In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a flame arrester from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Well, what guys have we already thought about that - how to replace the catalyst with a flame arresterI think it turned out interesting. In this article, we "out of the corner of our eye" touched upon the "PLAMEGAS" device, but today I would like to tell you more about it. Namely, what does it consist of (I will post a few useful photos), and also is it possible to do it yourself ...
THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE
As we understood from the article (follow the link above), the catalyst can be easily and simply cut out of the exhaust system. And that your car will work the same way as it did, the ecology will simply suffer, because there will be no filtration of exhaust gases. But many of my readers ask this question - is it possible to knock out the catalyst and not install the flame arrester, that is, leave the "empty" pipe altogether? Of course you can, but it is fraught
Actually, the topic has long been disclosed - of course, it is POSSIBLE. However, as usual, there are several downsides that you will encounter.
Increased exhaust sound. No, do not think that your engine will roar like a sports car, the catalyst (as well as the flame arrester) dampens only 5 to 7% of the sound wave. That is, it will make noise, but not much. However, if you are a picky driver, it will be really annoying.
Reducing the resource of the entire muffler as a whole. Why? Yes, everything is simple - a Catholic neutralizer (as well as a flame arrester) trap hot gases, cooling them down. Then the gases pass much colder, that is, the metal of the entire remaining muffler "does not burn". If you do not want to put either one or the other element. This means that you simply transfer the hot gases further along the "pipe". That is, it is likely that the resonators, the joints of the muffler, will "burn" much faster.
Video (click to play).
Actually, for these reasons, it is worth putting a flame arrester, if you knock out your filter, it was not invented for nothing.
At the moment, there are two main options:
Immediately after the collector - that is, the collector type, is now used very often, we can say that it costs 70% of the cars.
Trunk - that is, it stands on a pipe (roughly in the middle), often used on turbocharged engines. After all, the maximum gas pressure from the engine is needed there, so it is often not installed on the exhaust manifold.
As a rule, the collector type is very simple in design, but the main ones can be more complicated.
Now you can distinguish several basic designs by which flame arresters are made:
Straight... In fact, this is a pipe driven into a housing with a certain non-combustible material. That is, the gases meet practically no resistance here. Often, such options are equipped with trunk "dampers".
Funnel... This is when the pipe narrows, that is, the diameter at the top is larger (at the beginning) than the diameter at the bottom (at the end). Here the gas pressure acts on the stacks, giving off part of the gases.
Spiral type.A spiral is installed inside the pipe, along which gases, as it were, descend from the inlet to the outlet.
Resonator type. Here the device is very similar to a resonator. THEN there are several chambers inside and pipes that do not stand in one line. Thus, it turns out that the gases meet the walls, give off part of the energy, and only then pass on.
I would also like to note that the wall of any high-quality flame arrester must be double, with a "gasket" made of special non-combustible material. That is, it turns out like a cake, it is done in order to avoid a ringing sound under the bottom of your car.
It is the “direct” (that is, the first) type from our rating that is considered classic. I will try to tell you more about its device:
A straight pipe is taken, in which holes (or perforations) are drilled.
Then the body is made, as I indicated above, the desired of two sheets of iron, and the "spacer" between them. They are welded in the form of a cylinder or ellipse.
Insert the pipe into this "barrel". And they lay on the sides a special, non-combustible material, usually basalt wool.
Then the top and keg are brewed, leaving only one tube.
That's all, gases enter the pipe and settle through the perforation in the material. Giving off the temperature and part of the sound wave.
Of course you can, and they are made in every garage. Often they are installed in place of the just knocked out catalyst.
However, it is worth learning, if you want your flame arrester to work for a long time, then it must be made of stainless steel. Because it perfectly resists rust, road reagents.
If you weld from ordinary steel, then its service life will be limited to a maximum of 5 years. Actually, it will simply rot. But if you nevertheless choose a stainless steel, then the service life can stretch for 10 years, and even more. The only thing is that it is gentle to be able to weld a stainless steel.
Now we are watching a useful video.
Removing the catalyst on the vehicle improves vehicle dynamics and reduces fuel consumption. Sports tuning ateliers unambiguously remove the catalyst and suggest replacing it with a flame arrester. The flame arrester by its design is straight-through and it does not delay the release of exhaust gases and at the same time performs a very important function, it "extinguishes the flame" coming out of a running engine, which can eventually burn through the rear can of the muffler. That is why it is so important not just to cut out the catalyst and cook a straight pipe instead of it, or simply open the catalyst, gut it and close it back, and install a flame arrester instead of the remote catalyst. It is very difficult and sometimes impossible to buy a flame arrester for a certain car brand, and ordering it from the other side is long and expensive. Not finding a suitable one for my car, I decided to make a flame arrester with my own hands, special equipment is not required there, the main thing is the presence of straight hands and material.
So let's move on to the manufacturing procedure, for this we need two iron pipes, one with a diameter equal to the diameter of the exhaust pipe of the muffler, the second with a larger diameter and steel mesh brushes for washing dishes. On a pipe equal to the muffler pipe, cut out holes with a diameter of 3 mm (by gas welding or with a drill) along the entire circle and length. Then we insert this pipe in the center into a pipe of a larger diameter and weld it on one side.
Then we stretch the mesh-brushes in a circle in the form of a ring, put it on a pipe of a smaller diameter and push it tightly with a metal bar until it rests against the closed end of a pipe of a larger diameter. We continue this procedure until the last brush mesh reaches the free end of a larger diameter pipe. It took me 26 brush nets to fill in the empty space.
After that, we bend the ends of the pipe of a larger diameter, previously cut with a grinder, and scald them in a circle. This procedure helps to avoid unnecessary ringing noises of the flame arrester while the engine is running. For beauty, you can paint it with silver spray paint. Now, with peace of mind, we cut out the catalyst and weld the manufactured flame arrester in its place.
P.S. A flame arrester instead of a catalyst can be installed on cars with Euro norm 2. On cars with Euro norm above 2, an oxygen sensor is provided with a lambda probe after the catalyst and its removal can lead to an error in the engine control unit, which in turn will increase fuel consumption and worsen the dynamics of the car ...
We take an old resonator, he is 2 years old 45t.km., for the body of the flame arrester, an old silencer was needed.We cut the muffler into metal.
Outer sheathing of the muffler drain 2 layers of metal - outside 0.6 mm; inside - 0.8 mm., by the way, it is well preserved, a little corrosion between these two layers of metal. Next, we look closely at the photo, everything is clear.
The outer diameter of the cut pipe is 80mm, thickness is 1.5mm, suitable for the flame arrester body.
We use the remaining piece for the end walls, then, due to the reluctance to cut the resonator pipe in half due to the further complexity of joining, it was done as follows: the flame arrester body is welded, cut along:
We put on the halves, scald them, then on the outside with a second layer we weld a shirt 0.8 mm thick onto the flanges of the end walls with a gap between the shirts of about 5 mm, the flanges in the previous photos can be seen, the result:
On the end walls - also on an additional layer of metal 0.8 mm
further on the body of the flame arrester noise-sound-heat insulator - plate with flanges with asbestos fabric inside
We cook the pad from the bottom of the car
Similarly, from the bottom side, a pad with asbestos for the resonator, we cook:
By the way, the stench is decent when paraffins come out of asbestos ... from heating. Now we clean with a scraper disc and a metal brush
We degrease and paint with thermal paint (otherwise it will quickly corrode by welding, tear all welded seams well with a brush) thermal paint is declared up to 538 degrees Celsius, let's see ... By the way, one bottle was enough for painting in three layers, there was one extra bottle left ...
Now in a week I will install it somewhere, now there will be no time, there are plans to remove the old (new) resonator, remove the thermal screens from the bottom, clean and cover the barrier in 2 layers with vibro-mastic, assemble in place, and, by the way, reinforced resonator suspension pillows (weight -that added), I hope the metal sound will go away, or it will become much less, in any case, I will approach the assessment of changes carefully and as objectively as possible, otherwise I myself somehow got stuck with SAAB ... motors, the turbine itself dampens the sound decently and the task there is to remove the exhaust as easily as possible. By the way, between the wall of the native resonator and the outer tube of 1.5 mm thick, I was afraid to shove stainless steel brushes for dishes, suddenly they would start to fray with vibrations and pressure and sprinkle into the exhaust or even into the engine, write comments, we will discuss. Yes, I almost forgot, the end walls of the glushak drain and the stainless steel exhaust tip, a mysterious Russian soul, if only 2 outer skins were made of stainless steel, it would not be killed. inside everything is practically new.
Because international environmental standards are getting stricter all the time. Accordingly, change and vehicle requirements. It is worth noting that at the moment, cars are equipped with catalysts, which reduce the level of exhaust gas emissions into the environment. At the same time, a catalytic converter is a rather expensive unit, so that when an element fails, you do not need to immediately run to the store to buy a new device. In addition, such an element reduces the maximum power of the vehicle, and also slightly increases fuel consumption.
All these problems can be solved by installing a flame arrester. But it is rather difficult to acquire such a device. Thus, if you want to save time and effort, we will tell you how to make a flame arrester for a car with your own hands.
Before you start making a flame arrester from the catalyst reservoir of an Audi 100 or any other car, you should decide whether you can do without such a device at all. Indeed, a good alternative to the catalyst would be a direct-flow installation instead of a worn-out catalytic converter. That is why the removal of the catalyst has recently been very common, such a procedure can be done, for example, here:>
On the other hand, such a solution will lead to the fact that the exhaust gases will emit a lot of extraneous noise.In addition, their temperature will not decrease, which will affect the accelerated wear of a number of other vehicle components.
In addition, modern cars have a built-in sensor, due to which error signals will appear on the on-board computer if the device is dismantled. You can solve this problem with the help of a service center specialist.
In addition, according to the Euro-4 standard, it is necessary that a special device was installed on the car that reduces the level of emissions into the environment.
As you can see, installing a flame arrester instead of a catalyst is not so easy, because a lot of difficulties arise here. At the same time, if you approach the solution of this issue correctly, then all these difficulties can be easily overcome.
There are three solutions here:
buy a new original device;
use a universal element;
make a flame arrester instead of a catalyst with your own hands.
It is about the last option that we will talk about now.
Before answering the question of how to make a flame arrester from a catalyst with your own hands, you need to understand what this element is. In fact, the assembly consists of several chambers, which are housed in a cylindrical stainless steel housing. The device has a direct flow design so that the exhaust gases are not trapped, and the special shape of the element helps to suppress vibrations.
Additionally install resonator or stronger, which provide more stable system operation (Stronger is preferred as it prevents back pressure from occurring).
We decided to make this element. First of all, if you started making a flame arrester with your own hands, you will need drawings of this device. Read them carefully before proceeding with any action.
For the works themselves, we need:
welding;
drills;
grinders;
two pipes made of metal (one corresponds to the diameter of the neutralizer, and the second is slightly larger);
metal brushes that are used when washing dishes;
faulty catalyst.
If you do not know how to make a flame arrester with your own hands, then first you should cut the faulty catalytic converter into two halves, then remove the honeycomb from it. In the smaller pipe, which is then connected to the exhaust tract, we make a couple of small holes. Then we insert it into a large pipe. Before that, it is important to center them, as well as weld one edge. Next, you should fill the space that has arisen between the pipes using metal brushes. Try to tamp them as tightly as possible.
We decided how to fill the flame arrester. After we bend the edges of the pipes, and then completely scald them. The finished structure is placed in the catalytic converter housing and welded. It is then assembled and welded at the incision site. The flame arrester is ready, after that it is necessary to weld it into the exhaust system of our vehicle.
If desired, it is worth covering the system with a corrosion-resistant compound. This will increase its service life. It should be noted that this is not the end of the work. To remove the Check Engine error, you need to install a special trick.
When we have already made a flame arrester with our own hands, it is necessary to solve the problem with the ECU, which receives a signal from the oxygen sensor. The most common way out of this situation is to limit the lambda probe from most exhaust gases. As a result, the data received by him will correspond to the norm, so that the error will disappear.
This requires the installation of a special spacer where the sensor is located. The lambda probe itself is somewhat removed from the catalyst. This way everything will work correctly.