DIY bosch gbh 11 de perforator repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a bosch gbh 11 de perforator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Nothing is eternal. And the most reliable Bosch rock drills start to break down over time. But any malfunction can be repaired by hand if you have a detailed guide on how to carry out repair work. Below we offer you a guide to troubleshooting Bosch rotary hammer drills and how to troubleshoot them.

careless work with the tool;
improper storage of the punch;
heavy loads when working on the working bodies when chiselling or drilling;
overheating of the tool;
long-term work without interruption;
failure to comply with the terms of maintenance.

Conditionally, faults can be divided into mechanical and electrical.

Next, we will consider the faults according to their belonging, dividing them into mechanical and electrical faults.

When mechanical malfunctions appear in the operation of the instrument, an extraneous unpleasant sound appears, sparking increases in the collector area, a burning smell appears, the instrument heats up unnecessarily, its power decreases depending on the duration of work and the effect on the material.

We will consider all the malfunctions on the Bosch 2-26 perforator diagram. Other models, such as Bosch 2-20, 2-24, differ in the design of the intermediate shaft, the installation of various drunk bearings.

The hammer drill does not hammer under load or idle for the following reasons:

the rubber rings of the striker, striker, piston are worn out;
the rolling bearing cage has collapsed;
the cylinder collapsed, the firing pin of the barrel of the percussion mechanism;
cut the splines of the clutch installed on the intermediate shaft;

Video (click to play).

The main reasons for which a hammer drill hammers, but does not drill, are:

the force of the conical spring that presses the clutch has weakened;
the locking roller does not fix the large gear of the barrel shaft;
does not hold the tool locking mechanism in the barrel;
The hammer drill does not hammer or drill.

The main reasons why the hammer drill does not hammer or drill are:

sheared teeth on the small rotor gear or on the large countershaft gear;
the electric motor of the perforator does not work;
there is no power to the hammer drill motor.

Wear of rubber rings on the striker, striker, piston.

This reason appears gradually, as the rubber rings wear out. At first, the blow weakens, then disappears altogether.

The malfunction is eliminated by replacing the indicated rubber rings with new ones.

For any repair of perforators, its assemblies, all rubber products are subject to replacement.

When the drunk bearing, pos. 830, is destroyed, the rotary movement of the intermediate shaft cannot be converted into the translational movement of the cylinder in the percussion mechanism.

Eliminated by completely replacing the rolling bearing.

There are times when the drummer bites into the cylinder poz.26, which leads to the destruction of the cylinder and the impossibility of creating air pressure in the barrel of the impact mechanism. And the second reason: destruction or breakage of the striker pos. 28, leading to the curvature of the part and the impossibility of transmitting the shock impulse.
Breakdowns are eliminated by complete replacement of the failed parts.

The malfunction is eliminated by repairing the clutch or completely replacing it.
During repairs, worn-out teeth are filed on the clutch. To correct this defect, a round file and a drill are used. The clutch is clamped in the hand, and the tooth profiles are straightened with a drill with an appropriate file. The splines on the intermediate shaft are modified in a similar way.

When the spring pressure (pos. 50) decreases, the clutch slips on the intermediate shaft, without transferring rotation from the small spur gear to the large gear (pos. 22) of the barrel shaft (pos. 821) of the percussion mechanism. By the way, the clutches are arranged differently on different Bosch models.

The large gear wheel, pos. 22, is mounted on the shaft of the barrel, pos. 01, by the roller, pos. 88, pressed against the shoulder of the shaft by a conical spring, pos. 80, and fixed with a retaining ring, pos. 85.

The reason may be a weakening of the force of the conical spring, pos. 80, destruction of the retaining ring, pos. 85, falling out of the fixing roller, pos. 88.

Bosch rotary hammers use two types of chuck: SDS-plus and SDS-max. The difference is in the design of the locking mechanism.

The reason is the wear of the antennae of the raster sleeve of the chuck, which leads to the impossibility of transmitting the shock pulse to the working tool of the perforator.

There is a rotation of the gears with cutting teeth on one of them, more often on a small one.

When the working tool is jammed and the clutch does not work properly, wear or complete destruction of the gear teeth on the perforator shaft and the intermediate shaft occurs.

In this case, the rotor or the large gear of the intermediate shaft is completely changed.

The reasons for a not working electric motor can be:

short circuit in the rotor, stator;
destruction of coal electric brushes;
weakening of the fastening of the brush holders;
burnout of lamellas on the rotor manifold;
breakage of the rotor or stator windings.

The listed malfunctions are eliminated by repair (rewinding the winding manually, replacing the collector and wiring the winding leads) or replacing the rotor, stator, carbon electric brushes with new ones.
The main part of the malfunctions of the electrical part of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer is confirmed by increasing sparking in the collector area.

The length of serviceable electric brushes cannot be less than 8 mm. When replacing one brush, the second should change automatically.

The rotor or stator windings can be rewound independently with your hands at home.

The reason for this malfunction is a break in the wire that supplies power to the electric motor. Most often, a break occurs at the point where the cable enters the puncher. The wire should be replaced with a new one or repaired. The malfunction can be determined using a tester. If there is no tester, the fault can be found using the power phase and a screwdriver with an indicator neon lamp. Connecting the power wires in turn, at the other end, using a neon screwdriver, determine the presence or absence of a phase.

The punch power button does not work. Determined by the short circuit tester.

Most often, a short circuit of the filter capacitor leads to the failure of the punch button. It is best to replace the button with a new one.

Failure of the punch in the electrical part is accompanied by the appearance of a burning smell, strong heating of the tool during operation, the appearance of large sparking in the area of the punch rotor collector, and poor response of the reverse switch.

The operation of the perforator is influenced by the condition of the carbon brushes, the reliability of the attachment of the brush holders and their correct installation.

A burning smell appears when the stator or rotor windings are short-circuited.

A drop in the power of the perforator with increasing load is characteristic when there is a break in the rotor windings or with a short length of carbon brushes.

A short inter-turn circuit in the stator or rotor most often leads to heating of the perforator.

Large sparking in the collector area is caused by interturn closure of the rotor or burnout of the collector lamellas.

Disruption of the reverse switch occurs due to the burning of its contacts.

But the main reason for all breakdowns is the untimely performance of technical maintenance work and the replacement of carbon brushes.

Carbon brushes need to be replaced after 70 hours of operation or when worn up to 8 mm in length.

We have given the main reasons for the failure of Bosch rotary hammers.
Perhaps we have not described all the breakdowns of Bosch rotary hammers.

If you know other malfunctions with Bosch rotary hammers 2-20, 2-24, 2-26, share with us.

Video of replacing the raster bushing in the Bosch chuck 2-26

Video: Replacing the raster bushing (chuck) with Bosch GBH 2 26 DRE / How to change the chuck for 2-26

Video of replacing the anchor in the Bosch rotary hammer 2-26

Video: How to change the armature for 2-26 Bosch (Replacing the rotor for 2-26) Image - DIY bosch gbh 11 de punch repair

Due to the ingress of dust, dirt, moisture, the internal lubricant becomes solid over time and does not fulfill its purpose. The punch starts working.

To tell how to paint the ceiling with acrylic paint, a professional painter can, as they say, "without regaining consciousness." Indeed, technology.

Home renovation is troublesome, especially when it comes to interior decoration, which sets the tone for the entire interior. Having errors can ruin everything.

The principle of operation of the Bosch 2-26 hammer drill is no different from the famous brands of hammer drills.
The rotating rotor transmits torque to the intermediate shaft of the mechanical unit of the rock drill, while transmitting the translational motion through the rolling bearing to the hammer mechanism of the rock drill and the impact impulse. A rotational moment with a translational shock impulse is transmitted to the working tool. This principle is implemented in all rotary hammers.

But different firms that produce rock drills have their own design features.

Bosch rotary hammers are considered the best in the power tool segment. But nothing is eternal.

If your Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 rotary hammer stops working, then you can restore it yourself. You need to have basic locksmith skills and a little knowledge of electrical engineering.
And another important detail, the design of Bosch rotary hammers is so simple that it does not cause difficulties during repair.

When repairing power tools, including repairing Bosch rotary hammers, strictly follow the safety precautions when working with electrical appliances.

To facilitate the repair of the Bosch rotary hammer, its disassembly and assembly, study the tool assembly diagram:

Drill diagram Bosch 2-26

Any disassembly of the bosch 2-26 perforator begins after inspection, test switching and identifying the causes of the device malfunction.

Video disassembly of the Bosch rotary hammer 2-26

Since the order of disassembly of drills Bosch 2-20; 2-24; 2-26 is almost the same, consider the sequence of disassembly using the example of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer.Dismantling the Bosch GBH 2-26 dre rotary hammer begins with the disassembly of the quick-release chuck.Two types of chuck are most commonly used in Bosch rock drills: SDS-plus chucks and SDS-max chucks. The difference between them is in the principle of clamping the tail of the working organ.The device of the Bosch hammer drill chuck differs in the design of the tool landing rods, depending on the SDS-plus or SDS-max model. In addition to the listed types of cartridges, there are SDS-top, SDS-quick cartridges. Image - DIY bosch gbh 11 de punch repair

The difference between the attachment points of the cartridges

The procedure for disassembling the cartridge of the Bosch 2-26 perforator is simple:

remove the rubber tip, pos. 34;
take out the retaining ring, pos. 87;
remove the steel washer pos. 833;
remove the conical spring, pos. 833;
carefully, so as not to lose it, using a magnet, remove the barrel balls pos. 89.

SDS-plus chuck

Inspect all parts of the cartridge carefully.

Disassembled SDS-plus quick release chuck

SDS-plus chucks have been specially developed for drilling tools. The diameter of the tool shanks is 10 mm, the length of the working tool is in the range of 110 ... 1000 mm. The diameter of the drills is in the range of 4 ... 26 mm.

Putting the puncher on its side, remove the mode switch pos. 832.

First, turn the switch to the “Drilling” position, press the screwdriver all the way into the end face of the switch button (it is red) and turn the switch counterclockwise through an angle of 70º.

While wiggling the switch handle, pull the switch handle out of the housing.

Putting the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer vertically on the handle, unscrew the four screws, pos. 90, holding the housing cover of the mechanical assembly.

Press down on the end of the percussion shaft and remove the cover.Black plastic cover.

Now you need to remove the barrel poz.821 and the intermediate shaft poz.826. They are not fixed by anything.

Then, using a screwdriver, you need to remove the bracket pos. 48 of the rolling bearing pos. 830. By the way, in a simple way it is called "drunken bearing". Sequentially removed: sleeve poz.26 and "drunken bearing".

Got to the drunken bearing

disassembly of the Bosch perforator barrel assembly begins from the side of the cavity, taking out the cylinder poz.26 with the drummer poz.27;
the firing pin assembly must be removed from the cavity;
from the side of the chuck shaft, remove the retaining ring, pos. 85, the steel ring, pos. 38, and one more retaining ring, pos. 85;
remove the spur gear, pos. 22.

Impact mechanism assembly, countershaft and drunken bearing

A striker, pos. 27, is inserted inside the cylinder, from which it is necessary to remove the rubber ring, pos. 73. For any disassembly, rubber parts must be replaced without fail.

At the opposite end of the cylinder, a hinge, pos. 29, and two flat washers, pos. 41, are inserted.

The intermediate shaft is disassembled by removing the shaft, pos. 24, and by pulling the "drunk bearing" out of the housing, pos. 77.

Bearings are removed with pullers or manually using a tool.

Bosch rotary hammers are very reliable. But there are malfunctions that practically do not occur in practice. Below is one of them.

If the hammer drill has stopped hammering, but still allows drilling, the most likely cause may be the destruction of the "drunken bearing". This malfunction is not common and it is not easy to find it.

You don't have to go to a repair shop to fix it. Any person who is more or less versed in mechanics will eliminate such a malfunction.

New drunk bearing

First you need to disassemble the Bosch hammer drill to the intermediate shaft. Disassembly procedure is shown above.

Removing the intermediate shaft, you get to the "drunk bearing". Broken cage, scattered balls, cage pieces indicate the destruction of the rolling bearing.

Take out the bearing, remove the dirt, all parts of the destroyed mechanism.

You buy a new "drunk bearing", and after lubricating all the parts with new grease, replace and reassemble in the reverse order of the disassembly steps.

Dismantling the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer, its electrical part, begins by removing the back cover on the handle of the puncher by unscrewing three screws.

The next step is to remove the reverse switch.

Turn it to neutral and lift it towards you. The reverse switch is removed.

To remove the stator cover, it is necessary to hold the mechanical unit in your right hand, and to the left stator housing, pull them in different directions, shaking them.

Separation of the impact unit with rotor and stator

To separate the rotor from the mechanical unit, it is enough to drag these parts in different directions. The rotor is secured to the mechanical assembly by a small helical gear that is inserted into contact with the large helical gear of the mechanical assembly.

The rotor has been released and you can carefully inspect the condition of the collector and bearings.

Rotary hammer bosch

To remove the stator, it is enough to remove the protective plastic protective casing, and knock with a wooden blank or mallet on the end of the housing, into which the stator is inserted. Before doing this, do not forget to unscrew the two screws holding the stator in the housing.

The stator is removed, the rotor is taken out, you can proceed to their inspection and defect detection of all parts that make up the electrical part of the Bosch rotary hammer.

When inspecting the disassembled Bosch 2-26 hammer drill, pay special attention to the condition of the carbon brushes, the bloom on the brush holders and the reliability of their attachment, the integrity of the reverse switch contacts, and the state of the wire at the point of entry into the hammer drill.

The length of the brushes should not be shorter than 8 mm. There should be no traces of sparking and carbon dust from the brushes on the brush holders; there should be no burnouts or damage to the contacts on the contacts of the reverse switch of the Bosch 2-26 perforator.

Electrical part of the Bosch rotary hammer

A week ago, this device (Bosch GBH 11 DE) began to live its own life. can someone tell me what could be the reason - tk.reluctance to wait for Monday to go to the service.

Symptoms: It turns on, everything works fine - rotation, impact, everything is normal. After a while you turn it off, but it does not turn on the bastard again. This has been observed several times already. The next day usually works like a nice little one.

Conix wrote:
The next day usually works like a nice little one.

see the cable at the input to the perforated and inside.

Lomaster wrote:
see the cable at the input to the perforated and inside.

the same thing is exactly the same with such a perforation, ordinary el-k disassembled and eliminated the defect right on the object for 5 minutes and it seems it was a button and a cord

I missed the word contact in the Chukchi

Feel the electrician. rightly said. Start with the cord, kink is likely.

I felt it, the cord is in order, the power button is also working properly, but it seemed strange that the brushes do not move smoothly in the guides, but with some effort - there is a suspicion that they are worn out + dust on the guides - so they do not reach.

It may well be. This is found in perforators. The brush holder becomes clogged with dust and dirt, after which the carbon brush does not reach the collector. Or the collector starts to burn due to poor fit.
You can also check the condition of the insulation of the stator wires.

Such garbage on the AEG perf was eventually burned out, the rotor was changed under warranty

Today I dig deeper into the perforations, cleaned the brush guides, noticed that one brush was worn out as expected - in a semicircle, and the other had a chip on one side. maybe some rubbish has flown between the brush and the collector - xs.

on the plastic part that presses the rotor, a certain contact was found in the form of a spoon sticking out to the side, during assembly it was just connected to the starting block. Here, carbon deposits were found on it at the point of contact - something seems to me to be the culprit of my troubles. Tomorrow - = in the fields = - I will test it.

A question for connoisseurs: maybe it is worth rubbing this chipped brush to the collector with a sandpaper? In connection with the breakdown, I began to study the question - it seems like when installing new brushes it is supposed to grind, right?

Service-man wrote:
You can also check the condition of the insulation of the stator wires.

I apologize for the lamer question - can you check this at home?

Conix wrote:
maybe it is worth rubbing this chipped brush to the collector with a sandpaper?

Conix wrote:
it seems like when installing new brushes it is supposed to grind, right?

No. Themselves will get used to it in a few minutes of work on XX.

Conix wrote:
on the plastic part that presses the rotor, a certain contact was found in the form of a spoon sticking out to the side, during assembly it was just connected to the starting block. Here, carbon deposits were found on it at the point of contact - something seems to me to be the culprit of my troubles.

Quite possible. Tighten the terminal to ensure a secure contact.

Conix wrote:
A question for connoisseurs: maybe it is worth rubbing this chipped brush to the collector with a sandpaper? In connection with the breakdown, I began to study the question - it seems like when installing new brushes it is supposed to grind, right?

Do not rub in any way, you will not get it right, and the place of contact on the brush should be an “arc”. When installing new brushes, lapping takes place by simple switching on and idling for an average of 5-15 minutes.
In your case, if the rest of the units are working properly, I advise you to change the carbon brushes.

Conix wrote:
I apologize for the lamer question - can you check this at home?

At home it is also possible if you disassemble the engine. This means a visual inspection of the broken insulation (scuffs, abrasions, wire bends, violation of the protection of the coils).
You can also ring the stator coils with any tester by setting the value with the switch to 20 or 200 Ohm to your taste))).
The resistance of one coil of your stator should be between 0.76 and 1 ohm.
The resistance of the louvres on the manifold of your rotor should be between 0.80 and 1.04 ohms.

In the last section, we looked at how to repair a drill with your own hands.Repair of a hammer drill is somewhat different, but in many respects it has similarities. The entire electrical part is repaired in the same way and I will not repeat myself here.

One of the features of the rock drill is working in a dusty environment. As we know, a collector motor is cooled by a fan on its axis, forcing air through the stator windings. The cooled air contains dust particles that rub against the stator and armature windings, which leads to rapid wear of the insulating varnish. When the varnish is worn out, there is a high probability of breakdown of the windings, which will lead to the inevitable rewinding of the armature and stator. In order to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to do maintenance of the punch from time to time. It includes: disassembly, cleaning from dirt and dust, impregnation of windings with varnish, drying of varnish and assembly. It is clear that maintenance takes time and effort, but maintenance takes much less money and nerves than repairs.

A special feature of the puncher repair is the repair of the mechanical part. Almost any rock drill has a mechanism for switching the operating modes of the rock drill. The hammer drill can work: rotation with a fight, fight and rotation. This mechanism carries out all these actions. Defects are determined visually after disassembly, worn parts must be replaced.

The hammer drill has a component subject to constant load - this is the chuck. Since a constant load is placed on the chuck, it often fails. In order to prolong the life of the cartridge, it is necessary to prevent dust and dirt from entering it. At regular intervals, depending on the load of the perforator, the cartridge must be washed out, for example, with gasoline. If necessary, blow out with compressed air and add new grease. When the cartridge is worn out, it must be replaced.

A feature of some rotary hammers is the presence of a cartridge detachment mechanism. If there is a mechanism, the cartridge is changed with several movements of the hand. Let me give you an example from life. About four years ago I had a Chinese drill and a bosch hammer drill. I used this punch for about a year. The parts of the rock drill were worn out, their cost was just over half the cost of a new rock drill. I decided to buy a new hammer drill. The year of work of the hammer drill did not suit me and I decided to purchase the makita hammer drill with a replaceable chuck. The Chinese drill is still gathering dust on the shelf, and the hammer drill pleases the eye with its efficiency.

If you liked the article, share the link on your network - this will be a big thank you for writing it:

When buying a new rotary hammer, it is not always worth paying much attention to cost. The first thing you should pay attention to is the presence of a mechanism for quickly changing the cartridge. By purchasing a rotary hammer with a replaceable chuck, you will relieve yourself of the question of choosing a drill. It is desirable that a replaceable cartridge was included and see if there are cartridges for this model on sale.

The smallest value, when choosing a hammer drill for the home, should be given to the power of the hammer drill, since the smallest is suitable for household needs. Even when choosing a puncher, you can not be on colorful stickers, various lights and other small bells and whistles that will never come in handy in work, since they increase the total cost of the tool, and at the same cost with a high-quality puncher, they will reduce the cost of vital organs.

Setting the operating mode
Mode switch

power tool.
Indication: Change the operating mode only when the
powered power tool! Otherwise, the electrical
The tro-tool may be damaged.

- Press and hold the unlock button

thread shock / rotation stop switch

inclusions power tool, press the

shutdown release the power tool

At low temperatures, the power tool reaches
chiseling / impact power only after a certain
time.
You can shorten this start-up time by running for
hitting the floor when inserted into a power tool.
chim tool.

To save energy, turn on the power
instrument only when you are going to work with
him.

Setting the speed and impact
The control electronics allow smoothly changing the frequency
layer of turns and bumps depending on the material.

Electronic stability control maintains the number
revolutions and shocks in the range between idle and
work under load at a given level.

The maximum chiseling power is achieved at
setting wheel "6"

revs impact power is low, due to technical
nichny execution.

- Select the speed with the adjusting wheel

according to the material.

Safety clutch
 If the working tool is jammed or seized,

The chuck drive is switched off. In order to prevent

always hold the power tool carefully
due to the forces arising from this, firmly and reliably
with both hands and take a stable position.

 When locking the power tool, turn off the

it and remove the working tool from the
my material. When turned on with a jammed
the instrument produces high reactive moments
us.

 Before handling any power tool,

Pull the plug out of the socket.

Changing the position of the chisel (Vario-Lock)
You can lock the chisel in 12 positions. Bla-
this way you can take an optimal
position.

- Insert the chisel into the chuck.
- Press and hold the unlock button

thread shock / rotation stop switch

"Changing the position of the chisel (Vario-lock)".

- Rotate the chuck to the desired chisel position.
- Press and hold the unlock button

thread urada / stop rotation switch

"Chiseling"... The cartridge is fixed in this position.

 Impact / rotation stop switch 4 must

for chiselling, always stand in the “Chisel” position.
nie ".

Maintenance and cleaning

 Before handling any power tool,

Pull the plug out of the socket.

 To ensure high-quality and safe working

you must maintain power tools at all times.
cop and ventilation slots clean.

 Replace damaged safety guard immediately.

cap. It is recommended to do this by forces
service workshop.

If you need to change the cord, contact the company
Bosch or an authorized service workshop for
Bosch power tools.

Service indicator 8
When working with worn-out carbon brushes,
the instrument turns off automatically. About wear
carbon brushes is indicated by the flashing of the service
announcer

8which starts at approx. 8 hours before auto

matic shutdown. For maintenance
the power tool must be handed over to
sleepy service. The addresses are given in the section "Service and Con-
advising on the use of products ".

If the power tool, despite careful operation,
production and testing, will fail, then repair
should be carried out by an authorized service
workshop for Bosch power tools.

If, when turning on the working tool
the cop does not rotate, then turn on the honey
speed while the working tool is
the instrument will not start rotating.

OBJ_BUCH-76-005.book Page 27 Friday, January 11, 2013 10:32 AM

The most widespread among professional builders in Russia are Bosch perforators, and among amateurs, household models Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26. Rock drills not only work well but are also easy to repair. You can easily find any broken part on them.

In the designs of the described perforators, the same principle is incorporated, to transmit the rotational moment from the rotor to the shaft of the barrel of the percussion unit with the simultaneous transmission of the translational impulse to the working tool.

Structurally, the perforators are made according to the same scheme, but individual units or parts have their own characteristics.

If you know the specific differences between the models of the described Bosch rotary hammers, then disassembly and repair with your own hands will not be difficult.

Along with the originals, there are a large number of counterfeit tools on the Russian market, including Bosch hammer drills.
The design features of the models and how to disassemble and repair them with your own hands are described below.

The principle of operation of perforators is the same, but the design features are different.

The main parts used in the listed models of Bosch rotary hammers are interchangeable. This applies to the mechanical and electrical assembly.

But there are knots and made that differ in the details used.

To repair a Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 rotary hammer, you need to know these differences. Knowledge of the design features of each rotary hammer facilitates the repair process, finding breakdowns and eliminating them.

The designs of Bosch rotary hammers are so simple that they allow you to perform simple repairs, practically with your own hands, and replace any part without contacting service services. You need to have the skills of an assembler, have basic knowledge of electrical engineering and understand the principle of the hammer drill.

When repairing a Bosch hammer drill, you will not do without an electrical and disassembly diagram for the tool of the model you are going to repair.

The wiring diagrams of Bosch rotary hammers 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 are almost the same. Although there are some minor differences.

But the mechanical blocks are equipped with parts that differ structurally from each other. The main differences are collected in two nodes: in the intermediate shaft and the shaft of the barrel of the impact block.

The greatest differences are presented in the design of the intermediate shaft, in the assembly of the "drunken bearing", in the mode switch. Non-fundamental features are present in the designs of the barrel of the percussion block, striker, striker.

Let's start with the Bosch 2-20 rotary hammer.

Repair of the Bosch 2-20 perforator is not possible without knowledge of the design of the tool being repaired.

The principle of operation of the Bosch 2-20 perforator is based on the transfer of torque from the rotor shaft, pos. 3, to the shaft of the impact unit, pos. 22, through the intermediate shaft, pos. 824, while simultaneously transmitting a longitudinal impulse to the working tool.

The rotor pos. 3 transmits the torque to the helical gear of the intermediate shaft pos. 824.

The helical gear is fixed on the intermediate shaft and transmits the torque to the shaft. A drunk bearing is fixed on the shaft, which receives the torque through the clutch. Due to its design, the drunk bearing transmits the translational motion to the barrel cylinder of the percussion mechanism.

The intermediate shaft of the Bosch 2-20 perforator consists of a rolling bearing assembly (drunk bearing), a clutch, a large helical gear, and a small spur gear.

Most often, breakdowns are manifested in the wear of the clutch splines, which leads to the loss of rotation of the drill chuck in the presence of a shock pulse.

It is corrected by replacing the clutch or restoring the teeth of the clutch parts.

It is best to start repairing a Bosch 2-24 perforator with an acquaintance with the diagram and design features of the tool being adjusted. The principle of operation of the Bosch 2-24 rotary hammer is similar to that of the Bosch 2-20 rotary hammer.

The torque is transmitted to the tool holder shaft, simultaneously with the transmission of the shock impulse. The hammer drill has three operating modes: drilling with impact, drilling without impact, impact.

The helical gear wheel of the rotor, poz.803 transmits the torque to the helical gear of the intermediate shaft, pos. 826.

The intermediate shaft of the Bosch 2-24 perforator consists of a rolling bearing assembly pos. 830, a clutch pos.823, shift parts pos. 44 Most often, the clutch fails. Teeth wear out in it. Clutch repair consists in correcting the tooth profile of the engagement in the clutch and on the intermediate shaft.

The barrel shaft of the striking unit is designed to transmit a rotational impulse with the simultaneous movement of the striker.

Rotation is transmitted from the spur gear of the intermediate shaft to the large spur gear pos. 22 of the barrel shaft pos. 821.

The reciprocating motion is transmitted through a drunk bearing, pos. 830, an impact piston, pos. 26, a firing pin, pos. 27, an impact bolt, pos. 28, to a drill fixed in a chuck, pos. 756.

The design is a hollow shaft on one side. Parts are installed on the shaft from both sides.

From the side of the chuck mounting, a spur gear, pos. 22, is installed on the shaft and fixed on the shaft by means of a roller, pos. 88, pressed against the shoulder of the shaft by a spring, pos. 80. The spring itself is fixed with a retaining ring, pos. 85.

In the cavity of the shaft of the barrel of the impact block is inserted: the assembled impact bolt pos. 28 and the impact piston. In the impact piston, pos. 26, is inserted the firing pin, pos. 27, with a new rubber ring, pos. 73, placed on it. All rubber products are lubricated with the recommended lubricant.

Due to the weakening of the spring force, falling out of the fixing roller, the gear can turn on the shaft. This is manifested in the disappearance of the angular momentum with the presence of a shock impulse.

When rubber products (O-rings) wear out, the perforator stops working in the "Chiseling" mode. This happens gradually. The impact force weakens as the rubber rings wear. The thing is that the movement is transmitted from the drunk bearing to the impact piston, pos. 26, in which the firing pin, pos. 27, creates air pressure and acts on the impact bolt, pos. 28.

If you apply a lot of force during the operation of the hammer drill, this can lead to the destruction of the impact bolt, jamming of the striker in the impact piston. Such malfunctions are eliminated only by complete replacement of the failed part. Learn more about troubleshooting a Bosch punch.

Repair of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer should begin with an acquaintance with the features in the design of the tool being adjusted. The principle of operation of the Bosch 2-24 rotary hammer is similar to that of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer.

Rotation is transmitted from the rotor shaft, through the intermediate shaft, to the shock barrel shaft. At the same time, a drunk bearing attached to the intermediate shaft transmits a reciprocating motion to the impact piston.

The hammer drill has three operating modes: drilling with impact, drilling without impact, impact.

The helical gear wheel of the rotor, pos. 803, transmits the torque to the helical gear of the intermediate shaft, pos. 823.

The intermediate shaft is similar to the shaft in the design of the Bosch 2-24 rotary hammer and is interchangeable between itself and the parts that make up the intermediate shaft of the Bosch 2-24, 2-26 rotary hammers. Instructions for disassembling the Bosch rotary hammer.

The barrel shaft of the percussion block is similar in design to the barrel shaft of the Bosch 2-24 rock drill. Failures are caused by malfunctions of the same parts as in the Bosch 2-24 rotary hammer.

Features of the shaft of the Bosch 2-26 perforator is that the driven large spur gear, pos. 22, is fixed on the shaft with three pins, pos. 37, in contrast to the fixing roller in the Bosch 2-26 puncher.

When disassembling the barrel shaft of the impact unit of the Bosch 2-26 perforator, pay attention to the method of fixing the gear. Before removing the gear, you must remove the three pins. The order of the correct assembly of the Bosch rotary hammer.

• Knowing the differences between the given models of Bosch rotary hammers will allow you to quickly disassemble the tool, replace defective parts. To do this, you do not need to contact the service department.

• Structurally, Bosch rotary hammers are so simple that they allow you to carry out repairs of almost any complexity.

• You are only required to have desire and basic knowledge in mechanics.

It happens that fake models of Bosch perforator come across in more detail about this.

Video: How to fix a hammer drill / 2-24 / How to change an impact bolt / Drunken bearing / Service / Repair Image - DIY bosch gbh 11 de punch repair

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Video (click to play).

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