In detail: DIY repair of plastic fuel pipes from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The fuel pipe is one of the main parts of the fuel system of a diesel engine, and not only a diesel one. But since we are still using diesel in our work, then we will talk about this pipe. The stable operation of the diesel engine also depends on its integrity (in particular).
Many may ask: "Why plastic?" In principle, everything is simple, before all pipes, and not only fuel ones, were made copper at best, metal at worst. With the advent of plastic and metal-plastic (in everyday life) into our lives, automakers have also pushed all possible and not possible car systems into plastic.
Well, as I understand it from my small bell tower, this is done for several reasons. Reducing the cost, reducing the weight, increasing the service life, etc., but for me there is one more, and in my opinion, the most important for the driver - PRACTICALITY and convenience, and not only in operation, but also in maintenance and repair.
Remember how before? Fuel pipe burst or frayed, what should I do? You shoot and run to look for a Man who walks the streets and shouts: “I'm pudding, I'm soldering. ”(Joke) In short, I ran to a blacksmith or a welder, depending on where I worked, and with the help of his devices, skills, skills, and sometimes some mother (iron pipes rotten shamelessly) gave me a whole.
Of course, immediately run to the car and set. But after half an hour, you realize that the fuel system is again airy or fuel is on the street, and again all the running around in a new circle, and if there is no warm box, the frost outside is 20 degrees. In short, it was all, to put it mildly, not very good.
Video (click to play). |
Pros and cons of plastic
I touched on a little history, but now it's about plastic pipes. For me, it's even a very convenient and practical thing. If anyone disagrees, justify in the comments, maybe you can convince me otherwise, although ...
When used in the brake system, a plastic tube, in principle, has one and a very big drawback - it cannot be heated with an open fire, I think it is clear why and when. But we will probably talk about this in a separate article about the maintenance of modern pneumatic brake systems. But there is also one plus for me, its repair is carried out in a matter of minutes and without removing it from the car using a knife (hacksaw) and fitting.
But the fact is that today we are talking about the fuel system, and as you understand, the fitting cannot be put here, since it uses rubber seals for the hermeticity of the system, which, moreover, do not have the properties of petrol-oil resistance. But for any one, a Russian person cannot have a whole bunch of CLINES.
The plastic tube has run out
So it was with me. It's 1500 km to the house outside the boron minus 34, and into the salon the stove pulls the solarium evaporating from the hot engine. Just tin! After some deliberation, I turn off the engine and in the cold. I raise the cab (Eurik with a YaMZ engine) and see that the fuel pipe from the low-pressure fuel pump to the fine filter has rubbed against a plastic clamp and fuel is dripping into the collapse.
The whole horror for me was that whatever I took in my hands drenched with diesel fuel instantly froze to my fingers. Therefore, the decision must have come instantly: "I put the fitting from the air, and there it will be enough." Fortunately, there is a whole package of all accessories and fittings in the car and for any size.
As a result, I was able to drive more than 2000 kilometers and find myself in my warm box, and most importantly, with no frostbitten limbs.After spending a whole day looking for the original fuel pipe, I decided to go to the hydraulics and make a rubber hose with the fittings I needed.
Agree that with a copper and certainly with a metal tube, this trick, if it did, would not last long. And here, literally in a few minutes, the car was in almost good condition and I was almost not injured. Yes, I completely forgot, when I rented it at home, as soon as I moved the fitting, it fell apart. Therefore, I think that they are not suitable for fuel, but if you really need it, then you can.
A plastic fuel pipe is still not only an achievement of scientific and technological progress, but also a very convenient and practical thing in the device of a modern car. Finally, car manufacturers, installing plastic fuel pipes, began to think not only about their own benefits, but also about us, the drivers.
How to pull the quick release plastic fuel pipe?
It is necessary to make such a connecting fuel line, but I cannot pull the pipe onto the quick-release fitting, I warmed it with an industrial hairdryer, but the tube only begins to gather and melt into an accordion, but does not expand in any way, I tried boiling water - not an option at all, maybe someone faced such a problem ?
Cut the end of the pipe lengthwise by 1-2 cm so that the petals come out, which can be captured
pliers.
Fitting in yews. Work with an assistant. The assistant warms up the pipe with a hairdryer, you use pliers
by the petals you pull it onto the union. In this kind of work alone, the problem is
that if the pipe is already soft, then it does not put on - it bends into a polka dot. Here it is for the petals
to pull.
Put a “circular” nozzle on the hair dryer, which gives such a swirl that the pipe heats up evenly
from all sides. Set the temperature of the hair dryer to medium, because this plastic does not warm up well
and at high T, it will burn out on the outside, and inside it will be still cold.
Guys, the question is now !!
What is the third pipe, the one on the bottom, is it gasoline vapor ??
in the service they poured it for me, I went for a year, now there is also a crack, I will also do repairs))
What happens if you ride with a fool? (loss of power or something else, rough work of the engine.)
Hi, my fuel line is leaking (or whatever is correct there).
I walked around the forum, it was decided to repair (the price of new pipes is from 7.500 - a set)
1. We buy al. tubes from 2101-06 = issue price 135r
diameter as we have 8mm
2. We buy a fuel hose, inner diameter is also 8mm = 60r
Here's what happened, the hose swells slightly .. which is not very good !!
It was decided to replace it with a reinforced fuel hose = it costs about 500r (has not changed yet)
I want to note that the tube from 2101 is much stronger, the wall thickness is about 1mm !! on VAG about 0.3mm, bends and breaks with one go, you can't bend ours like that !!
Maybe someone will come in handy with my advice - to repair only with a reinforced hose.
The one in the photo has a thickness of about 3mm at the walls, and still inflates slightly.
Option 2 (almost final)
Looks "like from a factory"))
Now nothing is inflated !!
I made the pipes almost end-to-end, brought them close inside the hose and spread them slightly by 0.5 cm
Hose GOST 10362-76 (inside the hose is reinforced with nylon fibers, just like in VAG)
8 × 15 0.98MPa
9.8 bar (very large stock))
Option 3 (final)
3 factory collars were ordered (put it on - take it off)) numbers N 907 683 01
those that are now will be replaced (LIGHTHOUSE, IMHO quality !!)
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Vanya Stradivari Jan 26, 2011
Gazelle Euro-2 2007.
The tube of the plastic fuel line is frayed. It's expensive to buy a new one.
How to repair?
My friend, where is your plastic?
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Gazelle Euro-2 2007.
The tube of the plastic fuel line is frayed. It's expensive to buy a new one.
How to repair?
IMHO, plastic is useless to glue. Change to a steel tube or rubber hose.Or cut in the place where it was rubbed and connect with a hose.
I want to install a remote fuel pump, how to crash into plastic?
With a knife.
I have a plastic fuel line for the autonomous system and the joints pass through a rubber tube with clamps.
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My friend, where is your plastic?
Everywhere, my friend! I have a transitional model.
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I don't know ugh ugh ugh while everything is intact and there is no hint, I don’t touch them and they me too
I do not think that the connection with a hose with clamps will be reliable, you have to squeeze plastic, by the way, I also have a 2007 e-2 plastic fuel line
It all depends on the diameter. You can also pick up an insert from any metal. Or fuck this whole pipeline. True, I took the return pipe for about 700 rubles.
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I do not think that the connection with a hose with clamps will be reliable, you have to squeeze plastic, by the way, I also have a 2007 e-2 plastic fuel line
Then you can use a steel tube inside the plastic. Heat the plastic with a hair dryer and pull it over the tube. You can order the turners a connector for plastic, like a plumbing, a hedgehog. There are a lot of options.
Then you can use a steel tube inside the plastic. Heat the plastic with a hair dryer and pull it over the tube. You can order the turners a connector for plastic, like a plumbing, a hedgehog. There are a lot of options.
I'll try, maybe I'll find the truth of the type of plumbing fitting
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Gazelle Euro-2 2007.
The tube of the plastic fuel line is frayed. It's expensive to buy a new one.
How to repair?
Special connectors are on sale, the price is 50 rubles. On Maze I put on the brake air pipes. (This is their main purpose) I connected the fuel system from an additional tank. I drove for at least two years without problems.
Special connectors are on sale, the price is 50 rubles. On Maze I put on the brake air pipes. (This is their main purpose) I connected the fuel system from an additional tank. I drove for at least two years without problems.
+100 Very handy devices were often used when I was on the go, they are for this purpose and are intended to connect plastic pipes. There are other options up to special threaded fittings f. _d.12.jpg to? url = L_d6.jpg
At a glance, so there are a lot of options!
Hello everyone, the question is really a little off topic, but also about the gas line, I have such a question: How do you guys remove the fuel filter, or rather with the help of what, otherwise when I changed it so-so I almost broke all my fingers, I really didn't use pliers press the latches, as if with a screwdriver pressed and barely removed, though he himself did not understand how it turned out what kind of device is there?
I just squeeze my fingers, and there were no problems.
I just squeeze my fingers, and there were no problems.
You are probably bending horseshoes with your hands, damn it, but where do we go to the pianists? I asked a couple of people, so they also suffer in different ways.
Post has been editedserg21: 28 January 2011 - 18:44
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You are probably bending horseshoes with your hands, damn it, but where do we go to the pianists? I asked a couple of people, so they also suffer in different ways.
in any euro store, air hose connections are sold (such as scrubbers)
it is possible to use a simple oxygen hose, holds a pressure up to 10 Atm.
benzo oil resistant d6-d8
The gas tank, like other elements of the car's fuel line, wears out and breaks down during operation. The main problem that car owners face is fuel tank leakage. Despite the different reasons for this breakdown, you can restore the capacity with your own hands.
On most vehicles, the gas tank is located at the rear (right, left, under the rear seat). This design feature is due to the safety for passengers and the driver. In addition, vehicle handling is improved.However, the rear part of the body is quite often exposed to external damage during the operation of the car, as a result of which the gas tank also suffers.
The most common cause of cracks is mechanical stress, which leads to tank holes. Considering the quality of Russian roads, sometimes even a slight blow is enough, which will lead to the formation of a hole.
Metal corrosion, which is an inevitable process, is also considered to be a significant cause of damage. The more mileage a car has, the higher the likelihood of this kind of problem. Power system malfunctions are less common. Since a rarefied pressure is created in the middle of the tank as fuel is consumed, this affects the condition of its walls. During operation, small cracks may appear on them, as a result of the increase of which a leak occurs. This situation indicates the need to repair the gas tank.
Corrosion is one of the causes of damage to the gas tank.
The appearance of a crack, hole or any other type of damage to the gas tank is inherent not only in domestically produced cars, but also in foreign cars. When the tightness of the tank is broken, it is necessary to fix the problem as soon as possible. Operating a vehicle with such a malfunction can lead to disastrous consequences, and the danger threatens not only those in the car, but also those around. Due to the fact that the fuel tank is a simple structure, it will not be difficult to restore the tightness. However, much depends on the degree of damage and the appropriateness of such an event. Since gas tanks are made of different materials, different repair methods are used.
In order for the repair of the gas tank to be not only competent, but also safe, certain rules must be followed. They boil down to the fact that all additional equipment will need to be dismantled, the fuel must be drained and the container must be flushed.
When repairing a cracked gas tank, it is necessary to drain the fuel, dismantle the container and wash it
Dismantling the gas tank involves removing the hatch, cable, neck, fuel gauge and pump. The list of certain elements, as well as the process of their dismantling, depends on the specific vehicle.
Of the tools you may need:
- pliers;
- side cutters;
- screwdriver;
- key or head of the corresponding dimension.
Dismantling sequence:
-
First, the remaining fuel is drained. For this, a special hole in the lower part is provided in the design of the tank. To prevent fuel spilling on the ground, a container is prepared in advance. If there is no plug, the gasoline can be drained using a hose and a suction bulb.
Before removing the gas tank, you must drain the remaining fuel
After the fuel is drained from the tank, remove the connector with the fuel sensor wires, as well as the power supply to the fuel pump
One of the stages of dismantling the gas tank is the removal of the fuel hoses, for which the fastening of the clamps is loosened
To dismantle the tank fasteners, unscrew the nuts securing the clamps of the fuel tank
To remove the neck of the gas tank from the seal, you will need to remove the plug
When nothing interferes with dismantling the tank, it is removed from the car
After the fuel is drained from the tank, it will be necessary to clean it from contamination, for example, by washing it under running water using detergents. After drying the tank, it is necessary to clearly identify the places of future work and understand whether there is a need to dismantle it or whether restoration is possible directly on site. Is it possible to repair a gas tank without draining the fuel? You need to understand that it is problematic to do the job efficiently, even with the slightest leak. When all the preparatory moments are resolved, they proceed directly to the repair procedure.
To reveal the extent of damage, the container must be washed and dried.
Depending on the selected repair method, the list of tools and materials used will differ. In general, you will need the following:
- tire pump for compressed air supply;
- a hose connected to a hot water supply;
- special washing liquids;
- petrol;
- drill;
- bolts and nuts;
- file;
- degreaser;
- sandpaper;
- ground paint.
Brazing is one of the most common ways to seal cracks in a metal fuel tank. For the procedure, you will need a soldering iron with a power of more than 200 W, soldering acid and tin. Leave the neck of the tank open during operation. Let's start recovery:
- Determine the location of the leak.
- If any deformations were found, align them.
- We thoroughly clean and degrease the soldering point, for which you can use any agent (acetone, solvent, gasoline).
Before soldering, the damaged area is cleaned to bare metal.
To apply tin, the damaged area must be heated
For large cracks, the tin must be deposited in several layers.
After the completion of soldering, the area is cleaned of rosin with a solvent
On old gas tanks, in addition to eliminating the crack, it is appropriate to clean them from corrosion, and then apply primer and paint.
To carry out welding work with a fuel tank inside, you will need to fill in water, in order to avoid ignition of gasoline vapors. The place of welding is cleaned to pure metal, removing corrosion with a wire nozzle on a grinder or drill. If a large area is damaged, it is cut out, a patch of metal of the same thickness is applied, and then scalded. After cooling, the container is covered with soil and painted.
When repairing a crack in a fuel tank by cold welding, perform the same preparatory measures as when brazing (fuel draining, washing, drying, stripping). If the damage is in an accessible place, the container may not be removed from the car. When working with cold welding, care must be taken to protect the hands, i.e. use rubber gloves. Then cut off the required amount of the composition and knead it well in your hands. As a result of the chemical process, the agent will begin to soften. At this point, it must be applied to the damaged area with great effort, and then leveled.
One of the ways to repair a gas tank is to use cold welding.
For greater reliability, a piece of fabric is applied over the first layer, then a second layer is applied. Depending on the type of cold weld, it may be necessary to dilute it with different agents. In this case, the kneading procedure is recommended to be performed in a metal container.
Repair with epoxy resin is resorted to when it is not possible to carry out a full restoration by soldering or welding. All epoxy components are mixed according to the instructions. The damaged area of the gas tank is well cleaned and a layer of resin is applied to it, after which it is covered with a piece of fiberglass or a clean rag soaked in the same substance. Several such layers are applied. When the patches are dry, you can refill the gas tank and keep driving. It should be borne in mind that epoxy, as well as cold welding, in comparison with metal, have an excellent coefficient of expansion and low bending strength. This suggests that repairing the fuel tank with such materials is a temporary measure.
Many modern cars are equipped with plastic gas tanks, which is due to a number of advantages of the material compared to metal:
- weight;
- corrosion resistance;
- safety;
- production cost.
However, plastic also has negative aspects. Since it lends itself well to deformation: any change in pressure in the container leads to its contraction and expansion. As a result, cracks or fractures appear on the tank at mating points, for example, near the neck. As soon as a leak has been detected in the area of the fuel tank, vehicle operation should be stopped. The reservoir must be removed before repair and thoroughly rinsed. In this case, you can accurately determine the location and extent of damage, and then take appropriate measures to eliminate the problem. Quite often, longitudinal cracks appear on the container, or the weld seam, which provides the connection of the elements of the fuel system, breaks down. This is due, as a rule, to external mechanical influences.
Preparatory activities consist of several sequential stages:
-
The fuel is drained through a special hole or neck.
The remaining fuel from the tank is drained through a special hole at the bottom of the container
To repair the gas tank, the part is removed from the car: depending on the brand, the actions may differ slightly
One of the stages before restoring the fuel tank is washing
The list of tools and materials will depend on the degree of damage and the method of restoration. When repairing, you may need:
- powerful soldering iron (250 W);
- plastic of the same type as the material of the tank;
- glue "Moment";
- cold welding;
- aluminum rivet;
- self-tapping screw.
From adhesives for repairing a fuel tank, you can use Moment glue or its analogues. To seal the crack, you will need a thick, but soft cloth that is soaked in glue. Then the patch is pressed onto the sand-cleaned and degreased area, and held for a while. After the glue dries, a layer of nitro paint is applied. It should be borne in mind that this kind of repair is a temporary measure. It is worth resorting to it only for minor damage.
Epoxy can also be used as an adhesive. The substance is applied according to the same technology as when repairing a metal tank. The surface must be well cleaned, degreased and dried. When gluing the last layer, it is necessary to use a plasticizer, which is suitable for aluminum powder.
Restoring a gas tank by soldering is one of the most common and reliable repair methods. It is he who is used for serious damage to the container. In addition to a powerful soldering iron, you will need a metal mesh with small cells, which is melted into the damaged area by heating. In addition, the repair can be performed in a slightly different way: a piece of plastic corresponding to the type of container material is soldered onto the damaged area with a soldering iron.
A plastic gas tank can be sealed, for which the boundaries of damage are melted, a metal mesh with small cells is used, or a piece of the same plastic is used
Minor damage can be repaired by cold welding. For repairs, you will need to clean the problem area with sandpaper, degrease it and dry it. Knead the glue before applying, then press it against the repair site and smooth it evenly. To achieve the best effect, it is recommended to apply a piece of fabric on the first layer, and then add another layer of adhesive. On some vehicles with a soft plastic fuel tank, cold welding will be problematic due to poor material adhesion. In this case, it is better to resort to soldering.
With a small diameter of the hole for repair, you can use a self-tapping screw with a wide head. It is advisable to put a rubber gasket under it for a better seal. In addition to the self-tapping screw, the hole in the tank can be sealed with an aluminum rivet of a suitable diameter using a special tool. These methods allow you to repair the gas tank without removing it from the car, if the damage is in an accessible place.
The gas tank can be repaired with a self-tapping screw or aluminum rivet
After completing repair work on the gas tank, a tightness test is required. To do this, it is necessary to create a pressure of about 7-15 kPa in the tank, having previously plugged all the holes for the hoses and leaving only one for the pump. After that, soapy water is applied to the container.The absence of bubbles indicates a successful repair and no leaks. If it is possible to immerse the tank completely in water, then the tightness is also checked in this way. However, in this case, you will have to make a lot of effort, because it is not so easy to completely lower the tank under water.
You can restore a gas tank in different ways, the choice of a specific one depends on the nature of the damage and its extent. The repair does not require a lot of experience and special equipment. With the help of a tool that almost every motorist has, the restoration of the tank is possible in a garage. The main thing is to follow the rules and follow the algorithm exactly.
The lower branch pipe of the Rocky 2.8 TD cooling system.
Who has any thoughts on how to restore it.
It just didn't work to seal it up, vulcanize it like a camera. comes off. apparently doing something wrong.
In St. Petersburg, we don't have Nikhren on Rocky on showdowns.
I didn't think about silicone glue. I tried the sealant - but it does not hold.
In the bursting pipe. there is a gap just at the curved place.
From something our brand. nifiga. only wild composition, which now stands, spliced in two places.
The original is very long and cunning.
And one more of the minuses - they are STRAIGHT and any bend "folds" them in the direction of the bend, reducing the permeability.
P.S.
Now I am looking for this silicone glue. Maybe someone will tell you the brand better?
I saw on TV in the Discovery program how pipes are made of “bandages” and silicone. beauty. You just need to find this composition.
As it is sickly in Neta. that's just what I dug.
Hands out of your ass because they grow.
I always admired people who could glue body panels with epoxy by making plaster copies of models.
Don't believe me, here's a photo of the sky from my window 🙂
Probably lucky.
They put double-glazed windows on me all day. just finished. The old frames were taken out, the new ones were stuck in. 4 triple windows.
So it's nice that even the sun is outside all day long.
Tomorrow, the Loggia will be installed, almost the same amount. direct beauty there (skirting boards, facing)
And then I still have to insulate and sheathe the loggia.
In general, we came up with a job.
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9 years on the site
user # 180554
In general, I found the pipe on parsing. How to plant it? in boiling water, it does not soften, but melts from fire. Mot in what acid you need to dip. help plizzzzzzzz, the car is urgently needed
in general, such a problem. I live in Soligorsk. In the Fiat Marea car, I took out a gasoline pump from the tank to clean the mesh. So there are 3 tubes to the lid of all these insides. 2 quick-release and one unscrews. So one of the quick couplings broke
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secsot777 »December 26th, 2010, 10:58
Dedraman »December 27th, 2010, 2:01 am
secsot777 »December 28th, 2010, 10:23 am
Igoor13 »January 1st, 2011, 2:35 am
lalabeda "January 1st, 2011, 9:41 am
Jacky_75 »January 1st, 2011, 11:25 am
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_ANTI_ »February 22nd, 2012, 9:30 am
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AliBaba »February 26th, 2012, 9:28
_ANTI_ »February 26th, 2012, 9:30 am
Thanks, I'll try.
here also BelPRomImpex was advised to me on ankylosing spondylitis.
so I think we'll find a sample.
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KASUMI - Feel the true spice!
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the tube of the fifth cylinder from the injection pump burst. in my village you can’t find it, and in the existences it’s not. is it possible how to repair, flare, flare. can come up from something? scrapping right in a circle in front of the tapered tip, half the diameter. I want to try to drill a tapered tip and re-solder it on the tube, but without experienced advice, somehow dumb.
THANKS IN ADVANCE for the advice comrades.
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the tube of the fifth cylinder from the injection pump burst. in my village you can’t find it, and in the existences it’s not. is it possible how to repair, flare, flare. can come up from something? scrapping right in a circle in front of the tapered tip, half the diameter. I want to try to drill a tapered tip and re-solder it on the tube, but without experienced advice, somehow dumb.
THANKS IN ADVANCE for the advice comrades.
if the length of the tube allows, why not try it - the main thing is to flare it well.
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Look from a truck or a tractor. I've read somewhere that some are suitable, from T-40, or from something else.
Post has been edited74rus: 11 July 2011 - 22:47
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Look from a truck or a tractor. I've read somewhere that some are suitable, from T-40, or from something else.
Well, yes, I also read that the injectors fit from the T-40 to some kind of diesel, which means, in principle, the pipe should fit))) I do not know the same pipes from all diesel models. in terms of the diameter and size of the landing head and fitting.
thanks comrade!
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if the length of the tube allows, why not try it - the main thing is to flare it well.
in the sense of drilling out this cone and re-soldering it on the tube. but if you just solder the lump on the tube and give the shape of a normal seat? it will not withstand your assumptions.
Thank you
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We had something similar on the 190th, on the bend. They just soldered a lump on top in the garage. It turned out ugly, but until they found another pipe, I went. You can do this, and ask the guys about the pipe itself here on the site, maybe someone else has unnecessary and healthy used in the storerooms of the homeland - they will send it. ))
in the sense of drilling out this cone and re-soldering it on the tube. but if you just solder the lump on the tube and give the shape of a normal seat? it will not withstand your assumptions.
Thank you
The collective farm will not last long .. Checked. Have Sheremet were. Ask.
Tighten the tubes not much... Almost by hand.
Be sure to attach to the standard holders! ... Otherwise, you will change constantly!
Good luck!
The collective farm will not last long .. Checked.
How to say. There are decent welders who can weld normally and will walk for a long time. Checked.
Look from trucks or a tractor. I read somewhere that some are suitable, from T-40
From the T-40 is not necessary. Even if the thread fits. To put it mildly, evaporate you to bend this tube. Azzy thickness.
Post has been edited Cannibal Mad on: 12 July 2011 - 16:08
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If you have a familiar turner, then you can carve a cone with a tube and weld it to your broken one. Has been proven to work for a while.
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How to say. There are decent welders who can weld normally and will walk for a long time. Checked.
From the T-40 is not necessary. Even if the thread fits. To put it mildly, evaporate you to bend this tube. Azzy thickness.
comrades, thank you very much for your advice.
As a result, I sealed the pipe with brass, rubbed it in and stopped flowing. I hope that's enough until I find something to replace! By the way, the tube from the T-40 will not fit, there is a pipe for 17, although it is a pity, in our collective farm town there is enough such equipment.
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tubes come from Tatra
a little thicker, on the threads and cones like a native
put it on the road, then replaced it with my own
now I’m rolling a new (straight) Tatra’s one in stock, so that I can reach any cylinder if there’s anything
Post has been edited by Demyan: 13 July 2011 - 16:04
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tubes come from Tatra
a little thicker, on the threads and cones like a native
put it on the road, then replaced it with my own
now I’m rolling a new (straight) Tatra’s one in stock, so that I can reach any cylinder if there’s anything
Tatra is also such a machine that you can't really find it))), although I think it's easier than a mercier! Thank you, buddy.
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Tatra is also such a machine that you can't really find it))), although I think it's easier than a mercier! Thank you, buddy.
I also broke off at 123. tube kamaz. native nuts. cut. tube. planted native nuts, carved a tube so that it could fit tightly. and scalded with gas. second year I go. 15 thousand passed from the Tatras did not come. the cone is not quite like that. and the hooks seem to be like mine.
- Say thanks
- I do not like
I also broke off at 123. tube kamaz. native nuts. cut. tube. planted native nuts, carved a tube so that it could fit tightly. and scalded with gas. second year I go. 15 thousand passed from the Tatras did not come. the cone is not quite like that. and the hooks seem to be like mine.
As far as I understood, the KAMAZ fittings came up. I have them at 14, but where you don't look everything at 17 (((damn
- Say thanks
- I do not like
I also broke off at 123. tube kamaz. native nuts. cut. tube. planted native nuts, carved a tube so that it could fit tightly. and scalded with gas. second year I go. 15 thousand passed from the Tatras did not come. the cone is not quite like that. and the hooks seem to be like mine.
As far as I understood, the KAMAZ fittings came up. I have them at 14, but where you don't look everything at 17 (((damn
- Say thanks
- I do not like
Tatra is also such a machine that you won't find much
well we have such
from the Tatra did not fit. the cone is not quite like that. and the hooks seem to be like mine.
put the tube from Tatra 815 (scoop) with V10 air, on the 602nd
I have them at 14, but where you don't look everything at 17 (((damn
Video (click to play). |
the main thing is that the thread and the height of the nut fit
here is a spare (for some reason rusted in two years in the trunk) nut 17, tightened moderately everything kept, then its got up, too, normally, without leaks
the photo is not a fountain, but the essence is visible