DIY bosch plate repair

In detail: do-it-yourself bosch stove repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Electric, induction and gas hobs are used for cooking. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and there are also a number of malfunctions that can be eliminated independently if they occur. Do-it-yourself hob repair can be done subject to certain recommendations and if you have the necessary tools.

Glass ceramic hob BOSCH

Hob repair Bosch, in some cases, you can do it yourself.

If, with the power supply connected, one of the burners does not work or the entire device does not work, we carry out the following work:

We check with a multimeter the voltage in the outlet. If it is, then the problem lies with the hob itself. You can check using the indicator, but it only indicates the presence of voltage. A significant change in the current indicators can lead to the operation of protective mechanisms.
We check the condition of the electrical cord and plug. If there is mechanical damage, it will be enough to replace the cord or plug. You can also check the supplied current on the panel itself, since mechanical damage is not always the cause of the cord and plug malfunction.
If the cord with a plug, the socket is in good condition, we dismantle the hob.

Removing the hob

If you repair a glass-ceramic hob with your own hands, you should know that the malfunction of some structural elements can only be detected with a multimeter, by taking measurements in individual sections of the circuit. When considering a Bosh hob, you should pay attention to the following elements:

Video (click to play).

In the absence of resistance or at low rates, these elements should be replaced.

The work of some structural elements can only be detected with a multimeter.

Another common problem is a broken wire in the hob connection block. Under certain circumstances, they can burn out or, due to poor installation, there may be poor contact. Checking for such a malfunction can be quite simple.

Let's highlight a few more problems that lead to improper operation of the hob:

Some models have fuses that can blow out due to high voltage surges. Their cost is low, the replacement procedure is quite simple. In order to protect expensive equipment from such situations, you should install a surge protection device. If the fuses constantly fail, you should check the operating features of the equipment itself, since the problem may not be in the indicators of the supplied voltage.
The burner may not work due to the fact that the contact on the heating element has disappeared. If the wiring is unsoldered, you can resume work, for which you need to have a soldering iron and be able to use it. The problem may be associated with the power supply, which also often loses contact.

If the heating element is burned out, it must be replaced with a new one

The design of electric hobs is quite complex, but many of its elements are highly reliable.

The principle of operation of an induction hob is to directly heat the contents of the cookware, and not the surface of the stove or the cookware itself. Due to the fact that the hob remains constantly cold, such kitchen appliances are very popular.

There are several problems in which you can repair an induction hob yourself:

If the hob does not turn on or does not turn off immediately, do not panic. Modern models from the manufacturer in question are able to determine the type of cookware, its absence on the hob. Therefore, if the cookware is not suitable for induction heating or if it is not installed, then a protective mechanism is activated. Do not forget that induction cookers do not heat the hob itself.
If the heat is weak, then initially you should check the type of dishes used, whether it fits the recommendations.
Repairing induction hobs, as in the previous case, you need to start by checking the circuit for the presence or absence of contact. Fuses often fail, as there are often power surges in the network. In this case, simply change the fuse.

The rest of the repair of induction hobs is similar to the repair of electrical panels.

Induction hob

To repair the electric and induction hob, you need to have the following tools:

Screwdriver Set. In order to carry out many dismantling work, you need to have several different screwdrivers, which may differ in size and type of tip. In addition to ordinary screwdrivers, you should pay attention to the need for an indicator that detects the presence of voltage.
The mounting knife is often used when carrying out electrical work. As a rule, it is necessary for changing the length, stripping wire strands and other similar work.
Pliers are often used during assembly work. However, they often have a sharp part that can be used to cut the veins.
It is often necessary to have wire cutters.

In addition, a multimeter may be needed to determine the voltage value. It determines various parameters of the supplied current. A soldering iron may be needed when carrying out repair work.

Today, the popularity of household appliances powered by electricity is constantly growing, but minor breakdowns sometimes occur during operation. The electric stove is present in every modern kitchen - it is the heart of this space. When a kitchen assistant fails, many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to repair an electric stove with their own hands?Firstly, a home craftsman who decides to repair an electric stove on his own must at least understand electrical appliances, know the elementary fundamentals of electrical engineering and safety rules when carrying out this type of work. Secondly, you need to be sure that you can perform such a complex repair, and most importantly, find and eliminate the root cause of the breakdown. Third, it is necessary to prepare special tool.When dismantling electric stoves, you will need screwdrivers for various purposes: for a cross or slot, with different thicknesses, the so-called tip specialists. You will definitely need keys - open-end and capscrews, pliers, wire cutters. For internal work in the body of the product, a soldering iron, side cutters, an insulating tape and, of course, a special device for measuring voltage and resistance are useful.

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If you have a stove with burners, then in order to change them, you need to act according to this method.

We unscrew the nut and remove the grounding.
There may be a ring or bracket under it that presses the part to the base.
The burner is fastened with a threaded connection or simply inserted into a special hole. In the first case, we lubricate the thread with oil and carefully try to unscrew it from the case, in the second case, we pry it with a screwdriver and take it out.
If the model is of the old model, then it is better to immediately replace the burned-out burners with modern and economical models that are suitable in size.
If the burners are in good working order, then the reason for the failure lies in control unit - a large current flows through the mechanical regulators, and carbon deposits can form on delicate contacts, which are cleaned with fine sandpaper.

Here's a step-by-step guide on how to repair or replace a switch on an electric cooker.

If there are no clicks when turning the regulator, this indicates that it is defective.
There is an original check of its condition: we put the regulator in the middle position, apply voltage to the stove, the automatic protection should work - turn on and off after 30 seconds.
Before removing the handles, you must study the instructions - on some models they do not understand (Gefest, Kaiser).
First, the control knobs are removed from the outside, then we unscrew the front panel.
A bar is installed under it, which must be removed in order to get to the broken regulator.

If the click is inaudible when the relay is turned on, then it is necessary to check for the presence of a signal - if it is absent, the reason lies in the microprocessor itself or in the cascade at the output. To repair an electronic unit, you need to have a schematic diagram and understand the complexities of radio engineering... If there is no knowledge and skills, then it is better to turn to specialists - otherwise you will have to buy a new electric stove.

Modern electric stoves on heating elements quite often use a cascade-type burner thermostat.

Sometimes there is a breakdown of such a regulator, for which an identical replacement can be found. Experienced masters advise to install triac type such a device, you just need to take it with a margin of power and current strength. In some models, it is installed on one board along with a heatsink. When the hob burner is operating at maximum, and the heating control cannot be changed, this indicates that it was the regulator that failed for an unknown reason - it urgently needs to be replaced.

Each user should understand that modern household appliances are crammed with electronics, each model has its own, different from others, nuance of manufacturing and control - mechanical or electronic. Outside interference without special knowledge and skills can negatively affect the delicate filling of electric stoves.

If you have a simple stove with burners on an enameled hob, then you can repair it on your own by watching the video:

In this article, I will tell you about everything you can do with your own hands when your electric stove or hob is broken.

First, let's define what you can do yourself and what not. Plates are electromechanical and electronic. In this article, and indeed on the site, I will not consider electronic stoves and hobs, since the field of electronics ... Let's just say that electricity is just a small piece of electronics in the modern world. I can also say so. To understand electricity, to a greater extent, it is enough to know Ohm's law and understand it. In electronics, even if I now begin to list in simple words, everything will drag on for a very long time. So, regarding the electronic hobs, I will briefly touch on them, but I will not disassemble the repair directly. Before you start reading further, if you are going to disassemble the stove, be sure to read the electrical safety instructions. When you read the instructions just click on the "back" button and you will come back here.

Actually, there are literally several faults and I will divide them into points:

Well, now, let's go in order and consider each point in detail.

To do this, you need a multimeter. The voltage will need to be checked in the outlet (first of all), in the terminal block of the stove, on the burner mode switches, on the heating elements themselves. How to measure voltage with a multimeter is written here.

So, we disassemble the socket for the electric stove and measure the voltage. If it is within 220-240 volts, then everything is in order, but do not rush to close the outlet. Carefully insert the plug into the socket, turn on the hob and check the voltage again. If it suddenly disappeared, then you have a problem on the supply line and not in the stove. If you are using an outlet like the RSH, as in the photo, then turn off the power, make sure it is not there, and do two manipulations.

It has been very difficult to find a good socket for an electric stove lately. If the socket is behind the stove, I recommend replacing it with U739M clamps. But if you just need an outlet, then you need to pay close attention to the correct connection of wires to it. In the photo you can see how the contact was deformed. This is due to the fact that the wire was simply inserted into the terminal and tightened. It seems that you tightened it tightly, but in fact, the wire is almost not tightened due to the deformation of the contact. Therefore, in low-quality sockets, a ring must be made from the wire and only then tightened. The tightening in this case, at least, will be reliable.
Next, you need to pay attention to the contacts. In the photo, a blue circle indicates a contact in which the plug will not provide a reliable connection. Therefore, the contact plates must be straightened as shown on the right contact, circled in red, to ensure a secure connection.If the metal is flimsy, then you need to do this every time you pull out the plug (in any case, if you do not bend it, then check the condition of the contacts). All this can be avoided by using U739M clamps or any others like them. Plug in the plug and go to the next step.

After you have dealt with the outlet, open the terminal block of the plate. There are several types of terminal blocks, but they all follow the same principle. As a rule, it provides for the possibility of changing the connection to one, two or three phases. For this purpose, the jumpers that come with the kit are used. What is worth paying attention to here. First, do a visual inspection for melted contacts. If there is one, then this contact is either not tightened, or there is an unreliable contact on the inside. De-energize the stove before tightening the screw. If you are trying to tighten the melted contact screw and it is tightened, then you will have to disassemble the plate. If it tightens, that is, it has been loosened, then there is a possibility that the stove will work, but I would recommend replacing the melted terminal block.

In the terminal block, a different burner is connected to each phase contact. Thus, if one or two burners do not work for you (especially if you installed a new stove yourself), then there is a high probability that you forgot about the jumpers or forgot to tighten them. It may be that you tightened the jumpers loosely. And weak contact causes heating. If you are interested, you can find out what the current does to the wires. If the stove does not work completely, then there is hardly a problem in the terminal block, most likely a problem in the power supply.

Now you need to turn on the power to the plate and check the voltage at the terminal block. You need to check by touching the screws themselves, not the wires. Moreover, check each screw. So you will understand if there is voltage at the terminal itself if the wire is not clamped correctly. That is, zero and first screw, zero and second screw, etc. If everything is in order and there is tension, then you will have to disassemble the stove.

After disassembling the plate, look at the connections on the back of the terminal block.

Conclusion on checking the voltage: if the stove does not work completely, then you need to check the jumpers, there is no point in checking the voltage in the outlet. If the stove does not work completely, then you need to check the voltage in both the outlet and the terminal block (if there is voltage in the outlet), since there is a possibility that there is no contact in the plug or some problems in the wire. If any one burner does not work, then go ahead.

If you have not yet read the article that was mentioned just above and which tells what current does to the wires, then read it. The main unpleasant property of weak contact is that when it heats up, the contact can disappear and then reappear. Therefore, if something works for you, then it does not, then you need to look for a weak contact. Unfortunately, this will have to be done under voltage, consistently going through the circuit, so be careful and attentive.

To begin with, there are three types of switches. They are all mechanical, but differ in the way they work.

step power control
smooth power control
smooth power control with the ability to turn on an additional area

Accordingly, each switch uses its own cooking zones. The step switch uses a hotplate with several heating elements. You can find everything about such a burner here. The temperature on the hotplates with these switches is adjustable in steps and has fixed positions.

For the switch with continuously adjustable power, burners with one spiral are used. Therefore, such a burner, if it burns out, then once and for all.Unlike burners with several spirals (they were discussed in the previous paragraph), which continue to work partially, but do not give out maximum power. You can regulate the temperature on such burners smoothly within a very wide range, almost like on gas stoves.

For a continuously adjustable switch and an additional area, burners with one spiral are also used, but the burners have two areas. Consequently, a malfunction can manifest itself in two ways: one area does not work, or both areas do not work. If only one area has stopped working, then it is more likely that the reason is either in the switch or in the hotplate, if both areas stopped working at once, then most likely the power to the hotplate or the problem is in the switch.

What's on this point? Since you will be working with dangerous voltages, you need to be very careful. Turn on the switch and check the voltage on the hotplate. If there is voltage, but the burner does not work, this can indicate two malfunctions - the burner burned out or the burner thermal fuse (if any) is faulty. If there is no voltage, but it comes to the terminal block of the plate, then the problem is purely in the switch.

Basically, there is only one step switch malfunction. Poor contact leads to heating of the contact plates and either burns out the contact or deforms the switch guides. In this case, only a close inspection of the switch will help determine the malfunction. If you see darkened terminals, then the switch will have to be changed, since it cannot be repaired at home. You can only postpone his death for several days / months.

I wouldn't repair the continuously variable switches either. There are a little more malfunctions, but they all boil down to the fact that there is a breakdown of the bimetallic element. The principle of operation of these switches is that a current flows through the bimetallic plate, causing the plate to heat up, which in turn leads to reversible deformation of the plate. As soon as the deformation reaches a critical point, the switch changes the position of the contacts, closing or opening the contact plates of the power supply of the burner. If you repair such a switch, then setting up the correct activation and deactivation of it is quite problematic. In this case, the hotplate will either not reach full power or will not turn off completely.

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Before changing the modulating switch with additional area, it makes sense to disassemble it first. There are two types of malfunction: the additional area does not turn on and does not turn off. In the first case, you need to look at what prevents you from turning it on, in the second case there is such a moment as welding the contacts. In this case, the contacts are opened, cleaned with a sandpaper or file until the contact pads are even, and this may solve the problem for a long time, or it may not. It all depends on the quality of the material of working contacts.

The task of the timer in the stove is to ensure that you have the possibility of automatic cooking. That is, you can set the on and off times, select the cooking mode, place the dish and the stove will turn on and off by the appointed time. Most often, the timer controls only the oven, but there are models in which one of the burners is also connected via a timer. The oven will not work until the timer has been set. It is not necessary to set the exact time, it is much more important to simply set it. The correct time does not affect the workflow in any way, it is rather intended for your convenience, so that you can correctly navigate the time by which you need to prepare your dish (for example, in the morning or reheat food for dinner).

Actually, if the timer is faulty, either only the oven or another hotplate will not work for you, if it is connected via a timer.

In part, I considered the repair of EKCH burners, where all malfunctions of burners with several spirals are written. The troubleshooting methods are suitable for all cooking zones. Here I will dwell in a little more detail on modern burners.

Therefore, it is possible to designate malfunctions:

If power comes to the burner (to the yellow and blue contacts), but the burner does not work, then two reasons can be distinguished: the contacts of the temperature sensor do not close or the spirals are burned out. If there is no thermal sensor, then the most likely cause is the combustion of the spirals. But everything must be looked at in place.

As I said, for the most part, this applies to the oven in the stovetop or oven. It can look differently, but you can “recognize” it by the following signs: it has only two (rarely three) contacts, it is attached to the oven, thick wires fit to it. Thermal fuses in ovens are rarely self-healing. That is, if it burns out, then it needs to be changed. A thermal fuse of any shape is suitable for replacement, but must correspond to the current and temperature that it controls. You can check its malfunction with a multimeter in the dial mode. Its resistance should be within zero. That is, it must simply conduct an electric current. The thermal fuse is installed in the common wire of the oven, which goes directly from the terminal block. Thus, if the thermal fuse is triggered, the oven will not work and, as a rule, only it will not work, and in all modes.

Let's summarize and briefly go through troubleshooting.

We determine the presence of voltage starting from the outlet, if the stove does not work completely and then in series: terminal block, switch, thermal fuse (if any), burner.
Having found a faulty area, we try to repair it. If it cannot be repaired, we will change it.
When replacing a hotplate, remember that EKCH-type hotplates can be used in circuits where regulators with smooth switching are installed, but not vice versa.
We do not forget that we are working with dangerous voltage, therefore, we observe safety precautions.

In the article, I tried to consider as much as possible all possible malfunctions of mechanically controlled electric stoves. Some of the faults are suitable for electronically controlled cookers. In principle, mechanically controlled plates are easily repaired at home, but it is better to entrust electronic plates to specialized workshops.

Repair of hobs with touch controls is discussed in this article. Although this is a separate article, it is a kind of supplement. If you have a purely mechanical control, then you can read the article on touch control panels only for self-development.

If you've read it, well done! Well, I say goodbye to you.

Various devices can be used for cooking, but due to their frequent use and intensive work, they are especially prone to breakdown. Repair of electric stoves can be done with your own hands at home, without taking out bulky equipment to a service center.

Despite the external complexity, this device has a very simple design. All working elements are installed in a special heat-resistant cabinet made of alloy steel.

Photo - electric stove design

The principle of operation of the electric stove is based on heating the heating element by means of an electric current flowing through it. The device is equipped with heating elements that are necessary for cooking. They are ceramic, tubular, halogen, solid.

Photo - burner structure

Ceramic burners are presented in the form of a tube, so they can be used for any electric stoves and it is very easy to repair them yourself. The spiral fits into the hole in the plate and is secured with the help of special parts.Now more and more glass ceramics are used, which are more affordable and durable, in addition, it is amenable to washing;
Halogen burners are considered economical, they work due to halogen lamps with reflectors. These lighting devices are installed in different parts of the hob and provide fast heating and low consumption of electrical energy;
In old domestic tiles (Dream, ZVI and others), cast-iron spiral heating elements were often installed. They heated up slowly, but after turning off they gave off heat for a very long time. Separately, it should be noted their durability and resistance to moisture and high temperatures;
The tubular spiral is made of a hollow tube. When heated, it not only gives off heat, but also promotes the circulation of warm air inside itself, which makes it possible to increase the efficiency of the device. This type of burner is the most difficult to repair yourself.

To power the stove, a power wire is used, which is connected to all burners. In addition, they also connect to regulators and thermostats, which act as a safety system for the appliance. After switching on, the wire begins to transmit energy to the heating element, which is necessary for cooking. You need to control the heating level and the hotplate using the appropriate knob. Many household stoves Ardo (Ardo), Indesit (Indesit), Electrolux (Electrolux), Zanussi (Zanussi) and others, in addition to these devices, also have built-in timers and alarms. They help control cooking times.

Photo - modern stove with halogen lamps and a sensor

Unlike gas stoves, electric stoves are considered fairly safe in everyday use. Their repair and maintenance can be easily done by yourself, and in terms of durability they are much better than gas models. In particular, this is because they can be cleaned at home, and not wait for the arrival of a specialist.

Typical malfunctions:

A burning smell appears during operation. If you are worried about the smell of burnt food, then repair is not needed, you need to clean the cooking surface. If it stinks of plastic or rubber, then you need to urgently call an electrician;
The hotplate does not heat up. This could be due to a lack of voltage, a coil or control handle problem. Repair of the burner or its wire will be required;
Heating temperature not adjustable. It will definitely require repair of the mode switch;
The hotplate does not heat up. A common problem with tabletop and stationary cookers is that their spirals crack. They can collapse as a result of an impact or from a sharp temperature drop (for example, the spiral heats up, and cold water accidentally gets on it). This is the reason for the lack of heating of the burner or uneven heating of food. Self-repair of the spiral is very easy to carry out without the help of a master - more often than not, it just needs to be replaced;
Poor oven performance. Most likely, the problem also lies in the breakage of the spiral.

It should be noted right away that the branded service will not undertake to carry out warranty repairs after outside interference. Therefore, if you do not have such experience, then it is better to immediately contact specialized workshops.

Before starting to repair the device, you need to disassemble the case and get to the main elements. Depending on the design, on the panel or on the back wall of the Ariston (Ariston), Beko (Veko), Bosch (Bosch) electric stove and others, threaded connections may be located. They must be carefully unscrewed and removed. The table is attached with four screws, if removed, the panels can be lifted and removed to the side.

You will see the wires that go to the burner - these are the power cables and switches. They must be removed, because otherwise, further disassembly will be impossible. Burner removal scheme looks like this:

First, the grounding clamping nut is unscrewed;
It comes off neatly;
There may be a ring or bracket under the ground, which serves to press the part as tightly as possible to the base;
The burner can be installed either on the thread or simply inserted into the hole. Depending on its design, you need to lubricate the threaded element with oil and unscrew the part from the case, or simply pry it off with a flat screwdriver and take it out.

After that, you will have access to the internal connections of the device. It should be noted that the main elements of the hob are located directly below it, below (on the bottom, under it, on the back wall) are the oven parts.

Photo - hob

Consider how to clean ceramic hobs from Hansa (Hansa), Gorenje (Combustion), AEG and others. It is imperative to disconnect the device from the mains, otherwise you may get an electric shock. With a damp cloth, you need to wet the dirt on the surface of the burner and wait a few minutes, then gently clean off the build-up with a sponge or soft brush. In no case should a metal brush be used, otherwise the integrity of the spiral and powder coating may be damaged.

Photo - cleaning

Step-by-step instructions on how to replace or repair a switch for household electric stoves:

It is necessary to turn off the power and turn the knob of the switch from the off position to the minimum heat. In the process, a lye should be heard, which indicates the operation of the thermostat;
If there is no click, then the regulator is faulty. For an additional check of the thermostat, you need to leave it in the middle position and turn on the power - the protection should turn on and off every half a minute; Photo - electric stove switches repair
Before removing the handles, be sure to read the "User's Guide", some models of plates are non-separable (Hephaestus, Kaiser);
The first to remove are the handles, which are used to adjust the outside. Then, using screwdrivers, the front panel is unscrewed;
Under it is a bar that presses the switches. It also needs to be unscrewed and the broken part removed.

What to do if the spiral is cracked:

Unplug the electric stove from the network. In most cases, repairing the coil is impractical, so it will need to be replaced;
Remove the top hob;
Under it there is either a hole for ceramic heating elements, or a recess for solid cast iron or halogen ones;
You need to very carefully pry on the part and remove it. Disconnect the contacts from the switch and the power wire beforehand;
Install the replacement coil in a similar way.