Protecting the rock drill from dust is wasting its service life. If you want to know how you can make a dust protection for your instrument with your own hands, watch this video.
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A hammer drill is a tool that requires serious attention during its operation and disassembly. To do this, you need to know its structure, all the units included in the design of the tool. A quick orientation in the device and knowledge of how to disassemble the hammer drill will avoid unnecessary costs both financially and in terms of labor.
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A hammer drill, unlike a conventional drill, can drill concrete and other durable materials without any problems.
Any, even the most insignificant, malfunction of the device can lead to damage of a more serious nature. Step-by-step disassembly will allow you to quickly find a broken tool. It is important to know the cause of the breakdown and how to fix it. Disassembly of the tool involves adherence to a certain sequence.
To begin with, the upper assembly of the perforator is examined, which is disassembled first of all into its components. All parts are removed in the following order:
When the last part is removed, you will need to unscrew all the screws holding the case. Next, remove the cover on the handle, if any, after which it is required to disconnect each wire from the starter. Then, the brush holder is removed.
Punch device diagram.
At the next stage, the gearbox and the housing are disconnected until a gap appears, through which the switch should be removed. Next, the device should be fixed in an upright position using a vise. This will allow you to get all the details out of it.
You can use the services of the appropriate service for disassembling the punch. By doing it yourself, you can save a lot of time and money on equipment repairs. During the execution of work, you should follow the step-by-step instructions:
Disassembly begins from the upper assembly, after removing the tip, washer, and at the end - a spring with a ball.
When the ball is removed, you can begin to unscrew the screws that hold the case.
After that, remove the cover on the handle, if any, then disconnect each of the starter wires.
Remove the brush holder.
Disconnect the gearbox from the housing until there is a gap so that the switch can be removed.
Punch operation modes.
The final stage of disassembling the puncher involves vertical fixation of the tool using a vise, then all parts and spare parts are taken out of it.
The tool should be disassembled with utmost care, since it is imperative to remember the locations of the individual parts and the sequence of their removal. You should choose a special place for them, otherwise they can get lost, rolling somewhere, and the hammer will never be repaired.
Even if the hammer drill is in good working order, it still needs to be cleaned periodically for prophylaxis. For this purpose, the device is disassembled, while replacing the worn out parts. The process of disassembling tools from different manufacturers is approximately the same, with the exception of some nuances.
Before disassembling the device, the causes of breakdowns are established, which may also depend on the surface of the device. For example, very often the poor condition of the plastic boot on the cartridge is noted due to its wear.
The reasons for disassembling the punch can be the instability of work, the smell of burning, strange sounds when working with the tool.
This is the reason for the loss of the stoppers. To prevent the problem, it is necessary to use long drills while working with the tool.
The main prerequisites for repairing the device and disassembling it may be the following:
Instability of the tool.
Strange sounds when turning on the device.
The appearance of a burning smell.
In the absence of any apparent reason, the device does not hammer.
When these signs of malfunctions are identified, the question arises of the need to repair the device.
The gearbox with the device body should be carefully spread apart in different directions so that a gap of 30 to 50 mm forms between them. To begin with, you should move the switch to the "impact with drilling" position, only then remove the switch. After that, remove the housing from the gearbox.
The gearbox is an element that transfers rotation to the chuck from the electric motor. This is due to bringing the percussion mechanism into working condition. The gearbox includes a set of gears that have different shapes. It can be cylindrical, worm or conical.
Disassembly of the perforator gearbox: 1 - special ring, 2 - releasing sleeve, 3 - ring, 4 - ball, 5 - spring. Bearing shield from the casing: 22 - closing spring, 29 - ring, 30 - spring, 31 - retainer.
The unit of the device, including the gearbox, has an electronic device that is capable of adjusting the number of revolutions. It also controls the frequency of beats. This element requires periodic inspection, lubrication and replacement of worn parts. Before disassembling the perforator gearbox, the cartridge is disassembled, then the lever that switches the modes should be disconnected. This may require a flat-blade screwdriver.
For example, in order to repair the gearbox armature or its stator, three bolts are unscrewed on the back cover of the tool and the cover is removed. The tool must be disconnected from the power supply before starting work. Be sure to pay attention to the condition of the brushes. At the same time, you need to ring the power button and cable.
If a breakdown is detected after ringing, they proceed to inspect the cable, since it should be checked whether there are kinks in it. In the absence of visual damage, check each cable vein by untwisting it. After penetration into the gearbox, an inspection of such parts and spare parts as:
Phased disassembly and lubrication of the pistol-type perforator.
It is important to pay special attention to the gear teeth. If worn-out elements are found, they are replaced with new components. If they are absent, then they are thoroughly cleaned using white spirit or gasoline.
It should be noted that it is not as difficult to repair light-duty rock drills as more serious equipment, which only professionals understand. When choosing a tool of any class, it is better to purchase a model that has a vacuum cleaner. This device allows you to save time spent on cleaning the instrument. Since the amount of dust will be as low as possible, the use of the tool will be safer.
Another problem is the breakdown of the windings, which is also associated with the appearance of dust. In this case, the instrument is disassembled if thorough cleaning and replacement of all elements that cannot be repaired are required.
For prophylaxis, the device needs to be cleaned every two weeks, soaking it with varnish or grease. The choice of lubricant is made with great care. Basic rules to remember when lubricating:
Types of attachments and extensions for a hammer drill.
You should buy a solution that is produced by the same manufacturer as the perforator itself.
Diesel engine oil can be used if varnish or special oil is not available.
It is necessary to replace the brushes, which are subject to more wear and tear.
It is necessary to disassemble the perforator to replace the brushes, even if the tool is a rather expensive model. To replace the brushes, the perforator is disassembled according to the principle described above. After that, they find brushes that are worn out, remove them from the structure, put others in place.
It is best to use carbon-carbon brushes, which are optimal and not too expensive. Graphite brushes are used, which are distinguished by a long service life. Coal ones serve for a relatively short time, but they are in contact with other parts of the perforator at a qualitative level.
First, you need to determine the type of punch cartridge installed in the device. Different models are equipped with different chucks, which can be SDS collet chucks, quick release chucks and jaw chucks. In the presence of a cam chuck, a key is used to fasten the drill, which is not available in collet and quick-release ones.
The order of disassembling the punch: knocking on the head of the screw to loosen, unscrewing the screw with a screwdriver, clamping the chuck in a vice and turning the spindle.
When starting to replace the cartridge, be sure to study the method of fastening the part. Fastening can be done with spindles or screw rods. With a very strong fixation, it is impossible not to use additional equipment.
As an easy replacement method, you can get by with a hammer, screwdriver, or wrench. When disassembling the tool holder, the following types of actions are carried out:
To loosen the fixing of the screw, you need to knock on its head.
It is necessary to unscrew the screw using a screwdriver.
The chuck is clamped in a vice and the spindle is rotated.
To troubleshoot a tool with your own hands, all actions must be carried out in accordance with a certain order:
If no breakdowns are visible during a visual inspection of the perforator, then the next step is to disassemble it.
It is required to remove the switch lever with extreme care, since improper disassembly may be associated with breakage of fragile parts.
The rubber cap is detached, which is sometimes changed to protect the barrel of the instrument.
If you have a collapsible cartridge, proceed as follows:
remove the brushes;
unscrew the screws;
remove the case;
disassemble decaying parts and parts;
make a follow-up inspection;
replace defective elements and their subsequent lubrication.
Often, the tool holder is disassembled for debugging or replacement of parts and spare parts, lubrication or cleaning.
VIDEO Disassembly is carried out based on knowledge of the cartridge design. When a tool is disassembled, the question always arises of how it can be assembled. This is done according to the instructions explaining how to disassemble the device, only in reverse order.
the smell of burning;
the appearance of unnatural additional sounds;
unstable operation or decreased performance of the hammer drill.
If at least one of the above points has arisen, you should stop work immediately - your hammer drill needs repair. But before you start troubleshooting the punch yourself, you need to figure out its internal structure.
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With the engine mounted horizontally.
With a vertical motor.
In all other respects, all the details of the hammer drill are basically the same.
The hammer drill consists of two parts: electrical and mechanical.
Engine control device.
Start and stop button.
Interference suppression elements (capacitor, chokes);
Power cord.
In some models, the switch is combined with a control device.
Some models can be equipped with additional parts:
mode switch;
a vacuum cleaner;
depth limit;
other.
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Before proceeding with the repair, the unit must be disassembled. Each model has its own nuances of disassembly. But in most cases, any model consists of two parts : front and rear halves, screwed together. Before unscrewing them, you need to remove the cartridge. On some models, the cartridge can be left on.
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Malfunctions can also be of two types: associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill and mechanical failures.
This could be due to a broken wire. Very often the cord breaks near the handle itself.
Replace the entire cable or shorten part of it at the point where the break occurred. If the rupture occurs somewhere in the middle, strip it of insulation, connect the parts, carefully insulate the cord.
Poor contact of the elements of the trigger.
Such damage can occur due to oxidation or burnout of the contacts.
Clean the elements or replace them with new ones.
Damage to the extinguishing mechanism.
From a heavy load, parts of this mechanism simply burn out.
can connect the motor directly , but it should be borne in mind that with this method of troubleshooting, the wear of the motor increases several times. It is best used only in extreme cases.
Burnout of UUD. There are no options - you need to change the mechanism.
Broken winding. Such a breakdown is unlikely to be fixed by yourself. Need to rewind.
Sparks can be caused by the brushes not fitting snugly against the armature. Such the malfunction occurs for two reasons : Brush wear or moisture penetration into the brush body is damp.
Insert new brushes or dry them and clean them with a fine-grained sandpaper.
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This may also indicate oxidation of the armature due to moisture ingress.
Clean the anchor. Important do this procedure carefully so as not to damage the winding. An eraser or cotton swab moistened with rubbing alcohol is best for this.
Visually inspect all elements. If the problem is in the brushes, replace it, in case of a motor jam, eliminate the malfunction (below there is a description for mechanical damage).
With mechanical damage it is a little more difficult: the hammer drill consists of many parts, so it may not be possible to immediately establish the cause of the breakdown. The main thing, carefully visually inspect all the details , and after identifying a breakdown, carefully eliminate it. Here are the main possible damages that you can fix yourself.
The device turns on, but does not hammer.
Switch. Most devices are equipped with mode switches. This mechanism is susceptible to breakdowns. If the hammer drill stops hammering, most likely the reason is the worn out fingers of the switch. During work they are in constant contact with rotating parts and this leads to wear and tear.
The branch of the retainer, which holds it in the gearbox housing, has broken, which contributes to spontaneous switching of modes. You don't have to change the retainer, if you are not confused by this problem, the punch will still work.
Replace switch. But if there is no suitable switch, and the work cannot be stopped, then you can turn the worn part 180 degrees and you can continue working.
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Change the lubricant twice a year.
Every six months a routine inspection of the brushes.
Thorough cleaning every time after use.
Lubricate the back of the drill or chisel before work to reduce the load on the firing pin.
If the hammer drill stops working normally or there is a breakdown, read the instructions and inspect it carefully. Before you start repairing yourself, really assess your capabilities. If you are sure, try to fix it with your own hands, otherwise, if in doubt, it is better to contact a specialist. And remember that already repaired mechanisms are not subject to warranty obligations and they are reluctantly taken by service centers for repairs.
VIDEO Anyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult its operating conditions are. That is why do-it-yourself punch repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything regarding the repair of this tool.
Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, correct use of the tool will save you from serious damage, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, the device was repaired on time. At the same time, any small failure should already become a cause for concern and preparation for repair.
So, such "beacons" can be:
Unstable work of the punch in the working mode;
The appearance of strange sounds when turning on the punch;
The smell of burning;
The hammer drill does not hammer, although there is no apparent reason for this.
As soon as something like this happens to your equipment, it means it's time to repair. Like any such work, it requires care, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowledge of how to cope with it. And your very first step in repairing is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything down to the nuances - how, what and why!
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Just imagine that your tool suddenly stops working or you urgently need to replace any defective part. The easiest way is to take the hammer drill to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for a while. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because there will be no need to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.
Instructions for parsing the tool:
We start work, starting from the upper unit: first, the rubber tip is removed, then the washer, the spring, the ball finishes working.
After you have removed the ball, we unscrew the screws that hold the case, remove the cover on the handle, if available, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.
We remove the brush holder.
The next step is to separate the gearbox and housing until a gap forms. It is through it that we will retrieve the switch.
After that, the punch body is placed vertically, with the help of a vise, it is fixed, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.
Whatever breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.
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You should be as prepared as possible to repair a device such as a hammer drill, which will keep financial and labor costs to a minimum. It's not bad if you are more or less familiar with the construction of a punch, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. Most often, the repair of a perforator is reduced to a banal replacement of the "flying" elements, which include:
Anchor;
Brushes;
Gears;
Starters;
Bearings;
Network cables;
Switches.
It is worth noting that the easiest way to repair tools of a light class, given the fact that such a hammer drill is perfect for construction work at home. ... But breakdowns of more serious equipment are much more difficult, and only professional craftsmen can handle them. In any case, no matter what class of tool you are interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner - this device will save you time for cleaning, and also make your work safer, as it reduces the amount of dust.
Another problem is the breakdown of the windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise from dust. Repair consists in thorough cleaning and replacement of those parts that cannot be repaired. However, "prevention" is a more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, soak it with varnish or grease. By the way, the choice of a lubricant must be carefully considered. So, there are several rules. First, it is better to purchase a solution from the same manufacturer (Bosch, Makita, Enkor ), as the perforator itself, in this case, in terms of its composition, oil or varnish will be ideal. If such a composition is not at hand, a diesel engine oil is perfect for you.
The second most common cause of breakage is brush wear, no matter how much your tool costs - even the most expensive models are prone to this problem. It is very easy to replace them: we disassemble the perforator according to the above-described scheme, find worn-out brushes and put new ones in their place.You just need to correctly determine which of them is best used: coal, graphite or carbon-graphite. So, graphite ones have a long service life, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Carbon elements have a short life, but they have high-quality contact with other parts of the hammer drill. The purchase of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.
There are also problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model is equipped with switching modes, and they often fail, especially on cheap devices. The algorithm of work is the same - we disassemble the puncher, find the broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to purchase items suitable for this model. A similar problem often "haunts" cartridges that are exposed to maximum stress. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt by rinsing the elements with grease. But if the cartridge is still broken, we will have nothing to do but change it.
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Now you know how to fix a hammer drill and see that most of the breakdowns come down to simple cleaning or replacing faulty parts. But if you disassembled the tool, and there are no apparent reasons, it is better to take the device to a service center - specialists will quickly find the cause and eliminate it.
The principle of operation of the Bosch 2-26 hammer drill is no different from the famous brands of hammer drills.
But different firms that produce rock drills have their own design features.
Bosch rotary hammers are considered the best in the power tool segment. But nothing is eternal.
If your Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 rotary hammer stops working, then you can restore it yourself. You need to have basic locksmith skills and a little knowledge of electrical engineering.
When repairing power tools, including repairing Bosch rotary hammers, strictly follow the safety precautions when working with electrical appliances.
To facilitate the repair of the Bosch rotary hammer, its disassembly and assembly, study the tool assembly diagram:
Any disassembly of the bosch 2-26 perforator begins after inspection, test switching and identifying the causes of the device malfunction.
Video disassembly of the Bosch rotary hammer 2-26
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Since the order of disassembly of drills Bosch 2-20; 2-24; 2-26 is almost the same, consider the sequence of disassembly using the example of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer.
Dismantling the Bosch GBH 2-26 dre rotary hammer begins with the disassembly of the quick-release chuck.
Two types of chuck are most commonly used in Bosch rock drills: SDS-plus chucks and SDS-max chucks. The difference between them is in the principle of clamping the tail of the working organ.
The device of the Bosch hammer drill chuck differs in the design of the tool landing rods, depending on the SDS-plus or SDS-max model. In addition to the listed types of cartridges, there are SDS-top, SDS-quick cartridges.
The procedure for disassembling the cartridge of the Bosch 2-26 perforator is simple:
remove the rubber tip, pos. 34;
take out the retaining ring, pos. 87;
remove the steel washer pos. 833;
remove the conical spring, pos. 833;
carefully, so as not to lose it, using a magnet, remove the barrel balls pos. 89.
Inspect all parts of the cartridge carefully.
SDS-plus chucks have been specially developed for drilling tools. The diameter of the tool shanks is 10 mm, the length of the working tool is in the range of 110 ... 1000 mm. The diameter of the drills is in the range of 4 ... 26 mm.
Putting the puncher on its side, remove the mode switch pos. 832.
First, turn the switch to the “Drilling” position, press the screwdriver all the way into the end face of the switch button (it is red) and turn the switch counterclockwise through an angle of 70º.
While wiggling the switch handle, pull the switch handle out of the housing.
Putting the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer vertically on the handle, unscrew the four screws, pos. 90, holding the housing cover of the mechanical assembly.
Press down on the end of the percussion shaft and remove the cover. Black plastic cover.
Now you need to remove the barrel poz.821 and the intermediate shaft poz.826. They are not fixed by anything.
Then, using a screwdriver, you need to remove the bracket pos. 48 of the rolling bearing pos. 830. By the way, in a simple way it is called "drunken bearing". Sequentially removed: sleeve poz.26 and "drunken bearing".
disassembly of the Bosch perforator barrel assembly begins from the side of the cavity, taking out the cylinder pos.26 from it with the drummer pos.27;
the firing pin assembly must be removed from the cavity;
from the side of the chuck shaft, remove the retaining ring, pos. 85, the steel ring, pos. 38, and one more retaining ring, pos. 85;
remove the spur gear, pos. 22.
A striker, pos. 27, is inserted inside the cylinder, from which it is necessary to remove the rubber ring, pos. 73. For any disassembly, rubber parts must be replaced without fail.
At the opposite end of the cylinder, a hinge, pos. 29, and two flat washers, pos. 41, are inserted.
The intermediate shaft is disassembled by removing the shaft, pos. 24, and by pulling the "drunk bearing" out of the housing, pos. 77.
Bearings are removed with pullers or manually using a tool.
Bosch rotary hammers are very reliable. But there are malfunctions that practically do not occur in practice. Below is one of them.
If the hammer drill has stopped hammering, but still allows drilling, the most likely cause may be the destruction of the "drunken bearing". This malfunction is not common and it is not easy to find it.
You don't have to go to a repair shop to fix it. Any person who is more or less versed in mechanics will eliminate such a malfunction.
First you need to disassemble the Bosch hammer drill to the intermediate shaft. Disassembly procedure is shown above.
Removing the intermediate shaft, you get to the "drunk bearing". Broken cage, scattered balls, cage pieces indicate the destruction of the rolling bearing.
Take out the bearing, remove the dirt, all parts of the destroyed mechanism.
You buy a new "drunken bearing", and after lubricating all the parts with new grease, replace and assemble in the reverse order of the steps for disassembly.
Dismantling the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer, its electrical part, begins by removing the back cover on the handle of the puncher by unscrewing three screws.
The next step is to remove the reverse switch.
Turn it to neutral and lift it towards you. The reverse switch is removed.
To remove the stator cover, it is necessary to hold the mechanical unit in your right hand, and to the left stator housing, pull them in different directions, shaking them.
To separate the rotor from the mechanical unit, it is enough to drag these parts in different directions. The rotor is attached to the mechanical assembly by a small helical gear that is inserted into contact with the large helical gear of the mechanical assembly.
The rotor has been released and you can carefully inspect the condition of the collector and bearings.
To remove the stator, it is enough to remove the protective plastic protective casing, and knock with a wooden blank or mallet on the end of the housing, into which the stator is inserted. Before doing this, do not forget to unscrew the two screws holding the stator in the housing.
The stator is removed, the rotor is taken out, you can proceed to their inspection and defect detection of all parts that make up the electrical part of the Bosch rotary hammer.
When examining the disassembled Bosch 2-26 hammer drill, pay special attention to the condition of the carbon brushes, the coating on the brush holders and the reliability of their attachment, the integrity of the reverse switch contacts, and the state of the wire at the point of entry into the hammer drill.
The length of the brushes should not be shorter than 8 mm. There should be no traces of sparking and carbon dust from the brushes on the brush holders; there should be no burnouts or damage to the contacts on the contacts of the reverse switch of the Bosch 2-26 perforator.
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