Naturally, it is unnecessary to put a hardened gasket back (it needs to be replaced), the spring should also be replaced, the valve should be polished, the valve seat should be replaced.
For the provided photos I express my gratitude to YurBor.
Py.Sy. the topic will eventually be edited and supplemented with photos.
Repair of pneumatic guns, rifles, pistols can be carried out independently. This will require care and accuracy when disassembling the device and manipulating parts, replacing them. During repair work, it is possible not only to restore weapons that are in disrepair, but also to improve the quality of their work, in comparison with the original state.
You can independently perform a radical upgrade of weapons by making a new drive:
These rules will also come in handy when upgrading PCP and Glacier pneumatics, more about it later.
If you bought yourself a pneumatics, you should definitely purchase a high pressure pneumatics pump.
Read about the types and names of pistols here.
For information on how to shoot a sniper rifle correctly, see: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2522/obuchenie/snajperskaya.html
If any of the elements are installed incorrectly or do not fit well together, severe air leakage occurs, which degrades the performance of the entire system. The main problem leading to depressurization is the work of the rammer.
It has special rubber rings that fit snugly against the surrounding external and internal parts. If they are not installed, you should cut them out yourself and install them into the system. They are invariably present in modern weapons.
Review material about the air pistol Drozd, read here.
If the owner is not satisfied with the power of the weapon, which the manufacturer has given it, then drastic changes will be required regarding the boring of the heel counter.
In this case, more space is left for the spring by cutting a layer of metal from the inside of the backdrop. Usually the maximum thickness of the cut layer does not exceed 1.5 cm, sometimes a little more.
See also the material on how to handle Diana air rifles here.
If the MO becomes too large, for example, as a result of flattening of elements from high pressure, it will be necessary to replace the ring.
During the systematic pumping of the lever, an extra hole appears in it. It must be removed by inserting a specially made sleeve.
Parts are made from steel. If the manufactured element is larger than the hole, then it is mechanically increased to an even larger size.
This part is attached to the base by welding or soldered. The resulting bearing will have a sliding function, while the lever has a reinforced and reliable support.
It is made of steel. Outside and inside diameters are matched to the surrounding objects. To ensure the highest functionality, a small cut is made using a standard file. Holes are made in the thickness of the ring wall.
They are kept small and symmetrical. They serve to guarantee accurate fixation of the ring and prevent any movement. Studs are driven into the holes, reliably protecting the structure from any displacement.
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Small faults can be rectified by yourself. This is done quickly if you adhere to the following recommendations:
When the seal begins to leak air, it is easiest to simply replace it. When this is not possible, you should not postpone the repair of the weapon. It is enough to put a lining of cardboard or foil under it. To install this element, you need to pull out the seal for a while.
To check if the piston ring needs to be replaced, it is necessary to withdraw the piston itself until a clear visibility of this rubber element is revealed. You need to drop a little spindle oil on the ring. After that, the piston closes and returns to its original position.If oil bubbles appear on the surface at the same time, then the rubber ring needs to be replaced.When a spring-piston air gun is disassembled, it is necessary to lubricate the piston and rubber ring with hyposulfite-molybdenum grease. This will increase the durability of the elements.
When a situation arises when pulling the trigger does not cause a shot, you need to check the quality of the installation of the screw, which serves for the correct functioning of the structure. You should also check the protrusion of the fuse. If it is bent or leans forward strongly, then it needs to be repaired or replaced.To obtain a positive result from the repair of pneumatic weapons it is necessary to carry out all actions carefully, to know the device of an air rifle.
Before upgrading or replacing any elements, you must first measure their optimal parameters and fasten the devices efficiently.
After upgrading or repairing a weapon, it is necessary to carry out constant care for it, then you don't have to worry about problems for a long time. Also check out our article on how to make a bullet trap for the weapons room. Particularly noteworthy is the material on violations of safety requirements when handling weapons.
Good or bad, one way or another, but our people love to shoot, want to shoot, and accordingly, shoot.
The easiest way to do this is from a gas-cylinder pneumatic pistol, which any adult citizen of the country can buy absolutely freely.
After the inevitable, but usually short period of euphoria, for those buyers who do not shove a pistol in the back drawer - that is, for the users themselves - the issues of maintenance and maintenance of the pistol come to the fore.
What the author tries to convey to the public below does not in any way claim to be special novelty or exclusivity and is the result of an analysis of the simplest and most common cases of buyers contacting the seller with claims for cancellations. The ability to eliminate minor faults right on the spot greatly saves both sellers and buyers money and nerves.
I will not consider the problems of “strengthening” and increasing speed, since I believe that the main purpose of a gas pistol is training and practice in shooting, and not hunting, not breaking bottles, and even less self-defense, at least from crows and dogs. For defense against dogs, it is better to have something different, more effective. For example, an ordinary slingshot and a gas canister. It is safer to hit the bottles with a hammer and a brick, and it is more pleasant to shoot at them from some thread of "Makarych". In a gas-cylinder pistol, the speed of a bullet (ball) is specially designed to be small, in technical conditions it is stipulated not less than 70 and not more than 135 m / s. So if, when shooting from 10 meters, the euro bottle remains intact in the event of a bullet hitting it, then the pistol is not considered defective. This was done in order to simplify the process of buying and selling a pistol, and therefore increasing its availability to the population.
Having raised the topic of gas cylinder weapons, I want to say a few words about a specific gas cylinder "gunpowder" or "fuel" - it is carbon dioxide. It is sold “bottled”, i.e. hermetically sealed in small steel cans. The older generation probably remembers similar things for siphons of carbonating water. Typically, cans are short 7-8 grams (these are less and less common) and long 12 grams. Since they differ both in total length and in the length and diameter of the "neck", as well as in the method and depth of the "plug", the needle of the pistol that pierces the "plug" must accordingly differ. To be able to use both types of cans in a set for pistols, for example, some MP-654K, there is a special adapter that fits on the neck of a short can.This adapter is not included in other gun kits.
For ordinary users of gas-cylinder weapons it is quite enough to know that IT DOESN'T SHOOT ON THE STREET IN WINTER. And this is not a defect, SO IT SHOULD BE!
For the advanced - let's take a closer look at the process of firing a shot. The can has walls about 1.5 mm thick; carbon dioxide inside it is initially in a solid form. (It would be more correct to say that the state of carbon dioxide depends on the temperature, the speed of the firing process and the pressure inside the cylinder, and therefore can be either solid, liquid, gaseous, or a mixture of these states.)
As soon as the pressure in the cylinder falls below a certain point (determined by the laws of heat engineering), carbon dioxide quickly melts and evaporates, thereby creating the same excess (in relation to atmospheric) pressure, pushing the bullet along the barrel. Therefore, when the trigger is hit on the firing pin, the valve opens, the pressure in the cylinder drops, and a violent release of gas begins, as a result of which the bullet flies out of the barrel. (In firearms, a similar pressure is created by the combustion of gunpowder or another substance.) However, unlike gunpowder, carbon dioxide is very sensitive to temperature, according to the same laws of heat engineering, at temperatures close to zero Celsius and atmospheric pressure, it greatly loses the rate of evaporation.
According to the same laws of heat engineering, when the gas evaporates, a strong absorption of heat occurs. In our case, the can begins to cool down quickly and evaporation decreases. If you pierce a full can outside the pistol (or when the valve is not closed), the gas begins to escape, the can cools down, becomes covered with frost, flakes and lumps of white carbon dioxide begin to fly out of it, which quickly melt and evaporate in the heat, and the can itself becomes covered with frost even in summer. Roughly the same thing happens in a serviceable pistol when firing quickly, even at room temperature, although to a lesser extent. The can cools down, the speed of the bullet drops. Solid non-evaporated particles of carbon dioxide enter the valve, jam its moving parts, and the valve begins to let gas through. If the shooting is stopped, after a while the evaporation stops, the parts heat up to ambient temperature and the valve is again ready to fire, if, of course, carbon dioxide still remains in the can.
Now you can return to the issue of operability and consider the problems that arise.
DEFECTS and REPAIR of pistols MP-654K:
1. “The valve does not hold gas” is a fairly common defect. Usually the valve seat gasket is to blame for this, it often breaks through with debris or metal shavings, and the valve rests against this shavings, not against the gasket, there is a gap between the valve and the gasket, through which the gas goes forward through the hole for loading the balls. To filter the gas in the shutter there is a special mesh, which, unfortunately, cannot hold all the debris, therefore the service life of the valve seat gasket is completely unpredictable. It happens that the saddle gasket can last for many months, sometimes it starts to poison the gas from the middle of the first spray can.
Another possible reason for the same defect: the gasket is seated and the valve sits with the angle of the rod on the metal of the seat before the gasket is reached - to eliminate this, it is necessary to chamfer the seat. This also happens due to non-grinding of the angle of the valve stem.
Checking the tightness in the case of the MP-654K is very simple: the store with the just inserted cartridge is lowered into a glass or jar of water and kept for half a minute. Often, when firing, particles of debris or non-evaporated carbon dioxide fall between the valve and the gasket and the pistol begins to hiss. Sometimes, after two or three shots, the valve is purged and the tightness is restored.
So, a store with a cylinder in water, bubbles of escaping gas are visible. The method of repair depends on where the gas comes from.It makes no sense to change all the gaskets at once, it is cheaper and more convenient to do this as needed.
The easiest and fastest way is to replace the obturator gasket - the need for this becomes obvious if the bubbles come out of the junction of the cartridge and the store. The main reasons for the rapid failure of the seal gasket are: long-term storage of the pistol with an inserted cartridge and constant attempts to tighten the clamping screw of the cartridge even tighter. The replacement is simple - with an awl we pick out the old crushed gasket, with a mild screwdriver, carefully, starting from the edge, push the new gasket into the obturator. The gasket is taken in a round transparent, although the black ring is square in cross-section. Both are included in the spare parts kit, and sometimes they are sold separately. We press it to the place with the used punctured canister, lubricate it with lithol for better tightness, literally at the tip of the awl. When installing a new full cartridge, do not tighten the clamping screw to the maximum, if there is no gas bubbles in the water, then it is better to even loosen the screw a little (by a quarter of a turn).
In approximately the same way, the gaskets are replaced on the outside of the valve seat (a thin black ring on the outside of the seat) and at the junction of the obturator and the valve body (the head of the store). There the ring is also black, but thick. To do this, you need to make a special screwdriver, the easiest way is to take a screwdriver with replaceable tips. If there are problems with the presence of these new rings, you can simply fill the old rings with a white auto-sealant-gasket, for fixed joints this option is quite suitable. You just need to give the sealant time to polymerize. If the rings are replaced with new ones, it is good to lubricate them with lithol again.
The most expensive, laborious and, alas, a frequent case is when the gas comes out from the front, through the hole for feeding the balls. This is a sure sign of a defective valve seat gasket. It's a shame, but the replaceable saddles that are on sale clearly do not pass pressure control, so not everyone "holds" the gas. Selection and verification is required, which makes such repairs long and costly, and the degree of cost is unpredictable. In principle, the seat sleeve can be knocked out, and the gasket can be simply replaced with a new one, but these gaskets are very rare on the free market. The shape and size of the seat gasket corresponds to the front gasket of the valve (a translucent ring, available in the spare parts), which seals the internal cavity of the valve in front, but they differ in the material from which they are made. To fill the saddle instead of an unusable gasket, Academician Rabinovich recommends using an ether sealant, D. Belyakov - epoxy-rubber glue. It should also be noted that on the pistols of the first releases, the valve seat was of a different design, one-piece, the seat butt was placed separately and had an inner conical surface. Such a gasket is in the MP-651K valve. It is much easier and cheaper to change it, but for some reason it has to be done more often than a modern complex-assembled saddle.
2. Another common defect is the trigger failure, the so-called “descent failure”. Initially, I believed that the reason for this was the incorrect installation of the mainspring, or the deformation of the spring due to improper heat treatment. The thin feather of the spring should be pressed against the copier cam of the cocking lever towards its axis.
Later I came to the conclusion, and at the factory it is believed that the thin feather of the spring is bent due to a ball falling under it, which can get under the feather if there is no gas pressure in the can anymore, but there are balls in the store and the shooter still clicks on descent. This is usually easily identified by traces of copper from the balls on the feather of the black mainspring. Often, when disassembling such a pistol, a ball falls out of it, and the pistol even starts to work. By the way, there have never been such defects at the plant either with the PM or with the Izh-79, which have the same mainspring. The damage can be easily repaired by straightening the spring feather with pliers.
3.The pistol allows you to cock the trigger by pulling the bolt back, which simulates the reloading of a combat pistol. However, if you pull the trigger at the same time, the hammer will “fall” under the bolt and the pistol will be jammed. This is characteristic of the MP-654K, in which a part of the internal ridge of the valve is cut out to accommodate the valve body. It seems quite tricky to deal with such a delay without the habit. Nevertheless, “sinking the trigger under the bolt” should not serve as a reason for sending the pistol to the factory, since it can be easily eliminated on its own: you need to remove the magazine, grip the ramrod from the pneumatic weapon, pull the bolt back and, pressing the trigger through the barrel bore, cock it before being put on a combat platoon. After that, the shutter and trigger start to work normally.
Sometimes you come across pistols in which the bolt does not retrace, but is jammed by the trigger. Most likely, the reason is too small a cocking angle of the trigger, which may be in violation of the drawing dimensions of the sear and trigger. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to cut off the top of the trigger and the bevel of the bolt ridge, so that the bevel seems to cocked the trigger when the bolt moves forward.
4. Some time ago, there was a batch of pistols in which the trigger was not put on a combat platoon by hand. The reason was simple: for some reason, the sear spring became a couple of millimeters larger in diameter. On the PM, this is most likely imperceptible, but on the MR-654K, this spring rested against the rear bevel of the store and stopped working. And it was not always possible to eliminate this defect by filing the wall of the store.
I must say that the level of production of pistols at the plant is not high, quite often whole batches of pistols with some defects come across, there were even pistols with such a roughly worked out outer surface of the barrel that it resembled a thread, when the shutter was retracted, the return spring made a strong creak. There were pistols (and a lot) that could be removed from the safety by pressing the trigger.
5. Broken and out of gauge balls can cause very unpleasant and sometimes difficult to eliminate firing delays. Sometimes two of these balls will jam the magazine in the pistol. I had to meet such a defect on the MP-661K, but there the situation was saved by the barrel screwing out in front. On the MP-654K, you will have to completely disassemble the magazine right in the pistol frame. To do this, you will have to remove the handle, the can and unscrew the shutter. In the passport for "Anix" there is a recommendation to "roll" the balls before loading them along the barrel. It is not bad to follow this and charge the MP-654K.
This is certainly not a complete list of the failures encountered, but in general the pistol meets its purpose - it allows you to train in shooting and handling weapons.
Good day everyone. The next article will be devoted to the modification of the most popular air pistol in the Russian Federation, a copy of the legendary Makarov pistol - MP-654k. So, let's try to find out how to increase the power of the MP-654k pneumatic pistol.
For those who are interested in learning more about the pistol, I recommend reading our article from a seasoned hardball player about this very Makarov pneumatic pistol. Here we will focus only on the main points in order to understand the essence of the matter.
The MP-654k is produced at the same plant as the combat PM. Given this proximity, the undoubted advantage of the pneumatic replica is the use of original spare parts. Other manufacturers cannot boast of such a thing.
The gun, to be honest, is not liked on the market. Small ammunition, low power, low external resemblance to the original force the user to pay attention to foreign models. But is it really that bad, or is it more the influence of marketers?
The body of the pistol is not some kind of alloy, but real steel, in the most hungry year it can be used as an ax or a self-defense strike weapon.Small ammunition (13 balls) will not allow stopping the wave of the zombie apocalypse, but in practice this is not necessary. The external resemblance to the appearance of new models with the original bekelite grip requires almost no modifications, so "plus 100" to the coolness with the PM in the holster is guaranteed. And in terms of power, everything is quite solvable. The tuning Makar is able to surprise the chronograph with figures over 180 m / s, and this can be achieved with the most crooked hands.
As a small summary of the above: the MP-654k is an excellent designer for manual work, with good handling it will go to your grandchildren, and getting dirt and multiple deliberate falls on the asphalt will only give the model a more realistic combat look and a noticeable overall improvement in the operation of structural units. In addition, this is one of the few models whose repairs are almost recommended at home - spare parts for pneumatics in gunsmiths, perhaps, remained only for this model.
The Russian method does not provide for the study of the object before parsing it, therefore this paragraph is here exclusively for the supporters of Western culture. The pistol, in terms of its functionality, is the most common gas cylinder - a full-size magazine with a cylinder and a valve system adapted to the functionality of a combat PM. The main components of the pistol according to the passport:
So that this text does not look completely boring, I propose to play with the virtual combat Makarov. First you need to click on the "Device" button, and then press until all the Fritzes fall (they were gone then) until they get bored. The scheme is at least fascinating, at the most informative, because The 654 does essentially the same thing, only in 4.5mm caliber. Well, the skill of owning a virtual Makarov can certainly save your life on the vast Russian Internet.
Since no additional articles about the Izhevsk PM have been planned yet, let's say a few words here about improving the appearance of the model. The main problems of the versions are a plastic handle, a swivel on the clamping screw, a muzzle not under 9 mm, a bad view in the ejector window, there is no ejector (imitation), external factory inscriptions.
The emergence of the new Makarovs partially resolved this problem. It is clear that the most visible result was given by the original bekelite grip, but there were improvements on another part: a beautiful muzzle (those who wish can polish to shine) and hidden pressure screws (for which improved options have already been invented). All that remains is to screw on the ejector, change the cut-off washer to a full-size one in the ejector window and, if desired, erase the inscriptions, and your pneumatic Makarov can already be safely visually withdrawn for examination.
The external marafet was brought up, now it remains to do the harsh internal tuning, so that Makar can finally break through ... bottles. We will not go into details here, since open spaces of weapon forums and without this article are various practical and not very good advice. In order not to be another advisor, let's leave only paths for thought with small tips on insights. Tuning is an individual and creative path, so such experiments rarely take place without mats and chagrin. And here it would be necessary to write something like "the text is not a guide to action, any irregularities in the operation of your pistol ... and blah blah blah", in short, you get the idea.
The main problems of the MP-654k are many slots and little potential power. The first problem is solved by sealing them, the second by boring and lengthening the barrel.
Let's start with the head. If you look closely at the head of the store, it is usually quite uneven. Irregularities at the junction of the head with the body itself give an uneven fit, and then possible crookedness and inconsistencies. Special attention should be paid to the front of the head, it is necessary to smooth the place of its abutment to the trunk, for further compaction. You should not overdo it here, the stage is more preparatory than the key one.
Now let's get down to the most important thing.The essence of the action - since the volume in the original MP-654k chamber is not so large, there will not be so much gas at the outlet. But craftsmen found that everything here can be expanded from the inside (dremel to help) almost 2 times. The main work is carried out in the chamber and the obturator, you should be extremely careful not to grind off anything unnecessary.
Boring (for understanding, watch the video below)
Then the holes in the valve are drilled, and the needle expands - the new increased potential needs to come out through something.
Now that the PM has the potential of a dope, it is necessary to somehow fill up the cracks through which gas escapes in the stock version.
Let's start with the minor part of the leak - the store. Here, between the head and the magazine, as well as in movable places, everything is treated with a sealant, just in case. Rubber will not save you from bullying, but this topic is closer to basic repair.
The main place for a large portion of gas to leak is between the barrel and the magazine. There, in the basic version, the store adjoins the breech at a bad angle, leaving a decent gap. In the old versions, there was a gasket, the new ones were deprived of it, leaving the gas to think about other possible routes of movement.
The gap between the magazine and the barrel in the MP-654k
The Internet is full of many options for this. Firstly, there are ready-made kits, which we will burn about a little later. Secondly, everything can be made at home, there was the manufacture of this gasket from a plastic can lid, a dowel and a traditional cut from fluoroplastic. To understand the appearance of this gasket, it is better to watch any of the videos below once, everything will fall into place.
After doing all of the above, it is worth working on the barrel. In the basic version, the barrel is short and rifled. We read below why this is not a "gut".
The first step is to look at the cons of the ball rifling (BB). Let's not talk about the suffering of rifling from steel, but you should immediately think about the movement of gas along them. Gas enters the barrel, partly pushing the ball, and partly overtaking it in the grooves. In total, we get an overconsumption of energy for air in the literal sense. The solution is to replace the barrel with a smooth and sub-caliber one, so that everything works efficiently, and our protagonist Gaza had no options at all to retreat.
The next step is barrel lengthening. By the way, lengthening the barrel should not always give a huge plus, tk. to travel along such a length, a corresponding long jet of gas is required. But we will assume that as a result of the previous actions, a potential has been created, which simply needs a long barrel for full development, and it is this step that will maximize our pneumatics. There are two options here - we install a one-piece long barrel, replacing the shorty, or we put a long collapsible barrel screwed into the prepared shorty. In any case, all this is masked by a false silencer. At a minimum, this stage should increase the order of 40 m / s and more to the initial speed of the pistol shot.
Another extremely necessary phenomenon after the installation of the barrel is the refinement of the alignment. If you remove the head of the store and put it in its position to the barrel, then in the light you can see the mismatch of the lines. Such even a small mismatch makes the bullet first hit the side of the bore, and only then move along its correct trajectory. We understand that here we are also losing power. So the installation of the head should be perfect, and the bolt will help you (again, watch the video).
With tempo shooting, gas hypothermia and loss of output power occur. This problem was solved in Drozda with a large storage chamber. A similar solution is offered for the 654th. True, in this case one has to sacrifice a change in the "caliber" of the cylinder - from 12 grams to 7 grams. But in extreme cases, art requires sacrifice.
Store with a storage chamber (7 g bottle)
It is also possible to replace the mainspring with a more rigid one.But the work on the previous stages should reduce the result of this action to a minimum, so it can be omitted.
The work on tuning pneumatic weapons has long created a separate niche on the market, so in the vastness of the network now you can easily find masters with a big name and order ready-made modified parts from them. It remains only in a calm home environment to "play" the adult designer and enjoy the result of amplification shown on the chronograph. I propose to watch two videos on this topic, in the second, the modification kit added as many as 50 capes to the initial level, and this is far from the limit.
VIDEO VIDEO
MP-654k is an interesting pistol with a wide range of pumping options. Of course, in a hardball environment, because of his 13 balls, he will remain as an exclusively secondary weapon of last chance, but it can be one of the most successful pistols on the battlefield. Your opinion can be expressed below.
Whatever margin of safety the designers put into the mechanism they created, breakdowns of individual samples are inevitable. To a large extent, this applies to pneumatic weapons. Shooting pneumatics are much less reliable than the mechanics of a combat model - a circuit saturated with valves and O-rings is prone to various kinds of failures.
Consider ways to self-eliminate malfunctions in popular mass-sized pneumatic copies of Makarov and Tokarev pistols (PM and TT)
The structure of diagnostics of a non-working sample is standard - first you need to determine the problem, and only after that proceed to its elimination. The method "disassemble the pistol completely, and then it will be seen" is not suitable. The stages of fault detection for various reasons are as follows:
poison gas from a cylinder - check the place where the gas from the store has been vented by immersing it in a container of water (preferably with alcohol, so that it evaporates faster). The leak will then be easily visible visually. The repair will consist in replacing the rubber seals at the place where the cylinder and the air chamber are sealed;low bullet velocity - see if the barrel gasket is damaged. The problem is often solved by replacing it;sticking balls when shooting at each other or flying out of the barrel in pairs - the problem may lie in a deformed barrel gasket or a store spring that is too powerful;trigger does not work - shake the pistol in a quiet room. If an extraneous sound is heard from the inside, similar to the knock of metal fragments, it means that the parts are broken and they need to be replaced (including the spring);the balloon is enough for a small number of shots - listen if the cylinder hiss (whether the gas is released). Put a drop of alcohol on the places of the rubber seals in the pistol - if gas escaping is observed, it is necessary to replace the gaskets;visual damage - finding chips, cracks and shifts of sighting devices.Umarex Air Gun Cleaning Kit
When disassembling the pistol, you must follow the manufacturer's instructions specified in the passport for the weapon. Cleaning and lubrication is carried out in several stages:
wiping the barrel with a piece of oil rag on the cleaning rod until extraneous deposits are completely removed (especially lead when using lead shot - 4.5 mm or "00"). Finally, the remaining grease is wiped dry with a cloth;trigger lubrication (USM) ... In practice, it is convenient to do this by adding a drop of oil on top of the moving parts, after which it is advisable to fire several blank shots. Do not disassemble the trigger completely unnecessarily;removal of excess traces of oil from the pistol surface without wiping dry. This will allow the oil to form a thin film that protects the metal surface from corrosion.Now we will consider specific tips for correcting breakdowns and defects of popular air pistols - large-sized clones of famous firearms models.
Targets for shooting and training from pneumatic weapons in A4 format can be viewed here. Choose between concentric circles and silhouettes.
This sample is a domestic pneumatic version of the Makarov pistol. Its design resembles the original combat model, but it is radically different in the elements of the gas cylinder system used.
The MP 654K model has non-adjustable sights - they structurally belong to a part of the bolt carrier.
The main problem of the pistol is the fracture of individual parts when the ball enters the body. Despite the apparent strength, the load on the trigger metal when the spring is unclamped is very significant. Correction of the malfunction is achieved by complete disassembly and replacement of parts with new ones.
To change the stiffness of the spring, it can be stretched. (this will help for a short while, at most - before buying a new one), but it is better to replace it.
A strong spring can be shortened, only this should be done gradually so as not to remove unnecessary turns.
You should pay attention to two aspects - replacement of the spring and the valve itself. It is necessary to buy a new spring when it corrodes (very rarely), while a worn-out valve is often replaced with a new one from the spare parts kit.
A broken spring forces the pistol to be disassembled almost to the end. In this case, it is necessary not only to follow the instructions, but also to get acquainted with the process visually.
One example of a short instructional video for assembling the MP 654K:
VIDEO
Another popular pneumatic "clone" of the Makarov pistol was produced by a Chinese manufacturer. Despite the ease of use and good accuracy, the model is less reliable and more difficult to maintain. than the Izhevsk system.
As in the original, you can only spoil the sighting devices on a pistol with a huge amount of bad luck. Repair still consists of welding (or soldering) and file finishing.
Another difference between the Chinese version of the "pneumatic PM" is the presence of a large number of parts and mounting screws. To replace the trigger elements or even remove the ball that has rolled into it, you will have to do a tedious disassembly procedure for beginners.
A clear guide to disassembling and assembling PM 49 is here:
VIDEO
The main problem is usually not an overly strong or weak spring, but not the tightness of the seals. After finding the leak, you can start replacing the gaskets (they can be difficult to find on sale, you have to cut it yourself). To reduce the load on the seals and prevent their premature failure, it is recommended to wipe the bottle neck before use with a cloth soaked in silicone oil.
Unlike MP 654K, model PM 49 does not have high strength of knots and gaskets fixed in grooves.
Since the replacement of a part requires a complete disassembly, perform it on a light-colored canvas (a piece of sheet or towel). It is advisable to use a separate blanket for such purposes - this way you can avoid accidental loss of screws or small parts.
A video review of the Ataman air rifle can be viewed here. Reviews of all rifle modifications and their characteristics.
A rather interesting and complex structural development is the pneumatic version of the TT pistol. Its scheme ensures the reliable operation of the gas system, which, if necessary, will be quite problematic to repair.
Sights TT - rear sight and front sight
The rear sight and front sight of the pneumatic "analogue" of the Tula Tokarev are unregulated and are repaired in the same way as in the Makarov pistol.The maximum that you can do yourself is to correct the slot in the pillar with a file by moving the midpoint of the hit. This operation is not recommended for beginners, at least after a couple of thousand shots, when the shooter will know all the subtleties of his weapon.
A distinctive feature of the pistol is the small number of moving parts and the absence of a powerful mainspring, so the breakdown of the firing mechanism is extremely unlikely.
You can get acquainted with the operation of the trigger on the video:
VIDEO
The original scheme, according to which the store is arranged separately from the gas supply system, reduces the adjustment and repair of the store to the replacement of the supply spring. The tightness of the balloon puncture unit is usually not satisfactory, and therefore requires only a periodic visual inspection.
The differences between the pneumatic TT and the PM model, which are loved by many, lie in the widespread use of pins and screws. To get to any part of the pistol, it is necessary to disassemble the bolt group or the handle .
Video (click to play).
Since there is no powerful mainspring on the pistol, the repair consists in replacing one of two simple springs (see the video about the operation of the trigger). Complete disassembly of the pneumatic CT is too difficult for novice users. If you suspect a serious breakdown, the best way out is to contact a repair center.
