DIY repair plm breeze 12

In detail: DIY repair of plm breeze 12 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Fishbein E.I. Outboard motors "Veterok". Device, operation and repair: Handbook. L., publishing house "Shipbuilding", 1989. - 184 p .: ill.

The information about the device of outboard boat motors "Veterok" is stated, recommendations are given for their operation and repair. The most typical motor malfunctions, methods of their detection and elimination are considered. The experience of many amateurs on self-disassembly, assembly and improvement of motor units is summarized, drawings and diagrams of special devices and devices used in disassembling and assembling motors are presented. There is reference information required for repairmen.

For water lovers, owners of motors of the Veterok family, it can also be used by workers of repair shops.

In our country, which has a huge number of reservoirs and waterways, widely used for the national economy, the development of water tourism, recreation and sports, such a universal vehicle as a motor boat with an outboard motor has become widespread. It is used for the transportation of people and goods, fishing, water management, timber floating, for carrying out hydraulic works and rescue operations on the water, for recreation of the population and sports.

Unlike stationary power plants, the outboard motor is more convenient to operate, does not take up space in the boat, is lightweight, easy to maintain and repair, and this has made it popular with the army of thousands of motor boat owners. One of the most frequently used domestic outboard motors are outboard motors of the Veterok family with a capacity of 5.9 and 8.8 kW (8 and 12 hp), manufactured by the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant of the AvtoUAZ Production Association. Motors "Veterok-8" have been produced since 1965, "Veterok-12" - since 1967. In 1969-1971. The plant mastered production and produced small batches of modifications of motors with an elongated deadwood (Veterok-8U, Veterok-12U) and in a cargo version (Veterok-8M, Veterok-12M). In 1978 the enterprise switched to the production of models with an electronic contactless ignition system (Veterok-8E, Veterok-12E).

Video (click to play).

Reliable operation of motors over a long period of time largely depends on skillful operation, qualified maintenance and timely repairs. The inadequacy of the existing network of workshops for the repair and maintenance of outboard motors, on the one hand, and the desire to have a hand in their motor, on the other, lead to the fact that most owners of Veterok motors carry out maintenance and preventive maintenance of motors on their own, usually without having , sufficient information on the design features, conditions for disassembly, assembly and adjustment of units, ways to improve reliability and performance.

The purpose of this book is to help Veterok owners to properly operate, repair and maintain motors.

The issues of the theory of operation of two-stroke engines, widely covered in special literature, are given minimal attention in the book; it only gives a general idea of the principles of operation of motor units.

The design of motors is constantly being improved, therefore, by the time the book is published, there may be some design changes in units and parts, carried out in order to increase reliability and durability, and improve performance.

During two navigations I went to Kazanka under two Veterok-12 engines.I want to tell you about the motor shortcomings identified during this time, as well as about the ways to eliminate them.

The main defect is the unfinished design of the fuel mixture inlet valves. On one motor, after 10 hours of operation, one valve broke, and after 17 - three more. Soon the valves on the second motor also "flew". After replacing all the valves, the engine ran for only one hour. Three valves broke down at once, and fragments hit the cylinder and "lifted" its mirror and piston, which led to seizure of the rings in the piston grooves.

As observations have shown, everything begins with gouging out a part of the valve along the edge of the limiter, which immediately worsens the start of the motor. Further, the crack deepens, and eventually part of the valve breaks off. The engine stops and does not start any more due to a violation of the timing.

I have installed the intake valves in a design that eliminates the bending shock of the valve end. A similar design is used, for example, on the "Moscow" motor.

The idle clutch switching is placed on the vertical shaft, which simplified the design of the gearbox and does not cause any complaints when operating the motor in warm weather. But in early spring and late autumn, when the engine is warming up at idle, the lubricant in the gearbox does not stir due to the low temperature, which makes it too viscous when the engine is turned on. As a result, when turned on at low speeds, the motor stalls. If you turn it on at a few high speeds, then the safety key on the propeller is inevitably cut off. The dynamic load on the key could be reduced by using a more flexible propeller damper. The preliminary acceleration of the boat on the oars helps to turn the engine on "running" at low temperatures.

Propeller shaft bearings are not reliable enough. Already after 70 hours of operation, radial shaft play appears due to bearing wear, and water enters the gearbox, despite the fact that the successful design of the oil seals with the use of a bracelet spring ensures the tightness of the gearbox for a much longer period than, say, in the old "Moscow".

The water cooling pump of the motor installed on the boat is located below the water level, which increases the reliability of its operation (in comparison with the Moskva motor).

But the pump casing made of aluminum alloy needs to be reworked, because its lower end quickly wears out from friction against the impeller. On one motor, for this reason, after 40 hours of operation, the pump stopped pumping water. It should be noted that the upper steel cover and the adjoining end of the impeller did not wear out during this time. Hence the conclusion: it is advisable to reinforce the bottom of the case with a steel plate.

The upper starter assembly is designed so that the drive pin will burr the flywheel ring gear and dent the pinion housing. This can be avoided if the starter is disassembled once or twice a season, the dents in the gear groove, the holes of the upper stop and the pulley shank for the drive pin are cleaned, and the upper assembly is completed according to the proposed sketch. When assembling, the starter parts should be lubricated with grease. You also need to clean the lead-in of the gear and flywheel teeth.

The lower shoulder of the idle clutch shift knob must be shortened by 3 mm, otherwise, when energetically turning on or off the stroke, the handle slips over the spring, and you cannot move it back without the help of a screwdriver.

The bolt heads of fastening the spacer to the intermediate body when the boat is moving are located at the very surface of the water and contribute to the retention of algae on the spacer.

On the old "Moscow" screws with a semicircular head are installed in this place instead of bolts, and this phenomenon is not observed. You can put the screws on the "Veterok", if you make a trim in the shoulder for the washers.

Finally, the handle for carrying the motor needs to be redesigned so that it can be stowed securely on the pier.

The desire to increase the power of their motor quite often appears among amateur waterboats.However, increasing the power of a serial motor may not be justified in all cases. In fact, there is only one such case: if, with the typical, most frequently used loading of a planing boat, 10-20% of power is not enough to enter planing, all other measures (such as installing transom plates, bilge splash guards, selection and polishing of the propeller) have exhausted themselves. On a displacement boat, a slight increase in engine power will practically not bring an increase in speed, but it will increase gasoline consumption, in this case, in order to increase traction, it is better to install an annular profiled nozzle on the propeller. If the power of the engine is sufficient to enter the plane of a light boat without any alterations, a slight increase in power will give a very small increase in speed. In addition, you should always remember that any increase in the power of a serial engine is associated with a decrease in its service life.

It is not recommended to increase the power of the old "Veterkov-12", which have weak bronze bushings of the upper connecting rod heads, which quickly fail without any forcing. The new "Veterka-12" have more reliable needle bearings in the upper ends of the connecting rods, ensuring reliable operation of serial motors, however, since the size of the bearings is the same as that of the "Veterka-8", there is no guarantee of their operation after engine boost.

Therefore, the full range of the described work can be done without fear only with the new "Veterka-8M" at all.

In any case, the modified motor should be operated carefully: after going on planing, drop the throttle to medium, not allowing the engine to operate for a long time with overload.

The engine power of the outboard motor can be increased by improving its thermal processes (crankcase filling, blowing, exhaust, etc.) and reducing mechanical friction losses. Let us consider in more detail the ways to increase the power of the Veterka-8 and Veterka-12 engines.

Let's start with the carburetor. To improve the filling of the crankcase with fresh mixture, a K-33V carburetor from Veterka-12 should be installed on Veterka-8, and on Veterka-12 this carburetor should be bored by increasing the diameter of the diffuser. Before boring out of the carburetor, you need to remove the spray nozzle, air jet tube, throttle valve with axle, air damper, float chamber cover and unscrew the adjusting screws. Note: To remove the atomizer, you will need to drill out the brass plug above it. The tubes of the atomizer and the air jet are removed with narrow pliers, but first, a wire with a diameter of 2 mm must be inserted into the tubes.

The carburetor body is injection molded. Considering that its walls have a thickness of 1.5-2.5 mm, bore the air channel more than indicated in Fig. 1 does not follow. The new throttle valve is machined using an oblique boring mandrel.

Rice. 1. Boring the carburetor and making a new throttle valve: 1 - KZZV carburetor; 2 - throttle valve; 3 - mandrel.

After boring, the spray gun and jet tube are put (tightly) in place. The hole above the spray is closed with a plug made of an M6 screw with a lock nut. The inlet connection does not need to be changed, except for the fact that the diameter of the inlet must be increased to 22 mm. The valve partition is being finalized according to Fig. 2. If it shows chipping marks along the edge of the intake windows, replace it with a new one or grind it. A new partition can be made by yourself from textolite or aluminum alloy D1AT with a thickness of 4-5 mm. In this case, the visor is made separately and screwed on from the rear side of the partition with two M4 countersunk screws.

The aluminum partition is more durable than the plastic one; if at the same time use valves of improved shape, thickened to 0.25 mm, this will significantly increase the service life and reliability of the valve mechanism (such valves have been installed on Veterok motors since mid-1970).

It is advisable to bend the valve lift limiters so that the end of the limiter has a deflection of 8.0-8.5 mm. After tightening the fastening screw, the inlet valve should not be strongly pressed against the partition, it is better if its uncrushed end rises by 0.5-1.0 mm.

Now you can start working to improve the blowdown. Since the purge channels are located in different parts of the crankcase and the cylinder block, and there is a gasket between them, their contours may not coincide, which increases the resistance of the channel and inhibits the flow of the combustible mixture. You can check the coincidence of the contours using a pocket mirror 40-50 mm wide, inserted into the channel from the side of the block. You can find such a position of the mirror in which the ledges formed by the unevenness of the block, gasket or crankcase will be visible. If the unevenness is 3-4 mm, it is necessary to disassemble the motor to treat the purge channels.

The amount of disassembly depends on which part requires modifications. If the ledges and irregularities are only in the bores of the cylinder block, only the block needs to be removed. Worse, if, after examining the purge channels in the block and the crankcase and their imprints on the paronite gasket, you find that the crankcase also needs to be processed: then you will have to completely disassemble it. It is convenient to press out the crankshaft from the crankcase using the puller shown in fig. 3. Attach the puller to the bottom flange so that the shank of the screw rests against the slotted hole in the crankshaft. It is not necessary to disassemble the upper and middle main shaft bearings.

Rice. 2. Valve partition (material - getinax, textolite, aluminum).

In fig. 4 and 5 show the contours of the channels Veterka-12 and Veterka-8, respectively. Using them, make a template of cardboard or thick paper, taking the holes for the centering pins as the base. Lay the template on the surface of the crankcase, checking the position of the pins and outline the contour of the channels with a scribe. Using the same template, the contour of the channels is transferred to the flange of the cylinder block; in this case, to orient the template, the pins must be removed from the crankcase and inserted with their thin ends into the holes of the block.

Rice. 3. Puller for pressing out the crankshaft.

The canals can be processed using a pneumatic drill, drill and any other means that can rotate a horn file, a reamer or other similar instrument. After preliminary rough treatment, the surface of the channels must be sanded with sandpaper. The final surface finish must be at least sixth grade. It should be noted that it is better to achieve complete coincidence of the contours of the channels in the connector than to polish their surfaces to a mirror finish.

Rice. 4. Template for processing blow-off channels at Veterka-12.
Rice. 5. Template for processing blow-off channels at Veterka-8.

The quality of processing is controlled by a round rod with a diameter of 10 mm, which must freely pass through the entire channel in the block; in the channel from the inlet to the crankcase to the purge ports in the cylinder, there should be no ledges or irregularities of more than 0.5 mm. Particular attention should be paid to the end of the duct - the turn towards the purge ports (see Fig. 6, which shows a section of the cylinder and the duct). A "bag" (shaded in the figure) can form between the cylinder wall and the insert, creating additional resistance to the flow of the purge mixture. The block surface under the insert should be milled to a depth of 1-1.5 mm, then the insert will move closer to the cylinder and the "bag" will be removed.

Rice. 6. Section along the Veterka-12 blowing channel.

To reduce mechanical losses in the engine, the lower piston rings must be sealed in the grooves.To do this, the rings should be shortened by 3.5 mm from the side where there is no cutout for the stopper, and the groove on the pistons should be made 0.4-0.6 mm deeper than necessary to drown the ring in it. Rolling is performed with light hammer blows along the edges of the groove with the ring recessed in it, starting at the stopper.

Of great importance is the correct selection of the clearance between the top land of the piston (the section of its lateral surface between the top ring and the bottom) and the cylinder mirror in working order. The absence of a gap here leads to an increase in mechanical losses, and too large a gap violates the seal of the working space. It is considered to be the best such a gap in which there are no traces of contact with the cylinder mirror on the top land and at the same time carbon deposits are not deposited. The belt should be gray in color. Places with the resulting metallic sheen after running the engine at full throttle for 20-30 minutes are sanded with a fine sandpaper.

It is also possible to reduce friction and, consequently, power losses by installing a bushing with a dewatering groove in the lower bearing instead of the lower oil seal (Fig. 7). The upper gland in the support should be retained and installed with the spring up. Before assembling the engine, make sure that the oil seals are tight. To do this, you need to remove the oil seals from the crankcase seat and then put them one by one on the lower trunnion of the crankshaft, pouring kerosene into the cavity with a spring. The oil seal is good if kerosene does not penetrate the shaft below it. The best proven oil seals are installed on the engine.

Rice. 7. Water-distilling sleeve.

All crankshaft ball bearings should be checked for ease of rotation and seizure. The middle main bearing should rotate freely and move axially from one cheek to the other.

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Rotation of the pin in the upper connecting rod head should be light. The gap in the bushing-pin pair should be within 0.015-0.025 mm.

During the assembly of the engine to perform the most difficult operation - pressing the crankshaft with supports, it is advisable to make a tapered mandrel (Fig. 8). A mandrel inserted into the lower oil seal protects its working edge from bending at the moment the end of the crankshaft passes.

Rice. 8. Arbor to protect the lip of the gland.

A 40-50 mm long stud must be screwed into one of the four holes in the upper crankcase flange: it will serve as a guide when pressing the upper crankcase cover. If the cover has not reached the end of the block by at least 0.3 mm, do not tighten it with the screws, but repeat the pressing operation from the very beginning (in this case, it is advisable to press out the crankshaft not immediately, but after the parts have cooled down). The position of a correctly pressed crankshaft is shown in fig. 9.

Rice. 9. Correct position of the pressed-in crankshaft: 1 - control plate.

A certain difficulty in installing the cylinder block is the compression of the piston rings. To simplify the work, make a crimp (Fig. 10), put on the piston with the rings on top and crimp them thanks to a deep chamfer. When putting on the block, the rings will enter the cylinder, and the crimp will go down along the piston and it can be removed by passing the connecting rod through the slot.

Rice. 10. Crimping of piston rings for "Veterka-12".

Another way to increase the power of the Veterka engine is to increase the compression ratio, however, it is impossible to increase it above a certain limit (for example 7.5-8.0), since this leads to overheating of the spark plugs and other engine parts. You need to start by checking the actual compression ratio. To do this, with the piston at TDC, measure the volume of the combustion chamber by filling it with spindle oil measured by a burette or beaker with an accuracy of at least 0.5 cm3. For this, the engine is installed with plug holes upwards and oil is poured through them into the combustion chamber up to the third or fourth thread from the bottom. The nominal volume of the combustion chamber for Veterka-8 is 12.5-13.0 cm3, and for Veterka-12 is 18.0-18.5 cm3. The actual compression ratio for these volumes is about 6.0.

To increase the compression ratio, you need to trim the block head. To reduce the volume of the combustion chamber by 1 cm3, it is necessary to cut off 0.5 mm from the end of the head on "Veterka-8" and 0.35 mm on "Veterka-12". With a compression ratio of about 7.5, the volume of the combustion chamber should be approximately 10 cm3 on Veterka-8, and 15 cm3 on Veterka-12. Trimming is best done on a lathe, holding the head by the side surface in a three-jaw chuck. If the measured volumes in both cylinders turned out to be the same, you should carefully align the plane of the head relative to the lateral feed of the caliper. For unequal volumes, the side of the head with the larger chamber should be positioned closer to the cutter. To improve surface finish, the caliper feed on the last pass should be kept to a minimum.

For one reason or another, deviations in the distance of the scavenging and exhaust ports from the top of the cylinder are possible. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to check the simultaneity of opening of all purge or outlet ports of each cylinder. Before checking, the inserts of the purge windows, the exhaust cover and the head are removed from the engine; the work will be facilitated if the rings are also removed from the pistons. After that, the piston moves to the BDC until a gap appears in one of the purge or outlet ports. Windows that open later than that moment are processed - filed with a round file until the windows in both cylinders open completely simultaneously. When filing, it is better to remove the cylinder block; Before each check, it should be flushed and secured to the crankcase with two central bolts.

It is desirable to slightly increase the valve timing - purge and exhaust relative to the nominal (Table 1). An increase in the purge phase is achieved by installing an additional gasket 0.5-0.8 mm thick in the connector between the crankcase and the block, and the exhaust - by additional filing of the upper part of the exhaust windows. After installing the gasket, you need to check the volumes of the combustion chambers again and, if necessary, trim the block head.

Every 25 hours of motor operation:

inspect the electrodes of the candles, clean them of carbon deposits, rinse and set the required gap between the electrodes (0.85-1.00)
check the tightness of the outer bolts, screws and nuts, tighten them if necessary. Check the attachment of the control plate to the suspension and the correct tightening of the magdino base screw. (fig. 12). Note. The flywheel nut can be tightened by blowing a hammer on the handle of the wrench.
check the presence of oil in the gearbox through the filler (inspection) hole and the absence of water through the drain hole. Before this, the motor must be kept in an upright position for at least 10 hours.

Every 50 hours of engine operation:

1) lubricate with a few drops of oil or grease the outer friction surfaces (gears and tiller axles, threads of the suspension clamping screws, bearings and springs of the trigger mechanism, etc.) without disassembling the units
2) remove the sump and the fuel pump strainer and rinse them. Flush the carburetor float chamber;
3) change the oil in the gearbox, but at least once a month when the engine is in operation, flushing the editor with gasoline. Pour oil up to the level of the filler plug, about 250 cc. To speed up the filling of the gearbox, it is recommended to warm up the oil to 50-70 ° C.

Check the oil level after keeping the motor in a vertical position for at least 15 minutes. (with hot oil).

Every 100 hours of motor operation:

1) remove the flywheel, the base of the magdino and lubricate the seat of the base on the crankcase cover with constantin or other refractory grease.
Lubricate the top end of the crankshaft, shoes and flywheel bushing with a thin layer of oil.
2) clean the cylinders, block head, pistons, piston rings from carbon deposits. To do this, remove the engine and then the cylinder block.

Piston rings, if removed for cleaning, must be installed in the same order in which they worked;
3) after removing the engine, lubricate the splined joint of the crankshaft with the vertical shaft with refractory grease.

The following method of cleaning carbon deposits without disassembling the engine is recommended. Install the heated engine with the spark plug holes up, put the pistons so that the outlet windows of both cylinders are closed; pour through the spark plug holes into each cylinder a mixture consisting of two parts of acetone, one part of kerosene, one part of engine oil. When the foaming of the mixture stops, screw in the candles and leave the engine in this position for 8-10 hours, then drain the mixture, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes.

After 500 hours of motor operation:

Disassemble the motor for inspection and cleaning of parts. Replace parts with increased wear.

When disassembling and assembling, follow the instructions in the section "Disassembling and assembling the motor".

After repairs with replacement of the main parts, the motor must be run-in according to the running-in mode of the new motor.

For repairs, use only high-quality Veterok motor parts from trusted sellers.

To identify the main faults, it is necessary to measure with an ohmmeter the value of resistance between terminal H1 (Fig. 4 and 5) and "ground" (the minus of the device is connected to the "ground").

The following cases are possible:

the resistance is 0-100 Ohm - either thyristor 6, or diode 4, or capacitor 8 is out of order, the extreme terminals of the storage winding are short-circuited.
resistance is equal to 350-450 Ohm - two adjacent terminals of the storage winding are short-circuited;
the resistance is equal to infinity - a break in the storage winding wire.

Checking other elements of the ignition system can only be carried out with the use of appropriate devices in household appliances workshops.

Table of resistance values at various points of the circuit (Fig. 5).

* Resistance values when measured with an ohmmeter with an input resistance of at least 20 kOhm.

Boat handling and rules

Changing the speed of the boat is carried out by changing the operating mode of the motor. To increase the boat speed, the tiller handle must be turned towards full throttle (counterclockwise), and to decrease the speed, towards idle: Changing the boat's direction of movement is carried out by smoothly turning the motor around the vertical axis behind the tiller.

Sharp turns must be done at low engine speeds.

The operation of the engine is permitted on boats in accordance with the "Rules for Inland Navigation" and with the rules for sailing in water bodies in the area.

You should always have candles and board tools in the boat. The boat must be equipped with oars, drainage and life-saving equipment. When going out at night, it is necessary to have warning lights in accordance with the rules of sailing.

DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY OF THE WIND MOTOR

If necessary, it is recommended to disassemble the motor and its assemblies in the following sequence. When disassembling, remember the position of the parts before disassembling. The motor should be disassembled only to the extent determined by the purpose of disassembly.

Disassembly into units

1. Remove the upper motor cover.
2. Disconnect and remove the hose from the fuel pump, carburetor, purge port cover.
3. Unscrew the nuts and remove the carburetor.
4. Unscrew the wires from the candles and unscrew the candles.
5. Unscrew the screws securing the fuel pump and remove the pump.
6. Unscrew the screws securing the inlet pipe and remove it together with the trigger.
7. Remove the valve bulkhead.
8. Unscrew the flywheel mounting nut and remove it with a puller.
9. Unscrew the nut securing the transformer bracket, loosen the fixing screw of the Magdino base and remove the base together with the transformers.
10. Remove the screws securing the intermediate housing to the engine and disconnect the engine.
eleven.Unscrew the screws securing the clamp of the lower suspension springs, disconnect the intermediate housing from the suspension and remove the springs.
12. Disconnect the shift rod from the lever.
13. Unscrew the fastening bolts and disconnect the gearbox from the intermediate housing.

1. Unfasten the screws and remove the exhaust cover and bulkhead.
2. Unscrew the screws securing the blow-out window inserts and remove the inserts.
3. Unscrew the nuts securing the block head, remove the head and the gasket.
4. Unscrew the screws securing the crankcase with the block. Remove the block.
5. Remove the connecting rod cap bolts, remove the caps and rollers. Do not confuse the rollers of the two connecting rods during storage and assembly.
6. Connect the connecting rod caps to the connecting rods. Mark on the pistons their position in the block (upper or lower).
7. Unscrew the screws securing the crankcase cover. Press the crankshaft out of the crankcase after unscrewing the center support fixing screw.

Disassembly of the trigger

1. Hold the stop 8 with a screwdriver (Fig. 9), pull out the pin 9, and then smoothly lower the spring.
2. Unscrew the upper bearing screws, remove the bearing and pulley.
3. Remove the spring of the mechanism with stops.

Dismantling the suspension

1. Unscrew the screws and remove the lock 59 (Fig. 3), pull the pipe 65 out of the bracket, remove the sleeve bearings.
2. Unscrew the screws of the connecting plate and the bracket bolt, disassemble the suspension.

Disassembly of the underwater part

1. Unscrew the four screws and remove the pump casing together with the bearing cup, vertical shaft, rod, fork and driven coupling.
2. Knock out the pin connecting the drive coupling with the shaft, remove the coupling and the vertical shaft.
3. Unscrew the two nuts securing the spacer with the gearbox housing, detach the housing.
4. Press the pinion out of the spacer.
5. Remove the propeller cap, drive out the pin, and remove the propeller.
6. Remove the retaining ring and, knocking with a wooden hammer on the gearbox housing, remove the horizontal shaft with the driven gear and bearing, the stuffing box cup.
7. Remove the oil seal cup and rubber ring.
8. Press the bearing off the gear, drive out the pin and remove the gear.

Assembling the Veterok motor

Assemble the motor in the reverse order of disassembly. Before assembling the engine, clean all removed parts by rinsing in clean gasoline and dry. When assembling, lubricate the rubbing surfaces of the parts with oil.

When pressing in the crankshaft, ensure that the groove of the middle support and the fixing screw on the crankcase match. To do this, place steel gaskets 1.8 mm thick between the upper end of the middle support and the crankshaft cheek, which, after pressing in the shaft, remove them. The crankcase cover 7 (Fig. 3) must be installed so that its side hole for supplying lubricant to the upper support of the crankshaft coincides with the hole in the crankcase. Preheat the crankcase to 70-80 ° С.

When assembling the connecting rods, place the cap bolts on bakelite varnish or BF-2 glue, lubricate the threads with it. The threads in the connecting rods and on the bolts must first be thoroughly cleaned of oil by washing in clean gasoline. The tightening torque of the connecting rod bolts must be 13 - 14 N m (1.3 - 1.4 kgf: m).

When assembling the connecting rods and the middle bearing of the crankshaft, pay attention to the alignment of the halves of the lower connecting rod head and the halves of the housing along the fracture line and their cleanliness.

For ease of assembly, pre-lay the rollers in the connecting rods and clips, lubricating them with grease. The piston must be installed so that the piston ring retainer points up.

Before installing the base of the Magdino, lubricate the seat of the crankcase cover with UT grease (constantin fat), GOST 1957-73. Tighten the screw (fig. 12) so that the base rotates with some friction (see the section "Ignition system").

Tighten the block head fastening nuts in the order shown in the diagram (Fig. 13), gradually (at least in two steps).

When fixing transformers, do not overtighten the fixing screws to avoid damage to the housings and covers.

When assembling the underwater part, it is necessary to ensure free rotation of the driving gear and the propeller shaft, the correct gearing of the gears and the lateral clearance between the teeth within 0.16-0.35 mm, as well as the reliability of sealing the cavity of the underwater part.

The gearing is adjusted using gaskets between the gear housing and the spacer, as well as by selecting the thickness of the washer between the shoulder of the housing and bearing 205.

To facilitate adjustment, the total thickness of the gaskets is selected so that the distance between the spacer with gaskets and the thrust end of the drive gear is 7.1-7.5 mm.

Check the correct meshing of the gears as follows: remove the driven gear together with the horizontal shaft, lubricate the teeth of the driven gear with a thin layer of paint and reassemble.

Turn the drive gear 3-4 times and disassemble. Based on the traces of the contact of the teeth, determine the value of their engagement along the length. The mismatch of the ends of the teeth on the outer diameter of the gears should be no more than 0.5 mm.

On the assembled gearbox, when turning the drive gear quickly, there should be no sharp noise.

Install the water pump impeller so that its blades point counterclockwise (fig. 14).

When installing a new pump, the impeller preload in the housing along the hub height should be within 0.3-0.6 mm.

Before installing the engine, adjust the position of the shift clutch as follows:

put the shift knob in the "stroke" position, engage the clutch, pulling up the rod and turning the vertical shaft by 0.5 - 1 turn; then, screwing or unscrewing the rod, align its bent end with the hole in the lever and assemble.

When installing the tiller, it is necessary to align the carburetor throttle lever roller with the arrow stamped on the Magdino base cam, and the "start" arrow on the tiller with a white mark on the tiller handle. When turning the tiller handle towards full throttle p, about the stop, the carburetor throttle valve must be fully open.

The throttle position is adjusted by turning the actuator lever relative to the throttle.

When assembling the trigger, do not skew the bearings of the mechanism, which can cause the pulley to jam.

By tightening or unscrewing screw 1 (Fig. 15), set gear 4 so that there is a gap between the ends of the gear teeth and the flywheel within 3-7 mm. and the upper end of the gear was at the same level or higher up to 1.5 mm relative to the upper edge of one of the holes of the pulley 3. Lock the screw 1 with the nut 6. Then wind the cord tightly around the pulley and, keeping the pulley from turning, tighten (with a screwdriver at the stop) the inner put the spring 5-6 turns counterclockwise into the pulley hole (through the stop groove) pin 2.

The lateral clearance between the teeth should be no more than 0.4 mm (adjusted by moving the bearings of the trigger mechanism using metal spacers 5).

How to improve the performance of the Veterok-8 motor - two options modernization and revision of the domestic outboard motor "Veterok"

In the design of this, in general, excellent motor, there are minor flaws that are easy to fix yourself.

Despite the fact that the Veterok outboard motor has a special screw in the carburetor's float chamber, it is not so easy to drain the gasoline from there - for this you have to remove the carburetor.

I drilled a hole in the sump of the Veterok motor shroud opposite the specified screw and installed a brass thumbscrew in it. Draining the sludge has become much more convenient.

Although the main jet adjusting screw is knurled on the head, adjustment is only possible with a screwdriver. While the motor is running, this is not very convenient, especially since the screw is located in the depth of the pallet. Also, it is not known how open the jet is.

I soldered an extension with a handwheel head that you can turn with your fingers to the jet of the jet.The handwheel is marked with risks, thanks to which it is possible to control the degree of opening of the jet.

Adjustment of gas and ignition timing is not as smooth as, for example, in "Moscow". It takes a lot of effort for the lever to start opening the throttle, so it's difficult to keep the middle speed - either at low speed or at full speed. Having slightly cut down the hump of the lever, I achieved a smoother adjustment.