In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the diold puncher from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
An electric rock drill is perhaps the most popular device that I use at construction sites, repairs, etc.
This tool is operated in rather harsh conditions - vibration, increased dustiness, power surges and others. All this, sooner or later, leads to the fact that the tool will fail and require repair.
An electric rock drill is a complex engineering product that consists of assemblies that ensure the movement of a chuck with a drill installed in it. Basically, a hammer drill is a device that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy.
Depending on the operating conditions, this device may have mechanical and electrical problems.
The hammer drill scheme is pretty close to that of an electric drill. One of the differences is that instead of an ordinary gear pair transmitting torque to the tool, a full-fledged gearbox is mounted in the hammer drill. It is designed to convert the torque generated by the electric motor into the reciprocating movement of the chuck.
Malfunctions requiring repair can occur in almost any part of the device. But before starting the repair, it is required to diagnose the breakdown and identify the reasons that led to its appearance.
It should be noted that detecting a breakdown is not difficult, but sometimes you have to disassemble the punch body for this.
Like any technical device, an electric rock drill has some weak points in its design. It is they who are the cause of breakdowns that require repair. It is not uncommon for a perforator to fail due to the fault of a worker who operates it at extreme modes and in violation of operating rules.
Video (click to play).
It must be understood that the main faults occur in the electrical or mechanical part. In the mechanical part, the following problems most often occur:
the device does not perform its main functions - drilling and drilling;
jamming of the drill in the chuck;
the nozzle is not installed in the chuck;
extraneous noise during the operation of the device.
In an electrician, the following defects are most often manifested:
the engine does not work;
excessive sparking of brushes;
the appearance of burning or the smell of burnt insulation.
The beginning of the repair begins with cleaning the body of the device. This is necessary at least to prevent dirt from getting into the disassembled perforator.
When repairing an electric rock drill, there is often a need to disassemble it. But before you start it, you need to make sure once again that the problems have arisen precisely in the mechanical part of the device. We will analyze in detail what problems are encountered and how they can be eliminated
Untimely maintenance, poorly performed repairs, operation of the hammer drill in extreme modes can lead to the fact that any part that is part of this mechanism can fail. To identify defects in the gearbox, it is necessary to disassemble it, rinse the parts and then carry out a thorough inspection.
Revealed damaged parts must be replaced with new ones. Then assemble the gearbox, of course, you need to put grease into it. By the way, the brand of lubricant must be indicated in the operating manual.
If the nozzle does not enter the working position, then most likely the reason lies in the cartridge. To eliminate this defect, there is no need to disassemble the tool.As a rule, interference with the installation of the nozzle consists in the fact that any debris has got into the chuck.
To identify malfunctions in the mode switching device, the punch will still have to be disassembled. In principle, a defect can be identified by a careful examination of the switching mechanism.
Mode switch repair
In principle, the main components are listed, in which breakdowns most often occur and require repair. Meanwhile, there are several more types of defects that can arise for various reasons. For example, there is no impact hammer mode. That is, the drill rotates together with the chuck, but does not have an impact on the working surface. The most common cause, in this case, is a floating bearing. Damage to the steel striker may be another cause of this malfunction. In both cases, replacement of the defective part is required.
It is not uncommon for the engine to run when the tool is turned on, but the chuck does not rotate. This happens most often because the gearbox is stuck. By the way, it is unacceptable to keep the hammer turned on for a long time; it is unacceptable when the chuck is inoperative, the motor winding may burn out. The hammer drill will have to be disassembled and defects in the gearbox removed. They can be caused either by damage to the gears or by debris falling into it.
VIDEO Another defect is that the chuck cannot fix the drill. This problem can arise with a tool that has been in use for a long time. The cause of this problem lies in the wear of the retainer housing mount.
Malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill can also cause serious problems. By the way, a failure in work can be caused by a trivial lack of voltage in the outlet.
By the way, troubleshooting should start with less. That is, it is necessary to check the presence of power in the electrical network, the integrity of the wire and outlet.
By and large, if the instrument does not show any signs of life, it is likely that the electrical part of the instrument is out of order. The main electrical defects include the following:
Any electrical device can be connected for testing. If there is voltage in the network, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the cable.
To identify this defect, they inspect it, then, using a tester, ring it. To eliminate a cable break, you can either solder it or twist it. But it's best to replace it.
The cause of this defect may be elementary oxidation of the contacts in the button. To test this assumption, it is necessary to dismantle the rear casing cover. If there are no visible signs of oxidation, it is advisable to use a tester. To correct this malfunction, you can clean the contacts, but it is better to replace the power button.
With prolonged and intensive use of the perforator, the brushes wear out, through which electric current flows to the motor. With a lot of wear, they begin to spark and a burning smell appears. The brush must be at least 8 mm long.
VIDEO
Upon reaching this and smaller size, they are replaced. The replacement procedure is quite simple and anyone who is not even familiar with the basics of electrical engineering can handle it.
If this problem is identified, it is advisable to replace the entire assembly. But, in fairness, it should be noted that this defect is not common.
This is probably the worst defect that can occur with an electric tool. The user should understand that it is better not to repair the engine on his own. For this, there are specialized workshops equipped with all the necessary repair and diagnostic equipment.
When the engine is running, a certain layer of carbon deposits forms on the manifold. You can remove it yourself and then try to enable it. If this operation does not help, then it is necessary to ring the armature and stator.There are certain requirements for the resistance in the windings.
Repair of these units is permissible only in an electrical workshop. It is permissible to do this work at home, but only if you have special equipment and certain knowledge about the operation of the electric motor. This operation, performed at home, will significantly reduce the cost of repairing the hammer drill as a whole.
Important! Repair of the device is carried out with the tool disconnected from the electrical network.
To repair and restore the tool's functionality, you will need some keys, both ordinary open-end and hexagons, screwdrivers with different slots. A puller will be required to remove the bearings.
Disassembly and assembly of the perforator must be carried out using the kinematic and electrical circuits of the perforator.
To diagnose a faulty hammer drill, most often there is no need to use special equipment and tools, with the exception of a tester and a device for rewinding the motor.
VIDEO
You can establish the cause of the breakdown using an ordinary inspection.
And in order to identify problems in the mechanism of the tool, it is desirable to know and understand its structure and principle of operation.
To ensure long-term and efficient operation of an electric rock drill, it is enough to follow a few simple rules. In particular:
When working, it is impractical to put strong pressure on the tool, at least there is no need for this, and moreover, with excessive pressure, the tool breaks down faster.
The operation of the electric hammer drill in idle mode is inadmissible.
When working with porous materials, it makes sense to turn off the impact mechanism. When working with particularly hard materials, it is advisable to use a lubricant.
When working, especially for a long time, it is necessary to monitor the heating of the housing, especially in the place where the gearbox is installed. If there is noticeable heating, it is necessary to stop the work and wait until it cools down. Cooling water must not be used, its use may damage the gearbox parts.
Work with the tool should be carried out in the following mode - at least 10 minutes break after half an hour of work.
Do-it-yourself punch repair can be done only partially. But, for example, such a unit as an electric motor is still better done in a special workshop.
It is best to make repairs in the warranty workshop of the company from which it was purchased.
To lubricate the hammer drill units, use only those materials recommended by the manufacturer.
The drum rock drill differs from the traditional one in that the electric motor is located vertically and it cannot work in the drilling mode.
Drum perforator SDS-plus Intertool DT-0182
Therefore, due to the design features, in order to get to certain nodes, additional operations will have to be performed, in particular, to inspect the electric motor, it is necessary to remove the lower part of the casing or the cover. And to replace the brushes, special technological holes are provided in the body.
To replace this button, you will have to disassemble the case, disconnect it and install a new one in its regular place.
To replace the brushes, it is necessary to provide access to the brush assembly. To replace, it is necessary to release the brushes from the lock, install new ones in their place.
If extraneous sounds are heard during the operation of the perforator, then there is a high probability that the bearing has reached a certain degree of wear. That is, it needs to be replaced.
For this, it is necessary to complete or partially disassemble the case and gain access to the unit in which it is installed. It may require a puller to remove it. By the way, some bearings can be secured with circlips.
To replace a cartridge that has exhausted its resource, first of all, it is necessary to take into account which company produced this product.The thing is that the schemes for fixing the cartridges from different manufacturers have their own characteristics.
Replacing the chuck on the hammer drill
For example, to dismantle a chuck in a Bosch hammer drill, you need to do the following manipulations - loosen the retaining ring, pull out the chuck and install a new one in its place.
In some models of this tool, the impact is provided by a drunken bearing. With intensive use, it can undergo destruction.
VIDEO
To repair it, you need a flat-head screwdriver. After disassembling the housing, the bearing must be removed from the housing, disassembled, replaced with worn parts and installed in place.
To repair the percussion mechanism of the punch, it is necessary to remove the raster sleeve; for this, it is necessary to release the spring and the retaining ring. After that, the impact bolt is replaced with a new one, or sent for restoration.
VIDEO
The sleeve fails quite rarely. To replace it, the old one must be removed from the aluminum housing and a new one must be installed instead.
the smell of burning;
the appearance of unnatural additional sounds;
unstable operation or decreased performance of the hammer drill.
If at least one of the above points has arisen, you should stop work immediately - your hammer drill needs repair. But before you start troubleshooting the punch yourself, you need to figure out its internal structure.
VIDEO
With the engine mounted horizontally.
With a vertical motor.
In all other respects, all the details of the hammer drill are basically the same.
The hammer drill consists of two parts: electrical and mechanical.
Engine control device.
Start and stop button.
Interference suppression elements (capacitor, chokes);
Power cord.
In some models, the switch is combined with a control device.
Some models can be equipped with additional parts:
mode switch;
a vacuum cleaner;
depth limit;
other.
VIDEO
Before proceeding with the repair, the unit must be disassembled. Each model has its own nuances of disassembly. But in most cases, any model consists of two parts : front and rear halves, screwed together. Before unscrewing them, you need to remove the cartridge. On some models, the cartridge can be left on.
VIDEO
Malfunctions can also be of two types: associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill and mechanical failures.
This could be due to a broken wire.Very often the cord breaks near the handle itself.
Replace the entire cable or shorten part of it at the point where the break occurred. If the rupture occurs somewhere in the middle, strip it of insulation, connect the parts, carefully insulate the cord.
Poor contact of the elements of the trigger.
Such damage can occur due to oxidation or burnout of the contacts.
Clean the elements or replace them with new ones.
Damage to the extinguishing mechanism.
From a heavy load, parts of this mechanism simply burn out.
can connect the motor directly , but it should be borne in mind that with this method of troubleshooting, the wear of the motor increases several times. It is best used only in extreme cases.
Burnout of UUD. There are no options - you need to change the mechanism.
Broken winding. Such a breakdown is unlikely to be fixed by yourself. Need to rewind.
Sparks can be caused by the brushes not fitting snugly against the armature. Such the malfunction occurs for two reasons : Brush wear or moisture penetration into the brush body is damp.
Insert new brushes or dry them and clean them with a fine-grained sandpaper.
VIDEO
This may also indicate oxidation of the armature due to moisture ingress.
Clean the anchor. Important do this procedure carefully so as not to damage the winding. An eraser or cotton swab moistened with rubbing alcohol is best for this.
Visually inspect all elements. If the problem is in the brushes, replace it, in case of a motor jam, eliminate the malfunction (below there is a description for mechanical damage).
With mechanical damage it is a little more difficult: the hammer drill consists of many parts, so it may not be possible to immediately establish the cause of the breakdown. The main thing, carefully visually inspect all the details , and after identifying a breakdown, carefully eliminate it. Here are the main possible damages that you can fix yourself.
The device turns on, but does not hammer.
Switch. Most devices are equipped with mode switches. This mechanism is susceptible to breakdowns. If the hammer drill stops hammering, most likely the reason is the worn out fingers of the switch. During work they are in constant contact with rotating parts and this leads to wear and tear.
The branch of the retainer, which holds it in the gearbox housing, has broken, which contributes to spontaneous switching of modes. You don't have to change the retainer, if you are not confused by this problem, the punch will still work.
Replace switch. But if there is no suitable switch, and the work cannot be stopped, then you can turn the worn part 180 degrees and you can continue working.
VIDEO
Change the lubricant twice a year.
Every six months a routine inspection of the brushes.
Thorough cleaning every time after use.
Lubricate the back of the drill or chisel before work to reduce the load on the firing pin.
If the hammer drill stops working normally or there is a breakdown, read the instructions and inspect it carefully. Before you start repairing yourself, really assess your capabilities. If you are sure, try to fix it with your own hands, otherwise, if in doubt, it is better to contact a specialist. And remember that already repaired mechanisms are not subject to warranty obligations and they are reluctantly taken by service centers for repairs.
VIDEO
Anyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult its operating conditions are.That is why do-it-yourself punch repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything regarding the repair of this tool.
Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, correct use of the tool will save you from serious damage, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, the device was repaired on time. At the same time, any small failure should already become a cause for concern and preparation for repair.
So, such "beacons" can be:
Unstable work of the punch in the working mode;
The appearance of strange sounds when turning on the punch;
The smell of burning;
The hammer drill does not hammer, although there is no apparent reason for this.
As soon as something like this happens to your equipment, it means it's time to repair. Like any such work, it requires care, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowledge of how to cope with it. And your very first step in repairing is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything down to the nuances - how, what and why!
VIDEO
Just imagine that your tool suddenly stops working or you urgently need to replace any defective part. The easiest way is to take the hammer drill to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for a while. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because there will be no need to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.
Instructions for parsing the tool:
We start work, starting from the upper unit: first, the rubber tip is removed, then the washer, the spring, the ball finishes working.
After you have removed the ball, we unscrew the screws that hold the case, remove the cover on the handle, if available, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.
We remove the brush holder.
The next step is to separate the gearbox and housing until a gap forms. It is through it that we will retrieve the switch.
After that, the punch body is placed vertically, with the help of a vise, it is fixed, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.
Whatever breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.
VIDEO
You should be as prepared as possible to repair a device such as a hammer drill, which will keep financial and labor costs to a minimum. It's not bad if you are more or less familiar with the construction of a punch, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. Most often, the repair of a perforator is reduced to a banal replacement of the "flying" elements, which include:
Anchor;
Brushes;
Gears;
Starters;
Bearings;
Network cables;
Switches.
It is worth noting that the easiest way to repair light tools, given the fact that such a hammer drill is perfect for construction work at home. ... But breakdowns of more serious equipment are much more difficult, and only professional craftsmen can handle them. In any case, no matter what class of tool you are interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner - this device will save you time for cleaning, and also make your work safer, as it reduces the amount of dust.
Another problem is the breakdown of the windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise from dust. Repair consists in thorough cleaning and replacement of those parts that cannot be repaired. However, "prevention" is a more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, soak it with varnish or grease.By the way, the choice of a lubricant must be carefully considered. So, there are several rules. First, it is better to purchase a solution from the same manufacturer (Bosch, Makita, Enkor ), as the perforator itself, in this case, in terms of its composition, oil or varnish will be ideal. If such a composition is not at hand, a diesel engine oil is perfect for you.
The second most popular cause of breakage is brush wear, no matter how much your tool costs - even the most expensive models are prone to this problem. It is very easy to replace them: we disassemble the perforator according to the above described scheme, find worn brushes and put new ones in their place. You just need to correctly determine which of them is best used: coal, graphite or carbon-graphite. So, graphite ones have a long service life, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Carbon elements have a short life, but they have high-quality contact with other parts of the hammer drill. The purchase of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.
There are also problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model is equipped with switching modes, and they often fail, especially on cheap devices. The algorithm of work is the same - we disassemble the puncher, find the broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to purchase items suitable for this model. A similar problem often "haunts" cartridges that are exposed to maximum stress. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt by rinsing the elements with grease. But if the cartridge is still broken, we will have nothing to do but change it.
VIDEO
Now you know how to fix a hammer drill and see that most of the breakdowns come down to simple cleaning or replacing defective parts. But if you disassembled the tool, and there are no apparent reasons, it is better to take the device to a service center - specialists will quickly find the cause and eliminate it.
The principle of operation of the Bosch 2-26 hammer drill is no different from the famous brands of hammer drills.
But different firms that produce rock drills have their own design features.
Bosch rotary hammers are considered the best in the power tool segment. But nothing is eternal.
If your Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 rotary hammer stops working, then you can restore it yourself. You need to have basic locksmith skills and a little knowledge of electrical engineering.
When repairing power tools, including repairing Bosch rotary hammers, strictly follow the safety precautions when working with electrical appliances.
To facilitate the repair of the Bosch rotary hammer, its disassembly and assembly, study the tool assembly diagram:
Any disassembly of the bosch 2-26 perforator begins after inspection, test switching and identifying the causes of the device malfunction.
Video disassembly of the Bosch rotary hammer 2-26
VIDEO
Since the order of disassembly of drills Bosch 2-20; 2-24; 2-26 is almost the same, consider the sequence of disassembly using the example of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer.
Dismantling the Bosch GBH 2-26 dre rotary hammer begins with the disassembly of the quick-release chuck.
Two types of chuck are most commonly used in Bosch rock drills: SDS-plus chucks and SDS-max chucks. The difference between them is in the principle of clamping the tail of the working organ.
The device of the Bosch hammer drill chuck differs in the design of the tool landing rods, depending on the SDS-plus or SDS-max model. In addition to the listed types of cartridges, there are SDS-top, SDS-quick cartridges.
The procedure for disassembling the cartridge of the Bosch 2-26 perforator is simple:
remove the rubber tip, pos. 34;
take out the retaining ring, pos. 87;
remove the steel washer pos. 833;
remove the conical spring, pos. 833;
carefully, so as not to lose it, using a magnet, remove the barrel balls pos. 89.
Inspect all parts of the cartridge carefully.
SDS-plus chucks have been specially developed for drilling tools. The diameter of the tool shanks is 10 mm, the length of the working tool is in the range of 110 ... 1000 mm. The diameter of the drills is in the range of 4 ... 26 mm.
Putting the puncher on its side, remove the mode switch pos. 832.
First, turn the switch to the “Drilling” position, press the screwdriver all the way into the end face of the switch button (it is red) and turn the switch counterclockwise through an angle of 70º.
While wiggling the switch handle, pull the switch handle out of the housing.
Putting the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer vertically on the handle, unscrew the four screws, pos. 90, holding the housing cover of the mechanical assembly.
Press down on the end of the percussion shaft and remove the cover. Black plastic cover.
Now you need to remove the barrel poz.821 and the intermediate shaft poz.826. They are not fixed by anything.
Then, using a screwdriver, you need to remove the bracket pos. 48 of the rolling bearing pos. 830. By the way, in a simple way it is called "drunken bearing". Sequentially removed: sleeve poz.26 and "drunken bearing".
disassembly of the Bosch perforator barrel assembly begins from the side of the cavity, taking out the cylinder poz.26 with the drummer poz.27;
the firing pin assembly must be removed from the cavity;
from the side of the chuck shaft, remove the retaining ring, pos. 85, the steel ring, pos. 38, and one more retaining ring, pos. 85;
remove the spur gear, pos. 22.
A striker, pos. 27, is inserted inside the cylinder, from which it is necessary to remove the rubber ring, pos. 73. For any disassembly, rubber parts must be replaced without fail.
At the opposite end of the cylinder, a hinge, pos. 29, and two flat washers, pos. 41, are inserted.
The intermediate shaft is disassembled by removing the shaft, pos. 24, and by pulling the "drunk bearing" out of the housing, pos. 77.
Bearings are removed with pullers or manually using a tool.
Bosch rotary hammers are very reliable. But there are malfunctions that practically do not occur in practice. Below is one of them.
If the hammer drill has stopped hammering, but still allows drilling, the most likely cause may be the destruction of the "drunken bearing". This malfunction is not common and it is not easy to find it.
You don't have to go to a repair shop to fix it. Any person who is more or less versed in mechanics will eliminate such a malfunction.
First you need to disassemble the Bosch hammer drill to the intermediate shaft. Disassembly procedure is shown above.
Removing the intermediate shaft, you get to the "drunk bearing". Broken cage, scattered balls, cage pieces indicate the destruction of the rolling bearing.
Take out the bearing, remove the dirt, all parts of the destroyed mechanism.
You buy a new "drunk bearing", and after lubricating all the parts with new grease, replace and reassemble in the reverse order of the disassembly steps.
Dismantling the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer, its electrical part, begins by removing the back cover on the handle of the puncher by unscrewing three screws.
The next step is to remove the reverse switch.
Turn it to neutral and lift it towards you. The reverse switch is removed.
To remove the stator cover, it is necessary to hold the mechanical unit in your right hand, and to the left stator housing, pull them in different directions, shaking them.
To separate the rotor from the mechanical unit, it is enough to drag these parts in different directions.The rotor is secured to the mechanical assembly by a small helical gear that is inserted into contact with the large helical gear of the mechanical assembly.
The rotor has been released and you can carefully inspect the condition of the collector and bearings.
To remove the stator, it is enough to remove the protective plastic protective casing, and knock with a wooden blank or mallet on the end of the housing, into which the stator is inserted. Before doing this, do not forget to unscrew the two screws holding the stator in the housing.
The stator is removed, the rotor is taken out, you can proceed to their inspection and defect detection of all parts that make up the electrical part of the Bosch rotary hammer.
When inspecting the disassembled Bosch 2-26 hammer drill, pay special attention to the condition of the carbon brushes, the bloom on the brush holders and the reliability of their attachment, the integrity of the reverse switch contacts, and the state of the wire at the point of entry into the hammer drill.
The length of the brushes should not be shorter than 8 mm. There should be no traces of sparking and carbon dust from the brushes on the brush holders; there should be no burnouts or damage to the contacts on the contacts of the reverse switch of the Bosch 2-26 perforator.
Video (click to play).
