Repair of pneumatic guns, rifles, pistols can be carried out independently. This will require care and accuracy when disassembling the device and manipulating parts, replacing them. During repair work, it is possible not only to restore weapons that are in disrepair, but also to improve the quality of their work, in comparison with the original state.
You can independently perform a radical upgrade of weapons by making a new drive:
These rules will also come in handy when upgrading PCP and Glacier pneumatics, more about it later.
If you bought yourself a pneumatics, you should definitely purchase a high pressure pneumatics pump.
Read about the types and names of pistols here.
For information on how to shoot a sniper rifle correctly, see: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2522/obuchenie/snajperskaya.html
If any of the elements are installed incorrectly or do not fit well together, severe air leakage occurs, which degrades the performance of the entire system. The main problem leading to depressurization is the work of the rammer.
It has special rubber rings that fit snugly against the surrounding external and internal parts. If they are not installed, you should cut them out yourself and install them into the system. They are invariably present in modern weapons.
Review material about the air pistol Drozd, read here.
If the owner is not satisfied with the power of the weapon that the manufacturer has given it, drastic changes will be required regarding the boring of the heel counter.
In this case, more space is left for the spring by cutting a layer of metal from the inside of the backdrop. Usually the maximum thickness of the cut layer does not exceed 1.5 cm, sometimes a little more.
See also the material on how to handle Diana air rifles here.
If the MO becomes too large, for example, as a result of flattening of elements from high pressure, it will be necessary to replace the ring.
During the systematic pumping of the lever, an extra hole appears in it. It must be removed by inserting a specially made bushing.
Parts are made from steel. If the manufactured element is larger than the hole, then it is mechanically increased to an even larger size.
This part is attached to the base by welding or soldered. The resulting bearing will have a sliding function, while the lever has a reinforced and reliable support.
It is made of steel. Outside and inside diameters are matched to the surrounding objects. To ensure the highest functionality, a small cut is made using a standard file. Holes are made in the thickness of the ring wall.
They are kept small and symmetrical. They serve to guarantee accurate fixation of the ring and prevent any movement. Studs are driven into the holes, reliably protecting the structure from any displacement.
VIDEO
Small faults can be rectified by yourself. This is done quickly if you adhere to the following recommendations:
When the seal begins to leak air, it is easiest to simply replace it. When this is not possible, you should not postpone the repair of the weapon. It is enough to put a lining of cardboard or foil under it. To install this element, you need to pull out the seal for a while.
To check if the piston ring needs to be replaced, it is necessary to withdraw the piston itself until a clear visibility of this rubber element is revealed. You need to drop a little spindle oil on the ring. After that, the piston closes and returns to its original position. If oil bubbles appear on the surface at the same time, then the rubber ring needs to be replaced.When a spring-piston air gun is disassembled, it is necessary to lubricate the piston and rubber ring with hyposulfite-molybdenum grease. This will increase the durability of the elements.
When a situation arises when pulling the trigger does not cause a shot, you need to check the quality of the installation of the screw, which serves for the correct functioning of the structure. You should also check the protrusion of the fuse.If it is bent or leans forward strongly, then it needs to be repaired or replaced.To obtain a positive result from the repair of pneumatic weapons it is necessary to carry out all actions carefully, to know the device of an air rifle.
Before upgrading or replacing any elements, you must first measure their optimal parameters and fasten the devices efficiently.
After upgrading or repairing a weapon, it is necessary to carry out constant care for it, then you don't have to worry about problems for a long time. Also check out our article on how to make a bullet trap for the weapons room. Particularly noteworthy is the material on violations of safety requirements when handling weapons.
Good or bad, one way or another, but our people love to shoot, want to shoot, and accordingly, shoot.
The easiest way to do this is from a gas-cylinder pneumatic pistol, which any adult citizen of the country can buy absolutely freely.
After the inevitable, but usually short period of euphoria, for those buyers who do not shove a pistol in the back drawer - that is, for the users themselves - the issues of maintaining and maintaining the performance of the pistol come to the fore.
What the author tries to convey to the public below does not in any way claim to be special novelty or exclusivity and is the result of an analysis of the most simple and common cases of buyers contacting the seller with claims for cancellations. The ability to eliminate minor faults right on the spot greatly saves both sellers and buyers money and nerves.
I will not consider the problems of “strengthening” and increasing speed, since I believe that the main purpose of a gas pistol is training and practice in shooting, and not hunting, not breaking bottles, and even less self-defense, at least from crows and dogs. For defense against dogs, it is better to have something different, more effective. For example, an ordinary slingshot and a gas canister. It is safer to hit the bottles with a hammer and a brick, and it is more pleasant to shoot at them from some thread of "Makarych". In a gas-cylinder pistol, the speed of the bullet (ball) is specially designed to be small, in the technical conditions it is stipulated not less than 70 and not more than 135 m / s. So if, when shooting from 10 meters, the euro bottle remains intact in the event of a bullet hitting it, then the pistol is not considered defective. This was done in order to simplify the process of buying and selling a pistol, and therefore increasing its availability to the population.
Raising the topic of gas cylinder weapons, I want to say a few words about a specific gas cylinder "gunpowder" or "fuel" - it is carbon dioxide. It is sold “bottled”, i.e. hermetically sealed in small steel cans. The older generation probably remembers similar things for siphons of carbonating water. Typically, cans are short 7-8 grams (these are less and less common) and long 12 grams. Since they differ both in the total length and in the length and diameter of the “neck”, as well as in the method and depth of the “plug”, the needle of the pistol that pierces the “plug” must accordingly differ. To be able to use both types of cans in a set for pistols, for example, some MP-654K, there is a special adapter that fits on the neck of a short can. This adapter is not included in other gun kits.
For ordinary users of gas-cylinder weapons it is quite enough to know that IT DOESN'T SHOOT ON THE STREET IN WINTER. And this is not a defect, SO IT SHOULD BE!
For the advanced - let's take a closer look at the process of firing a shot. The can has walls about 1.5 mm thick; carbon dioxide inside it is initially in a solid form.(It would be more correct to say that the state of carbon dioxide depends on the temperature, the speed of the firing process and the pressure inside the cylinder, and therefore can be either solid, liquid, gaseous, or a mixture of these states.)
As soon as the pressure in the cylinder falls below a certain point (determined by the laws of heat engineering), carbon dioxide quickly melts and evaporates, thereby creating the same excess (in relation to atmospheric) pressure, pushing the bullet along the barrel. Therefore, when the trigger is hit on the firing pin, the valve opens, the pressure in the cylinder drops, and a violent release of gas begins, as a result of which the bullet flies out of the barrel. (In firearms, a similar pressure is created by the combustion of gunpowder or another substance.) However, unlike gunpowder, carbon dioxide is very sensitive to temperature, according to the same laws of heat engineering, at temperatures close to zero Celsius and atmospheric pressure, it greatly loses the rate of evaporation.
According to the same laws of heat engineering, when the gas evaporates, a strong absorption of heat occurs. In our case, the can begins to cool down quickly and evaporation decreases. If you pierce a full can outside the pistol (or when the valve is not closed), the gas begins to escape, the can cools down, becomes covered with frost, flakes and lumps of white carbon dioxide begin to fly out of it, which quickly melt and evaporate in the heat, and the can itself becomes covered with frost even in summer. Roughly the same thing happens in a serviceable pistol when firing quickly, even at room temperature, although to a lesser extent. The can cools down, the speed of the bullet drops. Solid non-evaporated particles of carbon dioxide enter the valve, jam its moving parts, and the valve begins to let gas through. If the shooting is stopped, after a while the evaporation stops, the parts heat up to ambient temperature and the valve is again ready to fire, if, of course, carbon dioxide still remains in the can.
Now you can return to the issue of performance and consider the problems that arise.
DEFECTS and REPAIR of pistols MP-654K:
1. “The valve does not hold gas” is a fairly common defect. Usually the valve seat gasket is to blame for this, it often breaks through with debris or metal shavings, and the valve rests against this shavings, not against the gasket, there is a gap between the valve and the gasket, through which the gas goes forward through the hole for loading the balls. To filter the gas in the shutter there is a special mesh, which, unfortunately, cannot hold all the debris, therefore the service life of the valve seat gasket is completely unpredictable. It happens that the saddle gasket can last for many months, sometimes it starts to poison the gas from the middle of the first spray can.
Another possible reason for the same defect: the gasket is seated and the valve sits with the angle of the rod on the metal of the seat before the gasket is reached - to eliminate this, it is necessary to chamfer the seat. This also happens due to non-grinding of the angle of the valve stem.
Checking the tightness in the case of the MP-654K is very simple: the store with the just inserted cartridge is lowered into a glass or jar of water and kept for half a minute. Often, when firing, particles of debris or non-evaporated carbon dioxide fall between the valve and the gasket and the pistol begins to hiss. Sometimes, after two or three shots, the valve is purged and the tightness is restored.
So, the store with the cylinder in water, the bubbles of the escaping gas are visible. The method of repair depends on where the gas comes from. It makes no sense to change all the gaskets at once, it is cheaper and more convenient to do this as needed.
The easiest and fastest way is to replace the obturator gasket - the need for this becomes obvious if the bubbles come out of the junction of the cartridge and the store. The main reasons for the rapid failure of the seal gasket are: long-term storage of the pistol with an inserted cartridge and constant attempts to tighten the clamping screw of the cartridge even tighter.The replacement is simple - with an awl we pick out the old crushed gasket, with a mild screwdriver, carefully, starting from the edge, push the new gasket into the obturator. The gasket is taken in a round transparent, although the black ring is square in cross-section. Both are included in the spare parts kit, and sometimes they are sold separately. We press it to the place with a used punctured canister, lubricate it with lithol for better tightness, literally at the tip of the awl. When installing a new full cartridge, do not tighten the clamping screw to the maximum, if there is no gas bubbles in the water, then it is better to even loosen the screw a little (by a quarter of a turn).
In approximately the same way, the gaskets are replaced on the outside of the valve seat (a thin black ring on the outside of the seat) and at the junction of the obturator and the valve body (the head of the store). There the ring is also black, but thick. To do this, you need to make a special screwdriver, the easiest way is to take a screwdriver with replaceable tips. If there are problems with the presence of these new rings, you can simply fill the old rings with a white auto-sealant-gasket; this option is quite suitable for fixed joints. You just need to give the sealant time to polymerize. If the rings are replaced with new ones, it is good to lubricate them with lithol again.
The most expensive, laborious and, alas, a frequent case is when the gas comes out from the front, through the hole for feeding the balls. This is a sure sign of a defective valve seat gasket. It's a shame, but commercially available replaceable saddles obviously do not pass pressure control, so not everyone "holds" the gas. Selection and verification is required, which makes such repairs long and costly, and the degree of cost is unpredictable. In principle, the seat sleeve can be knocked out, and the gasket can be simply replaced with a new one, but these gaskets are very rare on the free market. The shape and size of the seat gasket corresponds to the front gasket of the valve (a translucent ring, available in the spare parts), which seals the internal cavity of the valve in front, but they differ in the material from which they are made. To fill the saddle instead of an unusable gasket, Academician Rabinovich recommends using an ether sealant, D. Belyakov - epoxy-rubber glue. It should also be noted that on the pistols of the first releases, the valve seat was of a different design, one-piece, the seat butt was placed separately and had an inner conical surface. Such a gasket is in the MP-651K valve. It is much easier and cheaper to change it, but for some reason it has to be done more often than a modern complex-assembled saddle.
2. Another common defect is the trigger failure, the so-called “descent failure”. Initially, I believed that the reason for this was the incorrect installation of the mainspring, or the deformation of the spring due to improper heat treatment. The thin feather of the spring should be pressed against the copier cam of the cocking lever towards its axis.
Later I came to the conclusion, and at the factory it is believed that the thin feather of the spring is bent due to a ball falling under it, which can get under the feather if there is no gas pressure in the can anymore, but there are balls in the store and the shooter still clicks on descent. This is usually easily identified by traces of copper from the balls on the feather of the black mainspring. Often, when disassembling such a pistol, a ball falls out of it, and the pistol even starts to work. By the way, there have never been such defects at the plant either with the PM or with the Izh-79, which have the same mainspring. Damage can be easily repaired by straightening the spring feather with pliers.
3. The pistol allows you to cock the hammer by pulling the bolt back, which simulates the reloading of a combat pistol. However, if you pull the trigger at the same time, the hammer will "fall" under the bolt and the pistol will be jammed. This is characteristic of the MP-654K, in which a part of the internal ridge of the shutter is cut out to accommodate the valve body. It seems quite tricky to deal with such a delay without the habit.Nevertheless, “sinking the trigger under the bolt” should not serve as a reason for sending the pistol to the factory, since it can be easily eliminated on its own: you need to remove the magazine, grip the ramrod from the pneumatic weapon, pull the bolt back and, pressing the trigger through the barrel bore, cock it before being put on a combat platoon. After that, the shutter and trigger start to work normally.
Sometimes you come across pistols in which the bolt does not retrace, but is jammed by the trigger. Most likely, the reason is too small a cocking angle of the trigger, which may be in violation of the drawing dimensions of the sear and trigger. To eliminate the defect, it is necessary to cut off the top of the trigger and the bevel of the bolt ridge, so that the bevel seems to cocked the trigger when the bolt moves forward.
4. Some time ago, there was a batch of pistols in which the trigger was not put on a combat platoon by hand. The reason was simple: for some reason, the sear spring became a couple of millimeters larger in diameter. On the PM, this is most likely imperceptible, but on the MR-654K, this spring rested against the rear bevel of the store and stopped working. And it was not always possible to eliminate this defect by filing the wall of the store.
I must say that the level of production of pistols at the plant is not high, quite often whole batches of pistols with some defects come across, there were even pistols with such a roughly worked out outer surface of the barrel that it resembled a thread, when the shutter was retracted, the return spring made a strong creak. There were pistols (and a lot) that could be removed from the safety by pressing the trigger.
5. Broken and out of gauge balls can cause very unpleasant and sometimes difficult to eliminate firing delays. Sometimes two of these balls will jam the magazine in the pistol. I had to meet such a defect on the MP-661K, but there the situation was saved by the barrel screwing out in front. On the MP-654K, you will have to completely disassemble the magazine right in the pistol frame. To do this, you will have to remove the handle, the can and unscrew the shutter. In the passport for "Anix" there is a recommendation to "roll" the balls before loading them along the barrel. It is not bad to follow this and charge the MP-654K.
This is certainly not a complete list of the failures encountered, but in general the pistol meets its purpose - it allows you to train in shooting and handling weapons.
Whatever margin of safety the designers put into the mechanism they created, breakdowns of individual samples are inevitable. To a large extent, this applies to pneumatic weapons. Shooting pneumatics are much less reliable than the mechanics of a combat model - a circuit saturated with valves and O-rings is prone to various kinds of failures.
Consider ways to self-eliminate malfunctions in popular mass-sized pneumatic copies of Makarov and Tokarev pistols (PM and TT)
The structure of diagnostics of a non-working sample is standard - first you need to determine the problem, and only after that proceed to its elimination. The method "disassemble the pistol completely, and then it will be seen" is not suitable. The stages of fault detection for various reasons are as follows:
poison gas from a cylinder - check the place where the gas from the store has been vented by immersing it in a container of water (preferably with alcohol, so that it evaporates faster). The leak will then be easily visible visually. The repair will consist in replacing the rubber seals at the place where the cylinder and the air chamber are sealed;low bullet velocity - see if the barrel gasket is damaged. The problem is often solved by replacing it;sticking balls when shooting at each other or flying out of the barrel in pairs - the problem may lie in a deformed barrel gasket or a store spring that is too powerful;trigger does not work - shake the pistol in a quiet room. If an extraneous sound is heard from the inside, similar to the knock of metal fragments, it means that the parts are broken and they need to be replaced (including the spring);the balloon is enough for a small number of shots - listen if the cylinder hiss (whether the gas is released). Put a drop of alcohol on the places of the rubber seals in the pistol - if gas escaping is observed, it is necessary to replace the gaskets;visual damage - finding chips, cracks and shifts of sighting devices.Umarex Air Gun Cleaning Kit
When disassembling the pistol, you must follow the manufacturer's instructions specified in the passport for the weapon. Cleaning and lubrication is carried out in several stages:
wiping the barrel with a piece of oil rag on the cleaning rod until extraneous deposits are completely removed (especially lead when using lead shot - 4.5 mm or "00"). Finally, the remaining grease is wiped dry with a cloth;trigger lubrication (USM) ... In practice, it is convenient to do this by adding a drop of oil on top of the moving parts, after which it is advisable to fire several blank shots. Do not disassemble the trigger completely unnecessarily;removal of excess traces of oil from the pistol surface without wiping dry. This will allow the oil to form a thin film that protects the metal surface from corrosion.Now we will consider specific tips for correcting breakdowns and defects of popular air pistols - weight and size clones of famous firearms models.
Targets for shooting and training from pneumatic weapons in A4 format can be viewed here. Choose between concentric circles and silhouettes.
This sample is a domestic pneumatic version of the Makarov pistol. Its design resembles the original combat model, but it is radically different in the elements of the gas cylinder system used.
The MP 654K model has non-adjustable sights - they structurally belong to a part of the bolt carrier.
The main problem of the pistol is the fracture of individual parts when the ball enters the body. Despite the apparent strength, the load on the trigger metal when the spring is unclamped is very significant. Correction of the malfunction is achieved by complete disassembly and replacement of parts with new ones.
To change the stiffness of the spring, it can be stretched. (this will help for a short while, at most - before buying a new one), but it is better to replace it.
A strong spring can be shortened, only this should be done gradually so as not to remove unnecessary turns.
You should pay attention to two aspects - replacement of the spring and the valve itself. It is necessary to buy a new spring when it corrodes (very rarely), while a worn-out valve is often replaced with a new one from the spare parts kit.
A broken spring forces the pistol to be disassembled almost to the end. In this case, it is necessary not only to follow the instructions, but also to get acquainted with the process visually.
One example of a short instructional video for assembling the MP 654K:
VIDEO
Another popular pneumatic "clone" of the Makarov pistol was produced by a Chinese manufacturer. Despite the ease of use and good accuracy, the model is less reliable and more difficult to maintain. than the Izhevsk system.
As in the original, you can only spoil the sighting devices on a pistol with a huge amount of bad luck. Repair still consists of welding (or soldering) and file finishing.
Another difference between the Chinese version of the "pneumatic PM" is the presence of a large number of parts and mounting screws. To replace the trigger elements or even remove the ball that has rolled into it, you will have to do a tedious disassembly procedure for beginners.
A clear guide to disassembling and assembling PM 49 is here:
VIDEO
The main problem is usually not an overly strong or weak spring, but not the tightness of the seals. After finding the leak, you can start replacing the gaskets (they can be difficult to find on sale, you have to cut it yourself).To reduce the load on the seals and prevent their premature failure, it is recommended to wipe the bottle neck before use with a cloth soaked in silicone oil.
Unlike MP 654K, model PM 49 does not have high strength of knots and gaskets fixed in grooves.
Since the replacement of a part requires a complete disassembly, perform it on a light-colored canvas (a piece of sheet or towel). It is advisable to use a separate blanket for such purposes - this way you can avoid accidental loss of screws or small parts.
A video review of the Ataman air rifle can be viewed here. Reviews of all rifle modifications and their characteristics.
A rather interesting and complex structural development is the pneumatic version of the TT pistol. Its scheme ensures the reliable operation of the gas system, which, if necessary, will be quite problematic to repair.
Sights TT - rear sight and front sight
The rear sight and front sight of the pneumatic "analogue" of the Tula Tokarev are unregulated and are repaired in the same way as in the Makarov pistol. The maximum that you can do yourself is to correct the slot in the pillar with a file by moving the midpoint of the hit. This operation is not recommended for beginners, at least after a couple of thousand shots, when the shooter will know all the subtleties of his weapon.
A distinctive feature of the pistol is the small number of moving parts and the absence of a powerful mainspring, so the breakdown of the firing mechanism is extremely unlikely.
You can get acquainted with the operation of the trigger on the video:
VIDEO
The original scheme, according to which the store is arranged separately from the gas supply system, reduces the adjustment and repair of the store to replacing the supply spring. The tightness of the balloon puncture unit is usually not satisfactory, and therefore requires only a periodic visual inspection.
The differences between the pneumatic TT and the PM model, which are loved by many, lie in the widespread use of pins and screws. To get to any part of the pistol, it is necessary to disassemble the bolt group or the handle .
Since there is no powerful mainspring on the pistol, the repair consists in replacing one of two simple springs (see the video about the operation of the trigger). Complete disassembly of the pneumatic CT is too difficult for novice users. If you suspect a serious breakdown, the best way out is to contact a repair center.
VIDEO
Disassembly, assembly, repair of a pneumatic pistol Stalker Stalker do it yourself.
This video shows a complete disassembly of the borner pm49 air pistol.
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- Stock for PCP air rifle based on Crossman in bullpup shape, made of plywood with full preservation of the Crossman mechanism. - Part 1. - The second part of the video -
The man is charged with possession of a military firearm while he had a flare gun. Article 222 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation. Illegal acquisition, transfer, sale, storage, transportation or carrying of weapons, their main parts and ammunition.
The main malfunction of pneumatic pistols in Minsk, Belarus, according to statistics, is a gas leak. Lead to breakage:
1. Failure to comply with the operating conditions of pneumatic guns. Owners of pistols leave cylinders in products for more than 3-4 hours, incorrectly release gas at the end of firing, etc.
2. Natural wear of the silicone gaskets in the gun magazine.
You can repair the mr 654k yourself, if you have a repair kit for the product, a factory key, a screwdriver, an awl. When studying the detailed instructions, the repair will not take much time, but if you doubt your own abilities, it is better to contact the specialists.
Makarov 654K pistol repair kit includes 7 silicone rings:
3.Valve seat flange seal ring (thinnest black gasket).
4. Sealing element of the store.
5. Valve seat ring (smallest, white gasket in the repair kit).
6.Overballoon gasket (second white gasket in the kit).
More details about the location of silicone parts will be written below and in the following articles.
Replacing the over-cylinder gasket is the simplest procedure for eliminating a gas leak in a Russian-made Makarov 654K pneumatic pistol. However, it does not always solve the malfunction, despite the apparent simplicity and visibility of a breakdown. As a rule, after replacing the silicone element, you will need to install other parts of the repair kit.
Take a small, thin screwdriver, awl. Remove the magazine from the pistol, turn it so that you can see the needle that pierces the cylinder when loading the pistol and a white gasket that is installed around the needle. Hook the gasket with an awl and carefully, so as not to damage the needle, pull it out of the neck of the gun seal.
After removing the old gasket, it remains to put a new, large white gasket on the pistol repair kit. Gently press it against the neck of the obturator with your finger, but not with your fingernail, so as not to damage the tightness of the part. We take a small screwdriver with a blunt end, seal the gasket with it so that it fits into the right place.
An obturator is a metal part of an air pistol that prevents a large volume of gas from passing through at the beginning of a shot from an air pistol. In the Makarov 654K gas cylinder pneumatic pistol, 2 silicone gaskets are installed on the obturator:
1.Overballoon, large white gasket of the repair kit, the replacement of which was mentioned above.
2.Black O-ring on the back of the needle obturator (replacement will require disassembly of the magazine).
Message YurBor "22 Mar 2010, 14:43
A lot of questions from newcomers, and not only, arise about gas leaks in the stores of popular gas pistols MP-654, 656, 661 "Drozd". Since the design of the valve system is the same for all of the listed pistols, the “sores” are the same. Using the example of the MP-654 store, I will try to show all the problem areas and troubleshooting methods. In this topic, I will not touch on the modernization of the store, only repairs.
Here, arrows show the main locations of gas leaks. To identify leaks (unless, of course, the gas does not come out clearly), you can immerse the store with a punctured cylinder in a container with water, preferably with alcohol (vodka) - after repair it will be possible at the same time to mark this case
Photo borrowed from TarleX ‘Ah (although he also borrowed from someone)
So, let's consider the possible options for loss of tightness of the storage chamber:
1 - gas whistling comes out of the outlet of the magazine head. In most cases, the valve O-ring is to blame.
Unscrew the threaded bushing of the valve seat and take out the contents of the valve head:
To replace the gaskets and rubber rings, we need a repair kit that comes with the pistol and which is commercially available.
We will clean the valve from rust in any way possible
We will replace the stiffened valve gasket with a new one from the repair kit and proceed to assembling the valve head. Here you need to pay attention to the correctness (the flat side of the polyurethane valve gasket must face the metal washer) and the sequence of installation of parts in the valve chamber
If, after replacing the valve gasket, gas again leaks from the outlet of the magazine head (where the balls fly out into the barrel), then the valve seat is most likely to blame: there are inclusions of metal particles on the working surface of the seat that are formed when the cans are opened or the wear of the seat has become critical (in this case, the valve seat must be replaced). To restore the valve seat surface, you can try using the advice VAT57 : hold the valve seat for 2 hours in heated to 150 degrees. With gun oil "Berkut" (you can use any mineral oil).
Using a magnifying glass, carefully inspect the saddle and remove metal inclusions with a needle. If the seat wear is large enough (a groove is clearly visible on its surface - a trace from the valve skirt), it must be molded onto the valve.To do this, the valve must be heated to a temperature of 120-150 degrees C, insert its stem into the hole in the threaded bushing of the valve seat and press the valve against the seat until it cools.
If this does not help, then, before throwing out the valve seat and replacing it with a new one, you can try, spreading the “zero” on a flat surface, remove the layer of the dead seat. The main thing here is not to fill up the surface.
Now that all work on replacing gaskets and rings, polishing the valve is completed, you can assemble the valve device.
I will also add that it is recommended to flush the head before assembling the valve device. I use acetone for this purpose. After drying, we assemble the valve device.
There is also such a situation: we insert the balloon, make its puncture - the "flight" is normal - nothing poisons, silence. We make a shot and all the gas in a couple of seconds comes out after the ball. The bottle is empty and cold as a dead man. What happened? The valve gasket was changed or, if it is old, it is still quite functional. Most likely, in this case, the valve will wedge, i.e. after the shot, he did not return to his place. We disassemble the valve head, take out the valve and carefully examine it for dents, scoring, stem curvature. This is what I had
I will briefly describe: the valve hit the ball feeder and turned out to be hardened, which once prevented the valve from returning to its place and all the gas after the first shot went through the barrel. Not figuring out what the matter was, he released the contents of two more cans into the atmosphere.
What are the ways to solve the problem? With the file (s) we remove the work hardening and make chamfers - internal (you can manually drill 5-6 mm) and external, so that it turns out like this
But a recent case (although this is already a modernized store, but it can also happen on the stock one): a mainspring from TT and a native valve spring was installed on the MP-656, the stem is shortened and, nevertheless, the valve is stuck in the saddle
At home I disassembled the valve head and saw this picture
Treatment: we straighten the stem, polish it and check that it moves freely and without interference in the bore of the threaded bushing of the valve seat, shorten the valve spring (though this is to some extent an upgrade).
The following case is also possible: after replacing a worn valve seat with a new one, at the first shot, all the gas merrily, with noise and snow flakes, flies away to aggravate the "greenhouse effect". What's the matter? But the fact is that the valve stem wedges in the bore of the threaded bushing of the valve seat and the valve, as in the previous case, does not return to its place. Therefore, before installing a new seat, be sure to check how the valve stem moves along its entire length in the bore of the threaded bushing of the valve seat. If a wedge is found, it is necessary to widen the valve seat bore into which the valve stem is installed. It is better to do this not by reaming this hole, but using a punch of a suitable diameter, you can use a broken drill of a suitable diameter. With light blows of a hammer on the drift, with constant fitting, we achieve a free stroke of the valve stem along the entire length. The valve seat can now be installed in the magazine.
We now proceed to eliminate gas leaks between the valve head and the frame of the store. To do this, unscrew the shutter. The use of such tools will facilitate, and significantly, this operation.
See screwdriver making here: //my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1335/node/3126
We change the rubber ring of the obturator and screw it back. If the thread in the head is loosened, then the FUM tape can be screwed onto the thread of the obturator for better sealing of the threaded connection.Some pistol owners (part-time car enthusiasts) use car sealant for this purpose and then do not know the worries. Everyone chooses for himself what is best for whom and what is at hand.
Many people ask the question: is it necessary to install a filter? If you do not intend to upgrade the store with boring of its insides, then it is better to leave the filter, because it still retains the particles of the pierced membrane of the cylinder, and this is at least some kind of guarantee for the durability of the valve seat, especially when using 8 grams. spray cans.
Finally, there is the valve seat threaded bushing. It is possible to eliminate the undercutting in this unit by replacing the rubber ring and, as in the case of the obturator, to plant the thread on the FUM tape or auto-sealant.
The final photo will give an idea of the gaskets and rubber rings installed in the MP-654 store.
I will insert a couple more photos borrowed from gosha-kun 'a.
Here is a good illustration of how to install parts in the valve head.
And this photo shows the gaskets installed on the obturator
Replacing the over-balloon gasket, I think, will not cause any difficulties for anyone. With an awl we pick out the old gasket and in its place, with the help of a match, so as not to damage it, we install a new one.
Video (click to play).
Now that's probably all. However, new additions are possible.
