Do-it-yourself Indesit washing machine board repair

In detail: do-it-yourself indesit washing machine board repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Failures that occur when a washing machine malfunctions often “lead” the wizard to repair the control module. What elements fail on the board most often and how to fix the breakdown.

But let's first decide what electronic boards are there?

After the merger of Indesit with Hotpoint Ariston, the cars inside differ almost only in appearance.

1. EVO-I Board - Legacy Models Starting at W, WE, WD, WA

The software in the ROM of the processor is written once at the factory.

In case of breakdowns of the microcontroller, the board must be replaced.

Models differ in the type of "firmware" of the non-volatile memory chip (EEPROM), which can be flashed in case of failure.

2. EVO-II board with brushed motor

– Models Indesit wisl 103, wisl 83, wisl 82, wisl 102 and .
– Ariston AM series – AMD 129, AML 105, AML 129
– Hotpoint range – AQSL 109, AVL 105, AVD 127, AVD 129, AVL 100, AVL 95, AVSD 107, AVSL 105, AVSL 109, AVSL 129, AVSL 88, AVXL 109

3.EVO-II board with 3-phase motor

AQUALTIS:

1 NTC thermistor . 2 Capacitor. 3 Throttle. 4 Diode bridge. 5 Power supply. 6 engine control processor. (Q1-Q6) - IGBT transistors.

4. LOW END board - Indesit models starting with WIA, WISA, WIU

Also outdated 2005 models.

5. Arcadia module - modern Indesit, suitable for IWE, IWSE, IWDE, PWDE and PWC

1. Noise filter (power capacitor)
2.Heating element
3. Pompa (pump)
4.Hatch blocking device
5.Tachogenerator
6.Motor stator
7.Motor rotor
8.Main wash water intake solenoid valve
9.Solenoid prewash valve
10.NTC (temperature) sensor
13. Water level relay (pressure switch)
14. Linear water level switch

Video (click to play).

Now, in a nutshell, how to identify a faulty element on the board and replace it.

How to change the capacitor on the board:

The module capacitor of the washing machine plays the role of a stabilizer. Quite often it is installed on the block along with filters. Board capacitors are not repairable.

If the specified element burns out, you can simply change it. To do this, you need a similar element, as well as a blowtorch.

Quite often, capacitors are installed with several filters. As a result, the likelihood of re-burnout is greatly reduced. It is necessary to solder the capacitor to the block only to the positive electrode. A tester is used to test the resistance of a variable circuit.

Burnt out resistor (resistance):

All you need is a tester for this. On the resistors of the first order boards, the resistance is on average 8 ohms. In this case, the overload parameter should not exceed 2 A. Second-order board resistors are tested last.

Their overload indicator is from 3 to 5 A. In this case, the resistance depends on the frequency of the control module. If we consider a simple block, then its above parameter does not exceed 10 ohms. If the resistance is violated, the resistors of the boards can be soldered. When repairing the unit, experts recommend replacing the filters.

How to check the varistor on the board:

A varistor is a resistor that can change its resistance dramatically depending on the voltage. Having a non-linear characteristic, the varistor very quickly changes its resistance from hundreds of MΩ to tens of Ω.

This property is used to absorb short bursts of voltage, and with longer bursts, the varistor already explodes with a loud pop and a lot of smoke. The varistor is switched on in series with the fuse parallel to the mains voltage. With a short jump, the varistor absorbs the energy of the pulse, and with a long jump, the resistance of the varistor will become so small that the fuse will trip

The first step is to inspect the varistor on the board, looking for the presence of chips and cracks, blackening, traces of soot on it.

If external defects are detected, the varistor must be replaced, it can be removed from the main board for a while, the circuit will work without it. But in this case, it must be remembered that during a surge in voltage, other components of the circuit will fail and this will entail more expensive repairs.

To check the varistor, switch the tester to the maximum resistance measurement mode. In our case, the resistance of the varistor is much greater than the measurement range of the multimeter (reading 1).

Replacing the EEPROM memory chip:

Of course, you must first make sure that the actuators are working and ring them with a tester.

It is necessary to carefully examine the suspicious chip. Unless, of course, we count cases where the defect is already obvious (bursting housing, the presence of carbon deposits on the terminals, etc.), sometimes external damage can be minor.

Lack of power short circuit. Sometimes it may not be a complete short circuit, but simply a very low resistance of the power input (s) relative to “common”. In this case, you will need to have documentation for the microcircuit itself, or at least a switching circuit.

Functionality check. Everything is much more complicated here: many microcircuits have many outputs and a malfunction of at least one of them can lead to the inoperability of the entire device.

In the EVO I module, we replace the memory chip with a similar (93C86) serviceable one with firmware uploaded for the desired model.

If the module is EVO II, then we change the microcontroller here. Soldering it with a soldering iron is problematic, you will need a soldering station with a hot air gun.

Washing machine does not turn on:

EVO-II models wisl 103, wisl 83, wisl 82, wisl 102:

The power supply provides voltages of 5 V and 12 V to power the elements and assemblies that make up the controller.
The power supply includes a 22μF capacitor for 400v, an optocoupler of the SF46156-2 type, diode 1 and 2. HD6433662C01H microcircuit with firmware.

Arcadia Board - Models (WIN - WIB):

The SMPS produces 12V. It includes: a protective diode D1, an output rectifier and a filter D2 and C1, a pulse transformer, an integrated controller. The processor is powered by 3.3V.

Flashing of all control panel indicators, error code is not displayed:

Malfunction of the IP and its circuit. We check the presence of a voltage of 5 and 12 Volts, electrolytic capacitors, the microcontroller itself.

What to look for in a power source - swollen capacitors C17, C16, C20.

We select new capacitors, it is possible for 1000 microfarads. We take a soldering iron and change it.

Violation of the logic of execution of a given program:

The EEPROM chip needs to be flashed or replaced.

Error code F12:

Check the integrity of the connections between the connections of the power board and the indication board.

To convince, we take an oscilloscope and look at the signals on the buses between the modules there is ground, +5, +12, and two signal ones with identical bursts of pulses.

With an error F12 - at least flash the board, at least three alcohol, at least sushi, but 99.99% of the processor has died and it will need to be replaced.

Indesit washing machines gained popularity due to their low cost. But for the initial cheapness, you have to pay extra for repairs - the reliability of the brand is in question.

But you can repair the Indesit washing machine with your own hands and eliminate many breakdowns if you have basic knowledge of mechanics, electrical and electronics.

First of all, you need to determine what kind of breakdown occurred. An initial diagnosis will help decide whether it is possible to fix the problem yourself or still have to spend money on professional repairs.

The correct step would be to first familiarize yourself with the diagram of the device of the washing machine in order to have an idea where everything is.

Sometimes, to determine the cause of failure of household appliances, it is enough to read the instructions for use, which, among other things, contains recommendations for eliminating breakdowns.

The first step is to look at the display. If it is impossible to complete the specified process, the washing machine displays special codes on the display.

Error codes in the operation of the washer are given in the instructions that the manufacturer attaches to their own product without fail:

With the help of a very useful multimeter device, it is possible to check various contacts, wiring, sensors. The device will show if there is power everywhere.

Sometimes it is enough to listen to the sound emitted by the unit. When the washing machine starts to creak, make excessive noise, and sometimes rumble, then, most likely, there are problems in the bearings or the drum, the oil seal is damaged, the counterweight fasteners are weakened, and the shock absorbers are in poor condition.

Calling the wizard is the only correct solution when:

the warranty period has not expired - if the operating rules are observed, the repair will be free;
ominous smoke came out of the car.

In other cases, as they say, there are options. But always the first stage of repair begins with disconnecting faulty equipment from the mains. For negligence, electricity will surely and severely punish. An indispensable rule of a home master: do not act at random, use the instructions.

When the display does not report a malfunction, there are no leaks, smoke, burning smell, then usually the problem can be easily fixed:

If the home laundry does not turn on, you first need to check if the plug is firmly inserted into the socket. Sometimes the washing machine can shut down due to power surges. It is also necessary to make sure that the operating mode is correctly set on the control panel;
When water does not enter the tank, it is recommended to press the button responsible for turning the unit on and off again, make sure that the door is closed tightly. Sometimes the fault is insufficient pressure in the water supply, perhaps the tap was simply turned off, the hose was damaged. The reason may lie in the failure of both the program and the control system. Elimination occurs by repeated access to the "Start / Pause" button;
When the drain is not working first you need to check the filter - sometimes it is enough just to clean it.

And the source of a frightening roar can be any object (for example, a coin) that accidentally ended up in the drum.

This is a fairly frequent breakdown, although the declared service life of the heating element is 10-15 years. However, numerous washings in very hot and hard water, constant overloading of the tank, and low-grade detergents do an evil deed.

Over time, a kind of “fur coat” is formed on the heating element from various salts. From overheating, it fails, it is already impossible to restore it. A heater malfunction is indicated by a cold hatch when the washing mode is on and, of course, linen that has not been washed in cold water.

Replacing a damaged part is quite simple: the manufacturers placed the heating element so that it is easy to get to it by opening the back cover of the case. The only inconvenience is that the car must be disconnected from all communications in order to turn it to the right side for repair. The heating element is placed under the drum pulley. When disconnecting and reinserting the wiring board, one should not forget about care.

A minimum of tools is required: a fairly flat and curly screwdriver, a wrench with a head. You will also need a multimeter or tester to check the heating element. It is most reasonable to buy a new heater original Italian.

Disconnect the unit from all communications.
Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the cover.
Next, under the tank, you need to find the contacts of the heating element and attach the multimeter probes to them. Normal resistance is 25-35 ohms, other indicators indicate a malfunction.
Next operation: disconnecting all wires with terminals, fixing their position in memory.
Then the nut is unscrewed on the bolt, the end of which is located in the center of the heater base.
In order for the bolt to go into the hole, it should be gently tapped on it.
Push the base of the heating element towards you, picking it up with a flat screwdriver.
Rearrange the temperature sensor from the damaged part to a new heating element.
Clear the seat for the electric heater from the formed debris.
Put the new heating element in its intended place, fasten it with a bolt.

Then it remains to return the wires to their previous position, close the back cover of the machine and restore the connection to the communications.

It's also a fairly common problem. The pump is a weak spot in automatic washing machines. In addition to blockage, when it is enough to clean the hose and filter, the impeller can jam. It is located behind the drain filter, which should be unscrewed and removed.

To save the impeller, you need to try for rotation. It should not be too light: in the normal state, the impeller rotates with certain delays due to the magnet in the coil. Sometimes threads, hair, laces and other similar debris wrap around the impeller so much that they even block it. All these obstacles must be removed.

It happens that the plastic case turned out to be deformed and began to clamp the blades. When there is no possibility of replacement, the blades must be cut with a knife by no more than 2 mm, and the washer can still be used.

If after this the work is not restored, then the breakdown is more significant and requires a detailed inspection - the pump will have to be disassembled. The machine is laid on its side, you unscrew the screws securing the pump to the body, disconnect the electrical wires and 2 hoses.

Hoses are cleaned if necessary. The tester checks the motor windings to eliminate the possibility of a break. The usual resistance value here is 150-300 ohms.

Without relying on memory, it is worth noting the orientation of the pump relative to the engine. Then the pump motor is disconnected from the housing, the rotor is removed from the stator. Often inside everything turns out to be clogged with dirt that interferes with the rotation of the rotor. In such cases, thorough flushing is necessary.

The bearing of the rotor axis is lubricated with lithol, the stuffing box is corrected. Subsequent assembly is carried out using a sealant so that no leaks occur.

If you follow the instructions for caring for your washing machine and clean the drain hose every 6 months, the likelihood of a breakdown in the drain system will decrease many times over.

The Indesit motor is well designed, reliable and durable. However, nothing is eternal, and at one not-so-great moment, the “heart of the machine” may fail. The reason can be not only the wear of the mechanism, but also excessive overloads.

First, the outer panels are removed from the machine, usually the top and rear.
Disconnect the supply wires.
Remove the belt from the pulley.
Unscrew the fasteners, remove the motor.

After the diagnosis, the final decision is made to repair or replace the engine. Usually they tend to the latter option - it is difficult to restore the engine, it is easier to completely replace it. Installation of a new engine is carried out in the reverse order.

The assembly should be photographed before disassembly, then there will be no problems with where to screw it.

When unusual sounds appear in a working washing machine, especially during spinning, and not episodic, but gradually increasing sounds, this is a clear signal of a malfunction of the bearings, which are responsible for the ease of rotation of the drum.

Do-it-yourself repair in such a situation is possible, but you can’t call it simple - you need extreme care, strict adherence to the sequence of operations:

Remove the top and back panels.
Remove dispenser, control unit.
Unscrew the cuff clamp, remove the cuff itself and the hatch blocking device.
Remove the front wall and counterweight.
Remove tubular electric heater, fixing in memory the sequence of connecting wires.
Disconnect the parts connected to the drum tank, dismantle the drive belt and motor.
Remove the tank, place it on a flat place with the pulley up, then unscrew the pulley bolt, remove the pulley itself.
With a mallet (you can use a simple hammer and a wooden gasket), drown the shaft down, unwind and divide the tank into two halves.
Remove the bearing with a special puller, dismantle the old seals.
After installing fresh seals, press in a new bearing.

The assembly of the washing machine is carried out in the reverse order with strict sequence and operations. To prevent the tank from leaking, all seams must be sealed.

The main thing when replacing a bearing is attentiveness and compliance with the sequence of operations.

A jammed hatch lock can also cause another nuisance - the washing machine will stop turning on. The locking device is also equipped with contacts, and when something prevents complete closure, electricity is not supplied to the units of the unit.

Failure is usually caused by dirt accumulated in the lock. After its elimination, the normal operation of the device, as a rule, is restored.

And the damper dampens excessive vibrations that appear in the washing machine. This is especially necessary during the spin cycle, when the rotating drum is at the highest speed. Over time, they reduce their effectiveness.

As a result - excessive vibration, atypical noises, knocking during the spin cycle. A common cause of failure is the wear of the gasket separating the piston and cylinder, which are further deformed.

The shock absorber cylinder contains a rod, consisting of a rod and a gasket treated with a high friction lubricant. The vibrations are damped by the movement of the piston.

A sharp push of the tank causes the piston to rush into the cylinder, reducing vibration. There is also a spring in the cylinder that returns the piston to its original position - it is called the return spring.

To get to the shock absorbers, you will have to remove the rear panel (in some versions, the side or front cover can be removed). Having unscrewed the nut at the bottom of the shock absorber, it is disconnected from the body. In the same way, the part is released from above. A new shock absorber is installed in place of the previous one and fixed in the reverse order.

In the latest models, instead of shock absorbers, dampers are used, where the return spring has been replaced by a whole spring system that is mounted in the upper area of \u200b\u200bthe tank and provides it with a “suspended” position. This design is more reliable, better dampens unwanted shocks.

To check the performance of the damper, you need to remove it from the body by unscrewing the bolt in its lower segment, and try to put pressure on it so as to compress and then unclench the mechanism. If the result is minimal, the device is in normal working condition. When the piston easily changes position, the damper needs to be replaced.

It is removed from the body in the same way as conventional shock absorbers, although in some models the mounting bolts are replaced with plastic pins with latches. Install a new damper in the usual way - in the reverse order with respect to the assembly.

It happens that the washing powder does not want to leave the tray. This usually happens when it is poured there without measure. The problem disappears with proper dosing.

The fault can also be weak water pressure. It is worth trying to clean the filter at the junction of the washing machine with the inlet hose.

Another option: increase the pressure in the tap that supplies water. Sometimes water cannot get into the tray due to a clogged valve. Then you should pull out the tray, find the valve in the form of a key and carefully clean it.

These are the most common causes of improper behavior of detergent powder, which are easy to deal with without resorting to the help of craftsmen. A more difficult case would be a water inlet valve failure where the powder does not leave the tray at all.This is where the valve needs to be replaced. The same can be said about the solenoid valve responsible for filling the cuvette with water with detergents.

The control unit in Indesit washing machines does not have reliable protection against moisture, as a result, condensate gets on the contacts, short circuits occur that take the device out of working condition.

Repair requires fine diagnostics in the "Autotest" mode, serious knowledge in radio engineering, virtuoso possession of a soldering iron, skills in handling microcircuits, boards, semiconductors. This is usually the domain of qualified professionals.

For rare daredevils from the army of home craftsmen, the most general tips:

remove the cover from the control unit;
extract the module;
inspect faulty contacts and connections;
solder damaged parts;
solder the conditional elements in their place.

But not everyone can handle electronics, so we recommend abandoning experiments and turning to professionals.

You can get acquainted with the practical application of tips for repair and replacement of spare parts by watching educational videos.

Quick replacement of the heating element in the Indesit washer:

How to change the bearing yourself:

Self-replacing the lock on a washing machine:

As a rule, replacing a module does not take much time. First of all, to do this, remove the front cover from the washing machine. Further, when making repairs with their own hands, experts recommend that you familiarize yourself with the mounting device of the board. Basically, the element is fixed on plates that are connected to the body of the washing machine. On many models, they are clamped with screws. To remove the plates, you will have to use the key. The next step is to carefully remove the module and check its condition. Before installing a new element on the block, you must know exactly the marking of the part. It is important to fasten the screws slowly, and without strong pressure on the key.

The module capacitor of the washing machine plays the role of a stabilizer. Quite often it is installed on the block along with filters. Passage modifications in modern models are common. It is also worth noting that the capacitors of the boards cannot be repaired. If the specified element burns out, you can simply change it. To do this, you need a similar element, as well as a blowtorch. Quite often, washing machine capacitors are installed with several filters. As a result, the likelihood of re-burnout is greatly reduced.It is necessary to solder the capacitor to the block only to the positive electrode. A tester is used to test the resistance of a variable circuit.

Washing machine circuit boards often burn out due to resistors. Do-it-yourself repair of the model should begin with testing the module. All you need is a tester for this. On the resistors of the first order boards, the resistance is on average 8 ohms. In this case, the overload parameter should not exceed 2 A. Second-order board resistors are tested last. Their overload indicator is from 3 to 5 A. In this case, the resistance depends on the frequency of the control module. If we consider a simple block, then its above parameter does not exceed 10 ohms. If the resistance is violated, the resistors of the boards can be soldered. When repairing the unit, experts recommend replacing the filters.

Repair of the thyristor block of the module is allowed only after checking the capacitors. If everything is in order with them, then you can proceed directly to testing the elements of the block. The specified part mainly breaks down due to increased overloads from the 220 W network. Also, the unit often fails due to impulse noise. It is quite difficult to make repairs on your own. To do this, you will first have to measure the negative resistance. On first-order diodes, the nominal voltage averages up to 20 V.

If the power supply is in order, then the output contacts rarely burn out. In order to check them, you need to use the tester. If the matter is a burnt-out filter of the thyristor unit, then the problem can be resolved quite quickly. In this case, you must first clean the cathode. The nominal voltage on it reaches an average of 12V. When repairing a thyristor unit, it is important to monitor the condition of the ports. It is very easy to damage them, and they are quite expensive on the market. The new PCB filter is soldered through the positive pin. After carrying out all the work, the control board is thoroughly cleaned.

The trigger in washing machines rarely fails. The causes of failure are most often associated with failures in the operation of the capacitor. To check the functionality of the trigger, it is important to test the voltage at the output pins. The specified parameter must be within 12 V. Many models have a filter installed next to the trigger. The resistance indicator on it averages 20 ohms.Replacing the trigger on the control unit takes quite a long time. First of all, it is important to do the soldering of the output contacts. In this case, it is necessary not to touch the cathode of the capacitor. After soldering, you can install a new trigger. The last step is to test the threshold voltage and check the output impedance on the modulator.All modern washing machines are equipped with a control module. The more functionality the SM has, the more delicate the electronics: it is more prone to breakdowns, since it is sensitive to power surges in the network. Is it possible to repair the "brains" of washing machines with our own hands, how to diagnose their breakdown, we will find out in this article.The main control unit of the washing machine is equipped with two boards. One of them is responsible for the operation of all the details of the washing machine. The other provides the operation of the control panel - buttons, indicators - and has the appropriate connectors for wiring.Is the board not protected from overloads in any way? Of course, the manufacturer has provided for such cases a surge protector that takes the hit during a power surge in the network.How to check the washing machine board and determine the breakdown?The fact is that most of the signs may indicate a breakdown of both the module and other parts. For example, you notice that the machine has stopped working, washing does not start. The reason for this may be a problem with the module or the washing machine motor.What may indicate a malfunction and subsequent repair of the board in the washing machine:

CMA issue an error code on the display.

The system "hangs", does not respond to user manipulations.

Washes too long. The machine then gains, then drains the water, after which the system “freezes”.

The drum abruptly changes direction for no apparent reason.

Spin mode does not turn on.

The water overheats or does not heat up, which does not correspond to the selected mode.

However, the next time you start the washing machine, it can work again in the usual mode.Some CMA models have an autotest that allows you to determine the cause of the breakdown. How to start it is written in the operating instructions for the machine.

A short circuit as a result of a voltage drop can lead to burnout of capacitors, thyristors, triggers and other elements on the board.

Increased humidity. If the CM is used in a bathroom, over time, the humidity will attack the main unit, causing it to malfunction.

Power wire broken. If the wire is cut abruptly, a power surge may occur, which will affect the operation of the module.

Frequent abrupt shutdown of the machine from the network over time can lead to a problem.

Rarely found a factory marriage.

Be careful when transporting the CM from place to place. Be sure to pull out the powder dispenser as some water remains in it. During transportation, water gets on the main unit, which causes it to burn when connected.To start the repair, you will need a diagram of the control board of the washing machine, as shown in the example of the Indesit washing machine.We can advise you to superficially inspect the module for burns and damage. There are other ways to check, but only an experienced specialist can conduct them. In case of malfunctions, you will have to replace the “brains” for the washing machine.To conduct a visual inspection, let's figure out how to remove the washing machine board. First, unplug the washer from the mains, then do this:

Pull out the detergent drawer. To do this, pull it towards you while pressing the latch in the center.

Now unscrew all the screws holding the control panel.

Use a screwdriver to pry out the plastic latches. Remove the panel from the case.

Behind the panel is the main unit. Take a photo or mark the location of the wires with a marker. Then disconnect them and remove the block.

You may need to open the block latches to get to the board.

Once the board is in front of you, inspect it carefully. Noticed burnt areas? Then you need to repair the control unit of the washing machine.We will show you how to replace some elements. To do this, you will need a soldering iron and a new part.

Capacitor. On the control board, it serves as a kind of stabilizer. To replace it, you need to solder a new part to the positive electrode. To find out where which electrode is, use a tester.

Resistor. To check the operation of the resistor, a tester is used. The 1st order resistors should show a result of 8 ohms and an overload of 2A. Second order resistors show 3-5A, while the resistance indicators depend on the frequency of the module. If the indicators do not correspond to the norm, the elements are replaced - by soldering.

thyristor block. You can check the thyristor unit by measuring the negative resistance. Indicators should be no higher than 20V. The block filter could also burn out. You can repair it by cleaning the cathode.

Trigger. The trigger check consists in measuring the voltage of the input contacts. Their readings should not exceed 12 V. The trigger filter resistance should be 20 ohms. The replacement of the element is also carried out by soldering.

The soldering of the board components may be broken due to strong vibrations of the machine. Therefore, you need to monitor the correct and stable installation of the washer.The master knows how to properly repair the control board. Think before you start self-repair, because the electronic unit is quite expensive. If you do not have the skills to work with a soldering iron, and the verification indicators do not give specific results, contact the service center.For those who still decided on an independent repair, a video on the topic: