DIY repair pierburg 2e2

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Pierburg 2e2 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Information applicable for car repairs:

Volkswagen Golf 2 (191, 192, 193, 194) 1984 - 1988
Volkswagen Jetta 2 / Volkswagen Jetta 2 (165, 166, 167, 168) 1984 - 1988
Volkswagen Golf 2 / Volkswagen Golf 2 (1G1) 1989 - 1992
Volkswagen Jetta 2 / Volkswagen Jetta 2 (1G2) 1989 - 1992

Volkswagen Passat B2 / Volkswagen Passat B2 (327) 1982-1988
Volkswagen Passat Variant B2 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B2 (328) 1982-1988

Audi 80 B2 / Audi 80 B2 (811, 812) 1979 - 1987
Audi 80/90 B2 / Audi 80/90 B2 (813, 814) 1979 - 1987

Skoda Felicia / Skoda Felicia (791) 1994 - 2001
and many other vehicles with 2E2 carburetors.

Although we discussed it many times, I decided to do it. Suspicious sounds in the carb region, jerking when releasing the gas pedal and small pops from the exhaust awakened in me a desire to operate on the carb, for 2 years I did not visit him, and then he began to complain.
After removing the patient, I immediately found a torn pillow under it, I was already preparing for its preventive replacement and there was a new one at hand, so I immediately put it on, plus changed the fuel sump just in case (an iron can in front of the engine, there is a return hose from it), put the carburetor into a bag and went home, on the way going into a car shop and buying an aerosol cleaner for carbs. Prepared a place on the floor, since there is no garage, then it’s not a problem to sort out the house. He laid newspapers, put a sheet of chipboard on top, and put an old basin.
Here he is a patient, beforehand on the street I cleaned him a little with a cleaner.

I was smoothly preparing for the bulkhead and therefore purchased original parts

Video (click to play).

As you can see in the photo, the CO adjustment screw is completely screwed in, I was trying to adjust the idle ones, because they floated terribly, and unknowingly tightened the screw, but there were idle ones, since the carb sucked air through a torn pillow

He unscrewed 4 screws and cut the patient in half, inside he turned out to be clean, he used carba cleaners from time to time (which are poured into fuel)

Started from the bottom, unscrewed the economizer valve

I prepared a replacement for him - the original Vagov valve from Skoda Felicia, one to one the same, but it costs much cheaper

We disassemble the old valve, there is nothing criminal, the membranes are intact, replaced for prevention purposes.

We unscrew the idle channel heater, few people attach importance to it, but it is necessary, especially in winter! We sandpaper the seats for better electronic contact.

Now we disassemble the accelerating pump.

There, too, there is no crime, the new original membrane is also Shkoda's (right)

Now we carefully pull out the nozzle of the accelerator pump, it looks like a faucet, it is very fragile, I wrapped it with a rag and carefully pulled it with pliers

On the bottom of it there is a red filter in the form of a mesh and a rubber ring, we check their integrity, the ring is replaced with a new one (if it passes, then additional gas will flow, and the next increased consumption)

We check the integrity of the vacuum drive of the second chamber, nothing complicated, disconnect the hose from the carb, manually open the flap of the first chamber and suck in air, if the second one opens, the drive stem leaves, you feel an effort, then the drive is working

We disconnect the vacuum hoses from the carbine one by one so as not to mix it up, and insert a purifier tube into each fitting, rinse it, dirt also accumulates there and can clog the fitting

The turn reaches the three-position block - this is a very important part, it is responsible for idling and during the ignition is turned off prevents diesel fueling (when the engine continues to work without ignition) when we turn off the engine, the electric valve turns off and the stem of the three-position block goes to the limit, thereby the throttle valve is fully closed, preventing the flow of fuel.

At the back of this block there is a valve, which rotates to adjust the idle speed. The principle is that the vacuum flow is regulated by rotation, and the stem either leaves (idle less) or vice versa (idle rises). On this valve we check the sealing rings

Now we put everything in reverse order, put a new economizer

We collect the accelerating pump

Do not forget to replace the idle channel heater.

I turn to the upper part, to replace the float with a needle, we need a punch of a suitable diameter to knock out the bushing on which the float is fixed, carefully knock out

You need to knock out in the direction shown by the arrow

We take a new needle, it is original and there are no problems with the length

We insert a needle and a new float, carefully hammer in a new bushing from the opposite side, on the left in the photo is the number of the float with a needle, on the right is a successful replacement

In the upper part, you should also pay attention to the gaskets of the diffusers, do not check them, but if you do not know if they have changed, then it is better to change, since this can also be the cause of increased consumption. I did not change, I did it during the last bulkhead. The procedure is as follows, carefully. knock out the diffuser by putting something wooden, clean the place from the old gasket and install a new one. First, put the diffuser, and then only the wedge is clogged, a new one is necessary, usually gaskets come in repair kits right away with wedges. In the photo, red arrows indicate gaskets, blue wedges

Checking the vacuum drive of the pulldown air damper, suck in air through the lower hose, closing the upper hole, if the damper opens, you feel an effort, there is no hiss, then most likely it is working, but if you haven't changed it for a long time, it is better to change it. price, walked for half a year and were torn, spat and put the pierburg-2 year normal flight.

Approximately the opening of the air damper can be adjusted with the help of a mouth and a drill, put a spring on the air damper actuator so that it is closed, but without effort, we do not close the upper opening, we suck in air through the lower one with our mouth, the damper will open until the air hiss in the pulldown, the opening is adjustable by turning the round counter in front of the hexagon, clockwise it will open less, counterclockwise more, we need to make the first opening stage 2.2 mm (different values on different engines), check the drill with a drill. and suck in air, the damper will open further, ideally we need about 5.8mm (again, depending on what kind of engine). But it is limited by a bolt on the opposite side of the rod, we twist it and make sure that it touches 5.8mm at the moment of opening the damper Well, in general, that's all, there are not many holes in this carb, if it is not very much started, it is not difficult to flush. I don’t write a warm-up iku, since I don’t have it, it’s a little nakolhozheno, I will not advise.

From the crime, I found that he was not holding the three-position block, but it’s not exactly clear, who would tell me, I press the stem all the way with my finger and plug both fittings, and the stem slowly climbs to the end, that is. the membrane passes, 2 years ago I remember it seemed to hold on to the stock until you remove the finger from the fitting. Probably this is one of the reasons for the constant floating of the idle (the stock walks back and forth). e. I will not order at all. Tomorrow I will go to the car market, as usual they will offer a carb assembly for 2-3 thousand, and it is not clear with a working unit. Oh, I wouldn't run into a non-working one again.

I post a screen of my order for details from Skoda Felicia with numbers, as you can see, the prices and waiting times are pleasantly pleasing, compared to vw, where one membrane is about 2000r. and a period of 14 days.

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Plus, you will need to order a float with a needle (it will not work from Skoda), order number
VAG 025 129 391 A
And the repair kit pirburg 4.01249.00.0 there should be a large gasket between the upper and lower part and gaskets of diffusers with wedges. If you want to save money, then a large gasket from a Skoda Felicia (VAG) one-to-one fits, costs much less.
her number VAG 115 940 990 is ridiculous, about 60 rubles.

If you did not find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car.
With a high degree of probability, the information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car as well.

All documentation in English is marked (eng.), In German - (ger.)
For everyone who has a Volkswagen, hands and the desire to do something with them.
For all who has Volkswagen, hands and desire to do something by them.

Carburetor Pierburg 2E is known far beyond the borders of its homeland. We invite you to find out why this model has gained such popularity in our country. You will see all the advantages and disadvantages of the carburetor in this material.

The pierburg 2e carburetor has several variants with only minor differences. So on the 2E1 carburetor there is a manual starting device. On the 2E2 model there is an automatic starting device, and on the 2E3 model there is a semi-automatic cold start mechanism (before starting a cold engine, it is necessary to set the throttle valve to an adjustable starting gap by pressing the gas pedal twice). The most progressive model can be considered the Pierburg 2EE carburetor, which uses electronics.

Pierburg, like other carburetor models, does not have any special maintenance requirements. For its long-term operation, it is only necessary to periodically carry out such procedures as washing and drying with compressed air. The adjustment of all models (2E, 2E2 and 2E3) is also quite simple, despite their intimidating appearance.

Advice. Servicing carburetors of the 2E2 and 2E3 series must be extremely careful, taking care not to damage the threads and holes.

The most interesting thing that the Pirburg series 2E carburetor has is its starting system. The launch control lies with the vacuum regulator, which performs three different functions at once:

With the engine running, but not yet warmed up, the heating system is activated, which maintains the engine speed at 3000.
The coolant gradually heats up and the throttle valve begins to close smoothly. Due to this, the engine speed is reduced to a level of 1500 rpm.
The engine warmed up to 70 degrees, allows you to slow down and keep them at the level of 700-800 per minute.

One of the main advantages of this carburetor model is the presence of a vacuum economizer. The main essence of this device is the rapid enrichment of the mixture with a sharp press on the gas pedal.

It is worth noting the peculiarities of warming up. The carburetor is equipped with special heating elements that allow it to warm up and improve its mixing properties. The rest of the carburetor system is absolutely the same as that of domestic cars. This is a float chamber, jets and a diffuser. Due to these components, a mixture of fuel and air is prepared.

Tuning Pierburg 2e3 and 2e is a little harder than tuning a domestic-made carburetor. This is especially true for idle speed control. In this model, the idle system is directly connected to the thermostat and electronic valve. Thanks to this tandem, the carburetor has the ability to automatically adjust the idle speed depending on the engine temperature.

In the absence of malfunctions in the 2E series carburetor, adjusting the idle speed is elementary. This is done using the quantity and quality screw. The quantity screw sets the required revolutions, and the quality screw sets the lean mixture.
You can reduce air resistance and improve the quality of the carburetor by polishing the diffusers and grooving the joints.
The dosing system, if desired, can be modified by replacing the nozzles. But finding them can be tricky.
Particular attention should be paid to setting up the accelerator pump on the 2E3 model, since it is he who directly affects the performance of the engine.It is necessary to modernize it to such a state that when the gas pedal is pressed, gasoline would be sprayed as long as possible. This manipulation will allow the car to pick up speed sharply and quickly.

On cars that have been working regularly for several years, small malfunctions in the carburetor are often encountered.

An economizer problem can occur with each of the models, including the 2e2 and 2e3.

The enrichment often has such a problem as membrane rupture. As a result, fuel begins to drain into the intake manifold, black smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, the engine runs intermittently, and carbon deposits form on the spark plugs.
The economizer springs should be installed only according to the markings: 2e2, 2e3, 2E, etc. There are 6 types of them in total, which differ in length and stiffness.

On a car with high mileage, there may be such a problem as the deformation of the spray. You can solve this problem yourself:

Remove the sprayer;
Compress the deformed area in a vice, achieving an even circle;
Check the fit of the atomizer on the top of the carburetor (it should sit securely and tightly).

Attention. Overdoing it with the atomizer mount can damage the protective gasket, which will again lead to deformation of the part.

Air jet contamination is also common. The problem is solved by flushing the jets with flushing fluid.

A defective needle valve and float can be found on both 2E and 2E2 and 2E3 carburetors. It is solved by replacing these objects. Attention should be paid to the conformity of the parts with the marking of the carburetor. When replacing the needle, you should especially carefully observe the level of the float, which is not regulated by anything.

A properly configured and installed Pierburg carburetor (2e2, 2e or 2e3) will allow its owner to forget about the existence of other carburetors. All this is possible thanks to economy and impeccable performance. You can drive on such a carburetor for several years without even remembering the failures and other troubles.

Hello everybody!!
Please help.
Passat B3, 1.6; craburetor PIRBURG 2E2
Eats gasoline 16-17 liters.
But when I connected a liter bottle directly to a gas pump (the car was hot), I drove 11 km on a liter (so the consumption is clearly less than 10 liters)
The fuel lines are all intact - checked
CO - normal (both at idle and under load)
The fact is that it seems to me that the consumption is large - when starting up and warming up.
Is it possible to adjust the work of the carb in the warm-up mode on your own?
Can vacuum tubes on carbet be affected?
Sincerely,
Konstantin

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Pneumatic actuator DZ.
The main part is a three-position block (3-xPB). A round metal splash with a diameter of 7-8 cm, from which a rod sticks out, which rests on the DZ drive lever, more precisely, on the adjusting screw on the lever. Carba is located on the left below. 2 air tubes come out of it from behind - one to the solenoid valve, the other to the tee (T1). From the tee - to the thermal valve and to the lower part of the carb. The electrovalve (EK) is a black rectangular box behind the carb (it cannot be seen without removing the carb). It looks like an electromagnet (i.e. a core and a winding), at one end of which there is a plastic build-up with tubes at an angle of 90 degrees. The second tube with EC goes to the T2 tee and then goes to the upper part of the carb, where it connects to the atmosphere (after the filter!). The thermal valve (TK) is located on the left just above the 3-hPB. Black plastic tablet with a diameter of 3 centimeters thick. The second tube with TK through the T2 tee also connects to the atmosphere in the upper part of the carb. Below this description is duplicated in the form of painting.

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How to determine the type of carburetor
If you remove the cover and shroud of the air filter and look at the carburetor from above, you can see: “Pierburg 2E”.If you now tilt your head to the left, you can try to read its number on the right side of the wall of the carb from above. The numbers of the Pirburgian carbs are deciphered in the table.
Number Carb Gaps VZ
030 129 016 A / L 1B3 *
052 129 016 A / B / C / E / F 2E3 *
030 129 016 A / B / C / E / F 2E3 *
037 129 016 A / B / C 2E3 *
027 129 015 A / Q / T 2E2 2.3 / 4.7
027 129 015 G 2E2 2.2 / 5.1
027 129 016 A / BQ / R 2E2 2.2 / 5.1

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Sizes of fuel jets
Fuel jets for the 2E2 carburetor can be selected from the VAZ-classics.
On 2E2 jets are used:
engine 1.6 - chamber1 110, chamber2 127
engine 1.8 - chamber1 105, chamber2 120.
Carbs from the classics:
2105 - camera1 107
2107 - camera1 112
2106 - camera1 130

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Engine does not drop high revs
Question: Car GOLF-2 1.6L carburetor 2E2. When driving, the revs sometimes jump sharply (more than 3000). Then, as you move, the revolutions fall. This can happen many times. Sometimes the engine does not want to drop the warm-up speed - the temperature is already normal, but the tachometer is 3000. What to look in the carburetor?
Answer: The speed is increased by the pneumatic throttle valve. In this case, it should seem that “someone” is pressing the gas pedal. About the device of the pneumatic drive has already been told earlier. In order to localize the malfunction, make sure there is a vacuum in the tube going from the bottom of the carb through the tee to the three-position block. If there is a vacuum, remove the tube from the tee to the thermal valve from the latter and plug it. If the stem has not left, the three-position block itself is to blame. To check it, see here. If left, there is a problem with the thermal valve. Check the voltage on it - when the ignition is turned on, it should be 12.V. If there is voltage, the valve is replaced. Although, in principle, you can do without it. Plug the tube leading to the 3-position block and the bottom of the carb and everything should be fine.

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The engine stalls after warming up.
Question: Golf 2 carb Pierburg 2E2. After starting a cold engine, it runs for 5 minutes and stalls. When you try again, it seizes and immediately stalls again. After a few attempts, it can start. A minute - and then stalls again. What to do ?
Answer: The problem may be in the pneumatic throttle valve, the function of which is to maintain the speed of XX on a warm engine. In the meantime, the engine is cold, the position of the DZ is controlled by a thermal actuator. You can check the pneumatic actuator as follows. After the cold engine has started, you need to look at the stem of the three-position block. If it is completely drowned, we are on the right track. It is necessary to see if, when the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to the solenoid valve (rectangular box behind the carb). If not, watch the wiring. If the machine includes a forced idle economizer, there is a reason to think about its serviceability. In the diagram, it is designated as J130. Now if there is voltage at the solenoid valve. When voltage is applied, it should open with a loud click - check by blowing. Maybe it got jammed somehow and it won't open.

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The engine runs erratically at the end of warm-up and at idle.
Question: 2E2: unstable idle operation, about every 20 seconds the motor seems to freeze for a second. With normal regulation, the CO is very unstable at the end of the warm-up. Strong jerking during gas release (engine braking), sometimes repeated.
Answer: Reason: a small rubber ring on the accelerator pump mushroom. This fungus (it looks like a tiny kitchen faucet) is located under the lid (top) of the carb, on the side of the primary chamber, inserted quite tightly. There may or may not be a small strainer underneath the fungus. If there is no filter, then the ring will fit from the classic carba (available in carb repair kits), if there is a filter, then you will have to buy your own repair kit. There is also an option to throw out the filter - then a ring from the classics will do. ...
The fact is that if there is a leak in the place of planting of the fungus, additional gasoline begins to flow directly into the primary chamber. It comes unevenly, depends on the temperature. Moreover, if for 2E2, thanks to the regulation of air supply to the XX system, it is possible to obtain the correct mixture, then for 2E3 this is impossible.
Of course, after replacing the ring, you will have to adjust the XX - to enrich.

1. Actually, not a lot of theory.

The carburetor prepares a mixture of air and gasoline in a certain ratio (usually about 14 to 1 (air-gasoline)), and due to the stroke of the throttle valve when the accelerator pedal is pressed, it produces more or less mixture. The mixture, getting inside the intake manifold already in a spray state, is sucked through the valve into the cylinder, and, as a result of combustion, makes the engine work. It is clear that it is primitive, it looks something like this, but we don't really need to go deeper now. The carburetor is quite simple in principle, but it may seem much more complicated, at first glance, inside. A huge amount of body kit, pipes, a complex and incomprehensible shape, all this often puts the owners in a kind of panic, and it is preferable to give this unit for tuning and repair in some kind of car service, rather than try to solve the problem yourself. Well, we are not looking for simple ways, let's talk about everything in order:

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And then the hour came when everything, the carburetor was removed from the car, washed, all gasoline was drained from it. Now what? Now we need a slotted screwdriver and 15-20 minutes of time. Somehow it so happened that when a carburetor fell into my hands for minor repairs or flushing, I always took it apart to a screw and washed everything in great detail. I advise you not to be afraid, and do the same here. It is better not to remove only the thermo-timer valve if it is still working. But be sure to rinse and lubricate its rods and fasteners, check how much the damper moves freely (ideally, it opens with a slight pressure with a fingernail). In the event of a malfunction, it is necessary to disassemble this unit with special care, because it is quite fragile. We put all the removed parts in order, be sure to lay out the fasteners separately in groups. We disassemble the carburetor into two main parts: the upper and lower covers. To do this, unscrew the 4 bolts marked in the photo below, and take out the tubes of the vacuum drive. The float and pressure compensator (the one that comes out on the other side of the vacuum actuator), in order to remove, you need to use a small drift. I used a small core. But without fanaticism, the bows, though thick, are fragile.

In the future, it will be much easier not to make mistakes when assembling. We wash all internal parts in gasoline. If carbon deposits have formed on the body and in the chambers, then remove all plastic parts from the body and put the body in acetone for a day. After that, everything is cleaned off just with a bang. We purge jets and all similar systems with compressed air.

A few words about the repair kit: having ordered a “Repair kit for PIERBURG 2E” from a friend, I received a small box from TORPAN, which contained a huge number of gaskets, membranes and other things. As it turned out - only three units of carburetors, but the 2E has at least three modifications. So when assembling from such a kit, you need to carefully compare the parts, many differ radically, and some very slightly.

1) Aperture of the economizer of power modes. We take the pliers and remove the retaining washer with a rubber ring from the old diaphragm. When assembling a new one, be sure to check whether it is firmly in place (often you have to press very hard until a click appears). By the way, when I do not immediately tighten the screws, I always tighten the screws at the end, when I checked everything and did not find any “extra parts”.

2) Accelerator pump... It is important to take into account that there were two almost identical diaphragms in the repair kit. We choose the one we need (in my case it is with a long stock), try it on.

Be sure to lubricate the pusher ball and the rod itself with any machine oil.

Separately, it must be said about the rubber valve. We rinse it thoroughly in alcohol, let it dry and check for cracks, etc. I didn't have it in the repair kit, and my dear one seems to be alive.

3) Float and shut-off needle. One of the best things about this carburetor is the fact that the float mechanism does not require any adjustment (again, the notorious Solex tells us otherwise). Everything is extremely simple: we will have to remove the retainer from the old needle and install it on the new one.

4) Pad. There were three pieces in the kit, I chose the right one, compared it with the old one, tried it on. Everything seems to be good.

5) Vacuum throttle opening mechanism. Actually, there are only two parts: the compensator and the vacuum drive itself. The compensator initially contains an adjustment screw for a hexagon, I advise you to replace it with a similar slotted one during assembly. Much more convenient when setting up. It is necessary to snap on the rod of the vacuum drive after it is fixed to the body with screws. The latch itself is not very fragile, so we must be careful. When connecting the hoses, we look at what they would wear with a slight interference. If this is not the case and they are free to walk, the second chamber will not open for sure. It is necessary to replace the dangling component, or rather both at once. If you can't get a new one, you can buy a gas hose from a Chinese moped and try to install it here. Diameters fit.

6) Thermal valve. You need to collect carefully and without unnecessary effort, because it is the most fragile block in the entire carburetor.
We pre-lubricate everything with WD-40 or an analogue, be sure to clean it. Before installing, we look no matter what wedges anywhere.

7) Other body kit. We tighten the under-tightened, tighten the fasteners, see what could be superfluous. We tighten the fuel fitting without fanaticism, if the washer is no longer suitable, then we select a similar copper one and burn it (heat it on the stove to blue and throw it into the water, so the copper becomes softer).

How long or short, but meanwhile, it took me about an hour to complete the bulkhead. This is with washing and eating a sandwich. I hope this article could help you with something. At least - because not everything is as complicated as it might seem at first glance.

The continuation will be about tuning, and about the bulkhead and tuning of Solex itself.

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vPMSHYYOUFCHP RTPVMEN U 2e2 ABOUT NPK CHZMSD CH FPK YMY YOPK UVEROY UCHSBOSCH U EZP UVBTFPCHPK BCHFPNBFILPK. rPD ÜFYN UMPCHPUYFBOYEN RPOINBAFUS HUFTPKUFCHB, HUFBOBCHMYCHBAEYE OKHTSOSCHE RPMPTSEOIS DTPUUEMSHOPK Y CHP'DKHYOPK ЪBUMPOPL RTYMSEBUTPUTPUTPK BUMPOPL RTYMSEBUTSBUTPUTPK OYTSE OBRYUBOP OENOPZP P FPN, UFP LFP YB KHUFTKUFCHB, ZDE OBIPDSFUS J LBL TBVPFBAF.

UNPFTINE ABOUT LBTV, OBIPDSUSH URETEDY NBYYOSCH.

rPDTBKHNECHBEFUS, UFP LBTVATBFPT HUFBOPCHMEO ABOUT DCHYZBFEM, TBURPMPTSEOOPN RPRETEUOP, LBL, OBRTYNET, OB ZPMSHZHE. eUMY DCHYZBFEMSH TBURPMPTSEO RTPDPPMSHOP (OBRTYNET, BKHDY 100), CHUE OYCEUMEDKHAEYE PRYUBOYS TBURPMPTSEOIS TBMYUFSHI YUBUFEK LBCHEPTWATBUTPUT

uRTBCHB YJ LBTVB FPTYUIF NEFBMMYUEEULIK GYMYODT U LHRPMPVTBOBOK LTSCHYLPK DYBNEFTPN NN 50 YJ LPFPTPPZP CHOYJ HIPDSF 2 FPUZMSHBDP YMP CHOHFTY GYDYODT TBDEMEO ABOUT 2 RPMPUFY. h MECHPK OBIPDYFUS VYNEFBMMYUEEULBS URYTBMSH, LPFPTBS YUETE'OEUMPTSOHA UYUFENKH FSZ RPCHPTBYUYCHBEF CHP'DKHYOKHA ABUMPOLKH. uRYTBMSH IPMPDOBS - ’BUMPOLB ’BLTSCHFB. h RTBCHPK YUBUFY FEYUEF FPUPM, PVPZTECHBAEYK URYTBMSH Y PVSCHYUOBS OYITPNPCHBS OYFSH: DMS HULPTEOIS PFLTSCHCHBOYS CHED.ABUMPOLY. TBPVTBFSH LFKH YUBUFSH NPTSOP PFLTHFYCH PDYO VPMF OB 13, FPTYUBEYK YY GEOFTB LTSCHYLY RTYCHPDB. rTPLMBDLB LTSCHYLY RPYUFY UFP PDOPTBPCHBS - EUMY OE NEOSFSH, ULPTEE CHUEZP, FPUPM VHDEF FEYUSH. uOSFSH CHEUSH RTYCHPD GEMYLPN SPTSOP PFLTHFYCH 3 CHYOFB X EZP PUOPCHBOYS.

aboutB IPMPDOPN DCHYTSLE ch DPMTSOB VSCHFSH YBLTSCHFB. rTY ITS RPCHPTPFE RBMSHGEN DPMTSOB PLBSCHBFSH OEVPMSHYPE RTPFYCHPDEKUFCHYE. eUMY LFP OE FBL - OBDP UNPFTEFSH OE OBTHYMBUSH MY UCHSHSH NETSDKH URITBMSHA Y ch'Y OE UMKHYUYMPUSH MY UFP-FP U UBNPK URYTBMSHA.

eUMY PUMBVYFSH 3 CHYOFB, LPYNY RTYCHPD RTYUPVBYUEO L LBTVH, EZP (RTYCHPD) NPTSOP VKHDEF CHTBEBFSH, TEZHMYTHS HFYNY ULTKHYUURBOYCHBOYCHS ABOUT LТBE GYMYODTB OOBEUEOP 5 NEFPL J PDOB NEFLB RTYUHFUFCHHEF ABOUT LPTRKHU LBTVB. ьFB TEZKHMYTPCHLB PRTEDEMSEF ЪBCHYUINPUFSH RPMPTSEOIS ЪBUMPOLY PF FENRETBFKHTSCH FPUPMB. vSCHUFTP PFLTSCHCHBEFUS - UNEUSH VEDOBS - VHDHF RTPCHBMSHYUILY, NEDMEOOP - UNEUSH VPZBFBS - YTS TBUIPDKHEFUS VEOYO. FP EUFSH, EUMI RTY RTPZTECHE EUFSH PECHEEOYE, UFP UNEUSH VEDOBS Y'-B FPZP, UFP ch' PFLTSCHBEFUS RPD DEKUFCHYEN FETNPRTYCHPDB UFFCHYEN FETNPRTYCHPDB UMFYUPYLPUPSCHN

x OELPFPTSCHI NPDYZHYLBGYK 2E2 ABOUT LPTRKHUE FETNPRTYCHPDB ch OBOBEYEOB FPMSHLP PDOB NFLB - CH FPN UMKHYUBE YI RTPUFP OHTSOP UPCHNEUFYFSH.

TBURPMPTSEO CHCHETIH LBTVATBFPTB URETEDY URTBCHB. ьFP YUETOBS LTKHZMBS RMBUFNBUUPCHBS ZHYYEYULB DYBNEFTPN NN 30-40. yb OEE YDHF 2 CHODHYOSHI YMBOZB. PDYO CHOY LBTVB, DTHZPK - ABOUT FTPKOIL, U OEZP - L EMEOPK ZTKHYE (vacuum tank, "MYOYS ROECHNBFYUEEULPK ABDETTSLY" J F.R. CHOHFTY OEE OYUESP OEF... 🙂 Y CHRKHULOPNKH LPMMELFPTH YUETE'PDOPUFPTPOOIK LMBRBO. yb LPTPVPULY OBBD CHDPMSH RTBCHPK UFEOLY LBTVB CHCHIPDIF FSZB, LPFPTBS UPCHNEUFOP U FSZPK FETNPRTYCHPDB HRTBCHMSEF RPMPTSEOYEN ch. roECHNPRTYCHPD RP BNSCHUMH LPCHBTOSCHI OENGECH TBVPTLE Y TENPOFH OE RPDMETSIF. pDOBLP ABOUT UBNPN-FP DEMA LFP OE FBL. YOBYUE LBL VSCH NSCH HOBMY, UFP CHOHFTY OBIPDIFUS TEYOPCHBS NENVTBB, UCHSBOOBS U FSZPK, J RETERKHULOPK LMBRBBO, PFLTSCHBAEYKUS RTEENPEENPENTEDEME.

aboutB IPMPDOPN DCHYZBFEME ch'BLTSCHCHBEF VYNEFBMMYUEEULBS URYTBMSH.rTY ABHULE DCHYZBFEMS ch OKHTSOP RTYPFLTSCHFSH, YUFPVSCH OE VSCHMP RETEPVPZBEEOIS UNEUY. ъBOYNBEFUS FLYN ROECHNPRTYCHPD. TBTETSEOYE YY OYTSOEK YUBUFY LBTVATBFPTB YUETE 'FTHVPYULH DCHYZBEF NENVTBOH, FSZH Y ch DP FEI RPT, RPLB OE PFLTPEFUS RETTERHULOCHUPDN LMBPRTBRTBRT. rTPYUIPDYFSH LFP DPMTSOP LPZDB ch PFLTPEFUS ABOUT 2.2 NN. hRPSOHFSCHK LMBRBO CH FPF NPNEOF UPEDYOSEF RPMPUFSH, CH LPFPTPK OBIPDYFUS NENVTBOB, U VEMEOPK ZTKHYEK Y, YUETE PDOPOBRTBCHMEOOSCHK (DCHHKHIGCHEM. ch OBIPDYFUS CH FBLPN RPMPTSEOY DP FEI RPT, RPLB DCHYZBFEMSH OE OBVETEF PVPTPFSCH. rP NEETE OBVPTB PVPTPFPCH PE CHRKHULOPN LPMMELFPTE KHCHEMYUYUYCHBEFUS TBTSTSEOYE, YYUETE OELPFPTPPE CHTENS PDOPOBRTBCHMEOOSCHK LMBBBO ЪBLTSCHBEFU. dBHMEOYE CH ZTKHYE OBYUYOBEF RBDBFSH Y LBL FPMSHLP POP UTBCHOSEFUS U DBCHMEOYEN CH OYTSOEK YUBUFY LBTVB, FSZB ch HFPRYFUS CH LPTRKHU HSPDNBP. ch RTY LFPN DPMTSOB VSCHFSH PFLTSCHFB OB 5.1 NN. (ABOUT UBNPN DEM DMS TBOBOSHI DCHYZBFEMEK LFPF BBPT LPMEVMEFUS PF 4.7 DP 5.8 NN). rP NETE RTPZTECHB VJNEFBMMYUEEULBS RTKHTSYOB PFLTSCHCHBEF ch RPMOPUFSHA.

rTPCHETYFSH ROECHNPRTYCHPD NPTSOP OBVMADBS ЪБ чъ RPLB LFP-FP YBCHPDIF IPMPDOSCHK DCHYZBFEMSH. uOBUBMB ch DPMTSOB RTYPFLTSCHFSHUS ABOUT 2.2 NN. YUETEH OEULPMSHLP UELHOD - ABOUT 5 NN. rTY RPRSCHFLE RBMSHGEN ABLTSCHFSH ch DPMTSOP PEHEBFSHUS UYMSHOPE UPRTPFYCHMEOYE. about OB ZPTSYUEN DCHYZBFEME, LPZDB ch PFLTSCHFB URYTBMSHA, ChP'NPTSEO FPMSHLP RPUMEDOIK CHBTYBOF RTPCHETLY. eUMY DCHYZBFEMSH OE ABCHPDYFUS, DMS RTPCHETLY ROECHNPRTYCHPDB OBDP UOSFSH FTHVPYULH, YDHEHA UOYJH LBTVB, Y RPDKHFSH YUETECH OPTECH ROCHPD. eUMY RTPIPDIF CP'DKHI, EUFSH RTPVMENSH. lBL RTBCHYMP, DAMP CH RPCHTETSDEOYY TEYOPCHPK NENVTBOSCH. lBL ITS BNEOIFSH, UN. ADEUSH.

oEPVIPDYNB DMS CHSCHUFBCHMEOIS RTBCHYMSHOSHI ЬBPTPCH ch. rTPDEMSCHBEFUS CH 2 LFBRB.

WOYNBEN AT ROECHNPRTYCHPDB PVE FTHVPULY. chNEUFP FPK, UFP IDEF CHOY LBTVB, CHUFBCHMSEN CH ROECHNPRTYCHPD VPMEE DMYOOHA. ITS DTHZPK LPOEG UHEN UEVE CH TPF Y CHUBUSCHCHBEN CHUBUDKHI, UMEZLB ЪBLTSCHCHBS RBMSHGEN ch DP RPSCHMEOYS PEHFINPZP UPRTPFYCHMEOIS (OB IPMPTBPEB). ъBSPT OYTSOEK YUBUFY ch UP UEOLPK UNEUIFEMSHOPK LBNETSH DPMTSEO VSCFSH 2.2 NN (ЪБНЕТСФШ NPTSOP UCHETMPN.). TEZKHMYTKHEFUS ABBPT RHFEN CHTBEEOIS RETEDOEK LTSCHYLY ROECHNPRTYCHPDB. about UMKHYUBK, EUMY POB OE LTKHFYFUS THLPK, CHE GEOFT EUFSH PFCHETUFYE DMS YEUFYZTBOOILB OB 6 NN.
ъBFSHLBEN CHFPTHA FTHVPYULH Y PRSFSH CHUBUSCHCHBEN CHUDKHI YR RETCHPK. ъBPT FERETSH DPMTSEO UPUFBCHMSFSH 5.1 NN. TEZKHMYTKHEFUS CHYOFFPN RPD CHOHFTEOOYK YEUFYZTBOOIL OB 2, LPFPTSCHK CHLTHYUEO CH FSZKH ROECHNPRTYCHPDB U PVTBFOPK UFPTPPOSCH. rPD LFPF CHYOF CH BDOEK UFEOLE LBTVB UDEMBOP PFCHETUFYE.