DIY plastic car fenders repair

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Sergei Fomin 18 Dec 2009

Actually the question: How and how can you restore (glue) the wing?

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Sergei Fomin 18 Dec 2009

Maybe there are ways to repair a plastic wing. After a little searching in the internet, I could not find a complete solution. since it all depends on the composition or on the type of the plastic part itself.
p.s. Buy more. but price + painting = most likely very expensive.
p.s2. Really no one repaired (glued) the wing.

p.s. Buy more. but price + painting = most likely very expensive.

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RomantikPoZhizni Dec 20, 2009

So I updated the car (((When turning, I ran into a curb and, apparently caught with a mudguard, tore out the right half of the rear bumper. Now the bumper is displaced back and moved 7-9 millimeters away. I tried to fix it back, though I didn't see much because of the snow, but in my opinion the retaining clip vomited.

Who faced what they did? Is it realistic to do it yourself or go to the dealer for bodywork?

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LISS Dec 20, 2009

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alexnik21 27 Mar 2012

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jouris1 31 Mar 2012

Actually the question: How and how can you restore (glue) the wing?

I did not glue the car fenders, but I glued the plastic parts of the yachts.

You will need fiberglass (it used to be wrapped around hot water pipes on the street, white) and polyester resin. We clean the wing from the back side, put in fiberglass and pour plenty of polyester diluted with a hardener. We dry for a day. You can replace polyester with epoxy (easier to get). But then you have to add plasticizers, otherwise it will quickly crack and fall off the wing. Check it out online, we used a few drops of castor oil. Here, for example: 102322 & t = 102322

On the front side, sandpaper + polyester putty + paint will help you. Everything is obvious here.

We have the following example: a crack in plastic.

Today we will learn how to fix it with our own hands. First you need to trim the edges at an angle. This is necessary in order to expand it and fill it with adhesive. After that, you will need to grind and degrease the place of repair.

Next, apply 2K Rigid. With the help of metal plates, we fasten the plastic. We fix them on the crack from the inside of the damage. We attach it well with an adhesive around the edges. It can also be applied on top of the plates. Using a repair mesh, we reinforce the crack so that it does not split. The drying time of the adhesive is 15-30 minutes, depending on the air temperature.

We prepare the repair area from the front side. The sequence of actions is very similar. First we expand the crack. Using the Mold Maker tool, copy the surface texture. To do this, apply this product to an undamaged surface. Drying time of the impression is 15 minutes. The next step is to sand the surface well and degrease it. Then you can gently apply B Gel to the crack.

After that it is necessary to spray B Activator onto the impression and, using a pad, press it against the crack. This is necessary to transfer the impression and activate the cruel. You can practice before starting this procedure. At the end of the process, the surface should be degreased again. When the repair and texture restoration procedure is complete, apply a clear Clean Primer. This is the stage prior to painting. We prepare the paint according to the technique described in this article.When the soil dries up a little, apply paint.

It often happens that light vehicles are involved in road accidents. Often these are minor and minor accidents, as a result of which the front fender is slightly dented or scratched. Naturally, you can go to the workshop, where they will conduct an inspection and establish the full scope of faults, as well as assess the damage and eliminate all damage received. However, it is quite possible to repair the wing on your own, if you own the theory and know how and can use some tools. Skills like these can help you save money on repairs.

Most motorists have the right skills to repair a car, as well as know what materials and tools are needed for this and how exactly they should be used. If you have no doubts about your theoretical knowledge, it may be worth putting it into practice. For example, let's take the most common case, namely damage to the front fenders. Also, do not forget about the possibility of different types of damage, because there are cases when even the best specialists refuse to take on the straightening and painting of the wing. Then it will be more rational to replace this part.

All you need to do your own straightening:

• Jack. In choosing a jack, a hydraulic one will still be the best option, but if there is no such, then a standard rack and pinion will do;

Set of hydraulic jacks

• Jack accessories, namely extension cords of different lengths. For a hydraulic jack, you will need pieces of a round and thick pipe, for a rack and pinion, pieces of a square pipe, stably fixed on a toothed rack. Pipes that have a square shape can be easily built from two corners welded together. The length of the extension cord should be between 40 and 45 centimeters;
• A straightening, rubber hammer is required, as well as massive support;
• The presence of sufficiently strong wooden bars, at least a couple of pieces, will not hurt;
• And also several varieties of sandpaper from No. 80 to No. 600.

Only having prepared all this, you can begin to start leveling the formed dent.

Straightening tool kit

Before starting work, be sure to remove the front wheel from the side of the damaged fender. Place a secure stand directly under the jack socket. Then you need to select one appropriate block and place it under the wing itself, on the stiffener near the headlamp recess. Then place the second block on the front panel of the body, or rather, in the rear section of the wing. The next step is to slide the square tube extension onto the rack of the jack. The jack itself with an extension cord must be placed between the bars. After that, you need to start working with the jack, as in the usual situation of lifting the car, thereby expanding the wing from the inside and stretching the resulting fold. Thus, the existing "bubble" will noticeably decrease, and most likely completely disappear, leaving behind only a small dent in the lower part of the wing. Having completed these steps, the time will come for the straightening of the wing itself.

Let's start by applying the support to the front side, then you need to straighten the remaining dent by tapping the wing from the inside with a straightening hammer or rubber mallet, without trying to loosen the jack. There is a possibility that a small area will remain with a defect at the decorative embossing line on the wing. However, even in this situation, there is a way to solve the problem, it is necessary to wrap a wooden rail with a rag and place it directly under the line, after installing the rail, you need to be hammer on it. This will help remove the bloating.

The embossed line is present in almost every part of the car body, since it is not only a decorative element, but also a stiffening rib of the body.If a section with a stiffener is damaged during an accident, then first it is necessary to bring the rib line to the starting state, and only after that proceed to other sections.

Also, metal tends to have residual elasticity, which may well again lead to deformation with a sharp weakening, so do not rush to loosen the jack after completing the straightening. To avoid repeated deformation, at the end of the work, pull out the jack for at least one or two clicks. This will transfer the elasticity of the material, formed due to deformation, and only after that you can safely remove the jack.

Often there is a case when, for no apparent reason, a slight swelling outward forms on the wing of a car, visible to the naked eye. If you lightly press on such a formation with your hand, then the swelling will disappear with its characteristic click, similar to a clapperboard. However, any kind of push to the place of the irregularity of the wing, and the swelling will reappear, such cases can appear indefinitely. A similar defect appears due to the fact that the metal has stretched, and something like an excess has formed, which has nowhere to go except to bend in this way.

Understanding the cause of the swelling, we can find a solution to the problem, that is, we need to remove the excess metal by stretching the wing. Again, you need to use a decorative line. It is also necessary to wrap the rail with a rag and rest it against the embossed line of the body. Hammer this rail from below with a hammer so that the wing is pulled under the line, a couple of blows will be enough to remove the swelling and give the wing its former elasticity and rigidity.

Performing any kind of straightening work, you will definitely have to use lifting devices. When using them, it is important to remember the safety rules:

1. Never leave the car raised on a jack; you need to use sufficiently strong supports to ensure the reliability of the structure. Having installed the jack on the hood of the body elements, you should make sure of its stability and the absence of sliding of the jack;
2. You only need to use a tool that is serviceable and suitable for work. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the hammer head. The very same handle of the hammer must be without different types of chips, burrs and cracks, and it must also be perfectly smooth;
3. When performing any work, you must wear gloves or ordinary cotton gloves to protect your hands.

In all previous versions of deformation, wing repair was practically not used, only cases were considered when it was possible to stretch the wing using a jack and slightly correct the metal at the base of the ribs. It is worth remembering that the blows sometimes do not come to the end part of the wing, but directly from the side, forming a clear dent. Such damage cannot be repaired using only pulling, you will need to use straightening. The essence of the work performed is to get rid of the resulting elongations and "excess" metal. It is necessary to disperse the surplus evenly into a large number of small bulges, and the more there are, and also the smaller they are, the better the job will be done.

It is worth knowing that for the correct elimination of such formations, straightening must start from the edge of the dent and continue to move along it, using the principle of a narrowing spiral, ending everything in the very center.

First of all, you need to establish the place where the dent ends. In order to do this, it is necessary to carry out the formation of a straightening file crosswise, then using a hammer with a pointed beak and special supports, begin to knock the wing out. When the metal becomes taut, it is time to level the dent itself, in order to do this, we need a straightening "saw".You should not be afraid to pierce the metal, despite its thickness of 0.5 mm, it is quite difficult to completely remove such a layer.

After completing all the work, you need to start leveling the surface itself, and for this it is worth using a putty. After processing with sandpaper, it will become visible exactly where and in what quantity it is necessary to apply the putty. The procedure is as follows:

• The hardened first layer, sand with the use of sandpaper no. 120;
• Then use paper # 220 for sanding the next layer;
• The final, for the removal of visible defects, will be # 360;
• And the final one for leveling the surface from small scratches will be No. 600.

Now minor defects and dents in the front fenders of your car can be corrected on your own, it is also worth knowing that repairing and painting the rear fender is exactly the same as the procedure applied to the front fenders. This knowledge will help you troubleshoot such problems yourself.

This material will help you learn more about how to repair a car and remove corrosion from it yourself.

We see what a simple spray paint application to an improperly prepared surface can lead to. After a while, such painting will manifest itself in all the subtleties. The type of car, in this case, will be far from bright.

Usually, corrosion begins to manifest itself at the points of contact between parts. It seems that in our case everything was covered with soil, but all the same, corrosion penetrated right through. This confirms that the surface preparation technology has not been fully followed. At the same time, you can immediately see the difference in the places where they were covered with epoxy primer, there is no rust.

In those places where there are holes, for example, as in our case, on the arches above the wheels, there is no point in cleaning or trying to restore them. Such parts just need to be replaced. If you want to digest something, then you need to do it in a place that has suffered the least from corrosion.

It will be interesting to consider corrosion in detail. This is how the local place of its manifestation on the wing looks like. A defect arose in the center, which became the place from which this surprise began to grow for every motorist. We have opened such a place and will try to figure out what's inside. You can see a lot of sand, salt and other substances. It's amazing how through such a small hole, the defect we talked about above, so much dirt gets inside.

Let's also try to consider another defect in a higher resolution, which in our case is a scratch. You can see that sand has already started to get under the varnish and under the ground. In fact, the scratch looks small, but we saw that the very same corrosion has already begun to appear in it.

Why do we consider in such detail the causes of occurrence and the defect itself in the form of corrosion? This is, in fact, quite an interesting question, because before starting work, you need to understand what corrosion is and then it will be better for us to understand how to deal with it. The main reason for its occurrence is salt and sand, which got inside this center and which retain moisture.

We have removed a wing that will help us explain the causes of corrosion. On the wing, we see corrosion at the point of contact with another part. Often its spread is due to the usual laziness to remove and process the wing. The second option is that the wing can still be removed, treated with soil, covered with paint, like the work has been done.

But after a month or two, corrosion begins to appear again. In this case, the assumption arises that either the materials were summed up, or the work was performed poorly. But in fact, the reason is different: you can see that corrosion begins to show through from the inside.

And now you can imagine, if we looked in an enlarged view of one small bubble and saw how much dirt there was in it, then in the place where there is constant sandblasting from the wheels (you can even see how much sand was in the wing), how much dirt can accumulate there. Therefore, before starting to process the front part of the wing, it is always necessary to first of all be sure to process the source of corrosion.

P When tuning a car, bumpers are usually made of fiberglass and you always need to be prepared for the fact that at some point they will have to be repaired. The specifics of the repair of such bumpers, in contrast to the factory ones, which are made of polypropylene, are somewhat different. In this article, we will show you how to properly repair fiberglass bumpers.

As an example, the front tuning body kit of a minibus was taken, which was damaged as a result of a collision with an obstacle, which led to the loss of a large fragment of the lower shelf, as well as to its rupture.

Before removing the bumper from the car, we recommend that you measure the distance between its corners in order to maintain this dimension during the repair process.

01. Dismantle the bumper from the car. We install it on the floor in the workshop. In the place of the gap, the bumper sagged due to a violation of its original geometric shape. In addition, part of the shelf is missing, so it is not possible to simply connect the torn edges. It is necessary to paste in the missing fragment.

02. The most unpleasant thing that can happen to a fiberglass bumper when hitting an obstacle is a network of small cracks in its rather large area. These cracks indicate tearing of the fiberglass inside the bumper material, which can lead to a rather difficult and time-consuming repair. But, in this case, the presence of small paint cracks near the edges of the rupture was not detected.

03. There is no point in combining the torn edges without preliminary processing, since the fiberglass forms protruding shaggy edges at the break.
04. To process the edges of the torn parts of the bumper, we use an angle grinder with a flap disc mounted on it. In the absence of such, we clean it with coarse-grained sandpaper by hand.

05. Having finished the processing of the edges, we align the edges of the gap, setting the bumper on a flat surface, adjusting it to the size we have.

06. We turn directly to the repair of the fiberglass bumper, starting from the inside. Apply polyester resin to the cleaned surface along the crack. Apply the resin in such a way that it covers the crack itself and the surface around it at a distance of 5-10 centimeters.
07. Place pieces of thin glass mat (grade 300) on the resin. There can be several layers. The fact is that by repairing the inner surface, we restore the original shape of the bumper for the subsequent repair of the outer side.

08. Cracks are repaired and other defects are repaired on the outside of the bumper. In the place of the rupture, delamination, chips, cracks not only of fiberglass, but also of paint are clearly visible. Some “craftsmen” simply putty the defective spots, but very soon the results of such “work” appear on the paint layer.
09. In order for the crack to disappear completely, we clean the bumper material hollow ("mustache") towards the crack, starting from the places where the fiberglass chips and paint cracks end, but no closer than 5 centimeters from the crack.

10. We grind the old fiberglass until the new layer we have laid on the inside appears through the crack. In this case, a groove with gentle edges should be formed on the outer surface of the bumper.

11. We coat the groove with polyester resin and lay the glass mat of grade 300, gluing the edges of the crack. We make just enough layers so that the latter coincides with the surface of the bumper.

12. After the fiberglass has hardened, we process it with sandpaper.For this, it is better to use a belt sander. Firstly, it is not so dusty in comparison with the "grinder" with a petal disc, and secondly, we immediately get a flat surface.

13. After rough processing with P40 sandpaper, fix the patch with a sanding bar no larger than P80.

14. After finishing sanding the patch, apply a layer of universal polyester putty on it.

15. When the shape of the bumper is fully restored, proceed to repair the rest of the damage. In this case, we observe breaks in the corners, without visible deformation of the bumper itself. Here we start the renovation immediately from the outside.
16. We clean the crack "on the mustache". We try to remove delaminated fiberglass as much as possible, so that in future repairs the fiberglass patch can provide the corner with sufficient strength.

17. Reconstruction of the shape of the corners is carried out using glass mat no thicker than grade 300 (thicker glass mat has greater elasticity and falls on the corners with bubbles), and the polyester resin is thickened with Aerosil. By the way, Aerosil can be purchased in the same place as polyester resin and glass mat.
18. The patch made of fiberglass is leveled with P40 emery paper, while the restored part takes on a uniform shape with the bumper, since the new fiberglass completely hides the cracks. Before applying the putty, the restored part must be sanded with sandpaper no larger than P80, since scratches after a larger one can appear on the paint and through the putty.

19. The corners need to be strengthened from the inside as well. At the same time, we grind the old fiberglass almost to a new patch.
20. To reinforce the corner, place two to four layers of 300 grade glass mat.

21. So, fiberglass bumper repair finished. It remains only to paint and install in place.

The presence of a minimal defect on the surface of a vehicle wing may indicate the need to take measures to eliminate it. The cost of this type of work in a car service will depend on a number of factors. In any case, solving the problem yourself will be much cheaper. To align the wing of a car on your own, it is enough to have the simplest tools at hand and know the technology of work.

To start aligning the dent that appears, you must first remove the car wheel from the side of the damaged fender. This will help somewhat facilitate further work.

Also at this stage, you should take care of preparing the tools that may be needed in this case. These include:

• jack;
• hammer;
• wooden lath;
• sandpaper;
• primer mixture;
• brush;
• putty;
• auto enamel.

After that, you can proceed to the direct resolution of the problem posed.

To carry out the repair, you need to position the removed wing on a wooden strip and try to level the dent from the inside. This can be done with your hands or by using a hammer.

The final straightening should be done as carefully as possible. Do not stretch the metal too much, as this could result in through holes. Subsequently, electric welding will be required to eliminate them. When performing repair work, it is necessary to methodically eliminate large defects, minimizing them by your own actions. At the final stage, the surface should be sanded with sandpaper.

After sanding, if necessary, cover the surface with a layer of putty. The material is applied only in those places where it was not possible to completely eliminate the defects mechanically.

After that, a primer layer is applied so that the next painting work is not associated with great difficulties. The primer mixture is applied in several layers and sanded using sandpaper.

Before proceeding to the final stage of work - painting, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of dust. At the end of the repair, the damaged wing is covered with a layer of paint. For these purposes, ordinary car enamel is ideal. The final result of the work done can pleasantly surprise anyone.

There is no need to talk about the unreliability of a plastic bumper - drivers know how this part of the car is susceptible to damage. Careless movement, light blow - and he cracked, not to mention scratches, chips and other trifles. Therefore, many drivers have the question of how to repair the bumper with their own hands. A competently made repair of a plastic bumper with your own hands is much more profitable than the services of a car service, first of all, in terms of financial costs. Even home renovation allows you to do everything conscientiously and as you see fit.

Rebuilding the bumper is not a very difficult job. Here it is important to know some of the subtleties that allow you to do plastic repair yourself, and have the skills to handle the tool. Before repairing a plastic bumper, it must be properly prepared. Do-it-yourself bumper repair, putty and painting require preliminary procedures.

Let's see what operations are needed before repairing a plastic bumper:

• restoration or tuning of the bumper begins with dismantling - do-it-yourself repairs are more convenient if the product is removed from the car;
• carefully clean off dirt and thoroughly wash the surface - it must be clean and dry. Do-it-yourself plastic repair requires this operation;
• determine what it is made of. Do-it-yourself plastic repair may differ depending on what material you have to work with;
• in areas where the bumper will be restored, the paintwork must be removed. Before you repair the damage yourself, you will have to thoroughly clean and degrease the space around;
• Before repairing the crack, drill through holes at the ends to prevent further spreading;
• the crack has joint edges - before sealing it, a groove is made along the joints for filling with composite.

After all of the above is done, you can start repairing the plastic bumper with your own hands.

When restoring a bumper with your own hands, you need to adhere to some nuances. They are repaired based on whether it is thermoactive or thermosetting - before you repair the product yourself, it is important to find out.

Thermosetting plastics

You can repair a thermosetting plastic body kit with a hair dryer or welding. Welding helps to make high-quality plastic repair with your own hands, removing all cracks and breaks. Do-it-yourself repairs at home are quite simple to perform if we are dealing with a thermoactive material.

Do-it-yourself plastic bumper restoration is more difficult if the work is done with thermosetting material. In this case, welding will not help - the thermosetting structure does not allow the product to melt. Do-it-yourself plastic repair is then performed using reinforcement and gluing.

Soldering the bumper

Do-it-yourself plastic restoration is performed using a conventional electric soldering iron, if we are talking about a thermoactive structure. After the part has been prepared in the way described above, you need to work according to the following algorithm:

• connect the edges of the crack as tightly as possible and start soldering from the inside - act carefully, checking how the plastic reacts to temperature;
• use staples from a furniture stapler as reinforcing elements - implant them on the back side at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other;
• using a soldering iron, immerse the staples into the part and make sure that the tips do not show up on the front part. The staples are prone to corrosion, so they need to be hidden in plastic;
• make a neat seam on the front;
• using a machine with an abrasive wheel, grind the seam, gradually changing the abrasive with a decrease in the grain size;
• use putties for plastic if sanding does not give a flat surface;
• cover the part with a primer and paint after drying.