start with the hardest part, take out the pen and feeder. In most of the simplest Chinese pens, the feeder nib is simply inserted tightly into the nib block.

We take a feather feeder on the index finger, press the pen with your thumb and pull it towards you (if the pen has been washed). Often there are nuances when the pen has not been washed for a long time, the ink has dried in such cases, it will be difficult to simply pull out the pen.

1. You can put the entire feather block in water to soak for a couple of hours and then try to disassemble.
2. Method with glycerin.

We take glycerolfilling into a syringe. In my case, a syringe with a dispenser attachment. We moisten the feeder, preferably at the base of the feather block, 4-6 drops are needed.

We hold the pen in an upright position with the pen upward for 5-10 minutes. When droplets of glycerin seep into the pen block, you can start disassembling.

We make the movements described earlier, the feeder is on the index finger, we press the pen with our thumb and pull it towards ourselves.

Everything is taken out like clockwork.

Then we rinse everything with water and dry.If it is difficult to return everything back, you can also dip the feeder in glycerin and insert everything back, then rinse with water and dry.

This method is good in that glycerin helps soften and prevents premature drying of the plastic parts of the handle.

You can also rinse the pen with a solution of glycerin per 100 ml of water with 5-10 ml of glycerin.

Removing the old nib is your first step. Before starting the process, put on clothes that you will not mind getting dirty, cover the table with paper or oilcloth, buy thin rubber gloves at the pharmacy - otherwise you risk staining everything around with ink, which is very difficult to wash both from the skin and from various surfaces. Especially if it is high quality and durable ink.

To remove the nib, you must first unscrew the front cover on the body. Then grab the feather and wiggle it slightly from side to side. It is not very convenient to do this with your fingers, and it is also unsafe - the pen is very sharp and you can get hurt. To remove the feather, it is best to use thin platypuses or at least pliers (very carefully so as not to damage the feeder). The pen must be taken out together with the plastic support (feeder) on which it rests. Grasp the very base of the nib with the tool, being careful not to touch the plastic ribs of the footrest, so as not to break them during removal. If you damage them, you will not be able to replace the nib, and the pen will most likely have to be thrown away. The nibs on vintage pens hold more tightly than modern ones, so you'll have to put a little more effort into pulling them out. Keep this in mind when choosing vintage pens for everyday use.

The handle must be thoroughly rinsed and dried well when disassembled. Now you need to collect it. To do this, insert the new nib into the pen body in place of the old one, and then gently rotate it until it snaps into place. Then you need to line up the channel at the tip of the pen. You can, of course, not waste time and just buy a new pen that will replace the old one. But if the old pen was dear to you, be sure to try to fix it.

There is another way to replace the nib using ordinary stationery tape. Use a cotton cloth to remove ink marks from the nib. After it's completely dry, apply duct tape to it and pull the pen along with it. Then rinse the nib in warm but not hot water.

1. Dip the pen in hot water for 5 minutes, but not in boiling water.
2. Unscrew the reservoir (left-hand thread).
3. Squeeze out the "guts", that is, the pen - feeder - collector block inside the grip.
4. Remove the pen from the feeder.

The rest is optional. You can flush all the nodes, flatten the pen, clean the feeder and manifold. Then collect it as it was. Apply a small amount of silicone sealant to the threads if necessary. Then twist.

1. Dip the pen for 5 minutes in hot water, but not in boiling water (only the grip, do not lower the pipette)
2. Unscrew the pipette (the thread is left, very often on Chinese handles there is a plastic nut with a pipette, work very carefully, do not squeeze the parts.)
3. Squeeze out the "guts", that is, the pen - feeder - collector block inside the grip
4. Remove the pen from the feeder.

About unscrewing it in 5 minutes - it will only work with Union and Sacco-Vanzetti handles. If you come across a Yaroslavl AR-36 with a step on the rear hull - like a white one, then this is a problem, especially if it is a NOS that has been lying dry for 50 years - during the 36th Yaroslavl used the most infernal bitumen mixture of all the later councils.

I have it tolerantly curled only after several days of soaking in the Ariel-automatic powder - neither the heating battery, nor it with the handle filled with water inside did not help in any way in turning the bitumen on the thread - at the most, it is a twist a couple of mm, exactly, to start scrolling the metal ring of the case ...

AP36 from the first early piston - having unwound, showed that the bitumen was stupidly hardened to plastic - even a needle did not pierce it through to the body - and this was due to the bitumen already soaked with surfactant, apparently the reason was NOS lying and drying out.

Alas, it is impossible to use crimping like pliers through a towel on 36x - the plastic of the case is hardboard, and in the early ones it is precisely translucent hardboard - much more fragile than on the later ones, it bursts very easily from any undistributed pressure at one point ... Apparently, the next 36 I will only unwind after soaking in white spirit ...

I do not recommend disassembling the AR-36 at all unless absolutely necessary - like a mascara that dried up decades ago - it is better to soak it multiple times with an automatic powder, soaking it for weeks in powder than one inept disassembly and a crack on the case.

The ink is perfectly soaked with washing powder, without any disassembly of the pen - even the ribbed sleeve of the collector will be perfectly clean after several changes of the powder solution.

In my Soviet past, the following clerical tips were used very often. I, too, shortened the rods, changed the nibs for the pens I liked, and shaded a misspelled letter or word.

Then I came across these tips in Encyclopedias of Technologies and Techniques ... Let's read, remember your childhood? 🙂

Hand support.

Make a springy arm rest out of the wire, and writing will become much easier. The part of the wire facing the arm is insulated with tape. The stand can be easily removed and put on your hand. Let's add: this trick does not allow the paper to get greasy when the hand touches the sheet, as a result of which the ballpoint pen is intermittent.

Unscrewing tight parts.

When loosening tightly screwed parts (such as handle bodies), you can use a small piece of abrasive paper.

Adhesive plaster to increase finger strength.

Use two pieces of adhesive tape or duct tape to screw on the "stubborn" nib of a fountain pen. You will immediately find that the strength of the fingers has increased by many times.

Dried ball rod.

Take your time to recharge your ballpoint pen just because the surface of the paste on the open side of the refill has dried out and the paste has therefore stopped flowing to the ball. Drop 2-3 drops of acetone into the rod, and then slightly break the crust with a needle - the pen will regain its previous performance.

Storing ballpoint refills.

A supply of ballpoint refills can be stored for years in a tightly-capped test tube without fear of the paste drying out. If dried rods are placed in a test tube with fresh rods, they will soon restore their properties.

Alteration of the rod from a ballpoint pen.

If you have a smooth refill for a ballpoint pen, and you need a refill with a spring stop, no problem. Heat the tweezers and use the tips to make two pinches on the rod.

How to thread a ballpoint pen refill.

You can recharge your favorite ballpoint pen like this: remove the writing unit from the full rod. The rod is inserted into the channel of a disposable ballpoint pen or into an empty rod and a thin wire is passed through its entire length until it stops in the ball. Then the structure is placed vertically and after a few hours an empty pen or rod will be filled with paste.

Short ball rod.

When you need to recharge a ballpoint pen, and instead of the required 107 millimeter nib, there is only an 82 millimeter knot, cut a 32 millimeter segment from the old knot and place it on a short knot. And now you can safely insert the knot composed in this way from two parts into your fountain pen.

Treatment of the staining rod.

After repeatedly refilling the ballpoint pen, the gap between the edges of the rod and the ball increases and the pen begins to write worse - it gets dirty. This defect will disappear if the end of the rod is squeezed. The simplest "crimp" can be a pushpin stuck into a tree. Place the end of the tilted bar in the corner of the button cutout and rotate it while applying slight pressure.

Leaking fountain pen.

The fountain pen cap is leaking ink. Unscrew the cap one turn and rub a piece of plasticine into the gap. Screw the cap back on. Remove the plasticine squeezed out at the same time.

To prevent the handle from leaking.

If the fountain pen begins to leak and get your hands dirty, you can fix the problem. The threads of the body and cap must be rinsed, wiped dry and greased with a layer of petroleum jelly.

Repair of imported fountain pens.

In imported ballpoint pens (Hungarian "Pax", American "Parker"), the branded large-volume writing unit can be replaced with a domestic one. It is shortened from the back side by 23 mm, the back part 25-30 mm long is cut from the used node and a new writing unit with a total length of 98 mm is assembled.

Flawless pen ink.

If a fountain pen gets clogged and refuses, it is often not about it, but about the ink. Having bought a bottle of ink, you need to filter it through a layer of filter paper and then add a teaspoon of alcohol (you can use denatured alcohol or cologne). With this ink, the pen will write flawlessly.

Refueling a fountain pen.

Use this tip whenever you need to refill the fountain pen with ink. A scrap of paper will keep your hands clean and then serve as a cleaning material.

Refueling used markers.

Used markers will still work if you refill them with ink. To prevent the ink from drying out, you need to store the markers without access to air, for example, in a vessel with water. Just check if the caps fit well enough to the body.

(True, this advice is not entirely to my liking - the ink dries and gets dirty. I refilled the markers with plain ink of different colors. You just need to let them drain well - and use it to your health!).

Multi-color ballpoint pen with pencil.

In a multicolor ballpoint pen, one of the refills can be replaced with a pencil. From the used rod, you need to pull out the writing unit and insert a piece of lead 10-15 mm long in its place.

Scraper for graphic and retouching works.

A handy scraper for graphic and retouching work can be made from a collet pencil and a piece of trapezoidal blade clamped in the collet. The number of jaws of the collet should be even; with an odd number, the blade will bend slightly.

A match instead of a poster pen.

Those who need to write a headline or announcement in large letters may be advised to write with a match inserted into a collet pencil.

Pen from the eraser.

A slice of multi-notch eraser clipped into an old brush makes the perfect poster pen.

A fountain pen.

Graphic designers often use a fountain pen with multi-colored ink and ink for art posters and murals. After working with such a pen for a long time, the pen begins to scratch and cling to the paper. To correct this defect, take a small piece of fine-grained sandpaper - "zero", and on it with pressure (not more than required for writing), make a dozen or two circular movements with a fountain pen. The nib will sand and write well. Save the sandpaper, it will come in handy more than once.

Protection of steel feathers.

All writers are well aware of how quickly steel nibs are eaten away by ink and deteriorate, even if they are thoroughly wiped after each use. Meanwhile, there is a very simple way to preserve feathers for a long time. New feathers are immersed in a solution of copper sulfate for half an hour before use; then they are taken out so that they remain moist and allowed to dry. Steel parts and nibs treated in this way will not rust or corrode inks.

In addition to this method, there is another, extremely simple way of long-term preservation of steel nibs, consisting in the fact that after writing the nib is stuck in a raw potato and left there until the next use. Alkaline potato juice weakens the oxidizing effect of ink on the nib and completely protects the latter from damage.

Removing blots from a drawing.

To remove the blot from the drawing, erase it with an ink eraser, shade this place with a soft pencil and draw a line again. Ink does not blur on graphite. Once dry, wipe off the pencil with a soft eraser.

Removing ink from a drawing.

You can remove ink from the drawing in this way: clean up the defective place with fine sandpaper, and then with the thinnest sandpaper - "zero". Then wipe with an eraser and polish with a smooth, hard object. At the same time, the paper fully retains its drawing qualities.

Cleaning the mascara with a glass shard.

It is much better to clean ink on a drawing with a piece of glass from a burned-out light bulb than with a razor blade.

How to remove greasy stains on paper.

Burnt magnesia is mixed with just enough pure gasoline to form a granular mass. With a small amount of this mass, gently rub the greasy spot with your finger, then remove small grains of magnesia from the paper. Fresh grease stains usually disappear immediately, and old grease stains are removed with repeated rubbing.

Neat line removal.

It is easy to remove a pencil line from a drawing with a small piece of rubber, clamped in a drawing pen, without affecting another one that is close to it.

The device is a scheme of a fountain pen. (Refilling with cartridges or through a converter)

I'll start with the hardest part, take out the pen and feeder. In most of the simplest Chinese pens, the feeder nib is simply inserted into the nib block.

We take a feather feeder on the index finger, press the pen with your thumb and pull it towards you (if the pen has been washed).

Often there are nuances when the pen has not been washed for a long time, the ink has dried in such cases, it will be difficult to simply pull out the pen.

1. You can put the entire feather block in water to soak for a couple of hours and then try to disassemble.

2. My favorite way. (In pictures)

We take Glycerol (sold in a pharmacy)

We fill it into a syringe. In my case, a syringe with a dispenser attachment.

We moisten the feeder, preferably at the base of the feather block, 4-6 drops are needed.

Hold the pen in an upright position with the pen up. 5-10 minutes.

When droplets of glycerin seep into the pen block, you can start disassembling.

We make the movement described earlier, the feeder is on the index finger, we press the pen with our thumb and pull it towards ourselves.

Everything can be taken out like clockwork.

Then we rinse everything with water and dry.

If it is difficult to return everything back, you can also dip the feeder in glycerin and insert everything back, then rinse with water and dry.

This method is good in that glycerin helps soften and prevents premature drying of the plastic parts of the handle. (in this case the feeder and the inside of the pen block)

You can also rinse the pen with a solution of glycerin per 100 ml of water with 5-10 ml of glycerin.

someone
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letyanin
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Pani L
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someone
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it really can be serial numbers, and since this is so, theoretically, it is possible to identify the pen on the subject of the date of production, set with nibs, on the other "union" pen I also have a number engraved, albeit with a large number of numbers and without the golden nib inscription.

Last edited by someone (Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:13:49 PM), edited 1 time in total

letyanin
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In general, I cleaned my pen, writes subtly and decently enough, but I did not touch the pen yet. tomorrow I will take it with me to lectures and test it in battle.

But I have a question:
the cap on the handle does not hold at all.Can you please tell me how you can vaporize this? I disassembled the cap, there is a plastic “cup” (I don’t know the name of this part, but it is this that should hold the cap on the handle due to friction and “seal the pen”), on which the clip is attached with the help of a springy ring and all this is fixed with one screw on top. I wanted to soften this "glass" in hot water and "squeeze" a little, but nothing happened.
The cap did not hold even before I opened it.
As a temporary solution to the problem, I applied several layers of tape wrapped around the grip section in such a way that it would not interfere with the writing.

Is registered: 13.09.2009
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Since I will not solve the problem with the cap in the near future, I will simply have to “forget” about it.

My pen's nib is “not quite working”, ink is constantly collecting, it doesn't drip, it just sticks like that.

I read the general points of correcting the pen in the next topic, but for now it’s better not to touch it, according to the principle “while it works. "

And I like the pen, besides, it removed the question of buying a new pen
and the repair of this pen cost only 10 ml of alcohol (it softens dried carcasses quite well, much faster than water, or so it seemed to me.).

As a result of this small undertaking, I can say that refueling a fountain pen with ink does not mean its “death”, but to restore this pen you need some perseverance, strong fingers and a certain amount of, one might say, courage (in order to spin the grip section, I spent the most time and physical strength). Perseverance is needed to clean up the carcasses that have softened in alcohol or water for a long time and tediously, I mainly used an ordinary needle, and cleaned the feeder with a corner of thick paper bent in half.

Last edited by Rafis (Fri Oct 07, 2011 2:41:24 PM); edited 2 times in total

someone
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duna
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Dear users of such handles produced by MZPP:

Please answer if this is a healthy phenomenon when, when turning counterclockwise the black plastic “key” (in the photo on the right) for the running nut (to feed the piston to the feather), the key with the nut rises to the end of the filling mechanism. And you have to apply additional axial force to the pen to overcome this stroke. Or have something come off?

For the case of a slightly different piston filling mechanism:

nothing like that happens!
Yuri
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I want to thank Providence and Topicstarter.
the author of the topic for having restored an object dear to me. My grandfather's pen.
Providence for the fact that coolpix turned out to be my fellow countryman.

Thank you very much, it makes me happy for two weeks already !!

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Carving is the weak point of Soviet pens.
Ideally, look for a donor pen at a flea market or online auctions. one from which you can "borrow" a broken part from you. In your case, you need to change the entire piston with the rod and, for reliability, the part (I do not know the exact name) that needs to be rotated in order for the piston to move.

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At one time, when I had the only "Union" and I did not know how to approach it (the problem was also with the stock - it generally broke), the user TriVX helped me a lot on the forum. He is from Kharkov. I sent him a pen for repair. Try to write to him in PM.
Now, of course, everything is easier. I collected old pens from my acquaintances, from which, if necessary, I take spare parts, and now I have more or less learned how to disassemble Soyuz ..

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Shina
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You can disassemble completely. That part of the handle where the piston moves, let's call the converter. It is screwed into the grip section on the thread. You need to unscrew the converter, then pull out the feather with the feeder (they are inserted into the plastic unit) in the direction where the converter stood, and start everything. clean thoroughly - there are many both annular and longitudinal grooves.
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Shina
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Dan Averyanov
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Dan Averyanov
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YuriYuV
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Dan Averyanov
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As personal experience of unwinding Soviet handles for washing, repairing or sealing has shown, it is much more convenient to use not hot water, but a hairdryer (if there is no professional one, borrowed from a spouse will do).

warm-try, warm-try, succumb? - untwist.

just in water - slippery, water helps and interferes with spinning at the same time.

Although, the method described above works 100%.

YuriYuV
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This is if the hair dryer is crappy. If it is good with normal digital temperature control, then it is impossible to overheat with a hair dryer.

It is convenient to work with a hairdryer by putting it “on the bottom” and holding the handles with both hands.

PS: It is convenient to warm up under a blanket with a hairdryer. Relevant for those who managed to get sick under NG. You need to drink plenty of water, cover yourself with a pair of sensible warm blankets and direct the flow of hot air to your heels. Set the temperature so that the legs can hardly bear it (it is possible to regulate “in the process” by the distance from the heels to the nozzle). The “pop” of the hair dryer should be outside. A construction hair dryer from such a free load does not overheat and does not burn out. As you sweat well, you can cool down and wipe off with a damp towel. The procedure can be repeated 2-3 times. The temperature knocks down perfectly. Be healthy.

YuriYuV
Regular

Is registered: 11.01.2012
Posts: 8392
From: 48.059835 \ 39.943100

This is if the hair dryer is crappy. If it is good with normal digital temperature control, then it is impossible to overheat with a hair dryer.

It is convenient to work with a hairdryer by putting it “on the bottom” and holding the handles with both hands.

PS: It is convenient to warm up under a blanket with a hairdryer. Relevant for those who managed to get sick under NG. You need to drink plenty of water, cover yourself with a pair of sensible warm blankets and direct the flow of hot air to your heels. Set the temperature so that the legs can hardly bear it (it is possible to regulate “in the process” by the distance from the heels to the nozzle). The “pop” of the hair dryer should be outside. A construction hair dryer from such a free load does not overheat and does not burn out. As you sweat well, you can cool down and wipe off with a damp towel. The procedure can be repeated 2-3 times. The temperature knocks down perfectly. Good luck. Best regards, SanTix.

Is registered: 30.08.2006
Posts: 2328
Location: Russia, Krasnoyarsk

My access to hair dryers is limited to the Soviet "Dream" at 320, it seems Watt - it's hard to overheat that. Others are “Access denied”. But there are three available for construction 1600-2000 W and another one requires easy repair. I warm the heels with Makita at 2000 W - she has a very good digital temperature control from barely warm to the melting point of the solder and this hair dryer for "clean operations", and therefore it can be put under the blanket.

Is registered: 14.04.
Posts: 13
Location: Engels

villi7
Newbie

Registered: 02.08.
Posts: 4

P.s. Yes, I almost forgot, first you need to shorten the worn out plastic cup, which is inside the cap.

Last edited by villi7 (Mon 06 Aug 2018 07:13:01); edited 1 time in total