Do-it-yourself Makita 2455 perforator repair scheme

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Makita 2455 perforator diagram from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Hammer drills are percussion drilling devices designed for drilling and chiselling holes in extra strong materials.
The hammer drill implements two ideas: the working tool rotates and simultaneously moves in the longitudinal direction, creating a shock impulse.

Rock drills always work under extreme conditions.
The duration of the hammer drill depends not only on the correct operating conditions, but also on the reliability of the parts included in the product.
But no matter how hard you try, over time, punches start to fail.

To properly repair a punch, you need to familiarize yourself with its device.

Do-it-yourself repair of the Makita 2470 and 2450 perforator can be done by a person who has the skills of a locksmith and knows the basics of electrical engineering.
Remember! Observe safety regulations and unplug the punch from the mains when disassembling.

Hammer drills Makita 2450 and 2470 are assembled in almost the same scheme and from the same parts. Repairing them is no different.
For the convenience of repair, below is an assembly diagram and a catalog of parts for Makita perforators.

The scheme of the Makita 2450 and 2470 puncher consists of a mechanical and an electrical part.

Image - Do-it-yourself repair of the Makita 2455 perforator scheme

The mechanical part provides the transmission of torque to the drill bit, while simultaneously creating a translational movement that creates a shock.
The mechanical part consists of a rotation drive and an impact mechanism.

The electrical circuit of the Makita perforator provides the conversion of electrical energy into kinetic energy through the rotation of the rotor. The electrical part includes an electric motor, a power button with a speed controller, a reverse switch, and connecting wires.

Video (click to play).

The main malfunctions of the punch makita
Rotary hammer malfunctions are divided into electrical and mechanical.

In this article, we will consider all the malfunctions of the electrical part of the Makita 2470 and 2450 rock drills and how to fix them:

Electrical malfunctions of Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 perforators
Electrical faults are manifested in the fact that when the rotary hammer is connected to the mains voltage, the tool does not turn on.
The scheme for connecting the Makita puncher to the network is simple.

The electrical diagram of the Makita 2450 perforator is a serial connection of the electric motor, start button and wires. The scheme of the Makita 2470 hammer drill is similar.

Through the connecting cord, pos. 72, the supply voltage of 220 V is supplied through the switch, pos. 68, and the electric brushes through the brush holder, pos. 66, to the rotor lamellas of the electric motor, pos. 54, and through the contacts of the reverse switch, pos. 60, to the stator winding, pos. 59.
The most common malfunction is the lack of contacts in the connections.

Determination of the integrity of the electrical part of the Makita perforator. In order to repair the Makita 2450 or Makita 2470 hammer drill with your own hands, you need to arm yourself with devices and tools. Any tester, screwdriver set, wrenches, hammer, wooden guide will do. It is good to have a screwdriver with a built-in phase indicator.

You need to take a tester, connect to the ends of the punch plug and press the punch switch. If the tester shows any resistance, then the power circuit of the puncher is intact.

If the tester shows infinity, then the continuity of the circuit is broken and you need to remove the back cover to check the connecting cable and electric brushes of the hammer drill.

The back cover (usually black) of the punch is easy to remove, you just need to unscrew three screws with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Remove the cover and use a screwdriver to disconnect the ends of the wires from the electric brushes.
Using a tester or a home-made device, popularly called "arkashka", determine the integrity of the lead wires and the correct operation of the switch.

A few words about a simple control device called "arkashka". The device consists of an LED or a light bulb from a flashlight, a penlight battery and two pieces of wire. The entire electrical circuit of the control device is a series-connected parts. Connect the battery to one end of the LED or light bulb, and connect the wires to the free ends of the LED and battery. You will have a universal device for checking the continuity of electrical circuits.

Typical malfunctions of the Makita 2450 and 2470 perforator
Frequent faults in the electrical part of the Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 rotary hammer:

break of the supply cable at the point of entry into the perforator;
failure of the button of the TG813TLB-1 switch, art. 650508-0, pos. 68 .;
wear of electric carbon brushes SV-419, art.191962-4, pos.65;
wear of the reverse switch contacts;
wear of the rotor bearings: bearing 609LLU, art.210060-6, item 51; bearing 607LLU, item 211021-9, item 56;
short circuit of the rotor 220-240 V, art.515668-8, pos. 54;
failure of the stator winding 220-240 V for HR2450, item 633488-5, item 59.

The TG813TLB-1 switch, art.650508-0 is used as a start button; pos. 68.

Replacement of brushes is carried out when they are completely abraded or poor contact. This malfunction is detected by strong heating of the points of the places where the electric brushes are installed.

Failure to turn on the hammer drill may be caused by abrasion of the contacts on the reverse switch.
Eliminating such a malfunction is very simple.

To repair the reverse switch, the rear cover must be disconnected. Disconnect the wires carefully from the button. Inspect the switch carefully.

Further disassembly consists in removing the brush holder, having previously released the brushes themselves.
After removing the brush holder, you will reach the contacts of the reverse switch.
Determine its condition, replace contacts if necessary.

Another common electrical fault is poor contact between the stator and the lower contacts of the reversing switch.

To remove the stator, the gearbox housing (black) must be disconnected from the stator housing (green).

Remember! In the mechanical part of the rotor, the bearing is pressed by a special ring. When disassembling, do not lose it.

The stator is located in the green housing. Looking into the middle, you will see two self-tapping screws 4 × 60, ref. 266334-3, item 57, securing the stator to the body. Unscrew them, remove the plastic stator protection for HR2450, art.419201-3, pos. 58, free the stator.
When you take out the stator, you will see the contacts on the stator and the reversing switch panel.

Clean the contacts thoroughly with sandpaper, treat with solvent or alcohol.
Before assembly, bend the contacts so that they fit snugly into each other. Lubricate the contacts with a thin layer of petroleum jelly.

The electrical part of the hammer drill is assembled in the reverse order.

A professional construction tool always works in extreme conditions, therefore, both the mechanical and electrical parts of the hammer drill have an increased working life.

As practice shows, a tool from brands such as Makita, Bosch or Interskol rarely fails during the warranty period, but sooner or later everything breaks down.

One of the most vulnerable spots of any hammer drill is considered the power button with a speed control and a reverse switch.

There are three types of button breakage:

Mechanical breakdown. As a rule, it occurs when the tool falls from a height and other impacts on the body of the hammer drill. Since the plastic is practically non-sticky, the only option for a reliable repair would be a complete replacement of the button;
Contacts on the button burned out. In this case, a replacement is also indispensable;
Carbon deposits have formed on the contacts of the start button. If the plastic case of the trigger itself is not damaged, cleaning the contacts will help solve the problem.

How to check punch start button?

To do this, you can use an electrical multimeter (tester): you need to connect to the ends of the puncher plug and press the start button.

If the multimeter shows resistance, then the power tool circuit is intact. The lack of resistance indicates a violation of the continuity of the circuit.

In this case, you need to understand that the problem may not only be in the switch button. You should also check the electrical cable for kinks, wear on the carbon brushes and reversing contacts.

This is the only way to be sure that the reason lies precisely in the switch.

Most MAKITA rock drills (HR2020, 2432, 2440, 2440F, 2450, 2455, 2475 and 2641) use a typical TG813TLB-1 switch.

To revise and / or replace it, you need to prepare the following tools:

Phillips screwdriver
awl or knitting needle.

The procedure for repairing / replacing the power button on the Makita 2450 perforator is as follows:

We disassemble the electrical part of the tool. To do this, unscrew the three mounting screws on the back of the handle with a Phillips screwdriver and remove the plastic cover.
Next, you need to fold the brushes and remove the TG813TLB-1 switch itself.
All wires must be removed to disconnect the switch. The mains wires (brown and blue) are fastened with a screw clamp and there are no problems with them - in order to flip two wires, it is enough to loosen two screws. The rest of the wires are attached to self-clamping connectors, and to remove the wire you need a knitting needle or an awl, which are inserted into a special hole and open the clip. In the same way, all wires are sequentially removed. To carry out repairs, it will not be superfluous to have at hand the connection diagram for the punch button, therefore we strongly recommend that you sketch a conditional diagram before removing the wires or take photographs on a smartphone so that there are no questions when connecting a new button.
Connecting a new button. The wires are simply inserted into the automatic clamps until they stop, the power wires are fixed with screws.
Next, you need to install the button in the bore hole, return the brushes to their place, install and secure the back cover of the handle with three screws.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Often, even professional equipment quickly fails. This is due to the operation of the tool with a significant overload of the electric motor. Overheating of the power unit must not be allowed, technological pauses must be made periodically. Sometimes serious damage to the hammer drill is the result of careless handling of the tool during operation or during storage.After each use, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the rotary hammer from dust. Use a soft cloth or tissue to wipe not only the body of the power tool, but also the ventilation slots.It is unacceptable to use the rotary hammer outdoors during rain and snow.The carbon brushes should be regularly inspected, which are a critical part of the electrical circuit - they conduct current to the collector and gradually wear out during operation and require replacement.You should not buy non-original components of dubious quality, which can lead to more significant breakdowns.Today, developers offer buyers hundreds of different apartments and houses. Often, residents want to slightly change their parameters, making housing more convenient and comfortable.Makita perforators will allow you to carry out repair work efficiently and quickly. Prefabricated parts and good build quality will increase the lifespan and help avoid interruptions during the restoration process. The article will give an idea of the main advantages of the products of this manufacturer.Makita puncher device

Among users, the Makita puncher has established itself as a tool with the greatest functionality. It is durable and does not require special skills to use, it is lightweight and convenient during operation.

The design includes a special protective system designed to limit the spread of dust. With timely cleaning, the tool will work efficiently throughout its entire service life.

Makita has found wide application among people who prefer to repair themselves. In operation, the tool is simple, the financial costs for maintenance are minimal, and it is inexpensive.

The manufacturer provides the following specifications:

Total weight - 2.04 kg
The SDS system allows you to mount the drills
Can be hammered and drilled
The system provides three modes of operation
The greatest number of beats per minute - 4500
Translational force of motion - 2.7 joules
The power of the mains supply is 780 watts.

Often the equipment fails, and the drill flies out of the hammer drill. This happens for various reasons. Many users of Makita punchers are faced with the fact that their device does not hit, but drills at the same time. You can fix the breakage yourself. The most common causes of malfunctions are listed below:

Intermediate shaft wear
Deformation of the clamping units
Broken connecting rod system
Lack of lubrication for correct operation
Breakage of shock components

Diagnostic technology and troubleshooting are identical to other devices. First you need to disassemble the tool by removing the case, and then remove the obsolete grease and contamination.

It is recommended to replace the nodes that have stopped working. After that, all the components of the mechanism are set to their original position.

For correct operation, it is recommended to carefully study each point of the repair. To restore the functionality of the 2010 cartridge, the mode switch and the housing, the following steps should be taken:

Remove cartridge
Remove switch
Eliminate defects in the inner part of the case
Apply grease and replace worn parts

When disassembling the gearbox, it is recommended to adhere to the following instructions:

Install the rock drill on a hard surface by lifting its barrel up
Pull out the shell with progressive movements, pressing the tool to the table. This position will prevent accidental displacement of the composite elements.

After the repair has been made, all the removed parts should be returned to their original position. It is recommended to apply a fresh coat of grease to all required parts.

Before assembling, the body is cleaned with kerosene or gasoline. The cleaned casing is returned to its place. The mode switch should not be in it.

The Makita-2450 hammer drill system consists of many complementary units and a list of spare parts. Among the most significant elements, the features of which should be taken into account during repair work, are the following:

Ring locking device. It is designed to hold the ball element holding the drill. Washer and spring guides it
Retaining ring. It is necessary for correct removal of the cartridge cover.
Four screws connect the gearbox to the motor, eliminating vibration. The circuit has a large number of rubber components. They are often the cause of a malfunction.

The description of the mentioned units will be enough for a quality repair.

Makita punchers are rightfully one of the best on the modern market. The 2470 is slightly improved, but that doesn't make the units durable.Timely repairs will maximize the period of correct operation. This article helps to understand the peculiarities of the work of the main nodes. These materials are sufficient to eliminate the most common types of malfunctions.

A hammer drill is a percussion drilling tool that simultaneously performs the function of percussion and drilling equipment when working with particularly durable materials.

The device uses two ideas at the same time: the tool rotates and moves in the longitudinal direction, transmitting the impact impulse to a hard surface.

Rock drills always work in an extreme environment with a high degree of dust.

The duration of trouble-free operation is influenced not only by the operating conditions, but also by the quality of the components included in the tool.

Perforators Makita 2450, 2470 are reliable high quality tools. But even the most reliable tool requires proper care and timely maintenance.

To perform maintenance on Makita 2450, 2470 hammer drills, it is imperative that you familiarize yourself with the internal content of the tools that make up the assemblies. This instruction will help you find out the weak points of the Makit puncher.

To repair the Makita 2450, 2470 hammer drill with your own hands, a person who has locksmith skills and knowledge of electrical engineering is allowed.

Remember! When repairing a rotary hammer, you must follow the safety rules when working with electrical appliances.

Hammer drills Makita 2450 and 2470 are assembled practically according to the same scheme and, practically, from the same, interchangeable parts. Repairing them is no different.

General view of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer

For the convenience of repair, below is an assembly diagram and a catalog of parts for Makita perforators.

Makita 2450 hammer assembly diagram

The Makita hammer drill conventionally consists of electrical and mechanical parts. Moreover, in a black plastic case, there is a mechanical unit of the perforator, and under the green plastic case, the electrical part of the perforator is hidden.

The mechanical unit is designed to transmit the rotational moment of the shaft to the tool, creating not only torque and translational shock impulse.

The task of the mechanical unit is to transfer rotation from the rotor to the tool, while providing the tool with longitudinal movement.

Disassembly of the rock drill begins with the removal of the quick-release chuck.

Quick Release Chuck Parts

Having disassembled the chuck, unscrew the four screws, pos. 10, securing the gear housing cover, pos. 14, of the mechanical block and the puncher body, and, pressing on the end of the puncher shaft, remove the black plastic cover.

Remove the cover of the mechanical block

To remove the mechanical block from the green stator housing:

1. Unscrew the three screws, pos. 70,75,76, holding the cover, pos. 69, in the handle of the perforator;

2. Remove the cover;

3. Having released the springs of the brush holders pos.63.66, take out the carbon brushes pos.65.

The mechanical block can now be pulled out of the stator housing.

Having released the mechanical block, it is necessary to disconnect the rotor from it. Rotor pos. is fixed in the mechanical block due to the friction of the gear teeth and is pulled out by staggering and disengaging at the same time.

The mechanical assembly is assembled on the inner case, pos. 49. To remove the intermediate shaft, it is necessary to unscrew two bolts pos. 43 at the base of the housing. The intermediate shaft is also fixed with the mode selector lever.

Two words about the mode switch

The Makita 2450, 2470 hammer drills have a lever that provides the tool with three operating modes. The hammer drill can simply drill, just chisel, and chisel with simultaneous drilling. The switch lever is put on the axis of the inner case and is fixed with a compression spring, pos. 85, a washer, pos. 87, and a retaining ring, pos. 86.

It's time to remove the intermediate shaft.

To disassemble the intermediate shaft, use the diagram attached to this manual.

Photo of the intermediate shaft diagram showing the order of disassembly

Remove from the shaft pos. 40 in order:

a). bearing pos. 46 and ring pos. 47;
b). spur gear pos. 42;
v). rolling bearing pos. 41;

And on the other side of the shaft, remove:

G). flat washer 12 pos. 35;
e). bearing 606 pos. 36;
e). retaining ring S-7 pos. 37;
g). compression spring 7 pos. 38;
h). clutch, pos. 39.

To disassemble the percussion shaft, pull it out of the inner housing.

From the shaft it is necessary to pull out the cylinder, pos. 32, inserted into the inner cavity of the shaft.

The cylinder is very easy to disassemble:

1. From it you need to get the drummer pos.30;

2. Knock out the hinge of the piston poz.34;

3. Remove two flat washers poz.33,35.

To disassemble the shaft itself, pos. 21 of the percussion mechanism, it is necessary to remove from the side of the cartridge installation shaft:

- ring spring 28 pos.16;
- washer 30 pos. 17;
- compression spring 31 pos. 18;
- spur gear 51 pos. 19;
- steel ball 7.0 item 20.

And from the side of the inner cavity of the shaft it is necessary to remove:

- annular spring 28 pos. 29;
- rubber ring, pos. 28;
- metal ring pos. 27;
- rubber ring 15 pos. 26;
- ring 9 pos. 25;
- flat metal washer 28, pos. 22.

Barrel shaft disassembled

The electrical part of the Makita 2450.2470 rotary hammer includes:

rotor pos. 54;

stator pos. 59;

circuit breaker TG813TLB-1 pos. 68;

carbon brushes SV-419 pos. 65;

brush holder pos. 63.66.

To remove the stator, it is enough to knock on the end of the green plastic housing from the stator side with a wooden mallet or block.

But first you need to unscrew the two self-tapping screws 4 × 60 mm pos. 57.

With frequent tapping on the body, the stator spontaneously protrudes beyond the edges of the body, and then is pulled out by hand.

The remaining elements of the electrical part of the Makita 2450 or 2470 perforator can be easily dismantled, since they are not attached to anything.

Even very reliable Makita rotary hammers break down over time.
Any breakage is eliminated, you just need to have straight arms and perseverance.
In addition to electrical malfunctions, rotary hammers are also susceptible to mechanical damage.

Repair of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 and 2470 perforator
Mechanical malfunctions of the Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 rotary hammers
- Repair of parts of the barrel of the Makita 2450 perforator
Operation of rock drills with hard materials in a dusty environment will shorten the service life and require user intervention for repairs.

Any tool repair begins with determining the nature of the malfunction and disassembling.

The Makita 2450 and 2470 hammer drill can be repaired by a user who has basic locksmith skills and is familiar with electrical safety requirements.

This article discusses the mechanical part of the Makita rotary hammer, the main malfunctions and how to fix them.

To get to the mechanical part of the hammer drill, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.

Dismantling the quick-release chuck
Place the punch on the rear case cover on a tabletop covered with a clean cloth or paper. Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.

Now you can remove the housing of the mechanical part
It is black.
Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws at the end of the case.

Next, you need to remove the gearbox shaft.

To disconnect the mechanical part from the electrical one, you must first remove the electric brushes.
Remember! In the lower part of the housing, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.

After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the rotor lamellas, use a screwdriver to pry the metal housing of the hammer drill at the border of the green plastic housing.

Now we turn to disconnecting the rotor from the mechanical part of the perforated

You will get such a unit in the old grease.

You will get such a mountain of clean details.

Frequent mechanical failures of Makit punchers include:
- destruction of the quick-release chuck;
- failure of bearings;
- breakage of the striking mechanism;
- drill barrel wear;
- wear of striker and striker rubber bands;
- breakage of gears.
The hammer drill chuck is repaired to replace the boot and rubber ring, as well as the conical spring and the steel ball, which secures the working tool (drill). This is indicated by what is a working tool? namely, the drill does not hold well in the chuck.

The main reason is the wear of the steel ball 7.0, item 20, art. 216022-2. The wear of the ball occurs from contamination of the bore of the cartridge due to the ingress of dust and dirt.

The general view and device of the Makit perforator cartridge is shown in the photo below.

Do-it-yourself repair of the makita 2450 perforator cartridge is easy. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discarded rubber parts, replaced defective.

More complex malfunctions require knowledge of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 perforator.

Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita perforator, proceed to disassemble the mechanical part, called the gearbox.

Disassemble the mechanical part according to the attached video.
Free it from old grease.
Carefully inspect all parts, their integrity, level of wear. All rubber products require replacement during any disassembly.

Consider repairing the barrel of a rock drill. Let's analyze the mechanism completely.
Video of disassembly, lubrication and assembly of the Makita perforator

The assembly of any mechanism should be started after careful preparation. It is necessary to prepare not only the parts, but also the tools, the place, the lubricant.

For a long operation of the Bosch perforator, any regular and timely maintenance is necessary, the use of high-quality lubricants.

Interskol angle grinders (grinders) are very reliable and durable. They are distinguished by good performance and high reliability. But.
Makita power tools have long established themselves as professional, reliable and easy to maintain. In addition, it has good maintainability and a relatively low price.

Of all the lines of punchers, I want to dwell on the model Makita HR 2450... The tool is very easy to use, has three modes of operation and can withstand very long loads. For the author of these lines, the perforator has worked faithfully for more than six years without breakdowns. Moreover, it was used in the mode of intensive loads. But at one fine moment ...

As you know, nothing is eternal. And reliable technology breaks down. Somehow, in the midst of work, he stopped hammering. In rotation mode, the machine worked, but the blow suddenly disappeared.

The gearbox was disassembled and the cause of the breakdown was identified.A bushing was broken in the barrel body, in which the striker (striker) directly carries out impact work. As a result, the drummer got stuck in the fragments of the collapsed bushing.

The service center advised to replace the barrel completely. It turned out that the bushing is pressed into the barrel at the factory and is not supplied separately. I had to buy an entirely new barrel.

In this article, we will tell you how to bring the hammer drill into working order yourself after this, in general, simple breakdown. If you have the skills to repair power tools and a desire not to pay someone your hard-earned money, then we take the tool and start disassembling the machine.

You will need two regular flat-head screwdrivers and one cross-head. One of the flat screwdrivers should be thin and narrow, no more than 4 mm wide. You will also need a wire hook to remove the retaining ring. It can be made from a bicycle spoke, the main thing is that the wire is rigid and does not easily unbend. You will also need a rubber mallet or wooden mallet.

Disassembly of the punch should be started by removing the protective rubber cap - boot. It can be easily removed, just take it with your fingers and pull it off the barrel.

Then, pushing on the plastic cover and squeezing the spring of the SDS + mechanism lock, remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver.

Remove the stopper using a screwdriver

The cover is removed from the barrel, and behind it, again squeezing the spring, we take out the retaining ball together with the spring and the figured washer.

Then the mode switch is disassembled. There is a special slot for a screwdriver under the cover holding the red release button. By inserting a screwdriver into this groove and prying the cover slightly, first from one edge, and then from the second, carefully remove it. You should not make significant efforts here, the lid is still plastic and may break. The red button together with the spring is removed from the switch body, and it is moved to the left until it stops, a little further than the drilling mode. It is from this position that it is removed from the gearbox. For this operation, the switch must be lightly picked up with thin screwdrivers on both sides and removed together with the rubber O-ring.

Remove the punch mode switch

Now the gearbox is removed. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four bolts connecting the box to the stator housing. Then, holding it with your hand, you need to lightly hit the end of the barrel with a mallet in order for the box to come off the gearbox.

Remove the gearbox

After removing the box, we take out the barrel from the gearbox. It comes off easily.

We take out the barrel from the gearbox

Remove the old grease with a rag, and rinse the barrel with gasoline or kerosene and wipe it dry.

So, as mentioned above, it was required to completely change the entire barrel. However, this item, bought in a service center, turned out to be "naked as a falcon." That is, there was absolutely nothing on it and it was necessary to rearrange all the details from the old barrel to a new "blank".

The most difficult operation was the extraction of the striker from the barrel body. There are special holes in the barrel body through which the retaining ring is visible. This ring holds the firing pin with rings and rubber dampers in the body seat. Insert a thin screwdriver into the hole and slightly bend the ring. We do this first on one side, and then on the other. The stopper should come out of the groove.

Use two screwdrivers to squeeze the stopper

Then, from the inside, with a homemade wire hook, we pull out the stopper into the light of day.

Read also: DIY biofireplace repair school

With a wire hook, remove the stopper from the inside

Next, we remove the firing pin with washers and rubber rings. It is necessary for the assembly to remember or sketch the location of all rings and washers. If something goes wrong, the photos and drawings from the article will help.

Now you need to remove the gear from the shaft. Pressing on the washer and squeezing the spring, use a thin screwdriver to remove the retaining ring from the groove. After removing it, remove the washer, spring and gear from the barrel.

The toothed wheel is pushed onto the new barrel and meshed with the splines. Next, a spring with a washer and a stopper are installed on it. It is necessary to insert the retaining ring and fix the mechanism in the working position.

To do this, take the barrel in both hands and, resting it in your palms, with your fingers squeeze the spring with force, while simultaneously moving the washer and stopper down. It is necessary to squeeze until the stopper enters the groove.

Then a firing pin with washers and rubber rings is installed inside the barrel in the order in which it was sorted out. But first you need to pay attention to the condition of the drummer, his appearance.

If the firing pin has dents and pits after a long period of work or because it was scratched on a broken bushing, then it should be sanded down a little. To do this, it is clamped into a drill chuck and processed with fine-grained emery cloth. But if the irregularities are too large, then the drummer will be easier to replace.

It is necessary to lubricate the firing pin with special grease before installation and then use the grease during operation. When inserting the drill into the hammer drill, you need to apply a little grease to its shank. This extends the service life of the machine.

Having installed the striker mechanism in the barrel, we fix it with a retaining ring. Using a screwdriver, we try to move the striker on both sides inside the barrel. It should walk easily in the canal and not jam.

The assembled barrel is installed in the gearbox housing. Putting it on a cylinder with a piston, we put it into mesh with the drive gear and insert it into the body. All parts should be well lubricated during assembly.

Installing the barrel into the gearbox

Then we install the gearbox, after having lubricated the needle bearing. With four bolts, we pull the box to the stator housing and install the operating mode switch in place. To do this, set it to a position slightly to the left of the drilling mode.
Insert the red spring button and move the switch to the drilling mode. We snap on the plastic cover and check the operation of the switch.

Reinstall the mode switch

Snap the cover of the punch mode switch

Then, in a final chord, the SDS + mechanism is assembled. Having installed the spring of the mechanism, we put on a curly washer and insert the ball. Then, with a plastic cover, we squeeze the spring of the mechanism and insert the retaining ring. Putting on a rubber boot is no longer difficult.

Squeezing the spring with a washer, install the retainer ball

Installing the SDS mechanism

Trying the hammer drill under load. When the machine is operating, there should be no extraneous noise in the gearbox, the mode switch should be easily moved without jamming. In general, everything should work as before the breakdown.

The author of this article hopes that it will help dear readers to understand the repair of a hammer drill. Any breakdown can be simple if you find its cause. And then it all depends on your skill and diligence.

The author is fine, he described everything in detail, the only thing I forgot to write is that when you put the mode switch, you need to turn it counterclockwise so that it snaps into place.
In general, thanks, I repaired my perf in half an hour, it turns out that the firing pin just jammed. As a result, I cleaned it, greased everything, everything works.

The article is kind, but I can't understand how the striker repair kit gum is located.

I have not seen a better description, thanks to the author.

instead of replacing the barrel, he replaced the bushing (broken), but on BOSH 1610290029 they call it a scraper. Assembled checked (drilled two holes for fasteners F8 works), let's see how it goes next. Cost 120R. and lubricants.

Please tell me how to remove the drill from the cartridge if it turns out to be defective and so as not to harm the cartridge

Video (click to play).

How long did you work with a drill jammed in a chuck? It can be assumed that the shank was riveted due to poor quality drill material. There is also a possibility of cranking in the chuck. You can try to pull out the stuck drill by holding it in a vice and, shaking it, pull the drill towards you.You can use any lubricating fluids. But in the case of a very strong deformation, this method is unlikely to help. Then it is better, if possible, to contact a workshop. An attempt to disassemble the hammer drill and knock out the drill yourself without appropriate experience can lead to the failure of the hammer drill itself.

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