DIY yamaha plm repair

In detail: DIY Yamaha plm repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Outboard motors were invented at the beginning of the 20th century. For the first time, the American Ol Evinrud began to make them. Over the decades, these motors have gained immense popularity, and many manufacturers have emerged who are constantly improving their products. Among them was the Japanese company Yamaha, which today produces some of the best outboard motors in the world. The range of engines is very wide, from the smallest for small boats to large ones with a capacity of several hundred horsepower. Next, let's talk about Yamaha outboard engines in more detail.

All motors break down sooner or later, even very high quality ones. In order for this to happen less often or not at all, maintenance of Yamaha outboard motors must be performed within a clearly established time frame and according to the algorithm established by the manufacturer. Most Yamaha engines are made up of the following parts (composition may vary by model):

Engine cover.
Steering friction adjusting screw.
Anti-cavitation plate.
Propeller screw.
Trim angle adjusting rod.
Clamping bracket.
Tiller.
Start handle.
Rope attachment.
Air damper carburetor.
Gear shift knob.

In order to perform maintenance on a Yamaha outboard motor, you need to adhere to the following algorithm:

Removal, disassembly and cleaning of the engine carburetor. This is done in order to optimally tune the ignition system and the carburetor itself.
Cleaning the fuel system. The procedure must be performed regularly, as this is a guarantee of low fuel consumption by the boat engine. Oil, pieces of dirt or water can enter the tank and system with gasoline.
Maintenance of Yamaha outboard motors includes, among other things, the procedure for changing the oil in the gearbox. Moreover, as the certified specialists of the manufacturer recommend, this should be done as often as possible, without waiting for the oil to turn into an emulsion and the engine power begins to drop.
After the above maintenance steps, you can prepare the engine for operation and adjust the ignition and carburetor. These two systems, ideally, should work flawlessly, since engine power and optimal fuel consumption directly depend on them. Yamaha outboard motor service should include this item.

Video (click to play).

When working, you should always remember about safety measures. You can read more about them in the Engine and Boat Operation Manual. If you trust specialists, and they are professionals, to maintain Yamaha outboard motors, then the workers will do everything for you.

People are forced to carry out repairs if Yamaha outboard motors are not serviced on time or in an abnormal situation. The repair procedure involves a more detailed diagnosis of the engine and its components. First of all, in order to find out the nature of the breakdown, specialists will carry out computer diagnostics of the engine in the service center. This is done at special stands using proprietary equipment. Routine maintenance of your Yamaha outboard motor does not involve this procedure.

In order to carry out diagnostics, you must first remove the engine from the boat. This action must be carried out carefully and in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements. It is important to take into account in which position the motor can be placed on the surface to prevent gasoline or oil from leaking from it. Engines often have stickers with similar instructions.

After removal, disassembly of the engine follows.Repairing Yamaha outboard motors is not easy, so it is recommended that you have it serviced by a qualified service technician. Often, special keys and tools are needed for disassembly, which are only available in service centers. Also, many parts may have a warranty seal that cannot be removed for warranty service. After the engine has been disassembled, the next stage of repairing Kiev Yamaha outboard motors is a defect finding. This term should be understood as an assessment of the suitability of individual engine parts. That is, what should be replaced, what should be repaired, and what should be left as is. Troubleshooting should be carried out by an experienced specialist or a group of specialists, each of whom is responsible for his own group of parts.

Overhaul Is the process of restoring engine performance. After the analysis of all the details has been made, you can proceed directly to the overhaul. To do this, it must be removed from the boat and completely disassembled (we discussed this above). It is also advisable to rinse the parts in order to free them from dirt and oil, as well as for a better visual inspection. Of course, repairing Yamaha outboard motors will not be complete without analyzing the cylinder block. This procedure includes determining the backlash, geometry and cylinder size. For this, special devices are used: internal meters, probes or dies. After the analysis has been carried out, a decision is made on the boring of the cylinder block. After boring, as a rule, honing is done, that is, high-precision abrasive processing of the block surface.

This is followed by the repair of the cylinder head. It is also better to entrust this procedure to professionals from the service center, because this requires special knowledge, tools and equipment. Repairing a Yamaha outboard motor gearbox is not as difficult as repairing an outboard motor. Therefore, most shipowners can do it themselves. The main requirement here is tightness. After all the above procedures have been completed, the worn out parts are replaced with new ones, and the broken ones are repaired, the engine is assembled. This process is the opposite of disassembly in sequence. Repair of outboard motors is a breeze Yamaha, as described above, it is best to delegate a certified technician. Boat motors with the unassuming name "Veterok" are quite popular old engines, as a rule, still of Soviet production. You can find a lot of good literature on their repair, as well as DIY specialists, in contrast to the professional Yamaha. There are electronic versions of books on the Internet that describe the device, operation and repair of a boat motor is a breeze. Yamaha gives out similar books when buying a motor.

So, after assembling the engine, it needs to be installed on the boat. This procedure is the opposite of the stripping process. You can read about this in detail in the operation manual, or, again, delegate this to specialists. After the engine is installed on the watercraft, it must be filled with gasoline and oil. Which brands of these fluids to use is described in detail in the engine operating instructions.

So, in this article, we briefly examined the algorithms by which you need to carry out maintenance and repair of Yamaha boat engines. These motors of a wonderful Japanese company have proven their quality and reliability many times. But, like any mechanism, they also need care. If you regularly perform maintenance, as well as change oil and consumables, then, undoubtedly, the engine will serve you a long and loyal service.

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Below are the optimum RPM ranges for the outboard motors at full throttle and maximum boat load. The engine speed when the boat is moving and with a properly selected propeller should be within the upper half of the specified range.

Select screws that meet these requirements.

2-STROKE OUTBOARD MOTORS

9.9F, 15F, E9.9D, E15D, EK9.9D, EK15D, EK9.9J, EK15P

E25B, 25B, E30H, 30H, 25X, EK25B, EK25C

55D, E60J, E65A, 75A, E75B, 75C, 85A, 90A

Z150P, Z175G, Z200N, Z150Q, Z175H, Z200P

0 * Left-hand propeller models have the same optimum RPM as right-hand propeller motors.

4-STROKE OUTBOARD MOTORS

F40D, F50F, FT50G, F60C, FT60D

F75B, F75C, F80B, F80C, F90B, F100D

F / FL200C, F / FL225B, F225C, F / FL250A, F / FL250B

If engine RPM exceeds recommended, replace propeller with a larger pitch propeller.

If engine RPM is lower than recommended, replace the propeller with a smaller pitch propeller.

Do not allow the engine to run at more than the recommended speed for prolonged periods of time, as this may damage the engine.

0 * A 25 mm change in propeller pitch will result in a 200 RPM change in engine speed.

In addition, the change in speed depends on the type of propeller, water (salt / fresh), type of vessel (mass and shape of the hull), etc.

0 * When the engine is lifted using the hydraulic lift system, the maximum engine speed will increase.

This topic is perhaps one of the most relevant today, which is quite understandable. Long gone are the days when mainly domestic "Neptunes" and "Whirlwinds" roamed the water, and the appearance of spare parts laid out on the shore and repairs carried out, as they say, "on the knee" were perceived as the norm of life. Now a similar picture can be observed mainly in the outback. The situation has changed dramatically. The market offers the Russian consumer an almost full range of the latest water-motor equipment from abroad. The availability of engines from the world's leading manufacturers raises a number of questions, and our task is to understand them.

The first question and, perhaps, the main one, which, unfortunately, for most motor owners simply does not arise: how to choose the right propeller? This does not directly apply to engine repair, but it is extremely important to ensure the most favorable operating conditions for the engine as a whole and increase its resource. In other words, a correctly selected screw can reduce the likelihood of a malfunction, and therefore avoid the repair itself. The fact is that any outboard or stationary engine has a certain rpm range, in which it will develop maximum power and at the same time have optimal fuel consumption. Going beyond this range in one direction or another leads to a decrease in engine performance and an increase in fuel consumption.

There are a number of motors, the connection of tachometers to which is not structurally provided. In this case, when carrying out the test, it is necessary to use special tachometers that allow reading information from high-voltage spark plug wires. And to do this, you will have to again contact a service center equipped with a similar tool. And one more note: the standard propellers that come with the motor are usually matched exactly according to the results of such a test, but remember that your equipment (motor, propeller, boat, load) may become an exception to the rule.

Suppose that by selecting the propeller we have created the conditions for the engine for normal operation. But technique is technique, and breakdowns are still possible. True, there is a difference between breakage and breakdown. Therefore, let's try to figure out how to behave in a given situation. We will immediately exclude the option when the life and health of people depend on the performance of the motor - any interventions are permissible here. We will only consider the issues of current repairs.

It turns out that even a normally running motor requires periodic maintenance. Can you do it yourself? There is no definite answer, and here's why. If you are a technically competent person with experience in dealing with such equipment, and the motor is under warranty, it is advisable to obtain permission for scheduled maintenance from your nearest dealer. Most likely, such permission will be given, and then - down with self-confidence. Begin by carefully reading the instruction manual. In the list of routine maintenance, items are possible that are intended only for your specific motor. Lubricants and equipment used for servicing must be original.

After the expiration of the warranty period, the frequency and quality of maintenance remain on your conscience, although you will most likely not be able to completely avoid communicating with service workers. In the list of routine maintenance specified in the operating instructions, there are those that require high qualifications, special tools and technical documentation. As for the various adjustments, the instruction limits the degree of intervention. You should be especially careful with carburetor settings. Excessively high idle speeds can lead to damage to gearbox parts due to the more severe shock mode when shifting gears. Incorrect adjustment of the mixture quality will lead to a deterioration in the engine operating conditions, which can entail quite serious consequences. I strongly advise against synchronizing carburetors of four-stroke engines - without a special tool and a certain skill, the result will be negative. And one more tip: do not neglect the preservation of the engine (the procedure is described in detail in the instructions) and proper transportation, especially of four-stroke.

Repair associated with the replacement of any engine components or requiring serious diagnostics directly depends on the degree of technical training of the motor owner and equipment. The range of engines currently used on boats is diverse: they are simple carburetor engines, fuel injection systems for four-stroke and two-stroke engines, with OptiMax systems from Mercury and HPDI systems from Yamaha, and with various lubrication systems. All this requires constant professional retraining even from full-time mechanics. Of course, the owner of the motor is not faced with such a task, but he will not receive complete technical documentation for his motor anywhere. It is outlined in the "Service Manual" - a book used by mechanics. It does not go on sale. And if it will probably be possible to understand low-power carburetor motors, and flaws in the repair will not cause consequences, then a sane person himself will not approach a large motor, as "packed" as possible with electronics. And with all due respect to the craftsmen, I do not advise you to trust the engine to a master from a nearby garage. It is your motor that may be structurally different from those that it has successfully repaired before.

There is one more question, the answer to which must be found before proceeding with the repair: do you have a special tool? Having been engaged in the service of imported motors for far from the first year, I have seen enough and heard enough of everyone, but more often they say one thing: “Yes, I didn't have to do it myself. And how much will it cost now? " There is only one rule: if none of the tools you know are suitable for removing or unscrewing a part, stop - most likely a special tool is required for this procedure. I will say more, the tool that you think is suitable can affect the parts precisely in those places that cannot be loaded. In this case, you will not only break the part, but also significantly complicate the subsequent repair.

What I would like to draw the readers' attention to is the problem of spare parts. Where to get them, use "relatives" or find something suitable, does a worn part need to be replaced or will it still serve? In my practice, there was one motor on which an anti-corrosion anode, not original, but cheap, lasted longer than the engine, but at the same time had a very good presentation. Do not assume that all non-original spare parts are rubbish. There are also very worthy manufacturers. But, in my opinion, if there is an opportunity, it is better, instead of wasting energy, time, and therefore money on finding suitable ones, to contact technical specialists and be confident in the quality of the spare parts purchased. This, incidentally, also applies to oils.In addition, experts will advise which parts you need to purchase in a particular case, since quite often spare parts need to be changed in a bundle.

Replacing one part will not always correct the problem. A number of gaskets, lock washers, oil seals must be changed during repair, even if they are outwardly in good condition. As for the clearances, permissible beats, torques and tightening sequence, then in this case it is better to get professional advice, at least by phone, e-mail or regular mail.

It is quite widely believed that it makes sense to purchase the simplest carburetor motors so that you can troubleshoot yourself. This is only partly true. Engines of small and medium power do not require complex technical solutions, but talking about the simplicity of high power motors, even if they are carburetor ones, is incorrect. In order to save gasoline and optimize the quality of the mixture, the fuel systems and ignition systems of such engines are quite complicated, which reduces their advantage over injection or the same OptiMax to a minimum. And given the best power and weight indicators of the latter and their efficiency, the question disappears by itself. Indeed, caution should be exercised when approaching fundamentally new and heavily compressed models. I will say more: complex motors, as a rule, have a protection system that notifies about faults that have occurred and changes the operating mode in such a way as not to damage the engine and at the same time operate it. A complicated-looking engine is often much easier to operate than a carburetor of the same power. Unfortunately, in this matter, many are still very conservative - the engine is frightening, the fear of the electronics with which the injection motors are equipped.

Considering all of the above, I highly recommend making repairs, adjustments and routine maintenance at a certified service center. It is certified. If, for financial reasons or because of the territorial remoteness from such a center, you are forced to carry out repairs yourself, then, again, it is still necessary to consult a specialist.

Within the framework of one or even several articles, it is impossible to outline all the subtleties of repairing an engine. But there are general trends in the maintenance of certain nodes. The table above lists the main points that must be taken into account when starting a repair.

D. Semenov, service manager, Mercury-NII TM, CJSC.

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Dedicated to owners of outboard motors and all those who are going to buy a boat motor. Even if you are well versed in the structure of a car engine, it is not a fact that you can cope with a common outboard motor malfunction or be able to successfully diagnose this malfunction. But don't worry, we will help you.

Most owners of inflatable boats with motors take very careful care of the boat, but as far as the motor is concerned, they think that the outboard motor either works or not. If it does not work, then you need to immediately call a familiar mechanic.

Of course, all modern outboard motors of famous brands such as Yamaha, Tohatsu, Mercury, Honda are distinguished by a high degree of reliability and do not require constant intervention. But the truth is that the motor will run longer and better if it is serviced periodically. If you carry out routine maintenance work on the engine once a year (you regularly service your car), such as: cleaning, checking, changing the oil, treating parts from corrosion, this will significantly increase its service life and improve its running characteristics.

Let's take a closer look at these very jobs, the description of which was compiled on the basis of the Yamaha outboard motor service program.

We recommend using a pistol-type syringe or small tubes to lubricate the outboard motor. The grease should be used type “A”, which is resistant to seawater.
If you operate the motor mainly in salt water, we recommend that you lubricate it once a month. Apply the lubricant locally according to the instruction manual for your outboard motor.
Pump the new grease until the grease appears first, and then the new one. Then stop pumping. Swivel joints do not need to be rotated.
Pay particular attention to the lubrication of the lower assembly. If the grease does not come out of it, you should put a stop under the blower and apply more forces to pump the grease.
After the outboard motor lubrication procedure, be sure to remove excess lubricant.

If you are the owner of a Yamaha outboard motor, then you are in principle in luck. These motors are supplied with two sets of attachments that facilitate access to the lubrication points. There is a nozzle for lubricating the gearshift mechanism, which is located under the motor head. To gain access to the gearshift assembly, you will most likely need to disconnect the switch rods. It is recommended annually to remove the power steering link bar from its tube and lubricate it.
Remove the screw nut, screw, and end sleeve from the screw shaft. Inspect the shaft carefully. It should be free of scuffs and wear marks. A worn end bushing should be replaced. Inspect the screw shaft seals. Fishing line is often stuffed there. Then lubricate the screw shaft, replace the bushing and install the screw. Tighten the screw nut half a turn more than you can tighten it simply by hand.

To drain the oil from the gearbox, first remove the upper plug, then the lower one. Inspect the condition of the O-rings on the plugs. On the magnet on the bottom plug, metal particles can accumulate. It is normal for a new motor to have small amounts of metal particles. If the motor is not new and you find a large amount of metal particles on the bottom plug. Change oil. Let the motor run for 10 hours and check the oil again. If the situation has not changed and the chips continue to appear, then you should contact the service center of the motor manufacturer. If you find cloudy stains in the drained oil, similar to coffee with milk, you should also drain the oil, fill in new oil, let the engine run and check the oil again. These stains are the result of water leaking through the seals. If a burning smell comes from a running engine, then this is also not good and you should contact the service center.

Fill the gearbox with fresh grease through the bottom hole. Once you see oil leaking out of the top hole, plug the bottom hole with your finger and replace the top plug. And then the bottom one.

If you notice that the motor does not rise or fall poorly, or even spontaneously lowers, then you should check the fluid level in the hydraulic system of the motor lowering / raising drive. To do this, the motor must be lifted up and fixed in this position. Then check the level. It must reach the bottom of the inspection hole. If the level is lower, top up. A liquid like Dextron ATF is suitable.
When servicing four-stroke outboard motors, change the oil filter as well when changing the oil.

Be sure to mark each one before removing the terminals from the spark plugs. Which one goes to which contact. All contacts usually look exactly the same.
When buying a boat motor, a diagnostic table is included with it. It will help you find and diagnose the problem you are experiencing. (Boat engine spark plugs).

If, during the check, significant discrepancies with the passport data are noticed, you should check the compression in the cylinders of your outboard motor. If it differs by more than 10%, the motor needs repair and adjustment.

When replacing spark plugs, buy only the specified plug type.Always carry a spare set of candles with a socket wrench to remove them in stock.

After installing the plug, first tighten it by hand, and then tighten it another 1/4 turn with a wrench. We recommend lubricating the tip of the spark plug to facilitate the subsequent removal of the contact.

When replacing the fuel filter, install it with the arrow pointing to the right (towards the engine). The shape of a fuel filter is similar to a small can and often also acts as a water separator. If the fuel system has a separate water separator, replace that filter as well. And put the current date on the body of this filter. Carefully fill the fuel filter with fuel before installing. (Caring for an engine with a fuel injection system). You should also replace the bulb pump. Gray pear pumps are more UV resistant and will last longer. If your inflatable boat and outboard motor are accordingly stored for a long time without operation, it is recommended to add a stabilizer to the fuel.

To service the water jet pump, we strongly recommend contacting the service center or to professionals who have already repaired boat motors more than once.

If the fasteners on the deyduv are old, then it will be very difficult to remove it. First, remove the bolts from the deyduv, which are located just above the anti-cavitation plate. We recommend that you do this work together.

Sometimes it is necessary to remove the pin under the carburetor that goes through the shift rod. We can assure you that this will not be so easy to do.

New impellers are included in repair kits for water cannons, but before replacing it, carefully study the instructions and diagram in the user manual. Install all parts strictly in the order in which you removed them.

Be sure to clean all seating surfaces and replace all seals.

Before starting the motor with a new impeller for the first time, apply a water-repellent lubricant to the impeller chamber from the inside. This will protect the impeller from being melted by hot gases when starting the motor.

It is imperative that before each use of the outboard motor and boat, make sure that it is securely attached to the transom, check the fastenings of the steering rod control system, throttle control rods and gear shifting.

Inspect the fuel system. Are there any leaks in it. Does the smoke come from where it shouldn't come from?

Treat and repair damage and chips of the motor housing immediately. This will protect the motor from corrosion.

Never paint zinc anodes. Cover the bonnet with wax and polish.

Always store the engine with a full tank of fuel.

This manual is intended for use by Yamaha service personnel who repair and service Yamaha equipment. To use this manual, you must have a basic knowledge of mechanics and electrical engineering, as well as skills in these areas. Attempts to carry out repairs or maintenance without this knowledge may result in an accident or damage to the equipment.
Since Yamaha is constantly working to improve its products, therefore, your motor parts may not fully match the descriptions or illustrations in this book. Use only the most recent version of the manual. Yamaha authorized dealers are periodically notified of design, specification or repair changes, all of which will be included in the next revision of this manual.

Content
1. General information
2. Specifications
3. Periodic checks and adjustments
4. Power system
5. Engine
6. Deadwood, reducer
7. Bracket
8. Electrical system
9. Troubleshooting

Manual format
All procedures in this guide are presented in a step-by-step format. The information is presented in such a way that it is easy to read, all the necessary explanations are provided for all disassembly, repair, assembly and inspection operations.
For example, first the component is indicated, then its possible state (malfunction) and after the arrow, the actions to be taken.To help you find the information you need in the manual, section icons and important headings have been moved to the top of the page (header).

Engine model indication
Model 25VMN 30NMN
Designation 25VMN 30NMN

Illustrations
The illustrations in this manual are for all of the above models.

Cross-references
Cross-references have been kept to a minimum and will point you to the correct paragraph or section.

Outboard motor gearbox created for reducing the speed of rotation of the propeller in relation to the rotation speed of the crankshaft of the engine to ensure optimal transmission of power from the engine to the propeller. Typically, the reduction ratio is about 2 (written as 2.0: 1). Rotation from the engine crankshaft to the propeller is transmitted through a vertical shaft, bevel gears with a circular tooth to the propeller shaft. More details are shown below.

Reducer - the most complex mechanism boat motor, which, if handled correctly, serves for years, and we do not see what is happening inside him and for the most part do not even know how it works.

But still, it is better to look inside the gearbox of the outboard motor and see how it all works, interacts, and know how it works.

To find out what's what of this heap of parts, you need to look at the assembly diagram of the outboard motor gearbox. In the case of a complete disassembly of the gearbox, do not even think about trying to assemble it without a circuit, especially if the work is done "under the beer".

Repair of the gearbox of any outboard motor it is quite capable of doing it on their own by any boatman or motorboat, not to mention the waterboat.
Service manuals describe exclusively the use of all sorts of special removers and special keys, but you can do with improvised means if you have direct hands.

In order to understand how the gearbox works on a boat motor, it is enough to look at the main nodes and their interaction.

1. Coupling. This part is located on the propeller shaft splines - it rotates with the shaft (and transmits torque to the propeller shaft). It slides freely back and forth along the shaft. The clutch has two teeth on each side for meshing with forward or reverse gears.

2. In this photo, the clutch is in the “neutral” position on the propeller shaft.

3. Forward and reverse gears. The clutch teeth align with the corresponding recess of the forward or reverse gears to provide the desired direction of rotation. When the clutch meshes with one of the gears, power is transmitted to the propeller shaft.

4. The two gears rotate freely on the shaft while the clutch is in neutral.
The forward gear has a hole and oil channels for lubrication in the place of its landing on the shaft. The reverse gear has a bronze bushing to reduce wear. it rotates freely on the shaft when the boat is moving forward, and this is 99% of the use of the boat.

5. A small gear is mounted on the vertical drive shaft from the motor. It constantly rotates 2 gears of the gears, which rotate freely on the shaft in opposite directions.

6. To move the clutch, a lever connected through a rod is used. In the photo, the clutch is connected to the reverse gear. Rotation is transmitted from the top gear to the reverse gear and through the clutch to the propeller shaft. At the same time, the forward gear rotates freely on the shaft. To turn on the forward motion, you need to pull the rod and move the clutch to the other side - to engage with the forward gear.

To the left of the clutch, on the propeller shaft, the support bearing assembly is visible (closed from the outside with oil seals).

Message Captain "24 Jul 2015, 14:35

Message still »27 Jul 2015, 10:53

Message still »27 Jul 2015, 11:43

Message still »27 Jul 2015, 12:14

Message still »05 Aug 2015, 20:07

Message Vlad_blg »23 Aug 2015, 14:28

Message still »23 Aug 2015, 18:37

Message Vlad_blg »24 Aug 2015, 08:14

Message alko »24 Aug 2015, 08:21

Message Vlad_blg »24 Aug 2015, 08:35

Message Captain "24 Jul 2015, 14:35

Message still »27 Jul 2015, 10:53

Message still »27 Jul 2015, 11:43

Message still »27 Jul 2015, 12:14

Message still »05 Aug 2015, 20:07

Message Vlad_blg »23 Aug 2015, 14:28

Message still »23 Aug 2015, 18:37

Message Vlad_blg »24 Aug 2015, 08:14

Message alko »24 Aug 2015, 08:21

Message Vlad_blg »24 Aug 2015, 08:35

Hello everyone. Has anyone done such a procedure as disassembling and assembling the Yamaha 60F 2t crankshaft. During the operation of the engine, a sound came from the engine and it was decided to disassemble the engine.After opening, it turned out that there was a play on the connecting rod and it was decided to disassemble the crankshaft. Dismantled and really the connecting rod requires replacement together with a pin and a separator. The connecting rod, together with a separator and a finger, is purchased. The person who took up such a responsible work is calm and says that it is not the first time for him to do this. An assembly is scheduled for tomorrow and I want to hear from the members of the forum what nuances there might be.

I think how he will set the degrees. As far as I understand, it is necessary to set 3x120 degrees. And I don’t understand exactly how to do this.

Ask not to do it without you.

Yes, he is at my work and will collect. On the contrary, I want to remove those extra eyes so that they do not blurt out under the arm.

jack79 24 Sep 2015

Your topic is interesting, the yamaha 50 2t crankshaft itself has to be repaired. I got worn 2 pistons went without oil. Replacing the pistons did not help. A knee pulled away from the wedge.

Where in St. Petersburg can a crankshaft be repaired?

I think how he will set the degrees. As far as I understand, it is necessary to set 3x120 degrees. And I don’t understand exactly how to do this.

With a dividing head, there are no problems.

VASYa2011 24 Sep 2015

With a dividing head, there are no problems.

You are so sure. What is the accuracy of the dividing head?
I did it on Vikhr30, there are two cylinders and splines, that is, the KV is collapsible (there is a tightening bolt).
After preliminary assembly in the centers and on ICh (three), the whole thing was checked, I remember with a copper hammer
weave were "caught", finally pulled together and again in the center.
On Neptune 23, there is something similar (press assembly), so only with the appropriate rigging (conductor) and all one sweat from the center and IC for control.

kaa39518 24 Sep 2015

You are so sure. What is the accuracy of the dividing head?

Sufficient for this job.

Well, everything was assembled and started. The engine runs quieter than before the repair. The final tests will be on the water tomorrow.

jack79 25 Sep 2015

[quote name = ”kosuk71 ″ post =” 1811940 ″ timestamp = ”1443114024 ″]

Well, everything was assembled and started. The engine runs quieter than before the repair. Final tests will be on the water tomorrow. [/ Quote
Hello

How did you disassemble and assemble?

Pullers were made from a plate with a thickness of 16 mm and were disassembled with the help of them. For the assembly, I had to make more adaptations and with the help of 2 pcs clamping bolts with a diameter of 18 mm, special steel with fine thread, pull everything down to a pile. Before disassembly, we measured all the dimensions and sketched. I thought that we would first assemble three pairs and then we would join them together, but not like that. started walking from one side and ended it. From where to start you need to carefully review and understand which removers are needed where. On the crankshaft yokes there is a 10mm calibration hole (the truck valve just clearly enters there) in order to set exactly the yoke relative to each other and when pressing two people pulled the tie bolts and one kept turning the valve left and right, and when the connecting rod pair was finally pressed, this valve should not be clamped. In order to disassemble, you need a clear understanding of the process and carefully watch so as not to make trouble. The stripper plates were welded to a large locksmith's table and it was easier to twist the nuts on the tie bolts and the bolt heads interfered and we cut off a part of the bolt hex. there were strippers and people.

Post has been edited by kosuk71: September 25, 2015 - 05:38

In the evening, as planned, they chipped in. We warmed up a little and looked like a low gas and then gradually added a load.The operation of the motor has become quieter and more pleasant than before the repair.

jack79 Sep 26, 2015

A 16mm metal was taken, a square was cut out and a hole of the required diameter was made on a lathe. Then a cutout was made with a grinder to insert the crankshaft into it and two holes for the tie bolts were drilled (initially they used 16mm but re-drilled by 18mm) The tie bar thickness is about 30mm. I will say that for each crankshaft you need to look at it individually, because there may be different ebb tides and diameters. If you have a removed crankshaft, you can drive through the workshops and get advice from different craftsmen. But it is better to look for a person who will do you both analysis and collection. Not everything is so simple with this kind of work.