DIY plastic repair scooter

In detail: do-it-yourself plastic repair of a scooter from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Let's analyze the sequence of plastic repair on a scooter with our own hands.

You will need material and tools:

- fittings for welding: you can use metal spirals, nets or paper clips from a stapler;
- hand vise, if the plastic is broken into separate pieces, or if the cracks are large;
- pieces of plastic;
- a device for melting (softening) of narrowly targeted action: use a thermo gun or a manual gas burner.

So, you have prepared everything you need for the renovation. Now it's time to start fixing.

1. First, remove all dirt from the plastic.

2. Then take a sharp knife and cut the corners of the edges to be welded from the outside and inside. You have triangular grooves.

3. From the prepared pieces of plastic, cut pieces of a square or rectangular shape with a width equal to the width of the grooves.

4. Weld in the spiral across the seam in 10-20 mm increments using a soldering iron. Be careful not to boil the plastic through, but make a sufficient number of strong seams.

5. Begin to weld the dead end damage. To do this, first melt a small (5-10 mm) section of the groove and attach the prepared plastic rectangle to it. Move the flame along the groove, melting the part and placing it on the melted area. Then melt the crack on the outside and inside.

6. After splicing any existing cracks, weld all seams again to relieve stress and reinforce.

7. Wait for the area to be repaired to cool down and process it from the outside until an even surface is formed (sand it).

Video (click to play).

The described method is suitable if the damage is large enough and the cracks are large. If there are no large chips and cracks on the plastic, you can simply glue it. This is possible if the cracks are not more than 1-2 cm, and there is no additional load on the damaged area, for example, fasteners.

To glue the plastic, prepare:

- dense bag fabric (it is also called "canvas");
- good glue or cold welding for plastic.

To glue the plastic, follow these steps.

1. Make large cuts and scratches on the back of the plastic. This is necessary so that the tenacity of the glue increases - it simply does not stick to a smooth surface.

2. Grasp the damaged area with a vise or have an assistant hold it. Fill with glue and, without waiting for drying, put a piece of burlap (the size should be taken approximately twice the length and width of the crack). Pour glue again liberally.

3. Wait until it is completely dry and work the seam from the front side with a fine skin.

Many modern motorcycles are replete with plastic panels to complete the bike's look, improve aerodynamics and protect critical components. In order to protect these parts from damage, modern polymers are made flexible and resistant to shock, but even this does not save the motorcycle from falls and accidents. In such cases, the manufacturer offers to replace the part with a new one, which costs a lot of money. We have prepared several available options for how to make plastic on a motorcycle with our own hands.

First of all, it is worth determining the degree of damage. With the proper approach, you can restore a completely broken part, but sometimes it will cost at the level of buying a new one. If the damage is relatively minor and refers to a structure that does not carry a critical load, such as a part of a motorcycle body (maxi scooters), then cosmetic repair methods are suitable.

Cracks, chips and gluing of several pieces of plastic can be carried out using a hot air jet or a soldering iron.Responsible supporting structures, as well as parts with a high degree of damage, are best repaired using methods that involve restoring the mass of the plastic part and its characteristics (rigidity, elasticity, etc.) In cases where the plastic can no longer be repaired by patching or gluing, there is an option to make part from scratch. To do this, you will need to carefully study the entire modeling process, have a lot of summary time and nerves. Often, in such cases, it is easier to purchase a used spare part and repair or even buy new plastic.

To repair the plastic of a motorcycle with heated air, you will need a construction hair dryer, but not any, but with a temperature controller. You can use the cheapest device, but then there is a risk of overheating the plastic, which will lead to the loss of its basic properties. Overheated material will be brittle and may break when vibrated from driving on normal roads. You will also need a special nozzle with a thin nozzle, about 5-8 mm.

In addition to the hair dryer, you will need a large piece of plastic identical to the one being welded. To do this, you should pay attention to the markings of the part, most likely in front of you there will be a product of the PP, RA or ABS brands. Polypropylene PP, for example, melts at 300 degrees, and starts burning at 350, so it should be welded at a temperature of 300 - 340 degrees. Polyamide or PA should be cooked at 410 - 460 degrees, ABS at 360 - 400.
Soldering process:

For greater convenience, we remove the part from the motorcycle and wash it from dirt and oils.
We clean the edges of the parts with medium-sized emery paper, level the edges, and try to make a hollow in areas close to the surface.
If we weld the breakaway parts, then we lean the pieces against the base and grab them with a heated hairdryer in several places (from the inside). Otherwise, if you weld the parts one by one, some sections can twist and it will be impossible to achieve a flat surface without alignment with additional materials.

Advice. If the plastic twists initially, then for ease of work with it, you can fasten it with staples.

From a piece of plastic that is suitable in composition, we cut out a strip, 0.8 - 1.5 cm thick, this will be our solder.

From the edge of the crack (it is better to start from the inside), we begin to warm up the seam as soon as it begins to melt, lean against the solder and then direct the stream partly to the seam and partly to the solder. As the plastic melts, it will fill the seam, you can help this process by lightly pressing on the plate, at the moment when the material has become sufficiently liquid.

If the fracture shape has many turns, make solder plates with a margin of up to 5 mm, and connect several sections only by complete melting. When the seam is ready, you can start working on the front part. If you did everything correctly, the inner seam will give the piece of plastic sufficient rigidity, so the external fix will be more cosmetic in nature. The process itself looks identical, with the exception of the solder strip, which should be made thinner. After finishing the welding of the front part, the plastic should be cleaned, and if necessary, apply a paint and varnish layer on it or hide the error with a sticker suitable for the style.

Such a do-it-yourself plastic repair of a motorcycle is practically no different from the previous one. The main difference will be the tool used. You will need a high power soldering iron that you don't mind getting dirty. Here, too, the type of material to be welded and the suitable solder are important. The latter can be found in the form of special ribbons in stores.
Welding process:

We dismantle the part, wash it from dirt, clean the edges with sandpaper and degrease it.
Putting together the puzzle from the broken pieces, grabbing them with spot welding from the inside using a soldering iron. (further work is carried out exclusively from the inside of the product).
Starting from the edges, we lean the soldering iron against the seam and, melting it through, we form a deep hollow.
Now the parts hold on, but not yet firmly enough. The next step is the direction of the new layer, for this we melt the solder with a soldering iron near the hollow. While the plastic is still liquid, we level it with a sting to get an even layer.

Advice. With proper skill, you can simultaneously make a hollow and fill it with solder.

So the process will take much longer and require more concentration, but the layers of plastic will hold better, which means that the connection will be more durable. If you did everything right, then you will end up with a strong seam, which looks rough from the inside, but from the outer turns out to be almost perfectly flat. This will be achieved by deep melting of the mass when forming a depression.

Note! Some people advise using reinforced metal mesh for reinforcement. This option only makes sense if you are working with fragile, poor quality material that is not capable of bending.

Repairing the plastic of a motorcycle can be done by gluing the parts together.
For this we need:

epoxy resin and hardener;
fiberglass;
gloves;
Castor oil.

Speaking about the restoration of the plastic of a motorcycle, do not forget about the complete replacement of missing or damaged parts. Here we split the process into making the panel from scratch and making the missing piece. The hardest part is making the part yourself. It is possible to completely repeat the factory forms only from fiberglass. The process is very long, not the cheapest and only suitable for enthusiasts. Initially, you should make a matrix that repeats the shape of the future part. A layer of fiberglass and resin is gradually applied to the die to form the part. Then the product is sanded, primed and painted. Such a detail will last exactly until the next incident, because fiberglass is very fragile, and its repair does not make sense due to the loss of rigidity of the entire structure. Finally, the repair of the plastic can be done with a piece of plastic of the correct composition and size. From the workpiece, cut out a shape that repeats the missing part. The method is suitable for straight sections and with a slight spherical bend. Bending can be obtained by heating the part, shaping it and fixing it until it cools.

Finally, I finished my titanic work on plastic recovery. As usual, I got into serious work in an industry that I knew practically nothing about. I had to study it on the go. I warn you right away - this work is a novice amateur in the field of puttying, so pros, criticize, but you don't need to laugh. This article helped a lot, I highly recommend it: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2798/rabota-so-shpaklyovkoy From there he took the method of preparing the putty - he made himself an easel from a piece of tin, before each kneading a fresh piece of paper on it, stir the putty with an electrode 2.5. I didn't believe it myself until I tried it - but this is a very convenient and simple way to make a putty.I will immediately share the first mistake - on the putty jar, there was an inscription 2-100, i.e. 2 parts hardener to 100 parts putty. I didn’t give it enough (or maybe I didn’t give it enough), as a result, the first mix of putty on the test part did not dry even after a week. After reading the article, I give 5% and everything dries up perfectly.In general, scooters are often brought to me in which the plastic is in a deplorable state. Until now, I have easily dealt with cracks, fasteners, holes. But then a scooter arrived, one part of which was destroyed by 40%. The owner wanted to buy a new one, but could not find it, I offered to restore it. So this almost two weeks of brain fucking began. After studying many useful articles on the Internet, I stocked up: a suitable wire mesh (the smallest one I found in a hardware store), epoxy glue in bottles (I did not find buckets of resin on sale), a soldering iron, metal scissors, a drill, emery, superglue, putty for plastic (I have 48 UAH.half a kilo, half a kilo and took), and also stock up on patience and swearing. All this was useful to me.There are no first photos of what the part looked like before the repair - it was a pile of plastic debris, which was given by the owner, who doubted its success. I, too, doubted for a while, twirling the wreckage in my hands. Then he began to work. First, I glued the parts together in a couple of places with superglue, then glued them from the inside with epoxy and bandages, with a thick layer. I made sure that the epoxy got into all the cracks not affected by the superglue. After drying for a day, I cut out a couple of suitable pieces from the mesh (with a margin, of course) and began to solder them with a soldering iron, forming the missing parts. It took half a day. The soldering iron burned out, I had to swear and buy a new one for 145 UAH. It will not work to solder the mesh to the epoxy, here you need to be careful and not overdo it with the epoxy itself in the initial stages.Spent a lot of time to give the product its final shape. Unfortunately, I did not think to make a template from the surviving right half, because they are symmetrical. In the future, this led to a mismatch of parts. Keep in mind that the manufacture of a wire base is a very important process, it cannot be profiled and it is hoped that the putty will level everything up. In my case, it was barely enough for work.Go ahead. When everything is ready, you need to glue the wire from the inside with something, so that you can then apply the putty on the outside to the mesh. I used an unnecessary rag, epoxy and super glue. Superglue showed the best results - the fabric should be fixed only so that it does not fall off when spreading on the other side of the putty. You can generally do without any adhesives there, and try to smear the putty, holding the fabric on the other side with your hand, as it is more convenient for you. The whole trouble is in my grid, it is quite large. With a fine mesh, such problems would not arise. I also note that on the front part, there was an oval hole before, for the size it seems. Since the size went to the forefathers, and I had no idea about the geometry of the hole, I just repaired it. You can always cut through if necessary.So, let's assume that everything is ready for puttying. Apply the first layer. Let it dry for a day.Apply the second layer. It turned out crookedly for me, because I applied it for too long, the putty dried out, it gave too thick a layer, I had no experience in this area yet. Dries again ...I sanded with an emery wheel 120, jambs, added another layer.Spent another sanding. Small cavities and bubbles opened again. I applied another layer, now for sure the last one. Do not forget, each layer dries for a day.Christmas trees-winders, after an eternity - finally the result, sanded with a drill and hand. Glimmers are visible - from under the putty the wire, which the emery took out, glistens. This is a major drawback, if the paint is scratched there, rust cannot be avoided. Using metal scissors and a hacksaw, I cut off the excess parts of the recreated parts, adjusting their edges to match the original.Immediately tried on a scooter. I didn’t fasten it, because there’s nothing, the fasteners were destroyed (then I’ll make a new one). You can immediately see where the jambs are - the misalignment of the halves. Asymmetry. That's why it was necessary to make a mock-up template. Lesson for the future. At least the part will fulfill its function.Well, at least it will sit tightly at the joints after assembly.That's all, it remains to paint. I will not describe this - there is no compressor and knowledge yet. The owner said that he would be quite satisfied with acrylic from a spray can. So be it.IN PRINCIPLE, I DID EVERYTHING CORRECTLY ONLY INSTEAD OF A RAG, I USE GLASS CLOTH DIFFERENT, SMALL MEDIUM AND LARGEgapon97,
do you read the rules at least sometimes?
you cannot write in capital letters, there are only minor exceptionsI did not find glass cloth, although I rummaged through the whole city. On the Internet I saw only rolls of 150 square meters, and I thought - well it tries. By the way, a detail fell off my table (pozhanula, infection), and so, she doesn't care - she sprung it up and that's it. The putty is normal.strelok-ultra- wah malAdets! now go to the next level - make the cladding from scratch, not the same as the standard one!Sergej_K, Thank you. As soon as I save some money, there will be styling, to the fullest. Fiberglass was identified for this business, the best "structural T-13", but it is difficult to find it on the Internet, not in thick rolls. 10 squares would be enough for me to start, and it is expensive. Let's wait and see how they say. With a regular tissue that I have adapted as an auxiliary fixation, it is really a lot of torment.they cut me by footage recently they took a square meter of 22gOn our motorcycle forum you will find all the answers to the operation, repair, tuning of a moped, scooter, motor scooter or motorcycle.Useful for repair:
- A device for softening (before melting) plastic of narrowly targeted action. Most often
use a thermal gun: air from the compressor passes through a heater with a handle and
narrow nozzle. But this thing is quite expensive, and if you do not have it at home, then you better find a manual one.
gas burner, which is filled with gas for lighters. In Moscow, you can easily find them in large
stores selling imported equipment. Cost - from 80 to 150 rubles. depending on the
set of nozzles. Apparently, propane burners are also suitable, which were previously sold everywhere in
set of 5 pcs;- Additional pieces of the same plastic from which your part is made. The easiest way
pick up at a landfill or near a car service;- The assistant is either a hand vise, if the cracks are huge or the plastic is broken into pieces;- Fittings for welding (staple clips, iron spiral or mesh).Let's start fixing.
1. Wash the plastic part from dirt;
2. The most important operation. With a sharp knife, cut the corners of the edges to be welded, as with the outer,
and from the inside. In other words, if at first the edges of the crack in the section looked
as “] [“, then after circumcision must become “> Image - DIY plastic scooter repair

Messages:783 Reputation: 54 Your bike: Yamaha Your name: Anton

Everything flows, everything changes ... And the grass is no longer as green as it used to be ... And the sun does not shine as brightly as in the old days and it is no longer so easy to breathe ... One thing remains unchanged in this rapidly changing world - the "quality" of plastic in Chinese scooters ...

Eh ... How I was worn out by this Chinese junk with eternally burnt valves and plastic breaking and flying into the trash ... Well, I would have understood if the plastic on the "Chinese" broke as a result of a blow or something else. But no, it breaks by itself. Even when the scooter just stands still, it bursts for no reason. But there is nothing to do and we have to put up with it. Or buy a branded scooter. However, not everyone can afford it.

In today's lesson, as a teaching aid, you and I will present the plastic parts of the scooter most susceptible to various damages.

Rear mudguard, shattered into three parts

Air purifier with a huge hole in the body

The "beak" of a scooter with a savory crack on the starboard side a la "did not go around the post in time" ...

You ask - how can all this Chinese junk be repaired now? It’s very simple, I’ll tell you. And for this we need the simplest electric soldering iron and a piece of some thin wire.

The process of plastic repair itself, that is, soldering, does not represent anything complicated. Take the soldering iron in your hand, place the tip across the crack and drive it into the plastic about half the thickness. Then, move the sting aside by a millimeter or two and again drive it into the plastic, not forgetting to level the nodules formed in the process of work on the surface of the part.

Soldered a small section

And immediately it was leveled until the plastic froze.

Before repairing, remove the damaged part from the scooter. If there is an opportunity to crawl to the part on both sides and the desire to crawl around the scooter on your knees, then the part can not be removed, but repaired locally. We thoroughly wash the part on both sides.If the plastic part is painted, then along the entire crack, about a centimeter to the side, we clean off all the paint to the very base.

We plug in the soldering iron, wait a while until it warms up. We apply the damaged parts to each other so that the joints of the faults go exactly into each other without distortions and gaps.

We fix the parts relative to each other with our fingers, take a soldering iron in our free hand and grab the parts, that is, solder the parts at several points. It is advisable to make tacks at both ends of the crack and in the middle.

After you grab all the parts to each other and your damaged part will take on its original shape. Do not forget to check the evenness of the convergence of the joints and, as accurately as possible, control the resulting geometry of the part as accurately as possible, otherwise, when you completely solder the part, it will be too late ...

And now, in order to strengthen the resulting seam to the state of the armor of the newest Russian t-95S tank, we turn the part over with the wrong side towards us, bend the previously prepared piece of wire with a snake and solder it into the crack.

Today, the plastics industry is developing rapidly, its application is especially popular in mechanical engineering. Buying a brand new motorcycle or scooter, you rejoice looking at its smooth shiny surface. But, unfortunately, there are times when the plastic surface breaks down, deteriorates under the influence of any external influences, or wears out over time. Repair the plastic of your favorite motorcycle or scooter can be produced in a car service, or you can save money by making everything with your own hands in your garage. Before proceeding with the repair, it is necessary to determine the brand of plastic material from which the damaged part is made. To do this, look at the back of the product, there is a signature "ABS" or "PP".

In the next photo, the glove compartment door has been processed.

And finally, the whole inner plastic - with an updated color!

With the help of such a simple procedure, you can rejuvenate the scooter for several years in half an hour.

For this method, you will need epoxy resin and hardener, glass cloth or serpyanka tape (sold in hardware stores), acetone, castor oil, a file and sanding paper, electrical tape or tape, plastic dishes and wooden sticks, plastic primer, polyester putty, auto enamel.

1. Surface preparation. The plastic product is washed in hot water with detergent to remove dirt and grease. The damaged areas are cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased with a solvent (acetone).If there are chips at the corners and edges, then vinyl tape is glued on the outside of the product, creating a barrier for the epoxy resin. Cloth tape is not allowed as it can adhere firmly to the resin and can only be removed with sandpaper. It is not necessary to create the exact shape of the broken edge of the product, since in the future, polyester putty and a file will help to shape it.

2. Large fragments of the part are glued with tape from the outside, and small fragments are laid out in the form of a mosaic on tape, and then put in place.

3. Preparation of epoxy resin. A jar of resin is placed in warm water for a couple of minutes to make the composition easier to pour out of the jar. Resin is poured into a plastic container, a hardener is added in a proportion of 1 part to 10 parts of resin and the composition is mixed with a wooden stick. Then add 1-3 parts of castor oil (acts as a plasticizer). If the resin is thick, you can add a little acetone to it. In a state ready for gluing, the mixture remains for 2-4 hours, therefore, as much epoxy is prepared as can be used in 2 hours. All this work must be carried out with rubber gloves, since the resin firmly adheres to the hands. And if for the first time a couple of hours it can still be washed with acetone, then it is very difficult to remove it later.

4. The resin is allowed to settle 10-15 to remove air bubbles. Next, they proceed to gluing from the inside of the product. Small cracks are eliminated as follows: resin is applied to the damaged areas and rubbed into the cracks. A piece of sickle tape or fiberglass is placed on top of the damage, covered with resin and also rubbed in. Usually, up to 2-3 layers of serpyanka are applied crosswise.

5. Medium-sized and large cracks are also repaired, but there should be 4-6 layers of serpyanka, and the width of the gluing should be 5-10 cm. Another layer can be applied from the front side. In places with a heavy load, instead of a sickle tape, use fiberglass (not on the front side).

6. Chips at the corners are removed as follows: pre-glued electrical tape and plastic are greased with epoxy resin and a patch is laid out from the serpyanka in several layers on the damaged area. It is difficult to completely fill the gap between the serpentine and the electrical tape, but this drawback can be corrected with putty.

7. A small mosaic of fragments is smeared with resin, trying not to disturb the layout, and rubbed into the cracks. You can also make a liquid resin, pour it in and wait for it to absorb. Serpyanka or fiberglass is applied with patches in 3-4 layers, and it is better to do this 16-20 hours after pouring with resin. Air bubbles and voids are not desirable. Dries all this day at a temperature of 18-25 degrees.

8. Next, the dried products are cleaned of resin drips, scuffs, the seams are also cleaned and the surface is leveled with a polyester putty using a spatula. The putty dries for about 12 hours, then you can sand the product with a "zero" sandpaper.

9. At the last stage, the product is primed with a compound for plastic (usually the primer goes in a spray can) and painted with auto enamel or other paint for plastic ..

Some of the plastic parts of the scooter are not painted. These parts are made of polypropylene. Polypropylene is very strong in bending, relatively resistant to scratches, so they are made by those parts that are potentially susceptible to mechanical damage: floor, side fairings ("skis"), rear fender, air filter housing, etc.

Over time, under the influence of nature (moisture, sun), even polypropylene takes on a "tired" look: the surface becomes whitish and ugly from stains. It makes no sense to paint the scooter's polypropylene in the area of the polic, because it will still be ripped off from the shoes.

Therefore, I recommend restoring its appearance using a heat treatment with a technical hairdryer (aka a thermal gun). The bottom line is to warm up the top layer of plastic, then it will melt slightly and return its former color.

We take a thermal gun, set the temperature to about 500 degrees and start driving the hair dryer nozzle over the plastic from a distance of 4-5 cm.The hair dryer should always be in motion, it is important not to overheat the plastic, otherwise it will deteriorate. And cover / bypass those elements and body parts that do not need to be heated (for example, painted ABS plastic, or the ignition switch, etc.). Only polypropylene can be heated!

Below you can see what is the difference between the processed plastic of the scooter (corrugated platform under the foot on the left) and the rest, whitish and ugly.

In the next photo, the glove compartment door has been processed.

And finally, all the inner plastic - with an updated color!

With the help of such a simple procedure, you can rejuvenate the scooter for several years in half an hour.

Note: This article and the images in it are subject to copyright. Partial or complete reproduction on other resources without consent is prohibited.

- A device for softening (before melting) plastic with narrowly targeted action. Most often

use a thermal gun: air from the compressor passes through a heater with a handle and

narrow nozzle. But this thing is quite expensive, and if you do not have it at home, then it is better to find a manual one.

gas burner, which is filled with gas for lighters. In Moscow, they are easy to find in large

shops selling imported tools. Price - from 80 to 150 rubles. depending on the

set of nozzles. Apparently, propane burners, which were previously sold everywhere in

- Additional pieces of the same plastic your part is made of. The easiest way

pick up at a landfill or near a car service

- An assistant or a hand vise if the cracks are large or the plastic is broken into pieces -

- Fittings for welding (staple clips, metal spiral or mesh).

1. Wash the plastic part from dirt -

2. The most important operation. With a sharp knife, cut the corners of the edges to be welded, as if from the outside,

and from the inside. In other words, if initially the edges of the crack in the section looked

like “] [“, then after cutting it should become “> plastic–

3. From pieces of additional plastic, cut "sticks" rectangular or square

sections with a width approximately equal to the width of the grooves-

4. We melt in the spiral with a soldering iron. You can heat the wire by passing a current through it (for this

suitable LATR - laboratory autotransformer with smooth voltage regulation). But

too elastic a spring will not fit well into the seam, so everything is better on difficult bends

the same gradualness. If you do not have such a transformer, then do not try to experiment with

outlet. Instead of wire, you can also use staple clips with already bent ends.

We melt them across the seam with a step of 10-20 mm. A fine mesh is also suitable as reinforcement -

frame from the air filter of almost any car. In the case of the mesh, then, holding the crack in a vice,

just weld it to the plastic with spot seams. You need to be very careful here - do not

boil the plastic through and through, but also make enough and strong seams for the mesh to hold

5. Start brewing from the dead end of the crack. Melt the groove section first

5-10 mm long and attach a stick to it. Warm up the sticky part of the stick so that it

melted. Move the flame / air jet along the groove while melting

Stick and placing it on the melted area. On the fused groove, the top should

6. After splicing all the cracks in this way, "weld" the seams again to strengthen them and

stress relief. Heat the "scars" until they melt

7. After everything has hardened, sand the outside with a fine sandpaper to a flat surface.

In the event that your plastic without large cracks and chips, then it can be glued. You need to glue

only very small cracks, about 1-2 cm long, and only if this place does not bear plastic

no load (fasteners, for example). To glue the plastic you need:

- Sack (from which bags are made) fabric, or the so-called "canvas" -

- Adhesive or cold welding for plastic.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. On the reverse side, apply large scratches and cuts.It needs to be big

tenacity of the glue, since it is known that glue does not stick to a smooth surface -

2. Coupling plastic gripped or held by an assistant. Fill with glue, and while it is not dry, immediately

put a piece of that burlap (we take the following size: about 2 times the long crack and

the same width). After the ego, we fill the whole thing with an abundant amount of glue-

3. When all this is dry, then we process the seam from the front side with a fine sandpaper, and

Once the plastic is repaired, it can be painted over and it will be like new again!

Do-it-yourself plastic repair on a scooter. We remove chips and lost fragments of plastic body kits using epoxy resin.

Methot shit - epoxy does not stick to abs plastic and it will fall off at the very first time and cracks will go.

What epoxy sticks to plastic? It will fall off soon.

Believe me, you can't gnaw it off with your teeth. Already 2 years have passed and everything is in place.

this epoxy is not suitable for repairing and making plastic. this brand of epoxy is afraid of high temperatures. for example, in a 30 degree heat, it becomes soft and disintegrates.

I've been driving for 2 years, everything is perfect.

if the moped is Chinese, then the plastic on it costs a penny

Yuri Volzhenin Hace 7 meses

Where can I get a smart guy, I can't even find my brand

There are a lot of Chinese mopeds and it is not realistic to find plastic for many. In my opinion, it is possible only through the Internet, and this is money and time. It costs 700-800 rubles per item. This is clearly not a penny, and it is gray (all the same to paint)

Mikhail Rzhevsky Hace 2 años

thanks! it is a pity that the final is without painted. interesting to see

Dmitry Alexandrovich Hace 2 años

TAKE A SOLDERING IRON IN HAND AND SOLDER)))) This is the same as not boiling metal, but gluing it for cold welding!

Dmitry Alexandrovich Hace 2 años

+ SlavaSRW you take good abs plastic, cut out about a patch and solder it in, then with sandpaper weave or 80 you trim the whole thing, if your hands are not from the priests, then there is almost no need for putty

Are you going to restore the missing fragments to the soldering irons too?

what if you pour without hardener.

Oleksandr Guschyck Hace 2 años

Construction mesh (Serbian) made of fiberglass, sold in any hardware store. It is used for reinforcement when filling cracks and cracks.

NoComments161 Hace 4 años

take off how to put Zhiguli silent blocks

Do-it-yourself plastic repair on a scooter. We remove chips and lost fragments of plastic body kits using epoxy resin.

Methot shit - epoxy does not stick to abs plastic and it will fall off at the very first time and cracks will go.

What epoxy sticks to plastic? It will fall off soon.

Believe me, you can't gnaw it off with your teeth. Already 2 years have passed and everything is in place.

this epoxy is not suitable for repairing and making plastic. this brand of epoxy is afraid of high temperatures. for example, in a 30 degree heat, it becomes soft and disintegrates.

I've been driving for 2 years, everything is perfect.

if the moped is Chinese, then the plastic on it costs a penny

Yuri Volzhenin 7 months ago

Where can I get a smart guy, I can't even find my brand

Mikhail Rzhevsky 2 rocky to

thanks! it is a pity that the final is without painted. interesting to see

Dmitry Alexandrovich 2 rocky to

TAKE A SOLDERING IRON IN HAND AND SOLDER)))) This is the same as not boiling metal, but gluing it for cold welding!

Dmitry Alexandrovich 2 rocky to

Are you going to restore the missing fragments to the soldering irons too?

what if you pour without hardener.

Oleksandr Guschyck 2 rocky to

Construction mesh (Serbian) made of fiberglass, sold in any hardware store. It is used for reinforcement when filling cracks and cracks.

NoComments161 4 rocky volume

Video (click to play).

take off how to put Zhiguli silent blocks

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